Wiring The Hot End - SeeMeCNC Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Manual

Before we start the wiring process, I want you to wrap the heater block of the hot end with a
few loops of Kapton tape. This will help prevent the thermistor from being pulled out of the hot end if
the wiring were to snag on something. If the thermistor comes out of the hot end while it's powered up,
the PEEK section (the tan part) of the hot end WILL BE DESTROYED when the hot end temperature
exceeds 247 degrees Celsius. The reason this happens is due to the firmware on the controller trying to
get the hot end to it's target temperature based on a thermistor input that is no longer close enough to
the heater block to return a reliable reading.
Fig. 11-6: Heater block wrapped in Kapton.

Wiring the Hot End

For this task, you'll need the completed hot end and two 22-16ga un-insulated crimp connectors.
Using a pair of needle nosed pliers, bend the resistor leads as shown in the following photos.
Fig. 11-8: Step #1.
Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide
go ahead and throw a loop around the upper hot
section (the aluminum barrel portion). This will act
as a bit of insulation to prevent the PEEK fan from
inadvertently cooling down the hot end while in
operation.
Fig. 11-7: Hot section wrap.
Fig. 11-9: Step #2.
When you've got the heater block wrapped,
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