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Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide – 4thEd. Welcome to the Assembly Guide for the Rostock MAX v2.0 3D printer. Version 4.47, September 28 , 2016 Fourth Edition Copyright 2016 by Gene Buckle Licensed as Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike 3.0 Questions or corrections should be emailed to geneb@deltasoft.com...
Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide – 4thEd. Read Me First! This document is your instruction manual for your new SeeMeCNC® 3D printer machine. Before using your new 3D printer, thoroughly read and understand this manual for safe and effective operation of the machine.
Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide – 4thEd. Table of Contents READ ME FIRST!.............................2 0 – Introduction and Acknowledgments....................5 1 – Required Tools And Materials......................6 Tools..............................6 Additional Materials.........................7 2 – Visual Bill of Materials........................9 3 – Preparing the Hot End and Power Supply..................28 3.1 –...
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Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide – 4thEd. 9.2 – Installing the End Stop Screws....................82 9.3 – Installing the Drive Belts and Carriages................82 9.4 – Assembling the Carriage Spring Arms..................84 9.5 – Installing the Carriages on the Towers..................86 9.6 – Attaching the Belts to the Carriage..................87 9.7 –...
3D printers. I'd also like to thank the whole gang over at the SeeMeCNC forums for providing excellent feedback. This would be a much lesser creation without their contributions and insights. 0 – Introduction and Acknowledgments – 5...
Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide – 4thEd. 1 – Required Tools And Materials Before you begin assembly of your Rostock MAX v2, please make sure you’ve got everything on the following list of tools and additional materials. Tools • P1 & P2 sized Phillips screwdrivers •...
Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide – 4thEd. • 5/16” open-ended wrench. • 11/16” open-ended wrench (used for hot-end mount) • A digital caliper. These can be purchased from Harbor Freight tools for around $10. • A small squeeze clamp that can open at least 6” •...
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Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide – 4thEd. The following is a list of optional things that can make your life easier in the long run. • Electrician's tape. • Standard sized nylon wire ties. • Waxed lacing cord. You can use this in place of wire ties in pretty much any application. You can find it here: http://www.skygeek.com/wht-string.html.
Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide – 4thEd. 2 – Visual Bill of Materials The Rostock MAX v2 kit shipping box should contain the following items: • Four Melamine laser cut part sheets. (3 full, 1 partial) [84301] • 1 Smoked Acrylic Parts Package [84302] •...
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Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide – 4thEd. The Melamine parts are covered with a special cutting mask that prevents the laser cutting operation from depositing cutting byproducts on the Melamine surface. Leave this protective covering on the parts until you need them. This will save you the laborious task of stripping all the masking tape off before the build.
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It's better to find out before hand than being forced to stop the assembly process due to a missing part. If you are missing any parts, please contact support@seemecnc.com with the subject line of “Missing Parts!”.
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Let's go ahead and do an inventory of the parts to ensure that you're not missing anything! Please check off each item as you locate it. Where possible, I'll include the SeeMeCNC part number enclosed in square brackets. Quantities are surrounded by parentheses.
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Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide – 4thEd. [___] (42) #6-32 Stainless Steel Nylon Lock Nut – covers all #6-32 screws. [30164] [___] (12) #6-32, 1/2” 18-8 Stainless Steel Flathead screw. Used inside of base and top side plates, to retain acrylic panels and the three end-stop triggering screws installed in the Cheapskate U-Joint mounts.
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Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide – 4thEd. [___] (14) #2-56, 5/8” Pan Head Phillips Machine screws. Used for LCD mounting and end-stop switch mounting. [30650] (Combined Package) [___] (14) 2-56 Finish Nuts. Used for LCD mounting and end-stop switch mounting. [30642] (Combined Package) [___] (8) #4, 3/8”...
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Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide – 4thEd. Rostock MAX v2 Hardware Pack #2, Rev 3 [84380] [___] (12) Small Wire Ties. Used for wire management or Barbie Handcuffs. Your call. [___] (1) GT2 2mm pitch belt pulley pack. Includes six grub screws and hex wrench.
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Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide – 4thEd. [___] (9) Pulley Bearing Cover for R4 Bearings. [39756] [___] (18) R4 Bearing Standoffs [39757] 2 – Visual Bill of Materials – 16...
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Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide – 4thEd. Rostock MAX v2 Electronics and Hardware Pack #3, Rev 3 [84376] [___] (1) RAMBo Electronic Control Board with screw terminals and end stop wires. [26710] [___] (1) USB Cable. [26708] [___] (1) Onyx Heated Bed Sub-Assembly Pack [58770] [___] (1) LCD Smart Controller with SD card, LCD to RAMBo Adapter Kit and 1 Soft Touch 5mm knob.
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Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide – 4thEd. [___] 10 feet, 22ga, 4 conductor wire. Used to extend wiring for extruder motor. [26722] [___] 15 feet, 26ga, Black & Red wire. Used for hot end PEEK and part fans. [26728, 26726] (Supplied as 30ft) [___] 4 feet, 3/8”...
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Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide – 4thEd. [___] (1) 30x30x10mm 12VDC fan. Used for part cooling. [26171] This fan is installed after you print the layer cooling fan shroud, as covered in the User Guide. [___] 8 feet, 18ga Red wire & 8 feet, 18ga Black wire. [26724, 26723] [___] 15 feet, 26ga White wire.
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Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide – 4thEd. Rostock MAX v2 Hardware Pack #4, Rev 3 [84375] [___] (2) 18awg, 2” Red [84310] Jumper for RAMBo terminal block. [___] (2) 18awg, 2” Black [84311] Jumper for RAMBo terminal block. [___] (1) 12awg, 14” Red [84312] PSU to RAMBo [___] (1) 12awg, 14”...
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Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide – 4thEd. [___] (1) UL Warning Label for AC Power [45801] [___] (1) Rocker Switch, Black Round [26175] [___] (4) M4 x 16mm Pan Head Screw. Used for power supply mounting. [30102] [___] (4) M4 Flat Washer [30103] [___] (1) 60mm x 60mm x 25mm fan [26310] [___] (5) Spade Terminal Red Insulated for 18-22awg [26174] [___] (5) Ring Terminal Red Insulated for #8 Stud and 18awg [26179]...
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Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide – 4thEd. [___] (2) Ring Terminal Yellow for #8 stud and 12awg [26178] 2 – Visual Bill of Materials – 22...
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Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide – 4thEd. Smoked Acrylic Parts Pack [___] 1 each, Smoked Acrylic parts pack. Includes, LCD face, LCD sides (left & right), base and top covers. Miscellaneous Parts [___] (1) 300mm x 3mm Borosilicate Glass Build Plate. Used with Onyx Heated Bed.
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Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide – 4thEd. Carriage Parts Pack [70849] [___] (15) #4 Pan Head Phillips x 1/2” Sheet metal screws [30249] [___] (3) Outer Carriage Half [70851] [___] (3) Inner Carriage Half [70852] [___] (6) #4 Flat Washers [30449] 2 –...
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Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide – 4thEd. [___] (6) Belt Clips for Injection Molded Carriages [70859] [___] (12) R4ZZ 1/4”ID x 5/8”OD x 0.196W Ball Bearings [35008] [___] (24) R4 Bearing Sleeves (Color may vary) [87941] [___] (3) Inner Spring Arms for Injection Molded Carriage [70854] [___] (3) Outer Spring Arms for Injection Molded Carriage [70853] [___] (3) 4-40 x 3/8”...
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Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide – 4thEd. IM Arm / Platform Sub-Assembly [70861] [___] (6) 290.8mm Ball Joint Arm for IM Carriage/Platform [70856] [___] (6) Ball Joints for IM Carriage/Platform [70855] [___] (3) Hot end Platform Spacer (Machined Aluminum) [68334] [___] (6) Tension Spring for IM Ball Joint Arms [70860 [___] (3) #6-32 x 1.75”...
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Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide – 4thEd. [___] (6) #4 Flat Washer (Stainless) [30449] [___] (1) Ball Joint Platform [70857] [___] (1) Hot End Adapter, for the Ball Joint Platform [70862] This component is included on Sheet #4. 2 – Visual Bill of Materials – 27...
Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide – 4thEd. 3 – Preparing the Hot End and Power Supply 3.1 – Preparing the Hot End For this task, you'll need the following components: Hot End Pack You'll also need the Permatex Copper RTV sealant as well as a few toothpicks. The hot end for your Rostock MAX v2 3D printer uses Permatex Ultra Copper RTV to hold both the heating resistors and the temperature sensor (the thermistor) in place.
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Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide – 4thEd. For this step, you'll need the parts out of the hot end pack. This includes the hot end itself, the two heating resistors and the tiny pack with the thermistor and it's PTFE tubing. Fig.
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Don't be surprised if your application of RTV is not nearly as neat as shown above. These hot end assembly photos were shot by Andy Oprisko, a SeeMeCNC employee. He's literally built hundreds of hot ends and is very, very good at it.
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Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide – 4thEd. Take the short length of 1mm diameter PTFE tubing from the thermistor package and cut it in half. Trim each half so it's about 1-1/4” long. Remove the thermistor from the paper protector (aka The Post-It! Of Shielding) and slide the a PTFE tube on to each of the thermistor leads as shown below.
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Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide – 4thEd. Fig. 3.1-9: Thermistor installed. Fig. 3.1-10: Hot end plugged into the cardboard box for curing. 3 – Preparing the Hot End and Power Supply – 32...
Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide – 4thEd. 3.2 – Preparing the Power Supply For this task, you'll need these components: Your Rostock MAX v2 uses a 12 volt, 29 amp industrial power supply to provide power to the RAMBo controller, the Onyx heated bed and the hot-end. The power supply won't be installed until a later step, but there's some prep work that you can do now.
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Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide – 4thEd. First, we're going to start by wiring up the RAMBo power connector. Grab the two 3”, 18ga red wires and insert them into the screw terminals in the RAMBo power connector as shown. You'll need a small flat tip screwdriver in order to tighten down the terminals.
Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide – 4thEd. Now take one of the red and one of the black 12ga wires and insert them into the terminal block. Insert the smaller 18ga wire first and THEN the 12ga wire. Just like with the smaller wire, if you can see more than 1/16”...
Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide – 4thEd. Once you've done those, I want you to attach one 22-16awg ring terminal and one 22-16 female spade terminal to each of the 8”, 18ga wires. (Black, White, and Green). Finally, attach two 22-16awg female spade terminals to each end of the last 3”, 18ga black wire. The last task for this section is to attach two 22- 16awg ring terminals to the 60mm fan as shown in Fig.
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Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide – 4thEd. Install the ring terminal end of the black wire to the terminal marked “L”, the white wire on the terminal marked “N” and the green wire on the terminal marked “⏚”. Grab the RAMBo power connector you just finished wiring up and attach the black 12ga wire to the terminal section marked “V-”...
Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide – 4thEd. 4 – Preparing the Onyx Heated Bed For this task, you'll need the following components: Just like the power supply, we're going to do some prep work on the Onyx Heated Bed in advance of actually needing it in the build.
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Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide – 4thEd. Cut off two 3/8” long lengths of PTFE and slip one over each leg of the thermistor. Just like you did with the hot end, carefully bend the end of the thermistor at a 90 degree angle. Fig.
Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide – 4thEd. 4.2 – Installing the Resistor and Power LED Now get the small resistor and LED out of the Onyx parts pack. Bend the resistor leads and set it on the two solder pads marked “RES” as shown below. Once you've got the resistor soldered into place, trim off the excess leads just like you did for the thermistor.
Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide – 4thEd. Once you're done installing the LED, you'll notice that it sticks up past the top surface of the Onyx. The LED needs to be pushed in so that it's flush or slightly below the top surface of the Onyx as shown below. Fig.
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Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide – 4thEd. Soldering the power wires to the Onyx heated bed requires that you increase the temperature of your soldering iron to around 800F if it's adjustable. This is needed because the pad size can draw the heat away nearly as fast as the iron can provide it.
Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide – 4thEd. 5 – Preparing the Drive Motors For this task, you'll need the following components: Drive Gears Thread locker Three Stepper Motors The stepper motors that are shipped with your Rostock MAX v2 kit are equipped with a “flatted' shaft.
Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide – 4thEd. 6 – Assembling the Base For the following task, you'll need the following parts: Foot Pack 6 – Assembling the Base – 44...
Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide – 4thEd. 6.1 – Installing The Feet The feet on the Rostock MAX v2 are made from a hard plastic “foot” that is held in place by a nylon screw & bolt and is covered with a soft rubber “shoe”. The feet are installed on the bottom of the Base Bottom Plate.
Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide – 4thEd. 6.2 – Installing the Cover Retention Screws & Threading the Panel Holes The 1/2” screws are used to retain the Acrylic side panels that we'll be installing toward the end of the build. Let's get those installed first. Each of the three vertical supports should have one 1/2”...
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Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide – 4thEd. There are two holes on each end of the vertical supports that can take the retaining screws we're cutting threads for. The holes you need to use are the “top” ones. Write “top” on each vertical support plate in the location shown in the figure below and then carefully drive the #10-32 socket head cap screw through the holes closest to the “top”.
Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide – 4thEd. 6.3 – Installing the Vertical Support Retaining Nuts The primary method of assembling the Rostock MAX v2 relies on capturing #6-32 nylon lock nuts in laser cut pockets. When a screw is threaded through a part and into that captured nut, it creates a very simple, strong joint.
(likely) in your computer. The Rostock MAX v1 and many v2s used the ATX power supply and now SeeMeCNC has gone to a much more compact and reliable power supply. The power supply mount has been left in as a structural component.
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Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide – 4thEd. Fig. 6.4-1: Power supply mount and sides in position. Now install a #6-32, 1” long pan head screw into each of the four lower nuts. This attaches the vertical supports to the bottom. Leave them just a little bit loose for now. Leaving them a bit loose will make installing the top a lot easier when we reach that point.
Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide – 4thEd. 6.5 – Installing the Power Supply For this task, you'll need the following components: Before the power supply can be installed, you'll need to install the Terminal Shield. This component helps prevent probing fingers from coming into contact with any of the terminals on the power supply.
Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide – 4thEd. Attach the power supply to the base with four M4x16mm screws and the M4 washers. Make sure that you've got the terminal end of the power supply facing the opening in the vertical support. The screws may appear to be too short, but they will reach! Fig.
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Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide – 4thEd. The first step is to affix the safety decal to the front of the Power Supply Side Panel in the location shown below. Install the IEC power connector using two 1”, #6-32 pan head screws and two #6-32 nylon lock nuts.
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Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide – 4thEd. Once the fan is installed, attach the ring terminals on the fan to the terminal block as shown below. Make sure that the black wire goes to the “V-” section and the red wire goes to the “V+” section.
Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide – 4thEd. 6.7 – Assembling the Tower Supports For this task, you'll need the following components: 3 Steppers with Drive Gears 6 – Assembling the Base – 55...
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Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide – 4thEd. First up, you'll need to insert an R4 bearing into each of the 6 idler bearing sleeves. Note that there is a lip on the inside of the sleeve. The R4 bearing must be pressed all the way in until it rests against that lip.
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Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide – 4thEd. Assemble the next stepper motor mount the same as you did the first one, but assemble the third one mirrored. When you're done, the three mounts should look like the figure below. Fig. 6.7-4: First motor in place. Now install two #6-32 nylon lock nuts into the three tower supports as shown Fig.
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Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide – 4thEd. Now slide an idler bearing on to the spacers, followed by two more spacers. Now you can complete the assembly by fitting a tower support to the two screws. Install a #6-32 nylon lock nut to each screw –...
Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide – 4thEd. 6.8 – Installing the Tower Supports Now let's get the three tower support & motor assemblies attached to the base of the machine. Drop the X and Y axes in as shown below. Install two #6-32, 1” pan head screws into each one, just a bit more than finger tight.
Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide – 4thEd. 6.9 – Installing the Base Top Plate The next task requires the following components: The six t-nuts specified above should come from the Onyx Heated Bed package and not from the t-nuts included in the hardware pack. The next step requires that you open up the Onyx Heated Bed package and remove the included #4-40 T-Nuts.
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Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide – 4thEd. In order to install the top plate on the base you've assembled, you'll need to carefully begin to align the tabs in the three vertical supports and the three tower supports with the notches in the top plate.
Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide – 4thEd. 7 – Installing the Towers & Tower Wiring 7.1 – Running Wire in the Towers For this task, you'll need the following components: 3 Aluminum Towers 18ga & 26ga wire.- “A” 22ga, 4 Conductor Wire 26ga wire, Red &...
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Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide – 4thEd. Inside the gray cable is a very thin, very strong Nylon string. You're going to use this string to split the gray outer jacket of the cable along its full length. Start by carefully removing about 6” worth of the outer jacket by using an X-Acto knife to score the jacket all the way around.
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Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide – 4thEd. At the other end of your fish-wire, fold over about 2” worth and spindle it. This will make the wire end more stiff and will allow it to be pushed through the center of the extrusion more easily. You'll want to flatten that little loop at the end as well.
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Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide – 4thEd. You'll run the end-stop wires through the last extrusion, the Y axis tower. You'll pull these the same way as the others, but take care to not damage the crimp on sockets that are installed on the ends of the end-stop wires. You'll also want to be careful as the sockets enter the hole in the end of the tower extrusion.
Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide – 4thEd. 7.2 – Setting the Towers Now it's time to set each tower in its respective tower support assembly. Note that when you're setting the Y axis tower to make sure that the spade connectors are on the top.
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Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide – 4thEd. Now carefully set the end of the tower in the opening and slide it in. It's a VERY tight fit but do not wiggle it! You want to drive the tower straight down. If you wiggle it front to back too much, you can break the area where it's thin at the corners of the hole.
Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide – 4thEd. 8 – Assembling, Installing, and Wiring the Top Section For this task, you'll need the following components: 8.1 – Prepping the Upper Tower Mounts Before you can install the upper tower mounts, three tower depth stop screws need to be installed as shown below.
Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide – 4thEd. 8.2 – Installing the Upper Tower Mounts When installing the Upper Tower Mounts, make sure that you've got the top plate base oriented so that the laser engraved axis labels are face-up. The The upper tower mounts don't fit in the tower sockets without being a bit clever in the installation process.
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Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide – 4thEd. Now you want to insert one of the tower mount spreader blocks as shown below. The fit is very tight and requires that you spread the mount apart at the very ends to get the first tab of the spreader block set.
Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide – 4thEd. 8.3 – Installing the End Stop Switches For this task, you'll need the following components: The end stop switches can be found in the zip lock baggie included with the RAMBo board. Start the installation by inserting two #2-56, 5/8” pan head screws into the mounting holes on the right side of the over-turned tower mount as shown in Fig.
Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide – 4thEd. 8.4 – Installing the Upper Tower Mounting Hardware For this task, you'll need the following components: Install four ¼-20 button head screws and four T-Slot nut plates into each upper tower support as shown in Fig.
Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide – 4thEd. 8.5 – Installing the Upper Idler Bearings For this task, you'll need the following components. The first thing you'll need to do is insert an R4 bearing into each one of the idler bearing sleeves.
Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide – 4thEd. 8.6 – Attaching the Top Plate Installing the top plate is very simple, but it does take a little patience. Make sure that you've got the machine base turned so that the Z axis is farthest away from you and the X & Y axes are on your left &...
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Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide – 4thEd. Now it's time to get the top plate settled down on the towers. Orient the t-slot nuts so they're pointed vertically. This should allow them to slide into the slots on the tower. We'll start with the Z axis.
Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide – 4thEd. 8.7 – Connecting the End Stop Switches For this task, you'll be routing the end-stop wires to the end-stop switches and connecting them up. At the “front” of each tower there is a small, triangular shaped opening that you're going to pass the end stop switch wires through.
Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide – 4thEd. 8.8 – Routing the wires & binding them. For this task, you'll need seven small wire ties. Before you can tie the wiring down, you'll need to make sure that you've got enough wire pulled through the towers.
Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide – 4thEd. With the wires tied securely to the inside faces of the tower supports, you can move on to tying down the X and Z axis end-stop wires. When I run the wire ties, I route them through the holes as shown in order to keep the head of the wire tie out of sight.
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Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide – 4thEd. When you're done with the four screws at the bottom of the tower, move up to the top and tighten those four, using the same order as you did the bottom. Make sure the top of the tower is in contact with the stop screw! Fig.
Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide – 4thEd. 9 – Assembling & Installing the Carriages & Belts 9.1 – Assembling the Carriage Rollers For this task, you'll need the following components: The carriage rollers are made from two bearing sleeves and a single R4ZZ bearing. You'll need to apply sleeves to all 12 bearings used in this step.
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Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide – 4thEd. As mentioned before, the sleeves have a sharp edge as part of their manufacturing process. This sharp edge needs to be trimmed away using a razor knife. The sharp edges are very easy to remove. Simply cut into the edge and then slowly rotate the bearing while holding your razor knife in place.
Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide – 4thEd. 9.2 – Installing the End Stop Screws For this task, you'll need the following components: Install one #4-40, 3/8” flat head screw into the top of the inner carriage half as shown below. Make sure you drive the screw to the depth indicated by the green line.
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Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide – 4thEd. Take one of the GT2 drive belts and thread it into the notch at the base of the X tower as shown in Fig. 9.3-1. The belt shown below is slightly twisted, but please make sure that the belt teeth face in towards the tower.
Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide – 4thEd. Now thread the belt through tower hole in the base plate. Now you can pull the belt up towards the top and route it between the tower and the top plate opening as shown.
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Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide – 4thEd. The spring arm is easy to assemble, but the small posts are a very tight fit, so be careful when assembling them. Note that each arm half has an “inside” and “outside” to it. Assemble them matching the orientation shown in Fig.
Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide – 4thEd. 9.5 – Installing the Carriages on the Towers The first thing you need to do is install two sleeved R4ZZ bearings and the assembled spring arm into one of the inner carriage halves as shown below. Make sure that you install the spring arm assembly exactly as shown in Fig.
Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide – 4thEd. Fig. 9.5-4: Carriage installed! 9.6 – Attaching the Belts to the Carriage Belt installation on the carriages is accomplished by inserting a pair of belt clamps into the inner carriage half. Each clip “rotates” into place, hinging on a pair of plastic legs. You'll start with the top belt clamp –...
Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide – 4thEd. 9.7 – Installing the Axle Adapters Set one Ball Joint Arm on the two mounting posts on the front face of the IM Carriage as shown below. Next, install two #4 x 1/2” sheet metal screws along with two #4 flat washers to hold the Ball Joint Arm in place.
Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide – 4thEd. 10 – Assembling and Installing the EZStruder Before the EZStruder can be installed, you'll first need to assemble it. 10.1 – Assembling the EZStruder In order to complete this task, you'll need the EZStruder hardware kit. This kit consists of the following components: 1.
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Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide – 4thEd. The filament tensioner includes two mounting screws that are “captured” inside the assembly. Rotate the stepper motor so that the wires are facing up and then set the filament tensioner against the face of the stepper motor and tighten the two screws.
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Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide – 4thEd. You'll also want to rotate the hobbed gear so that the hole for the grub screw is aligned with the little rounded notch that's formed in the body of the filament tensioner. Put a small amount of thread locker on to the grub screw and install &...
Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide – 4thEd. 10.2 – Installing & Mounting the EZStruder For this task, you'll need the assembled EZStruder as well as the following components: Push Fit Connector Stepper Knob 10 – Assembling and Installing the EZStruder – 92...
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Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide – 4thEd. The first thing you'll need to do is install the 1.75” and 2” pan head screws into the filament guide block. The holes for the screws are tight, so you'll need to drive them in with a power screwdriver in order to more easily cut threads into the plastic.
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Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide – 4thEd. Carefully slide the stepper motor through the square opening in the bracket and guide the two screws into their mating holes on the bracket as shown below. The stepper is a tight fit, but it does fit properly once the input angle is taken out of it.
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Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide – 4thEd. Now we can move on to attaching the EZStruder bracket to the top of the printer! Slide the EZStruder bracket support brace on to the EZStruder bracket as shown. Now set the EZStruder bracket into the mounting slots in the top of the printer.
Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide – 4thEd. 10.3 – Wiring the EZStruder Stepper Motor Route the stepper motor wires through the center hole in the top plate. I've laid the machine horizontally to make working on the top end easier. Now you'll want to use a short wire tie to bind the wiring of the stepper motor to the EZStruder bracket as shown below.
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Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide – 4thEd. I would recommend that if you use this splice, you solder the joint before covering it with Kapton tape. You can also use heat shrink tubing if you've got some handy – it's personal preference really. When splicing the wires together, please follow the chart below.
Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide – 4thEd. 11 – Installing the Hot End and Bowden Tube 11.1 – Preparing the Hot End Wiring For this task, you'll need the short length of heat shrink tubing and the 3/8” Black, Expandable Mesh Loom.
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Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide – 4thEd. Using a hair dryer or heat gun, heat the tubing until it conforms to the loom & wires as shown in Fig. 11.1-3. Keep the heat source moving around the tubing as it shrinks to get an even shrink all the way around.
Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide – 4thEd. 11.2 – Hot End Prep Now it's time to prepare the hot end for wiring. By this time, the RTV in your hot end should be fully cured (make sure you've let it cure for at least 24 hours) and it should look like the example in Fig.
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Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide – 4thEd. Using a pair of needle nosed pliers, bend the resistor leads as shown in the following photos. Fig. 11.3-2: Step #2. Fig. 11.3-1: Step #1. The resistor leads on the hot end are too long to used right now.
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Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide – 4thEd. Now strip off about 3/8” from the two 18ga black & red wires coming out of the hot end loom. These will be attached to the crimps you've just installed. Note that it doesn't matter which side you pick for black and which for red.
Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide – 4thEd. 11.4 – Attaching the Hot End to the Hot End Mounting Plate You'll need the following components to complete this task: Please note that all the wiring shown in the following photographs are using the older, 4 conductor 18ga wire.
Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide – 4thEd. Make sure that you've got the hot end oriented as shown in Fig. 11.4-4. The “back end” of the mount needs to remain clear in order to install the PEEK fan later on. Fig.
Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide – 4thEd. 12 – Installing the Effector Platform and Delta Arms 12.1 – Assembling the Effector Platform For this task, you'll need the following components: Do NOT sand or de-burr the ball joint arms or the sockets in the delta arms! Doing so will ruin the fit of the parts! Assembling the effector platform consists of installing three Ball Joint Arms on to the Ball Joint Platform.
Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide – 4thEd. Repeat this task for the other two Ball Joint Arms. Fig. 12.1-3: Completed platform. 12.2 – Installing the Ball-Cup Delta Arms & Effector Platform For this task, you'll need the following components: Before you begin this task I recommend that you move the hot end out of your way by looping it over the Y tower.
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Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide – 4thEd. Next, you'll need a pair of the ball-end tension springs. These springs are used to keep a constant force on the arms so that they won't pop off during operation. They also have the added advantage of making the assembly mechanically “tight”.
Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide – 4thEd. 13 – Installing the Hot End For this task you'll need the following components: Start the installation by inserting a 1.75” pan head screw through the bottom of the platform and then slide a spacer over it as shown. Next, set the hot end on the screw and thread a #6- 32 nylon lock nut on the screw.
Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide – 4thEd. 14 – Finishing the Top End 14.1 – Installing the Spool Holder For this task, you'll need the following components: The first step is going to be installing two #6-32 nylon lock nuts into the spool holder brace as shown in Fig.
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Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide – 4thEd. Now attach the outer spool holder support to the brace using a #6-32, 1” pan head screw as shown to the right. Flip over the assembled spool holder and insert three #6-32 nylon lock nuts into the nut capture pockets. Fig.
For this task, you're going to need the following components: Before we can install the top section vertical supports, we'll need to install two #6-32, 1/2” flat head screws in each one. They need to be installed on the inside face (opposite of the SeeMeCNC logo engraving).
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Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide – 4thEd. Install the top by aligning it as shown in Fig. 14.2- 3 and fitting the tabs from the three vertical supports into the slots in the top. Work your way around the perimeter, doing a bit at a time until it's fully seated.
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Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide – 4thEd. TA DA! Fig. 14.2-6:Yer done. Okay, so I lied. You're not done yet. You're almost done. Checkpoint Video #18 Checkpoint Video #19 14 – Finishing the Top End – 113...
Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide – 4thEd. 15 – Installing the Onyx Heated Bed For this task, you'll need the following components: Onyx screw & spacer pack Assembled Onyx The first thing you'll need to do is move the carriages into their normal operating position. To do this simply slide each carriage up to the top, one at a time.
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Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide – 4thEd. Now rotate the bed support such that the two notches in the “front” of the support is pointed towards the front of the machine. The notches allow the Onyx power LED to clear the support. Get a #4 flat head screw and a spacer from the Onyx parts pack.
Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide – 4thEd. 16 – Assembling & Installing the LCD Panel Mount For this task, you'll need the following components: The LCD control panel can be found wrapped in bubble wrap, inside the clear plastic box marked, “LCD Controller”.
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Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide – 4thEd. Start with the left side first – the narrow end of the support fits into the front panel as shown below. Make sure that you've got the front panel oriented properly – the tab pointed to by the arrow should be pointing down when the front panel his held vertically.
Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide – 4thEd. 16.2 – Installing the LCD Trim Panels For this step, you'll need the following components: Start by peeling the protective cover paper off the left & right acrylic side trim. Install the left trim piece using a #4, 3/8” sheet metal screw as shown below. Install the trim on the right side in the same manner as the left.
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Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide – 4thEd. Flip the LCD control panel over and mark the EXP1 and EXP2 connector positions as shown below. Use a Sharpie or other permanent marker. Fig. 16.2-4: Marked interface cable positions. Put your newly completed LCD controller in a safe place – we'll get back to it soon enough. You should congratulate yourself at this point –...
Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide – 4thEd. 17 – Installing & Connecting the RAMBo Controller 17.1 – Preparing the RAMBo Mounting Plate For this task, you're going to need the following materials: You'll also need two short wire ties in order to attach the fan to the back of the RAMBo mounting plate.
Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide – 4thEd. Install the second wire tie in the upper right mounting hole as shown. Next, install a #4-40 T-Nut into the four corner holes in the RAMBo mount. Fig. 17.1-3: Fan installed. Fig. 17.1-4: Completed RAMBo mount. 17.2 –...
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Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide – 4thEd. Get your soldering iron heating and insert the ends of the fan wires into the two solder pads on the bottom right hand corner of the RAMBo controller as shown. Make sure that you install the wires as shown – the red wire needs to be in the pad marked with the “+”...
Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide – 4thEd. 17.3 – Wire Prep: End Stops For this task, you'll need the following components: The 3 pin latching connectors can be found inside the RAMBo parts baggie (marked “RAMBo v1.3 Kit” or similar). The end stop wires came with female crimp connectors already attached.
Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide – 4thEd. 17.4 – Wire Prep: The Hot End Thermistor Connector For this task, you'll need the following materials: The thermistor leads can be found inside RAMBo parts baggie (marked “RAMBo v1.3 Kit” or similar). The first thing you'll need to do is trim the hot end thermistor and hot end power wires to their working length.
Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide – 4thEd. 17.5 – Wire Prep: The Heated End Thermistor Connector The Onyx heated bed wiring doesn't require a connector to be added, but you should label the wire and loop up the extra. Label the end of the wire “T2 BED THERMISTOR” I'm using a Brady IDPal label tool for my wiring, but a bit of masking tape does the same job.
Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide – 4thEd. 17.7 – Wiring the RAMBo Controller – Terminal Block Note that all wiring should be brought through the center opening in the front (between the X and Y axes) vertical support! First up, let's get the hot end resistors connected to the RAMBo. Bring the wires forward so they exit the front opening of the printer and trim them so there is 6”...
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Poor connections equal high resistance and high resistance equals heat. A LOT of heat. This kind of damage pretty much boils down to user error and SeeMeCNC will charge a $25 fee to repair the board. Gaah! It burns!!! https://youtu.be/71NbODPietg...
Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide – 4thEd. 17.8 – Plugging cabling into the RAMBo Now we're going to plug in the end-stop connectors, the stepper motors, the thermistors and finally the main power connector. I'll keep the photos big so detail is easy to see. First, let's get the end stop wires plugged in.
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Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide – 4thEd. Now bring out the stepper motor wires and connect them into the motor plugs along the bottom edge of the RAMBo controller. Each axis is labeled – make sure you match them up! The position marked “E”...
Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide – 4thEd. 17.9 – Installing the RAMBo Into The Machine Base Now the RAMBo board can be installed into the base of the printer. The RAMBo mounting plate has two curved tabs that fit into slots located on the top plate of the base.
Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide – 4thEd. Once you've got the two tabs on the top of the RAMBo mounting plate fitted into the two slots, you can lift up and the mount will slide into place along the two support legs. The X, Y and Z stepper motor wires can be routed directly under the board –...
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Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide – 4thEd. 04May16 – Note that if your LCD panel has a red or blue PCB, it will connect to the interface board as shown in Figs. 17.10-3B and 17.10-3C. Fig. 17.10-3B: Red or Blue Display PCB Fig.
Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide – 4thEd. 18 – Final Assembly Tasks 18.1 – Attaching the Base Covers & LCD Panel For this task, you'll need the following components: LCD Controller Remember back when you built the base, I had you tap the two “top” holes in each vertical support? Now you get to use them! Install a side cover plate on the “left”...
Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide – 4thEd. Now tilt up the panel and fix it in place using two #10-32 nylon thumbscrews. Fig: 18.1-4: LCD panel installed! 18.2 – Attaching the USB Cable Route the USB cable up through the hole in the front of the machine and install it into the RAMBo as shown: After you've got the USB cable installed, I want you to inspect all the wiring and belt paths to ensure that...
Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide – 4thEd. 18.3 – Installing the Acrylic Cover Panels For this task, you'll need the following components: Bottom Acrylic Panels Top Acrylic Panels Both the top and bottom acrylic panels are covered with a paper protective covering. You'll need to peel this paper off before installing the panels.
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Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide – 4thEd. Fig. 18.3-3: Z Axis cover installed. Now install the “R/L” panels on the X and Y axes as shown below. Make sure you've got the laser engraved “R/L” marking facing inward so it can't be seen once installed. The top acrylic covers are all the same size so you don't have to worry about which one goes where.
Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide – 4thEd. 18.4 – Dem Feet...and the Borosilicate Glass Build Plate! Hopefully you haven't lost the little rubber shoes for the feet, because you need to install them now. Each rubber shoe just presses on over the injection molded foot at each marked location.
Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide – 4thEd. I discovered this issue while working on Orange Menace (my original Rostock MAX v1) recently and thought it was important enough to let new builders know about the potential issue it could cause. Carefully set the Borosilicate glass plate on top of the Onyx and rotate it so that the mark you put on the glass edge aligns with the center screw next to the bed heat LED as shown below.
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Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide – 4thEd. All we know is that he's called Walter “White” MAX! At the beginning of this project, you'd probably questioned your sanity and your ability to get a 3D printer built from a box of funny smelling wooden parts and some bits of plastic and metal. You need to appreciate what you've managed to accomplish here.
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