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This guide will take you through the steps to set up and operate your new 3D printer from SeeMeCNC. You’ll find instructions on calibration, software, maintenance and more all in this manual. As a new SeeMeCNC™ owner, you’ll also find a ton of great resources on the forums at...
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Introduction – Read Me First! This document is your instruction manual for your new SeeMeCNC® 3D printer machine. Before using your new 3D printer, thoroughly read and understand this manual for safe and effective operation of the machine. Warning Personal property damage, serious injury or death can result from not following instructions or warning in the manual or misuse of the machine.
Installing the LCD Control Panel, USB Cable and SD Card............7 Installing the Power Cord and Spool Holder................12 Loading Filament........................16 Powering Up your new Orion Delta™ 3D Printer for the First Time..........19 The LCD Control Panel......................20 Setting the Z height........................23 Leveling your new Orion Delta™...
Un-Boxing your new Orion Delta™ 3D Printer With your box standing in the upright position, carefully cut the packing tape along the top edges and across the taped seam in the box. After you’ve cut the tape, open the top of the box being careful of any packaging staples.
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Carefully cut and remove the stretch wrap film that is holding the power/USB cables, Orion control panel and accessories on the top plate, as well as the stretch wrap holding your filament to the table top and glass build surface.
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In order to prevent damage during shipping, the hot end on the Orion Delta™ is locked in place over the bed by lowering the delta arms as low as they'll go on each tower. These arms need to be raised in order for the Orion Delta™ to be used.
Gently pull the pair of flat ribbon cables out a bit from the Orion Delta™ and install them as shown. The “first” cable is marked by an “X” and has a matching “X” on the back of the LCD...
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The USB cable only needs to be used if you wish to manually control the machine from the software on your PC. You can print and do most calibration standalone, without the USB cable attached. We recommend hooking it up now, so if you need to connect it to your computer to make changes etc., the cable is already installed.
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Remove the two black thumb screws as shown and set them aside. Now you'll install the LCD control panel into the Orion Delta™. Please take care as the parts are a tight fit. Align the LCD mounting plate as shown below – there's small locking tabs...
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Carefully raise the panel into place and fit it flush against the mating surface, making sure that not wires get pinched between the two panels – this is a tight fit, so please be careful. Insert the black thumbscrews you'd removed earlier in the mounting holes and tighten them using only your fingers.
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In the accessories box, you should find a small SD card. Insert the SD card into the side of the LCD enclosure as shown below.
Installing the Power Cord and Spool Holder In order to reach the power supply, you'll need to remove the panel that covers it. Remove the two black thumb screws and set them and the panel aside. Get the power cable from the box the accessories came in.
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If you're outside the USA and live in a country where the A/C electrical power is 240V, you'll need to flip the switch on the power supply to its 240V setting. This switch is located right below the power socket as shown. You can use a flat tip screwdriver to change its position. The power cable is installed by routing it through the hole in the base of the Orion Delta™...
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Now replace the door as shown, replacing the black thumbscrews you'd removed previously. As with the others, tighten them only with your fingers. The spool holder is made from two identical laser cut parts.
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Holding the spool holder parts together, install in the spool holder mount as shown. Press down firmly once the hooks on the spool holder are fully inserted into the mounting holes. This will lock the spool holder into place.
Loading Filament Hang your filament spool on the hanger as shown – you want to make sure that the filament is oriented such that the filament comes off the top of the spool, not the bottom. Route the filament through the first filament guide as shown and then route the filament through the second filament guide that's located on the other side of the rear tower.
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To load the filament through the EZStruder, you'll need to depress the red lever with your thumb (press up) and thread the filament in from the bottom as shown. Continue to feed filament until the filament enters the hot end through the bowden tube.
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Finally, you'll want to remove the protective plastic sheet that covers the LCD.
Powering Up your new Orion Delta™ 3D Printer for the First Time Plug the power cord into a grounded, three prong outlet. Orient the Orion Delta™ to face you and flip the power switch to the right. You should be briefly greeted by a power on message similar to the one shown below.
The LCD Control Panel Before we get into doing final configuration and printing with your new Orion Delta™ 3D printer, let's take a moment to go over the LCD “home” screen so you'll understand what information is being presented to you.
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All control of your Orion Delta™ when not connected to a host computer is done via the LCD panel and the rotary knob to the right of it. The knob will allow you to navigate the various menus and make selections when you press the knob in.
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Rotate the knob to the left and select the “Home Towers” option. Pressing the button should result in your Orion Delta™ homing all three axes. Note that if you leave the LCD in “menu mode” for too long, it will automatically revert to...
Setting the Z height Congratulations! Your new Orion Delta™ 3D printer is alive! But before we get to printing lets take a minute to set the Z height of the machine as it could have been bumped during shipping and it needs to be super accurate to get the best first-layer adhesion of your prints.
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After the machine is homed, scroll to “Z Position” and click. You'll see the display change to what is similar to the photo above. In order to move the platform down, you'll turn the knob counter-clockwise. If you turn it quickly, you'll get large movements and when you turn it very slowly, you'll get a .01mm per-click change.
Leveling your new Orion Delta™ 3D (The Easy Way!) Sometimes the abuse the Orion can experience during shipping can adversely effect the factory calibration. If that's the case with your printer, you can use this easy to follow guide in order to re-calibrate your Orion.
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4) Now you are in the calibration menu. Click Home Towers. The machine will go up and hit all the end-stops. 5) Go down to Z Position and click the knob. 6) Turn the knob Counter-Clockwise to lower the nozzle. Bring the nozzle down till its a couple millimeters from the glass like the following pic.
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9) Go to Home Towers. Click the knob. You have now set the z height, and now it is time to calibrate the towers. The next steps can be done through a computer or SD card. I find it is easier on a sd card so you can keep close to the machine to watch the movement.
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The gap will look like the following pic. After it drops to the center like that, it will travel to the X tower. DO NOT pay attention to what the nozzle does while traveling, what you must pay attention to is when it pauses. The nozzle will pause at the X corner, then return to the center, and move to the Y tower and pause.
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– If the nozzle at the tower LOWERS (compared to the CENTER), you want to adjust the screw that hits the end-stop by turning it clockwise (moving the screw down). Pic of screw you will adjust: *** Make small changes to the screw about 1/8 – ¼ turn adjustments*** 15) After you have adjusted the screws, You have changed the Z height, so you want to go back and re-set the Z height the way you did earlier in this guide.
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17a) If from the center gap, the nozzle goes DOWN toward the glass at ALL 3 TOWERS, load your host software and bring up the EEPROM information. You will look for Horizontal Radius. You want to RAISE that number. I suggest raising it by 0.2 and run towers.gcode to see the change, and keep raising the number till the gap evens out (changing this number will not make you need to re-set your z height, it will just raise the outer edges where the nozzle pauses).
A Simple Guide to Hot End Priming Before you can print with your new Orion Delta™ for the first time (or any time you load new filament), you'll need to prime the hot end with the new material. Fortunately, this is a very simple task! Now on the LCD screen, click and go to “Printer Settings”...
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That's all there is to it! You're ready to print!
If you've got an SD card reader on your computer, you can easily save files to the SD card in order to print with your Orion Delta™ in “stand-alone” mode. You don't need to connect the printer to your computer in order to print! Let's take a look at the demo files that were included on the SD card that was shipped with your Orion Delta™.
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Scroll to the “Print file” menu item and click. This will get you into the top level directory of the SD card. The odd little symbol you see to the left of the directory names are actually little folder icons. This simply helps separate the directories from g-code and other files on the SD card. Click the “GCODE”...
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Note – before you run a print job on your Orion Delta™, you need to apply a thin layer of adhesive using the included glue stick. This will allow the ABS plastic to stick to the glass. Apply the glue stick in a thin layer of parallel lines. Let it dry and repeat the process, using lines perpendicular to the first layer.
Changing Filament Changing the filament on your Orion is a very simple process. First, you'll want to bring the hot end up to the temperature you normally set it at when you're printing. Once the hot end is at operating temperature, pop the bowden tube off the hot end as shown in the following steps.
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When the filament pulls free, it should look something like the photo below. 2. Cut off the filament flush with the end of the bowden tube.
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3. Pull the filament stub from the hotend and then re-insert the bowden tube into the hotend, making sure it seats fully.
This “driver” isn't so much a real piece of code as it is a fancy device description that tells Windows how to talk to a bog standard serial port. You can download the driver here: http://download.seemecnc.com/Software/RAMBo_USBdriver.zip The driver file is signed so it should work without any problems under Windows Vista, 7 and 8.
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Before you start up the host software, you'll need to know what port that the Orion appears as. In order to discover this bit of information, you'll need to open up Device Manager (right click on My Computer, click “Properties” and then click “Device Manager”). You'll get a window that looks something like this: The green box highlights the entries we're interested in.
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“Printer:” drop-down shown above. It will typically start as “default”, but you can change that to whatever you like. I named this one “Orion Delta”. You'll want to change the “Port:” selection to match the entry you found previously while exploring the Device Manager.
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Now click on the “Printer” tab: You'll want to change all the fields in your Printer tab to match the values I have set above example. You'll learn over time what each of these different options do, but for now just set them as I have them.
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Now click the Printer Shape tab: Click on the “Printer Type:” drop-down and select “Rostock Printer (circular print shape)”. That selection should change the Printer Shape configuration screen to look similar to what you see above. Go ahead and click on the “OK” button to save your changes and dismiss the configuration dialog.
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Below is a more current version of the sign-on banner. 10:48:13.758 : FIRMWARE_NAME:Repetier_0.91 FIRMWARE_URL:https://github.com/seemecnc/Repetier-091- ORION PROTOCOL_VERSION:1.0 MACHINE_TYPE:Orion_Delta EXTRUDER_COUNT:1 REPETIER_PROTOCOL:2 10:48:13.761 : Printed filament:492.65m Printing time:2 days 21 hours 50 min The firmware “boot” banner basically tells you what the revision of the software is as well as how much filament you've printed (measured in meters) and how much time your Orion has spent printing.
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Click on the “Manual Control” tab that's located on the right half of the Repetier-Host display: You'll be using this when you need to manually control the Orion. You'll note that there's two icons on the manual control panel that I've “marked out”.
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As soon as the G28 command completes, you'll notice that all three red axis labels have turned black. X and Y will be zero and the Z axis will (or at least should) match the Z height you set in the printer configuration dialog when you first started Repetier-Host. Now that the Orion has been “homed', you can now use the X, Y and Z movement buttons to “jog”...
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Change the set point to the appropriate temperature for your filament by either entering that value into the control or by using the little up arrow next to it. For this demonstration, you can use 185 for PLA and 215 for ABS. If you've turned off the extruder, go ahead and turn it back on, letting it reach the set point.
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Now that you've got a basic understanding of how to manually control your Orion with Repetier-Host, let's find something interesting for you to print as your “introductory” object. I'd recommend you head over to http://www.repables.com and find something you'd like to print.
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The scroll wheel on your mouse zoom the build volume in and out. This is useful when you're manually arranging parts or you want a closer look at a generated tool path. The second half of the Repetier-Host display will contain the Object Placement panel after a model has been loaded.
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The slicing utility that comes with Repetier-Host is called “Slic3r” and is an excellent, open-source utility. In order to make things easier on new users, SeeMeCNC has created two “default” Slic3r profiles for you to use. One is for ABS and one for PLA. You can download them using the links below: http://download.seemecnc.com/orion/quickstart/ORIONABS.zip...
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As you can (barely) see on the previous page, I've already gotten the ORIONABS configuration loaded. In order to load it, click on the File menu and choose the “Load Config” item. Browse to the directory where you unpacked your chosen configuration and open it. Explaining what all the features of Slic3r are is just a bit outside the scope of this manual, so I'm only going to cover a few points.
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Once you've done this, click the little disk icon next to the ORIONABS drop down to save your changes. When you click the save icon, you'll be given the choice to name the configuration something new. If you choose to do this, make sure you remember the name you picked.
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The G-Code editor tab shows the output of the slicing process. It contains all the G and M codes generated by Slic3r. There's nothing you need to do here, so let's take a peek at the other new thing that appeared after Slic3r was done doing its work.
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This is caused because when ABS cools asymmetrically, it does really odd things. If you're having curling issues with ABS, please post a message about the issue you're having on the SeeMeCNC Support Forum at http://forum.seemecnc.com/index.php.
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There's a lot of really experienced users there that can help you get your ABS prints working properly. The best way to handle ABS prints is to make sure that the space where the Orion is isn't exposed to drafts. A draft will make any curling issues a lot worse.
Advanced Repetier-Host Repetier-Host is a pretty advanced piece of software and it can make your life a lot easier when it comes to printing your projects on your new Orion. I'm going to walk you through most of the more interesting things that Repetier-Host can do.
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The Object Placement tab allows you to do a number of things with one or more loaded objects. Moving right across from left to right, the functions are: Export This allows you to save all the currently loaded (or only the selected ones) parts as a single STL or OBJ file.
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You should now have five of the Ignite objects on your build surface. You ended up with five because you made four copies of the one object. If your goal was only four objects total, you'd tell the copier you wanted three copies. The copy feature is very handy when you have to make a lot of the same thing.
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The next section of the Object Placement tab has to do with how objects are sized and oriented in the build volume. The Translation row controls the object placement on the bed. This is normally something you'll never need to manipulate by hand as you can move the object around with the mouse, or by clicking the Auto-position icon.
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The Slicer tab is the basic interface to the primary slicing utility that Repetier-Host uses, Slic3r. Slic3r is one of the more popular slicing tools for 3D printing. It's open source and community supported. The Slicer tab also provides access to Skienforge, another free and open source slicing utility.
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The last tab I'm going to cover is the G-Code Editor tab. When you slice a model, the output of the slicer will be automatically loaded here. The G-Code Editor is basically just a fancy text editor. It allows you to view the G-Code that the slicer generates for the object(s) you sliced as well as allows you to view...
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The Help mode (accessed by clicking the “Help” tab next to “Visualization”) is a very handy feature when you'd like to see what all that noise in the G-Code Editor is actually doing. When you click on a G or M code that Repetier-Host knows about, it'll pull a description out of its database and display the information in the Help window as shown above.
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The image below shows a typical “cold” Orion. There's four “tracks” worth of data shown on the graph. Graph #1 shows the bed temperature (the thinner cyan line) and the bed temperature average (thicker, dark blue line) Graph #2 shows the hot end temperature (the thinner red line) and the hot end average temperature (thicker, brown line).
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This is an indication of a properly tuned hot end controlling algorithm. Now that you've had a good review of Repetier-Host and the Orion Delta 3D printer, go print something cool and have some fun!
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