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SeeMeCNC Rostock Max Assembly Manual

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Welcome to the assembly guide for the Rostock Max 3D printer.
Before you begin, please make sure you've got the following tools and materials:
P1 & P2 Sized Phillips Screwdrivers
Standard Flat Head Screwdriver
3/32" Allen (hex) Wrench
5/32" Allen (hex) Wrench
Needle nose pliers
Forceps – these are VERY handy and will make your life easier in a number of the assembly
steps. They look like this:
You can purchase these online from Amazon for as little as $3.50 for a set of two.
I would recommend getting the ones with a slight curve to the jaws.
Wire Strippers
Wire Cutters
Metric Tape Measure or Meter Stick
A Small File – you may wish to get both a fine and coarse file. This is needed for adjusting
the spacing on some plastic parts later on in the build.
100-150 Grid Sand Paper
Rostock Max Assembly Guide
1

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Summary of Contents for SeeMeCNC Rostock Max

  • Page 1 Rostock Max Assembly Guide Welcome to the assembly guide for the Rostock Max 3D printer. Before you begin, please make sure you’ve got the following tools and materials:  P1 & P2 Sized Phillips Screwdrivers  Standard Flat Head Screwdriver ...
  • Page 2 The laser cut components in the Rostock Max kit are held in place with masking tape to ensure that they’re not damaged in transit. The simplest way to remove these parts from the scrap material is to use a razor blade to cut the tape around the perimeter of the part.
  • Page 3 Rostock Max Assembly Guide Figure 1 – The parts for the Rostock MAX printer.
  • Page 4 Rostock Max Assembly Guide 1 – Assembling the Machine Base 1.1 – Pop out the counter sink rings from the bottom plate (P/N: 68355) Figure 2 – Countersink rings. 1.2 - The counter-sink rings are simply circles have been engraved through the Melamine surface.
  • Page 5 Rostock Max Assembly Guide 1.4 - In the photo below I’ve got the first two feet installed – note that I initially inserted the nylon fasteners incorrectly. The nuts should be on the _other_ side. Installing them as shown in the photo will prevent the soft rubber caps from fitting properly.
  • Page 6 Rostock Max Assembly Guide 1.7 – Install the Tri-Supports (P/N: 86352), T-Slot Supports (P/N: 68377), and Motor Mount (P/N: 68364) Figure 6 - Tri Support and T-Slot Support Figure 7 - Dry fitting the T-Slot and Tri-Support together.
  • Page 7 Rostock Max Assembly Guide 1.8 - Dry fit the parts as shown in Fig 7 in order to get an idea how they go together. You’ll do this for many steps in the assembly guide. Next, pop out the counter-sink rings on the Tri-Support and install a pair of #6-32 Nylon lock nuts into the notches in the T-Slot Support as shown below.
  • Page 8 Rostock Max Assembly Guide 1.10 - Install the Motor Mount on the T-Slot Support. You’ll want to insert two #6-32 Nylon lock nuts as shown. Use a #6-32, 1” flat head machine screw to attach the Motor Mount to the T-Slot Support.
  • Page 9 Rostock Max Assembly Guide 1.13 - Leave the screws a bit loose until all three assemblies are installed. Install first two as shown: Figure 11 - Two Supports installed. 1.14 - Install Power supply mount in third support – note that it’s a simple friction fit at this point.
  • Page 10 Rostock Max Assembly Guide 1.15 - Place third assembly as shown Figure 13 - Final Tri-Support installed in the base. 1.16 - Finally, tighten screws but leave them a little bit loose. Having the components slightly free to move will help when you’re attaching the top to the base.
  • Page 11 Rostock Max Assembly Guide 1.19 - Using #6-32 Nylon lock nuts and #6-32, 1” flat head machine screws, install the cover brackets in the base. Figure 15 - Cover Brackets and Electronics Door installed. 1.20 – Install Electronics Mount (P/N: 68358) and Support Panel (P/N: 68357). Refer to Fig. 15 above for the location of the Electronics Panel.
  • Page 12 Rostock Max Assembly Guide 1.22 – Install the Base Top (P/N: 68351) With a razor knife, pop out all the counter-sink rings in the Base Top. Ensure that you’ve got #6-32 Nylon lock nuts installed in the notches in the various vertically oriented components.
  • Page 13 Rostock Max Assembly Guide 2 – Installation of the Heated Bed 2.1 - Identify the nine holes in the top marked with a laser engraved “1”. These holes are where you’ll install nine #4-40 T-Nuts from below. The simplest way to seat the t-nuts is to use one of the heated bed mounting screws and a washer to pull the t-nut into place.
  • Page 14 Rostock Max Assembly Guide 3 – Install Belt Pulleys on Stepper Motors 3.1 – When installing the pulley, make sure you do NOT over-tighten the screws. The belt pulley is made from aluminum and can be stripped out easily. Tighten both screws equally.
  • Page 15 Rostock Max Assembly Guide 4 – Install the Connectors on the Stepper Motors 4.1 – If you’re installing the RAMBo or other controller board on the inside face of the electronics mounting plate/door, you only need to add extension wires to the stepper motor for the Z axis.
  • Page 16 Rostock Max Assembly Guide 4.4 - Pin 1 on the connector is indicated by a small triangle pointer that points to the end of the connector. Fig. 20 below shows a 2 pin connector with this pin 1 arrow. The four pin stepper connectors have the same style indicator.
  • Page 17 Rostock Max Assembly Guide 5 – Installing the Stepper Motors to the Motor Mounts 5.1 – The stepper motors are installed using four M3, 10mm pan head screws. I would recommend using #4 star lock washers for extra peace of mind, but these are not included in the kit.

  • Page 18: Installation Of The Power Supply

    Rostock Max Assembly Guide 6 – Installation of the Power Supply 6.1 – Install the power supply as shown in Fig. 23. The power supply is attached to the power supply mount using four #6-32 ½” Nylon pan head screws. You’ll need your flat tip screwdriver for this.
  • Page 19 Rostock Max Assembly Guide 7 – Installation of the RAMBo Controller 7.1 – If you’re planning on installing the LCD control panel, you’ll want to install the RAMBo on the inside of the electronics mounting plate. 7.2 - The installation uses four #4-40 x ¾” socket head cap screws, four #4-40 t-nuts, four #4 flat washers and eight of the small plastic spacers.
  • Page 20 7.6 - The SeeMeCNC assembly video shows using one plastic spacer on either side of the board. I chose to install the board with both spacers stacked behind the circuit board. Take care not to over- tighten the screws or you could crack the circuit board.
  • Page 21 Rostock Max Assembly Guide 8 – Installing the T-Slot Hardware in the Base 8.1 - Installing the three T-Slot rails uses 12 each of the 1/4-20 x 1/2" button head cap screws and 12 each of the 1/4-20 t-slot nuts.
  • Page 22 Rostock Max Assembly Guide 8.4 - The nut should only be installed about one turn. There needs to be room for the rail to slide easily for installation in the next step. 8.5 - Carefully slide the three rails over the t-slot nuts - the fit may be a bit tight if you don't have the t-nuts loose enough.
  • Page 23 Rostock Max Assembly Guide 9 – Assembling and Installing the Idler Mounts 9.1 - Assemble the three Idler Brackets from the six Idler Mount parts (P/N: 68369) and the three Top Clamps (P/N: 68370) 9.2 - Insert the remaining 1/4-20 button head screws as shown in the photo below.
  • Page 24 Rostock Max Assembly Guide 9.5 – Install each Idler Mount to the Top Support Plate (P/N: 68368) as shown below: Figure 34 - Idler Mount Installed 9.6 - Note that the mounting screw shown in Fig. 34 is a #4-40 1-1/4” machine screw that is threaded into a #4-40 T-Nut that’s installed on the underside face of the Top Support Plate.
  • Page 25 Rostock Max Assembly Guide 10 – Installing the Top Support Plate 10.1 – Attach the Top Support Plate to the mounting rails. Finger tighten the button head screws after you’ve got the Top Support Plate installed. The Idler Brackets get a final adjustment and tightening later.
  • Page 26 Rostock Max Assembly Guide 11 – Tighten the Rails at the Base 11.1 - Make sure the bottom of the rail aligns with the laser engraving marks and then tighten the T-Slot bolts for the base. A hex wrench with a “T” handle will be handy for this step.
  • Page 27 Rostock Max Assembly Guide 12 – Adjusting the Top Support Plate 12.1 - Pick a tower and align the Idler Mount's engraved reference line to the top of the rail and tighten all four bolts - make sure that BOTH reference lines are aligned with the top of the rail. I chose the Z axis to begin this step.
  • Page 28 Rostock Max Assembly Guide 13 – Assembling the Filament Spool and Extruder Bracket 13.1 - The filament spool mounting bracket is made from two arms (Filament Spool Bracket P/N: 68392) attached to the Extruder Brackets (P/N: 68397) The three Extruder Support Spacers are also used (P/N: 68388).
  • Page 29 Rostock Max Assembly Guide 13.2 - Attach the filament bracket and the Extruder Support Spacers as shown in Fig. 40. Figure 40 - Filament Spool Bracket and Extruder Support Spacers 13.3 - Install Extruder Clamp (P/N: 68399) and then install the other half of the Extruder Support Bracket &...
  • Page 30 Rostock Max Assembly Guide 13.4 - After assembly you can hang the extruder on the machine like so: Figure 42 - Filament Spool & Extruder Support in the operating position.
  • Page 31 Rostock Max Assembly Guide 13.5 – Install the Extruder Mounting Plate (P/N: 71534). The Extruder Mounting Plate attaches to the Filament Spool & Extruder Bracket using four #6-32, 1” long flat head screws and four #6-32 nylon lock nuts. Figure 43 - Extruder Mount Installed 13.6 –...
  • Page 32 Rostock Max Assembly Guide 13.8 – Install Bowden Drive PTC Adapter on Extruder Mount Plate. Figure 45 - Bowden Drive PTC Adapter Installed Set this assembly aside for now – it won’t be needed for a while. 14 – Assembling the Extruder 14.1 –...
  • Page 33 Rostock Max Assembly Guide 15 – Building the Carriage 15.1 - Get three of the six short steel rods, the two platform halves (P/N: 68304) and six of the CNC cut U-Joints (P/N: 68309). Figure 46 - Platform Halves, U-Joints and U-Join Axles 15.2 - The first step is to assemble the platform halves and then start test fitting each of the U-...
  • Page 34 Rostock Max Assembly Guide 15.3 - The U-Joints will be tight. Take your file or sandpaper and clean up the sides where the U- Joint makes contact. You want to remove enough material to loosen up the friction, but not introduce any side-to-side play in the part.
  • Page 35 Rostock Max Assembly Guide 15.6 - Join the two platform halves using 12 #4 x 1/4" sheet metal screws. Figure 49 - #4 x 1/4" Sheet Metal Screw 15.7 - Six screws are used on the top, six on the bottom. Use a P1 Philips screwdriver for this.
  • Page 36 Rostock Max Assembly Guide 15.10 - The arms have square corners, but they should have a radius to them. To do this, grab a sheet of 100 grit sandpaper or a good file and sand the corners so they look like the photo below.
  • Page 37 Rostock Max Assembly Guide 15.13 - Next, grab the Carriage U-Joint mounts, six CNC U-Joints, the package of #4 x 3/8" sheet metal screws and the last three axle rods. Figure 53 - Carriage U-Joint Mount Parts. 15.14 - You'll want to use the same sanding procedure as on the platform to ensure that the U-Joints fit well in the mounts.
  • Page 38 Rostock Max Assembly Guide 15.16 - Now it's time to mount the Carriage U-Joint mounts to the Arm Plates (P/N: 68344) This requires six #6-32 Nylon lock nuts and six #6-32 x 5/8" Cap head screws. Figure 55 - Carriage U-Joint Mounts and Arm Plates.
  • Page 39 Rostock Max Assembly Guide 15.18 - Fit the U-Joint and their axles in the mounting plate. Note that the mount may be gripping the U-Joint more tightly. File until it fits the same as before. 15.19 - Now lock the axles in place using the #4 sheet metal screws. Take care to examine how the axle sits in the carriage grooves - you may need to file the sides a bit to get the axle to fully seat.
  • Page 40 Rostock Max Assembly Guide 16 – Assembling the Cheapskate Bearings 16.1 - For this step, you'll need the three Carriage Plates (P/N: 68343), the remaining CNC machined aluminum hardware that was in the same bag with the U-Joints, the 608 bearings, and the machined plastic bearing sleeves.
  • Page 41 Rostock Max Assembly Guide 16.3 - Next we'll get the 3 Cheapskate bearings built. For this step you'll need the package of #6- 32, 2" machine screws, the #6 washers, the #6-32 x 1.75" cap head screws, the bag of #6-32 Nylon lock- nuts, #4-40 x 1/2"...
  • Page 42 Rostock Max Assembly Guide 16.5 - Now install two more spacers on the bearings. Figure 62 - Last Spacers Installed 16.6 - Place the Carriage Plate on to the machine screws in the holes marked "SPACER" Figure 63 - Carriage Plate Installed 16.7 - Install #6 washers and #6-32 nylon lock-nuts, finger tight...
  • Page 43 Rostock Max Assembly Guide 16.8 - Attach belt clamp to the carriage. Install two #4-40 T-Nuts as shown Figure 65 - T-Nuts Installed 16.9 - Next, fold the belt clamp in half as pictured. Figure 66 - Folded Belt Clamp 16.20 -Install the belt clamp with two #4-40 cap head screws with the "open"...
  • Page 44 Rostock Max Assembly Guide 16.21 - Install the other belt clamp as shown: Figure 68 - Lower Belt Clamp Installed 16.22 - Prepare the Axle Supports (P/N: 68381) for installation. Insert a #6-32, 2" machine screw and washer into the end of the axle support.
  • Page 45 Rostock Max Assembly Guide 16.25 - Insert a #6-32 nylon lock-nut into the base of each support as shown. Figure 71 - Axle Support with Lock Nuts Installed 16.26 - Construct the other two Axle Supports the same as this unit.
  • Page 46 Rostock Max Assembly Guide 16.29 - Install the bearings using a 2" #6-32 screw, 2 #6 washers and a #6-32 nylon lock nut as pictured below. The screws go into the holes marked "ECAM". To make the installation easier, make sure you've got the center holes in the eccentric cams lined up or the screw won't go in easily.
  • Page 47 Rostock Max Assembly Guide 16.34 - Adjust the bottom eccentric spacers "DOWN" (Facing the Cheapskate, rotate the eccentric in a clockwise fashion) until the bearing has a good grip on the T-Slot extrusion. 16.35 - You don't want the bearings gripping the rail too tightly - the Acetal bearing covers will develop a flat spot overnight if you do.

  • Page 48: Idler Assembly

    Figure 77 - Lower Idler Bearings Installed 17.3 - It may be easier to install the parts if you lay the Rostock Max down on its side. Note that the "inner" idler bearing must be installed first or you won't be able to reach its location past the...
  • Page 49 Rostock Max Assembly Guide 17.4 - Install one idler bearing at the top of each tower. The bearings are mounted in the slot in the idler bracket as shown in the photo below. Figure 78 - Upper Idler Bearing Installed...

  • Page 50: Installing The Belts

    Rostock Max Assembly Guide 18 – Installing the Belts! 18.1 - To begin, route the Z axis belt (or whatever axis you choose to begin with) from the top of the base plate, down below the bottom idler pulleys. Draw most of the belt through.
  • Page 51 Rostock Max Assembly Guide 18.6 - An alternate (and probably much easier method) is to insert the belt into the slot and drag it down and around the idler pulleys. No matter what though, you're going to have to fish that sucker at least three times when you attach the other end of the belt to the top.
  • Page 52 Rostock Max Assembly Guide 18.8 - Attach the long end of the belt to the Cheapskate. Remove the upper belt clamp and route the belt up to the top idler, passing to the inside of the Cheapskate and fish that poor belt through that tiny, tiny slot.
  • Page 53 Rostock Max Assembly Guide 18.12 - Tighten Idler Bearings. Using a screwdriver as shown, raise the Idler bearing up until the belt is tight and tighten down the screw holding the idler bearing. 18.13 - Place the tip of the screwdriver on the other side of the rail and pry up gently. This should raise the idler bearing up evenly.
  • Page 54 Rostock Max Assembly Guide 19 – Installing the Limit Switches and Adjustment Screws 19.1 - First, install three adjustment screws, #6-32, 2" as shown on each of the three U-Joint carriers. Thread the screw about 3/8" deep. Figure 85 - End Stop Adjustment Screw 19.2 - Next, the three wiring harnesses (2 wires) for the limit switches need to be routed.
  • Page 55 Rostock Max Assembly Guide Figure 87 - Top End Stop wiring shown from the bottom. 19.5 - Next, you want to thread the wire around the side to the wire slot that’s in the Idler Bracket as shown below. Figure 88 - Wire slot in the Idler Bracket.
  • Page 56 Rostock Max Assembly Guide 19.6 - Thread the wires down the central shaft of the extrusion using the fishing line - simply tie a looped knot (a granny knot) around both wires just ahead of the crimp on connectors - make sure you've twisted the wires together a bit as it makes pulling them both a bit easier.
  • Page 57 Rostock Max Assembly Guide 19.9 - There are three limit switches, one each for the three towers. Each switch is installed using two #2-56 5/8" machine screws and two #2-56 nuts. The switches are wired as Normally Closed. The end-stop wires should be attached to the "C" and "NC" terminals. In the photo below, these terminals are on the left (C) and right (NC) of the switch.
  • Page 58 Cheapskate is at the top of its travel. Congrats! The mechanical portion of the Rostock MAX Assembly Guide is complete. Next up is all heaty-burny stuff and electronics. ...
  • Page 59 Rostock Max Assembly Guide 20 –Wiring the Heated Bed 20.1 – For this task, you’ll need to remove the Heated Bed from the base and install the LED and 1k resistor as shown below. Make sure to orient the “flat spot” on the LED to the right. The flat area marks the Cathode or “-“side of the LED.
  • Page 60 Rostock Max Assembly Guide 20.2 – Now solder the two conductor white wires to the under –side of the heated bed where it’s marked “V+” and “V-“. Before soldering the wires in, you may wish to intertwine them in order to make the wires easier to manage.
  • Page 61 Rostock Max Assembly Guide 20.5 – Pull the four conductor cable through the bottom of the machine so it ends up in the section where the RAMBo is located. Cut the cable long enough that you’ll be able to have the electronics door completely open with the heated bed connector still plugged in.
  • Page 62 Rostock Max Assembly Guide 21 – Assembling, Wiring and Mounting the Hot End Assembly 21.1 – For this step, you’ll need all the components for the hot end. This includes the Hot End Spacer (P/N: 68324), Hot End Adapter Plate (P/N: 68328), Bowden Hot End PTC Adapter (P/N: 68316), Feed Tube Insulator, Heater Clamp, Nozzle (P/N: 71541), the Bowden Tube fitting, a thermistor, 2 power resistors and finally, the Teflon Liner.
  • Page 63 Rostock Max Assembly Guide 21.3 – Next you’ll install the Bowden Fitting on the Bowden Hot End PTC Adapter by threading it into the hole in the top. Tighten this down so it compresses the O-Ring seal, but not so much that it starts to squish it out from under the brass fitting.
  • Page 64 Rostock Max Assembly Guide 21.7 – I purchased some high-temperature silicone tape from the local auto parts store and made a thermistor sandwich using that tape as well as a “mayo” layer of RTV. Figure 103 - Thermistor sandwich with RTV sauce! 21.8 –...
  • Page 65 Rostock Max Assembly Guide 21.11 – Now we’re going to get the resistors ready to wire up – wrap each resistor lead pair together as shown: Figure 105 - Resistor wires wrapped together. Figure 106 - Resistor wires wrapped together.
  • Page 66 Rostock Max Assembly Guide 21.13 – Trim off the “skirt” from two crimp-on wire nuts – this will help them clear in the limited space available once the Hot End is mounted on the delta platform. Figure 108 - Skirt trimmed from the crimp-on wire nut.
  • Page 67 Rostock Max Assembly Guide 21.15 – Next up, you’ll get the wires for the thermistor routed and soldered up. For my installation I used some more of that Silicone Tape to protect the solder joints – they’re delicate. If you’ve got Kapton tape, use it here.
  • Page 68 Rostock Max Assembly Guide 21.17 – Mounting the hot end is very simple, but take care not to damage the thermistor installation. When you’ve got the Hot End Assembly mounted, inspect the wires coming out of the resistors VERY carefully! You want to make sure that there’s no chance of the resistor leads coming in contact with the Hot End itself.
  • Page 69 Rostock Max Assembly Guide 22 – Wiring the Power Switch & RAMBo Power 22.1 – Take the included power switch and remove all the mounting hardware from it. The mounting point is ¼” thick and there won’t be any room except the outside nut when it’s time to install 22.2 –...
  • Page 70 Rostock Max Assembly Guide 22.4 – Now find the six pin connector that has three yellow and three black wires attached. Cut the wires right off at the connector and route the wires into the electronics bay. Take the black six pin terminal connector and attach the wires as shown.

  • Page 71: Final Assembly

    Rostock Max Assembly Guide 23 – Final Assembly! 23.1 – It’s final assembly time! The first thing up is getting the extruder installed on to the extruder mount. As shipped, the extruder is designed to feed both 1.75mm and 3.0mm filament. This set up is going to focus on the 1.75mm settings.
  • Page 72 Rostock Max Assembly Guide 23.4 – Once you’ve got the extruder installed, go ahead and mount the Extruder Bracket assembly as shown. If you haven’t already extended the leads for the drive stepper motor, now would be a good time to do that. Please review the instructions in Section 4 for wiring details. The stepper motor wiring can be routed as shown, or you can go around the outside of the door, through the finger pull.
  • Page 73 Rostock Max Assembly Guide 23.6 – Tie the thermistor wire to the Hot End heater cable as shown below. I used waxed lacing cord here because it won’t catch on the split tubing I’ll use to protect the wires with.
  • Page 74 Rostock Max Assembly Guide 23.8 – Install the split flex tubing on the wires leading to the Hot End and lightly bind it to the Bowden tube using wire ties. Don’t over-tighten the wire ties as you’ll crush the split flex tubing.
  • Page 75 Use the RAMBo documentation as well as Fig. 124 to get all your connections made. CONGRADULATIONS! You’ve got yourself a fully assembled Rostock MAX 3D Printer! Kick back, relax and have your beverage of choice. After you’ve had a chance to recover from your ordeal, we’ll get the necessary software installed and get the machine checked out in preparation...

  • Page 76: Software Installation And Configuration

    Rostock Max Assembly Guide Software Installation and Configuration Ok, you’ve managed to get this far, so it’s time to get this old beastie printing little green squirrels (or whatever other “legitimate” use you have for this fancy thing).