Page 1 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Welcome to the Assembly Guide for the Rostock MAX v2.0 3D printer. Version 2.53, September 28 , 2016 Second Edition Copyright 2015 by Gene Buckle Licensed as Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike 3.0 Questions or corrections should be emailed to...
Page 2: Read Me First
Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Read Me First! This document is your instruction manual for your new SeeMeCNC® 3D printer machine. Before using your new 3D printer, thoroughly read and understand this manual for safe and effective operation of the machine.
Page 3: Table Of Contents
Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Table of Contents READ ME FIRST!.............................2 0 – Introduction and Acknowledgments....................6 1 – Required Tools And Materials......................8 2 – Visual Bill of Materials........................11 3 – Prepping the Hot End and Power Supply...................28 Preparing the Hot End......................28 Preparing the Power Supply....................33...
Page 4 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Installing the Belt Clamps....................131 Adjusting the Belt Tension....................133 10 – Assembling and Installing the EZStruder..................136 Assembling the EZStruder....................136 Installing & Mounting the EZStruder.................140 Wiring the EZStruder Stepper Motor..................146 11 – Installing the Hot End and Bowden Tube..................149 Preparing the Hot End Wiring.....................149...
Page 5 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Uploading Repetier-Firmware.....................217 The LCD and Front Panel Controls..................219 19 – Installing MatterControl and Calibrating the Printer..............222 Downloading, Installing, and Configuring MatterControl..........222 Initial Function Tests......................229 Optimizing The Temperature Control Algorithms..............234 Setting the Z Height......................238 Adjusting The End-Stops....................239 Verifying Extruder Stepper Operation.................244...
Page 6: Introduction And Acknowledgments
3D printer. Please read this entire guide before you begin assembly of your new Rostock MAX v2! It will help you avoid any unpleasant surprises and will ensure that you’ve got everything you need BEFORE...
Page 7 3D printers. I'd also like to thank the whole gang over at the SeeMeCNC forums for providing excellent feedback. This would be a much lesser creation without their contributions and insights.
Page 8: Required Tools And Materials
Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide 1 – Required Tools And Materials Before you begin assembly of your Rostock MAX v2, please make sure you’ve got everything on the following list of tools and additional materials. • P1 & P2 sized Phillips screwdrivers •...
Page 9 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide • PermaTex Ultra Copper High Temp RTV • A small razor knife like an X-Acto knife. This will be handy for cleaning the flashing off the injection molded parts. • 1/2” wide roll of Kapton tape •...
Page 10 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide The following is a list of optional things that can make your life easier in the long run. • Electrician's tape. • Standard sized nylon wire ties. • Waxed lacing cord. You can use this in place of wire ties in pretty much any application. You can find it here: http://www.skygeek.com/wht-string.html.
Page 11: Visual Bill Of Materials
Fig. 1-1: Shipping box contents. If you're planning on painting your Rostock MAX v2, especially the part edges, you would be well served to carefully trace the outline of each part with a razor knife in order to cut the supporting masking tape.
Page 12 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide The Melamine parts are covered with a special cutting mask that prevents the laser cutting operation from depositing cutting byproducts on the Melamine surface. You'll need to remove all of this material before beginning construction.
Page 13 The large cardboard box contains the hardware & electronic components required to build the Rostock MAX v2. Many are in individual baggies, some are in heat-sealed bag “packs”. As you go through the following Bill of Materials, please count and check off each item. This is important as you don't want to be short a vital part during the build.
Page 14 Let's go ahead and do an inventory of the parts to ensure that you're not missing anything! Please check off each item as you locate it. Where possible, I'll include the SeeMeCNC part number enclosed in square brackets. Quantities are surrounded by parentheses.
Page 15 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide (___) (6) #6-32, 5/8” Socket Head Cap Screws. Used for mounting the U-Joint carrier to the Cheapskate plates. [30006] (___) (12) #6-32, 1-3/4” Phillips Pan Head Stainless Steel screws. Used for 608 idlers in the motor mounts as well as the hot end standoffs.
Page 16 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide (___) (10) #4-40 T-Nuts. Used for belt clamps and RAMBo mounting. [30222] (___) (4) #4-40, 3/4” Phillips Flat Head Machine screws. Used for mounting the RAMBo Controller. [30236] (___) (6) #4-40, 1/2” Stainless Steel Socket Head Cap screws. Used for the belt clamps.
Page 17 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide (___) (18) #6 Stainless Steel Flat washers. Used on the 608 bearings that go in the top & bottom T-Slot rails. [30450] (___) (6) #4 Stainless Steel Flat washers. Used with the belt clamp screws. [30449] (___) (21) 608ZZ Ball Bearings.
Page 18 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Hardware Pack #2 (___) (18) 608 Cheapskate Idler Bearing Spacer. Used for belt idlers. [68340] (___) (12) 608 Cheapskate Carriage Bearing Spacers (black). [68326] (___) (12) 608 Cheapskate Eccentric Bearing Spacers (gray). [68340] (___) (12) Universal Joints (Injection molded Acetal). [68309] (___) (6) 3-1/8”...
Page 19 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Hardware Pack #3 (___) (20) Plastic Bearing Rollers. 4 are used for mounting the RAMBo and six are used for the belt clamps. [71505] (___) (12) Small Wire Ties. Used for wire management or Barbie Handcuffs.
Page 20 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide (___) (1) 15 Tooth Gear. Used for manually operating extruder motor. [71566] (___) (6) Binder Clips. Used to hold the Borosilicate glass build plate to the Onyx heated bed. [58761]...
Page 21 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Rostock MAX v2 Electronics and Hardware Pack #4 (___) (1) RAMBo Electronic Control Board with screw terminals and end stop wires. [84392] (___) (1) USB Cable. (___) (1) Onyx Heated Bed Kit. (___) (1) LCD Smart Controller with SD card, LCD to RAMBo Adapter Kit and 1 Soft Touch 5mm knob.
Page 22 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide (___) (1) 30x30x10mm 12VDC fan. Used for part cooling. (___) (1) 40x40x10mm 12VDC fan. RAMBo cooling fan. (___) 10 feet, 18ga, 4 conductor wire. Used for the hot end power and thermistor. (___) 10 feet, 22ga, 4 conductor wire. Used to extend wiring for extruder motor.
Page 23 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide (___) (24) Bearing Sleeves. Used to cover 608ZZ bearings. (___) (6) Rostock MAX Delta Arms. (___) (1) EZStruder Cold End Kit. Includes stepper motor mounting hardware. (___) (1) Hot End Kit. Includes hot end, heating resistors, thermistor,...
Page 24 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Smoked Acrylic Parts Pack (___) 1 each, Smoked Acrylic parts pack. Includes, LCD face, LCD sides (left & right), base and top covers. Miscellaneous Parts (___) (1) 300mm x 3mm Borosilicate Glass Build Plate. Used with Onyx Heated Bed.
Page 25 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Melamine Parts, Sheet #1...
Page 26 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Melamine Parts, Sheet #2 Melamine Parts, Sheet #3...
Page 27 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Melamine Parts, Sheet #4...
Page 28: Prepping The Hot End And Power Supply
You'll also need the Permatex Copper RTV sealant as well as a few toothpicks. The hot end for your Rostock MAX v2 3D printer uses Permatex Ultra Copper RTV to hold both the heating resistors and the temperature sensor (the thermistor) in place. Because it takes 24 hours for the RTV to set fully, it's a good idea to get that started now.
Page 29 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide For this step, you'll need the parts out of the hot end pack. This includes the hot end itself, the two heating resistors and the tiny pack with the thermistor and it's PTFE tubing. Fig. 3-2: RTV & heating resistor.
Page 30 Don't be surprised if your application of RTV is not nearly as neat as shown above. These hot end assembly photos were shot by Andy Oprisko, a SeeMeCNC employee. He's literally built hundreds of hot ends and is very, very good at it.
Page 31 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Set the hot end aside, with the nozzle pointing up. We're going to prep the thermistor for installation next. Take the short length of PTFE tubing from the thermistor package and cut it in half. Trim each half so it's about 1-1/4”...
Page 32 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide The thermistor should now be installed in the thermistor port on the flatted side of the hot end as shown. Set it aside in a safe place to allow the RTV to cure. Fig. 3-9: Thermistor installed.
Page 33: Preparing The Power Supply
Power Supply Pack Your Rostock MAX v2 uses a standard ATX computer power supply to provide power to the RAMBo controller, the Onyx heated bed and the hot-end. All of these components require 12V DC. The 12V wires on an ATX power supply are yellow. You’ll need four of these for the heated bed power, and one each for the hot-end and motors.
Page 34 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Once you've isolated the green & black wires on the main ATX connector, go ahead and cut them free of the connector as shown below. Fig. 3-12: Wires cut free. Fig. 3-11: Isolating the green & black wires.
Page 35 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Fig. 3-15A: 8 pin connector. Fig. 3-15B: 8 pin connector, split. Cut the connector off, flush with the wires – this gives you the most wire to work with. When you're done, bundle them up and set them aside.
Page 36 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Since we only need four of the six wires that are present on the connector, only cut those four free – leave the other two in place. It saves you the trouble of having to cover them with electrician's or Kapton tape to prevent them from shorting (in the case of the yellow wire).
Page 37 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Before we add the RAMBo connector to the wires we just cut free of the power supply, now would be a good time to neaten up the remaining wiring that won't be used. Using a regular wire tie (you'll need to supply this!) bundle up the unused wiring and then use another to bind the bundle to the power supply as shown below.
Page 38 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Grab the four-pair bundle of wires and strip off about 1/2” of insulation from each wire. When you're done, you should have all eight stripped like so: Now take the four black wires and spindle them into a bundle as shown below in Fig.
Page 39 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide The reason I emphasize “EXACTLY” for the power connector is that if you connect it backwards, the power supply won't notice, but you'll completely destroy the RAMBo controller. I'd recommend bundling the four pair and two pair wire bundles together – it will help act as a strain relief for the four pair going into the compression terminal block, and it looks pretty neat too.
Page 40: Building The Base
Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Set the power supply aside and we'll begin the main construction process! 4 – Building the Base For the following task, you'll need the following parts: Foot Pack Power Supply...
Page 41: Installing The Feet
Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Installing The Feet The feet on the Rostock MAX v2 are made from a hard plastic “foot” that is held in place by a nylon screw & bolt and is covered with a soft rubber “shoe”.
Page 42: Preparing The Vertical Supports
Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Install two feet at each location indicated by the green rectangles in Fig. 4.3 on the previous page. Fig. 4-4: Nut on foot screw. Fig. 4-5: Two feet installed. Preparing the Vertical Supports The vertical supports need to have four #6-32 Nylon lock nuts and two #6-32, 1/2” Stainless Steel flat head screws installed in each one.
Page 43 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Fig. 4-8: Vertical support with retaining screws. Now I need you to locate the #10-32, 5/8” Socket Heat Cap Screw. We're going to use this to cut threads into the vertical support plates. These threaded holes will be used later with nylon thumbscrews to hold cover plates in place.
Page 44 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Fig. 4-10: Marking the top of the part. Fig. 4-11: Drive the screw all the way through.
Page 45 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide The primary method of assembling the Rostock MAX v2 relies on capturing #6-32 nylon lock nuts in laser cut pockets. When a screw is threaded through a part and into that captured nut, it creates a very simple, strong joint.
Page 46 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide When you're done with one of the vertical supports, you should have four nuts installed as shown: Fig. 4-13: All four nuts installed. Go ahead and install the eight remaining nuts in the two vertical supports.
Page 47: Installing The Vertical Supports And Power Supply
Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Installing the Vertical Supports and Power Supply Before the two back vertical supports can be installed, we need to install the power supply on the power supply mounting plate with the four #6-32, 1/2” Nylon pan head screws.
Page 48 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide The power supply base is held in place with the vertical supports that are installed to either side of it. You'll install all three parts at the same time – the fit tolerance is loose enough that they just drop in.
Page 49 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Fig. 4-21: Both sides seated. Now install a #6-32, 1” long pan head screw into each of the four lower nuts. This attaches the vertical supports to the bottom. Leave them just a little bit loose for now. Leaving them a bit loose will make installing the top a lot easier when we reach that point.
Page 50 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide RAMBo support panel legs to the front of the base. Fig. 4-23: Support Legs. Fig. 4-24: Support legs installed. The support legs just rest in place – they're held firmly when the support plate is installed over the top of them.
Page 51: Installing The Drive Gears On The Stepper Motors
Three Stepper Motors Drive Gears The stepper motors that are shipped with your Rostock MAX v2 kit are equipped with a “flatted” shaft. This means that a portion of the drive shaft has been ground flat. This ensures that a properly tightened drive gear won't be able to rotate on the shaft when properly tightened.
Page 52 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Fig. 4-27: Pulley & grub screw aligned. Now get your thread locking compound and dribble a little bit on to the threads. I kind of over- did it, but it'll work just fine. You'll want to use the included Allen wrench to tighten down the grub screw.
Page 53 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Fig. 4-29: Properly installed pulley. Now install the drive pulleys on the other two stepper motors the same you did with this one.
Page 54: Assembling The Tower Supports
Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Assembling the Tower Supports For this task, you'll need the following components: 3 Stepper with Drive Gears...
Page 55 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide First up, you'll need to put together the six belt support bearings by sandwiching each 608ZZ bearing between a pair of the black idler bearing spacers. The idlers are very simple to assemble... Fig. 4-30: Idler bearing components.
Page 56 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Before we can assemble the tower supports, you'll need to do a little prep work on the Stepper Motor Mounts. Each mount will get two #6-32 nuts and one #4, 3/8” pan head machine screw.
Page 57 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Now it's time to get the stepper motors attached to their mounts. Set the Stepper Motor Mount on top of a stepper motor and align the stepper motor as shown in Fig. 4-34 and install it using four of the M3x10mm screws.
Page 58 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Now install two #6-32 nylon lock nuts into the three tower supports as shown below. Fig. 4-37: Tower supports ready to go. Each tower support holds the idler bearing assemblies that you put together. In order to install them, you'll need to add a #6-32 washer to two of the #6-32, 1-3/4”...
Page 59 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Install two of the idler bearing assemblies on the two screws you just inserted and add the tower support plate on top. Add two #6-32 flat washers and two #6-32 Nylon lock nuts and tighten them finger tight.
Page 60 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Now let's get the three tower support & motor assemblies attached to the base of the machine. Drop the X and Y axes in as shown below. Install two #6-32, 1” pan head screws into each one, just a bit more than finger tight.
Page 61 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide The Z axis (in the back of the machine) tower & motor support installs the same way as the other two. The wires for the Z axis stepper motor should be routed through the lower hole in the power supply bracket as shown below.
Page 62: Installing The Base Top Plate
Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Fig. 4-46: All four in place. Checkpoint Video #3: http://youtu.be/HgluRmxKL5Y Installing the Base Top Plate The next task requires the following components: The six t-nuts specified above should come from the Onyx Heated Bed package and not from...
Page 63 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide The next step requires that you open up the Onyx Heated Bed package and remove the included #4-40 T- Nuts. Using Fig. 4-48 below as a guide, flip the top plate upside down and tap in the six t-nuts in the locations circled in green.
Page 64 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide In order to install the top plate on the base you've assembled, you'll need to carefully begin to align the tabs in the three vertical supports and the three tower supports with the notches in the top plate. As you work one section down on to the tabs, install a #6-32 1”...
Page 65: Installing The Onyx Heated Bed
Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Fig. 4-51: Completed Rostock MAX v2 Base. Checkpoint Video #4: http://youtu.be/j2ee-qap4Kw 5 – Installing the Onyx Heated Bed Installing the Thermistor, Power LED and Power Wires For this task you'll need the following components from the Onyx Heated Bed package:...
Page 66 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Thermistor & LED Pack Note that the thermistor pack may contain two resistors and two LEDs. You'll only be using one of each for this build. The additional parts are extras. Before you begin wiring up the Onyx, please place a short length of Kapton tape over the thermistor hole in the center of the heated bed.
Page 67 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Fig. 5-2: PTFE insulators installed. Fig. 5-3: 90 degree bend. As you did with the hot end thermistor, dip the end of the heated bed thermistor into some RTV and insert it in the offset hole in the Onyx as shown below. Make sure you've got your thermistor oriented as shown.
Page 68 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Fig. 5-6: Thermistor taped into place. Next, solder down the leads to the solder pads. Make sure you don't create a solder bridge between the two pads! Use only enough solder to do the job. When you're done, clip off the excess leads.
Page 69 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide The flat side of the LED is the “cathode” or negative (-) side. You want to insert the diode in the holes with the cathode lined up with the square pad as shown below. The silk screen also shows a flatted outline that matches that of the LED base.
Page 70 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Fig. 5-12: ...and trimmed. Once you're done installing the LED, you'll notice that it sticks up past the top surface of the Onyx. The LED needs to be pushed in so it's flush or slightly below the top surface of the Onyx, as shown below.
Page 71 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Lay the resistor down on the bottom of the Onyx as shown and solder into place and trim off the excess leads. Fig. 5-14: Properly bent leads. Fig. 5-15: Ready for soldering! Now grab the 18ga, four conductor wire included in the wiring pack and cut a section 17”...
Page 72 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide aluminum inner jacket. For this task we'll only be using the red & black wires. The other two can be discarded. The red & black wires are going to be soldered to the bottom of the Onyx and will supply power to it.
Page 73 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Now you need to attach the thermistor signal leads. You'll find them in the box that the RAMBo came in. The thermistor signal leads are wrapped up in a bundle and there's two lead pairs there. Each pair has a 2 pin connector on one end.
Page 74 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide The last task to finish off the wiring is to cover all the exposed connections with Kapton tape. This will help insure against any accidental shorts. The tape will also act as a bit of strain relief for the wiring.
Page 75: Mounting The Onyx Heated Bed To The Base
Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Mounting the Onyx Heated Bed to the Base For this task, you'll need the following components: Completed Onyx. In order to mount the Onyx on the base, you'll need to route the power and thermistor signal wires through the center of the “snowflake”...
Page 76 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide The mounting plate has a pair of notches that are designed to accommodate the LED. You need to orient that feature so that it points to the “front” of the machine. Lay the Onyx heated bed on top of the mounting plate and rotate it so the LED is at the front.
Page 77 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Now set the Onyx & mount down so the screw will go through the #1 mounting hole as shown below. Fig. 5-31: First screw in! Tighten the screw a small amount. A half or three-quarter turn should do it. We just want it to...
Page 78 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Fig. 5-32: Screw fastening order. When you've got all six screws loosely installed, carefully take up any extra slack in the Onyx wiring by carefully pulling any extra through the center hole in the base. Tighten the six screws using the order shown in Fig.
Page 79: Installing The Towers & Tower Wiring
& black wires in half so you have two red & black pair of equal length. In the Rostock MAX v2, you'll be routing the hot end, extruder stepper and end stop wiring through the center of the three towers. If you're upgrading a Rostock MAX v1 and using the original towers, please make sure to gently file off any sharp edges on either end of each tower.
Page 80 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Inside each cable is a very thin, very strong Nylon string. You're going to use this string to split the gray outer jacket of the cable along its full length. Strip the 18ga, 4 conductor wire now and we'll get to the 22ga wire in a bit.
Page 81 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide The 18ga, four conductor cable is the first one we're going to use. When you're done stripping it, you should have something like this: Fig. 6-2: 18ga wires. Take one of the aluminum extrusions and thread this wire right through the small channel in the center of the tower.
Page 82 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Pull enough of the 18ga wire so that the end coming out of the “top” comes within about 6” of the “bottom” of the tower. This will give you plenty of room for wiring up the hot end.
Page 83 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Now carefully stuff the wires into the center opening in the tower, while gently pulling on the bare wire coming out the other end of the tower. Fig. 6-6: Getting it started. Fig. 6-7: Done!
Page 84 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Now remove the bare wire and set it aside – we'll use it again next, but first you need to identify and mark each pair of the end stop wires. You can easily identify which wire is which by gently pulling on one end and observing which wire moves.
Page 85 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Now grab the 22ga, four conductor cable and strip the jacket off of it if you haven't already. Fig. 6-10: Identifying the 22ga, 4 conductor wire. Once you've got the 22ga wire stripped out of the outer jacket, you'll want to grab the two pair of red &...
Page 86 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Fig. 6-12: Success! You now need to identify the red & black wire pairs that were routed along with the other wires. Use the same method as used on the end stops and tie a knot in one pair of black & red wires at both ends.
Page 87: Setting The Towers
Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Setting the Towers Now it's time to set each tower in its respective tower support assembly. We're going to start with the Z axis. In order to set the Z axis tower (the one with the 18ga wires!), you'll need to turn the T-Slot nut plates such that they're oriented vertically as shown below.
Page 88 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Next, you're going to thread the wires coming out of the Z axis tower through the square opening in the top of the base that's right over the T-Slot nut plates. Now carefully set the end of the tower in the opening and slide it in. It's a VERY tight fit but do not wiggle it! You want to drive the tower straight down.
Page 89 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Now you can route the Z axis wiring forward through the space on the right of the tower as shown below. Fig. 6-18: Routing the Z axis wires forward. The X and Y towers are set in a similar fashion. The end stop wires in the X axis tower also route through the right side rounded slot as shown.
Page 90 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Now you can set the Y axis tower in to place. Unlike the Z and X axes tower wiring, the Y axis tower wires exit to the left as shown. Fig. 6-21: Y axis wiring route.
Page 91: Assembling, Installing, And Wiring The Top Section
Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide 7 – Assembling, Installing, and Wiring the Top Section For this task, you'll need the following components: When I originally built the printer for this manual, I made a silly mistake. I put the top on backwards.
Page 92: Prepping The Upper Tower Mounts
Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Prepping the Upper Tower Mounts Before you can install the upper tower mounts, three tower depth stop screws need to be installed as shown below. Fig. 7-1: Depth stop screws installed. These screws perform the same function as the ones previously installed in the lower tower...
Page 93: Installing The Upper Tower Mounts
Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Installing the Upper Tower Mounts The upper tower mounts don't fit in the tower sockets without being a bit clever in the installation process. Take two upper tower mounts (make sure the one on your left has a tower depth stop screw installed!) and set them into the tower socket as shown in Fig.
Page 94 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Now you'll rotate the bottom of the right mount so that it's in the position shown in Fig 7.5. Rotate the mount clockwise until the right face of the mount is flush with the right side of the notch.
Page 95 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Now you want to insert one of the tower mount spreader blocks as shown below. The fit is very tight and requires that you spread the mount apart at the very ends to get the first tab of the spreader block set.
Page 96: Installing The End Stop Switches
Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Installing the End Stop Switches For this task, you'll need the following components: The end stop switches can be found in the zip lock baggie included with the RAMBo board. Start the installation by inserting two #2-56, 5/8” pan head screws into the mounting holes on the right side of the over-turned tower mount as shown in Fig.
Page 97 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide When you're finished, the underside of the top plate should look like Fig. 7-13 below. Fig. 7-16: Assembled top plate.
Page 98: Installing The Upper Tower Mounting Hardware
Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Installing the Upper Tower Mounting Hardware For this task, you'll need the following components: Install four ¼-20 button head screws and four T-Slot nut plates into each upper tower support as shown in Fig. 7-17.
Page 99: Installing The Upper Idler Bearings
Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Installing the Upper Idler Bearings For this task, you'll need the following components: First you'll need to put together two idle bearing spacers with one bearing. This is the same task you did for the lower idler bearings.
Page 100: A Little Prep Work Is In Order
Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Thread on a #6-32 nylon lock nut just finger tight – get it to bite into the nylon a bit, but no more. These will be tightened when it's time to tension the belts. Install the other two idler bearings as you did this one.
Page 101: Attaching The Top Plate
Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Attaching the Top Plate Installing the top plate is very simple, but it does take a little patience. Make sure that you've got the machine base turned so that the Z axis is farthest away from you and the X & Y axes are on your left &...
Page 102 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide The Y axis carries the wires needed to drive the extruder stepper motor as well as the two pairs of wires needed to power the PEEK and layer fans. Go ahead and route the stepper motor wires up through the hole just as you did for the end stop wires.
Page 103 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Now it's time to get the top plate settled down on the towers. Orient the t-slot nuts so they're pointed vertically. This should allow them to slide into the slots on the tower. We'll start with the Z axis.
Page 104 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Settle each axis down until all three are down as far as they can go – each will be in contact with the small stop screw on the left side of each tower mount. Fig. 7-31: Fully seated.
Page 105: Connecting The End Stop Switches
Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Connecting the End Stop Switches For this task, you'll be routing the end-stop wires to the end-stop switches and connecting them up. At the “front” of each tower there is a small, triangular shaped opening that you're going to pass the end stop switch wires through.
Page 106 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Fig. 7-35: Z and Y axis end stop switch wire paths. [Top plate is flipped in the photo, but the wire path remains the same!] The figure above shows the Y and Z end stop switch wire paths. The start point for both is the...
Page 107: Routing The Wires & Binding Them
Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Routing the wires & binding them. For this task, you'll need seven small wire ties. Let's pull the four 18ga wires from the Z tower and the four 26ga wires from the Y tower through the center hole in the top plate. Carefully feed 30” of wire as measured from the top plate.
Page 108 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Now route the four 22ga extruder motor wires from the Y axis tower till they touch the center hole. That will give you about 8” of wire from where the wires exit the top of the Y tower to the center of the top plate.
Page 109 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Now we need to get the wires tied down! The axis tie locations consist of two small laser cut slots in the right side of each upper tower mount. A representative example is shown below in Fig. 7- 38.
Page 110 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide There are two tie down points located in a straight line between the X and Z towers. These two points are used to retain the end stop wires that go from the X to the Z tower.
Page 111 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Install another wire tie in the other location and we'll move on to the Z axis. Fig. 7-46: Tying down the hot end wires. Fig. 7-47: Tied in place. Once the Z axis wires are tied out, move on to the Y axis and tie those down as well.
Page 112 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Once the Y axis is done, tie down the end stop wires that run from the X to the Y axis as shown below. The process is the same as what you did for the X – Z end stop wires.
Page 113: Tightening The Towers
Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Tightening the Towers Part of the this process involves making sure that the towers are square to the heated bed. You'll need your small framing square for this task. Before you start, make sure the machine is sitting flat on the table with no wires under the feet, etc.
Page 114 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide To square the tower, you'll need to push or pull the top of the tower in order to get the long arm of the square to contact the bed all the way across. You'll need to offset the angle of the square a bit to keep it off the Kapton tape in the center.
Page 115 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide When you're done with the four screws at the bottom of the tower, move up to the top and tighten those four, using the same order as you did the bottom. Make sure the top of the tower is in contact with the stop screw! Fig.
Page 116: Assembling And Installing The Cheapskate Carriages
Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide 8 – Assembling and Installing the Cheapskate Carriages Assembling the Cheapskate Rollers For this task, you'll need the following components: The Cheapskate rollers are made from two bearing sleeves and a single 608ZZ bearing. You'll need to apply sleeves to all 12 bearings used in this step.
Page 117 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide on the table with the same orientation as before. Lay the bearing into it and press into place. Fig. 8-3: Ready to press home! Fig. 8-4: Assembled bearing. Repeat this process for the remaining 11 608ZZ bearings.
Page 118: Assembling The U-Joint Carriers
Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Assembling the U-Joint Carriers For this task, you'll need the following components: The U-Joint carriage base gets installed on the inside carriage plate by pressing their alignment pins into the holes indicated by the arrows in Fig. 8-6.
Page 119 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Note that these u-joint carriers are an interim design and are simply the original v1 parts that have had the end posts ground off. You may find that the grinding has removed enough material that the alignment pin is no longer able to remain in place.
Page 120 This will give you a consistent start point when it comes time to calibrate the printer when your build is completed. Make sure you install each screw the same way on all three Cheapskates. This will help give you a consistent starting point when you being calibrating your Rostock MAX v2. Fig. 8-11: Proper initial screw depth.
Page 121: Installing The U-Joint Axles
Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Installing the U-Joint Axles For this task, you'll need the following components: Carefully inspect the u-joint axles. Ensure that they're perfectly straight and are free of any scarring. If the axle is bent or badly scarred, contact support@seemecnc.com...
Page 122: Installing The Belt Clip T-Nuts
Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Now take two #4, 3/8” sheet metal screws and install them into the locations shown to hold the axle in place. Fig. 8-15: Axle retaining screws installed. When fully tightened, the #4 screws should be in full contact with the u-joint carrier and should slightly overlap the axle as shown above.
Page 123: Assembling And Installing The Cheapskate Carriages
Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Assembling and Installing the Cheapskate Carriages For this task, you'll need the following components: Each Cheapskate will get two roller bearings with “Standard” plastic spacers and two roller bearings with “Eccentric” spacers. The eccentric spacers are used to correctly adjust the “grip” that the roller bearings have on the towers.
Page 124 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Start assembling the first Cheapskate by inserting four #6-32, 2” pan head screws into the outer plate as shown below. Make sure you keep the same orientation in the photo – you want the eyes “looking”...
Page 125 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Now install the Cheapskate on to the X tower as shown below. Note that I've oriented the bulges on the eccentrics so that they point up. This gives you a good starting point when it comes time to adjust them.
Page 126: Adjusting The Cheapskate Carriages
Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Adjusting the Cheapskate Carriages Once you've gotten all three carriages installed, you'll need to adjust the eccentric spacers in order to tighten the grip of the roller bearings on the aluminum tower. You'll need two 7/16” wrenches in order to make sure that you're adjusting both eccentric spacers at the same time.
Page 127: Installing The Drive Belts
For this task, you're going to need the following components: Installing the drive belts on the Rostock MAX v2 is a lot easier than it was on the Rostock MAX v1 kit. As you can see from the parts list required, the same job is done with fewer parts making for a much simpler installation.
Page 128 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Next, I want you to feed the belt down and under the upper idler and around the top of the GT2 drive gear as shown in Fig. 9-2. Fig. 9-2: Passing under the idler and over the gear.
Page 129 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Now thread the belt through tower hole in the base plate. Next, thread the belt between the outer face of the Cheapskate and the tower as shown below. Fig. 9-4: On our way to the top...
Page 130 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Pull enough belt through so the belt end touches the top of the Onyx. Fig. 9-8: Ready to thread into the Cheapskate. Now you can thread the belt into the Cheapskate. Slide the belt down behind the inner face of the Cheapskate so you can see the end of the belt through the belt guide in the Cheapskate.
Page 131: Installing The Belt Clamps
Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Installing the Belt Clamps Installing the belt clamps is a pretty straightforward task. If you haven't already, lay the machine down on the side you're going to be working on. It makes installing the clip & clip hardware a LOT easier.
Page 132 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Take a plastic roller bearing and a #4 flat washer and set them into place in the exposed notch on the belt clamp. Fig. 9-11: Plastic roller bearing and #4 washer in place. Now insert a #4-40, 1/2” socket head cap screw through the washer & plastic bearing and then tighten with a 3/32”...
Page 133: Adjusting The Belt Tension
Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Repeat this task for the Y and Z axes. Make sure that while you're working with the belts that the lower belt doesn't slip off the GT2 drive gear! You're better off catching and correcting it now than having to take things apart to fix it later! When you're done installing all three belts, trim the “bottom”...
Page 134 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Next, you'll want to set a 5/16” open end wrench on to the idler pulley mount nut as shown. This position will allow you to lift the idler and hold the wrench at the same time.
Page 135 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Now you can lift up a little bit on the screwdriver and tighten the screw using a power screwdriver. Fig. 9-17: Proper tension position. If you lift the idler up so that the screw head is in the same location as shown above when you tighten it, you should have pretty good, but not too much belt tension.
Page 136: Assembling And Installing The Ezstruder
Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide 10 – Assembling and Installing the EZStruder Before the EZStruder can be installed, you'll first need to assemble it. Assembling the EZStruder In order to complete this task, you'll need the EZStruder hardware kit. This kit consists of the following components: 1.
Page 137 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide The filament tensioner includes two mounting screws that are “captured” inside the assembly. Rotate the stepper motor so that the wires are facing up and then set the filament tensioner against the face of the stepper motor and tighten the two screws.
Page 138 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Remove the grub screw from the hobbed gear and set it aside. Press your thumb against the red lever on the filament tensioner and slide the hobbed gear on to the shaft with the hobbed portion closest to the face of the stepper motor.
Page 139 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Now you need to install the filament guide block on to the stepper motor. The filament guide block is installed on to the stepper motor using the two metric screws included in the hardware pack. Using the photo below as a guide, insert the shorter screw in the hole to the right and the longer screw in the hole to the left.
Page 140: Installing & Mounting The Ezstruder
Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Installing & Mounting the EZStruder For this task, you'll need the assembled EZStruder as well as the following components: Push Fit Connector Stepper Knob...
Page 141 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide The first thing you'll need to do is install the 1.75” and 2” pan head screws into the filament guide block. The holes for the screws are tight, so you'll need to drive them in with a power screwdriver in order to more easily cut threads into the plastic.
Page 142 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide To install the EZStruder on to the support bracket, orient the EZStruder and support bracket as shown in Fig. 10-13. Fig. 10-13: Bracket & EZStruder orientation. Carefully slide the stepper motor through the square opening in the bracket and guide the two screws into their mating holes on the bracket as shown below.
Page 143 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Now thread on and tighten two #6-32 nylon lock nuts as shown below. Before you can attach the EZStruder bracket to the printer, you'll need to do a few tasks first. First up, install the stepper motor knob on to the output shaft of the stepper motor.
Page 144 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Slide the EZStruder bracket support brace on to the EZStruder bracket as shown. Fig. 10-19: Support brace installed. Now set the EZStruder bracket into the mounting slots in the top of the printer. It may be easier to do this if you lay the machine down horizontally.
Page 145: Wiring The Ezstruder Stepper Motor
Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Insert two #6-32, 1” pan head screws into the locations shown. They should fit into the nuts in the EZStruder bracket perfectly. Tighten them down and we'll move on to wiring up the stepper motor! Fig.
Page 146 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide As shipped, the stepper motor wires are a lot longer than they need to be. Trim the stepper motor wires so they overlap with the ends of the Y tower fed wires by about 3 inches.
Page 147 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide I would recommend that if you use this splice, you solder the joint before covering it with Kapton tape. You can also use heat shrink tubing if you've got some handy – it's personal preference really.
Page 148: Installing The Hot End And Bowden Tube
Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Fig. 10-28: All four wires done! You'll note that the wires in Fig. 10-29 bend away from the black & white end stop wires on the far right. This is done on purpose. This is done in order to Fig.
Page 149 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Before we begin the task of installing the wire loom, I want to you take a second and tie down the hot end wires. This is an earlier step that was delayed until this point.
Page 150 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Using a hair dryer or heat gun, heat the tubing until it conforms to the loom & wires as shown in Fig. 13-5. Keep the heat source moving around the tubing as it shrinks to get an even shrink all the way around.
Page 151: Wiring The Hot End
Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Before we start the wiring process, I want you to wrap the heater block of the hot end with a few loops of Kapton tape. This will help prevent the thermistor from being pulled out of the hot end if the wiring were to snag on something.
Page 152 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide The resistor leads on the hot end are too long to used right now. In order to trim them to the proper length, place one of the crimp connectors along side the wires and mark the wires just behind the center point of the crimp as shown below.
Page 153 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Now strip off about 3/8” from the two 18ga black & red wires coming out of the hot end loom. These will be attached to the crimps you've just installed. Note that it doesn't matter which side you pick for black and which for red.
Page 154: Attaching The Hot End To The Hot End Mounting Plate
Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide As soon as you finish soldering the white wire to the thermistor lead, cover the joint with Kapton tape. Solder the other thermistor lead to the green wire and also cover it with Kapton. After you've done that, I want you to use more Kapton and tape the two thermistor leads to the power lead feeding the thermistor side of the hot end as shown.
Page 155 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Next, slide the hot end ring spacer over the hot end. Fig. 11-22: Hot end mounting plate. Now fix the hot end in place by re-installing the large retaining nut and tightening it. Fig. 11-23: Spacer installed.
Page 156: Installing The Bowden Tube
Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Finally, re-install the press fit connector at the top of the hot end. Finger tight is sufficient. Fig. 11-27: Press fit connector re-installed. Installing the Bowden Tube For this task you'll need the long PTFE Bowden tube that was included in the Hot End Pack.
Page 157 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Fig. 11-29: Exiting the loom at the top. Pull the tube through the loom until you have enough to insert the end into the press fit connector on the bottom of the EZStruder. Finish by inserting the tube into the hot end's press fit connector.
Page 158: Installing The Effector Platform And Delta Arms
Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Checkpoint Video #15: http://youtu.be/gAEvIQ_FsMQ 12 – Installing the Effector Platform and Delta Arms Assembling the Effector Platform For this task, you'll need the following components:...
Page 159 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Assembling the effector platform consists of inserting the three steel axle rods into the clips on the platform. Fig. 12-1: Inserting an axle. The axle fit on the effector platform is VERY tight. This is by design. Wiggling the axle as you slide it into the retaining tabs can help it fit.
Page 160 A quick note about part orientation – you'll notice in Fig. 12-2 above, you can see “SEEMECNC” printed on the part. This is the bottom of the effector platform. Fig. 12-3 on the right shows the platform “face up”. This is the orientation you'll want to install it when you perform the next task.
Page 161: Installing The Delta Arms
Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Installing the Delta Arms For this task, you'll need the following components: Before installing the delta arms, clean the mold flashing from the inner and outer faces of the arm tips that will come in contact with the u-joints. You can do this easily with an X-Acto knife.
Page 162 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Before you start attaching the delta arms to the Cheapskates, move the hot end out of your way by looping it over the Y tower as shown below. The injection molded u-joints have two small, round marks on one face.
Page 163 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Fig. 12-11: Two arms installed. With two arms on the Cheapskate, you now need to install a retaining clip. The clips slide in from the side, between the “fork” on the end of the delta arm as shown below.
Page 164: Attaching The Effector Platform
Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Fig. 12-15: All six arms installed. Attaching the Effector Platform For this task, you'll need the remaining three retaining clips and the assembled effector platform. The delta arms attach to the effector platform just as they did to the Cheapskates. Take care to make sure the ejector pin marks are facing outward! Fig.
Page 165 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Attaching the delta arms to the effector with the Cheapskates at the bottom will cause the platform to be raised off the bed as shown below. This will make the next task a lot easier.
Page 166: Installing The Hot End
Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide 13 – Installing the Hot End For this task you'll need the following components: You should also have a soft cloth that you can cover the Onyx heated bed with. That way if you accidentally drop a tool during the installation, you won't damage or scratch the bed.
Page 167 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide The reason you're installing the hot end with the nuts on top is that the interior sides of the effector platform can make it problematic to reach the nut when it's close to being tight. This way, you can hold a wrench on to the nut on the top and drive the screw in quickly from the bottom.
Page 168: Finishing The Top End
Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide 14 – Finishing the Top End Installing the Spool Holder For this task, you'll need the following components: The first step is going to be installing two #6-32 nylon lock nuts into the spool holder brace as shown in Fig.
Page 169 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Now install the brace into the inner spool holder support. Make sure you've got the support oriented as I show in the photo. Use a #6-32, 1” pan head screw to fix it in place.
Page 170 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide The spool holder support is attached to the printer's top plate using the three holes highlighted below. Fig. 14-5: Spool holder mounting holes, top view. Hold the spool holder support in place with your left hand while you carefully feed in and finger tighten the three #6-32, 1”...
Page 171 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Fig. 14-8: Spool holder support installed.
Page 172: Installing The Top Plate And Spool Support Arm
For this task, you're going to need the following components: Before we can install the top section vertical supports, we'll need to install two #6-32, 1/2” flat head screws in each one. They need to be installed on the inside face (opposite of the SeeMeCNC logo engraving).
Page 173 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Now you can insert each one of the vertical supports on each “side” of the top. The tolerance for the tabs is VERY tight. If you're unable to get the tabs to seat properly, you can use a “squeeze”...
Page 174 Fig. 14-12: Top set in place... Fig. 14-13: Thumbscrews installed. Congrats! There's one last step to take before the mechanical build of your Rostock MAX v2 3D printer is completed! That's right, you need to install the spool holder IN the mount! Now pay close attention, this is brutally complex.
Page 175 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Now oh so carefully, slide the arms (no, your arms won't fit) into the spool holder as shown. Fig. 14-15:Not your arms. TA DA! Fig. 14-16:Yer done. Okay, so I lied. You're not done yet. You're almost done.
Page 176: Assembling & Installing The Lcd Panel Mount
Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide 15 – Assembling & Installing the LCD Panel Mount For this task, you'll need the following components: The LCD control panel can be found wrapped in bubble wrap, inside the clear plastic box marked, “LCD Controller”.
Page 177 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Start with the left side first – the narrow end of the support fits into the front panel as shown below. Make sure that you've got the front panel oriented properly – the tab pointed to by the arrow should be pointing down when the front panel his held vertically.
Page 178 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Attach the LCD panel to the mount using four #2- 56, 5/8” screws. Fig. 15-6: Ready for screws! Fig. 15-7: First screw going in. Fig. 15-8: Right side done. Fig. 15-9: Left side done. With that done, we can move on to getting the acrylic LCD covers in to place!
Page 179: Installing The Lcd Trim Panels
Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Installing the LCD Trim Panels For this step, you'll need the following components: Start by peeling the protective cover paper off the left & right acrylic side trim. Install the left trim piece using a #4, 3/8” sheet metal screw as shown below.
Page 180 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide screws at the locations shown below. Do not tighten the screws all the way – leave them a few turns loose. Fig. 15-11: Bottom faceplate screws. Next, install two more of the #2-56, 5/8” screws at the top front of the faceplate and tighten.
Page 181 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Fig. 15-13: Marked control cable connections. Put your newly completed LCD controller in a safe place – we'll get back to it soon enough. You should congratulate yourself at this point – the mechanical assembly of your Rostock MAX v2 kit is complete.
Page 182: Installing & Connecting The Rambo Controller
Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide 16 – Installing & Connecting the RAMBo Controller Preparing the RAMBo Mounting Plate For this task, you're going to need the following materials: You'll also need two short wire ties in order to attach the fan to the back of the RAMBo mounting plate.
Page 183 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide as shown below. Now install a #4-40 T-Nut into the four corner holes in the RAMBo mount. Fig. 16-4: Fan installed. Fig. 16-5: T-Nuts installed.
Page 184: Mounting The Rambo Controller
Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Mounting the RAMBo Controller For this task, you'll need the following components: The first thing you'll need to do is get the 40MM fan wires soldered to the RAMBo controller. Start by cutting off the connector at the end of the fan leads and strip off about 1/8” of insulation.
Page 185 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Hold or tape the wires into place and flip the RAMBo controller upside down so you can reach the solder pads on the back side of the board. Solder the leads in place. Fig. 16-9: All done.
Page 186: Wire Prep: End Stops
Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Wire Prep: End Stops For this task, you'll need the following components: The 3 pin latching connectors can be found inside the RAMBo parts baggie (marked “RAMBo v1.3 Kit” or similar). The end stop wires came with female crimp connectors already attached. Each connector has a tiny little metal tab that points slightly away from the connector itself.
Page 187 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Fig. 16-16: Finished end stop connectors. You'll want to bundle up the end- stop wires similarly to how I've done on the right. The X axis end-stop wire should be looped up a little to take up the extra wire it has.
Page 188: Wire Prep: The Hot End Thermistor Connector
Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Wire Prep: The Hot End Thermistor Connector For this task, you'll need the following materials: The thermistor leads can be found inside RAMBo parts baggie (marked “RAMBo v1.3 Kit” or similar). The first thing you'll need to do is trim the hot end thermistor and hot end power wires to their working length.
Page 189: Wire Prep: The Heated End Thermistor Connector
Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Wire Prep: The Heated End Thermistor Connector The Onyx heated bed wiring doesn't require a connector to be added, but you should label the wire and loop up the extra. Label the end of the wire “T2 BED THERMISTOR” I'm using a Brady IDPal label tool for my wiring, but a bit of masking tape does the same job.
Page 190: Wiring The Rambo Controller - Terminal Block
Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide The 4 pin latching connector and crimp sockets are found inside RAMBo parts baggie (marked “RAMBo v1.3 Kit” or similar). This task requires that you crimp four crimp sockets on to the leads coming out of the Y tower from the extruder.
Page 191 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide First up, let's get the hot end resistors connected to the RAMBo. Bring the wires forward so they exit the front opening of the printer and trim them so there is 6” of wire extending past the outside edge of the machine.
Page 192: Plugging Cabling Into The Rambo
Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide will automatically turn off when the hot end temperature falls below 50C. At some point in the future, you may want to install a second hot end. If you do this, you'll need to modify the firmware so you can use the Heat 1 output for a hot end and the Fan 1 output for one or more PEEK fans.
Page 193 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Fig. 16-31: End stops plugged in. Now you can install the thermistor connectors. Remember how I had you label the thermistor leads with “T0” and “T2”? Well there was a method to that particular madness. The thermistor positions on the RAMBo are marked T0 through T3.
Page 194 That means they've got a little locking tab that positively engages a little ledge on the inside of the socket that's on the RAMBo. Sometimes SeeMeCNC has to procure stepper motors from a secondary source. These motors don't have the locking tab feature.
Page 195: Installing The Rambo Into The Machine Base
Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide from the “stock” motors. Later on we'll be making a change to the firmware to account for this difference. Finally, you'll need to plug the big power connector into the side of the RAMBo as shown below.
Page 196: Installing The Power Switch And Lcd Controller Cables
Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Fig. 16-39: Left slot. Fig. 16-38: Right slot. Once you've got the two tabs on the top of the RAMBo mounting plate fitted into the two slots, you can lift up and the mount will slide into place along the two support legs. The X, Y and Z stepper motor wires can be routed directly under the board –...
Page 197 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Install the ribbon cables on the LCD interface board as shown below. Fig. 16-42: "B" Cable installed. Fig. 16-43: "A" Cable installed. Install the LCD interface board on to the RAMBo controller as shown. Wiring has been omitted for clarity.
Page 198 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Make sure that the interface adapter board is properly seated on the RAMBo board – it is possible to set the board down offset one row to the left or right and the LCD will not function.
Page 199: Final Assembly Tasks
Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide “off” position. This is shown below. Fig. 16-48: Ready to install. Finally, insert the switch into the mounting hole and install & tighten the plastic nut you threaded on to the power wires previously. Checkpoint Video #21: http://youtu.be/UGjHWfnrtKE...
Page 200 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Fig. 17-1: Cover plate installed. Now install the “A” and “B” cables on to the back of the LCD controller in the locations you labeled when you first assembled it. Fig. 17-2: LCD controller cables installed.
Page 201: Attaching The Power And Usb Cables
Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Fig. 17-3: LCD controller being installed. Now tilt up the panel and fix it in place using two #10-32 nylon thumbscrews. Fig: 17-4: LCD panel installed! Attaching the Power and USB Cables As shipped, the power supply is set for 115V. If you're in Europe or another country that uses 240V, you'll need to flip the source voltage switch on the power supply so that it reads “240”...
Page 202 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Note that if the switch is set for 115V and you feed it 240, you can expect the rapid, unscheduled dis-assembly of certain critical electronic components inside the power supply. This will likely be accompanied a loud noise and a puff of magic smoke as its released.
Page 203: Installing The Acrylic Cover Panels
Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Fig. 17-7: USB cable routed up through the bottom... Fig. 17-8: ...and inserted into the RAMBo. After you've got the USB cable installed, I want you to inspect all the wiring and belt paths to ensure that there's no interference between the wiring and the belts –...
Page 204 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Bottom Acrylic Panels Top Acrylic Panels Both the top and bottom acrylic panels are covered with a paper protective covering. You'll need to peel this paper off before installing the panels. We'll do the bottom first. Two of the bottom panels are marked “R/L” and are used to cover the X and Y axis spaces.
Page 205 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Now install the “R/L” panels on the X and Y axes as shown below. Make sure you've got the laser engraved “R/L” marking facing inward so it can't be seen once installed. Fig. 17-12: X axis covered.
Page 206: Installing The Borosilicate Glass Build Plate
Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Fig. 17-14: Upper acrylic covers installed. Feet! Hopefully you haven't lost the little rubber shoes for the feet, because you need to install them now. :) Fig. 17-15: Wrestle the feet away from the cat and install them.
Page 207 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Before you set the glass on the Onyx heated bed, I want you to carefully remove the Kapton tape you used to cover the center hole in the bed. Fig. 17-16: Kapton removal. Fig. 17-17: Uncovered thermistor.
Page 208: Smoke Test
Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Carefully set the Borosilicate glass plate on top of the Onyx and rotate it so that the mark you put on the glass edge aligns with the center screw next to the bed heat LED as shown below.
Page 209 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide your wiring in the Rostock MAX v2. Make sure no bare wire is touching any other bare wire, etc. Finally, plug the sucker in and hit the power switch. If everything works as expected, you should here the RAMBo cooling fan (if you listen closely) and the LCD display will display two rows of blocks and no readable text.
Page 210: Driver And Software Installation
Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide 18 – Driver and Software Installation The Rostock MAX v2 does not include the firmware required to operate it. This was a conscious decision by SeeMeCNC to encourage builders to become more proficient in the operation of their new 3D printer.
Page 211 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide The easiest way to find out what port your RAMBo is listening on is to open up the Device Manager and look for the RAMBo entry. In order to discover this bit of information, you'll need to open up Device Manager (right click on My Computer, click “Properties”...
Page 212: Installing The Arduino Ide
The version of the IDE used as of this writing is 1.6.1 Install the Arduino IDE using the downloaded installer. Now you need to download the firmware from SeeMeCNC's github repository. https://github.com/seemecnc/Repetier-091-ROSTOCKMAX/archive/master.zip Unpack the “master.zip” file that you downloaded into a directory where you can keep track of it.
Page 213: Configuring The Arduino Ide
Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Configuring the Arduino IDE Before we can use the IDE to upload the firmware to the RAMBo controller, we need to tell the Arduino IDE what kind of board we have and what communications port it needs to use in order to perform the upload task.
Page 214: Test Upload
Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Test Upload Ok, now that you've got the Arduino IDE configured, we're going to do a quick task that'll do two things. First, it will validate that you've got the Arduino IDE configured properly and that you're able to connect and upload a program to the RAMBo controller.
Page 215 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Turn your Rostock MAX v2 on if you haven't already and then click the Upload icon. When the upload is finished, you should see results similar to that in Fig. 18-6. The “Done uploading” is the status you want. There is no other...
Page 216: Uploading Repetier-Firmware
Click “File”, “Open” and browse to where you unpacked the master.zip file you downloaded from the SeeMeCNC github repository. Select the file “Repeteir.ino” and click the Open button. Fig. 18-7:Opening Repetier.ino Once it's loaded up, the Arduino IDE is going to look something like this:...
Page 217 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide You may see a warning similar to the one shown below. This is strictly an advisory message and won't affect how the firmware works with your Rostock MAX. Compiler advisory message. When the upload has finished the RAMBo will restart and you should see the following display on the LCD: Fig.
Page 218: The Lcd And Front Panel Controls
Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Click on the tab in the Arduino IDE marked “Configuration.h”. At line #701, you should see this text: #define MOTOR_CURRENT {175,175,175,200,0}. Change that line to this: #define MOTOR_CURRENT {155,155,155,165,0} Save your changes and upload the updated firmware to the RAMBo, just like you did in the prior step.
Page 219 Next, it's going to send all three Cheapskates to their “home” positions at the top of the Rostock MAX v2 and then the RAMBo controller will reboot itself. If the printer is really going nuts on you, this is the fastest way to make it behave.
Page 220 Turn the knob either direction and you'll get a display that looks something like this: Fig. 18-12:Activity display. This will tell you at a glance how much time your Rostock MAX v2 has spent printing and how much filament it's used in the process. The time display breaks down into days, hours and minutes.
Page 221: Installing Mattercontrol And Calibrating The Printer
19 – Installing MatterControl and Calibrating the Printer This is the fun part! The Rostock MAX v2 3D printer is very easy to calibrate, but it can take some time and a number of iterations to get it as good as you can. You'll want to take your time here because the better you calibrate the printer, the better it will perform.
Page 222 Note that since you're using the SeeMeCNC customized version of MatterControl, “SeeMeCNC” will be the only option for the make. The model drop-down will contain other models of SeeMeCNC printers as well as “Other” if you'd like to configure MatterControl to use a non- SeeMeCNC printer in the future.
Page 223 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide If for some reason MatterControl cannot “see” the Rostock MAX v2, you may see an error like the one shown below. Fig. 19-5: Oops! If you do get this error, click on the “Manual Configuration” link at the bottom of the dialog box.
Page 224 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide If your port is listed, click on the little circle to select it and then click the “Connect” button at the bottom of the dialog. You should be rewarded with the following dialog: Fig. 19-8: Success! Click the “Done”...
Page 225 MatterControl developers feedback. 7. Advanced Controls – this is where you can manually control your Rostock MAX v2. 8. The Add button will allow you to add objects or G-Code files to the print queue.
Page 226 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide The right half of the MatterControl interface is occupied by a 3D view of your build platform and what objects are currently loaded and ready to print. 1. The 3D and Layer view controls allow you to switch between the 3D view (shown) and the Layer view.
Page 227 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Next, we've got what I call the “Controls” pane. This pane allows you to directly control your printer, change its configuration and change slicer settings. There's a lot going on with this pane, so I'll go into more detail with it as you need to use it as well as in a later chapter.
Page 228: Initial Function Tests
Before the calibration process can begin, we need to perform a test of the end-stop switches to make sure that they're functioning correctly. In order to perform this test, you'll need to be able to directly “talk” to the Rostock MAX v2. Click on the “Configuration” option as shown below. Fig. 19-12: Configuration.
Page 229 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Now we can send the commands necessary to test the end stop switches. It's important that they operate properly as they're used by the printer to determine the “home” position for the three towers. Ensure that the end-stop adjustment screws are not in contact with the switches and then enter “M119”...
Page 230 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide The next task is to make sure that you can “home” the machine. By clicking on the ALL button shown in Fig. 19-17, it should send all three axes up to the end-stop switches. With one finger on the power switch, click that ALL button! If any of the three axes do not head up to the top of the machine, turn off the power immediately! You don't want to do any damage to the machine due to an inverted axis.
Page 231 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Fig. 19-19: Getting some room to move! Close the terminal window and click on the CONTROLS button to return to the control screen. manual travel Fig. 19-20: Manual travel controls.
Page 232 If you accidentally do that, just power the machine off and back on. Click the DISCONNECT button and then hit CONNECT to re-establish communication between the Rostock MAX v2 and MatterControl. You'll need to re-home the machine before you continue experimenting.
Page 233: Optimizing The Temperature Control Algorithms
Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide “200” and press ENTER or click on the SET button that appears when you begin typing in the field. Once you see the “Actual” temperature (“25.0C” above) begin to climb, wait a few seconds and the click the OFF button to turn it off. Perform the same test with the heated bed by setting the target temperature in the Bed Temperature Override to 50.
Page 234 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide (that's what the “S200” is for). It will begin with the entry, “PID Autotune start”. You'll notice that the temperature in the hot end will begin to climb. A few minutes later, you'll start to see more information appear in the log window.
Page 235 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide completed. Change the value to 128 and click on the “Save To EEPROM” button and restart the auto tune process once the hot end has cooled to room temperature. Once the auto tune is completed, the values that you're interested in are the “Kp”, “Ki” and “Kd”...
Page 236: Setting The Z Height
Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Scroll down until you see the fields highlighted in green as shown below in Fig. 19-23. Change the P-gain field to the value you calculated for the average of Kp. Do the same for the I-Gain (Ki) and D-Gain (Kd) values and then click the Save To EEPROM button.
Page 237: Adjusting The End-Stops
When you've reached that point, press the knob to return to the LCD menu and then and select the “Set new Z=0.00” option. This will set the correct Z-Height for your Rostock MAX v2. Adjusting The End-Stops Now we need to calibrate the end stops.
Page 238 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide icon shown on the CONTROLS screen. Fig. 19-29: Starting the Macro editor. This will bring up the Macro Editor, as shown in Fig. 19-30. Click on the “ADD” button to create a new macro. Fig. 19-30: Macro Editor.
Page 239 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide G1 Y90 Z0 G4 S5 G1 X0 Y0 Z0 If you're reading this as a PDF, you can easily copy & paste the G-Code into the editor window. Click the Save button to save the new macro.
Page 240 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide tower, and finally will return to center. You may notice an odd “arc” motion as the nozzle travels from point to point. This is a mathematical phenomenon within the firmware and won't affect your calibration. You can safely ignore it.
Page 241: Verifying Extruder Stepper Operation
Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide You'll want to raise this figure by 0.2. Run the Tower Cal macro after each change to check the effectiveness of the change. If from the center position the nozzle goes up from the glass at all three towers, you'll want to lower the Horizontal Radius by 0.2.
Page 242: Extruder Calibration
Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Watch the knob on the extruder when you click that button. You should see the knob slowly turn counter-clockwise. If it's turning clockwise, you'll have to make a change in the firmware. It's a very simple change and you shouldn't have any problem at all doing it.
Page 243: First Print: Peek Fan Shroud
Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide http://reprap.org/wiki/Triffid_Hunter%27s_Calibration_Guide The other portions of his calibration guide doesn't really apply to the Rostock MAX v2, so it's not necessary to read unless you're simply curious. 20 – First Print: PEEK Fan Shroud For your first (and second!) prints, you're going to need to have ABS filament handy. This is because the PEEK and Layer fan shrouds can be exposed to temperatures that would turn PLA shrouds into a gooey mess.
Page 244 (sometimes thousands!) of tiny slices that are then converted into code that the printer controller can understand. MatterControl contains three slicing “engines”: Slic3r, CuraEngine and MatterSlice. I'm only going to cover the MatterSlice engine configuration for right now. Head over to the SeeMeCNC download area - http://seemecnc.com/pages/downloads and scroll to the bottom of the page –...
Page 245 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Once the Presets Editor opens, simply click on Save to commit the changes you just loaded. This will dismiss the Presets Editor and you can then click Close on the Quality Presets window. Now click on the Toolbox icon for the MATERIAL column.
Page 246 Click in the box that holds the name of the profile and change it to something that's descriptive of the material. Since I'm using a navy blue ABS filament I got from SeeMeCNC, I'm naming this preset “SeeMeCNC Navy Blue ABS 1.75”...
Page 247: Printing The Peek Fan Shroud
Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide field. It may be less than 1.75mm, but shouldn't be any more than 1.8mm. If you have any measurements of 1.8mm or greater on your filament, it may bind in the hot end. In my case, the filament average was 1.72, so that's what I entered.
Page 248: Loading Filament
Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Once the open file dialog opens, navigate to where you unpacked the file. If you downloaded the MatterControl presets file, the PEEK fan shroud file will be found in the “STLs to include” directory. It's called “70766 EZFan Shroud r2.stl”...
Page 249 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Fig. 20-14: Loading filament. Continue to manually feed the filament until it passes through the other push-fit connector on the hot end. Now you'll need to heat the hot end in order to prime it with filament. Once the hot end reaches the target temperature, I want you to start using the manual Extrusion button to feed filament into the hot end.
Page 250: Preparing The Heated Bed
Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide In the figure to the right, you'll see the control panel for the extruder. In order to safely feed the hot end, make sure that you've selected “10” in the settings below the E+ button. Click the E+ button to begin feeding filament through the hot end.
Page 251 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide on the “Start” button. Fig. 20-18: Starting the print job. When you click the Start button, the hot end and the heated bed will begin to heat. The hot end will reach its target temperature first because it has much less mass to heat than the heated bed. The heated bed can take up to 10 minutes or so to reach its target temperature.
Page 252: Installing The Peek Fan And Shroud
I printed. It's got a few defects, mostly due to a slight amount of over- extrusion. As you get more familiar with the Rostock MAX v2 and 3D printing in general, you'll learn how to fix issues like this to get excellent prints!
Page 253 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide It looks like I removed a lot of material, but it's really only about 0.25mm. Take a little off at a time and check for fit each time. You'll eventually reach a point where you can blow on the fan blades and they'll spin without striking the inside wall of the fan frame itself.
Page 254 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Fig. 20-26: Loose screws. (But you knew that, right?) Make sure that the hot end is turned such that the sides of the PEEK fan shroud can go to either side of the hot end body, but not trap a wire between the shroud and the hot end. You do NOT want wires jammed against the hot end by the fan shroud! When you slide the fan shroud into place, the “arms”...
Page 255 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide from the wiring loom as shown below. Take care to ensure that you don't accidentally pinch the power wires between the top of the fan shroud and the bottom surface of the hot end mount!
Page 256: Second Print: Layer Fan Shroud
Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide to the hot end power. You should be able to see the fan running as soon as you start heating the hot end. Do that now to make sure the fan operates. When you run a print job, the PEEK...
Page 257 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide It's specifically designed to mount on the newly redesigned effector platform and the included 30mm squirrel cage fan. Download, extract and load the layer fan model into MatterControl, just as you did for the PEEK fan. The printing parameters are the same. Make sure you've got the same slicing configuration you used as last time and hit the Start button! Fig.
Page 258 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide The effector platform provides three mounting locations for the layer fan. Yes, you can install three of them if you really want. :) With the machine powered off, slide each Cheapskate down to the base of the tower so that your hot end is at the top of a pyramid formed by the three arms.
Page 259 To turn the fan off, just click in the fan speed box and enter “0” followed by ENTER or click on the “Set” button. With the installation of the layer fan, your Rostock MAX v2 is totally complete and you may now...
Page 260 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide printing is called “slicing”. It's a very descriptive term for what is actually happening. In order to print a 3D model, it needs to be converted from a solid object into a series of very thin layers that are in turn converted into G-Code (more on this later).
Page 261 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Click on the SETTINGS link to make sure your display follows (by and large) what you see below. Fig. 22-2: Settings Pane. The first thing I want you to do is click on the Show Help check box that's highlighted by the arrow in the image above.
Page 262 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Here's what the Coarse, Standard, and Fine layer heights look like when printing the little test cube in ABS plastic. Fig. 22-3: Layer height examples. Starting from left to right, the layer heights are 0.1mm, 0.2mm and 0.3mm. You'll notice that the top layer on the 0.1mm print is kind of ratty and torn up.
Page 263 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Create Raft – A raft is essentially what it says, a “raft” of material that your part will print on top of. Rafts are most often used when printing a part that is having bed adhesion problems due to its geometry.
Page 264 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide layer lines that will be at a 30 degree angle when the little cube is laid flat. Support material is generated in such a way that there is just enough of it there to handle the actual print layer that it will be supporting.
Page 265 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Here's what you end up with after removing the support material from your part. As you can see, there's still a little clean up to to be done to the printed cube (on the left). A quick hit with some 220 grit sandpaper will knock the rough edges of the support material down.
Page 266 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Fig. 22-9: Intermediate Settings. Quite a number of new configuration options are accessible under the Intermediate settings level. The first set of options we'll tackle live under the Print heading. Layers/Perimeters – This setting page allows you tweak the layer height just as before when in Simple mode, but now adds the Perimeters setting.
Page 267 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Lines #1 Concentric Grid Triangles Lines #2 The Lines infill pattern differ from the others in that the line orientation is alternated every other layer. All the examples show a 20% infill density. You're probably wondering which infill pattern is “best”. I wish I could go into that, but I've been unable to locate any studies that cover the topic in any depth.
Page 268 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide The GRID pattern (below) uses the same spacing as the LINES option, but is designed to provide more support where it may help to provide a better end result. The next new category exposed by the Intermediate setting is called Filament. Under the Intermediate setting, the only option is Filament.
Page 269 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide MatterControl – material profiles! You'll notice a little pencil icon next to the material drop down Fig. 22-12: Material Editor. Click on that to bring up the preset manager. The Material Presets list shows you what pre-configured material settings you've got available to you.
Page 270 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide below. The Edit Preset: field is where you can name this new material configuration. In this example, I've named it after the vendor, the material color and the date I purchased the material. Since this is the first time I've used this material, the only thing I know for sure is what the average filament diameter is.
Page 271 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Clicking on the button will open up the materials editor and allow you to change the temperature. It's as simple as that! The last new category exposed by the Intermediate mode is called Printer. This category deals with the physical properties of the printer itself.
Page 272 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide presets can store identical settings. They're split into two categories in order to make it easier for you to group common settings together. You will typically store things that directly affect the print quality of your model in the QUALITY presets. Things like layer height, print speed, etc. MATERIAL presets should only contain those settings that directly deal with the material you're using to print the current object with.
Page 273 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide little house icon control “homing” of the movement axes in the Rostock MAX. Because the Rostock MAX is a delta configuration printer, the only buttons active are the ALL and Z buttons – they perform the same action.
Page 274 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide them up into your print queue. To load a file into MatterControl, make sure you're on the Print Queue page and click the Add button at the bottom right hand corner of the window. Fig. 23-1: Adding an object to the print queue.
Page 275 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Fig. 23-2: Editing an object. Click on the Edit button as shown above. This will modify the 3D View so the edit controls are visible. Click on the Scale button to access the scaling controls. As you can see, I changed the value to .75 or...
Page 276 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide This will allow you to save the object under a different name if you don't want to over-write the original. Fig. 23-4: Saving the scaled object. Before we start this print, let's take a second to examine a feature of MatterControl – the Layer View.
Page 277 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Fig. 23-5: The Layer View. When it finishes, the layer view will display the first layer of your print job. You'll notice right off the skirt that I covered previously. It's important to make sure that the hot...
Page 278 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Fig. 23-6: First layer. The controls will show you how many layers are on this object as well as what the layer number is that you're currently viewing. You can navigate forward and backward through the layers by using the >>...
Page 279 Note that this will NOT calibrate a delta printer! What it can do is help improve first layer performance on an already calibrated printer. SeeMeCNC has put together a nice video that illustrates the process quite effectively: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z6ymbr-AMew...
Page 280 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide The EEPROM Settings configuration option will allow you to edit firmware parameters that are stored on the controller inside your Orion. Please take special care when changing EEPROM values. An improperly set configuration parameter can cause your Orion to misbehave. Sometimes rather dramatically.
Page 281 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide You'll notice that the display will scroll as new information comes in from the Orion. This is how MatterControl is able to continually update things like the temperature displays. In order to be able to use the terminal for basic tasks, you'll need to click on the Filter Output check box that's at the upper left corner of the window.
Page 282 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Notification Feed configuration option allows you to choose which type of release you want to be notified about when there's an update. Stable releases are tested and generally recommended for all users. The Beta release level represents versions of MatterControl that are in a pre-release state, but testing is ongoing.
Page 283 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide 25 – Advanced MatterControl: Settings - Print MatterControl offers three “classes” of settings that have a direct effect on how your printer works. Print covers elements that relate to how the plastic is laid down. Filament covers parameters specific to the type of filament that you've chosen to print with.
Page 284 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Fig. 25-1: Print layers & perimeters. The first parameter is Layer Height. We've covered this one before, but I wanted to point out something that I didn't go into a lot of detail about earlier. You'll notice that the field has a yellowish highlight to it.
Page 285 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide The First Layer Height parameter allows you to set the thickness of your first layer. Having a thicker first layer will help provide a good base to build the rest of the part on as the thicker (and thus wider extrusion) will help improve the adhesion to the bed.
Page 286 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Spiral Vase mode allows you to print things like vases or other open top, single-wall objects in one continuous layer. What happens is that instead of the slicer raising the nozzle up a full layer height for each new layer, it gradually increases the Z height as the print progresses.
Page 287 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Now if you change the starting angle to 45 degrees, you'll end up with an infill pattern that looks like the example below. Fig. 25-2: Grid infill. Fig. 25-3: Grid @ 45 degrees. Note that changing the starting angle will also change the angle in which the top and bottom layers are printed.
Page 288 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide The Speed page covers parameters that control how fast various features of the object are printed. The speeds are listed in mm per second, or as a percentage of a related speed parameter. The speed parameters are pretty self- explanatory, especially if you've got the Show Help check box set.
Page 289 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide The last bit about speed settings I want to cover is the first layer speed. You'll see that it's really slow. The reason for this is that while hot plastic loves to stick to hot plastic, hot plastic doesn't like sticking to other things as much.
Page 290 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide when it's finished. As mentioned in the help text, a good air gap is one half the diameter of the nozzle. For example, if your nozzle is 0.5mm, you'd want an air gap of 0.25mm.
Page 291 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide the extrusion width. This means that each new layer has a solid foundation to adhere to as it's being applied. As you can see when your angle increases to 45 degrees, each layer has much less surface area to adhere to as you print.
Page 292 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Interface Layers allows you to specify solid layers interspersed with the support material. This comes in handy when using multiple extruders. For example, if you're printing a part in PLA with lots of support, you can generate all the support with PLA, and then have 5 or 6 interface layers of PVA (a water soluble filament).
Page 293 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide some cases can cause the slicing operation to fail. The Repair option is MatterSlice's attempt to help fix these issues if they're detected. On the Output Options page is a single parameter, Center On Bed. This will automatically center the model on the print bed when you load it.
Page 294 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide 26 – Advanced MatterControl: Settings - Filament The Filament tab allows you to change parameters that deal with the current filament you're printing with. The Filament page is divided into three categories; Filament, Temperature, and...
Page 295 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide The filament Diameter parameter tells the slicing engine the size of the material you're printing with. When starting a new roll of material, you should pull off about 2 meters of material and check it in 10 spots along the length using a digital caliper.
Page 296 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Length on Move specifies how much filament will be backed out of the hot end during a non- printing move. Length on Tool Change is specific to multi-extruder systems. If the slicer is changing to a new extruder, it will retract the material out of the current hot end by this much.
Page 297 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide depending on the location being printed. For larger parts, the slicing engine may run the fan more slowly than it would for smaller parts. Bridging Fan Speed covers the speed that the fan should run at when the slicer is creating a filament bridge.
Page 298 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide The Bed Size fields cover the width and length of the bed. Since the Orion has a round bed, you'll see that both figures are the same, the Print Center has been set to 0,0 (the center of the circle) and the Bed Shape has been set to circular.
Page 299 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide The next page is called Custom G-Code and allows you to customize the code sent for five different print events. Unless you're familiar with what the listed G and M codes do, please don't modify the defaults shown.
Page 300 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide The last feature I'd like to cover can be found here: The Options control allows you to import and export configurations. This can be handy when you want to share your slicing engine settings with others, or import settings from other sources.
Page 301 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Fig. 28-1: The 3D View. The 3D View will allow you to view your model in pretty much any orientation you'd like. The view orientation is controlled one of two ways. You can select one of the movement icons in conjunction with the left mouse button.
Page 302 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide bed. To give you an idea of how this works in practice, head over to Repables and grab the “Ignite Michiana” object – http://repables.com/r/146/. MatterControl is pretty smart – you don't have to extract the STL file from the ZIP file. Click on Insert and navigate to where you saved the downloaded zip file and select it.
Page 303 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide In order to move an object around manually, you'll need to make sure that the “picker” icon has been selected. Once you've clicked on that icon, you'll be able to move the parts any where you like. However, be aware that the software will allow you to move the objects outside the confines of the virtual bed and they will not be printable outside of those limits.
Page 304 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Cancel will discard any changes you've made so far and Save will allow you to save the state of the virtual print surface. Saving your work saves it to the print queue. If you'd like to save your work...
Page 305 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide The Ratio field allows you to shrink or grow an entire model by a specific percentage. For example, if you were to change the Ratio from 1 to 1.5, you'd see this: Become this: The scaling operation made the cube 150% larger than the original. The X, Y, and Z fields allow you to specify exact dimensions.
Page 306 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide I find that the Outlines display option is the most useful as it makes part details really stand out. Shaded Polygons Outlines Layer View is where you can exactly what the Orion is going to...
Page 307 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Along the right side of the display, you'll see a printing time estimate as well as an estimate of how much filament will be required to print the two parts shown. There are two “scroll” bars shown in the Layer View. The bar along the bottom will show progress of the current layer, while the vertical bar will show layers.
Page 308 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Grid hides or displays the virtual print surface. Moves will show you the path the print head takes when it's not printing, as shown by the light green lines in the image below. Fig. 28-7: Travel moves.
Page 309 Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide The Extrusion option will thicken the lines used to draw the layers in order to give a more accurate visual representation of what the actual print layer will look like when printed. Finally, Sync to Print will allow you to follow the print process using the Layer View. As the...
Page 310: Appendix A: Maintenance And Troubleshooting
1. Check the condition of your drive belts to insure they’re not getting worn out or rubbing on any of the Rostock MAX v2 structure. Check to make sure that a print too close to the bed hasn’t caused the drive gear to chew up the belt in one spot. This would be a good item to add to your start-up checklist.
Page 311: Print Layer Issues
The problem with troubleshooting is sometimes trouble shoots back. :) Your Rostock MAX v2 3D printer is a pretty complex piece of machinery even though it looks pretty simple. As with any complex device sometimes things can go wrong in really weird ways. This won’t be a comprehensive troubleshooting guide, but will touch on a few of the problems I’ve run into...
Page 312: Machine Won't Move
Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide Fig. A-2: First print layer examples. (Image Courtesy of LulzBot) In the figure above, you’ll see five different print examples. On the far left you see the result of the nozzle being too close to the print bed, while at the far right you see the result of the nozzle being too far away.
Page 313: Belt Damage Or The Delta Arm Blues
Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide serial terminal output. You may be seeing an error go by that looks like this: Extruder switched off. MINTEMP triggered! What is most likely happening is that you haven’t yet plugged the hot-end thermistor in. The firmware is preventing the machine from moving because of this –...
Page 314 If you've got a tight u-joint even after applying a TINY amount of lithium grease or dry lubricant to it, you may have an axle problem. Contact SeeMeCNC support for further direction.

SeeMeCNC Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Manual

1 Required Tools and Materials

2 Visual Bill of Materials

3 Prepping the Hot End and Power Supply

4 Building the Base

5 Installing the Onyx Heated Bed

6 Installing the Towers & Tower Wiring

7 Assembling, Installing, and Wiring the Top Section

8 Assembling and Installing the Cheapskate Carriages

9 Installing the Drive Belts

10 Assembling and Installing the Ezstruder

11 Installing the Hot End and Bowden Tube

12 Installing the Effector Platform and Delta Arms

13 Installing the Hot End

14 Finishing the Top End

15 Assembling & Installing the LCD Panel Mount

16 Installing & Connecting the Rambo Controller

17 Final Assembly Tasks

18 Driver and Software Installation

19 Installing Mattercontrol and Calibrating the Printer

20 First Print: PEEK Fan Shroud

21 Second Print: Layer Fan Shroud

Appendix A: Maintenance and Troubleshooting

Quick Links

Need help?

Questions and answers

Related Manuals for SeeMeCNC Rostock MAX v2

Summary of Contents for SeeMeCNC Rostock MAX v2

Table of Contents