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Table of Contents
have specific meanings in this manual.
A WARNING emphasizes areas where injury or
even death could result from negligence. Mechani-
cal damage may also occur. WARNINGS should be
taken seriously.
A CAUTION emphasizes areas where equipment
damage could result. Disregarding a CAUTION
could cause permanent mechanical damage, though
injury is unlikely.
A NOTE provides additional information to
make a step or procedure easier or clearer. Disre-
garding a NOTE could cause inconvenience but
would not cause equipment damage or personal
Professional mechanics can work for years and
never sustain a serious injury or mishap. Follow
these guidelines and practice common sense to
safely service the motorcycle.
1. Do not operate the vehicle in an enclosed area.
The exhaust gasses contain carbon monoxide, a poi-
sonous gas that is odorless, colorless, and tasteless.
Carbon monoxide levels build quickly in a small
enclosed area, and it can cause unconsciousness and
death in a short time. Make sure the work area is
properly ventilated or operate the vehicle outside.
2. Never use gasoline or any extremely flammable
liquid to clean parts. Refer to Cleaning Parts and
Handling Gasoline Safely in this section.
3. Never smoke or use a torch in the vicinity of
flammable liquids, such as gasoline or cleaning sol-
4. When welding or brazing on the motorcycle, re-
move the fuel tank, carburetor and shocks to a safe
distance at least 50 ft. (15 m) away.
5. Use the correct type and size tool to avoid dam-
aging fasteners.
6. Keep tools clean and in good condition. Replace
or repair worn or damaged equipment.
7. When loosening a tight fastener, be guided by
what would happen if the tool slips.
8. When replacing fasteners, make sure the new
Fasteners are of the same size and strength as the
original ones.
9. Keep the work area clean and organized.
10. Wear eye protection any time the safety of your
eyes is in question. This includes procedures in-
volving drilling, grinding, hammering, compressed
air and chemicals.
11. Wear the correct clothing for the job. Tie up or
cover long hair so it cannot be caught in moving
12. Do not carry sharp tools in clothing pockets.
13. Always have an approved fire extinguisher
available. Make sure it is rated for gasoline (Class
B) and electrical (Class C) fires.
14. Do not use compressed air to clean clothes, the
motorcycle or the work area. Debris may be blown
into your eyes or skin. Never direct compressed air
at yourself or someone else. Do not allow children
to use or play with any compressed air equipment.
15. When using compressed air to dry rotating
parts, hold the part so it can not rotate. Do not allow
the force of the air to spin the part. The air jet is ca-
pable of rotating parts at extreme speed. The part
may be damaged or disintegrate, causing serious
16. Do not inhale the dust created by brake pad and
Clutch wear. In most cases, these particles contain
asbestos. In addition, some types of insulating ma-
terials and gaskets may contain asbestos. Inhaling
asbestos particles is hazardous to health.
17. Never work on the vehicle while someone is
working under it.
18. When placing the vehicle on a stand, make sure
it is secure before walking away.

Handling Gasoline Safely

Gasoline is a volatile, flammable liquid and is one
of the most dangerous items in the shop.
Because gasoline is used so often, many people
forget that it is hazardous. Only use gasoline as fuel
for gasoline internal combustion engines. When
working on a vehicle, remember that gasoline is al-
ways present in the fuel tank, fuel lines and carbure-
tors. To avoid a disastrous accident when working
around the fuel system, observe the following
1. Never use gasoline to clean parts. See Cleaning
Parts in this section.
2. When working on the fuel system, work outside
or in a well-ventilated area.


Table of Contents


   Summary of Contents for Yamaha V star 1100

  • Page 1 CHAPTER ONE 9. Keep the work area clean and organized. WARNINGS, CAUTIONS AND NOTES 10. Wear eye protection any time the safety of your eyes is in question. This includes procedures in- The terms WARNING, CAUTION and NOTE volving drilling, grinding, hammering, compressed have specific meanings in this manual.
  • Page 2 This number is also stamped on the right side of the steering head (Figure 2). Yamaha’s pri- There are many types of chemical cleaners and sol- mary ID number is a variation of the VIN number.
  • Page 3: Fasteners

    CHAPTER ONE Record these numbers in the Quick Reference Data section at the front of the book. Have these numbers available when ordering parts. If neces- sary, use Table 1 and Table 2 to identify a particular motorcycle. FASTENERS Proper fastener selection and installation is im- portant to ensure that the vehicle operates as de- signed and can be serviced efficiently.
  • Page 4 GENERAL INFORMATION Torque specifications for specific components appear in the procedures and at the end of the appro- priate chapters. Specifications for torque are pro- vided in Newton-meters (N•m), foot-pounds (ft.-lb.) and inch-pounds (in.-lb.). Refer to Table 7 for torque conversion factors and to Table 6 for general torque specifications.
  • Page 5: Lubricants And Fluids

    CHAPTER ONE To use a cotter pin, first make sure the pin’s diam- eter is correct for the hole in the fastener. After cor- rectly tightening the fastener and aligning the holes, insert the cotter pin through the hole and bend the ends over the fastener (Figure 7).
  • Page 6: Brake Fluid

    GENERAL INFORMATION Always use an oil with a classification recom- mended by the manufacturer. Using an oil with a different classification can cause engine damage. Viscosity is an indication of the oil’s thickness. Full support Thin oils have a lower number while thick oils have Direction areas of thrust...
  • Page 7: Cleaners/degreasers/solvents, Gasket/applying Rtv Sealant

    CHAPTER ONE Brake fluid will damage plastic, painted or plated surfaces. Use extreme care when working with brake fluid. Immediately clean up any spills with soap and water. Rinse the area with plenty of clean water. Hydraulic brake systems require clean and mois- ture-free brake fluid.
  • Page 8 Threadlocking Compound In the case of Yamaha special tools, two part numbers are listed. The part number for special A threadlocking compound is a fluid applied to tools sold in the United States begin with a two let- the threads of fasteners.
  • Page 9 CHAPTER ONE The number stamped on the wrench refers to the distance between the work areas. This must match the distance across two parallel flats on the bolt head or nut. The box-end wrench is an excellent tool because it grips the fastener on all sides. This reduces the chance of the tool slipping.
  • Page 10 GENERAL INFORMATION lows the user to install or remove the nut without removing the socket. Sockets combined with any number of drivers make them undoubtedly the fastest, safest and most convenient tool for fastener removal and installa- tion. Impact Driver An impact driver provides extra force for remov- ing fasteners by converting the impact of a hammer into a turning motion.
  • Page 11 CHAPTER ONE specifications in this manual provide an indication of the range required. A torque wrench is a precision tool that must be properly cared for to remain accurate. Store torque wrenches in cases or separate padded drawers within a toolbox. Follow the manufacturer’s in- structions for their care and calibration.
  • Page 12 GENERAL INFORMATION HOW TO MEASURE TORQUE WRENCH EFFECTIVE LENGTH L + A = Effective length L = Effective length No calculation needed...
  • Page 13 CHAPTER ONE pliers. The sharp jaws will damage the objects they hold. Snap Ring Pliers Snap ring pliers (Figure 24) are specialized pliers with tips that fit into the ends of snap rings to re- move and install them. Snap ring pliers are available with a fixed action (either internal or external) or convertible (one tool works on both internal and external snap rings).
  • Page 14 GENERAL INFORMATION Calipers Calipers (Figure 27) are excellent tools for ob- taining inside, outside and depth measurements. Al- though not as precise as a micrometer, they allow reasonable precision, typically to within 0.05 mm (0.001 in.). Most calipers have a range up to 150 mm (6 in.).
  • Page 15 CHAPTER ONE DECIMAL PLACE VALUES* Indicates 1/10 (one tenth of an inch or millimeter) 0.010 Indicates 1/100 (one one-hundreth of an inch or millimeter) 0.001 Indicates 1/1,000 (one one-thousandth of an inch or millimeter) *This chart represents the values of figures placed to the right of the decimal point. Use it when reading decimals from one-tenth to one one-thousandth of an inch or millimeter.
  • Page 16 GENERAL INFORMATION STANDARD METRIC MICROMETER Locknut Sleeve line Thimble Spindle Anvil Rachet Sleeve Thimble marks marks Adjustment Before using a micrometer, check its adjustment as follows: 1. Clean the anvil and spindle faces. 2A. To check a 0-1 in. or 0-25 mm micrometer: a.
  • Page 17 CHAPTER ONE Care Micrometers are precision instruments. They must be used and maintained with great care. Note the following: 1. Store micrometers in protective cases or separate padded drawers in a toolbox. 2. When in storage, make sure the spindle and anvil faces do not contact each other or any other objects.
  • Page 18 GENERAL INFORMATION bore gauge is used to measure bore size, taper and out-of-round. When using a bore gauge, follow the manufacturer’s instructions. Compression Gauge A compression gauge (Figure 38) measures com- bustion chamber (cylinder) pressure, usually in psi or kg/cm .
  • Page 19 CHAPTER ONE electrical basics is necessary to perform simple the circuit or component capacity, the system will diagnostic tests. be damaged. Voltage Electrical Tests Voltage is the electrical potential or pressure in an Refer to Chapter Two for a description of various electrical circuit and is expressed in volts.
  • Page 20 GENERAL INFORMATION that carefully laid out parts will become disturbed, making it difficult to reassemble the components Filed correctly without a diagram. 16. Make sure all shims and washers are reinstalled in the same location and position. Slotted 17. Whenever a rotating part contacts a stationary part, look for a shim or washer.
  • Page 21 CHAPTER ONE Repairing Damaged Threads REMOVING BROKEN Occasionally, threads are stripped through care- SCREWS AND BOLTS lessness or impact damage. Often the threads can be repaired by running a tap (for internal threads on nuts) or die (for external threads on bolts) through the threads (Figure 42).
  • Page 22 GENERAL INFORMATION sulting from friction. Because bearings are preci- sion parts, they must be properly lubricated and maintained. If a bearing is damaged, replace it im- mediately. When installing a new bearing, take care to prevent damaging it. Bearing replacement proce- dures are included in the individual chapters where applicable;...
  • Page 23 CHAPTER ONE When installing a bearing onto a shaft, apply pres- sure to the inner bearing race (Figure 48). 2. When installing a bearing as described in Step 1, Press arm some type of driver is required. Never strike the bearing directly with a hammer or the bearing will be damaged.
  • Page 24 GENERAL INFORMATION CAUTION Before heating the housing, wash the housing thoroughly with detergent and water. Rinse and rewash the cases as required to remove all traces of oil and other chemical deposits. a. Heat the housing to approximately 100° C (212°...
  • Page 25 CHAPTER ONE Seal Replacement Spring Seals (Figure 51) are used to contain oil, water, grease or combustion gasses in a housing or shaft. Improper removal of a seal can damage the housing Dust lip or shaft. Improper installation of the seal can dam- Main lip age the seal.
  • Page 26 GENERAL INFORMATION riding time since the last service. Fill the engine This is especially important on a motorcycle as with the recommended type of oil. large as the XVS1100 or XVS1100A. The tires can 3. Drain all fuel from the fuel tank, run the engine easily develop flat spots if the motorcycle is stored until all the fuel is consumed from the lines and car- while resting on them.
  • Page 27 CHAPTER ONE Table 1 XVS1100 SERIAL NUMBERS (continued) Year/model Starting VIN number Starting primary ID number Model code 2003 XVS1100R (USA) JYAVP11E*3A034321 VP11E-0034321 5PBD XVS1100R C (Ca) JYAVP11Y*3A004090 VP11Y-0004090 5PBE XVS1100R (Cdn) – – – XVS1100R (Eur) – – – XVS1100R(Aus) –...
  • Page 28 GENERAL INFORMATION Table 3 MODEL NAMES AND NUMBERS Model Name Model number USA, California and Canada models V-Star 1100 (1999 model) XVS1100 V-Star 1100 Custom (2000-on) XVS1100 V-Star 1100 Classic XVS1100A V-Star 1100 Silverado XVS1100A V-Star 1100 Classic Cast Wheel XVS1100A UK models XVS1100 Drag Star...
  • Page 29 CHAPTER ONE Table 6 DECIMAL AND METRIC EQUIVALENTS Decimal Metric Decimal Metric Fractions Fractions 1/64 0.015625 0.39688 33/64 0.515625 13.09687 1/32 0.03125 0.79375 17/32 0.53125 13.49375 3/64 0.046875 1.19062 35/64 0.546875 13.89062 1/16 0.0625 1.58750 9/16 0.5625 14.28750 5/64 0.078125 1.98437 37/64 0.578125...
  • Page 30 GENERAL INFORMATION Table 8 CONVERSION FORMULAS Multiply: To get the equivalent of: Length Inches 25.4 Millimeter Inches 2.54 Centimeter Miles 1.609 Kilometer Feet 0.3048 Meter Millimeter 0.03937 Inches Centimeter 0.3937 Inches Kilometer 0.6214 Mile Meter 0.0006214 Mile Fluid volume U.S. quarts 0.9463 Liters U.S.
  • Page 31 CHAPTER ONE Table 9 TECHNICAL ABBREVIATIONS (continued) Air induction system ATDC After top dead center American Petroleum Institute Australia model BBDC Before bottom dead center Bottom dead center BTDC Before top dead center Celsius (centigrade) California model Cubic centimeters Capacitor discharge ignition Canada model Cubic inch displacement cu.
  • Page 32 GENERAL INFORMATION Table 10 METRIC TAP AND DRILL SIZE (continued) Metric Drill Decimal size equivalent fraction Nearest fraction 5 × 0.90 No. 20 0.161 5/32 6 × 1.00 No. 9 0.196 13/64 7 × 1.00 16/64 0.234 15/64 8 × 1.00 0.277 9/32 8 ×...
  • Page 33: Troubleshooting

    CHAPTER TWO TROUBLESHOOTING Begin any troubleshooting procedure by defining the engine will not run. Four-stroke engine operat- the symptoms as precisely as possible. Gather as ing principles are described in Figure 1. much information as possible to aid diagnosis. If the machine has been sitting for any length of Never assume anything and do not overlook the ob- time and refuses to start, check and clean the spark vious.
  • Page 34 TROUBLESHOOTING FOUR-STROKE ENGINE OPERATING PRINCIPLES Carburetor Intake valve Air/fuel Cylinder INTAKE COMPRESSION Intake valve opens Intake valve as piston begins closes and downward, drawing piston rises air/fuel mixture into in cylinder, the cylinder through compressing the valve. air/fuel mixture. Exhaust valve Exhaust EXHAUST...
  • Page 35 CHAPTER TWO c. The engine can start when the sidestand is up and the transmission is in neutral. d. If the sidestand is up, the engine will also start if the transmission is in gear and the clutch le- ver is pulled in. 2.
  • Page 36 Perform each step while remembering the engine will jump, the stronger the ignition system. Use the operating requirements described in this chapter. If Yamaha Ignition Checker (part No. YM-34487 or the engine still will not start, refer to the appropriate 90890-06754), the Motion Pro Ignition System troubleshooting procedures in this chapter.
  • Page 37 CHAPTER TWO WARNING Make sure the spark plug is away from the spark plug hole in the cylin der so the spark cannot ignite the mix ture in that cylinder. If the engine is flooded, do not perform this test. The firing of the spark plug can ignite fuel ejected from the opened spark plug hole.
  • Page 38 TROUBLESHOOTING 5. If the spark is good, check the following: 3. Fouled or improperly gapped spark plug(s). a. Try starting the engine by following normal 4. Leaking head gasket(s) or vacuum leak. starting procedures. If the engine does not 5. Incorrect valve clearance or valve timing. start, go to Step 6.
  • Page 39 CHAPTER TWO a. Incorrect ignition timing due to a malfunc- c. Ignitor unit. tioning ignition component. 3. Perform the fuel pump operational test described b. Improperly adjusted valves or worn valve in Chapter Eight. If the fuel flow is acceptable, seats.
  • Page 40 TROUBLESHOOTING 2. Carburetor adjustment incorrect; mixture too the sounds emanating from that area. At first, this rich. will be a cacophony of strange noise. Distinguish- 3. Choke not operating correctly. ing a normal noise from an abnormal one can be dif- ficult.
  • Page 41 CHAPTER TWO ENGINE LUBRICATION LEAKDOWN TESTER An improperly operating engine lubrication sys- tem will quickly lead to engine seizure. Check the engine oil level before each ride, and top off the oil Supply Cylinder as described in Chapter Three. Oil pump service is pressure pressure described in Chapter Five.
  • Page 42 TROUBLESHOOTING c. A leak rate exceeding 10 percent between cyl- ENGINE LEAKDOWN TEST inders points to an engine that is in very poor Perform an engine leakdown test to pinpoint en- condition and requires further inspection and gine problems caused by compression leaks. While possible engine repair.
  • Page 43 CHAPTER TWO 2. Bent or worn shift fork. Clutch Slips 3. Bent shift fork shaft. If the engine speed increases without an increase 4. Gear groove worn. in motorcycle speed, the clutch is probably slipping. 5. Damaged stopper bolt. Some main causes of clutch slipping are: 6.
  • Page 44 TROUBLESHOOTING 5. Bent or damaged shift fork. 2. Damaged final gearcase seals. 6. Worn gear dogs or slots. 3. Clogged breather. 7. Damaged shift drum grooves. 4. Oil level too high. CARBURETOR Jumps Out of Gear Test the indicated items when experiencing a par- 1.
  • Page 45 CHAPTER TWO 7. Incorrect air/fuel mixture. 8. Plugged carburetor jets. 9. Partially plugged fuel tank breather hose. 10. Faulty fuel pump. 11. Faulty starting circuit cutoff relay. Incorrect Fast Idle Speed Bent terminal A fast idle speed can be due to one of the follow- ing problems: 1.
  • Page 46 TROUBLESHOOTING Fuel Pump Circuit Troubleshooting Perform these test procedures in the listed se- quence. Each test presumes the components tested in the earlier steps are working properly. The tests can yield invalid results if they are performed out of sequence. If a test indicates that a component is working properly, reconnect the electrical connec- tions and proceed to the next step.
  • Page 47 CHAPTER TWO 6. Check all electrical wires where they join with Locked the individual metal terminals in both the male and female connectors. NOTE Dielectric grease is special grease that can be used on electrical compo nents such as connectors and battery connections.
  • Page 48 TROUBLESHOOTING own power source and should not be connected to a live circuit. Ammeter Ohmmeters may be analog (needle scale) or digital (LCD or LED readout). Both types of ohmmeters have different ranges of resistance for accurate readings. The analog ohmmeter also has a set-adjust control which is used to zero or cali- brate the meter;...
  • Page 49: Basic Electric Test Procedures

    CHAPTER TWO nection to ground is good so the problem is between the lamp and the power source. To isolate the problem, connect the jumper be- tween the battery and the lamp (B, Figure 13). If it comes on, the problem is between these two points. Next, connect the jumper between the battery and the fuse side of the switch.
  • Page 50 TROUBLESHOOTING Testing for a Short with a Self-powered Test Light or Ohmmeter Voltage drop 1. Disconnect the battery negative lead. 2. Remove the blown fuse from the fuse panel. 3. Connect one test lead of the test light or ohmme- ter to the load side (battery side) of the fuse terminal in the fuse panel.
  • Page 51 11. Check the continuity of the sidestand switch you cannot determine the exact cause of any electri- (Chapter Nine). cal system malfunction, have a Yamaha dealership 12. Check the ignition system diode by perform- retest that specific system to verify your test results.
  • Page 52 TROUBLESHOOTING 4. Test the starting circuit cutoff relay (SCCR) by 2. Perform the headlight voltage test in Chapter performing the continuity test described in Chapter Nine. Nine. 5. Test the starting system diode by performing the A meter light does not turn on SCCR diode test described in Chapter Nine.
  • Page 53 CHAPTER TWO A turn signal light and/or 3. Worn or damaged wheel bearings. turn signal indicator fails to flash 4. Worn or damaged swing arm pivot bearings. 5. Damaged steering head bearings. 1. Check the continuity of the affected turn signal 6.
  • Page 54 TROUBLESHOOTING Soft Suspension (Front Fork) Brakes Grab 1. Insufficient tire pressure. 1. Contaminated brake pads and disc. 2. Insufficient fork oil level or fluid capacity. 2. Incorrect wheel alignment. 3. Incorrect oil viscosity. 3. Warped brake disc. 4. Weak or damaged fork springs. 4.
  • Page 55 CHAPTER THREE LUBRICATION, MAINTENANCE AND TUNE-UP This chapter describes lubrication, maintenance 91 or higher). The pump octane rating ([R + M]/2) and tune-up procedures. is normally displayed at the service station fuel pump. Using gasoline with a lower octane rating Minor problems found during periodic inspec- tions are generally simple and inexpensive to cor- can cause pinging or spark knock.
  • Page 56 LUBRICATION, MAINTENANCE AND TUNE-UP mileage, perform engine tune-up procedures at the intervals specified in Table 1. More frequent tune-ups may be required if the mo- torcycle is primarily operated in stop-and-go traffic. The Tune-Up Specification label provides tune-up specifications. This label is on the lower frame member just beneath the left side cover (Fig- ure 1).
  • Page 57 CHAPTER THREE 5. Wipe the interior of the air filter housing with a shop rag dampened with cleaning solvent. Remove any debris that may have passed through a broken element. 6. Inspect the air filter element for tears or other damage that would allow unfiltered air to pass into the engine.
  • Page 58 LUBRICATION, MAINTENANCE AND TUNE-UP 6. Repeat Steps 3-5 for the other cylinder. 7. Standard compression pressure is specified in Table 5. When interpreting the results, note the dif- ference between the cylinders. Large differences in- dicate worn or broken rings, leaky or sticky valves, blown head gasket or a combination of all.
  • Page 59 CHAPTER THREE 8. Shut off the engine, and disconnect the timing light and portable tachometer. Install the timing in- spection cover (A, Figure 9). Valve Clearance Valve clearance measurement and adjustment must be performed with the engine at room temper- ature (below 35°...
  • Page 60 LUBRICATION, MAINTENANCE AND TUNE-UP 11. If necessary, adjust the valve clearance by per- forming the following: a. Loosen the locknut on the valve adjuster. b. With the feeler gauge between the valve stem and the adjuster end, turn the valve adjuster to NOTE obtain the specified clearance.
  • Page 61 CHAPTER THREE 13. Perform Steps 10 and 11 to check and adjust each valve in the front cylinder. 14. When the clearance of each valve is within specification, reinstall the removed parts by revers- ing the removal procedure. Note the following: a.
  • Page 62 LUBRICATION, MAINTENANCE AND TUNE-UP may be cleaned in solvent with a wire brush. Regap the plug as described in this section. 7. Inspect the spark plug cap and wires for cracks, hardness or other damage. If necessary, test the spark plug cap as described in Chapter Nine. Gap and Installation 1.
  • Page 63 CHAPTER THREE the spark plug post. If the cap does not completely contact the plug, the en gine may falter and cut out at high en gine speeds. COLD TYPE TYPE 6. Install each plug cap onto the correct spark plug. Press the cap onto the spark plug and rotate the as- sembly slightly in both directions.
  • Page 64 LUBRICATION, MAINTENANCE AND TUNE-UP SPARK PLUG CONDITIONS Normal Carbon fouled Oil fouled Gap bridged Overheated Sustained preignition 2. Low idle speed or prolonged idling. Carbon fouled 3. Ignition component failure. Soft, dry, sooty deposits covering the entire firing 4. Spark plug heat range too cold. end of the plug are evidence of incomplete combus- 5.
  • Page 65 CHAPTER THREE blistered porcelain insulator surface. This condition is commonly caused by a spark plug with a heat range that is too hot. If the spark plug heat range is correct, consider the following causes: 1. Lean air/fuel mixture. 2. Improperly operating ignition component. 3.
  • Page 66 LUBRICATION, MAINTENANCE AND TUNE-UP locate a recycler, contact the Ameri can Petroleum Institute (API) at 1. Start the engine and run it until it reaches normal operating temperature, then turn the engine off. 2. Securely support the bike on a level surface. 3.
  • Page 67 CHAPTER THREE in the hole with the small O-ring. See A, Fig- ure 30 and B, Figure 28. Torque the oil filter outer cover bolts to 10 N•m (89 in.-lb.). 9. Remove the oil filler cap (D, Figure 9) and in- sert a funnel into the oil filler hole.
  • Page 68 LUBRICATION, MAINTENANCE AND TUNE-UP 7. Attach an auxiliary fuel tank to the carburetor. Start the engine and let it warm up. 8. With the engine running at the idle speed listed in Table 5, check the gauge readings. The vacuum pressure at each cylinder must be within the range specified in Table 5.
  • Page 69 CHAPTER THREE 6. Rev the engine a couple of times to see if it set- tles down to the set speed. Readjust as necessary. 7. Shut off the engine and disconnect the portable tachometer. Throttle Cable Adjustment Always check the throttle cables before making any carburetor adjustments.
  • Page 70 LUBRICATION, MAINTENANCE AND TUNE-UP Cables can be lubricated with a cable lubricant and a cable lubricator as shown in Figure 40. Do not use chain lube to lubricate the cables. If necessary, refer to Throttle Cable Adjustment in this chapter. NOTE The main cause of cable breaking or cable stiffness is improper lubrica...
  • Page 71 CHAPTER THREE 4. Attach a cable lubricator to the cable following the manufacturer’s instructions. 5. Insert the nozzle of the lubricant can into the lu- bricator (Figure 40), press the button on the can and hold it down until the lubricant begins to flow out of the other end of the cable.
  • Page 72 LUBRICATION, MAINTENANCE AND TUNE-UP GENERAL LUBRICATION Swing Arm Bearings Clean the swing arm bearings in solvent and pack them with molybdenum disulfide grease at the in- tervals specified in Table 1. The swing arm must be removed to service the bearings. Refer to Chapter Twelve.
  • Page 73 CHAPTER THREE Removal/Installation 1. Securely support the motorcycle on a level sur- face. 2. Remove the battery cover as described in Chap- ter Fourteen. 3. Disconnect the negative cable (A, Figure 46) from the battery. 4. Pull back the boot and disconnect the positive cable (B, Figure 46).
  • Page 74 LUBRICATION, MAINTENANCE AND TUNE-UP CAUTION Always disconnect the battery cables from the battery. If the cables are left connected during the charging proce dure, the charger may damage the di odes within the voltage regulator/rect ifier. NOTE Some maintenance chargers can be used while the battery is connected to the motorcycle.
  • Page 75 CHAPTER THREE 10. Install the battery into the motorcycle as de- scribed in this chapter. New Battery Initialization Always replace a maintenance free battery with another maintenance free battery. Also make sure the battery is charged completely before installing it. Failure to do so will reduce the life of the battery. Check with the dealership on the type of pre-service that the battery received.
  • Page 76 (Figure 49) as described in Chapter Ten. FRONT SUSPENSION Fork Oil Change Yamaha does not provide an oil change interval for the front fork. Nonetheless, it is a good practice to change the fork oil once a year. If the fork oil be- comes contaminated with dirt or water, change it immediately.
  • Page 77 CHAPTER THREE 2. The front fork makes a clicking or clunking noise when the front brake is applied. 3. The steering feels tight or slow. 4. The motorcycle does not want to steer straight on level road surfaces. Inspection 1. Securely support the motorcycle so that the front tire clears the ground.
  • Page 78 LUBRICATION, MAINTENANCE AND TUNE-UP The spring preload can be adjusted to seven dif- ferent positions to suit riding, load and speed condi- tions. The third position is the default setting. The different adjuster ranges are: soft (No. 1 and No. 2), standard (No.
  • Page 79: Front Brake Pads

    CHAPTER THREE BRAKES Brake Hoses and Seals Replace the brake hoses and piston seals every two years. Check the brake hoses between the master cylin- der and each brake caliper. If there is any leak, tighten the connections and bleed the brakes as de- scribed in Chapter Thirteen.
  • Page 80 LUBRICATION, MAINTENANCE AND TUNE-UP 1. Securely support the motorcycle on level ground. 2. Look into the caliper assembly and inspect the wear indicators (Figure 61). 3. Replace both pads in the caliper if either pad is worn to the wear limit. On the front brakes, replace both pads in both front calipers if any pad is worn to the wear limit.
  • Page 81 CHAPTER THREE clockwise to raise the brake pedal and coun- terclockwise to lower it. b. Tighten the locknut to 16 N•m (12 ft.-lb.). c. Check the end of the brake pushrod. It must be visible through the hole (C, Figure 64) in the clevis.
  • Page 82 LUBRICATION, MAINTENANCE AND TUNE-UP Table 1 MAINTENANCE SCHEDULE* (continued) 4000 miles (7000 km) or 7 months Check the valve clearance; adjust as necessary Check the condition of the spark plugs; clean and adjust the gap as necessary Check the crankcase ventilation hose for cracks or damage;...
  • Page 83 CHAPTER THREE Table 2 TIRE SPECIFICATIONS XVS1100 models Front tire size 110/90-18 61S Manufacturer Bridgestone Exedra L309, Dunlop K555F Rear tire size 170/80-15M/C 77S Manufacturer USA, California and Canada models Bridgestone Exedra G546G, Dunlop K555 Europe and Australia models Bridgestone Exedra G546, Dunlop K555 Tire Inflation Pressure 0-90 kg (0-198 lb.) load Front...
  • Page 84 LUBRICATION, MAINTENANCE AND TUNE-UP Table 4 RECOMMENDED LUBRICANTS AND FLUIDS (continued) Engine oil API classification SE, SF or SG Viscosity 5° C (40° F) or above SAE 20W40 15° C (60° F) or below SAE 10W30 Capacity Oil change only 3.0 L (3.2 U.S.
  • Page 85 CHAPTER THREE Table 6 MAINTENANCE AND TUNE UP TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS Item N•m in.-lb. ft.-lb. Air filter cover bolts – Brake pedal height adjuster locknut – Cam sprocket cover bolts – Clutch adjuster locknut – Final gearcase drain bolt – Final gearcase oil filler bolt –...
  • Page 86 CHAPTER FOUR ENGINE TOP END This chapter provides complete service and over- The engine and transmission share a common haul procedures for the engine top end components. case and the same wet-sump oil supply. The This includes the camshafts, valves, cylinder heads, wet-plate clutch is located on the right side of the pistons, piston rings and the cylinder blocks.
  • Page 87 7. Remove the timing cover (A, Figure 8) and fly- wheel nut cover (B) from the alternator cover. The Yamaha sheave holder (part No. YS-01880 or 90890-01701) or its equivalent is needed to per- CAUTION form this procedure.
  • Page 88 ENGINE TOP END 1. Cylinder head nut 12. Gasket 2. Cylinder head cover bracket 13. Rear cylinder head 3. Cylinder head cap nut 14. Exhaust valve cover 4. Washer 15. Exhaust manifold 5. Cylinder bolt 16. Manifold nut 6. Valve cover bolt 17.
  • Page 89 CHAPTER FOUR 13. Front cylinder head 1. Cylinder head cap nut 14. Cam sprocket 2. Washer 15. Cam sprocket plate 3. Cylinder head nut 16. Washer 4. Cylinder head cover bracket 17. Cam sprocket bolt 5. Cylinder head bolt 18. Breather plate 6.
  • Page 90 ENGINE TOP END mark. Take a photograph or make a drawing so you can correctly time the camshaft during assembly. 8A. When servicing the rear cylinder, set it to top dead center on the compression stroke as follows: a. Use the flywheel nut to turn the crankshaft clockwise until the T-mark on the flywheel (A, Figure 9) aligns with the cutout in the al- ternator cover (B).
  • Page 91 CHAPTER FOUR 9) on the flywheel aligns with the alternator cover cutout (B). b. Rotate the crankshaft another 290° clockwise until the I-mark on the flywheel (A, Figure 11) aligns with the cutout in the alternator cover (B). c. Make sure the timing mark on the front cam sprocket plate (A, Figure 12) aligns with the pointer on the front cylinder head (B).
  • Page 92 ENGINE TOP END 15. Tie a safety wire around the cam chain and se- cure the wire to the engine so the chain will not fall into the crankcase. 16. Evenly loosen all seven cylinder head fasteners 1/4-turn at a time. Loosen the fasteners in sequence by reversing the tightening sequence shown in Fig- ure 15.
  • Page 93 CHAPTER FOUR 24. If necessary, remove the intake manifold and its O-ring from the cylinder head. NOTE An exhaust manifold is not used on the front cylinder. 25. If necessary, remove the two manifold nuts (A, Figure 19) and remove the exhaust manifold (B) from the rear cylinder.
  • Page 94 ENGINE TOP END chain remains meshed with the sprocket on the cam chain drive as sembly. If the chain is not held taut, the chain may become kinked, and cause damage to the crankcase, the cam chain and timing sprocket. 14.
  • Page 95 CHAPTER FOUR cam chain tensioner hole and tension the chain. The timing mark on the cam sprocket (B, Figure 14) should align with the pointer on the cylinder head (C) as noted during removal. 19. If the timing marks do not align, remove the sprocket.
  • Page 96 ENGINE TOP END and torque the intake manifold bolts to 10 N•m (89 in.-lb.). 27. If removed, install the exhaust manifold (B, Figure 19) onto the rear cylinder. Install a new ex- haust gasket, and torque the exhaust manifold nuts (A, Figure 19) to 20 N•m (15 ft.-lb.).
  • Page 97 Thread insert kits can be purchased at automotive supply stores or they can be installed at a Yamaha dealership. 5. After all carbon is removed from the combustion chambers and valve ports, clean the entire head in solvent.
  • Page 98 ENGINE TOP END CAMSHAFT Removal Refer to Figure 35. 1. Remove the cylinder head as described in this chapter. 2. Unthread the camshaft bushing retainer bolt (A, Figure 36) and remove the retainer (B). 3. Turn a 10-mm bolt into the camshaft, and pull the camshaft and bushing (A, Figure 37) from the cylinder head.
  • Page 99 CHAPTER FOUR 1. Rocker shaft bolt 2. Washer 3. Rocker shaft 4. Adjuster locknut 5. Valve adjuster 6. Rocker arm 7. Cylinder head 8. Camshaft 9. Pin 10. Bushing 11. Bushing retainer 12. Retainer bolt bushing is severely worn, inspect the bushing bore 4.
  • Page 100 ENGINE TOP END Measure the cam lobe height (Figure 41) and width (Figure 42) with a micrometer. Replace the cam- shaft if a lobe is worn beyond the service limits specified in Table 2. 6. Measure the camshaft runout with a dial indica- tor and V-blocks.
  • Page 101 Replace the camshaft and/or bushing, whichever is out of specification. ROCKER ARMS The following Yamaha special tools, or their equivalents, are required to remove the rocker arms: 1. Slide hammer bolt (8 mm): YU-1083-2 or 90890-01085.
  • Page 102 ENGINE TOP END 7. Inspect the rocker arms and shafts as described in this section. Installation NOTE Each rocker arm and shaft have be come mated through wear. Unless a part is being replaced, install each rocker arm with its original shaft, and install them in their original locations (intake or exhaust side) in the cylinder head.
  • Page 103 Removal (Rear Cylinder) The cam chain and cam chain drive assembly can be removed with the fly The Yamaha sheave holder (part No. YS-01880 wheel installed. However, the fly or 90890-01701), or its equivalent, is required to wheel must be removed for cam perform this procedure.
  • Page 104 ENGINE TOP END aligned. These marks must be aligned during assembly. 4. Remove the retainer bolt (A, Figure 55) and slide the retainer (B) from the slots on the cam chain drive assembly shaft. CAUTION An oil slot (Figure 56) in the end of the drive assembly shaft collects oil that lubricates the shaft and bushing in the cam chain drive assembly.
  • Page 105 CHAPTER FOUR b. Use a screwdriver or similar tool to pry the drive teeth on the gear until one set of teeth aligns with the other. c. Insert the 6-mm pin (Figure 58) into the aligned hole to lock the gear. 3.
  • Page 106 ENGINE TOP END Removal (Front Cylinder) Refer to Figure 66 when performing this proce- dure. 1. Remove the front cylinder head as described in this chapter. 2. Remove the front chain guide by lifting it from its seat in the crankcase and pulling it from the cam chain tunnel in the cylinder.
  • Page 107 CHAPTER FOUR 1. Rear chain guide 9. Woodruff key 2. Chain guide bolt 10. Primary drive nut 3. Cam chain drive assembly 11. Lockwasher 4. Cam chain 12. Keyed washer 5. Front chain guide 13. Timing gear 6. Retainer bolt 14.
  • Page 108 ENGINE TOP END cam chain drive assembly is installed in the correct cylinder. 2. Preload the cam chain drive assembly as follows: a. Cut a 6 × 15 mm pin from the shoulder (non-threaded portion) of a 6-mm bolt. b. Use a screwdriver or similar tool to pry the drive teeth on the gear until one set of teeth aligns with the other.
  • Page 109 The following procedures describe how Top view to check valve components and determine the needed service. A valve spring compressor (Yamaha part No. YM-04019 or 90890-04019), or equivalent, is needed to remove and install the valves. 25 mm outside diamter...
  • Page 110 ENGINE TOP END tects the bore from potential marring by the valve spring compressor. 4. Insert a bore protector between the valve assem- bly and the bore. 5. Install a valve spring compressor squarely over the valve retainer. Make sure the opposite end of the com- pressor rests against the valve head.
  • Page 111 CHAPTER FOUR or into separate small boxes. Label the set so you will know what cylinder it came from and whether it is an in take or an exhaust valve. This keeps parts from getting mixed up and makes installation simpler. Do not mix components from different valve assemblies or excessive wear may occur.
  • Page 112 ENGINE TOP END CAUTION To avoid loss of spring tension, do not compress the springs any more than necessary to install the valve keepers. 9. Compress the valve springs with a valve spring compressor and install the valve keepers (Figure 76).
  • Page 113 This procedure requires the following special tools lapping with fine carborendum paste, however, lap- and should be entrusted to a Yamaha dealership or ping is inferior to precision grinding. other qualified specialist.
  • Page 114 ENGINE TOP END the valve guides have a slight interference fit, cooling the guides and heating the head makes installa tion easier. 1. Install new circlips onto the new valve guides, and place the valve guides in a freezer overnight. 2.
  • Page 115 CHAPTER FOUR 7. Remove and discard the valve guide and circlip. Never reinstall a valve guide or circlip. They are no longer true and are not within tolerance. 8. After the cylinder head cools, check the guide bore for carbon or other contamination. Clean the bore thoroughly.
  • Page 116 ENGINE TOP END 18. Reface the valve seats as described in this chap- ter. 19. Install the intake manifold. Use new O-rings, and torque the intake manifold bolts to 10 N•m (89 in.-lb.). 20. When servicing a rear cylinder head, install the exhaust manifold with a new exhaust gasket.
  • Page 117 CHAPTER FOUR ing the cylinder head and taking it to a Yamaha deal- ership or machine shop to have the valve seats ground. The following procedure is provided if you choose to perform this task yourself. A valve seat cutter set (consisting of 30°, 45° and 60°...
  • Page 118 ENGINE TOP END and then use the 45° cutter to center the contact area. 8. If the contact area is too narrow and down away from the valve head (Figure 105), first use the 60° cutter and then use the 45° cutter to center the con- tact area.
  • Page 119 CHAPTER FOUR inder head, the valve seat should be tested. Check the seat by performing the leakage test described in the Cylinder Head section earlier in this chapter. If fluid leaks past any of the seats, disassemble that valve assembly and repeat the lapping procedure Valve lapper until there are no leaks.
  • Page 120 ENGINE TOP END 1. Cylinder bolt 2. Cylinder 3. Compression ring 4 Oil ring 5. Piston pin circlip 6. Piston 7. Base gasket 8. Dowel 9. Front cam chain guide 10. Piston pin...
  • Page 121 CHAPTER FOUR 12. Follow the break-in procedure in Chapter Five if the cylinder block was rebored or honed, or if a new piston or piston rings were installed. Inspection The following procedure requires the use of highly specialized and costly measuring instru- ments.
  • Page 122 ENGINE TOP END Piston Removal 1. Remove the cylinder head and cylinder as de- scribed in this chapter. 2. Lightly mark the top of the piston (front or rear) so it can be installed in the correct cylinder during installation. WARNING The edges of all piston rings are very sharp.
  • Page 123 CHAPTER FOUR the homemade tool shown in Figure 119. Do not drive out the piston pin. This could damage the pis- ton pin, connecting rod or piston. 6. Remove the piston from the connecting rod and remove the remaining circlip from the piston. Dis- card both piston pin circlips.
  • Page 124 ENGINE TOP END NOTE In the next step, install the second circlip with the gap away from the cut out in the piston. 8. Install the second piston pin circlip (Figure 118) into the groove in the piston. Make sure the circlip’s end gap does not align with the notch in the piston (Figure 120).
  • Page 125 CHAPTER FOUR sary, clean the holes and blow them out with com- pressed air. 5. Check the piston skirt (B, Figure 122) for gall- ing and abrasion, which may have been caused by Specified distance piston seizure. If a piston shows signs of partial sei- zure (bits of aluminum build-up on the piston skirt), replace the piston to reduce the possibility of engine noise and further piston seizure.
  • Page 126 ENGINE TOP END 4. Measure the inside diameter of the piston pin bore in the piston with a small bore gauge (Figure 127). 5. Calculate piston pin-to-piston clearance by sub- tracting the piston pin outside diameter from the piston pin bore inside diameter. If the clearance is outside the range specified in Table 2, replace the piston pin (if the piston bore inside diameter is within specification).
  • Page 127 CHAPTER FOUR 3. Inspect the grooves carefully for burrs, nicks or broken and cracked lands. Recondition or replace the piston if necessary. 4. Roll each ring around its piston groove as shown in Figure 131 to check for binding. Minor binding may be cleaned up with a fine-cut file.
  • Page 128 ENGINE TOP END Oil ring Top ring (lower rail) 25° 25° 25° 25° Oil ring (upper rail) Second ring Piston Ring Installation NOTE When installing any ring, liberally lu bricate the ring and piston groove with clean engine oil. 1. Install the oil control ring assembly into the bot- tom ring groove.
  • Page 129 CHAPTER FOUR Table 1 GENERAL ENGINE SPECIFICATIONS Item Specification Engine type Four-stroke, air-cooled, SOHC, V-twin Number of cylinders Bore × stroke 95 × 75 mm (3.74 × 2.95 in.) Displacement 1063 cc (64.87 cu. in.) Compression ratio 8.3 : 1 Compression pressure 1000 kPa (142 psi) @ 400 rpm Ignition timing...
  • Page 130 ENGINE TOP END Table 2 ENGINE TOP END SPECIFICATIONS (continued) Item New mm (in.) Service limit mm (in.) Valve head diameter Intake 47.0-47.2 (1.850-1.858) – Exhaust 39.0-39.2 (1.535-1.543) – Valve face width (intake and exhaust) 2.1 (0.083) – Valve seat width (intake and exhaust) 1.2-1.4 (0.047-0.055) 1.8 (0.071) Valve margin thickness...
  • Page 131 CHAPTER FOUR Table 3 ENGINE TOP END TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS (continued) Item N•m in.-lb. ft.-lb. Exhaust pipe-to-manifold bolts (rear cylinder) – Flywheel nut – Intake manifold bolts – Oil delivery pipe banjo bolt – Primary drive nut – Rear chain guide bolt –...
  • Page 132 CHAPTER FIVE ENGINE LOWER END This chapter describes the service procedures for 1. External gearshift mechanism. the following lower end components: 2. Clutch. 1. Crankcase assembly. 3. Carburetors. 2. Crankshaft. 4. Starter. 3. Connecting rods. 5. Alternator and starter clutch. 4.
  • Page 133: Engine Removal

    CHAPTER FIVE ENGINE REMOVAL 1. Frame 8. Engine bracket lower 13. Engine bracket upper 2. Cylinder head bracket bolt through bolt through bolt 3. Front frame member nut 9. Upper rear engine 14. Rear frame member bolt 4. Rear engine through bolt mounting bolt 15.
  • Page 134 Removal are no longer in place. 10. Disconnect the spark plug cap from each spark CAUTION Yamaha recommends removing the plug. alternator cover before removing the 11. Remove the cylinder head covers from each engine from the frame. Though this is cylinder head (Chapter Four).
  • Page 135 CHAPTER FIVE NOTE Two types of rocker arm bolts are used in the cylinder head: one with a single oil hole (A, Figure 5) and one with two oil holes (B). Note that the bolt with two oil holes (B, Figure 5) se cures the oil pipe to the cylinder head.
  • Page 136 ENGINE LOWER END 18. Remove the removable frame member as follows: a. Remove the nuts from the upper frame mem- ber bolts (Figure 13) and remove the bolts. b. Remove the lower frame member bolts (B, Figure 3) and lift the removable frame mem- ber from the frame.
  • Page 137 28. While the engine is removed for service, check all of the frame engine mounts for cracks or other damage. If any cracks are detected, take the chassis assembly to a Yamaha dealership for further exami- nation. Installation 10. Install the front engine bracket as follows: 1.
  • Page 138 ENGINE LOWER END 21. Install the starter, speed sensor and horn (Chap- ter Nine). 22. Route the oil level switch wire (A, Figure 3) along the path noted during removal and connect the bullet connector to its harness mate. 23. Install the right and left side covers, toolbox panel, frame neck covers and the sidestand (Chapter Fourteen).
  • Page 139 CHAPTER FIVE ALTERNATOR COVER 1. Dowel 2. Gasket 3. Wire clamp 4. Stator/pickup coil assembly 5. Stator mounting bolt 6. Alternator cover 7. Alternator cover bolt...
  • Page 140 ENGINE LOWER END 5. Remove the sidestand, toolbox cover and right side cover (Chapter Fourteen). 6. Roll the boot on the toolbox panel from the elec- trical connectors. Disconnect the three-pin stator connector (A, Figure 21) and the two-pin pickup coil connector (B) from their respective mates on the wiring harness.
  • Page 141 See Chapter Nine for stator and pickup coil re- moval and inspection procedures. FLYWHEEL AND STARTER CLUTCH The following Yamaha special tools, or their equivalents, are needed to remove or install the fly- wheel and starter clutch: 1. Sheave holder: part No. YS-01880 or 90890- 01701.
  • Page 142 ENGINE LOWER END FLYWHEEL AND STARTER CLUTCH 1. Bolt 9. Timing gear 2. One-way clutch housing 10. Snap ring 3. One-way clutch 11. Washer 4. Flywheel 12. Bearing 5. Washer 13. Starter wheel gear 6. Nut 14. Starter idler gear assembly 7.
  • Page 143 CHAPTER FIVE e. If the timing mark on the rear cam sprocket does not align with the pointer on the rear head, rotate the engine one turn clockwise. 2. Remove the alternator cover as described in this chapter. NOTE Install the sheave holder so it sits completely flat against the flywheel.
  • Page 144 ENGINE LOWER END 8. If necessary, lift the timing gear (A, Figure 35) from the back of the flywheel. Remove each pin and spring (Figure 36) from the slots in the flywheel. Installation 1. Insert a pin into each spring (Figure 37). 2.
  • Page 145 CHAPTER FIVE sembly (B, Figure 33) aligns with the Woodruff key (or the crankshaft keyway) when the cylinder is at top dead center. 10. Position the flywheel so the two marked teeth (A, Figure 41) align with the Woodruff key in the crankshaft.
  • Page 146 ENGINE LOWER END NOTE The one way clutch and one way clutch housing are not available sepa rately. If either part is worn or dam aged, replace the starter clutch assembly. 4. The one-way clutch is faulty if it fails either test. Replace the starter clutch assembly.
  • Page 147 CHAPTER FIVE 3. Inspect the teeth (A, Figure 48) of the starter wheel gear. Replace the gear if any teeth are worn, broken or missing. 4. Inspect the bearing surface (B, Figure 48) of the starter wheel gear for nicks or scratches. Replace the wheel gear if it shows signs of wear.
  • Page 148 ENGINE LOWER END 6. If necessary, remove the oil delivery pipe mount- ing bolt (C, Figure 53) at each end of the pipe, and remove the oil delivery pipe (D) from the crank- case. Watch for the O-ring (Figure 54) behind the fitting on each end of the pipe.
  • Page 149: Oil Pump

    CHAPTER FIVE OIL PUMP 1. Primary body 2. Oil strainer 3. Indexing pin 4. Outer rotor 5. Inner rotor 6. Secondary body 7. Outer rotor 8. Inner rotor 9. Drive pin 10. Pump shaft 11. Snap ring 12. Washer 13. Oil pump cover 14.
  • Page 150 ENGINE LOWER END 4. Turn the pump over and lift the primary pump body (Figure 59) from the pump. NOTE This pump has two sets of rotors: a thick set that fits in the primary body and a thin set for the secondary body. Keep each set of rotors together with its respective body.
  • Page 151 CHAPTER FIVE 11. Remove the shaft (Figure 67) from the pump cover. Assembly 1. Coat all parts with fresh oil prior to assembly. 2. Install the pump shaft (Figure 67) into the pump cover. The end with the holes enters from the out- board side of the cover.
  • Page 152 ENGINE LOWER END 1. Clean all parts in solvent and dry them thor- oughly with compressed air. 2. Inspect the primary body (A, Figure 68) for cracks and inspect the primary body rotors (B) for wear or abrasion. 3. Inspect the strainer (C, Figure 68) for tears or other damage that will allow contaminants into the pump.
  • Page 153 If necessary, replace the chain along with both the drive and driven sprocket. CRANKCASE The following Yamaha special tools, or their equivalents, are needed to service the crankcase: 1. Crankcase separating tool (part No. YU-01135-A or 90890-01135).
  • Page 154 ENGINE LOWER END LEFT CRANKCASE RIGHT CRANKCASE 5. Remove the mounting screw, and lift the shift also indicate the crankcase bolt tight ening sequence. See Figure 76. fork shaft stopper plate (Figure 75) from the right crankcase half. 6. Before removing the crankcase bolts, draw an outline of each case half on a piece of cardboard.
  • Page 155 CHAPTER FIVE any washer into its respective hole in the cardboard template so bolts can be quickly identified during assembly. NOTE Bolts No. 15 and No. 16 are silver col ored. These bolts must be reinstalled in their original locations during as sembly.
  • Page 156 ENGINE LOWER END a. Remove the two dowels (A Figure 77) from the crankcase mating surface. b. Remove the O-ring and its short collar (B, Figure 77) from the boss beneath the crank- shaft. c. Remove the O-ring from the crankcase mat- ing surface above the middle drive shaft.
  • Page 157 Install each shift fork with the letter tools are not available, have a facing up toward the right side of the Yamaha dealership or other qualified engine. service shop install the crankshaft. 6. Install the left shift fork into the countershaft 4.
  • Page 158 Do not add so much oil that it will drip from the bearing when the case half is turned over. 22. Apply a light coat of Yamaha Bond No. 1215 (part No. ACC-1100-15-01 or 90890-85505) or on equivalent sealant to the mating surface of the left crankcase half.
  • Page 159 CHAPTER FIVE 26. Turn the crankcase over and install the left crankcase bolts. BLIND BEARING REMOVAL CAUTION Rotate the crankshaft frequently dur ing the tightening process. If there is any binding, stop and correct the cause before proceeding. 27. Evenly tighten the left crankcase bolts in 1/4-turn increments in the sequence shown in Fig- ure 76.
  • Page 160 ENGINE LOWER END 3. Before heating the crankcase, remove the middle drive shaft assembly and middle driven shaft as- sembly (Chapter Seven). 4. Heat the crankcase to approximately 95-125° C (205-257° F) in an shop oven or on a hot plate. Do Puller not heat the crankcase with a torch.
  • Page 161 CHAPTER FIVE 1. Connecting rod 2. Connecting rod bolt 3. Connecting rod bearing 4. Main bearing 5. Oil pump drive sprocket 6. Crankshaft 7. Nut 8. Cap CRANKSHAFT Refer to Figure 94. Small end free play Removal/Installation Remove and install the crankshaft as described in Crankcase in this chapter.
  • Page 162 ENGINE LOWER END the clearance. If the side clearance is still outside the specified range, replace the crankshaft. 9. Use V-blocks and a dial gauge to check the crankshaft runout (Figure 96). If the runout ex- ceeds the specification in Table 1, replace the crankshaft.
  • Page 163 CHAPTER FIVE tab (B) on the bearing insert locks into the cutout in the rod cap or connecting rod. CAUTION Each connecting rod has a Y em bossed on one side (Figure 100). The connecting rod must be installed so this side faces the left crankshaft end (the tapered end).
  • Page 164 ENGINE LOWER END 3. Install rod and cap. Be sure the weight marks (Figure 99) on the side of the rod and cap align. CAUTION When torquing a connecting rod nut to specification, once 43 N•m (32 ft. lb.) of torque is applied, tightening cannot be stopped until the final torque value is achieved.
  • Page 165 1/3 throttle. shaft and connecting rods to a Yamaha dealership 2. Between 600 to 1000 miles (1000-1600 km) of for further service. Yamaha does not provide con- operation, avoid running above 1/2 throttle.
  • Page 166 ENGINE LOWER END Table 3 ENGINE LOWER END TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS Item N•m in.-lb. ft.-lb. Alternator cover bolts – Connecting rod nuts – Crankcase stud 10 mm – 12 mm – Crankcase bolts 6 mm – 10 mm – Engine mounting hardware Cylinder head bracket bolts –...
  • Page 167 CHAPTER SIX CLUTCH AND PRIMARY DRIVE GEAR This chapter includes service procedures for the CLUTCH COVER clutch, clutch release mechanism and primary drive gear. When inspecting components, compare any Removal/Installation measurement to the specifications in Table 1 at the end of the chapter. Replace any part that is dam- Refer to Figure 1.
  • Page 168: Clutch Cover

    CLUTCH AND PRIMARY DRIVE GEAR CLUTCH COVER 1. Oil filter cover bolt 8. Clutch cover bolt 2. Oil filter outer cover 9. Wire clamp 3. Air filter housing bracket 10. O-ring 4. Cap bolt 11. Clutch cover 5. Cap 12. Gasket 6.
  • Page 169 CHAPTER SIX c. Install the wire clamps behind the bolts (A, Figure 2) noted during removal. d. Apply Yamaha Bond 1215 or an equivalent sealant to the threads of the two indicated bolts (C, Figure 2). Oil will leak past these bolts if the threads are not sealed.
  • Page 170 CLUTCH AND PRIMARY DRIVE GEAR CLUTCH 1. Retaining wire 11. Clutch nut 2. Clutch plate No. 1 12. Lock plate 3. Clutch boss spring 13. Clutch spring bolt 4. Plate seat 14. Spring plate 5. Clutch boss 15. Clutch spring 6.
  • Page 171 CHAPTER SIX 5. Remove the pressure plate (B, Figure 10). 6. Remove the washer (Figure 11) and the release bearing (Figure 12) from pushrod No. 1. 7. Remove pushrod No. 1 (Figure 13) from the mainshaft, then remove pushrod No. 2 (Figure 14). 8.
  • Page 172 CLUTCH AND PRIMARY DRIVE GEAR the next step. However, do not use a steel washer. Steel will damage the gear teeth. 11B. If a clutch holder is not available, stuff a shop cloth, copper penny, or brass washer (Figure 18) between the primary drive gear and the primary driven gear on the clutch housing.
  • Page 173 CHAPTER SIX b. Lift the other end from the hole and remove the retaining wire from the clutch hub. c. Remove clutch plate No. 1 (B, Figure 21), the clutch boss spring and the plate seat from the clutch hub. Installation 1.
  • Page 174 CLUTCH AND PRIMARY DRIVE GEAR plates and discs are installed. The last item installed should be friction disc. 11. Make sure the marked tab on each friction disc sits in the marked slots on the clutch housing as shown in Figure 15. If necessary, remove the fric- tion discs and clutch plates.
  • Page 175 CHAPTER SIX a. Check the inner splines (Figure 30) on the clutch plates. Minor roughness can be cleaned with an oilstone or fine file. If any one plate has excessive roughness or wear, re- place all the clutch plates as a set. NOTE The clutch plate thickness does not apply to clutch plate No.
  • Page 176 CLUTCH AND PRIMARY DRIVE GEAR with the clutch plate tabs. They must be smooth for chatter-free operation. If there is any excessive damage, replace the compo- nents. b. Inspect the posts (B, Figure 32) for wear or galling. If there is any excessive damage, re- place the clutch boss.
  • Page 177: Clutch Release Mechanism

    CHAPTER SIX CLUTCH RELEASE MECHANISM 1. Pushrod No. 2 2. O-ring 3. Adjuster 4. Push screw 5. Ball assembly 6. Housing 7. Oil seal 8. Pin 9. Clutch lever 10. Washer 11. Nut 12. Spring 1. Remove the alternator cover as described in Chapter Five.
  • Page 178 CLUTCH AND PRIMARY DRIVE GEAR Assembly 1. Apply grease to the balls in the ball assembly (A, Figure 41). 2. Lower the ball assembly (A, Figure 41) onto the push screw (B). Seat the balls in the detents. 3. Invert the assembly and install it into the housing on the inboard side of the alternator cover (Figure 40).
  • Page 179 CHAPTER SIX a. Remove the mounting bolts (A, Figure 45), and pull the clutch adjuster cover (B) from the alternator cover. b. Disconnect the clutch cable (Figure 46) from the clutch lever. c. Pull the clutch cable end from the port in the alternator cover.
  • Page 180 1/2 tooth. Before removing the primary drive gear, set the front cylinder to top dead center on the compression stroke, The Yamaha sheave holder (part No. YU-01880 and note the position of the timing or 90890-04131), or an equivalent flywheel holder, marks on the cam sprocket plate and is needed to service the primary drive gear.
  • Page 181 CHAPTER SIX 2. Remove the cylinder head and the cam chain drive assembly from the front cylinder (Chapter Four). 3. Remove the clutch as described in this chapter. 4. Bend the ears of the lockwasher (A, Figure 50) away from the primary gear nut. 5.
  • Page 182 CLUTCH AND PRIMARY DRIVE GEAR Installation 1. Insert a pin into each spring (Figure 56) and in- stall two sets of pins/springs into each slot on the primary drive gear (Figure 55). Push the springs as far apart as possible. 2.
  • Page 183 CHAPTER SIX boss for the cam chain drive assembly shaft (C). See Figure 48. 10. Install the cam chain drive assembly and the cylinder head as described in Chapter Four. 11. Install the clutch as described in this chapter. Inspection 1.
  • Page 184 CHAPTER SEVEN TRANSMISSION, SHIFT MECHANISM AND MIDDLE GEAR This chapter describes service procedures for the 2. Loosen the shift lever clamp bolt (B, Figure 2). transmission, internal shift mechanism, external 3. Remove the footrest bracket bolts (Figure 3). shift mechanism, middle drive shaft assembly and 4.
  • Page 185: External Shift Mechanism

    CHAPTER SEVEN EXTERNAL SHIFT MECHANISM XVS1100 1. Washer 11. Locknut 2. E-clip 12. Shift rod 3. Stopper lever spring 13. Snap ring 4. Stopper lever 14. Shift pedal 5. Collar (XVS1100A models) 6. Pin 15. Wave washer 7. Shift shaft spring (XVS1100A models) 8.
  • Page 186 TRANSMISSION, SHIFT MECHANISM AND MIDDLE GEAR c. Install the shift lever so the index mark (A, Figure 2) on the shift shaft aligns with the slot in the shift lever. d. Torque the shift lever clamp bolt (B, Figure 2) to 10 N•m (89 in.-lb.). e.
  • Page 187 CHAPTER SEVEN 3. Slide the end of the shift shaft into the crankcase boss (B, Figure 6) until the assembly bottoms. Note the following: a. The arms of the shift shaft spring (C, Figure 4) must straddle the post in the crankcase. b.
  • Page 188 TRANSMISSION, SHIFT MECHANISM AND MIDDLE GEAR INTERNAL SHIFT MECHANISM 1. Retainer screw 6. Neutral pin 2. Shift fork shaft 7. Bearing retainer 8. Pin (20 mm) 3. Shift fork shaft 9. Pin (16 mm) 4. Shift fork 10. Shift cam 5.
  • Page 189 CHAPTER SEVEN 8. Check the pins (B, Figure 12) and shift cam ramps (C) for wear. SNAP RING a. If necessary, remove the shift drum screw (D, INSTALLATION Figure 12) to replace the shift cam, pins or bearing. Gear b. During assembly, torque the shift drum screw to 4 N•m (35 in.-lb.).
  • Page 190 TRANSMISSION, SHIFT MECHANISM AND MIDDLE GEAR TRANSMISSION 1. Middle drive gear 10. Mainshaft/first gear 2. Countershaft first gear 11. Mainshaft fourth gear 3. Countershaft fourth gear 12. Splined washer 4. Snap ring 13. Snap ring 5. Splined washer 14. Mainshaft second-third 6.
  • Page 191 CHAPTER SEVEN 1. Install fourth gear (A, Figure 19) onto the mainshaft, and slide it up against first gear. Make sure the engagement dogs on the gear face away from first gear. 2. Install a splined washer (B, Figure 19) and a new snap ring (C).
  • Page 192 TRANSMISSION, SHIFT MECHANISM AND MIDDLE GEAR 2. If it is still installed, remove the middle drive gear (Figure 23) from the countershaft. 3. Remove first gear, then remove fourth gear. 4. Remove the snap ring and the splined washer. 5. Remove the countershaft third gear. 6.
  • Page 193 CHAPTER SEVEN 8. Install first gear (Figure 30) so its flat side faces out. 9. Install the middle drive gear (Figure 23) so its splines engage those on the countershaft. 10. Mesh both assembled transmission shafts to- gether with the middle driven gear (Figure 31). Make sure all gears mate properly.
  • Page 194 MIDDLE DRIVE SHAFT ASSEMBLY The following Yamaha special tools, or their equivalents, are needed to remove and service the middle drive shaft assembly. Have these tools on hand before beginning this procedure.
  • Page 195 CHAPTER SEVEN MIDDLE DRIVE SHAFT ASSEMBLY 1. Bearing retainer 2. Spring retainer 3. Spring seat 4. Damper spring 5. Damper cam (male) 6. Damper cam (female) 7. Middle drive shaft nut 8. Bearing 9. Middle drive shaft shims 10. Middle drive shaft...
  • Page 196 TRANSMISSION, SHIFT MECHANISM AND MIDDLE GEAR 2. Apply engine oil to the teeth of the middle drive shaft and install the middle drive shaft assembly into the crankcase. 3. Turn the bearing retainer (A, Figure 40) until it is in place. 4.
  • Page 197 MIDDLE DRIVEN SHAFT ASSEMBLY 4. Inspect the internal splines on the male and fe- male sides of the damper cam. The Yamaha universal joint holder (part No. 5. Inspect the damper spring for wear, cracks or YM-04062 or 90890-04062), or its equivalent, is damage.
  • Page 198 TRANSMISSION, SHIFT MECHANISM AND MIDDLE GEAR MIDDLE DRIVEN SHAFT ASSEMBLY 1. Bearing 11. Speed sensor bracket 2. Middle driven shaft 12. Bolt 3. Washer 13. Rotor 4. Collapsible collar 14. Drive yoke 5. Collar 15. Washer 6. O-ring 16. Middle driven shaft nut 7.
  • Page 199 CHAPTER SEVEN socket, press the bearing from each side of the drive yoke. c. Remove the driven yoke (C, Figure 46) from the drive yoke (B). 4. Hold the drive yoke with the universal joint holder (A, Figure 48) and loosen the middle driven shaft nut (B).
  • Page 200 TRANSMISSION, SHIFT MECHANISM AND MIDDLE GEAR threadlocking compound to the nut threads and fin- ger-tighten the nut at this time. 10. Install the universal joint holder (A, Figure 48) onto the drive yoke and install the middle gear backlash band (Figure 49) onto the middle drive shaft assembly.
  • Page 201 15. Install the bearing housing bolts (A, Figure 45) They may also be damaged. and secure the speed sensor bracket and bearing housing to the crankcase. Apply Yamaha Bond 1215 or an equivalent sealant to the threads of the CHECKING MIDDLE...
  • Page 202 CHAPTER EIGHT AIR/FUEL, EXHAUST AND EMISSION CONTROL SYSTEMS This chapter describes service procedures for the Removal/Installation air/fuel, exhaust and emission control systems. Dur- NOTE ing inspection, compare measurements to the speci- During removal, label each hose and fications in the tables at the end of this chapter. its fitting.
  • Page 203 CHAPTER EIGHT FUEL TANK AND SEATS 1. Fuel tank 6. Seat bracket bolt 2. Fuel hose 7. Passenger seat 3. Fuel tank bolt 8. Nut 4. Rider’s seat 9. Meter connector 5. Seat bracket 8. Raise the fuel tank bracket and support the tank. Pull the meter connector (B, Figure 5) from be- neath the ignitor panel and disconnect the 14-pin meter connector (A, Figure 6) from its harness...
  • Page 204 AIR/FUEL, EXHAUST AND EMISSION CONTROL SYSTEMS 11. Pull the tank bracket rearward until the tank is free of the damper (A, Figure 7) on each side of the frame. Remove the fuel tank. 12. Installation is the reverse of removal. Note the following: a.
  • Page 205: Fuel Valve

    CHAPTER EIGHT FUEL VALVE 1. O-ring 2. Fuel valve body 3. Clamp 4. Fuel hose 5. Valve packing 6. Valve seal 7. Lever 8. Wave washer 9. Plate 10. Pan head screw 11. Washer 12. Screw 3. Drain the fuel from the tank into a clean, sealable b.
  • Page 206 AIR/FUEL, EXHAUST AND EMISSION CONTROL SYSTEMS AIR INTAKE 1. Cover bolt 11. Surge tank base 20. Air filter housing 2. Air filter cover 12. Air filter housing bracket (lower) 3. Air filter 13. Air filter housing duct 21. Cylinder head 4.
  • Page 207 CHAPTER EIGHT 3. Remove the cover bolts (A, Figure 10) and pull the air filter cover (B) from the housing. 4. Lift the air filter (A, Figure 11) from the posts in the air filter housing. 5. Loosen the clamp (B, Figure 11) that secures the surge tank duct to the back of the air filter housing.
  • Page 208 AIR/FUEL, EXHAUST AND EMISSION CONTROL SYSTEMS Inspection 1. Remove the plug (A, Figure 15) from the drain hose on the air filter housing. Clean out accumu- lated moisture or dirt. If necessary, blow the hose clear with compressed air. 2. Inspect all components of the air filter housing assembly.
  • Page 209 CHAPTER EIGHT Installation 1. If removed, install the cylinder head breather hose (Figure 20) onto the surge tank fitting so the dots on the hose face forward. 2. Make sure the clamp (A, Figure 19) on each car- buretor duct is loose and the carburetor breather hose (B) faces up.
  • Page 210 AIR/FUEL, EXHAUST AND EMISSION CONTROL SYSTEMS needle jet, which increases the effective flow capac- ity of the jet. At full throttle, the carburetor venturi is fully open and the needle is lifted far enough to permit the main jet to flow at full capacity. The choke circuit is a bystarter system.
  • Page 211 CHAPTER EIGHT from the carburetor bracket and disconnect the ca- ble ends from the throttle wheel. If necessary, turn the pull cable adjuster (C, Figure 26) to create addi- tional slack. 12. Loosen the cable clamp screw (A, Figure 27) and disconnect the choke cable end (B) from the choke linkage.
  • Page 212 AIR/FUEL, EXHAUST AND EMISSION CONTROL SYSTEMS d. Route the throttle cables and choke cable along their original paths. These cables must not be twisted, kinked or pinched. Secure the cables in the holder (B, Figure 7). e. Connect each hose to the fitting noted during removal and route the hose along its original path.
  • Page 213 CHAPTER EIGHT 7. Remove the cotter pin (A, Figure 35) and washer. Remove the throttle arm (B, Figure 35) from the throttle shaft on the front carburetor. 8. Remove the mounting screw (A, Figure 36) and lift the choke linkage (B) from the starter plunger on the rear carburetor.
  • Page 214 AIR/FUEL, EXHAUST AND EMISSION CONTROL SYSTEMS CARBURETOR 18. Throttle position 1. Screw 2. Choke cable bracket sensor (TPS) 19. Carburetor heater 3. Top cover 4. Spring 20. Ground terminal 5. Needle retainer 21. Pilot jet 6. Jet needle 22. Spacer 7.
  • Page 215 CHAPTER EIGHT 4. If the carburetors were not separated, disconnect the carburetor heater wires by performing Steps 1-4 in Separation in this section. 5. Remove the top cover as follows: a. Remove the top cover screws (A, Figure 41). b. When servicing the rear carburetor, remove the choke cable bracket (B, Figure 41) from the top cover.
  • Page 216 AIR/FUEL, EXHAUST AND EMISSION CONTROL SYSTEMS 11. Remove the carburetor heater (A, Figure 48) and its washer from the bottom of the carburetor body. When servicing the rear carburetor, also re- move the heater ground terminal (B, Figure 48). 12. Remove the mounting screws (A, Figure 49) and lift the float bowl (B) from the carburetor body.
  • Page 217 CHAPTER EIGHT 15. Remove the screw (A, Figure 53) and pull the valve seat (B) from the carburetor body. 16. Remove the pilot jet (Figure 54). 17. Remove the starter jet (Figure 55) and spacer. 18. Remove the main jet (Figure 56). 19.
  • Page 218 AIR/FUEL, EXHAUST AND EMISSION CONTROL SYSTEMS 8. Install the float pin (B, Figure 51) and secure it with the screw (A). 9. Install a new float bowl O-ring (Figure 50) and set the float bowl onto the bottom of the carburetor (B, Figure 49).
  • Page 219 CHAPTER EIGHT 18. If removed, install the starter plunger (B, Fig- ure 39). 19. Assemble the coasting enricher, if it was disas- sembled, as follows: a. Install the coasting enricher diaphragm (B, Figure 40) onto the carburetor (Figure 62). b. Install the spring (A, Figure 40) into the cen- ter of the diaphragm.
  • Page 220 AIR/FUEL, EXHAUST AND EMISSION CONTROL SYSTEMS structions that may cause the vacuum piston to hang up during normal operation. 7. Inspect the vacuum piston (B, Figure 61) for scoring and wear. Replace it if necessary. 8. Inspect the diaphragm on the vacuum piston for tears, cracks or other damage.
  • Page 221: Fuel Level

    If a pilot screw must Drill stop be removed, perform the procedure as described, then have a Yamaha deal Plug ership perfom the final adjustment. 1. Set a stop 6 mm from the end of a 1/8 in. drill bit.
  • Page 222 Fuel level inspection re- quires a special fuel level gauge (Yamaha part No. f. Reinstall the carburetor assembly and re- YM-01312-A or 90890-01312). check the fuel level.
  • Page 223: Throttle Position Sensor

    CHAPTER EIGHT IDLE SPEED ADJUSTMENT Refer to Chapter Three. THROTTLE CABLE ADJUSTMENT Refer to Chapter Three. THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR Testing Perform the following test procedure whenever the self-diagnostic system (see Chapter Nine) flashes a TPS error (code 3). Perform the test in the listed sequence.
  • Page 224: Carburetor Heater

    AIR/FUEL, EXHAUST AND EMISSION CONTROL SYSTEMS 5. Connect the positive lead of an ohmmeter to the yellow terminal (Figure 77) on the sensor side of the connector and connect the negative lead to the black terminal. 6. With the throttle fully closed, rotate the sensor body (B, Figure 78) until the resistance is within the fully closed range specified in Table 2.
  • Page 225 CHAPTER EIGHT 3. Disconnect the four-pin harness connector from the carburetor heater relay and remove the relay. 4. Installation is the reverse of removal. Thermo Switch Test 1. Disconnect the two-pin thermo switch connector (B, Figure 75) from its harness mate. CAUTION The thermo switch is sensitive to shock.
  • Page 226 AIR/FUEL, EXHAUST AND EMISSION CONTROL SYSTEMS 10. Replace the thermo switch if the test results are not within the above specifications. Carburetor Heater Test 1. Disconnect the electrical lead from the carbure- tor heater and remove the heater from the carbure- tor.
  • Page 227 CHAPTER EIGHT NOTE The piece of string in the next step is used to pull the new throttle cable through the frame so the cable will be properly routed. 10. Tie a piece of heavy string or cord to the ends of the throttle cable at the carburetor.
  • Page 228 AIR/FUEL, EXHAUST AND EMISSION CONTROL SYSTEMS 10. Starting at the choke lever, carefully pull the cable from the motorcycle, following the path of the original cable. 11. Lubricate the new cable as described in Chap- ter Three. 12. Untie the string from the old cable and tie it to the carburetor end of the new cable.
  • Page 229 CHAPTER EIGHT b. Position the filter so its arrow points toward the fuel pump. c. Check the hose clamps for damage; replace them if necessary. d. After installation is complete, thoroughly check for leaks. FUEL PUMP Removal/Installation 1. Disconnect the electrical lead from the negative battery terminal.
  • Page 230 AIR/FUEL, EXHAUST AND EMISSION CONTROL SYSTEMS Relay Resistance Test 1. Remove the fuel tank and surge tank as de- scribed in this chapter. 2. Remove the frame neck cover (Chapter Four- teen). 3. Remove the starting circuit cutoff relay (C, Fig- ure 75) from the mounting tang and disconnect the connector from the relay.
  • Page 231: Air Induction System

    CHAPTER EIGHT AIR INDUCTION SYSTEM 1. Vacuum hose (to rear cylinder intake manifold) 2. Orifice 3. AIS air filter 4. Air filter housing 5. Air cut valve 6. Reed valve 7. Housing 8. Bracket 9. AIS output hose 10. AIS pipe (to rear cylinder) 11.
  • Page 232 AIR/FUEL, EXHAUST AND EMISSION CONTROL SYSTEMS 1. Remove the toolbox cover and the side cover from the left side as described in Chapter Fourteen. 2. Release the hose clamp (Figure 96) and discon- nect the AIS pipe from its fitting on each cylinder head.
  • Page 233 CHAPTER EIGHT 9. Replace any component that is worn, damaged or out of specification. EVAPORATIVE EMISSION CONTROL (CALIFORNIA MODELS) All models sold in California are equipped with an evaporative emission control (EVAP) system, which reduces the amount of fuel vapors released into the atmosphere.
  • Page 234 AIR/FUEL, EXHAUST AND EMISSION CONTROL SYSTEMS 1. Fitting 2. Solenoid valve 3. Rollover valve 4. Clamp 5. Canister...
  • Page 235 CHAPTER EIGHT Canister Removal/Installation NOTE The two ports on the top of the EVAP canister are identified as TANK and CARB. See Figure 104. Label each hose before removal so they can be easily identified during assembly. 1. Remove the toolbox cover and the side cover from the left side of the motorcycle.
  • Page 236: Exhaust System

    AIR/FUEL, EXHAUST AND EMISSION CONTROL SYSTEMS EXHAUST SYSTEM 1. Hanger bolt 9. Exhaust manifold 2. Muffler assembly 10. Nut 3. Muffler gasket 11. Front exhaust pipe 4. Clamp screw 12. Exhaust cover 5. Rear exhaust pipe 13. Nut 6. Bolt 14.
  • Page 237 CHAPTER EIGHT 1. Securely support the motorcycle on level ground. 2. Loosen the muffler clamp screw (A, Figure 107) on each muffler. 3. Remove the muffler hanger bolts (B, Figure 107). 4. Pull the muffler assembly rearward. Separate each muffler from its respective exhaust pipe and remove the muffler assembly.
  • Page 238: Carburetor Specifications

    AIR/FUEL, EXHAUST AND EMISSION CONTROL SYSTEMS g. Then, torque the muffler hanger bolts (B, Fig- ure 107) to 25 N•m (18 ft.-lb.). h. After installation is complete, start the engine and make sure there are no exhaust leaks. Correct any leak prior to riding the bike. Inspection The exhaust system is vital to the motorcycle’s operation and performance.
  • Page 239 CHAPTER EIGHT Table 1 CARBURETOR SPECIFICATIONS (continued) Pilot screw Europe and Australia models 3 turns out Valve seat size Starter jet G.S. 1 No. 42.5 G.S. 2 Bypass 1 Bypass 2 Bypass 3 Throttle valve size No. 125 Fuel level 4-5 mm (0.16-0.20 in.) above float bowl mark Idle speed 950-1050 rpm...
  • Page 240 CHAPTER NINE ELECTRICAL SYSTEM This chapter describes service procedures for the CHARGING SYSTEM following electrical sub-systems and components: The charging system consists of the battery, main 1. Charging system. fuse, main switch, alternator and the regulator/recti- 2. Ignition system. fier assembly. 3.
  • Page 241 CHAPTER NINE 5. The ammeter should read less than 0.1 mA. If the amperage is greater, there is a current draw on the system that will discharge the battery. Charging Voltage Test 1. Connect an engine tachometer to the spark plug lead on the No.
  • Page 242 ELECTRICAL SYSTEM 7. Installation is the reverse of removal. a. Apply a medium-strength threadlocking compound to the threads of the stator mount- ing screws (C, Figure 7) and the pickup coil mounting screws (B). Torque the stator screws to 10 N•m (89 in.-lb.) and the pickup coil screws to 7 N•m (62 in.-lb.).
  • Page 243 CHAPTER NINE 1. Dowel 2. Gasket 3. Wire clamp 4. Stator/pickup coil assembly 5. Stator mounting bolt 6. Alternator cover 7. Alternator cover bolt vides longer component life and delivers a strong, tion coil and the magnetic field within the coil col- reliable spark throughout the entire range of engine lapses.
  • Page 244 ELECTRICAL SYSTEM 1. Never connect the battery backwards. If the bat- tery polarity is incorrect, the voltage regulator, al- ternator and ignitor unit will be damaged. 2. Do not disconnect the battery while the engine is running. 3. Keep all connections between the various units clean and tight.
  • Page 245 CHAPTER NINE 1. Securely support the motorcycle on level ground. 2. Remove the fuel tank, air filter housing and surge tank as described in Chapter Eight, and the re- move the frame neck cover (Chapter Fifteen). 3. Disconnect the electrical lead from the negative battery terminal (A, Figure 1).
  • Page 246 Before purchasing a new ignitor unit, have the system checked by a Yamaha dealership or another qualified shop. Most motorcycle dealerships will not accept returns on electrical components. 1. Remove the toolbox cover and the side cover Removal/Installation from the left side as described in Chapter Fourteen.
  • Page 247 CHAPTER NINE a. Apply a dielectric compound to the electrical connectors prior to reconnecting them. b. Make sure the electrical connections are free of corrosion and are completely coupled to each other. c. Tighten the screws securely. d. Install all removed items. STARTING SYSTEM When the starter button is pressed under the cor- rect conditions, control current flows through the...
  • Page 248 ELECTRICAL SYSTEM STARTER 1. Case bolt 10. Armature 2. Rear end cap 11. O-ring 3. Brush holder 12 Armature housing (negative brush set) 13. Washer 4. Positive brush set 14 Gear plate 5. Nut 15. Planetary gear 6. Washer/shim set 16.
  • Page 249 CHAPTER NINE 4. Remove the front end cap (D, Figure 17) from the housing and remove the locating key (Figure 20). It could come out with the end cap or it could remain in the housing. 5. Lift each planetary gear (Figure 21) from its post in the front end cap.
  • Page 250 ELECTRICAL SYSTEM 11. Remove the shims (A, Figure 28) from the commutator end of the armature shaft. Record the number of shims and their locations. Store the shims in a marked plastic bag. 12. Pull the armature (Figure 29) from the arma- ture housing.
  • Page 251 CHAPTER NINE washer and the nut (Figure 31). The number and or- der of the washers and shims varies. 16. Remove the brush holder assembly (Figure 32) from the armature housing. 17. Remove the insulator (A, Figure 33) from the brush holder assembly.
  • Page 252 ELECTRICAL SYSTEM a. Make sure an insulated portion of each posi- tive brush wire (Figure 35) touches the brush holder. b. If bare wire from the positive brush touches the brush holder, disassemble the brush holder assembly and reassemble it properly. 7.
  • Page 253 1. Pull the spring away from each brush and pull undercut is less than specification (Table 1), have the brush out of its holder. Measure the length of the commutator serviced by a Yamaha dealership or each brush with a vernier caliper. If the length of electrical repair shop.
  • Page 254 ELECTRICAL SYSTEM 3. Inspect the commutator copper bars for discolor- ation. If a pair of bars is discolored, armature coils are grounded. Replace the starter. 4. Measure the diameter of the commutator with a vernier caliper. Replace the starter if the commuta- tor diameter is less than the service limit specified in Undercut Table 1.
  • Page 255 CHAPTER NINE 4. Lift the starting circuit cutoff relay (Figure 47) from its tang and disconnect the 12-pin connector from the relay. 5. Installation is the reverse of removal. Make sure the electrical terminals are clean and pack the con- nector with dielectric grease.
  • Page 256 ELECTRICAL SYSTEM when the positive test lead is connected to the blue/yellow terminal in the relay unit (B, Fig- ure 50) and the negative test lead is con- nected to the sky blue terminal (A). 4. Replace the starting circuit cutoff relay if the ig- nition system diode fails either portion the test.
  • Page 257 CHAPTER NINE the relay; connect the negative battery terminal to the blue terminal (B). 6. Connect the ohmmeter positive test lead to the red (C, Figure 52) terminal in the relay; connect the negative test lead to the black terminal (D). The re- lay should have continuity.
  • Page 258 ELECTRICAL SYSTEM 5A. On 1999-2000 XVS1100 models, remove the two headlight housing bolts and remove the hous- ing from the headlight bracket. 5B. On 2001-on XVS1100 models, remove the headlight housing bolts and remove the housing from the headlight bracket. 5C.
  • Page 259 CHAPTER NINE HEADLIGHT (1999-2000 XVS1100 MODELS) 1. Headlight rim 9. Bulb plate 2. Bulb clip 10. Socket cover 3. Retaining ring 11. Screw 4. Lens 12. Headlight housing 5. Nut 13. Nut 6. Adjuster 14. Bolt 7. Spring 15. Cable tie 8.
  • Page 260 ELECTRICAL SYSTEM HEADLIGHT (2001-ON XVS1100 MODELS) 1. Adjuster screw 8. Damper 2. Rim 9. Headlight housing 3. Lens 10. Boot 4. Screw 11. Spring 5. Washer 12. Nut 6. Bulb 13. Nut 7. Collar 14. Bolt 6. Remove the fuel tank (Chapter Eight) and dis- METER ASSEMBLY connect the meter assembly connector (Figure 65) Removal/Installation...
  • Page 261 CHAPTER NINE HEADLIGHT (XVS110A MODELS) 1. Screw 9. Lens 2. Washer 10. Mounting ring 3. Adjuster 11. Bulb 4. Headlight rim 12. Socket cover 5. Spring 13. Screw 6. Nut 14. Headlight housing 7. Bulb clip 15. Collar 8. Retaining clip 16.
  • Page 262 ELECTRICAL SYSTEM 1. Remove the meter assembly as described in this chapter. 2. Check the voltage in the illumination light cir- cuit as follows: a. Set a voltmeter to the 20 DC volt range. b. Connect the voltmeter positive test lead to the blue terminal (C, Figure 66) in the harness side of the meter connector;...
  • Page 263: Meter Assembly

    CHAPTER NINE METER ASSEMBLY 1. Screw 2. Washer 3. Trip meter button 4. Bezel 5. Guide 6. Meter 7. Harness 8. Clamp 9. Bulb 10. Meter cover 11. Nut 12. Damper 13. Meter bracket 14. Lockwasher...
  • Page 264 ELECTRICAL SYSTEM TAILLIGHT (XVS1100 MODELS) 1. Reflector 2. Gasket 3. Bulb 4. Lens 5. Screw 6. Reflector 7. License plate bracket 8. Bolt 9. Taillight housing 10. Washer 11. Nut 12. Fender bracket 13. Taillight cable...
  • Page 265 CHAPTER NINE TAILLIGHT (XVS1100A MODELS) 1. Nut 7. Lens 2. Washer 8. Screw 3. Damper 9. Bulb 4. Collar 10. Socket 5. Taillight 11. Taillight cable 6. Gasket d. Remove the nut and washer, and lower the housing and its wiring from the fender. Watch for the collar on each stud.
  • Page 266 ELECTRICAL SYSTEM e. Turn the main switch on. On models with a light switch, turn it on also. f. Apply the brake lever or pedal. g. If the voltmeter does not read battery voltage, the wiring between the main switch and the taillight/brake light connector is faulty.
  • Page 267 CHAPTER NINE 5. If the reading is less than battery voltage, the wiring between the main switch and the auxiliary light connectors is faulty and must be repaired. SIGNAL SYSTEM The signal system includes the horn, turn signal lights, brake light and indicator lights (except the high beam indicator, which is part of the lighting system).
  • Page 268 ELECTRICAL SYSTEM TURN SIGNALS (XVS1100 MODELS) 1. Bulb 2. Clamp bolt 3. Clamp nut 4. Turn signal housing 5. Gasket 6. Lens rim 7. Lens 8. Screw 9. Turn signal bracket (rear) 10. Nut 11. Washer 12. Spacer 13. Collar 14.
  • Page 269 CHAPTER NINE TURN SIGNALS (XVS1100A MODELS) 1. Screw 2. Lens 3. Lens rim 4. Gasket 5. Clamp bolt 6. Bulb 7. Turn signal housing 8. Clamp nut 9. Damper 10. Blind plug 11. Turn signal bracket 12. Bolt 13. Bracket cover 3.
  • Page 270 ELECTRICAL SYSTEM a. On XVS1100A models, make sure the damper is in place on the mounting stalk. b. Apply a dielectric compound to the electrical connectors prior to reconnecting them. c. Make sure the electrical connectors are free of corrosion and are completely coupled to each other.
  • Page 271 CHAPTER NINE d. Turn the main switch on and check the volt- age on the meter. If it does not read battery voltage, the wiring between the main switch and the flasher relay is faulty. Repair the wir- ing if input voltage is less than battery volt- age.
  • Page 272 ELECTRICAL SYSTEM NEUTRAL INDICATOR LIGHT Circuit Test 1. Remove the fuel tank (Chapter Eight) and dis- connect the meter assembly connector (Figure 87) from its harness mate. 2. Check the voltage in the circuit as follows: a. Set a voltmeter to the 20 DC volt range. b.
  • Page 273 CHAPTER NINE (C, Figure 91). Connect the negative test probe to the black terminal (D). c. If the relay does not have continuity, replace the oil lamp level. 3. Check the oil level indicator wiring as follows: a. Remove the fuel tank (Chapter Eight) and disconnect the meter assembly connector (Figure 87) from its harness mate.
  • Page 274 ELECTRICAL SYSTEM continuity diagrams for various switches are in the wiring diagrams at the back of this manual. For example, Figure 95 shows a continuity dia- gram for a horn button. It shows which terminals should have continuity when the horn switch is in a given position.
  • Page 275 CHAPTER NINE 2. Remove the frame neck cover as described in Chapter Fourteen. 3. Disconnect the left handlebar switch white six-pin connector (A, Figure 96) and the blue six-pin connector (B) from their harness mates. 4. Remove the mounting screw (Figure 97) and re- move the bottom cover from the handlebar switch.
  • Page 276 ELECTRICAL SYSTEM 8. Disconnect the ends of the throttle cables from the throttle drum (A, Figure 103), and remove the pull and return cables from the switch housing. 9. Installation is the reverse of removal. Note the following: a. Apply lithium soap grease to the ends of the pull and return cables.
  • Page 277 CHAPTER NINE a. Apply a dielectric compound to the electrical connector prior to reconnecting it. b. Make sure the electrical connector is free of corrosion and both sides are completely cou- pled to each other. c. Install all items removed. d.
  • Page 278 ELECTRICAL SYSTEM 2. Disconnect the spring (B, Figure 109) from the boss on the brake pedal. 3. Release the cable tie (C, Figure 109) and re- move the switch (D) from its mount. 4. Installation is the reverse of removal. a.
  • Page 279 CHAPTER NINE CAUTION Never substitute metal foil or wire for a fuse. Never use a higher amperage Blown fuse fuse than specified. An overload could result in fire and complete loss of the bike. Main Fuse Removal The 30-amp main fuse (A, Figure 110) and a spare (B) are located on the starter relay.
  • Page 280 ELECTRICAL SYSTEM Table 1 ELECTRICAL SYSTEM SPECIFICATIONS Cylinder numbering Rear cylinder is No. 1 Battery Model GT14B-4 Capacity 12 V 12 AH Open circuit voltage 12.8 V or greater @ 20° C (68° F) Charging voltage (output voltage) 14 volts, 340 watts @ 5000 rpm Stator coil resistance 0.36-44 ohms @ 20°...
  • Page 281 CHAPTER NINE Table 2 REPLACEMENT BULBS (continued) Item Voltage/wattage Meter light 14 V 1.4 W Neutral indicator light 12 V 1.7 W High beam indicator light 12 V 1.7 W Turn signal indicator light 12 V 1.7 W Oil level warning light 12 V 1.7 W Engine warning light 12 V 1.7 W...
  • Page 282 CHAPTER TEN WHEEL AND TIRES This chapter describes repair and maintenance Again, check the manufacturer’s instructions and procedures for the wheels and tires. When inspect- perform any necessary modifications before sup- ing any of the components described in this chapter, porting the motorcycle with the adjustable compare all measurements to the tire and wheel ser- centerstand.
  • Page 283 CHAPTER TEN ence of the wheel so the rotor lies between the blocks and does not rest on them. Also protect the rotor when transporting a wheel to a dealership or tire specialist. Do not place a wheel in a car trunk or truck bed without protecting the rotor from side impact.
  • Page 284 WHEEL AND TIRES b. Check the bearing’s outer seal (A, Figure 5) for buckling or other damage that would al- low dirt to enter the bearing. c. Check the bearing fit in the hub by trying to move the bearing laterally with your hand. The bearing should be tight in the bore.
  • Page 285 CHAPTER TEN 11. On laced wheels, check the spoke tension as described in this chapter. BEARING REMOVAL NOTE The following procedure describes the use of the Kowa Seiki Wheel Bear ing Remover shown in Figure 8. This set is available from K & L Supply Co., in Santa Clara, CA.
  • Page 286 WHEEL AND TIRES Distance collar (Figure 12) or socket with an outside diame- ter that matches (or is slightly smaller than) the outside diameter of the bearing. Drive the bearing into the bore until it bottoms. b. Repeat substep a and install the left outer bearing.
  • Page 287: Front Wheel

    CHAPTER TEN FRONT WHEEL 1. Front axle 2. Axle clamp bolt 3. Collar 4. Seal 5. Bearing 6. Front wheel 7. Distance collar 8. Hub plate 9. Brake disc bolt is still centered within the bearing, install the Removal axle partway through the hub and center the spacer.
  • Page 288 WHEEL AND TIRES calipers must be disassembled to re seat the caliper pistons, and the brakes must be bled. A wooden block between the brake lever and the han dlebar prevents the accidental appli cation of the brakes. 3. Insert a wooden block between the brake lever and the handlebar grip.
  • Page 289 CHAPTER TEN Installation 1. Make sure the axle and the axle bearing surfaces of the fork sliders are free of burrs and nicks. 2. Lubricate the axle with lithium soap grease. 3. Apply a light coat of lithium soap grease to the lips of the oil seal in one side of the hub (B, Figure 19) and install the collar (A).
  • Page 290 WHEEL AND TIRES on the motorcycle. When replacing the bolts, al- ways use standard Yamaha brake disc bolts. Never compromise and use generic replace- ment bolts. They may not properly secure the disc to the hub. d. Use a small amount of medium-strength threadlocking compound on the brake disc bolts prior to installation.
  • Page 291 CHAPTER TEN 7. Remove the rear axle clamp bolts (B, Figure 23) and pull the rear axle clamp from the swing arm. Notice the dot (Figure 24) on the clamp. The clamp must be reinstalled with the dot facing up. 8.
  • Page 292 WHEEL AND TIRES 3. If removed, install the stepped collar (Figure 31) into the right side of the hub. Make sure the shoul- dered side of the collar faces out. 4. Apply molybdenum disulfide grease to the splines of the driveshaft (Figure 32) and the univer- sal joint (Figure 33).
  • Page 293 CHAPTER TEN REAR HUB 1. Stepped collar 2. Seal 3. Bearing 4. Distance collar 5. Damper 6. Final gear clutch hub 7. O-ring 8. Lockplate 9. Nut 10. Bearing 13. Evenly tighten all the hardware. Torque the pound to the bolts, and torque them to 40 N•m (30 hardware to the following specifications in their ft.-lb.).
  • Page 294 WHEEL AND TIRES 3. Insert the axle through the hub and turn the axle by hand. Each bearing should turn smoothly with- out noise or excessive play. 4. If the rear wheel was not inspected during re- moval, inspect it as described in Wheel Inspection in this chapter.
  • Page 295 CHAPTER TEN b. Install new O-rings. Lubricate the new O-rings with lithium soap grease and install them into the hub. c. Install the clutch hub onto the damper studs and install two new lockplates (B, Figure 36). d. Install and evenly tighten the nuts. e.
  • Page 296 WHEEL AND TIRES spect the rims for cracks, flat spots or dents. Check the spoke holes for cracks or enlargement. Wheel Truing Preliminaries Before checking runout and truing the wheel, note the following: 1. Make sure the wheel bearings are in good condi- tion.
  • Page 297 CHAPTER TEN for example, tighten the spoke(s) on the left of the rim and loosen the opposite spoke(s) on the right. WHEEL RUNOUT NOTE The number of spokes to loosen and tighten will depend on the amount of runout. As a minimum, always adjust two or three spokes in the vicinity of the rim runout.
  • Page 298 WHEEL AND TIRES RADIAL ADJUSTMENT Tighten (high point) Inspection stand Centerline 5. Remove any balance weights mounted on the Loosen wheel. (low point) 6. Give the wheel a spin and let it coast to a stop. Mark the tire at the highest point (12 o’clock). This is the wheel’s lightest point.
  • Page 299 CHAPTER TEN another 1/4 turn, another 1/4 turn, and another to see if the wheel is correctly balanced. 10. Remove the test weight and install the correct weight. a. On wire spoke wheels, firmly crimp the bal- ance weight onto the spoke(s) with a pair of pliers (Figure 48).
  • Page 300 WHEEL AND TIRES tire, prying the bead over the rim with the first tool. Be careful not to pinch the inner tube with the tire irons. 8. When the upper bead is off the rim, remove the nut from the valve stem. Remove the valve from the hole in the rim and remove the tube from the tire (Figure 53).
  • Page 301 CHAPTER TEN 8. Lubricate the upper tire bead and rim with soapy water. 9. Press the upper bead into the rim opposite the valve stem. Pry the bead into the rim on both sides of this initial point with your hands and work around the rim to the valve stem.
  • Page 302 WHEEL AND TIRES 8. Make sure the spoke ends do not protrude from the nipples into the center of the rim. TIRE CHANGING (CAST WHEELS) Tire rim line WARNING Do not install an inner tube inside a tubeless tire. The tube will cause an abnormal heat buildup in the tire.
  • Page 303 CHAPTER TEN Bead breaker ing surface. Breaking the bead seal may require the use of a bead breaker (Figure 61). Do not scratch the inside of the rim or damage the tire bead. 3. Press the entire bead on both sides of the tire into the center of the rim.
  • Page 304 WHEEL AND TIRES 7. Starting at the side opposite the valve stem, press the upper bead into the rim (Figure 66). Pry the bead into the rim on both sides of the initial point with a tire tool, working around the rim to the valve (Figure 67).
  • Page 305 CHAPTER TEN Table 1 WHEEL SPECIFICATIONS Wheel size Front XVS1100 18 × 2.15 XVS1100A 16 × 3.00 Rear 15M/C × MT4.50 Wheel runout service limit Axial 0.5 mm (0.02 in.) Radial 1.0 mm (0.04 in.) Brake disc deflection 0.15 mm (0.006 in.) Table 2 TIRE SPECIFICATIONS XVS1100 models Front tire size...
  • Page 306: Wheel And Tires

    WHEEL AND TIRES Table 4 WHEEL TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS Item N•m in.-lb. ft.-lb. Brake disc bolts* – Brake hose holder bolt – Final gear clutch hub nuts – Final gearcase bolts – Front brake caliper mounting bolt – Front caliper retaining bolt 1999-on XVS1100 models –...
  • Page 307: Front Suspension

    CHAPTER ELEVEN FRONT SUSPENSION AND STEERING This chapter described the service procedures for Removal (Fork Leg Will Not Be Serviced) the handlebar, front fork and steering components. Refer to Figure 1 or Figure 2. When inspecting components, compare any mea- surements to the specifications in the tables at the NOTE end of this chapter.
  • Page 308 FRONT SUSPENSION AND STEERING FORK ASSEMBLY (XVS1100 MODELS) 1. Clamp bolt 2. Upper fork bridge 3. Lower fork bridge 4. Front turn signal 5. Front fender 6. Fender bolt 7. Fork leg 8. Fork leg protector 9. Washer 10. Collar 11.
  • Page 309 CHAPTER ELEVEN FORK ASSEMBLY (XVS1100A MODELS) 1. Upper fork bridge/handlebar assembly 2. Clamp bolt 3. Upper fork cover 4. Upper fork cover spacer 5. Upper fork cover washer 6. Lower fork bridge 7. Front fender 8. Lower fork cover 9. Fender bolt 10.
  • Page 310 FRONT SUSPENSION AND STEERING Upper fork bridge Fork tube leg must be reinstalled to the same height during as- sembly. 5A. On XVS1100 models, perform the following: a. Loosen the front flasher clamp bolt. NOTE A single clamp bolt is used on each side of the lower fork bridge on XVS1100 models.
  • Page 311 CHAPTER ELEVEN brake master cylinder from the handlebar. Suspend the master cylinder from the motor- cycle with a bunjee cord. Keep the master cyl- inder reservoir upright. This prevents brake fluid spills and helps keep air out of the brake system.
  • Page 312 The fork leg Allen bolt can be re (Fork Leg Requires Service) moved without using the damper rod 1. The following Yamaha special tools, or their holder and T handle. However, the Allen bolt cannot be torqued without equivalents, are needed to service a fork leg: these tools.
  • Page 313 CHAPTER ELEVEN 4. On XVS1100A models, remove the fuel tank (Chapter Eight). 5. Note that the top of the fork tube aligns with the top of the upper fork bridge (Figure 3). The fork leg must be reinstalled in this same position. 6.
  • Page 314 FRONT SUSPENSION AND STEERING b. Loosen the upper fork bridge clamp bolt (A, Figure 4) and the lower fork bridge clamp bolt (A, Figure 5). c. Rotate the fork tube (B, Figure 5), and slide it from the upper fork bridge, front turn signal assembly and the lower fork bridge.
  • Page 315 CHAPTER ELEVEN g. Remove the index pin (A, Figure 10), upper fork cover spacer (B) and washer (C). h. Loosen the two clamp bolts (A, Figure 5) on the lower fork bridge. Rotate the fork tube (B, Figure 5), and lower it from the lower fork bridge and the lower fork cover.
  • Page 316 FRONT SUSPENSION AND STEERING NOTE Use a 6 point, 22 mm socket on the cap bolt. A 12 point socket will mar the bolt. 8. If the fork leg was disassembled, torque the cap bolt (C, Figure 4) to 23 N•m (17 ft.-lb.). 9.
  • Page 317 CHAPTER ELEVEN 5. Install the fork tube into the slider until the tube bottoms. 6. Install the Yamaha damper rod holder onto the T-handle. Insert the tool into the fork tube so the rod holder engages the damper rod (Figure 13).
  • Page 318 FRONT SUSPENSION AND STEERING Oil level 12. Wrap the end of the fork tube with plastic wrap. Liberally coat the plastic wrap with fork oil. 13. Lubricate the lips of the oil seal with fork oil and install the oil seal onto the fork tube (C, Figure 20).
  • Page 319 CHAPTER ELEVEN 26. Install the fork cap while pushing down on the spring. Start the bolt slowly; do not cross-thread it. Tighten the fork cap as tightly as possible. The cap bolt will be torqued to specification once the fork is installed on the motorcycle.
  • Page 320 FRONT SUSPENSION AND STEERING a. Open the bushing slot with a screwdriver (Figure 38) and slide the bushing off the fork tube. b. Lubricate the new bushing with fork oil, open its slot and slide it onto the fork tube groove. Copper surface 12.
  • Page 321 CHAPTER ELEVEN provide maximum slack in the cable and disconnect the cable end from the clutch hand lever. 8. Disconnect the electrical lead (C, Figure 40) from the clutch switch. 9. Remove the clutch lever nuts and bolts (D, Fig- ure 40), and remove the clutch lever assembly.
  • Page 322: Steering Head

    FRONT SUSPENSION AND STEERING STEERING HEAD Removal The Yamaha ring nut wrench (part No. YU-33975 or 90890-01403) or an equivalent tool is needed to disassemble and reassemble the steering head. Refer to Figure 45 for this procedure. 1. Securely support the motorcycle on a level sur- face.
  • Page 323: Steering Head

    CHAPTER ELEVEN STEERING HEAD 1. Cap 2. Bolt 3. Upper handlebar holder 4. Lower handlebar holder 5. Washer 6. Damper 7. Cable holder 8. Nut 9. Steering head nut 10. Upper fork bridge 11. Lockwasher 12. Locking ring nut 13. Adjusting ring nut 14.
  • Page 324 FRONT SUSPENSION AND STEERING 10. Hold onto the lower end of the steering stem as- sembly. 11. Loosen and remove the adjusting ring nut (A, Figure 50) and the bearing cap (B). 12. Remove the upper bearing inner race (A, Fig- ure 51) and the bearing (B) from the steering head.
  • Page 325 CHAPTER ELEVEN Installation 1. Liberally apply lithium soap grease to the bear- ings and races. 2. Install a new dust seal and the lower bearing onto the steering stem. 3. Carefully slide the steering stem up through the Torque wrench frame steering head (Figure 52).
  • Page 326 FRONT SUSPENSION AND STEERING 4. Check the welds around the steering head for cracks and fractures. If there is any damage, have the frame repaired at a competent frame or welding shop. 5. Check the bearings for pitting, scratches or dis- coloration indicating wear or corrosion.
  • Page 327 CHAPTER ELEVEN Stem nut Steering stem Chisel Wood Dust seal and bottom race block Race Head tube 4. Clean the race seats in the steering head. Check for cracks or other damage. 5. Apply grease to a new upper race and insert the race into the steering head with the open side facing out.