Factory Five Racing GTM Supercar Assembly Manual

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R E V I S I O N 2 D , A P R I L 2 0 1 4

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Page 1 R E V I S I O N 2 D , A P R I L 2 0 1 4...
Page 2  2014 Factory Five Racing Inc. 9 Tow Rd Wareham, MA 02571 Phone 508.291.3443 • Fax 508.291.3883...
Page 3: Table Of Contents
Table of Contents Table of Contents................... ii General Information ..............1 Foreword ..................1 Safety Notice ................... 4 Safety Tips ..................5 How to use This Book ..............6 What You Get ................. 6 What You Need ................7 Serial Number Identification ............7 Tools List ..................
Page 4 Stereo and Heater Controls ..............103 Dash Cluster ..................104 Pedal Bracket ..................104 Hood Release Handle and Cables ............. 108 Trim Panels ..................109 Door Sill ..................... 109 Side Panel (Coupe) ................110 Upper Roof Bow Panel (Coupe) ............111 Rear Compartment –...
Page 5 Pre-engine preparation ............... 260 Engine Installation ............... 261 Alternator Installation ..............263 Transaxle Adapter Plate Preparation and Installation ....273 Throwout Bearing Assembly............... 277 Transaxle Install ................280 1990 and Later G50 ................280 Brake Line Routing..............285 Clutch Line Routing ..............294 Battery Install ................
Page 6 Shifter Linkage ................404 Catalytic Exhaust Pipe Installation ..........415 Fuel Tank and Fuel line Routing ..........419 1997–2002 Fuel Tanks ..............419 Fuel tank Crossover Tube ..............420 Fuel line Routing ................422 2002-2004 Fuel Tanks ............... 430 Drive/Test Chassis (Go-Cart) ............435 Front Suspension ................
Page 7 Roll Bar Padding ................. 545 Front Cross Bar ................. 545 Side Bars ................... 549 Vinyl Installation ................554 Fuel Tank Covers................554 Rear Wall ................... 560 Tunnel – Driver and Passenger Side ..........566 Cockpit Side Wall (Upper) ..............578 Cockpit –...
Page 8 Windshield Wipers and Washer Fluid Tank ........ 640 Door Handles/ Liners ..............653 Rear Splash Guards..............664 Exhaust/ Rear Mesh..............669 License Plate Lights ..............676 Diffuser ..................677 Dash.................... 678 Dash Vents ..................678 Center Console .................. 681 Dash Pods ..................686 Gauge panel ..................
Page 9 GTM A/C Hose ................746 Installation Instructions ............... 746 Heat & A/C Hose kit Routing Diagram ........754 Heat & A/C Servicing Procedure ..........755 viii www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 10: General Information
Chapter General Information Foreword f you are reading this, you are embarking on a mission to build your own car, or at least considering doing so. I wanted to share with you some of my experiences and lessons learned while working with literally thousands of people who have completed this...
Page 11 very definition of always trying to go faster. The late Carroll Smith wrote something I really loved that speaks to this point. “There is no magic! The one basic truth of successful racecar preparation bears repeating. There is no magic. There is only logic, common sense, forethought, vast amounts of hard work, and a fanatic dedication to the task at hand”.
Page 12 You will join a community of others who have earned their own… and THAT is the story of Factory Five Racing and that is what awaits you in this process.
Page 13: Safety Notice
If, while building, driving or racing this Factory Five Racing kit, should you become injured or die, it will be the result of your own conscious decision and we at Factory Five Racing, Inc., disclaim any responsibility of any kind.
Page 14: Safety Tips
Safety Tips  Read the manual. It is at least a good guide and place to start.  Don’t take short cuts.  Before starting work, make sure you have the proper tools, the required parts, and sufficient space for the job. If you damage any parts, it will probably be because they were either not stored properly or, the wrong tool was used to install them.
Page 15: How To Use This Book
How to use This Book This Assembly manual is intended to help you build your Factory Five Kit. This book will not explain such things as engine or transmission building. A secondary purpose of this book is to use it as reference for owners that want to do maintenance work on their cars or for those that purchase finished cars, to understand their cars better.
Page 16: What You Need
Wheels and Tires: See the appendix for complete recommended sizes. Serial Number Identification Factory Five Racing has included a Certificate of Origin along with a Nameplate for your kit. The serial number from the Certificate of Origin matches the number engraved on the 2”x 2” tube going across the car at the front of the cockpit.
Page 17: Tools List
Tools List The following lists detail the tools and supplies that are needed to build your kit. The “helpful” items are not crucial to the assembly but make life easier. Home Depot HUSKY®, Sears CRAFTSMAN®, and Snap-On tools are all guaranteed for life and we’ve found them to be more reliable over discount tools.
Page 18: Required Supplies
Required Supplies Stick with name brand products like Eastwood, 3M, and Duplicolor. The Eastwood brand coatings are great for bringing weathered and oxidized parts up to show quality. PPG brand and DuPont brand paints are excellent. Engine degreaser Silicone Door and window sealant, GE Silicone II or equivalent - 4 tubes Coolant –...
Page 19: Donor Parts And Parts Needed
Chapter Donor Parts and Parts needed www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 20: Donor Part Selection Tips
This chapter deals with the donor parts needed in addition to the parts that we included with our kit. Many people choose to use parts from a single Corvette donor. If you are not going to use a donor car but choose to acquire parts separately, this section may still be useful.
Page 21: Price - Transaxle
of being able to pick the best of those that are available. There is a wide range in prices for donor packages depending on the type of car (Coupe, Convertible or Z06) and mileage. Keep in mind that some cars may be wrecked, but considered “repairable”. A car that has been deemed “un-repairable” may be a better, less expensive choice if the damage did not affect any of the parts on the donor list.
Page 22: Corvette Parts
have documentation on the origin and sale price. Check the numbers twice. The VIN numbers are located on the back of the engine block, on a flat spot between the heads and at the apex where the bell housing meets the block. Some solvent or WD-40 can usually clean this area off enough to see the numbers.
Page 23: Porsche Parts
forward and backward. If you can’t drive it, let it run for a moment, and then re-start it. Look for main bearing oil leaks (behind the harmonic balancer) or oil pan leaks. Leaks aren’t common unless the car has high mileage. Although you will not be using the Corvette transmission or torque tube, if they show signs of being hit, the impact may have translated to the crankshaft.
Page 24  Flathead Screwdriver, 10, 13 mm socket, T-30 Torx.  Window mechanism, Mirrors, Exterior Door Handle Lower the window Remove the access panel behind the pull handle, and remove the screws behind the pull handle. Pry up the window switch from the back and unplug the electrical connection. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 25 Remove the inside door handle bezel by pulling the handle, then prying the upper and lower clips free. Remove the door panel – start by prying the panel fastener at the rear of the panel near the part in the liner (See picture).
Page 26 good way to remove the panel without breaking the fasteners is to pry between the male end and the female end. The picture below shows what each part looks like. Lift the panel off of the top clips and set aside. Remove the Styrofoam insert. Remove the speaker assembly (7 mm) and speaker electrical connector.
Page 27 Remove the water deflector. Remove the front plug at the bottom of the door. Remove the access plugs at the front and rear of the door to expose the mirror retaining nuts. Some models have plugs while others have adhesive-backed strips (pictured). If your donor has the adhesive-backed covers, they should peel off easily by hand.
Page 28 Unbolt the three mirror retaining nuts (10 mm). It may help to have a magnet handy to prevent dropping the retaining nut once it is loose. Disconnect the mirror electrical plugs. Remove and save the mirrors and retaining nuts. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 29 Reconnect the window switch. Move the window all the way up. You should now have access to the window clamp bolts. Remove the window clamp bolts (13 mm). You do not need to keep the clamp bolts (they will not clear the glass in the GTM).
Page 30 Remove the door lock rod from the lock cylinder lever. This works well using a pair of pliers to press on the bottom of the rod with one jaw of the pliers, and the other pressing the lock cylinder lever. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 31: Hood
Unbolt the two outside door handle bolts (10 mm). You may have to use the key to unlock/lock the door in order for the lock cylinder lever to clear the opening in the door. Save the outside handle/rods/bolts/linkage to interior handle. Hood ...
Page 32 Do not open the hood all the way. This allows you to access the lower hinge bolts with the ratchet. Disconnect the hood lamp electrical connection. Remove the lower hinge bolts at the hood (13mm socket). Hood lamp connected. Hood lamp disconnected. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 33 While one person holds the hood steady, unbolt the upper hood bolts from the hinges (13 mm), then carefully unclip the struts from the hood. Lift the hood off the hinges (one person per side). Remove the struts, hinges, and ball studs (13 mm). Label and save the hinges. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 34: Radiator/Coolant Reservoir
Radiator/Coolant Reservoir  Drain the coolant from the system into a container or bucket before removing the Reservoir and Radiator. Avoid spilling any coolant. Dispose of all coolant properly – a local garage or parts store can do this for you. ...
Page 35 Remove the lower reservoir bolt using a 10mm socket. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 36 Remove the upper tank bolts using a 10mm socket. Disconnect the coolant level electrical connector. Lift the reservoir out of the engine bay. Drain any remaining coolant from the reservoir. Save the reservoir. Radiator If you have not done so already, disconnect the inlet and outlet hoses from the radiator as well as the hoses from the expansion tank, if you did not remove them when removing the tank.
Page 37 If you plan to use the optional Heater and A/C unit, you will need to remove the Pressure Sensor from the refrigerant line. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 38  If the pressure sensor was damaged on your donor car see below for the replacement part info: OEM Corvette Pressure Sensor (with 3 wires to connect through C150 to PCM), (Part Number 22664328 (square style harness connector), or Part Number 22601619 (Round style connector)) and O ring.
Page 39: Horn Assembly
Disconnect the fan motor electrical plugs and remove the wires/wire looms from the shroud assembly. Although the radiator and fan shroud assembly can be removed as one piece, if there is not enough room to do so, pull the fan shroud assembly out of the retaining slots on the radiator. Save the condenser radiator and fan shroud assembly (fans, motors, shroud), A/C Pressure Switch.
Page 40: Windshield Wiper
Windshield Wiper  13 mm socket, ratchet, pry bar.  Wiper arm Remove the wiper shroud. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 41 Unbolt the wiper arm from the tapered shaft using a 13mm socket. Pry the wiper arm off of the shaft. Unbolt the wiper transmission. Disconnect the wiper motor electrical plug. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 42: Exhaust
Save the Wiper arm assembly. Exhaust  The exhaust pipes can be heavy and difficult to handle by yourself – having 2 people to remove the exhaust works best.  15 mm socket, 13 mm socket, extension, ratchet. Before removing the exhaust pipes, remove the blue electrical plug retainers from the Oxygen sensors then unplug the oxygen sensor electrical connectors.
Page 43 Unbolt the H-pipe from the muffler assembly flanges using a 15 mm socket. Unbolt the H-pipe from the exhaust manifold flanges using a 15 mm socket. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 44 Unbolt the H-pipe to Bell Housing flange bolts (15 mm socket). Unbolt the H-pipe bracket to Bell Housing bolts (15 mm). www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 45: Engine Removal/Suspension/Transmission
Unbolt the H-pipe hangers with a 13 mm socket. Remove the H-pipe. Remove both muffler assemblies. Engine Removal/Suspension/Transmission  When the corvette was assembled at the factory, the engine, suspension and transmission were installed from below as one assembly. Since most of us don’t have a lift at home it will be easiest to remove the suspension and transmission from under the car, then raise the engine out of the car.
Page 46  Engine, Computer PCM and TAC Module, Wiring harnesses, Front/Rear Control Arms, Brakes, Spindles, Outer CV Joints. Engine: Under Car Remove the torque tube pan bolts with a 5/16” socket. If you own an air compressor and an impact gun or air ratchet, you’ll be thanking yourself – performing this step by hand is pretty tiresome and seems to take forever! www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 47 Remove the fuel tank pans with a 13 mm socket. Disconnect the Primary Oxygen sensors from the manifolds. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 48 Disconnect the ground strap behind the exhaust manifold on the driver’s side (15 mm). If your donor car is an Automatic, place a drain pan under the coolant lines, then disconnect the coolant lines at the passenger side (below the starter) with and ¾” and 5/8” wrenches. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 49 Unbolt the line clamp nearest the bell housing (10 mm), and move the line to access the bolts mounting the torque tube to the bell housing. Also be sure to leave room to access the Engine Oil Level sensor. Disconnect the Engine Oil Temperature sensor. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 50 Disconnect the Engine Oil Level sensor – it may be necessary to rotate the sensor housing (1 1/8” wrench) to access the clip. Once the plug clip is pointing down it may help to use a flathead screw driver to unclip the plug (See photos). Engine Oil Level Sensor Rotation.
Page 51 Engine Oil Level Sensor removal. Unbolt the motor mounts with an 18mm socket.  Brace the torque tube before proceeding any further. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 52 Remove the flywheel access plug from the bottom of the bell housing and loosen the drive shaft clamp bolt. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 53 Unbolt the bell housing from the torque tube. Carefully pry the torque tube away from the bell housing to break the seal – this makes engine removal easier. Unclip the wiring harness connection at the upper left bell housing bolt. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 54 If you haven’t done so already, disconnect the battery. Before removing the electrical connections on the starter, it may be easier to unbolt the starter, lower it slightly and support it, then remove the two connections with an 8 mm wrench and a 13 mm wrench. Disconnect the Crankshaft Position sensor.
Page 55 Unbolt the ground wire next to the Crankshaft Position Sensor (15 mm). Unclip the engine wiring harness clamp on the driver side behind the exhaust manifold. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 56 Unclip the wiring harness clamp at the front of the engine’s left bank (driver side) in between the cross member and the leaf spring. If you do choose to unbolt the front clamp (13 mm), save the bolt – you will need it to relocate the alternator. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 57 Unbolt the Air Conditioning Compressor bolts (15mm), and remove the compressor for added clearance when removing the engine. If you have trouble removing the compressor from the engine bay, you can tie it to the frame rail so it’s out of the way with zip ties, a bungee cord etc. Engine: Above Car Disconnect the Intake Air Temperature and Mass Airflow sensors.
Page 58 Unbolt the 4 EBTCM bracket bolts (13 mm). Unbolt the steering gear nut (18 mm) then remove the steering gear bolt. Lift the EBTCM/BPMV unit and bracket out of the engine bay. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 59 The design of the power steering system allows you to disconnect the power steering system without causing any fluid to leak. However, it may be helpful to disconnect the power steering reservoir line, and move it out of the way. Since the EBTCM has been removed, you can place a drain pan under the car and catch the power steering fluid.
Page 60 Using a 15 mm socket, take the tension off of the accessory belt and remove. Remove the power steering pulley to gain access to the power steering pump bolts. To do this you will need a puller – if you do not own one, you can rent one from almost any auto parts store. If you cannot prevent the outer wrench from turning while you turn the inner wrench and the wrench is long enough, you can use the engine cross member to brace the wrench while you turn the inner wrench (See pictures below).
Page 61 Using the engine cross member to brace the outer wrench. Remove the power steering pump (13 mm). www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 62 Unbolt the power steering reservoir (15 mm wrench or socket). Move the pump and reservoir out of the way. Unbolt the intermediate steering shaft lower bolt (13 mm). You will need a pry bar to remove the shaft from the joint. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 63 Disconnect the power steering plug.  Disconnect the A/C compressor electrical connection. The A/C compressor is fastened to the engine using 3 bolts and 1 stud. Unbolt the top bolts (15mm socket). Use a 7 mm wrench to advance the stud. The bolts will not come out of the sleeves in the compressor all the way, but www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 64 just enough to remove the compressor from the engine. Remove the belt (15 mm socket). Move the compressor off to the side, making sure to tie it securely out of the way. Disconnect the brake booster vacuum hose. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 65 Disconnect the throttle body motor electrical plug. Disconnect the alternator connections (13 mm), wiring clamp behind the alternator. Disconnect the engine coolant temperature sensor plug. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 66 Unbolt and remove the Alternator (15 mm). Save the 2 Alternator Bolts. Before relieving fuel pressure in the fuel rails, have a rag ready to absorb the fuel. To relieve the pressure, unscrew the cap at the end of the rail, then press the valve in with a punch or a flathead screw driver.
Page 67 Disconnect the fuel line(s) from the rail with a fuel fitting release tool (a pretty inexpensive set of plastic clips that you can find at just about any auto parts store i.e.: NAPA. These will also come in handy when removing the fuel tanks). ...
Page 68 Disconnect fuel injector electrical plugs and coil main connections (one on each side of the engine). Disconnect the EVAP solenoid connection. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 69 Disconnect the “AIR” Plug. Disconnect the Throttle Position Sensor. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 70 Remove the “AIR” manifolds from the exhaust manifolds (10 mm wrench or socket – socket works best on the Right side). Tie the “AIR” lines out of the way. Remove the front wheels (¾” socket). www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 71 Disconnect the brake fluid level sensor plug from the Master Cylinder, head light harness plugs, engine ground on driver frame rail. Disconnect the ABS plugs and wiring clips from the cross member (passenger side access is easiest through the wheel well). Unclip the harness from the harness clamp near the Driver Engine Mount.
Page 72 Unbolt the tie rod ends from the spindle (18 mm wrench, 6 mm Hex wrench). To remove the rod end from the spindle, hit the rod end through the spindle with a dead blow hammer. If this does not work, you may need to use a ball joint fork.
Page 73 Support the lower control arm with a jack. Unbolt the shock from the tower (15 mm wrench). Slowly lower the jack. To move the shock out of the way it may be necessary to pry the shock out of the tower the rest of the way.
Page 74 Place jack under Cross member and unbolt (21 mm). Lower the jack and remove the Cross member/Front Suspension Assembly out from under the car. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 75 Make sure the chain you are using to lift the engine will not break anything such as the fuel lines, coil packs etc. Lift the engine up and out slightly to gain access to the electrical plugs/grounds/wire looms at the rear of the engine – 2 passenger looms, 1 driver harness loom, 1 ground (driver). Harness Connection –...
Page 76 Harness Connection – Passenger side. Ground and harness Clamp at rear of Driver Side. Unplug the knock sensor. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 77 Unplug the Engine Oil Pressure Sensor (EOP). Unplug the Camshaft Position Sensor. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 78 Unplug the Manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor (MAP). Route the harness away from the engine. Slowly lift the engine OUT (not up). www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 79: Cross Member/Front Suspension Tear-Down
 The engine must be OUT far enough so the drive shaft is all the way out of the bell housing before lifting the engine up and out of the engine bay. Move the A/C compressor off to the side if you haven’t done so already. Check for any fuel lines, EVAP lines, or electrical wires/components that are still connected or in the way.
Page 80 Disconnect the rear harness connection (Passenger Side) from the E-brake line. Move the rear harness connection out of the way. Disconnect the ABS plug from the hub. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 81 Unbolt the shock (13 mm socket). The shock also uses a welded nut on the back, so all you need to do is loosen the bolt head with the 13 mm socket. The shock may pop up as you finish unbolting it. Disconnect the brake line from the unions above the transmission.
Page 82 Rear Leaf Spring Lock Washer. Rear Leaf Spring Bracket/Cross Member bolt removal. Disconnect the E-brake clip from the spindle, and unbolt the bracket (15 mm). www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 83 Disconnect the ground, and line clamp on the driver side from the frame. For Automatic Transmission donors: Unbolt the shifter cable bracket (15 mm). www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 84 Unbolt the cable retaining bracket (13 mm). Remove all electrical connections from the shifter box, the Main Harness 20pt Plug, and harness clips from the transmission and cross member before lowering. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 85 Transmission harness Clip. Transmission Main Harness Connection.  Before unbolting the cross member bolts, be sure the weight of the assembly is still supported by the jack stands. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 86: Electrical
Place a transmission jack or a floor jack with cup under the assembly. Unbolt the cross member (21 mm deep socket). SLOWLY lower the transmission/torque tube/cross member assembly checking that all brake lines and wiring have been disconnected. Unbolt the tie rod from the spindle (18 mm), then from the cross member (24 mm). Save the Tie Rod Assemblies and hardware.
Page 87: Fuel Tanks
Fuel Tanks  If there is still fuel in the tanks, use caution not to drop them as you lower them out of the car.  Fuel line disconnect tool ( ”, ”), Flathead Screwdriver  Fuel tanks, lines, filter, cross-tube. Passenger Disconnect tank cross over hose using a flathead screw driver to loosen the clamps.
Page 88 Removing Fuel Line. Unplug the fuel sender electrical connection (already unplugged in previous pictures). Disconnect the fuel tank vapor line. Some Corvettes have a quick connect fitting, others you may have to cut the line. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 89 Slowly lower the tank. This may take some effort as the tank is wedged tightly into place. You may have to pry (carefully!!) the neck away from the frame to get the tank out. Driver Disconnect quick connect fittings at the tank. Use the ”...
Page 90: Emergency Brake
Unclip the fuel tank wiring harness from the frame. Emergency Brake  Flathead Screwdriver, 10, 13, 15 mm socket, 13 mm wrench  Emergency Brake handle, cables, Seat Belt Buckle. Convertible Donor Remove the folding top stowage compartment lid extension panel. Open the folding top stowage compartment lid.
Page 91 Remove the caps covering the retaining nuts at the rear of the console and remove the nuts (10 mm). Remove the retaining nuts at the front of the console. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 92 Lift the trim plate up at the back and slide slightly rearward to expose the electrical connections. Unplug the fuel door switch and accessory outlets. Remove the push pins and covers from the Passenger seat front adjuster legs (slide them forward). Unbolt the front adjuster legs (15 mm).
Page 93 This is where moving the seat forward before disconnecting the battery will save you time. If you have the ability to put power to the seat motor, do so and move the seat forward to access the rear seat bolts. If you cannot move the seat forward, you can still gain access to the rear bolts by performing the following steps: Remove the recliner handle (Flathead screwdriver).
Page 94 Disconnect the seat belt harness clip. Unbolt the track and remove. Unbolt and save the Seat Belt Buckle. Pull the carpet away from the E-Brake handle. Unbolt the E-brake (3 Torx T-40 bolts). Unbolt the E-brake boot retaining nuts (10 mm). www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 95 Unclip the electrical connection. Disconnect the rear cables from the retaining clip. Press in the clips on the front cable and slide the cable through the E-brake bracket, lifting the cable through the slot. Drill out the rivets holding the bracket (Picture below shows cables still attached (it is easier to leave the bracket riveted in place to remove the cables, but you can still remove the cables if you have already removed the bracket from the frame.) Pull the E-brake forward, out of the car.
Page 96: Trim Plate - Ip Accessory
 The following steps are required to remove the remaining wiring/components from the car. Labeling each connection as you disconnect them will help you to recognize what you need/don’t need when you get to the wiring stage of your GTM build. Trim Plate –...
Page 97 Unscrew retainer screws next to the lighter, behind the grill plate, and behind the ashtray (T-15 Torx). Pull the trim plate rearward. Disconnect the electrical connection from the lighter. You may need to lightly pry the plug clips past the rib on the lighter to remove the plug. Remove the trim plate.
Page 98: Knee Bolster
Knee Bolster  Flathead Screwdriver, T-15 Torx. Remove console and trim plate if you haven’t done so already. Remove the Fog lamp/Trunk Release switch – pry at the bottom to release. Disconnect the electrical plug. Unscrew the retaining bolt behind the switch, and the two screws under the knee bolster (T-15 Torx). Lift firmly at the sides pulling rearward.
Page 99: Steering Column
Remove the Knee Bolster. Steering Column  If the airbags have not been deployed on your donor, follow the disassembly instructions to avoid causing the airbags to accidentally deploy. The airbags deploy quickly with a lot of force so you do not want to have your head or any body part near the airbag if it deploys without warning.
Page 100 Remove the bolster bracket screws by sliding a socket (7 mm) with extension through access holes in the bottom of the bracket. Remove the bracket. Unbolt upper steering shaft coupling bolt (11 mm). Remove upper shaft. You will have to pry it off. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 101 Disable SIR – Remove the positive connection clip from the yellow connector at the base of the column, then unplug the connection. Remove courtesy light. Pry the Sound Insulator Panel front clips loose, then, with a short screwdriver pry the retaining washer off. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 102 Remove panel. Unplug the yellow plug behind the steering column brace. Unplug the SDM fuse (#16 in IP fuse block under passenger kick panel). This is a safety feature to prevent the air bags from deploying. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 103 Remove the airbag – unscrew the bolts holding the restraint module to the steering wheel (T-30). You may need to have someone hold the wheel or lower shaft to the break the two screws loose. Or if you do not have an extra set of hands available, you can hold the Torx screwdriver with a set of locking pliers, and steady the wheel with your other hand.
Page 104 After removing the connection position assurance clip (CPA), unplug the module electrical connection. Unscrew the ground connection (T-25). Unscrew the horn connection. Disconnect all electrical connections under the column, attached to the column brace. Unbolt the lower steering column nuts (deep 13 mm). www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 105 Unbolt the upper steering column nuts (deep 13 mm). Pull the column towards you, rotating clockwise to allow the lower bracket and telescoping motor (if equipped) to clear the column brace. Save the column, including all wiring, and the upper shaft. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 106 Now you will need to disable the column lock pin to allow the wheel to rotate freely. The first step is to cut the purple and orange wires leading to the lock module on the column. Strip a small section of insulation off the orange and purple wires (the end of the wire leading to the column, not the plug) then simultaneously touch the purple wire to the positive side of a battery and the orange wire to the negative side of the battery.
Page 107: Ignition
Ignition  7, 10 mm, Flathead Screwdriver.  Ignition Module, wiring, Ignition key. Unbolt the screw to the left of the Ignition (7 mm). Unbolt the 2 bolts connecting ignition to stereo bracket (10 mm). Automatic donors – Disconnect the park cable by inserting the key, turn the ignition to ON, and use a screw driver to release the lock tab at the underside.
Page 108: Shifter (Automatic)
Shifter (Automatic)  Flathead Screwdriver, 10 mm socket, ratchet. Remove the four retaining nuts holding the shifter assembly to the tunnel. Disconnect the park electrical connection from the front of the shifter. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 109 From under the car, unclamp the shifter from the tunnel wall. Press the clamp arms inward while pulling back. Pull the cable out of the bracket by sliding the cable through the slot in the bracket. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 110: Upper Dash Pad
Upper Dash Pad  7, 10 mm socket, Flathead Screwdriver Remove the Glove Box: Open box, reach behind it and push the plugs through the access lower bolts. (10 mm). Unbolt side and top screws. Slowly drop the box down enough to remove the light plug. Remove the Glove box. Remove the Windshield Defroster grille by prying up with a screwdriver.
Page 111: Passenger Air Bag
Remove the dash. Passenger Air Bag  10 mm socket. Disconnect the electrical connection. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 112: Stereo And Heater Controls
Unbolt the 4 retaining nuts (10 mm). Remove the air bag. To remove the bracket, unbolt the 9 bolts holding it in place. Unclip the heater hose (2 locations). Stereo and Heater Controls  10 mm socket. Unbolt the 4 bolts holding the Aluminum center bracket in place (10 mm). Slide the bracket out of place.
Page 113: Dash Cluster
Disconnect the stereo and heater electrical connections. Lift the radio out of the car. Dash Cluster  7 mm socket. Unscrew the 2 retaining bolts at the bottom of the gauge pod (7 mm). Lift the pod away from the pedal bracket.
Page 114 Lower the Bose Module. Unbolt the throttle bolts (13 mm). Remove the pedal and save. Disconnect the Master Cylinder pushrod by removing the clip on the inside of the pedal, then push the pin through (towards the outside of the car). www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 115 Unplug the brake pedal sensor. This plug is a little stubborn, so it may take some effort. Label and save the switch and wiring. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 116 For Manual Transmission donors: Remove the cruise control release switch bracket bolts. Move the switch and bracket out the way. Disconnect the clutch Master Cylinder push rod from the pedal. Unbolt the clutch pedal bracket retaining nuts. Remove the clutch pedal bracket stud plate. Unbolt the 4 brake booster mounting nuts (13 mm).
Page 117: Hood Release Handle And Cables
Hood Release Handle and Cables  Phillips screwdriver, T-15 Torx.  Hood Release Handle and Cables, screws, Latches. Unscrew the 2 screws at the front of the handle (Phillips screwdriver). Unscrew the 1 screw behind the handle (Pull handle to gain access) (T-15). Unbolt the hood latches.
Page 118: Trim Panels
Pull the handle and cables out of the car by pulling the handle backwards, drawing the cables through the firewall. Save the Handle/cable assembly and the latches. Trim Panels  Flathead Screwdriver, T-50 Torx  Seat Belts. Door Sill Remove the door opening panel by prying the 2 clips free. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 119: Side Panel (Coupe)
Unsnap the 3 clips holding the door sill panel to the doorsill. Remove the panel. Side Panel (Coupe) Pull the panel away from the sill by prying up with a screwdriver. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 120: Upper Roof Bow Panel (Coupe)
Slide the seat belt through the slot in the panel. Carefully pry the remaining clips and remove the panel. Upper Roof Bow Panel (Coupe) Remove the retaining pins from the outside edge of the panel. Starting at the center of the panel, pry the clips free. Remove the panel.
Page 121: Hvac Unit
Remove the upper retaining pin. Pry the panel away from the door sill lip. Remove the speaker cover by prying CAREFULLY at the top or bottom center, working your way around the cover. Remove the retaining pin. HVAC Unit  The procedure for removal of the HVAC Unit differs between Automatic and Manual Transmission cars.
Page 122 Unbolt the heater pipe to core bolt (10 mm). Snip factory zip tie, and remove lines. Remove the accumulator hose to evaporator bolt (13 mm). www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 123 Remove the canister retaining nuts (deep 10 mm socket). Remove the A/C Compressor. Save the A/C compressor and Accumulator canister if you plan to use the optional Heat/AC option. Remove the rubber drain tube protruding from the firewall. Remove the Right hand lower closeout panel in the Passenger Cockpit. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 124 Remove the Left hand side window defroster duct if you haven’t done so already, the Inside Air Temperature duct, and the Inside Air Temperature duct muffler (twist off). Unplug the DRL. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 125 Remove Left hand floor heater duct bolts (7/32”). Remove Duct. Remove lower floor duct – Passenger side (twist ¼ turn clockwise). www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 126 Remove Right hand side window defroster duct by prying the clips out. Unclip sun load sensor from right hand side of defroster duct (if equipped). Remove temperature valve electric actuator connection. Remove lower floor heater duct – Passenger. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 127 Remove lower portion of the floor heater, then unscrew the retaining screws. Remove the duct. Remove the carpet outlet duct (twist ¼ turn counter clockwise). Unclip the blower motor electrical connection (reach under the dash support beam just above the kick panel/firewall junction).
Page 128 Unplug the vacuum electric solenoid connection. Disconnect the blower motor control module plug. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 129 Remove the Instrument Panel vacuum source connection (Purple hose connected to black elbow fitting/hose). Unbolt the 3 motor retaining bolts (7/32”). Remove the motor with fan. Unbolt the windshield defroster bolts. Remove the windshield defroster duct. Unbolt the 2 retaining bolts in the cockpit. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 130 Unbolt the 2 retaining nuts on the firewall (10 mm). Remove the HVAC Unit. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 131: Wiring, Computer, Fuse Panel
Wiring, Computer, Fuse Panel  7, 10 mm socket, ” socket and extension or deep ” socket.  Computer, TAC Module, Computer Brackets, Wiring, Body Control Module, Fuse Panels. Remove the rear compartment wiring and grounds from all clips, speakers and the roof bow if you haven’t done so already.
Page 132 Push the Wiper motor plug through the firewall into the cockpit. Disconnect the 20 point plug with yellow tape, vacuum line, Throttle Actuator Control Module (TAC) plug, and the brown under-hood fuse panel plug (the center plug in the bottom of the panel – 9/32”). Push the wiring through the firewall.
Page 133: Donor Part Preparation
Push the plug for the positive cable linking the two fuse panels through the firewall. Unclip the electrical connection next to the fuse panel (kick panel). Remove the harness from the car and save. Unscrew the vacuum canister (7 mm). Unscrew the outer computer bracket (7 mm).
Page 134 Unbolt the Oil Temperature Sensor (10 mm). Remove the gasket then clean and dry the machined surface of the engine block. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 135 Apply some of the RTV to one side of the Oil Temperature Bypass Plate and place it on the engine block. Apply some RTV to the outside face of the bypass plate, then bolt down the Oil Temperature Block-off Plate (4mm Hex). www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 136 Intake  Pliers, 8 mm socket, Ratchet, Flathead Screwdriver.  Intake Relocation Components (FFR# 25713).  Clean the intake before removing to avoid any dirt getting in the engine through the heads, particularly the area where the head meets the intake. Disconnect the knock sensor wiring from the fuel rail stop bracket.
Page 137 Remove the PCV tube from the valve cover. Depending on the year of your donor, you will have to either unbolt or unclip (shown) the PCV lines from the intake on the passenger side. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 138 Remove the PCV line from the port on the passenger valve cover (rear). Remove the PCV line from the front of the intake just behind the throttle body. Save the PCV Line – you will re-attach it after you rotate the valve covers. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 139 PCV Tube Removal from Front of Intake. PCV Tube Removed from Engine. Unclip the EVAP solenoid from the intake. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 140 Unclip the EVAP line from the intake behind the throttle body by pushing down on the round section of the white clip (the other side of the clip as three tabs that will spread allowing the tube to be pulled off) and pull the line off of the port on the throttle body.
Page 141 EVAP Line Removed. Unclip the vapor vent hose from the throttle body. Remove the second PCV hose from the top, passenger side of throttle body. Save the hose. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 142 Unbolt the intake manifold bolts (8 mm), leaving the fuel rail stop in place. Turn the intake around and bolt in back on using either a clockwise or counter clockwise pattern. The factory spec is to make one pass tightening the bolts to 44 in-lb (5 Nm) then make a second pass and tighten to 89 in-lb (10 Nm).
Page 143 If you didn’t remove the hose leading from the MAP sensor to the brake booster when you removed the engine, remove it now. Plug the port with the supplied cap (FFR# 25711). Remove the Vapor vent hose from under the throttle body. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 144 Cap off the Vapor port on the throttle body with the supplied cap (FFR# 25712). www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 145 Valve Covers  10 mm socket, Ratchet. Unplug each coil pack by first removing the Positive Assurance clip, then the plug itself. You may have to unbolt the driver rear and passenger front coil pack (97-98) the get the wiring out from between the coil pack /PCV boss.
Page 146 Unplugging Coil Pack. Unbolt (97-98 Corvette - 10 mm) or unclip (99+ Corvette) the main harness plug from the valve cover. Unclip the harness clamps from the coil pack bolts. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 147 Remove the harness from the engine. Be sure to label the harness. Unplug the spark plug wires from the spark plugs. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 148 Unbolt the valve cover bolts (10 mm). Repeat the steps for the Passenger side. Bolt the driver valve cover onto the passenger side (the PCV boss will now be at the front of the engine). www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 149 Bolt the passenger valve cover onto the driver side of the engine (the Oil Filler Neck will now be at the back). Reconnect the wiring harness – the driver side harness should remain on the driver side and vice versa. Passenger Side.
Page 150 Driver Side. Make sure you retighten the coil pack that you left loose to get the coil pack wires out in step 3. Plug in the Spark Plug Wires. Clip the harness back onto the valve cover bolts. Reconnect the PCV to the front passenger port. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 151 Reconnect the PCV to the and front port on the driver side. Re-clip (97-98 Corvette) or bolt (99+ Corvette) the PCV line onto the Intake Manifold. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 152 Reconnect the hose to the lower port on the Intake Manifold. Reconnect the second PCV hose to the Valve cover, then to the upper port on the Throttle Body. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 153 Reconnect the EVAP line to the passenger side lower Intake Manifold port (just in front of the Throttle Body). Clip the line back into the Intake Manifold. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 154: Fuel Tanks
Reconnect the line to the EVAP modules front and rear. Fuel Tanks 1997-2002 Fuel Tanks  7 mm socket, Ratchet, drill. Drain the tanks. Disconnect the quick connect fuel lines from the sender backing plate. On the Corvette passenger side tank (the GTM driver side tank), unscrew the bolts holding the backing plate in place (7 mm).
Page 155 Remove the internals from the tank, being careful not to bend the fuel level float (this will affect the accuracy of your fuel level gauge if bent). Remove the label next to the opening in the tank. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 156  Before drilling the hole, make sure that the hole will allow enough room for the nut to rest flush against the inside wall of the tank once you’ve installed the bulkhead fitting. A good way to check is to place the nut from the bulkhead fitting against the inside of the tank to determine the best location and trace the inside diameter of the nut onto the outside of the tank.
Page 157 Clean out any remaining debris from the tank and de-burr the edges (if necessary) of the hole so the bulkhead fitting fits tightly in the opening. Place one of the Teflon washers on the fitting, then place a small amount of RTV on the fitting to help seal the hole and insert the bulkhead fitting into the hole.
Page 158 Reach into the tank and slide the washer onto the fitting then tighten the nut onto the fitting. If your arms are too big, you may have to have someone else do this for you since the opening in the tank is only a few inches in diameter.
Page 159 Cap off the port on the fuel tank that was previously used on the Corvette for the filler neck with FFR# 25989 (’04 tank shown). Clamp the cap in place using the supplied clamp, FFR# 10664 ( ” socket or flathead screwdriver). www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 160 For the ’97 – ’98 tanks, you will also have to cap off the small port on the tank previously used as a vent (next to the filler port) using the supplied cap, FFR# 25990. Clamp the cap in place using the supplied clamp, FFR# 11206 ( ”...
Page 161 2003-2004 Fuel Tanks  7 mm socket, Ratchet, drill. Drain the tanks. Remove the retainer ring from the top of the tank by rotating it out of place. Lift the internals out of the tank, being careful not to bend the fuel level float (this will affect the accuracy of your fuel level gauge if bent).
Page 162  Before drilling the hole, make sure that the hole will allow enough room for the nut to rest flush against the inside wall of the tank once you’ve installed the bulkhead fitting. A good way to check is to place the nut from the bulkhead fitting against the inside of the tank to determine the best location and trace the inside diameter of the nut onto the outside of the tank.
Page 163 Mark the center of the circle you traced and drill a hole in the back of the tank. Clean out any remaining debris from the tank and de-burr the edges (if necessary) of the hole so the bulkhead fitting fits tightly in the opening. Place one of the Teflon washers on the fitting, then place a small amount of RTV on the fitting to help seal the hole and insert the bulkhead fitting into the hole.
Page 164 Pull the hoses out of the Corvette cross over tube. Place the Corvette Cross-over hose in a vise and trim off approximately 1.25” off of the 2.75” diameter collar. You may have to cut a small section, then rotate the hose until you cut all the way around the collar.
Page 165 Repeat for the other end. Place the hose in the vise again. Using a hacksaw, cut the corrugated hose about 4 ribs up from the section you just cut (See photo). www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 166 Repeat for the other end and de-bur each end. Press the tube/collar assemblies into the tank and lock them in place by rotating the collar into the slots molded into the tank. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 167 Press the black plastic clip into position. This prevents the collars from rotating out of position. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 168 Install the internals you removed previously and set the retainer ring back into place. CAREFULLY shave away the flexible hose at the barbed elbow molded into the top of the sending unit on the Corvette driver side tank until it is just flexible enough to be removed from the barbed elbow.
Page 169 Cap off the port on the fuel tank that was previously used on the Corvette for the filler neck with FFR# 25989 (’04 tank shown). Clamp the cap in place using the supplied clamp, FFR# 10664 ( ” socket or flathead screwdriver). www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 170: Steering Column (Non-Telescoping)
Steering Column (Non-Telescoping)  Blow torch, T-25 Torx, 21 mm socket, Ratchet, Cut-off wheel/Sawzall/Hacksaw, Flathead screwdriver, Snap-ring Pliers.  Steering column, Upper steering shaft, FFR# 25459 – Steering Wheel Boss.  You will need a steering wheel puller to get the wheel off the column. You can rent one at your local parts store if you don’t own one.
Page 171 Slide the lower cover over the tilt lever. The easiest way to remove the lower cover is to tilt the front edge of the cover down so the slot for the tilt lever is vertical (see photo). Then slide the cover over the tilt lever.
Page 172 Carefully remove the snap ring located in front of the plastic SIR coil assembly. Clip the wire ties holding the column harness sections to the column. Remove the coil assembly. SIR snap ring removal. SIR coil removed. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 173 Remove the thin washer behind the coil assembly. SIR Washer Removal. Remove the steering shaft seal – discard. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 174 Remove the sensor retainer (unclip it from the bearing assembly – this can be done by hand), then the steering wheel position sensor (if equipped) - discard. Remove the plastic retaining clip holding the adapter and bearing assembly with a flathead screwdriver (you will not need it).
Page 175 Now you will need to shorten the steering column jacket. Cut the jacket, leaving 5.25” (measured from the junction of the column jacket and the tilt head assembly - see photo). Be careful not to cut the shaft inside the column jacket. The column jacket will also need a groove cut along the passenger side 1”...
Page 176 Remove the Steering column brace clips by tapping them out of the slots in the column brace (See photo). Remove the lower column by heating the lower portion with a torch until the injection molded plastic pours out, then pull the lower shaft off of the upper shaft (you do not need the lower shaft). www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 177 To fit under the dash in the full up position, the top section of the cover will need to be trimmed roughly 1 ” in from the rear edge of the cover (See photo). www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 178: Steering Column (Telescoping)
Steering Column (Telescoping)  T-25, T-40 Torx, ¼”-12 point socket, 15mm wrench/socket, 21 mm socket, Ratchet, Cut-off wheel/Sawzall/Hacksaw, Flathead screwdriver, Snap-ring Pliers, ” drill bit, drill, punch, vise grip pliers.  Steering column, Upper steering shaft, FFR# 25459 – Steering Wheel Boss. ...
Page 179 Remove the four Torx head bolts holding the actuator to the column jacket. If you do not have an inverted Torx, you can use a ¼”-12 point socket. Pull the actuator off of the drive ball. Save the Actuator and motor assembly. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 180 Bend the side tabs of the motor mount bracket to about 45 degrees from the mounting face of the bracket. Now you will need to shorten the steering column jacket. Cut the jacket just after the telescope slider and remove the lower portion of the jacket – you will not need it. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 181  Be careful not to cut the shaft or the telescoping sleeve inside the column jacket. Do not allow the blade/cutting disc etc. to go into the column much further than the thickness of the outside jacket. Remove the Steering Column Brace Clips by tapping them out of the grooves in the column brace (See Photo: Non-Telescoping Column shown).
Page 182 Remove the tilt spring. To avoid shooting the spring across the room, use a pair of vise grip pliers to hold the spring while you pry the spring out of position. After the tilt pins are pressed in at the factory, the tilt head is punched, pressing a small amount of material over the tilt pin –...
Page 183 Thread the tilt pin removal tool supplied in the puller kit into the pin. Then hand-tighten the nut until the sleeve contacts the tilt head. Using a wrench or socket on the end of the tool and a wrench for the nut, continue tightening the nut until the pin is out.
Page 184 Before removing the telescoping, internally splined shaft you will have to pry the stop pressed into the shaft at the factory out of the way. Once you have done this, you can slide the shaft over the Teflon coated lower portion of the upper shaft. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 185 Now you will need to shorten the lower shaft. However, before doing so be sure to take note of where in relation to the internal splines the stop was made because you will have to re-create this feature after you cut the shaft. Measure 5½” from the top of the shaft, mark the location and cut the shaft – keep the lower portion.
Page 186: Seat Belts
Drill a ” hole through the flat faces of the shaft ½” in from the end of the shaft. Slide the lower shaft back over the upper shaft and re-create the factory stop.  If you are preparing the donor parts before receiving your kit, the following steps can be done once the column is in the car, but it is easier to perform them with the column off the car.
Page 187 Inside of each belt retracting mechanism there is a plastic stopper (See photo). Remove these stoppers by squeezing the two plastic tabs external of the retracting mechanism or by pushing the plastic stoppers towards the large bolt hole. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 188 Now check that a quick, hard jerk on the belt will lock the seatbelt mechanisms. Reattach the white plastic covers with the 3 Torx screws. Remove the buckle and stalk from the seat track using an 18mm wrench. It may be difficult to loosen, which is normal.
Page 189 The stalk must be shortened to operate in the GTM. There is a large rivet just inside the plastic covering of the stalk. Mark a line of the plastic approximately 1½” to 2” from the bottom of the plastic. Trim the plastic very carefully using a razor or tin snips. Be extremely careful not to cut into the thin metal stalk.
Page 190 Now that the rivet is exposed it must be removed. Be extremely careful removing the rivet, taking care not to scratch or puncture the metal stalk. To remove the rivet, use a center drill or small diameter bit to drill a guide hole in the center of the rivet. Then work up in bit sizes until you can shear one of the rivet sides.
Page 191: Wiring Harness/Computer
Once the rivet is sheared off, do not be alarmed if the hole in the metal stalk appears elliptical, this is normal. Wiring Harness/Computer  Razor knife, wire snips, saw and/or grinder.  Complete Donor wiring harness. Transmission Tunnel Harness On a clear work surface or section of floor stretch out the harness that runs down the length of the donor driveshaft tube.
Page 192 Strip the tape and sheathing off of the length of the harness. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 193 Starting at the plug that connects to the fuel tank harness separate the harness that connects the fuel tank to the main engine harness. The ground wire from this plug runs through a junction before continuing to the loop connector. Trim the extra wire off of the junction leaving enough wire for a splice.
Page 194 All of these wires except one grey wire run into a large round plug. Trace the solid grey wire that runs apart from the others back to the plug it runs into and trim it a couple inches from the end. The remaining harness is what will be used.
Page 195 The wires for the vehicle speed sensor (which plugs into the differential) also run into this plug and should be kept attached (See photo for detailed view of the vehicle speed sensor). Front End Harness The front end harness needs 3 plugs clipped off of it. It does not need to be stripped for this process. First cut the fuse box plug off of the harness.
Page 196 Cut the two Fan plugs from the Harness about 4 inches into the harness. Set the plugs aside. Dash Harness Lay the Dash harness out on your work surface and spread it out with the fuse box in the middle. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 197 Find the Plug for the Drive by wire Throttle control – it is located near the orange/brown fuse box plug and has a plastic red tab attached. Follow this harness back into the main harness un-wrapping it and separating it as you go. You will have to cut the Firewall plug to separate the wires.
Page 198 When you get to the other end there is an identical plug and the harness will separate cleanly from the main section without cutting any wires. Pull this harness out and set it aside. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 199 Find the OBD II/Engine Scan plug and cut it off leaving about 6” of wire. Find the headlight switch/turn signal plug. You can plug in the stalk to ensure that you have the correct one. Cut the plug off, again leaving 6” of wire. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 200 Find the brake light switch – it has two plugs and the smaller diameter threaded mount. Unplug the rear connector and cut off the front plug (toward the threaded section) leaving 6 inches of wire. Set it aside. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 201 Cut the brown/orange fuse box plug off of the harness leaving six” of each wire and set it aside. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 202 Locate the windshield wiper motor plug. It sticks out separately from the main harness and has a firewall grommet near the plug. Trace this harness back into the main harness about 2 feet to find the plug at the column. Separate the harness from the main section by cutting the three wires that connect them.
Page 203 Engine Harness The engine harness must be stripped down to allow for some of the sensors being relocated due to the intake and valve covers being flipped around to face backwards. On this harness locate the plug for the throttle position sensor, it is out at the end of one bank of injectors and has five wires. Strip the tape off of the harness from this plug back several inches past the first injector plug.
Page 204 Re-tape the harness with the throttle position sensor wires in a separate loom so it can reach back to the new throttle location. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 205 Strip the tape off of the other injector bank down past its first injector. The throttle, air temp sender, and mass air meter wires get taped separately to allow them to reach backward to the air intake area. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 206 The evap solenoid plug needs to be taped separate to reach the opposite side of the intake manifold as before. The alternator wires should also be taped separate from the coolant temp sensor wires back past the last injector. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 207 Tape off the rest of the harness and it is ready to install. You now have all of the component plugs that you will need to complete your car, it is a good idea to hold on to the leftover harness until you are finished because it can be a good source for extra wire or plugs to make components like lights or the gauge pod easy to remove.
Page 208: Computer Bracket
Computer Bracket  The computer bracket is different for 1997-1998 and 1999 and up donors. Unlike the 1999 and up computer bracket, the 1997-1998 computer bracket mounting bosses begin in different planes. Therefore, if you trim all of the 1997-1998 computer bracket mounting bosses down to the main portion of the bracket, the bracket will not mount flush to the steel brackets on the frame.
Page 209 Trim the rear upper boss until it is even with the front upper section of the bracket (See Photo in Step Trim the rear lower boss until it is level with the rear upper boss. Trim the front lower boss until it is level with the front upper section of the bracket. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 210 1999 and up Bracket Trim all of the bosses flush to the main section of the bracket. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 211: Disassembly Of The Kit
Chapter Disassembly of the kit www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 212: Unpacking Your Gtm Kit
Unpacking Your GTM Kit Please note that your boxes are numbered, when you read your packing list you will see that next to each assembly there is a number circled. This is the box number that the assembly was packaged into. After everything is safely in your garage, take the time to open each box and do a physical inventory of all the parts.
Page 213 Before removing the aluminum from the chassis, mark each panel and take pictures of how the panels fit together (i.e. which is on top). Remove any screws holding the panel to the frame and remove the aluminum panels. Keep the #6 screws to help with aluminum positioning later during build-up.
Page 214 Using a ruler and marker, mark the rivet spacing along the centerline of the pen outline that you made on the aluminum.  In most cases we use a 3” rivet spacing when mounting aluminum panels to the chassis and a 2” spacing when mounting panel to panel.
Page 215 Drill the marks with ⅛” drill bit. Position your frame in your workspace with plenty of room to move things around. Use jack-stands or 4” blocks to put the frame 4” above the ground. This is close to ride height, making the suspension easier to position.
Page 216 Having disassembled the donor or obtained the individual parts and prepared and modified them, you are now ready to begin assembly of your car. We will begin with the chassis and address each assembly in a sequential fashion. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 217: Chassis Assembly
Chapter Chassis Assembly www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 218: Steering Rack Installation
Steering Rack Installation  ¾” Socket, ratchet, ¾” Wrench.  Steering system hardware (FFR# 25545, 25524). Install the bushings and sleeves in the steering rack. Thread a jam nut and outer tie rod end onto each of the inner tie rods (Do not to fully tighten the jam nuts against the outer tie rod until the rolling chassis is completed and it is time to align the vehicle.
Page 219: Inner Wheel Wells
Inner Wheel Wells  Eye protection, drill w/#6 hex nut driver, ⅛” drill bits, drill, rivet gun, silicone, caulking gun.  Wheel well front inner (FFR# 25600, 25480, 25651, 25655). Before you install the front suspension, you need to position and install your left and right front inner wheel well aluminum.
Page 220 Using a ” drill bit, drill along the center line of where you outlined the frame on the backside of the aluminum panel. Secure the panel in the original position as received from the factory using the self tapping screws. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 221 Using the drilled panel as a template, attach it to the frame (with the self tapping screws) and drill the ⅛” holes in the frame. Remove the panel from the frame, clean the surface and apply a bead of silicone to the frame where the panel is in contact with the frame rails.
Page 222 Using the ” short rivets, permanently rivet the panel in place.  Do not rivet the rearward few inches on the driver’s side panel yet. This will make installation of the pedal box easier (right around the upper square cutout in the pane – see photo below). www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 223 Using the same process, mount the rear lower splash panels on both the driver and passenger side.  Do not drill or rivet the top edge (flanged upper edge) because the upper splash panel is later riveted in the same location. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 224: Battery Tray And Front/Center Undercarriage Aluminum
Install the center splash panel. These have to be installed before the rear suspension because the upper control arm mounts protrude through this panel. Rivet this panel into place using the above procedure along the frame rails shown below. Battery Tray and Front/Center Undercarriage Aluminum ...
Page 225 Orient the battery tray on the horizontal “X” frame member just behind the steering rack. The holes on the side of the tray should be centered in between the “X” frame. Some aftermarket batteries are larger than the stock Corvette battery, so make sure the front edge of the battery does not interfere with the steering rack.
Page 226 Space out 8 holes and drill the battery tray out where it intersects with the frame using a 3/16” bit. Lay the battery tray back on the frame using the battery tray as a template, and drill the holes on the frame with a ”...
Page 227: Front Suspension
Trace the outline of the 1” and 1.5” square steel tubes. Remove the panel. Following the same procedure as in the Aluminum Panel Prep section, measure the locations for the rivets and drill out the panel. You will not mount this panel until later in the build (See photo from previous step). Apply a bead of silicon to the frame rails the battery tray sits on and rivet the tray on with long 3/16”...
Page 228  Corvette front suspension (complete) and donor hardware for front suspension, lower shock bracket hardware (FFR# 25376, 25352, 25755).  It is helpful here to have someone help you with the installation of the front suspension, since the assembly is heavy and requires aligning the control arms with the holes on the frame. While holding the front suspension assembly in place, install the 4 upper control arm flanged Corvette bolts.
Page 229 The front brake line bracket is installed below the rear upper control arms (on the rear leg of the control arm) and fastened with upper control arm hardware. The smaller index faces the inside of the car. The Corvette used a washer/spacer in between the control arm and the frame. This washer is now the nut side of the upper control arm bolts before the supplied 10mm locknut (FFR# 25376).
Page 230 Install the donor cam bolts on the lower control arms attaching them to the frame. Torque to the specification listed in the Appendix (21mm – bolt head) (same procedure used on driver and passenger side). www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 231: Coil-Over Shock Assembly
Install the lower coil-over mount on the upper surface of the lower control arm. This bracket is installed (FFR# 25714) using the Corvette 7mm shock mount hardware (this bracket is pitched inward). (same procedure used on driver and passenger side) Coil-Over Shock Assembly ...
Page 232 Slide the spring over the damper, and then install the spring hat at the other end of the coil-over assembly. You may have to slide the rubber bumper down on the shaft to install the top hat. Rotate the shock collar to preload the spring.
Page 233: Rear Suspension Mounting To Chassis
Rear Suspension Mounting to Chassis  19mm, 21mm socket, wrench and ratchet.  Corvette rear suspension complete, donor hardware for rear suspension, lower shock bracket hardware.  It is helpful here to have someone help you with the installation of the rear suspension, since the assembly is heavy and requires aligning the control arms with the holes on the frame.
Page 234 Install the rear upper control arm to the frame using the supplied hardware . Torque to the specification in the Appendix (21mm) (same procedure used on driver and passenger side). Install the donor cam bolts on the lower control arms (front mount) attaching them to the frame (21mm). The supplied hardware is for the rear lower control arm attachment point (19mm) Torque to the specification in the Appendix (same procedure used on driver and passenger side).
Page 235: Rear Coil-Over Shock And Mount
Rear Coil-Over Shock and mount  ¾”, ”, 18mm, 24mm socket and wrench, ratchet, jack, grinder.  Assembled coil-over (450lb springs) and coil-over mounting hardware.  The lower shock brackets are side specific, and mount the coil-over to the front of the lower rear control arm.
Page 236 Place the large washer on the lower control arm in the circular recess. Use the ” flanged bolt and nut to attach the lower coil over mount to the lower control arm to the previously used lower shock mount (leave bolt loose for now). www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 237 The ½-2.25” flanged bolt and nut is used for the inboard rear mount (¾” wrench). www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 238 Rear Coil-Over Shock Mounting Lower the coil-over assembly through the upper control arm (the body of the shock down). It is helpful at this time to jack up the lower control arm so the shock will slip in. Attach the upper shock mount to the frame using the supplied hardware and shock spacers (the upper shock spacers are the longer ones, and the lower ones are short).
Page 239: Rear Tie Rod
The 3½” bolts are used in combination with the longer spacers on the upper rear coil-overs. Torque all coil-over hardware to specifications (¾” wrench) (same procedure used on driver and passenger side). Tighten the ” bolt and nut that attach the lower coil over mount to the lower control arm ( ”).
Page 240 The inner tie rod is mounted to the frame using the Corvette nut (24mm wrench). Torque to specification (same procedure used on driver and passenger side). www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 241: Footbox Aluminum
Footbox Aluminum  Eye protection, drill w/#6 hex nut driver, ⅛” drill bits, drill, rivet gun, silicone, caulking gun, #6 self tapping screws.  Driver/passenger footbox aluminum (FFR# 25172, 25174, 25175, 25176, 25173). Using the aluminum installation techniques previously described (aluminum removal and installation) we will now build the driver’s footbox.
Page 242 We now have to install the inner upper wall (FFR# 25175). To get this piece in place, start with it in the driver’s footbox at an angle and lift into place. The upper flange on this panel is flush (horizontally) with the 1.5” frame rail towards the rear of the car and the ¾”...
Page 243 The last piece to be installed is the upper X panel (FFR# 25176). Install the foot box outer wall on both the driver and passenger side; passenger side is shown below in picture (FFR# 25179, 25180). Do not rivet the flange below the lower door hinge mount to the frame yet –...
Page 244 www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 245 Install the outside drop floor piece next on both the driver and passenger side (FFR# 25191, 25192). The front wall on the passenger footbox is installed next (FFR# 24173).  If you are planning on installing heat and air conditioning, perform that installation now according to the instructions included with the Air Conditioning Kit.
Page 246 Install the passenger footbox upper wall panel (FFR# 25855). If air conditioning is not being installed, install the passenger front foot box block off plate (FFR# 25853). www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 247: Steering Column/Shafts
Steering Column/Shafts Non-Telescoping Column  ½”, ” wrenches, ”, ” Hex key.  Steering shaft components, steering system hardware. Slide the flange bearing and bearing retainers on the long/upper steering shaft. The Hex set screw on the bearing should be on the shaft side of the bearing, not the joint side. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 248 The assembly is installed from the cockpit side, carefully snaking the joints and shaft through the lowest hole on the pedal box mounting plate. The lower universal joint now gets attached to the steering rack. This joint is splined and the Hex set screw has to be aligned with the groove on the input shaft on the steering rack.
Page 249 The donor Corvette upper steering assembly must be installed next. The Corvette shaft slides into the hollow long upper shaft previously installed. The steering column is attached to the frame using the ” supplied hardware (FFR# 1040, 11005, 13964). Fully tighten the flange bearing bolts at this time. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 250: (Optional) Telescoping Column
(Optional) Telescoping Column  ”, ½”, ” wrench, ”, ”, ”, 4mm Hex keys, ⅛”, ” drill bits, drill, ” punch, hammer.  Steering shaft, steering system hardware, Telescoping Steering Column adapter Assembly (FFR# 25545, 26022, 25743, 25892). Cut 1 ”...
Page 251 Insert the 10 mm bolt (FFR# 25662) through the Corvette shaft, spacer and 1 ” long shaft, then install the supplied lock nut (FFR# 25376) remove the tape and tighten (15 mm) On the supplied steering shaft (FFR# 26022) measure up from the upper universal joint 8” and cut the shaft.
Page 252 Insert the 7”x ¾” DD shaft into FFR# 25602 up to the 2” mark you made. Measure 1” down from the end of FFR# 26022 you just cut, and drill a ” hole through both shafts. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 253 Remove the ¾” DD tube (FFR# 25867). Drill through the ” pilot holes you just drilled in both the 1”DD and the ¾” DD tubes separately with a ” drill bit. Slide the 7”x ¾” DD tube (FFR# 25867) into the steering shaft (FFR# 26022). Put the assembly in a vise or against something solid that won’t move when you drive the pin in.
Page 254 Slide the flange bearing and bearing retainers (FFR# 12640) on the long/upper steering shaft. The Hex set screw on the bearing should be on the shaft side of the bearing, not the joint side. Install the shaft assembly in the chassis from the cockpit side, carefully snaking the joints and shaft through the lowest hole on the ”...
Page 255 Place the steering column adapter plate on the Corvette steering column in between the steering shaft housing and the mounting plate. Attach the Corvette upper steering assembly to the frame using the ” supplied hardware. In order for the steering column to clear the bottom of the top 1.5” square dash bulkhead tube, you will have to place the supplied washers between the Corvette column bracket and the welded column bracket.
Page 256 Install the ¾” Pillow Block Bearing on the 9”x ¾”DD shaft. Once the Pedal Box is mounted and you have installed the brake light switch bracket, you will be able to mount this bearing, but for now leave just leave the bearing on the shaft. Slide the 9”x ¾”...
Page 257 Drill out the bracket to ” and install two rivnuts in the telescoping actuator frame bracket. Bolt the telescoping actuator column bracket (FFR# 25870) to the actuator with the supplied hardware (FFR# 12336, 10802) ( ” Hex, ” wrench/socket). Make sure the wires on the actuator are in the slot cast into the actuator housing and not being pinched by the bracket.
Page 258 Press the actuator arm onto the drive ball. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 259 Using the ¼”-20 x 1” (FFR# 25461) bolts, fasten the column actuator bracket to the frame (4mm Hex). Mark a location on the frame for the motor bracket, then drill and rivet the motor to the frame with a ” rivet.
Page 260: Pedal Box And Master Cylinders
Once all the universal joints and bearing retainer bolts are loosely installed, make sure the linkage does not bind and the steering system is functional. You can test the telescoping function of the column for any binding by hooking a test lead to the positive side of a battery (or a jumper box or battery charger) then to one pole on the motor plug, and a test lead to the negative side of the battery then to the other pole on the motor plug.
Page 261 Install rivnuts on the top side of the inside pedal box mounting plate. Set the supplied pedal box on the frame mount bracket so that the outside flange is under the ¾” tube on the outside in order to check fitment. Mark the underside of the ¾” tube where the pedalbox holes are. Drill out the 2 marked holes (from the previous step) with an ”...
Page 262 Install ¼-20” rivnuts (FFR# 25530) in the holes which were just drilled from the underside using the supplied rivnut tool (FFR# 33582). Install the pedal box to the frame using the ¼-20 hardware (FFR# 25461, 11088) into the 2 rivnuts installed onto the frame in the previous step;...
Page 263 The push rods on the master cylinders must now be shortened. As seen in the picture below, mark ¾” from the end of the threaded section and cut. Even though the push rod is shortened, there is more than enough pedal adjustment available. All of the master cylinders are ¾”...
Page 264 Fully tighten the 4 button heads mounting the pedal box to the chassis (7/16” wrench and 3/16” Hex key). Once the pedal box is mounted, you can thread the pushrods into the machined billet pieces mounted on the pedals. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 265: Gas Pedal
Remove the rubber covers and install the small reservoirs. Gas Pedal  Eye protection, drill, ” drill bit, ” Hex tool, rivnut tool. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 266  ¼-20” rivnuts, ¼-20” short flanged button heads, washers (FFR# 25460, 11088, 25375). Place the “L” shaped template (FFR# 25763) over the lower right corner of the pedal box mounting panel and mark the location of the 2 holes. DO NOT DRILL THESE HOLES YET. Now set the Corvette gas pedal in place and make sure that you are satisfied with the gas pedal placement –...
Page 267 Using the desired location from the steps above, drill and install (2) ¼-20” rivnuts. Using the supplied hardware (FFR# 25460), install the gas pedal. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 268: Fuel Tank Finish Panels
Fuel Tank Finish Panels  Eye protection, drill, #6 hex nut driver, ⅛” drill bits, drill, rivet tool, silicone, caulk gun, #6 self tapping screws.  Fuel tank finish panels (FFR# 25641, 25643). Using the previously described aluminum installation process, it is now time to install the fuel tank finish panels.
Page 269: Pre-Engine Preparation
Pre-engine preparation  10mm, 17mm socket, ratchet, 2x4 steel bar or something to support rear of engine.  Engine Mount Spacers (FFR# 25756), Radiator Tubes – 1.5/1.25OD (FFR# 25534, 25535) You must place the hard aluminum coolant lines (FFR# 25534, 25535) in the tunnel before the engine is installed.
Page 270: Engine Installation
When installing the engine it is a good idea to have at least one person assisting you, two is preferred. Before the engine is installed, remove the thermostat housing (10mm wrench) as it aids in the installation. The engine is installed with the engine mounts and rubber isolators mounted to the engine itself. Engine Installation Attach the chain to the engine as low as possible, leaving as little slack at the top.
Page 271 Once the motor has been lowered enough, you will have to rotate the motor back straight and continue to lower the engine making sure to line up the engine mount studs with the holes on the frame and lining up the boss on the engine mount with the rectangular cutout on the aluminum spacer.
Page 272: Alternator Installation
Use the flanged Corvette engine mount nut to secure the engine mounts to the chassis and torque to specification. Alternator Installation  13, 15, 17 mm sockets, 17 mm wrench, ” hex key, ” wrench (or 9 mm wrench), Ratchet, Universal Joint.
Page 273 Mount the flange bearing (FFR# 26084) to the Alternator Relocation Bracket (FFR# 25526) using the supplied fasteners (FFR#’s 12774, 12768). If you have trouble getting the bolts through the holes in the bracket, you may need to chase the holes with a drill bit). www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 274 Install the Pulley spacer. Install the alternator support bracket. Install idler pulley mount. Slide on the idler pulley. Push on the washer and attach the locknut hand tight for now. If you did not unbolt the engine harness clamp on the engine block just in front of the driver engine mount, do so now (13 mm).
Page 275 Put the following bolts in, but do not tighten any of them until you have all of the bolts partially threaded into place (shown with alternator already in place) Upper left bracket bolt (FFR# 25831) (17 mm). Rear bolt (the engine harness clamp bolt – 13 mm). Insert the alternator bolts through the alternator then put the supplied spacers (FFR# 13210) on.
Page 276 Thread the lower alternator bolt into the engine block enough to keep the bolt in place. Next, slide the upper bolt through the hole in the bracket just enough to start the supplied mechanical lock nut (FFR# 25376), then push the bolt the rest of the way through the alternator/bracket. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 277 Put in the upper bracket bolt (FFR# 25831) (17 mm). Now that you are sure all of the bolts are threaded in properly, you can tighten all of the bolts down. Remove the Corvette Idler Pulley from the Corvette Alternator bracket (13 mm). www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 278 Put the Corvette Idler Pulley on the sleeve followed by a ½” washer (FFR# 13976), and nylon lock nut (FFR# 10834). Tighten the lock nut, checking that the pulley moves freely. Unbolt the Tensioner from the engine block (13 mm). Save the Tensioner and bolts. Mount the supplied Tensioner Bracket (FFR# 25360) to the engine block using the Corvette tensioner bolts.
Page 279 Mount the Tensioner to the bracket with the supplied nuts/bolts (FFR#’s 25663, 25662) (17 mm). Remove the Corvette Pulley wheel (15 mm). www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 280 Mount the supplied pulley wheel (FFR# 10775) onto the Tensioner and tighten (15 mm). Now you are ready to mount the 6-rib serpentine belt (FFR# 25527). Wrap the belt around the Crankshaft Pulley, over the Idler Pulley (smooth side in contact with the pulley), around the Alternator Pulley, and line up the smooth side of the belt with the edge of the water pump pulley.
Page 281 Loop the remaining section of the belt past the bolt holding the Tensioner on. Place a 15 mm socket on the Tensioner bolt and rotate the pulley wheel clockwise. Put the belt on the pulley wheel and allow it to rotate counter-clockwise until the Tensioner stops. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 282: Transaxle Adapter Plate Preparation And Installation
Transaxle Adapter Plate Preparation and Installation  Drill, ⅞”, ” bit, ” Hex key, ” wrench.  Transaxle adapter plate, hardware and drill template.  When drilling the template do not allow the drill to walk, particularly when drilling the larger hole for the bearing –...
Page 283 Use a center punch (or marker) to mark the 3 holes in the drill template. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 284 Remove the drill template from the adapter plate. Using a ” bit, drill all 3 holes completely through the adapter plate. Then use a ⅞” drill bit to drill out the center hole. A drill press is best, but a hand held drill can be used.
Page 285 Install the adapter plate on the engine. Make sure the “KEP” logo is at the top facing rearwards in the car. The adapter plate is attached to the motor using the eight M10 bolts. Torque to specification. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 286: Throwout Bearing Assembly
Throwout Bearing Assembly Place the two thin shims on the throwout bearing. Place the toothed ring on the throwout bearing as shown in the pictures below. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 287 Put the throwout bearing down on a table and place the pressure plate on top of it. Place the thick ring on the throwout bearing. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 288 Push the snap ring onto the throwout bearing locking it onto the pressure plate. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 289: Transaxle Install
Transaxle Install 1990 and Later G50  17 mm wrench, 10, 13, 17 mm socket, ¾” socket/wrench, Ratchet, pick and/or screwdriver.  Transmission, Clutch, Pressure Plate, Transmission Mount, 90-98 G50 Transaxle Adapter Kit.  The transaxle is a heavy and has to get aligned with the studs on the adapter plate making it extremely hard for someone to do on their own.
Page 290 Slide the fork onto the throw-out bearing and tape in place. Make sure the socket on the bottom arm of the fork faces rearward. Slide the transmission onto the studs. Another set of hands and/or something to brace the transmission will be helpful here.
Page 291 Apply some lithium grease onto the clutch fork shaft, then slide the shaft through the bearings in the transmission and the fork and push the cap on the shaft. Install the retaining bracket (10 mm – transmission housing, 13 mm – Clutch fork Shaft). www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 292 Remove the tape from the clutch fork by inserting a pick or a screwdriver through the access holes in the transmission. Slide the Transmission Mount (FFR# 25311) into place. The lower brackets may have pulled in slightly due to the heat from welding, so you may have to increase the distance between them slightly to get the transmission mount to slide into place without scratching the powder coating.
Page 293 Put the top bolts in, but do not fully tighten them until all of the bolts are in. Put the top bolts in so that the head of the bolt is on the inside of the frame – once the wheel wells are in, this will allow you to get the bolt out without having to access the bolt from inside the wheel well.
Page 294: Brake Line Routing
Bolt the transmission to the Transmission Mount. Tighten the Transmission Mount to frame bolts (¾” wrench/socket). Brake Line Routing  Drill, ⅜”, ”, ½” wrenches.  Brake line components and Corvette flexible brake line (FFR# 25567, 13738, 13739, 13740). www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 295 The master cylinders have 2 openings; the upper outlet is used as a bleeder to bleed the master cylinders themselves. The front facing opening is used to plumb brake lines. One of the cylinders is used for the front brakes and the other is used for rear brakes. Insert the adapter fitting ( -24 THD to ”...
Page 296 The front brake lines pass through the front inner wheel well aluminum. Drill a ” hole inline with the hole on the brake line bracket located, ½” above the upper surface of the brake line bracket. After the hole is drilled, insert the rubber grommets found in the Painless Performance wiring box. (same procedure used on driver and passenger side) www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 297 Insert the Corvette soft brake line into the brake line bracket from the bottom and hold it in place using the clip found on the Corvette. The brake line metric adapter (FFR# 25502) is then inserted into the opening in the Corvette Brake line fitting. (same procedure used on driver and passenger side) Plumb the driver side front brake line first using the 20”...
Page 298 The front passenger side line is installed in a similar process using the 51” brake line (FFR# 13739). Run the passenger line along the 1” frame rail. The lines are longer than needed due to the inclusion of service loops. Attach the long 60”...
Page 299 At the end of the 60” line, install the brake line union (FFR# 13743). On the other side of the brake line union, install a 20” brake line (FFR# 13740). At the end of the 20” length, install the brake line T fitting (FFR# 25556). www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 300 The soft Corvette brake lines are attached to the car using the rear brake line bracket (FFR# 25762). With the rear brake line bracket fitted over the Corvette soft line hold the bracket and soft line up to the rear splash. Drill and rivet the brake line bracket into place (2 of the rivets are attached into the aluminum and 2 are attached into aluminum and the 1”...
Page 301 frame/aluminum, run the suspension through its full range of motion to determine a location for the bracket that will not stress the flexible brake line as the suspension travels. It is also a good idea to put a wheel on to make sure the line does not contact the wheel. The Corvette brake line retainer clip is then attached on the inside of the brake line holding it in place.
Page 302 Use the 60” to plumb the passenger and driver sides from the previously installed T fitting. Install the metric adapter (FFR# 25502) in between the ” brake line and the Corvette flexible line. When all the lines are completed, attach them to the frame using the ”...
Page 303: Clutch Line Routing
Clutch Line Routing  Drill, ”, ”, ½” wrenchs, 7 mm wrench, 14 mm wrench.  Clutch Slave Cylinder Kit (FFR# 25564), Wilwood Master Cylinder (FFR# 25227). Use the same procedure as the brake master cylinders to install the third clutch Master Cylinder. Use the same procedure as the rear brake lines to plumb the hard line for the Clutch Slave Cylinder (installed in the Transmission Installation section) along the same path as the rear brake lines.
Page 304 Put a crush washer on either side of the line fitting, then bolt the Stainless Steel Braided Flexible hose (FFR# 25817) to the Slave Cylinder using the provided banjo bolt (14 mm). www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 305 Using the supplied fittings, mate the flexible line to the hard line you ran from the Clutch Master Cylinder. Fill the master cylinder with brake fluid. Holding the slave cylinder so the bleed screw points up, open the bleed screw and gravity bleed the slave cylinder until there is no air coming out (7 mm).
Page 306 Bolt the slave cylinder (FFR# 25501) to the transmission (13 mm). Make sure the slave cylinder shaft engages the clutch fork. Bleed the line at the slave cylinder (7 mm – bleed screw) until you no longer have air in the lines and have good pedal feel.
Page 307: Battery Install
Battery Install  ” wrench.  Corvette battery, battery hold down kit. Insert the J-hooks into the holes in the battery tray. Place the battery on the battery tray and attach the J-hooks on top of the battery with the supplied ¼” hardware (FFR# 10802).
Page 308: Radiator Aluminum And Radiator Install
Radiator Aluminum and Radiator Install  Eye protection, drill w/#6 hex nut driver, ⅛” drill bits, drill, rivet gun, silicone, caulking gun, #6 self tapping screws.  Radiator aluminum rear duct and under tray (FFR# 25495, 25493). The radiator aluminum has to be installed before the radiator and coolant overflow container are installed. The under tray aluminum piece is installed first.
Page 309 Install the rear duct aluminum next. This piece is riveted on the bottom through the under tray and into the ¾” frame rail. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 310 The radiator assembly is installed next. The fan shroud must be clipped onto the backside of the radiator. If you are installing air conditioning in the car, make sure the Corvette condenser is clipped onto the front of the radiator. Insert the round insulator from the radiator in the frame (you may have to open up the hole in the frame for the insulator to fit).
Page 311 Cut the nipple off the bottom of the Corvette driver side radiator bushing. Set the Driver side Corvette bushing on the flange so that the radiator will sit on it as shown in the photo below. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 312 Set the radiator in place. Drill and rivet the radiator to the three mounting tabs on the frame using the supplied ” rivets. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 313: Cooling System
Cooling System  Drill (a right angle drill is extremely helpful in this section), 3/16” drill bit, flat screw driver, hack saw, tape measure.  Stainless radiator hose kit, loop strap, (FFR# 13883, 25767, 25768, 10984). The hard aluminum tubes should have been installed in the tunnel before the engine. If this was not done, you can slide them in by removing the steering rack.
Page 314 The smaller diameter aluminum tube extension (FFR# 25294) is the return to the radiator (smaller connector). The larger diameter hard line (FFR# 25293) goes from the radiator to the engine (larger connectors). Place the tubes on the passenger side of the tunnel. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 315 Install the 1.5” long rubber adapters over the hard aluminum line, thicker adapters are for the smaller diameter hard lines and the thinner ones are for the larger diameter aluminum tube. Then slide the 3” long adapter over the smaller ones. (it may help to spray Windex on the rubber to act as a lubricant) Install the corrugated stainless line (make sure to install the correct length line at each location using the previously given lengths) into the open end of the 3”...
Page 316 Start plumbing the lines at the front of the car first; these are routed under the steering rack and around the battery. Connect the corrugated line to the 1.25” diameter hard line then to the radiator opening on the passenger side using the 3” long adapter and one of the 1.5” long thick adapters on the radiator opening. Tighten the adapters with the supplied hose clamps.
Page 317 Attach the corrugated line to the 1.5” diameter hard line to the upper port on the radiator. The line is attached to the radiator using the modified elbow from the Corvette lower radiator hose. Fasten with the supplied hose clamps. Trim the upper port on the water pump just in front of the inner rib, leaving about ⅛”...
Page 318 Connect the rear lines next. The driver side corrugated line is connected to the upper port on the water pump. Use one of the thick 1.5” long adapters on the water pump and attach the corrugated line to the port with the 3”...
Page 319: Surge Tank And Soft Coolant Line Routing
 After running the car for the first time once coolant is added and while the system is still warm, retighten the hose clamps used on the cooling system. Surge Tank and Soft Coolant Line Routing  ” Hex key, ½” wrench, flat screwdriver, razor knife. ...
Page 320 The heater hoses are installed next. Snake the long ⅝” (FFR# 25537), ¾” (FFR# 11205) and ¼” (FFR# 25536) radiator hose down the tunnel through the lower portion of the Dash bulkhead X member. The heater ports on the water pump are different sizes. Connect the larger heater hose (¾”) to the larger port on the water pump (front) and the smaller heater hose ( ”) to the smaller port on the water pump (rear).
Page 321 The small heater hose is connected to the cylinder head vent tube. Attach these hoses onto the water pump with the large heater hose clamps (FFR# 10855). Route the heater hose in the tunnel as a bundle and fasten them to the aluminum hard heater line on the passenger side with the black nylon cable ties (FFR# 13328).
Page 322 Route the bundle of heater hoses around the battery on the passenger side. Install the small ¼” heater hose (FFR# 25536) onto the small fitting on the top of the passenger side of the radiator using the ¼” hose clamp (FFR# 10855). www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 323 The two larger lines from the water pump are attached to the base of the surge tank. Install the larger diameter line (¾”) on the front facing lower port and the smaller one (⅝”) on the rear facing lower port using the large hose clamps (FFR# 25601).
Page 324 The surge tank now has to be connected to the radiator. Connect one end of the ½” heater hose (FFR# 11202) to the upper rear facing port on the surge tank using the supplied hose clamp (FFR# 11206). Attach the other end of this ½” hose to the larger port on the top of the passenger side of the radiator using the supplied hose clamp (FFR# 11206).
Page 325 The filling process is taken from the GM Corvette service manual. Make sure to use a 50-60% mixture of distilled water and DEX-COOL® coolant. Fill the system through the surge tank opening until the fluid level is ½” below opening. With the cap removed from the surge tank, start the engine and let it idle for one minute.
Page 326: Emergency Brake And Cables
Once again, bring the coolant up to temperature (210°F) by revving the engine from idle to 3,000 RPM in 30 second intervals; then turn engine off. Top off the coolant ½” above the FULL COLD mark on the surge tank. Emergency Brake and Cables ...
Page 327 Install the Corvette e-brake to the frame using the supplied ” button head hardware (FFR# 11024). Attach the single cable coming off of the e-brake handle into the connection bracket. Make this connection outside of the tunnel and then slide the cable and connection bracket towards the rear of the car in between the engine and the rubber motor mount.
Page 328 If you removed the Corvette e-brake cables from the rear hub assembly, re-install those now using the Corvette hardware. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 329: Cockpit/Tunnel Aluminum
Loop the cables forward and attach the ends into the emergency brake connection bracket. Cockpit/Tunnel Aluminum  Eye protection, drill w/#6 hex nut driver, ⅛” drill bits, drill, rivet gun, silicone, caulking gun, #6 self tapping screws.  Rear cockpit lumbar aluminum (FFR# 25156). Using the previously described aluminum installation process install the rear driver (FFR# 25163) and passenger aluminum (FFR# 25164) panels.
Page 330 Install the rear lumbar aluminum panels on the drivers (FFR# 25161) and passenger (FFR# 25162) side. (same procedure used on driver and passenger side) Install the concave driver tunnel piece of aluminum (FFR# 25158). www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 331 Install the driver front tunnel wall (FFR# 25160). The driver side tunnel is now complete (shown before panels were riveted in place). www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 332: Axles And Cv Joints
The last piece that has to be installed is the passenger tunnel wall (FFR# 25157). The hole in this panel is for the e-brake handle to pass through. Position the e-brake handle in the “up/engaged” position while installing this panel. Axles and CV joints ...
Page 333 Using a hammer or soft mallet tap on the inner race of the CV joint until it slides off of the old axle shaft. Locate the new axle shafts provided in the kit and slide CV boots with the small clamps down over each end.
Page 334: Speedometer Gear
Attach the corvette CV joint to the new axle shaft and clamp the supplied boot (FFR# 25716) over the joint and axle. Speedometer Gear  If using a Mendeola Transaxle, skip this section. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 335: Cv Axle Install
Slide the speedometer gear (FFR# 25149) over one of the axle shafts. Then on both shafts attach the inner CV joint and boot ring to the axle, and clamp the boot (FFR# 25715) in place. CV Axle Install Mount the axle assembly in the car by sliding the outer CV through the hub and re-installing the original axle nut (34 mm).
Page 336 Attach the inner CV joints back to the transmission using the original hardware. The axle with the cog wheel mounts to the passenger side. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 337: Chassis Wiring
Chassis Wiring  Electrical Tape, Wire Strippers, Wire Crimpers.  Prepared Donor wiring harness, 18 circuit Chassis Harness, Zip Ties, Flexible wiring loom. Fuse Panel Remove the chassis harness from the box and find the mounting plate for the fuse panel. Attach the fuse panel mounting plate to the fuse panel using the hardware provided.
Page 338 Mount the fuse panel to the chassis on the driver’s side of the Dash Cross member using ” rivets. Line the back corner of the mount panel up with the smaller side tube to support the back. The fuse box mount panel has a fairly sharp edge and should be protected using the flexible serrated polyethylene grommet.
Page 339: Main Harness Routing
Main Harness Routing Begin routing the wires coming from the back of the fuse panel by separating the wires that stay in the cockpit behind the dash from the wires that exit the footbox into the tunnel. The wires that stay behind the dash include: gauges, stalk switchgear, dash indicator lights, brake light switch, and horn button.
Page 340 Route the sections of harness that run to the front and back of the car from the fuse box out into the tunnel through the hole next to the driver’s knee. These wires must route under the tubes that support the pedal assembly.
Page 341 Locate the drive by wire harness that was separated from the donor harness and pull the gray plastic section back from the plug to allow it to pass through the tunnel wiring hole. Pass the drive by wire plug (either end, they are symmetrical) through the pass through from the tunnel into the footbox.
Page 342 Separate the two grey fan control wires from the dash section of the chassis harness and route them through the pass through with the other wires. These wires will be used for the fog lights as the fan is computer controlled. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 343: Steering Column Plug
Steering column plug Find the plug that was removed from the harness that attaches to the turn signal stalk/ headlight switch.  The wires from the turn signal section of the chassis harness need to be spliced into this plug to operate the turn signals and horn and lights.
Page 344: Hazard Wiring
Headlight Low Beams Black (relay #86) from low beam relay (white wire (relay #30) input is #909) ---- Not used Black Ground Ground ---- Not used Brown Parking/Dash Lights Black (relay #86) from parking relay (white wire (relay #30) input are 927 and 929) White Headlamp switch, on Dark green...
Page 345: Fog Light Wiring
1 – Connect to Relay lead #86 2 - +12 volts from fuse panel 4 – Ground 30 – +12V – BRN #951 from Fuse panel 85 – Ground 86 –+12V from switch 87 – To Pin A Fog light wiring ...
Page 346: Headlight Relays
Strip and connect the wires to the switch connectors. Connect the switch wires. 1 – Connect to fog lights. 2 - +12 volts from fuse panel 4 – Ground Headlight relays  Misc. electrical components  Wire cutters, ” drill bit, drill, wire crimper, wire stripper ...
Page 347 If on the plug, the middle (fifth) wire from the relay plugs is not used and can be cut right at the socket. Crimp on a ring terminal (provided in the harness kit) on each of the relay plugs blue ground wire (circuit 85 on the relay).
Page 348 Ground the relays to the chassis using the #14 screw provided. Constant power is wired into the relays from the same source that powers the light switch into the red wire. (relay #87) www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 349: Windshield Wiper Harness
Hook the High Beam, Low Beam, and Parking lights up one through each relay, the black wire (relay #86) on the socket goes to the switch side and the white wire (relay #30) attaches to the chassis harness. It will be easier to trace any wiring later if you label the relay sockets as you hook them up. Windshield Wiper Harness Locate the short windshield wiper harness that was removed from the Corvette.
Page 350 Remove a 3-4 foot section of pink wire from the remainder of the corvette harness. This wire is spliced into the pink wire on the wiper harness and then run through the firewall plug. Pull the free black ground wire back through the plug at the same time. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 351 Plug the wiper harness into the column and stretch it out forward toward the radiator. The yellow wire that is hanging free is spliced into either side door lock power from the chassis harness. Cut the purple wire. This wire is the high speed setting on the wipers, which will cause the wiper arm to over extend past the windshield when going through its sweep if it is not disabled.
Page 352: Ignition Switch
Ignition Switch Locate the bundle of heavy gauge wires that attach to the ignition switch in the chassis harness. You can mount the ignition switch on the gauge face, on the center section of the dash etc. Although you won’t be permanently mounting the switch now, this is a good time to determine the location in case you need to extend/shorten the wires before crimping the ring terminals on.
Page 353: Brake Light Switch
Brake Light Switch In the dash section of the chassis harness there is a brake light switch section. Splice the switch that was removed from the donor into the harness matching the wire colors white and orange, the third wire on the switch is not used.
Page 354 Unscrew the two hole retainer from the brake light switch and pop it into place on the brake switch bracket. Thread the switch into the mounting bracket provided in the kit about half way to give adjustment in either direction. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 355 Line the bracket up in the car so that the pedal is pushing the switch in about half-way. The bracket mounts to the bottom of the tubes holding the pedal assembly. When the position is right mark for the holes on the bottom of the tube. Drill the mounting holes out with a ”...
Page 356 Attach the bracket top the chassis using two button head screws and plug the switch back in. If the switch needs adjustment unplug the plug before threading it in or out. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 357: Engine Harness Fuse Panel Connection
Engine Harness Fuse Panel Connection Locate the large center plug that attaches to the Corvette engine harness fuse box. It will have three heavy gauge wires, an orange, a purple, and a pink. Locate the engine section of the chassis harness, it should be pulled through into the center tunnel and include the ignition, alternator and start wires along with some other wires.
Page 358 The fuse panel power wires attach from the large plug to the end of this section of harness. The purple start wire hooks to the heavy gauge purple wire on the plug and the pink ignition harness wire splices into the two heavy pink and orange wires on the plug.
Page 359 The final large plug on the underside of the Corvette fuse panel contains the circuit for the cooling fans as well as the fuel pump. It is recognizable by four heavy gauge wires, blue, white, grey, and black. The fuel tank harness that was stripped earlier should have four loose wires, two for the vehicle speed sensor, a black ground, and one small grey wire for the fuel pump feed.
Page 360 Fan wires The fan wires need to be extended to reach to the fan plugs removed from the original Corvette harness. These are the heavy gauge wires in grid positions B3, D10, E10, and F11. The 14ga. wires are provided in the kit.
Page 361: Fuse Panel Mounting
Wrap the fan harness in electrical tape from the plug down to the ground loop on the black fan wire. Fuse panel mounting Sit the fuse box in place in the chassis with the terminal post toward the rear of the car. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 362 Route the engine section of the chassis harness and spliced in fuse panel plug back through the tunnel and down low past the A/C compressor. Reach the plug up and plug it into the middle slot of the fuse panel. Plug in the fan and fuel pump plug into the front slot of the fuse panel.
Page 363 Continue Routing the fan harness toward the front of the car. The headlight harness routes along this same path from the tunnel forward then over to a pass through space on the drivers side behind the radiator. Drape the headlight wire over the radiator support for now and plug the fans into the harness. The left side fan wires are grey and blue and the right side are black and white.
Page 364: Underdash Light
Underdash light  The dash light provided in the complete kits and the Hot Rod can be cut into multiple pieces if lighting is desired in each footbox and under the dash. How to cut the LED light strip  If you choose to cut and spread the lights around, wires will need to be soldered to each piece to connect them in series.
Page 365: Computer Bracket Mount
Wiring Connect the power to a 12v source such as the electric choke if not using a carburetor. Attach the ground wire to the headlight switch courtesy light ground wire. Computer Bracket Mount Find the computer mounting bracket and hardware from the Corvette and computer bracket to frame mounting hardware in the kit.
Page 366 The Tach module will be mounted to the underside of this bracket using two of the three mounting holes with the plugs pointing toward the front of the car. Hold it in this position clear of the bracket and trace the holes for drilling.
Page 367 Remove two of the screw clips from the top half of the computer bracket. These clips are now attached to the throttle control module tabs. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 368 Attach the throttle control module to the lower computer bracket using the original hardware and a 7mm socket or driver. Bolt the bracket and module into the frame using the four button head screws. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 369: Computer/Engine Harness
Computer/Engine Harness Computer Rest the engine harness roughly into position over the top of the engine. Route the fuse panel, computer, and plug in the large fuse panel plug. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 370 Route the two computer plugs and the throttle module plugs up to the computer mounting bracket through the back corner of the fuel tank area. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 371 Plug the computer plugs into the computer and mount it into the mount bracket using the original hardware. The wires should come out of the plugs toward the inside of the car. Plug the throttle control module in. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 372 Plug the round connector from the fan/fuel pump harness into the round connector on the engine harness. Both plugs are a few inches down the wiring harness from the fuse panel plugs. Route the throttle control harness back through the tunnel along side of the other harnesses. This harness is too short to run down next to the fuse box so it must run vertical next to the A/C compressor and get plugged into the module.
Page 373 Starter Solenoid Locate the wires for the starter solenoid; they include a heavy red alternator wire and a fusible link that attach to the large post and a small purple start wire that attaches to the small post. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 374 There is a black ground wire that comes out of the same location of the harness that attaches to the engine block. The conduit on the harness may need to be pulled back to get this and the rear sensor plugs to reach with the starter wires in place.
Page 375 Crank Position Sensor Plug the crank position sensor into the side of the block. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 376 Oil Level Sensor Plug the oil level sensor plug into the sensor in the bottom of the oil pan. Wrap the harness for the driver side under the throttle body and across the back of the block. Plug the injectors and coil plugs in on both sides of the engine along with both throttle body plugs. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 377 Under the throttle body is the cam position sensor and pigtail for the knock sensor. Plug them both in making sure that the wire colors match on the knock sensor plug and pigtail, it can be incorrectly switched with the oil level sensor plug. Run the alternator wires and coolant temperature sensor wires down the front edge of the block and attach them.
Page 378 Air Temperature Sensor  For 1997-2000 Corvettes, the air filter needs to be drilled to accept the air temperature sending unit that was removed from the corvette intake tube. On the 2001-2004 Corvettes, the Intake Air Temperature sensor is integrated into the Mass Air meter, so you can skip this step if you have a 2001-2004 Mass Air Meter.
Page 379 Insert the air temp sender into the air filter. Attach the mass air meter to the air filter and then the entire assembly onto the throttle body. You can now plug in the harness connections for the mass air, air temperature, and throttle position sensor. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 380 The manifold pressure sensor wires will not reach the front of the engine. Extend these wires with some of the remaining harness so that this plug will reach around and plug into to the sensor. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 381 Connect any remaining ground loops on the harness to the block or cylinder heads. The three wire plug pictured is the old oil pressure sensor and is not used. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 382: Instrument Sending Units
Instrument sending units Oil Pressure sending Unit Locate the oil pressure adapter fittings and remove from the oil pressure gauge package the sending unit. Screw the base fitting into the block below the throttle body. An open end wrench will fit in through from underneath.
Page 383 Thread in the 45° adapter using some Teflon tape or paste. Tighten the adapter until the opening faces the drivers side and just slightly forward. Install the sending unit. If it is tight to the intake vacuum nipple then it is ok to trim the nipple down to about ½...
Page 384 Water Temp Sending Unit Remove the coolant plug in front of the crank position sensor on the back passenger side of the engine block. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 385 Open the water temperature gauge and remove the sensor, this sensor is threaded into the metric adapter provided in the kit using Teflon tape or paste. Thread the sender and adapter back into the block making sure that the copper ring gasket is in place. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 386 Attaching Senders to Chassis Harness Separate the coolant temperature wire from the chassis harness back to just in front of the A/C compressor. Route the water temperature sensor wire under the accessories and along the side of the block and connect it to the sensor with a loop connector. Also in the chassis harness is the oil pressure sending unit wire, pull this out of the bundle back to the center tunnel and route it up the small air bleed tube to the intake manifold.
Page 387 Continue the pressure sensor wire along the intake manifold running it along side of the injector harness and attach it to the pressure sender with a small ring terminal. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 388 Fuel level wires Separate the fuel level send wire and the power antennae wire from the taillight harness and re-route them in with the engine section of the chassis harness. The tail light harness has not yet been routed past the pass through into the tunnel.
Page 389 The tachometer signal wire is located in the engine section of the chassis harness. This wire is spliced into the white wire leading into the computer plug (the Engine Speed Signal – ESS – wire).  The ESS wire is located in pin #35 in the Blue Computer Plug for 1997-1998 Corvettes, and in pin #10 in the Red Computer Plug for 1999-2004 Corvettes.
Page 390 The white “alternator regulator” wire located in the engine section of the chassis harness needs to be spliced into the plug side of the yellow wire and the green/black “power antennae” wire is spliced into the harness side of the yellow wire. This circuit will be used to supply the speedometer with a signal. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 391: Vehicle Speed Sensor
Out further on the fuel tank harness is the plug from the Vehicle Speed Sender and the chassis ground. Clean a spot on the chassis and ground the harness. Vehicle Speed Sensor Porsche Transaxle  ” Hex key, ” wrench ...
Page 392 On the transmission there is a small cover just above and behind the passenger side CV joint. Remove the rear bolt from this cover. Attach the bracket to the transmission by re installing the removed bolt through the slot in the bracket and back into the transmission.
Page 393 Route the Vehicle Speed Sender and wires from the area under the engine fuse panel along the engine harness and up to the transmission. Install the sensor into the bracket using the provided hardware. Adjust the sensor and bracket until there is an even ”...
Page 394 Mendeola Transaxle  Thread lock, ”, ” Hex key, ” wrench  Intake relocation components, Mendeola installation parts On the Mendeola Transaxle, the speed sensor mounts on the driver side at the 5 o’clock position to a ” threaded hole and reads the the toothed stub axle. Attach the sensor to the bracket using a ”...
Page 395: Obd Ii Diagnostic Plug
OBD II Diagnostic Plug Locate the OBD II plug that was removed from the harness and attach a ground loop from the chassis harness kit to the black and black with white stripe wires. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 396 Underneath the engine fuse panel are three round grey plugs two of which are unplugged. Find the plug that has four green wires in one row and cut the wire that is in the M position. Install a male bullet connector from the chassis harness kit on the harness end of the trimmed wire. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 397 In the remaining donor harness pull a long section of wire (preferably purple so it matches the wire at the OBD II plug) from the bundle, roughly 6-7 feet will do. Crimp a female bullet connector on one end. Plug the bullet connector together and route the remaining wire extension up through the tunnel and pass through into the dash area.
Page 398 Splice the wire extension into the purple wire on the OBDII plug. Find the side door lock power wire that wasn’t used in the dash harness and splice it into the orange wire on the OBDII plug. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 399 Rivet the OBDII plug to the chassis next to the steering column mount using 3/16” rivets. Make sure that the wires to the plug run underneath the main chassis tube to allow for the aluminum panel that covers the footbox. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 400 Ground the plug to the chassis. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 401: Battery Cables
Battery Cables Two positive battery cables are provided with the kit, a long cable that connects the battery to the engine fuse panel (FFR# 25996) and a short cable that connect the fuse panel to the starter (FFR# 25997). Hook the shorter wire onto the large terminal of the starter and run it up the along the harness toward the engine fuse panel.
Page 402 Route the long cable through the tunnel along the same route as the heavy red wires from the chassis harness. Hook both cables along with the two heavy red chassis power wires to the fuse panel outside terminal. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 403: Steering Wheel And Horn
Steering Wheel and Horn  Wire stripers and crimpers, 21mm socket and ratchet  Steering wheel and fasteners FFR# 25268 Cut the horn relay connector found on the backside of the driver’s side air bag assembly approximately 5” from the end of the white plastic housing. Install a female spade connector to this end (arrow pointing to this end).
Page 404 Install the steering wheel boss (FFR# 25459) on the Corvette column; the square cutout on the boss is to allow the horn wire to pass through. Use the Corvette steering wheel nut to attach the steering wheel adapter to the steering column. Install the steering wheel adapter surround over the steering wheel adapter.
Page 405 With the steering slipped upside down, insert the horn grounding ring into the backside of the wheel. The white wire included with the steering wheel is used to connect the spade terminal on this grounding ring to one of the spade terminals on the horn button. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 406 Remove the center section of the wheel by peeling back the overhanging sections on the backside and install it onto the steering wheel adapter using the recessed Hex keyed fasteners. After the wheel is installed, connect the horn button relay wire to the other spade terminal on the back of the horn button.
Page 407: Battery Install
Battery Install  ” wrench, ” Hex key, dill, ”, ⅜” drill bit  Corvette donor battery and battery hold down kit (FFR# 25546).  The instructions for this section were written during a build-up of a car to be fit with the optional Air Conditioning System so the pictures will show the battery offset to the driver side.
Page 408 Once the battery is in place make sure that the terminals are oriented towards the inside of the car. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 409 If you are installing the optional Air Conditioning system the hole on the passenger side of the battery tray sits on top of the 1” frame rail so you will have to drill it out. If you are not installing A/C, skip to the next step.
Page 410 Lay the battery crossbar hold down on top of the battery and fasten the “J” bolts into place using the supplied fasteners (FFR# 10802, 11088). www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 411 Attach the positive cable to the positive terminal on the battery using the supplied button head bolt and washer ( ” Hex) (FFR# 25873, 11005). The ground strap has to be attached to the frame. Drill a ” hole on the rearward, passenger side steering rack mounting bracket.
Page 412 Attach the ground strap to the frame using the hardware provided (FFR# 11005, 11024, 13963). Attach the other side of the ground cable to the negative terminal on the battery using the supplied button head bolt and washer (FFR# 25873, 11005). www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 413: Shifter Linkage
Shifter Linkage  Hammer, hacksaw, 13mm, 9mm wrench, 3.5mm Hex key.  Shifter linkage and hardware, shifter handle assembly (FFR# 25832, 26085).  On some engines, the engine mount may interfere with the shifter linkage – you will have to grind the engine mount slightly to allow the linkage to clear the mount if this condition exists.
Page 414 The shifter linkage must now be assembled. There are 4 lengths of shifter shaft, 2 long (FFR# 25897, 25898) and 2 short (FFR# 25895, 25896). Connect the two short and two long segments together with a universal joint (FFR# 25899). Attach a second universal joint to rear end of the short (FFR# 25896) shifter assembly and the rear end of the long shifter assembly (FFR# 25898).
Page 415 Once the shifter assembly is assembled as seen above, attach the pieces together using the short spring pins (FFR# 25901). Drive the pins into place using a small hammer, unit they are flush with the casing on the universal joint. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 416 Install the rear shifter linkage (FFR# 25436) into the joint previously installed into the rearward linkage arm using the supplied long spring pin (FFR# 25894). Now that rear section of the shifter assembly is complete, install it into the chassis. With the rearward linkage arm oriented at the rear of the car, insert the front shaft of this assembly through the flange bearings previously installed on the transaxle adapter plate and alternator bracket.
Page 417 Install the rearward most linkage arm onto the transaxle shift rod using the supplied bolt (FFR# 10601). You are advised to use Loc-tite on the threads of this bolt. Make sure that the transaxle is in neutral for the remainder of this procedure. (picture below is of an early model transaxle) www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 418 The front portion of the shifter assembly has one end with a universal joint attached to (rearward section) and the other end just has the shifter rod itself (front). You are going to have to assemble this in the car. Slide one plastic flange bearing (FFR# 26084) onto the front portion of this shifter assembly with the flat mounting side towards the joint.
Page 419 Loosely attach these flange bearings to the frame using the supplied hardware. (FFR# 12775, 12768) The rearward end of this front shifter shaft assembly has to be attached to the rear shifter shaft assembly. Insert the rod coming through the flange bearing mounted on the alternator bracket into the universal joint on the front shifter shaft assembly.
Page 420 Once the shifter linkages are attached, go back and tighten the front two flange bearings located on the front shifter linkage assembly. Center the shifter handle joint in between the two flange bearings and tighten the bolt holding it in place. (this will act as the baseline setting) www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 421 The bottom of the shifter handle shaft is threaded into the shifter handle joint. Make sure the shifter handle is threaded approximately half way into the shifter handle joint and tighten the jam nut. (this will act as the baseline setting) Using white lithium grease (or standard chassis grease) lubricate the vertical shifter handle.
Page 422 Slide the ¾” rod end over the shifter handle shaft and insert it into the center hole on the frame mount. (FFR# 25628) Using the supplied hardware (FFR# 12380) fasten the rod end into place. Install the shifter knob (FFR# 25374) onto the shifter handle assembly. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 423 Place the seat temporarily into the car and shift through the gears. You can adjust where the shifter is (forward and backwards) in the car by loosening the bolt holding the shifter handle assemble to the rest of the shifter mechanism. Loosen this bolt and adjust slightly to achieve the desired result. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 424: Catalytic Exhaust Pipe Installation
You can also slightly adjust the height (motion ratio) of the shifter mechanism by loosening the jam nut at the base of the threaded shifter handle. Slight adjustments here result is significant changes in the overall “feel” of the shifter mechanism. Catalytic Exhaust Pipe Installation ...
Page 425 1997-2000 2001-2004  Due to the Corvette having two different styles of exhaust manifolds, there are two different versions of the catalytic converter pipes. The earlier vintage (1997-2000) cat pipes (FFR# 25370) use the same pipe on the driver and passenger side. The later versions (2001-2004) has specific driver (FFR# 25876) and passenger (FFR# 25877) pipes which are marked from the factory.
Page 426 The FFR cat pipes attach to the Corvette manifolds using the Corvette donor studs and nuts. These studs are commonly damaged during disassembly and can be purchased from a GM dealership, GM# 12561310. Make sure all mounting studs are in place along with the donut gasket; slide the cat pipes through the tubular x-frame in the rear of the car setting them into place.
Page 427 The flanges are indexed and will only attach to the Corvette manifolds in one orientation. Go ahead and install the Corvette exhaust manifold nuts onto the studs holding the cat pipes in place. Do not fully tighten these nuts as you will do that later when the h-pipe is installed. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 428: Fuel Tank And Fuel Line Routing
Fuel Tank and Fuel line Routing 1997–2002 Fuel Tanks  ” Hex key, ½” wrench, flat screwdriver, razor knife.  Corvette gas tanks/fuel lines, fuel filter/regulator, AC compressor cover plate, pre-bent barbed fuel line (FFR# 25753, 25888, 25889). The Corvette fuel tanks are now installed. The driver/passenger tanks must be swapped side to side when installing then in your GTM chassis.
Page 429: Fuel Tank Crossover Tube
Install the AC compressor cover plate using the ” short rivets. While installing this panel, make sure there is plenty of clearance between it and the engine belt/pulley. Also, make sure its position does not affect the way the fuel tanks are installed into the frame. Fuel tank Crossover Tube Press one of the female AN fittings onto the braided hose until it reaches the stop inside the fitting.
Page 430 Thread the elbow onto the female fitting you just pressed onto the braided hose. Thread one of the elbow fittings on the braided line onto the bulkhead fitting. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 431: Fuel Line Routing
Route the braided line along the 1.5” square tube between the engine mount brackets, making sure that it is low and away from the exhaust, crank pulley, A/C Compressor etc. Check for kinks in the line. Install the other elbow onto the braided hose. Thread the hose onto the bulkhead fitting you installed in the other tank.
Page 432 The next way to verify the year of fuel system is to look at the fuel rails on the motor. The first generation fuel line routing has 2 ports on the fuel rails, one feed and one return. The second generation has a single feed on the fuel rails and no return (the fuel filter has a return port to the tanks).
Page 433 The fuel filter is installed under the PCM on top of the fuel tank finish panel (just forward of the engine fuse box). Install a ¼-20” rivnut into the frame then attach the fuel filter to the frame using the flanged button head fastener (FFR# 25460).
Page 434 Attach the ” fuel line to the adapter piece, and insert it into the output on the fuel filter. Attach the other side of this line to large 10mm port on the fuel rail. Fuel tank to fuel filter  The Corvette fuel line with an inline y-fitting needs to be modified.
Page 435 Use caution and remove the rubber/nylon line from this smaller port on the y-fitting. Also remove the straight 8mm fitting on the end of this section of hose that was just trimmed from the y-fitting. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 436 Use the same process and remove the other 10mm and 8mm quick connect fuel line fittings to plumb the fuel system with. On the driver side fuel tank (has only 2 fittings and no internal pump), make a short fuel line that simply loops from one fitting to the other fitting.
Page 437 Use the quick connect fuel lines removed from the “Y” fuel line and connect the larger 10mm fitting to the ⅜” rubber line and attach it to the larger port on the passenger side tank. Connect the other end of this line to the input on the fuel filter. Return line ”...
Page 438  Refer to fuel filter to engine section to see which generation fuel system you are using. Connect the other side of the ” line to the return port on your system, either the 8mm port on fuel filter or fuel rail. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 439: 2002-2004 Fuel Tanks
Check for leaks before fastening the braided line to the chassis. Once you are sure the braided line isn’t kinked and is safely out of the way of any moving parts and none of the fittings are leaking, secure the line to the chassis using the supplied insulated hose clamps and rivets.
Page 440 Install the AC compressor cover plate using the ” short rivets. While installing this panel, make sure there is plenty of clearance between it and the engine belt/pulley. Also, make sure its position does not affect the way the fuel tanks are installed into the frame. Press one of the female AN fittings onto the braided hose until it reaches the stop inside the fitting.
Page 441 Thread the elbow onto the female fitting you just pressed onto the braided hose. Thread one of the elbow fittings on the braided line onto the bulkhead fitting. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 442 Route the braided line along the 1.5” square tube between the engine mount brackets, making sure that it is low and away from the exhaust, crank pulley, A/C Compressor etc. Check for kinks in the line. Install the other elbow onto the braided hose. Thread the hose onto the bulkhead fitting you installed in the other tank.
Page 443 www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 444: Drive/Test Chassis (Go-Cart)
Drive/Test Chassis (Go-Cart) Front Suspension Now is a good time to double check all your hardware, make sure your wiring and hoses are away from extreme heat and moving parts, make sure the steering turns freely lock to lock, and make sure your brake flex lines have enough slack for the full range of wheel movement.
Page 445: Wheels
Wheels Install and torque your wheels. Make sure they rotate freely and do not interfere with the brake calipers, lines, or any suspension components. Rattle Patrol Get the engine up to temperature and check for leaks and make sure the fan is working. After running the car for the first time once coolant is added and while the system is still warm, retighten the hose clamps used on the cooling system.
Page 446: Foot Box Front Wall, Top Panel, And Tunnel Cover Aluminum
Foot Box Front Wall, Top Panel, and Tunnel Cover Aluminum  Eye protection, drill w/#6 hex nut driver, ⅛” drill bits, drill, rivet gun, silicone, caulking gun, #6 self tapping screws.  GTM foot box aluminum (FFR# 25171). Install the front footbox wall (FFR# 25190). Do not rivet the upper edge yet, as it is riveted in the next step.
Page 447 If you did not do so when you removed the Tunnel Cover Aluminum Panel (FFR# 25802) from the frame, you will need to mark the rivet locations on the panel now. Measure in from the sides of the panel ½” and draw a line parallel to the edge of the aluminum.
Page 448 Apply a bead of silicone to just the top edge of the Dash Bulkhead tube. Set the panel in place. Drill the frame using the holes in the aluminum panel as a reference and rivet the panel to the frame. Install the foot box top piece.
Page 449: Main Body Mounting
Main Body mounting  ⅛”, ”, ¼”, ⅜”, ” drill bits, drill, Rivnut tool, ½” wrench/socket, ratchet, ” Hex key, 1” hole  Body – Main (FFR# 25245), Rear Hatch Fasteners (FFR# 25429), Firewall Panel (FFR# 25497), Weatherstrip (FFR# 10761), Tail lights and Hardware (FFR# 25218), Fuel Filler Assembly (FFR# 25228), Rear Quarter Window Assembly (FFR# 25249), Rear Hatch Hinge (FFR# 25236) Lower the main body shell into position on the frame, make sure to pull the door openings out and around the hinges.
Page 450 Make sure that the body is sitting tight around the door openings. Check that where the bottom of the body curls under is underneath the frame tubes. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 451: Door Area Mounting
Door area mounting The body is located by the door openings underneath the door sills and front to back by the chassis in front of the door opening. Making sure that the body is tight against the frame in these areas sink a few ”...
Page 452: Rear Body Mount
Rear body mount Measure in about 8½” from the outside edges of the exhaust exit recess and draw a vertical line – the material between these lines will not get cut. This is where the license plate will mount. Trim the body along the outline of the exhaust recess and along the vertical lines you drew.
Page 453: Firewall Mounting
Raise the back of the body with a jack or blocks until the bottom corner of the license plate recess and the top corner of the transmission mount are lined up.  The rear section of the body needs to be leveled and centered side to side by measuring from the wheel opening in to the shock mount, once it is centered mark down either side of the mounting bracket with a marker or tape.
Page 454 Rivet the bottom corners of the panel into the chassis. Pull the body up into position against the panel. It is easiest to put some wooden blocks between the body and footbox tops to hold it in place. With the body up tight against the panel put a rivet on each end of the front face into the body. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 455 Set the side cowl bracing panels in place, lining up the top edge of the panel with the top edge of the center firewall panel you just installed. Make sure you leave enough room between the top edge of the panel and the body for the weather stripping.
Page 456 With the body in place the wiper enclosure panel (FFR# 25500) has to be fit to the body/chassis. Pre-drill the holes (⅛”) in this panel before setting it into place. All of the mounting flanges should be pre-drilled. Picture below shows the panel with the flanges oriented upwards, drilling the holes in this orientation makes is easier.
Page 457 Once the bulb seal is installed fit the panel into place. This piece of aluminum is mounted around the wiper cutout on the body and installed from the cockpit. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 458: Taillights
Use a marker and mark the location of location of this panel. (Mark the perimeter of the panel on the foot box top)  Once the body is removed later in the build, make sure to rivet this panel in place with the bulb seal installed on the panel.
Page 459 Mount each taillight using the aluminum bracket and hardware, the orientation is not important for initial fitment. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 460: Fuel Filler Caps
Mount all four taillights to ensure a perfect fit, it may be necessary to file or sand the body to get a perfect fit. Fuel Filler Caps Unpack the fuel filler caps (FFR# 13490) and the hardware. The hardware is in the small boxes with the caps.
Page 461 Lower each cap into the body opening on the rear fender and if necessary sand or file until they will center in the recess. Mark and drill ” holes for the mounting hardware, make sure that the cap orientation is the way you want it.
Page 462: Rear Quarter Windows
Rear Quarter Windows Fit each window up to the opening lining the front edge up flush with the body. Use black silicone or have the windshield guy attach the windows with his windshield adhesive. Rear Hatch Hinge  The panel has been trimmed oversize to allow for material to be removed until the desired seam is found.
Page 463 Unpack the hatch hinge brackets and hardware (FFR# 25236). www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 464 Press the brass bushings (FFR# 13183) into the adjustment plates (FFR# 25404) and the long hinge arms (FFR# 25412, 25413 – driver, passenger). Press the bushings into the shorter arms (FFR# 25410). www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 465 Press the bushings into the hatch attachment brackets (FFR# 25401, 25402 – driver, passenger). Attach the hinge arms to the adjustment brackets. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 466 Attach the tops of the hinge arms to the hatch attachment brackets. Attach the hinge adjustment brackets to the chassis finger tight so the brackets can still slide to adjust. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 467 Set the hatch back into position and line the hinges up. With everything lined up mark the center of each mounting slot of the attachment bracket onto the hatch. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 468 Remove the hatch and drill and install ¼-20 rivnuts in the hatch The gas shock mounts are centered on the mounting pad on the hatch with the ball stud facing inward. Drill and rivet both mounts to the hatch. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 469 Find and mark the centerline of the hatch striker mount area. Mount the hatch to the hinges using the six small ¼”-20 button head screws. Align the hatch paying close attention to the rear corners and the bottom corners of the window openings. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 470: Rear Hatch Latch
Attach the gas shocks to the hatch. Rear Hatch Latch  ” hex key, ½” socket, ratchet, ” drill bit, rivet tool, rivnut tool, ” drill bit, marker, ruler  Hatch fastener components www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 471 Close the hatch. From the underside, measure forward from the body latch mount area ” and mark the hatch. This is the front of the latch striker mount. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 472 Open the hatch. Center and locate the striker mount bracket on the hatch and mark the mounting holes. Drill and install rivnuts at the locations marked. Attach the striker mount to the hatch using the ¼”-20 x ¾” flanged button head screws. Attach the shoulder bolt to the center of the striker mount hole.
Page 473 Use the template to locate and drill ¼” latch mounting holes through the body latch area and the latch support bracket. Insert the swivel wire stop in the latch hole. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 474: Wipers
From the latch support side insert the ¼”-20 x 1.00” flange head screws through the latch support, body, latch spacer and into the latch. Tighten the screws. Insert the hatch release cable end fitting into the latch spacer. Insert the cable into the swivel wire stop. Pull on the end of the cable and, at the same time, tighten the release cable in the swivel wire stop.
Page 475 Locate the wiper transmission from the kit and insert it upside down in the hole. With the outer holes even mark through them on the body and drill out with a ¼” drill bit. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 476: Diffuser
Diffuser  Drill, ”, ” drill bit, rivet tool, clamps, measuring tape, marker.  Secondary body fasteners, Rear Diffuser. Raise the diffuser up to the chassis with a jack for fitment so that the Diffuser is sitting against the frame but can still be moved around.
Page 477 Measure the height from the body down to the diffuser. 3.75” is the length of the spacer provided but if a different look is desired these could be cut. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 478 Double check the in/out measurement again then put a little more pressure on the jack to hold the panel firmly in place. Clamp the sides of the Diffuser near the bottom to hold it at the correct angle. Trace the frame rails and body flanges onto the diffuser from the top to locate the rivet locations. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 479 Decide how many spacers you would like to use to hold the diffuser. We provide five but three could also be used. Evenly position the spacers on the Diffuser so that the top is in the middle of the body mount flange. A little masking tape between the diffuser and the body might be needed to hold everything in place.
Page 480 Remove the diffuser and mark the panel for ” rivets on both the bottom part and the sides.  Remember that the Diffuser sticks out past the body so do not mark for rivets in the area sticking out. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 481 Drill ” holes in the Diffuser for the rivets. Drill ” holes at the center of the marked spacer locations on both the body mount flange and the diffuser. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 482 Re-position the diffuser and using the diffuser rivet holes as a guide, drill the bottom frame tubes. Rivet the lower area. For now, you only need to put about every fourth rivet in place as the panel will be removed prior to paint. Bolt the spacers onto the body.
Page 483 Use the Diffuser side holes as a guide and drill the side body holes for rivets. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 484: Doors
Doors Position the doors in the openings and remove any excess material to allow the door sit flush with the body. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 485: Door Hinge
Door Hinge Locate the front door trim panels. These panels locate the bolts that hold the door to the frame in the front. Align the panels so there is a ½” between the bottom outside corner and the bottom of the door (see arrow) and mark the two square holes on the door.
Page 486 Remove the panel and drill the two holes with a ⅜” drill bit. On the original power window tracks there is a stud at the top of each track, hammer this stud out using a medium size steel hammer. Resting the track on a socket will keep it from deforming when removing the stud.
Page 487 Position the door hinge plate on the front of the door aligning the slots in the plate with previously drilled holes. Mark the door to cut holes for the hinge pin sleeves and the door stop bracket. Cut the marked through holes, be sure to leave room for adjustment. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 488 Position the door hinge plate in the door, the plate is symmetrical and can be set in place with either side www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 489 Insert rubber door stop stud (FFR# 26034) through hole in bracket and tighten lock nut (FFR# 13963). Depending on your door installation, you may need to space off the door stop with washers, if the door opens to far and contacts the body. This can be done after the door is fit and trimmed. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 490: Power Window Track
Power Window Track Set the window tracks in the door shells in rough position, then set the door frames in above them. Attach the latch to the latch adjuster bracket to the latch mechanism using the grade 8 ¼” screws. The screws that come in the package with the latch are too short and are not used.
Page 491 Slide the latch assembly in behind the frame into position and loosely bolt the two together using ” carriage bolts, washers and lock nuts. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 492 Lift the frame and hinge plate in the front of the door as high as you can get it and insert the two ½” carriage bolts from the bottom. With the trim panel in position, push two ” carriage bolts through the door and the front of the door frame and finger tighten a lock nut on each.
Page 493 Drill out the body slots for the door striker. Mark the chassis for the vertical center of the slot then measure in ” from the outside of the striker pad and drill an ⅛” hole. Walk the small drill around to make a larger hole that is centered with the slot then switch to a larger ½” bit and bore out the hole using the chassis as a drill guide.
Page 494 Push the brass bushings from the door hardware into the chassis and door frame, if they are loose in the frame put a little grease around the outside to keep them from falling out while lining up the pins. Position the door on the body lifting the hinge plate over the chassis hinge mounts to allow the door to slide forward into position.
Page 495 Slide the shoulder bolts through both the hinge plate and chassis mount and finger tighten a lock-nut on the bottom. Remove the tape and align the door so that the surfaces are all flush and tighten the mounting nuts from the hinge to the frame and frame to the door.
Page 496 The bottom edge of the body is still loose and can be moved in and out some to help line up the door surface. Once you are happy with the door fit drill and rivet the body to the four ends of the chassis cross- tubes.
Page 497 Bolt the door latch pin to the chassis leaving it loose enough to adjust. The washer on the door pin should be between the body and the chassis and is threaded to allow the pin to adjust outward. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 498 With the door in position and the door latch operational mark the center of the slots in the door latch mount where it meets the body and drill with a ¼” drill bit. Bolt the rear of the door to the door frame using the ¼” stainless bolts provided and tighten them with the door in its fitted position.
Page 499 Mark the seams for an even gap and file or sand until you have an even ” gap around the door. Open and close the door looking for interference between it and the body, the main area that this will occur is the upper front corner.
Page 500 Once you have the door lined up properly, you can mark the location for a hole for the door latch on the supplied aluminum cover panel. Drill the mounting holes in the panel and in the body, but don’t mount it permanently until the body has been painted (Shown after body is painted).
Page 501: Windows
Windows With the door frames installed and the doors adjusted, set the window tracks in the door. Using the Corvette window motor screws, mount the window motor to the bracket on the door frame using the three holes in the bracket. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 502 Splice the Corvette window motor plug into the wires that you ran earlier in the build from the window switches. Position the front lower track mount tab to the recess in the bottom of the door so that the hole in the bracket is centered about the recess.
Page 503 Place the lower portion of the rear track into the molded recess on the inside of the door near the back of the door. Position the track so that the mounting hole in the track is in the approximate location shown in the picture below (shown already bolted in position).
Page 504  The actual measurement from the edge of the door may vary car to car, but the important things to be sure of are that both tracks are below the opening in the door and they are as CLOSE TO PARALLEL AS POSSIBLE! It is very critical that the tracks are parallel to prevent them from working against each other which will cause the tracks to bind and prevent smooth transition of the glass.
Page 505 Squeeze a small amount of the supplied adhesive (FFR# 25865) onto a flat surface like a piece of cardboard (something you are willing to discard). The epoxy is a two part epoxy, so be sure that both parts A and B are coming out of the tube. Mix part A and B together with a nail, rivet or something similar (also something you are willing to discard).
Page 506 Starting at the back of the door, push the felted bulb weatherstrip (26039) onto the flange going around the top of the door opening on the body to the front corner. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 507 www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 508 Attach the adhesive-back weatherstrip (FFR# 12750) around the lower door opening on the body. Using the same adhesive-back weatherstrip (FFR# 12750), install a strip along the rear door post so the bulb faces toward the front of the car. This will allow the rear edge of the glass to rest against the bulb, sealing the rear edge.
Page 509 Window Down Window Up Install the felted weather strip on the inner and outer edges of the window slot in the top of the door. The weather strip with the wider edge is for the outside. Also install a piece of the bulb weather strip on the flange at the edge of the front door post.
Page 510 Outside Weatherstrip Inside weatherstrip. Slide the glass through the slot in the top of the door. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 511 Set the bottom edge of the glass in the two guide clamps. Do not tighten the clamps yet. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 512 Using the switch, move the window up and check its position in the window opening around the door and also along the body. Make sure it is contacting the weatherstripping. Also, make sure that the glass clears the door linkage and moves up and down smoothly. Adjust as needed. Depending on the position of the window track brackets, you may have to bend the bracket over the top of the door frame to clear the door panel once it’s in position.
Page 513: Side Mirrors
Screw the window track brackets to the door frame using the supplied screws. Side Mirrors The side view mirror gasket acts as the drilling template for the holes in the door, slide the gasket down to the end of the mirror studs. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 514 Measure on the door upper corner 2¼” back from the leading edge of the door and draw a mark. The front stud of the mirror must be at least this far back to give clearance for the nut underneath. Line the mirror up on the door, the height is set by keeping the gasket just below the top edge of the door. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 515 To set the height and angle of the mirror have someone hold the mirror while you stand from the front about 15 feet away and guide them. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 516 With each mirror in the position you want them hold the gasket to the body and remove the mirror. Mark the three holes through the gasket and drill with a ¼” drill bit. Install the mirrors and gasket using the original nuts. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 517: Vents And Screens
Vents and Screens Locate and identify the mesh louvers for the body. It is much easier to do any fitment on these panels prior to the body being painted. Fit the rear hatch mesh panel to make sure that it fits in the recess and trim if needed. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 518 Use the rear deck mesh as a template to mark the rear deck of the body with a marker. Measure 1” in from the lane marked and remark the body. Cut the rear deck for the mesh.  The rear exhaust passes through the mesh. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 519 The flanges that stick out from the piece need to be bent at 90˚ in a vice. Bend the end and the top for now. Position each piece on the body and mark for the third flange to be bent for a tight fit. Marking is easier on the outside of the body then bend ”...
Page 520 The mesh for the side scoops need to be formed to fit the body. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 521: Hood Preparation
The front radiator opening mesh and can be fit by hand to the opening. Hold it in place from the back and wrap the edges around the back side of the opening. If the mesh does not sit flush, sand the edge of the opening to fit.
Page 522: Headlight And Turn Signal Mounting
 Nose assembly, fog light components, headlight bucket assembly, headlights and hardware, front turn signals and hardware, GTM nose aluminum (FFR# 25243, 25216, 2553, 25209, 25214, 25686, 25533 )  If you are going to make up your own pattern, do so out of paper/cardboard for one side and simply flip template over for the second side.
Page 523 Using a 3.5” hole saw, drill out the 2 holes for the head light and high beams; the turn signal indicator requires a 2 ” hole drilled. Use the dimples found in the gel-coal as center points to drill. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 524 Drill 4 holes in the headlight bucket. From the backside of the headlight bucket, use the headlight cutout template (FFR# 25484) and mark the 4 locations using a paint marker. (at this time the lights should not be installed in the buckets) Using a ”...
Page 525 Install the low beam (on the outside hole in the bucket) and high beam light (on the inside hole of the bucket) in the headlight bucket from the backside simply by pushing them into place.  Do not to push the retainer clips fully into the headlight bucket during initial fit as they are difficult to remove once they are fully seated.
Page 526: Front Wheel Well Panel
The turn signal is installed using the self taping screws provided (FFR# 12780). Simply line up the turn signal in the head light bucket and screw them in from the backside. Front wheel well panel Install bulb seal (FFR# 10761) on the outside edge of this panel. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 527  This panel is located behind the headlights in front of the front wheels. The hole in the center is used as an access panel for the backside of the headlights. The hood support for both the driver and passenger are installed next. These hood support brackets have one 90˚...
Page 528 Remove the front wheel well panel. Drill and rivet the support onto the hood using ” long rivets. (picture below shows the top flange on the hood liner) www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 529: Headlight Lenses
Headlight Lenses Fit the headlight lenses to the nose/headlight bucket. Due to tolerances in the headlight lenses, some filing of the edge is necessary to achieve a uniform gap around the outside. After achieving the desired shape, use 600-1200 grit sandpaper to clean up the edge. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 530: Hood Hinge/Hood Mounting
Hood Hinge/Hood mounting  Before the nose is set on the body, the hinges have to be assembled. The Corvette hinges are similar, but there are differences side to side. Look at the pictures below to see verify the correct side.
Page 531 Driver Passenger Attach the hood hinge bracket to the Corvette hinge using the supplied carriage bolts and hardware. The picture below is of the driver’s side assembly.  Do not fully tighten the nuts during this step, as they are adjusted after the nose is aligned. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 532 The hinge assembly is now installed onto the car using the supplied carriage bolts and hardware.  Do not fully tighten the nuts during this step, as they are adjusted after the nose is aligned. Driver Passenger Install the rounded push on bulb seal (FFR# 10761) to the front inside aluminum panels. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 533 With the help of a friend, position the nose on the car. The hood will support itself on top of the bulb seal while you position it into place. Roughly position the nose on the car (exactly lining of the hood is done later after the hinges are installed).
Page 534 The hood hinge bracket attaches to the backside of the fog light recess in the nose. Before drilling the fog light buckets to mount the nose, check its alignment one last time. Drill two ” holes through the nose centered in the slot on the hinge bracket. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 535 Fasten the nose to the hood hinge bracket using the supplied hardware (FFR# 11024, 11005, 13963). Do not tighten the fasteners on the hinge assembly yet, as they are tightened in a few steps. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 536: Gas Strut Installation
Align the nose to the main body section with the hood in the closed position. Gas strut Installation Attach the gas strut bracket onto the frame (FFR# 12207) using ” rivets just forward of the upper control arm fastening it to the ¾” frame member. Attach the gas strut ends (FFR# 13972) to both sides of the gas strut.
Page 537 There is aluminum glassed into the nose to provide an attachment point for the gas strut bracket. Look at the picture below to locate the gas strut bracket. Draw a line on the hood liner inline with the outermost ridge on the hood liner and a second line on the front face of the hood striker bracket pad. The intersection of these lines is the location for the rear rivet on the bracket.
Page 538 Using the location marked above, place the gas strut bracket along the first line that was drawn above (length wise of the vehicle). Drill and attach this bracket to the nose using (3) ” rivets. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 539: Hood Latches
Hood Latches The Corvette hood latches are mounted to the sides of the body towards the rear of the nose opening. The latches are different side to side; the front edge is attached in 2 places and the rear is attached in just one (on both driver and passenger side).
Page 540 Once the latches are in place, insert the Corvette striker brackets into the latches. It is helpful to apply duct tape around the striker bracket holding it upright and in place. Using a paint marker, mark the perimeter of the hatch striker bracket. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 541 Close the nose (while the paint is still wet), marking the perimeter of the striker bracket on the hood liner. Remove the hatch striker bracket from the latch and open the hood. Align the striker bracket to the underside of the hood and mark the location for the 2 mounting points. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 542: Final Paint Prep/ Body Shop Tips
There is aluminum in the nose here. Drill ” holes in the hood liner and mount the striker brackets with ” rivets. Final Paint Prep/ Body Shop Tips Make sure all wheel wells are even thickness and radius www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 543 All trimmed panel edges should be radiused and should be either done or pointed out for the body shop to All Mesh openings need to be made flush and flat edges radiused. The section of body where the dash rests should be painted flat black under the windshield; we usually mark this area for the paint shop with a paint pen or silver marker.
Page 544 The body flange behind the wheel well is visible with the hood open and should be trimmed to match the wheel well thickness. Make sure that the front fender air exits are trimmed even and radiused, we usually leave ¼” of a flange for strength and appearance.
Page 545 The door openings should be trimmed flush with the chassis along the bottom and front to allow the aluminum trim to sit correctly if it overhangs in some area mark it to be ground when the body is removed prior to painting. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 546 The side window openings and rear hatch opening should be sanded for an even thickness and flange width. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 547 Radius the body edge above the front tires from the wheel well in to the vertical aluminum. The underside of the body is not visible in most places however the area around the door pillars back to the rear quarter windows (the outside area marked in the picture) is visible past the headliner and should be painted either black or sanded and painted body color.
Page 548 Have the body mounting flange around the rear Diffuser painted black. Send the body out to paint www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 549: Interior - Rear Wall
Interior - Rear Wall  ¼”, ”, ½” drill bits, drill, clamps, marker, tape measure.  Secondary body fasteners, Aluminum Rear Wall (FFR# 25271), Upper Cockpit Sidewall Brackets (25741, 25742), Fuel Tank Covers (FFR# 25195, 25196).  Slightly rounding off the edges of the rear wall with a grinder/sander aids in installation of the rubber push-on trim onto the rear wall.
Page 550 Mark the locations where the rivnuts will be installed in the 1” square tubing. Mark the location for the upper seat belt mount holes. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 551 Set the upper cockpit side wall brackets (FFR# 25741, 25742) in place and mark the holes you will need to drill in the body and the rear wall. The square flange of the bracket goes behind the rear wall (pointing in towards the center of the car) and the flange with the rounded edge points outward and will locate near the top of the door jam (See Photo –...
Page 552 Set the fuel tank covers in place. Mark the location of where the upper sets of holes need to be drilled in the rear wall for the rivnuts. Mark the location of where the lower holes will be drilled in the floor pan. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 553  You may have to trim/grind the outside edge of the fuel tank covers slightly to clear the door striker mounts. Remove the fuel tank covers from the car and install the rivnuts in the floor pan. Set the interior engine cover in place. Make sure that the engine cover clears the Tensioner Pulley and the upper coolant hose.
Page 554: Roll Bar Padding
Set the fuel tank covers in place. Roll Bar Padding Front Cross Bar  Masking Tape, Headliner Spray Adhesive.  Roll Bar Cover- Front Cross Bar (FFR# 25773).  The adhesive you should use needs be a high temperature, high strength adhesive designed for headliners.
Page 555 You may have to trim the small bit of material left on the round sections of the material from when the cutting tool lifts for a second to readjust its position before cutting the rest of the radius. Begin by performing a trial fit prior to applying the adhesive. Starting on the driver side, hold the cover behind the front cross bar with foam side towards the front of the car.
Page 556 Wrap the cover around the roll bar starting with the top edge, then wrap the other end around the bar in a clockwise motion. The cut edge should be in an area that will be hidden once the body is on (near the top and towards the front).
Page 557 Once you have determined that you can wrap the material around the roll bar without wrinkling the material, placing the exposed edge in a place that will be covered by the body and the material reaches all the way across, begin applying the adhesive to the foam then wrap the material around the roll bar. Make sure to spray the adhesive on the back of the material as you begin to overlap the material so it will stick to itself.
Page 558: Side Bars
Side Bars  Hacksaw, Masking Tape, Headliner Spray Adhesive, knife/razor.  Closed-cell Roll bar Padding (FFR# 25772), Roll bar Covers.  Mask off any area that could get overspray on it, including the engine bay, wiring etc. When spraying the adhesive, work in small sections to be sure the adhesive does not dry before you can wrap the roll bar cover material around the roll bar tightly.
Page 559 Remove the padding from the roll bar. Peel the backing off the adhesive strip on the roll bar padding. Apply the padding to the roll bar just as you did in the trial fit. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 560  Before gluing the cover material to the roll bar, test fit it so you can practice covering the roll bar without wrinkling the material. Fit the roll bar cover over the padding, starting at the junction of the top of the A-pillar and the front cross bar.
Page 561 Continue wrapping the cover over the side bar, taping the material down every few inches. The material may tend to twist as you wrap it. This is easily corrected by rotating the material until it faces an area that will be covered by the body (facing up and towards the outside).
Page 562  Remember to work carefully! After spraying the adhesive and wrapping the material around the roll bar and overlapping it at the top of the roll bar, tape the cover in place with masking tape until the adhesive dries.  When removing the tape, do not begin pulling the tape at the cut edge –...
Page 563: Vinyl Installation
Tape over the section (along the edge of the material, not around the roll bar) you just sprayed until the adhesive dries. Cut off any excess material at either end, and repeat for the other side. Vinyl Installation Fuel Tank Covers ...
Page 564  For the vinyl installation, work carefully and most importantly TAKE YOUR TIME! You do not want to have wrinkles in the vinyl, you don’t want to get any adhesive on the vinyl that will show, and you want to be sure that the vinyl is tightly adhered to the bends in the aluminum. Lay the Driver side vinyl piece vinyl side down on a flat, clean surface then lay the Driver side Fuel Tank Cover on top of the vinyl, with the bent flange sticking up so that the aluminum sits flat on the vinyl.
Page 565 Mark the inside edges according to the following picture. Again, leave about ¼ inch between the cut and the edge of the aluminum. If the vinyl overlaps, trim as necessary so that the vinyl only adheres to the aluminum. Cut out the material at the upper bend line (on both sides), mark and cut the upper corners off. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 566 Remove the aluminum panel from the vinyl. If you have been working on a surface that you don’t want overspray on, use a box or something similar that you can set the vinyl on and not be concerned with getting overspray on. Spray the vinyl with the Super 77, covering the entire piece. Spray the side of the aluminum that was in contact with the vinyl when you marked and cut the material to fit.
Page 567 Tilt the panel up, allowing it to rest on the bottom edge of the panel, and smooth out the vinyl, making sure that it sticks to the aluminum. Spray the edges of the aluminum as well as the back so when you begin to wrap the vinyl around it, the vinyl will stick to both the back and the sides of the aluminum.
Page 568 Begin to wrap the vinyl around the aluminum, pressing first along the sides of the aluminum. Then press the vinyl over the back of the aluminum until each section of vinyl sticks to the panel with no wrinkles. Using the holes you already punched as a guide, punch holes through the vinyl you just wrapped around the aluminum.
Page 569: Rear Wall
Repeat for the Passenger Side. Rear Wall  Masking tape, Super 77 Spray Adhesive, marker, scissors, Rivnut Kit, Rivnuts, ¼”, 25/64” drill bits, drill, Razor Knife/Razor Blade.  Interior Vinyl parts, Aluminum Panel – Rear Wall (FFR# 25194).  For the vinyl installation, work carefully and most importantly TAKE YOUR TIME! You do not want to have wrinkles in the vinyl and you want to be sure that the vinyl is tightly adhered to the bends in the aluminum.
Page 570 Mark the sections to slice and the area to remove on each lower corner. Sketch a line that follows the top arc of the aluminum panel about 1” off set from the edge of the aluminum. An easy way to do this is to use a compass with a marker on it (See Photo). Trim the excess vinyl along the line you just made.
Page 571 To prevent the material from wrinkling as you wrap it over the top arc of the aluminum, mark then cut evenly spaced sections out of the vinyl about every 8” (See Photo). Cut a slice in the vinyl at each side of the roll bar cutout on each side. Once you are ready to put the vinyl in the car, you can trim this area to conform to the roll bar.
Page 572  If you don’t plan on painting the rear wall or you have already had it powder coated/anodized etc, before spraying the wall with the adhesive, you may want to wrap the vinyl around the wall to determine where the end of the vinyl will be, then mask off the aluminum that will be exposed to overspray.
Page 573 Work your way down the panel from the top, smoothing the vinyl out onto the panel. Be sure to get the vinyl into the bend line as tight as possible and spray the back of the lower flange. Wrap the lower section of the vinyl over the rear wall. Trace the outline of the window with the compass offset from the edge of the aluminum panel about ¼”.
Page 574 Spray the area with the adhesive. Cut the window outline with a razor blade, slicing the outside edges into three or four sections to allow the vinyl to wrap around the aluminum properly. Wrap the Vinyl around the aluminum panel. Punch holes in the vinyl for the bolts to pass through just as you did with the fuel tank covers.
Page 575: Tunnel - Driver And Passenger Side
Cut out the holes for the lower rivnuts with a Razor knife or razor blade. Install the rivnuts for the fuel tank covers and the engine cover. Tunnel – Driver and Passenger Side  Masking tape, Super 77 Spray Adhesive, marker, scissors. ...
Page 576 Remove the Driver Side Tunnel Vinyl and set in place on the tunnel. Make sure you have enough material to wrap around the 1” square steel dash upright and onto the floor (the carpet will overlap the excess vinyl). Once the vinyl is situated in the right manner, tape the top edges, and the rear edge in place.
Page 577 steel/aluminum and trace downward until the panel meets up with the lower portion of the footbox aluminum. Remove the vinyl and cut along the line you just made. Put the vinyl back on the tunnel, taping the top edges to hold the vinyl in position. ...
Page 578 Cut around the ¾” steel tube coming from the top of the dash bulkhead, meeting at the front of the footbox (to the right of the gas pedal). Remove any excess in the corner between the inside footbox wall and the aluminum panel that the wiring passes through.
Page 579 Mark and cut the location at the beginning of the floor pan where the seat will mount. Cut location for the area where the 1.5” steel tube begins to angle outward (just in front of the inboard seat belt buckle bracket). You may also have to trim around the inboard seat belt buckle bracket. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 580 Cut the material at the front and rear edges of the 1.5” square tube at the area where the dash and the interior engine cover meet. Tape off the ¾” steel tube coming from the dash bulkhead going to the front of the footbox. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 581 Tape off or conceal any wiring that could possibly get the spray adhesive on it. Lift up the bottom edge of the vinyl in the footbox. Spray both the aluminum (only the lower inside wall for now) and the backing of the vinyl with Super 77. Wait a minute or two to allow the adhesive to tack up, and then lower the vinyl onto the aluminum making sure that the material does not wrinkle.
Page 582 Remove the tape from the top edge of the footbox section and lower the vinyl down. Mask off any area that could get overspray on it. Before spraying, pay close attention to how the Super 77 sprays so you don’t accidentally spray in the wrong direction onto the black side of the vinyl when you get close to the edges.
Page 583 Remove the tape from the upper edge of the dash upright and from the back edge of the material. Pull the vinyl away from the tunnel wall. Spray the upper half of the recessed section of the tunnel wall and the corresponding section of the vinyl. Allow the adhesive to tack up and apply the vinyl to the tunnel wall.
Page 584 Spray the rest of the front half of the tunnel up to the 1.5” square tube where the dash meets the interior engine cover. Apply the vinyl, smoothing it out from top to bottom. Spray the rear half of the tunnel and apply the vinyl. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 585 Mask off the top edge of the vinyl to prevent overspray. Mask off the ignition and any wiring that may get overspray on it as well. Spray the upper edge of the vinyl and wrap it over the top of the 1” square tubes and the 1.5” square tube section at that dash/engine cover junction.
Page 586 Remove the passenger side tunnel vinyl from the box and as with the driver side, fit the vinyl to the tunnel wall, trimming and slicing where necessary.  TAKE YOUR TIME! Once you are sure the vinyl is trimmed properly, spray the adhesive/smooth the vinyl out in a similar fashion as with the driver side starting from the footbox and work your way towards the back of the tunnel (shown with carpet already in place –...
Page 587: Cockpit Side Wall (Upper)
Cockpit Side Wall (Upper)  Super 77 Spray Adhesive, scissors.  Interior Vinyl parts  Work carefully and most importantly TAKE YOUR TIME! You do not want to have wrinkles in the vinyl and you want to be sure that the vinyl adheres tightly to the bends in the aluminum. Before applying the vinyl to the cockpit side wall panels, you may have to cut a relief in the panel to allow it to bend slightly around the top of the door latch bracket.
Page 588: Cockpit - Door Sill Inside Panel Installation
Cockpit – Door Sill Inside Panel Installation  ” drill bit, drill, marker, silicone, caulking gun.  Aluminum Panel – Door Sill, Inside, Driver and Passenger Sides. If you did not mark the location of the panel in relation to the frame and to the body when you received your kit, make sure that the flange that sits on the aluminum floor pan sits flat, the top edge of the panel is no more than approximately ”...
Page 589 Make sure the front edge of the panel that sits in the recessed area of the floor pan is up to the edge of the raised aluminum floor pan. Mark the location of the 1.5” square steel door sill tube and 1.5” square steel dash upright tube. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 590 Mark the locations for the rivets and drill them out with a ” drill bit. Apply silicone to all edges of the panel that come in contact with steel or aluminum and set the panel back in place. Drill the frame according to the holes you already drilled in the panel and rivet the panel in place and repeat for the other side www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 591: Carpet Installation
Carpet Installation  Razor, Scissors, Low-Tack Tape, Silicone, Caulking Gun.  Carpet  Perform a trial fit before applying the adhesive to the carpet and to the floor/aluminum panels. Footbox Outside Wall, Upper Tape off any wiring, the fuse panel, the exposed powder coated steel, the steering column etc. that may get overspray on it –...
Page 592: Footbox Outside Wall, Lower
After trial fitting the carpet and making any necessary adjustments, spray the carpet and the aluminum panel and apply the carpet. Repeat for the passenger side. Footbox Outside Wall, Lower Trial fit the carpet. Make any necessary adjustments. If you didn’t already mask off the pedals (particularly the clutch since it is the closest to the outside wall) do so before spraying.
Page 593: Footbox Front Wall
Spray the back of the carpet and the aluminum then apply the carpet. Make sure to keep the carpet tight in the corners and around any bends. Repeat for the passenger side. Footbox Front Wall www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 594: Floor
Trial fit the carpet to be sure it fits snugly against the vinyl and the other sections of carpet on the outside wall. Make any necessary adjustments. Mask off the carpet you just applied and the vinyl if you haven’t done so already. ...
Page 595 Set the carpet in place, making sure it fits snug against the lower bend in the front footbox aluminum piece. Make sure the carpet sits flush against the raised edges (front and rear) of the floor pan and is tight in the corners (front edge shown).
Page 596 Trim the area around the inside seat belt bracket. If necessary, trim the carpet so that the back edge is about ¼” away from the rear lip of the floor pan – this will allow the fuel tank covers to sit in place properly and allow you to bolt the panels in without creating misalignment between the holes in the panel, and the rivnuts you installed in the floor pan.
Page 597 Mask off any area that could get overspray on it, especially the vinyl you applied to the tunnel wall. A box, some brown paper, or newspaper will work well. The Super 77 is a “misting adhesive” which means that it does have a fair amount of overspray associated with it, so covering the whole tunnel, not just the lower portion will ensure there isn’t any adhesive on the vinyl when you are done.
Page 598: Cockpit Rear Window
Repeat for the other side. Cockpit Rear Window  Small Flathead Screwdriver, Razor Blade, Weather Strip Closing Tool.  Interior rear window, Gasket.  Once the window is in place (before trying to lock the self-sealing gasket into place) it helps to spray the gasket with some Window cleaner, or apply some soap and water.
Page 599 Trim the excess gasket material – be sure that the ends of the gasket will contact each other evenly and there is no gap between them. Leaving the contact paper on the rear window, slide the window into the inner channel in the gasket. An easy way to do this is to start on one side by hand and work the material over the edges of the window with a small flathead screwdriver or pick until the window is all the way in the channel.
Page 600 Again, spray the gasket with some window cleaner or something similar and begin to lock the weather strip into place with the supplied weather strip closing tool (FFR# 25890). Below is a photo of what the gasket looks like when sealed (off the car). Use the probe of the closing tool to pry the grooved portion of the gasket open and the wheel to roll along the tongue, sealing the gasket (See Photo).
Page 601 Trim the excess vinyl around the window gasket. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 602: Interior Engine Cover
Re-install the bulb seal you cut previously to the top edges of the rear wall. Install the rear wall using the supplied ¼”-20 x 1” button head screws (4 mm). Interior Engine Cover  4mm Hex key, ¼”, ” drill bits, drill, Rivnut Tool. ...
Page 603 Set the engine cover in place, and fasten it to the rear wall with the supplied ¼”-20 bolts (4 mm Hex). Before drilling, make sure the engine cover is pressed onto the top of the steel it surrounds at the bottom end.
Page 604 Once you have drilled the six holes in the frame, remove the engine cover and drill out the holes with a ” drill bit. Install the rivnuts. Re-install the engine cover, bolting it to the rear wall and the frame. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 605: Fuel Tank Cover Installation
Fuel Tank Cover Installation  4mm Hex key, ” drill bit, drill.  Aluminum Panel- Fuel Tank Cover (R, L), Aluminum Panel – Fuel Tank Cover, Inside (L, R). Set the fuel tank covers in place so that the side flange of the engine cover is in front of the fuel tank cover.
Page 606 Drill and rivet the flanges of the inside panel to the tunnel aluminum. You may want to remove the ” thick fuel tank covers first to avoid tearing the vinyl with the drill; just make sure that you tape or clamp the inside panel in place first.
Page 607 www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 608: Undercarriage Aluminum Installation
Undercarriage Aluminum Installation  ” drill bit, drill, marker, silicone, caulking gun, tape measure/ruler.  Tunnel Floor (FFR# 25185), Undercarriage panel – Front/Center (FFR# 25187), Engine Floor (FFR# 25186), Engine Floor Access Panel (FFR# 25419), Rear Quarter Floor (R, L) (FFR# 25420), Fuel Tank Floor (FFR# 25421), Undercarriage Floor Pan (R, L) (FFR# 25477).
Page 609: Tunnel Floor
From the inside the tunnel, trace the outline of the 1.5” square tubes onto the panel with a marker. Remove the tape and the panel. Using the procedure described in the Aluminum Preparation section, drill the panel, apply a bead of silicone to the frame and re-tape it in position on the frame.
Page 610 From inside the tunnel, trace the outline of the 1.5” square and ¾” square steel tubes. Remove the panel. Mark the rivet locations on the panel and drill them out. Apply a bead of silicone to the frame/front edge of the Engine Floor, then re-install the panel to the frame, lining up the rear outside edges with the edges of the Engine Floor Panel, and making sure the panel lies about ¾”...
Page 611: Rear Quarter Floor (R, L)
Rear Quarter Floor (R, L) Tape the one of the Rear Quarter Floor Panels into place, lining it up with the 1.5” square tube that runs along side the engine, and the diagonal 1” square tube in front of the rear wheel. The front edge of the panel should be in the middle of the 1.5”...
Page 612: Fuel Tank Floor (R, L)
Fuel Tank Floor (R, L) Place one of the Fuel Tank Floor Panels onto the frame. It should contact the front edge of the Rear Quarter Floor and the side of the Engine Floor. Measure in about ¼” from each edge of the panel and mark the rivet locations.
Page 613 Set the panel in place on the frame so the front edge of the panel meets up with the front edge of the Lower Dash Bulkhead Tube and the inside edge of the panel touches the Tunnel Floor Panel you already installed.
Page 614: Seat Belts
Seat Belts  ¾” wrench, ¾” socket, ratchet, 19 mm wrench/socket.  Seat Belt Hardware  The Corvette Passenger Side Seat belt reels will be mounted on the Driver Side of the GTM, and the Corvette Driver Side Seat belt reels will be mounted on the GTM Passenger side. The donor seat belts assembly will be re-mounted in the GTM chassis in their entirety.
Page 615 Bolt the upper seat belt guide through the firewall and to the chassis (3/4” wrench/socket). Bolt the seat belt receptacles to the chassis making sure that each release button is facing the inside of the car (19mm wrench/socket). www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 616: Seats
Seats  Masking tape, measuring tape/ruler, ”, ”, ” drill bits, drill, 4 mm Hex Key.  Seats. Mark the bottom of the seats with masking tape so that you can locate the mounting surfaces with the seats in position. The mounting surfaces are the two flat front corners and the lowest section of the slightly curved rear area.
Page 617 Position the seats in the chassis and sit in them to find a comfortable position. Pay close attention to pedal position, steering wheel position, head clearance, and visibility as well as general comfort. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 618 If you find that your head is close to the rollcage and you could use a bit more room, look at the inside seat belt mount and where it touches the seat. Removing the corner of the seat will allow the seat to move in more.
Page 619 Measure in 2” from the flat pads on the front and mark the side to side location for the rear bolts. The front mounts will generally fall over the tubular section of chassis so it is important to measure from underneath where you can see the tubes to make sure that your mounting bolts will go through the chassis tube and into the seat.
Page 620 Once you have the locations marked on the chassis drill them out from the top with a 3/16” drill bit. Re-position the seat and very carefully drill through the chassis from the bottom into the seat. In order to keep the seat in position while you drill you can use some temporary ”...
Page 621 Remove the seat and drill out the four holes and install ¼”-20 rivnuts in the base. Drill the chassis holes out with a ” drill and install the seat using ¼”-20 button head screws. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 622: Dash Wiring And Gauge Installation
Dash Wiring and Gauge Installation  Wire strippers, wire snips, electrical tape, ⅝”, ” drill bits, hole saws, drill, Solder, soldering iron, marker, masking tape.  GTM Gauge Assembly, Door components, Misc. electrical components  Use the following diagram as a guide for wiring the power windows circuits. ...
Page 623: Power Window Wiring
Power Window Wiring Locate the power window switches and wiring provided with the kit. Lay the window switches in their rough location and slide one of the small rubber grommets from the chassis harness box down each pair of red and black wires that will connect the motors to the switches. The window wires run through the chassis to the doors.
Page 624 Route the window motor wires through the chassis and push the grommet into the hole to protect the wires. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 625 Run the two remaining power and ground wires back into the driver footbox through the pass through and splice and solder the red wire into both of the two yellow window power wires from the chassis harness. The chassis harness is fused so the extra in-line fuse can be removed. Attach the black ground wire to the chassis at one of the common grounds for either your relays or OBDII port.
Page 626: Gauge Installation
Gauge Installation Remove the gauges from the box and locate the retaining rings; these will be used to help determine lay- out. Cover the front of the dash face with masking tape. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 627 Draw a line around the outside of the dash face ½” in from the edge. This area is used to attach the dash face to the dash pod. Arrange the rings on the dash face until you have a lay-out that you like. Leave ”...
Page 628 Wire the gauges up to the pre-labeled chassis harness. It will be easier to work on the car later if you run all of the gauge face wires through a large plug. One of the unused large round ones form the donor harness works well.
Page 629: Headliner
Headliner  Headliner Adhesive.  Headliner.  The headliner is now black. These instructions show the old headliner Flip the body upside down and rest it on a protective surface. Test fit the headliner to the body and trim to fit if needed. Spray the front 12”...
Page 630 Finish the liner working in 12” increments until its sits smooth and is well attached in all corners and edges. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 631: Body Final Installation
Body Final Installation  ” drill bit, drill, silicone, caulking gun, flathead screwdriver, ” socket, ratchet, Low-Tack Tape, Phillips head Screwdriver, wire strippers.  Aluminum Panel – Firewall, Fuel Filler Assembly, Rubber Push on Trim, Aluminum Panel – Rear Deck Trim Plate, Headlight Plugs Install the fuel filler caps in the position you drilled before the body was painted and bolt in place using the hardware that came with the caps (Phillips screwdriver, ”...
Page 632: Taillights
Taillights Wire in the tail-lights to the chassis harness. Use the third brake light feed for both brake lights and ground all lights to the chassis, making sure the ground is clean and free of powder coat. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 633 Run the reverse light wire to the switch on the transmission and attach it using the bullet connector from the chassis harness kit. The remaining wire that was trimmed from this circuit attaches to the other side of the switch and then runs to the two white sections of the taillights. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 634: Fog Lights
Fog Lights Make two copies of the following template to fit the fog lights to the nose and tape them in the light openings. 2. Test fit the light in the opening aligning the holes with the slots on the light mount bracket. Remove the lights from the nose and remove the brackets from the lights.
Page 635 Set the bracket on the template so the holes line up with the slot then mark the slot with the location of the hole. With the bracket in a vise, drill the location marked and the center of the sideways “T” for rivnuts. Start with a small hole and work your way up in size to the ”...
Page 636 Use the rivnut tool to install ¼”-20 rivnuts in each bracket with the bracket ears pointed away from the tool as shown. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 637 Reassemble the fog lights. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 638: Headlight Wiring
On the nose, drill a ¼” hole in the center of the light template for the fog light wires to go through. Drill the two mounting holes using a ¼” drill bit. Remove the remains of the template and push the wires through the center hole. Mount the fog light using ¼”...
Page 639 Slide one of the supplied terminals onto the wire and crimp into place. Slide the terminal into the headlight plug far enough so that the terminal will engage the male terminal on the headlight. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 640 Repeat for the other wire leading to the headlight. Once both wires are installed in the plug, press the blue plastic safety clip over the wires with a small screwdriver. Press the plug onto the headlight until the clips snap into place. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 641: Headlight Covers
Repeat for the other three headlights. Cut 6 twenty inch long section from the black ground wire provided with the kit. Crimp a small loop connector from the chassis harness and a small spade connector from the kit on either end of each wire. Use these wires to ground the driving lights and headlights.
Page 642: Aluminum Firewall
Install the door latch cover plate. Aluminum Firewall  Aluminum Panel – Firewall, Rubber Push on Trim, Aluminum Panel – Rear Deck Trim Plate www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 643 Set the firewall in place as you did during the trial fit of the body. Drill and rivet through the Firewall, the body, and then the “L” Flange of the Upper Wheel Well panel. Install the cowl bracing side panels. Press the weather stripping on the top edge of the panels.
Page 644: Fuel Filler Installation
Fuel Filler Installation  Fuel Filler Assembly The fuel filler hoses and clamps are provided with the kit, use one small and one large clamp for each side. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 645: 1997-2002 Fuel Tanks
1997-2002 Fuel tanks Slip the fuel filler over the tank inlet first, then with both hose clamps over the hose, slip it onto the filler cap. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 646 Make sure the hoses are seated and tighten the hose clamps. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 647: 2003-2004 Fuel Tanks
2003-2004 Fuel tanks You will have to trim the large end off of the supplied filler necks in order to fasten them to the filler caps. Draw a line at the beginning of the point where the hose transitions from 2.25” diameter to 3” diameter.
Page 648 Install the cut end of the filler neck onto the filler cap. Clamp tight. Once you have the filler hose in position it isn’t uncommon for it to be against the body. Make sure there are no sharp/rough edges that the hose could rub on, possibly cutting the hose. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 649: Windshield Wipers And Washer Fluid Tank
Windshield Wipers and Washer Fluid Tank  ”, ¼” drill bits, drill, marker, rivet gun, 4mm Hex key.  Windshield Wiper Hardware (FFR# 25529). The windshield washer fluid tank (FFR# 25392) mounts to the chassis under the steering shaft. Trial fit it into position - it is easiest to pass it from the bottom through the middle of the lower control arm.
Page 650 The mounting bracket for the top mount is a small piece of angle aluminum (FFR# 10648). Fit the tank into position so that there is clearance around the steering shaft and line up the mount bracket with the forward mounting boss on the tank. Mark the bracket at the tank mount and by tracing the sides of the tube on the top.
Page 651 Remove the bracket and drill a ¼” hole to mount the tank and two ” holes to rivet the bracket to the chassis. Put the bracket back in position to mark the frame then drill and rivet the bracket in place. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 652 Bolt the tank into position using the two ¼”-20 button head screws and nuts provided. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 653 Place the Wiper Motor Mount Plate (FFR# 25391) along the edge of the ¾” shock tower support tube on the passenger side and the top of the footbox front wall aluminum. Mark the location for the rivnuts (4 total). Drill the Rivnut holes using a ”...
Page 654 Grind down both sides of the knob at the end of the wiper motor arm until it’s flush with the arm. Drill out the remaining material, starting with a small drill bit, and work your way up to a 3/8” bit – this hole will be used for the linkage rod end.
Page 655 Using the three Corvette screws that held the motor in place, fasten the motor to the mount plate (T-30 Torx). Place a nylon spacer (FFR# 10960) between the frame and the mount plate at each of the rivnuts and bolt the plate into position using the supplied ¼”-20 x 1.5”...
Page 656  For the bolt at the front corner of the plate, you may have to use the supplied washers as well as the nylon spacer to prevent the bolt from bottoming out before the plate is firmly in place (See photo).
Page 657 Screw the supplied section of threaded rod (FFR# 25723) into the rod end on the wiper motor. Slide the aluminum tube (FFR# 25934) over the threaded rod and measure how much of the aluminum tube will need to be trimmed once the rod end is screwed on. Trim the tubing with a tubing cutter/hacksaw/cutoff wheel.
Page 658 Install the wiper wheel box onto the body using the supplied ¼-20 hardware. Install the rod end on the wiper wheel box arm with the supplied jam nut (FFR# 25725) (½”, ” wrenches). www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 659 Install the wiper blade (FFR# 25629) onto the wiper arm (FFR# 25552). Clip the wiper arm onto the shaft of the wiper wheel box, making sure that the tab on the arm clips into the channel on the wheel box shaft (clip shown). Using the supplied clear tubing with the windshield washer fluid tank, press the tube onto the barbed end of the motor in the tank.
Page 660 Route the hose through the recess in the tank, up to the top of the tank. Drill a hole in the cowl bracing aluminum and route the hose to the underside of the body. Drill a hole in the body for the barbed elbow fitting for the windshield washer nozzle. Insert the fitting and hook it up to the clear plastic hose.
Page 661 Clip the nozzle onto the wiper blade. Fill the tank with fluid, and spray the windshield. Check the sweep by turning the wipers on – start with the slowest setting to avoid damaging the linkage or running the wiper beyond the windshield. Make any necessary adjustments, and the linkage installation is complete.
Page 662: Door Handles/ Liners
Door Handles/ Liners  Hacksaw, marker, ”, ¼”, ” drill bits, drill, Phillips head Screwdriver, ” wrench, vise, ruler/tape measure.  Door liner (L, R) (FFR# 25744, 25745), Door handle and Fasteners (FFR# 25422). The inside door handles need to be trimmed with a hack saw to fit in the door panel. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 663 Trim the four feet off of the handle flush with the screw hole. Insert the door handle into the door liner so that the front prongs go over the edge of the plastic. It may be necessary to grind the door liner to allow this. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 664 Insert the screw from the inside of the door handle through the mounting bracket and attach with a nut. Tighten the retaining nut with a Philips head screwdriver and ” wrench. Locate the donor car door handles and mark each one with a line next to each mounting hole to give their vertical location.
Page 665 Fit the door handles into position on the door and measure ” toward the front of the door from the end of the line you scribed and mark for the mounting holes. (taping the door handle in place from the front may be helpful) www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 666 Drill the holes with a ¼” drill bit. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 667 Bolt the exterior door handles into position on the doors using the original hardware. The handle should have its original gasket around the outside and can be shimmed and adjusted for a good fit. The door linkage from the donor car is re-used for the inner and outer door handles. Locate the short piece of linkage from the door with the threaded section at one end.
Page 668 Measure 3” from the bend in the threaded linkage piece and cut with a hack saw. On the remaining threaded piece measure in ½” and 1” from the non-threaded end and mark. Bend the rod in a vice at the 1” mark in the same direction as the kink until it is perpendicular to the threaded section.
Page 669 Bend the rod at the ½” mark 45˚ back in the original direction. Install the rod and clip into the door. The bent end hooks through the outer door handle and the clip and threaded end snaps into the lower hole on the door latch from the outside. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 670 Line the inner door liner up to the door so that there is an even gap around the outside. Drill for the fasteners around the outside of the door with a ¼” drill. You can use more of the screws on the bottom as they will be hidden by the armrest.
Page 671 Drill the holes on the door with a larger ” bit and install ¼”-20 rivnuts to hold the door panel in place. Find the long linkage from the donor door that hooked up the original inside door handle, use the longer of the two pieces with the U-shaped bend at one end.
Page 672 Hook the U-bend end into the door latch and install the door liner with the single bend end poking out of the door handle hole. Line the inner handle up to the door and bend the linkage to fit the handle. Once the linkage is the correct length and functioning properly screw the handle in place.
Page 673: Rear Splash Guards
Rear Splash Guards  Eye protection, drill w/#6 hex nut driver, ⅛”, ” drill bits, drill, rivet gun, silicone, caulking gun, #6 self tapping screws.  Rear Splash Guard Assembly (FFR# 25688). The process for installing the rear splash guards is the same for both driver and passenger side (all pictures below were taken from passenger side).
Page 674 Rear Front Upper www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 675 Front Large Install the front large panel next. Rivet the lower flange to the side of the front lower panel. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 676 Install the front upper piece now. This piece in riveted in place along the center, front lower and front large panels. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 677 The rear splash guard is now installed. This is a large panel and seals the rear section of the wheel wells. Rivet this panel in place on the inner edge attaching it to the flange on the center splash. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 678: Exhaust/ Rear Mesh
Drill and rivet the bottom of this panel through the body using ” rivets. Exhaust/ Rear Mesh  ” Hex, ½”, ” wrenches, tape measure, 3½” hole saw or jigsaw, shears/tin snips, pliers, silicone, caulking gun.  Exhaust – H Pipe Assembly, Exhaust Mount Hardware, Screen – Exhaust (L, R). Locate the tailpipe assembly with hardware and gaskets.
Page 679 Bolt the tailpipes in place, you can leave the gaskets out for now as this will have to be removed for the mesh installation ( ” Hex, ” wrench). www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 680 Loosely assemble the H-Pipe hangers with the supplied hardware. Bolt the hanger to the tab welded to the H-Pipe (½” wrench). Remove one of the transmission housing nuts and put the lower end of the H-Pipe hanger on the stud. Tighten the hanger in place.
Page 681 With the lower joint slightly loose on the catalytic converters center the exhaust tips in the rear of the body and tighten both the lower joint on the catalytic converter pipes and the sliders on the exhaust hangers. Measure the distance from the outside flange on each side of the exhaust opening to the center of the exhaust tip.
Page 682 Transfer this measurement to the tailpipe mesh pieces and mark the center for a hole. Drill or cut with a jig saw a 3½” hole in the center of the mesh. Using tin snips or shears cut ½” slice around the outside perimeter of the holes about ½” apart. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 683 Using a pair of pliers carefully bend the tabs inward to form a radiused edge where the exhaust tip passes through. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 684 Remove the tailpipe and slide both pieces of mesh over the ends. Install the mesh using silicone and tape in place until dry. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 685: License Plate Lights
License Plate Lights  ”, ” drill bits, drill, Rivet gun, ½” wrench, ” Hex key, wire strippers, solder, soldering gun  License Plate Lights. Center the license plate in the recess and mark the two upper holes. Use a ”...
Page 686: Diffuser
Tighten the light down using a ½” wrench and a ” Hex key. Solder the red wire into the positive wire for the tail light circuit. Solder the black wire into the ground circuit. Cover any soldered joint with heat shrink, or electrical tape and repeat for the other light. Make sure the lights are aimed correctly and illuminate the whole plate, then tighten if necessary.
Page 687: Dash
Dash  ”, ¼”, ” drill bits, drill, silicone, caulking gun, Low-Tack Tape, Rivnut tool, clamps, silver/white marker, 2.25” hole saw, jig saw or similar, razor knife, ” Hex key.  Stitched Interior components, Shifter Handle Components, dash components Dash Vents Remove the Dash Vents from the boxes.
Page 688 Insert the retaining cup into the cutout in the dash. There are small clips indexed in the retaining cup meant to put pressure against the back of the dash panel. Make sure that these clips mount against the small tabs in the dash cutout (see photos). www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 689 Insert the vent face into the retaining cup.  Check the rotation of the vent face, it should be able to rotate 360°.  check to be sure the vent face opens and closes properly. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 690: Center Console
Repeat for the other side pod and the two vent locations in the center console. Center Console Install the center console in the car so that the dash sits up on the body lip and the center area is sitting up on the shifter handle.
Page 691 With the tranaxle in neutral, mark around the shifter handle on the underside of the center console. Remove the center console from the car and use a 2.25” hole saw to drill through the console at the shifter location marked. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 692 Reinstall the console in the car so that it sits down nice and tight on the frame.  Before doing the next steps, make sure that you have oil in your transaxle and that it has been correctly broken in so that the shift forks do not stick. Check the clearance of the shifter handle by carefully shifting through the gears including reverse.
Page 693 Use a white or light colored marker to mark the top of the console where it needs to be trimmed to allow for ⅛”- ¼” clearance around the handle. Keep in mind, when you shift hard, the handle will go just a bit further.
Page 694 Remove the console again! Cut the cover material on the line you marked so that it will not get messed up by a saw blade. Use a jig saw or similar to trim the area marked. Re install the console and recheck the handle for clearance. Trim again if necessary. ...
Page 695: Dash Pods
Attach the center console to the frame. Dash Pods With the center console in the car, position and clamp the right dash pod to the center console so that the top of the console in front of the pod is level with the top area of the pod and the point on the bottom inside of the pod aligns with the bottom of the center console.
Page 696 Install and clamp the left dash pod the same way. On the inside of the left dash pod, drill (4) ” holes through the mounting flange so that they are spread evenly around the flange. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 697 Unclamp and remove the left dash pod only. With the right dash pod still clamped, carefully remove the center console assembly from the car. One hole at a time drill a ” hole and rivet using ” long rivets around the mounting flange on the right dash pod.
Page 698 www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 699 Place the Dash Face in the driver side pod and from the back of the dash; trace the contour of the mounting flange onto the back of the dash face. On the left side of the center console, drill out the four mounting holes made previously using a ”...
Page 700 Drill out the mounting holes on the left dash pod using a ¼” drill bit. Reinstall the center console assembly in the car for the last time with the front console flange on top of the body flange and the center section sitting down on the frame tubes. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 701 Install the left dash pod using the ¼”-20 x ¾” flange head screws. Attach the bottom of the right dash pod to the 1.50” square tube using ” rivets. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 702: Gauge Panel
Gauge panel Apply some masking tape to the edges of the gauge panel and drill four ” holes in the gauge panel, 2 at the top of the dash face and 1 on either side of the dash face near the bottom just before the panel begins to wrap under the dash.
Page 703 Reconnect the plugs you used for the instrument wiring. Install the dash front face over the steering column and firmly against the mounting flange on the side pod. Line up the holes in the dash face with the rivnuts on the mounting flange. Bolt the face to the flange with the supplied 10-32 screws.
Page 704: Fog Light Switch
Fog Light Switch  ¾” hole saw, round file  Dash and components Decide where you would like to locate the switches. Drill ¾” holes in the center console. Use a round file to open the holes up slightly so the switches will fit. Insert the switches in the Center Console.
Page 705: Hazard Switch
Hazard switch  ¾” hole saw, round file  Dash and components Decide where you would like to locate the switches. Drill ¾” holes in the center console. Use a round file to open the holes up slightly so the switches will fit. Insert the switches in the Center Console.
Page 706: Column Cover Installation
Column Cover Installation Install the top column cover. Make sure to bolt it in place with the Torx head screw (a 4mm socket will work if you don’t have the Torx bit). Install the lower steering column cover, clipping it into the top cover and bolting it in place with the two Corvette bolts you took off in the donor part preparation section.
Page 707: Emergency Brake Cover Plate
Emergency Brake Cover Plate  ⅛” drill bit, drill, marker, Rivet Gun  Aluminum Panel – Emergency Brake Cover Plate. Drill an ⅛” hole in each corner of the aluminum panel. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 708 Slide the panel over the emergency brake – you may have to lift the handle to allow you to get the panel over the handle and down to the opening in the tunnel panel. Using the holes in the panel as a reference, mark the rivet locations on the tunnel panel and rivet the panel in place.
Page 709: Front Upper Wheel Well And Pedal Box Cover Aluminum
Front Upper Wheel Well and Pedal Box Cover Aluminum  ⅛” drill bit, drill, silicone, caulking gun, marker.  Aluminum Panels – Wheel well Upper (R, L), Aluminum Panel - Pedal Box cover Plate (R, L). Take the upper wheel well aluminum pieces out of the box. The driver side panel is the one with the hole in it.
Page 710 Measure the rivet locations on the lower flange. Drill the panel accordingly with a ” drill bit. Cut a section of the supplied rubber push on trim and apply to the top edge of the panel. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 711 Apply a bead of silicone to the top of the outside footbox wall where the Upper Wheel well panel will mount to. Set the aluminum panel in place. The “L” shaped flange on the panel goes behind the body. Make sure the bulb seal has good contact with the body so the footbox is entirely sealed off. ...
Page 712 Rivet the lower flange in place. Repeat for the other side. Set the Pedal Box Cover Plate into position and mark the rivet locations on all three sides. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 713: Front Wheel Well Rear Splash Guard Aluminum
Drill the panel according to the marks you made, apply silicone to the frame/mounted aluminum, and rivet the panel in place. Front Wheel Well Rear Splash Guard Aluminum  Eye protection, drill w/#6 hex nut driver, ⅛” drill bits, drill, rivet gun, silicone, caulking gun, #6 self tapping screws.
Page 714 2. Mark the rivet spacing and drill ” holes along the bent flanges. Cut and install the bulb seal on panel as shown. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 715 Fit panel with the bent flanges against footbox and the bulb seal against the inner body. The top outer corner should fit behind the hood latch mechanism. Once properly fit, secure panel with a few #6 self tapping screws. Drill and rivet into place. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 716: Body Close-Out Panels
Body Close-out Panels  ⅛” drill bit, drill, tin snips.  Aluminum Panel – Body Close-out, Rear (L, R), Aluminum Panel – Body Close-out, Front (L, R), Rubber Push on Trim. Front Cut a section of the body seal and apply to the outside edge of the aluminum panel. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 717: Rear
Place the panel on the frame, making sure that the rubber seal has good contact with the body and rivet it to the frame. Also make sure the top aluminum flange fits as tightly as possible to the underside of the body.
Page 718 Cut a section of bulb seal and apply to the top and outside edges of the aluminum. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 719: Door Sill Carpet
Set the panel in place, making sure the bulb seal has good contact with the body. The flange on the close out panel should be on the outside of the door sill panel. Rivet the panel to the lower door sill panel. Repeat for the other side.
Page 720 Set the carpet in place. Make sure that it doesn’t protrude past the edge of the body. Make any adjustments needed to make sure all of the seams fit tightly and there is no overlap between the carpet on the floor and the door sill carpet. Check the fit around the seat belts –...
Page 721: Aluminum Door Sill Covers
Apply the carpet. Reinstall the seat belts. Repeat for the passenger side. Aluminum Door Sill Covers  ⅛” drill bit, drill, silicone, caulking gun.  Aluminum Panel – Door Sill Cover (L, R). Set the driver side door sill in place so that the flange is on the inside of the car and the front edge of the aluminum is as close to the front edge of the door opening.
Page 722: Cockpit Upper Side Walls And Rear Hatch Release
Cockpit Upper Side Walls and Rear Hatch Release  ” Hex, ” drill bit, drill, Phillips screwdriver.  Cockpit Side Wall Brackets (L, R), Aluminum Panel – Cockpit Upper side Wall (L, R), Rear Hatch Handle, Rear Hatch Cable, Rear Hatch Handle Screws. Reinstall the cockpit side wall brackets with the supplied ¼”-20 bolts ( ”...
Page 723 Set the passenger side wall in place and drill pilot holes in the lower section of the panel (where it mounts to the frame) and in the side wall bracket you just installed ( ” drill bit) (Shown without body closeout installed, without lower cockpit side wall carpeted).
Page 724 Mount the panel with the supplied screws. Before installing the driver side panel, install the hatch release cable to the handle. Insert the rear hatch handle in the panel, sliding the cable through the hole first. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 725 Drill two pilot holes ( ” drill bit) for the handle screws. Screw the handle in place with the supplied Phillips head screws. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 726: Rear Hatch Release Cable
Rear Hatch Release Cable  ” Hex, ” drill bit, drill, Phillips screwdriver, Regular screwdriver.  Rear Hatch Cable, Insulated Line Clips. Route the cable along the frame, using the supplied ¼” insulated clips to hold it in place. Insert the cable through the hole on the driver side of the receiver. Hood Release Cable ...
Page 727 Drill a ” hole in the upper wheel wells that will allow you to route the cable under the master cylinders on the driver side and under the ¾” square steel tube welded to the top of the shock tower that creates the top of the footbox (Shown without upper wheel well or pedal box cover panels installed).
Page 728 Connect the end of each cable to the latch mechanism, making sure the cables are away from the wheels. Mount the passenger cable in place with some of the ¼” insulated line clips. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 729: Windshield, Rear Hatch And Side Window Glass
Mount the Corvette handle to the supplied bracket and mount the bracket/release handle somewhere you can reach it easily. A good spot is near the outside of the footbox wall next to the fuse panel. Windshield, rear hatch and side window glass ...
Page 730: Finishing Touches
Finishing Touches Headlight Alignment  Masking tape, marker, tape measure  Make sure that the car is at the correct ride height before the alignment procedure is done. Ride height should be 4½” at the front and 4½” at the back measured to the bottom of the 4” round tube with the normal number of people/weight in the car.
Page 731 On a piece of masking tape, draw one horizontal line on the wall at a height exactly 2 inches lower than Measurement A. On the line, make vertical marks both to the right and left of the vehicle centerline mark at the distance of Measurement B from the vehicle centerline vertical line.
Page 732: Alignment Specifications
Alignment Specifications Take your new car to an alignment shop and have the car aligned properly before hitting the track. A minor flaw in alignment can cause very “twitchy” handling. Avoid temptation and never drive a car without proper alignment. Toe In Camber Caster...
Page 733: Appendix A - Torque Specifications
Appendix A - Torque Specifications Suspension Bolts Location Ft-Lb Front lower control arm cam bolt Front upper control arm bolts Front coil over to frame mount (upper/lower) Rear lower control arm front bolt Rear lower control arm rear bolt Rear upper control arm Rear coil over to frame mount (upper/lower) Rear suspension tie rod nut (frame side) Front lower coil over mount to lower control arm...
Page 734 Thread Metric Zinc Plated Ft-Lb. ATTENTION: Use the following specs in order to torque Stainless Bolts. ” 11 ft-lb (132 in-lb) 16 ft-lb (192 in-lb) ⅜” www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 735: Appendix B - Donor Specs By Year
Appendix B – Donor Specs by Year Gen. III Horsepower/Torque by Model Year Model Year Engine/Application 2001 * 1997 1998 1999 2000 2002 2003 2004 350/360 A 350/360 A 350/360 A 350/360 A 350/375 M 350/375 M 350/375 M 350/375 M LS1 5.7 Corvette 345/350 345/350 345/350 345/350 LS6 5.7 Corvette...
Page 736: Appendix C - Donor Parts Required
Appendix C – Donor Parts Required FRONT SUSPENSION LH Front lower control arm (rubber bushings installed and each ball-joints pressed in) 10326693-LH RH Front lower control arm (rubber bushings installed and each ball-joints pressed in) 10326694-RH each LH Front upper control arm (rubber bushings installed) 10333408-LH each RH Front upper control arm (rubber bushings installed)
Page 737 1.0mm)('01-'04) each 4 crush washers 21012386 pair Front brake pads 12530681 Lug-nuts for front suspension (M12 x 1.5mm)(Stainless steel each capped) 9595165 REAR SUSPENSION LH Rear lower control arms (rubber bushings installed and each ball-joints pressed in) 10233635-LH RH Rear lower control arm (rubber bushings installed and ball- each joints pressed in) 10233636-RH...
Page 738 each 4 crush washers 21012386 pair Rear brake pads 12530688 Lug-nuts for rear suspension (M12 x 1.5mm)Stainless steel each capped) 9595165 each Outer CV-joints 12532153 each Locknuts for outer CV-joints (M27 x 2mm) 10257766 Rear toe link, 7844424-boot/7844100-sm clamp/26036823-lg each clamp 88955489 each...
Page 739 each Fuel sender feed hose rear ('97-'98) 10404931 each Fuel feed hose rear w/check valve ('97-'98) 10413424 each Fuel return hose rear ('97-'98) 10404927 each Fuel feed hose rear w/check valve ('99-'02) ('03 first design) 10448899 each Fuel press. reg. return hose rear ('99-'02) ('03 first design) 10448903 each Fuel aux.
Page 740 each Long 4 wire oxygen sensors 25312202 each Vehicle speed sensor (VSS) with mounting bracket 12369458 each VSS connector w/leads (black) ('97-'04) 88987993 each VSS connector w/leads (gray) ('01-'04) 15306302 each Engine Harness 12189523 each Brown plug that connects to the under-hood fuse box 15303514 each Gray plug that connects to the under-hood fuse box...
Page 741 each LH Power window mechanism w/motor 10344131-LH each RH Power window mechanism w/motor 10344132-RH each Window motor connector w/leads 15305982 each LH Seat belt 88893517-LH each RH Seat belt 88893521-RH each Seat belt upper bolt plastic covers 10258492 each LH Seat belt receptacle 88956391-LH each RH Seat belt receptacle...
Page 742: Appendix D - Heat & A/C Installation
Appendix D – Heat & A/C Installation GTM A/C Evaporator Kit  Heater & A/C evaporator kit  Ratchet, ” socket, Hose crimping tool (some parts stores can do this for you), Wire cutters, Wire crimpers, Philips head screwdriver, ”, ”, ”...
Page 743 Remove the 4 screws from the front bracket on the Evaporator (Phillips screwdriver). Begin the install by sliding the front end of the Evaporator to the front of the footbox and up towards the top. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 744 Turn the back end of the Evaporator into the center of the car, making sure the bracket at the front of the Evaporator stays above the 1” tube at the front of the footbox and slide the front of the Evaporator toward the center of the car.
Page 745  You may have to trim the front of the mounting bracket to clear the front aluminum panel (See below). www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 746 Once in place, the plenums at the back of the unit should be between the Dash Bulkhead “X” and the 1.5” Dash Bulkhead upright tube. If you need clearance fitting the Evaporator unit into the chassis due to the routing of your coolant lines/tubes you can mount the bracket under the 1” square tube if necessary. Before drilling any holes for the Evaporator make sure the unit isn’t resting on the coolant tubes and there is enough room to install the A/C hoses underneath (Shown without footbox front wall installed).
Page 747 Unscrew the Blower Motor Extension from the Blower Motor (Phillips screwdriver). If necessary, lift up the Evaporator so that the lower screw fastening the Blower Motor Extension to it is on the inside of the ¾” diagonal. Make sure that the angled edge of the extension is parallel with the ¾” diagonal tube in the center of the chassis.
Page 748 Move the Evaporator out of the way and drill two holes with a 25/64” drill bit and install two ¼” riv-nuts. Move the Evaporator unit back into place and bolt it in place using the supplied ¼”-20 bolts ( ” socket). Bolt the FFR supplied bracket to the back of the Evaporator ( ”...
Page 749 Drill two ” holes in the bracket, then through the 1.5” upright and rivet the bracket to the frame. Screw the Extension onto the Evaporator. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 750 Screw the Blower Motor onto the Extension using the 6 supplied screws. Drain Port Install the supplied drain hose onto the port on the bottom of the Evaporator unit and route the hose to the bottom of the aluminum undercarriage panel. If possible, you can use one of the existing holes by opening it up with a ”...
Page 751 Trim the Footbox Center Roof Panel (FFR# 25181) to allow space for the dash vent and defroster duct hoses. Leave enough of the panel intact to cover the top of the footbox on the outside of the body and under the wiper enclosure. Routing the hoses with footbox roof panel already trimmed.
Page 752 Setting the dash in place temporarily as you route each hose will help to allow for the correct length and allow you plenty of access. Use the forward most plenum for the passenger side pod duct, the rear two plenums for the center ducts and the plenum second from the front for the driver side dash vent.
Page 753 Cut a small section of the 2.5” hose (about 4”) and fasten one end to the supplied hose adapter. Install the other end to the top plenum on the back of the Evaporator unit (use a zip tie to hold each end in place) and route the hose to the bottom of the driver side inner footbox wall.
Page 754 To locate the opening in the dash for the defroster ducts, using the duct opening as a template, place the duct on the underside of the dash such that the center of the opening is approximately in line with the side flange of the dash.
Page 755: Gtm A/C Hose
GTM A/C Hose  Heater & A/C hose kit  Rivnut tool, Wire cutters, Wire crimpers, 4 mm Hex key, ” drill bit, Drill, 134a charge and oil Installation Instructions  Refer to the manufacturers directions (See Appendices E, F) on routing the hoses for the A/C system.
Page 756 Locate the Corvette Accumulator on the chassis according to the picture below. Make sure that the line supplied by Vintage Air for the outside, larger line coming from the upper portion of the Evaporator unit (See hose routing diagram) will reach the Accumulator (Shown with hoses already installed). Install a ¼”-20 Rivnut in the 1”...
Page 757 Install the line connecting the lower port on the Condenser and the Evaporator port per the Vintage Air diagram. Install the hard elbows onto the heater ports on the side of the Evaporator unit. Now you will need to cut the ”...
Page 758 Install the heater control valve in the ” heater hose between the section you just installed onto the heater inlet elbow on the Evaporator and the Coolant Reservoir. Follow the supplied diagrams for instructions on how to wire the control valve. Install the Orifice tube and A/C line according to the Vintage Air diagram/instructions.
Page 759 Route the compressor lines through the tunnel and connect them to the back of the compressor. If you haven’t done so already, it will help to remove the interior engine cover to access the hoses. Once you have the hose routed through the tunnel, the end with the Low Side Service Port (blue cap, see diagram) will connect to the Accumulator using the Corvette bolt.
Page 760 The other hose will connect to the upper port on the front side of the Condenser with the Corvette bolt. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 761 Next locate the “AC request signal wire” that the OEM HVAC used to tell the PCM to enable AC. This signal wire runs through connector C150 (the same connector used for OBDII signal and VSS signals), and is Dark Green and White. If you are using a stand alone system, screw the safety switch onto the inline fitting specified on the Vintage Air Diagram as “Safety Switch”...
Page 762 Supply power to the A/C request signal wire by connecting the blue 12V source wire from the Vintage air unit to the A/C signal wire (the vintage air power wire is Blue).  You will need to keep the OEM compressor control wiring which are two wires. One is dark green and runs from the OEM fuse block C3 - Pin B9 to the compressor.
Page 763: Heat & A/C Hose Kit Routing Diagram
Heat & A/C Hose kit Routing Diagram www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 764: Heat & A/C Servicing Procedure
Heat & A/C Servicing Procedure www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...

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