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Factory Five Racing Mk4 Roadster Assembly Manual

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R E V I S I O N 3 P , J U L Y 2 0 1 3


Table of Contents

  Summary of Contents for Factory Five Racing Mk4 Roadster

  • Page 1 R E V I S I O N 3 P , J U L Y 2 0 1 3...
  • Page 2  2013 Factory Five Racing Inc. 9 Tow Rd Wareham, MA 02571 Phone 508.291.3443 • Fax 508.291.3883...
  • Page 3: Table Of Contents

    Table of Contents General Information ..............12 Foreword ..................12 Safety Notice ................. 15 Safety Tips ..................16 How to use This Book ..............17 What You Get ................17 What You Need ................18 Major Components ................18 Serial Number Identification ............20 Tools List ..................
  • Page 4 Speedometer and Clutch Cables ............42 Shifter and Shifter handle ..............43 Emergency Brake Handle ..............43 Fuel Inertia cut-off switch ..............44 Rear and Transmission Wiring Harnesses ..........44 Exhaust ....................45 Engine Removal .................. 45 Front Suspension ................. 47 Fuel Tank.....................
  • Page 5 Aluminum Removal ............... 81 Chassis Assembly ..............86 Rivet Spacing Tool ................ 87 Engine bay F panel aluminum ............87 Engine bay F panel aluminum ............87 Front Suspension ................90 Front lower control arm ................ 90 Front upper control arm ................ 91 Pivot endplay ..................
  • Page 6 Optional IRS Brakes..............143 Firewall & Driver Front Footbox Aluminum ........147 Pedal Box ..................149 87-93 Pedal Box ................149 94-04 Pedal Box ................153 Accelerator Cable................ 154 87-93 Fuel Injected and Carbureted Applications ....... 155 94-04 Fuel Injected Applications............156 Accelerator Pedal ................
  • Page 7 Gauge Pod Installation ..............219 Ignition and Turn signal stalk ............221 Trunk Aluminum ................222 Battery Mounting and Cable ............225 Drivetrain Preparation ..............232 Aftermarket TKO 500 and TKO 600 prep ..........232 99-04 Transmission mount ..............233 87-93 Alternate Drive Pulley ...............
  • Page 8 Stainless Radiator Hoses ..............280 87-93 Fan Wiring ................284 Aluminum panels................. 287 Transmission Tunnel Cover..............287 Driver Footbox Side Aluminum ............288 Emergency Brake................ 289 E-brake Handle .................. 289 E-brake Cables .................. 291 Engine Ground ................296 Seats ................... 297 Nameplate ...................
  • Page 9 Trunk Hinge ..................368 Trunk Latch ..................371 Body Cut-outs ................374 Fuel filler .................... 374 Tail light ..................... 375 Turn Signal ..................377 License plate light ................378 Side exhaust ..................380 Headlights..................382 Side louver ..................385 Hood and Scoop ................386 Roll bar ....................
  • Page 10 Interior Rearview Mirror ............... 449 Side Mirror .................. 451 Light wiring .................. 456 Check straps ................457 Under door Aluminum ..............460 Steering wheel center section ............. 461 Side Exhaust ................463 Aluminum Splash guards ............468 Front Wheel ..................469 Rear Wheel ..................
  • Page 11 Helpful ....................494 Catalogs/Parts ................... 494 Factory Five Aftermarket ..............494 Tools ....................494 Insurance ................... 494 A Final Note about Completed Cars and Car Builders ....495 Appendix A – Templates ............496 Appendix B – Donor Parts List ..........509 Appendix C –...
  • Page 12 Fuel tank, pump, pick ups, vents ............540 Fuel lines, fuel filter and bracket ............541 Emergency brake handle ..............541 Rear quad shocks ................541 Spindles ..................... 541 Rear 4 link control arms ..............541 Front lower control arms..............541 Springs ....................
  • Page 13: General Information

    Chapter General Information Foreword f you are reading this, you are embarking on a mission to build your own car, or at least considering doing so. I wanted to share with you some of my experiences and lessons learned while working with literally thousands of people who have completed this...
  • Page 14 part of the very definition of always trying to go faster. The late Carroll Smith wrote something I really loved that speaks to this point. “There is no magic! The one basic truth of successful racecar preparation bears repeating. There is no magic. There is only logic, common sense, forethought, vast amounts of hard work, and a fanatic dedication to the task at hand”.
  • Page 15 You will join a community of others who have earned their own… and THAT is the story of Factory Five Racing and that is what awaits you in this process.
  • Page 16: Safety Notice

    If, while building, driving or racing this Factory Five Racing kit, should you become injured or die, it will be the result of your own conscious decision and we at Factory Five Racing, Inc., disclaim any responsibility of any kind.
  • Page 17: Safety Tips

    Safety Tips  Read the manual. It is at least a good guide and place to start.  Don’t take short cuts.  Before starting work, make sure you have the proper tools, the required parts, and sufficient space for the job.
  • Page 18: How To Use This Book

    How to use This Book This Assembly manual is intended to help you build your Factory Five Kit. This book will not explain such things as engine or transmission building. A secondary purpose of this book is to use it as reference for owners that want to do maintenance work on their cars or for those that purchase finished cars, to understand their cars better.
  • Page 19: What You Need

    Gauges and Dash and Electrical Assembly: Base kit parts are included to adapt the Mustang wiring harness. The kit comes with components to build your car with an authentic original street style dash. Complete assembly comes with aluminum dash, padded vinyl dash cover, toggle switches and indicator lights, Mustang gauge conversion kit with machined bezels, spacers, wiring extensions, fasteners and lenses.
  • Page 20 Driveshaft: 1987-2004 Ford Mustang. Rear End: 1987-2004 Ford 8.8” rear axle. 1987-1993 width is optimal Paint: Most customers will send out the body and paint work to a professional body shop. Radiator and Fan shroud: 1987-2004 Ford Mustang. Steering Rack: 1987-2004 Ford Mustang. Fuel tank/pump and filter: 1987-2004 Ford Mustang.
  • Page 21: Serial Number Identification

    Wheels and Tires: See the appendix for complete recommended sizes. Serial Number Identification Factory Five Racing has included a Certificate of Origin along with a Nameplate for your kit. The serial number from the Certificate of Origin matches the number engraved on the 2”x 2” tube going across the car at the front of the cockpit.
  • Page 22: Tools List

    Tools List The following lists detail the tools and supplies that are needed to build your kit. The “helpful” items are not crucial to the assembly but make life easier. Home Depot HUSKY®, Sears CRAFTSMAN®, and Snap-On tools are all guaranteed for life and we’ve found them to be more reliable over discount tools.
  • Page 23: Required Supplies

    Required Supplies Stick with name brand products like Eastwood, 3M, and Duplicolor. The Eastwood brand coatings are great for bringing weathered and oxidized parts up to show quality. PPG brand and DuPont brand paints are excellent. Engine degreaser Silicone Door and window sealant, GE Silicone II or equivalent - 4 tubes Coolant –...
  • Page 24: Donor Parts And Prep

    Chapter Donor Parts and Prep 508-291-3443...
  • Page 25: The 5.0L Mustang

    This chapter deals with the Mustang parts needed in addition to our kit. Many people choose to use parts from a single Mustang donor. If you are not going to use a donor car but choose to acquire parts separately, this section may still be useful. The complete list of parts required to build the FFR Roadster is included in the Appendix of this manual.
  • Page 26: Donor Part Selection Tips

     The 4.6L engine is quiet while cruising and loud upon acceleration where the 5.0L is loud all the time.  The 4.6L gets better mpg for the same horsepower level.  The 4.6L engine is more expensive to upgrade parts. You have to buy two or four cams vs. one, etc... ...
  • Page 27: Where To Look

    When you attempt to start the vehicle, the computer sends out a RF signal that is picked up by the transponder in the key. The transponder then returns a unique RF signal to the vehicle's computer, giving it the ok for the vehicle to start and continue to run. The car will not work without the key. 1996-1997 PATS I System - This system requires at least one key in order to program another key.
  • Page 28: Price

    Specialties USA West Coast All Mustang Tommy Performance Phoenix, AZ 800-454-8387 Thompson Mustang Village Fontana, CA 909 823 7915 Scott or Tom Cypress Auto Berkley, CA 510 451 3034 Mike Percy Mustang Depot Las Vegas, NV 702 281 4517 Price Whether you’re buying a complete salvage yard car or a bunch of parts, it’s important to remember...
  • Page 29: Disassembly Of A Mustang Donor For Parts

    axles (from rollovers or hard side hits). These are not too hard to fix but it’s good to know up front when you’re planning your budget. A quick way to verify mileage is by inspecting the drum brake shoes on the unit. The drum pulls straight out, off the axle. Rear shoes are never really replaced until about 60-100K miles unless there was severe duty (read abuse) placed on the car.
  • Page 30: Radiator/Cooling System

    transmission mount, and the drive shaft). Think of this job as a reverse assembly line and it will go faster. If you are getting ready to disassemble a Mustang, please refer to the “donor parts list” Appendix. A Chilton’s repair manual has quite good step-by-step disassembly instructions for each assembly.
  • Page 31: 87-95 Brake Power Booster

    87-95 Brake Power Booster  Socket set, wrenches or box wrenches for brake lines, tube cutter, tape, and marker pen.  Mustang power booster push rod, brake light switch/spacer/clip. Remove the brake rod retainer clip from the top of the brake pedal. Remember the order in which these washers and spring clips are removed so that you can reinstall them faster later.
  • Page 32 Brake switch parts. Place a bucket under the Hydro-booster. Label all hoses that attach to the hydro booster. Disconnect the hoses draining them into the bucket. Attach tape to the brake lines and mark their positions on the master cylinder and distribution block. Remove the four bolts that connect the hydro boost mount and pedal box to the firewall On the Hydro-booster, remove the snap ring in front of the retaining nut inside the car Remove the nut that retains the hydro booster to the firewall using the tool provided with the kit.
  • Page 33: 1996-2004 Abs Brakes

    1997 Hydro-booster, Master cylinder, Hydro-boost retaining nut and snap ring. 1996-2004 ABS Brakes If power brakes are going to be used, an addition that is optional and not necessary but is very useful is the use of the ABS system from the Mustang. This does complicate the brake set-up but when driving the car the difference is noticeable.
  • Page 34: 96-04 Steering Rack And Power Steering Cooler

     Never heat or lubricate the tie rod end to make removal easier. Remove the two bolts that secure the steering rack to the frame and lower the rack out of the car. Mustang steering rack with lines removed with rubber bushings and fasteners. 96-04 Steering Rack and Power Steering Cooler ...
  • Page 35  Mustang coil, EGR assembly, vacuum lines, starter solenoid, mass air meter, and throttle cable.  Remember to identify both ends of every connector disassembled. The easy way to do this is to tape and number each side of the connector the same. The connectors will only work if they’re mated to the other similar shaped connector.
  • Page 36: Interior

    Remove and discard the front driver’s side plastic wheel well using a 7mm socket to loosen it from the body. Disconnect and remove the horns. They are located just forward of the wheel well on the driver’s side (accessed from the wheel well). Label and mark the connectors with tape. Interior ...
  • Page 37: Computer

    while moving the cable wheel toward the firewall. The clutch cable can be easily released from the grooved wheel at this point. Unbolt and remove the pedal box. 94-04 Pedal box assembly Computer  Socket set.  Mustang Computer and OEM plastic cradle. ...
  • Page 38: Gauge Cluster And Speedometer Cable

    EEC-IV computer and cradle. EEC-V computer. Remove the kick panel in the passenger footbox. Disconnect the ground strap in the footbox next to the computer. Remove the computer and its plastic holder from the passenger footbox area. Gauge Cluster and Speedometer Cable ...
  • Page 39: Turn Signal And Ignition Switches

    87-93 Mustang gauges mounted in gauge pod. Remove the two gauge wiring connectors from the gauge cluster by squeezing the outside clips. Remove the clear plastic gauge cover with a Torx screwdriver and discard. Place the switches and gauge pod in your parts area, awaiting kit assembly. Turn Signal and Ignition Switches ...
  • Page 40 96-04 Steering column (with ignition, turn signal stalk) Remove the steering column mounts located under the dash above the driver floor. Allow the column to fall down. Remove the wiring connectors have from the turn signal and ignition switches. Remove the turn signal stalk 96-04 Turn signal stalk.
  • Page 41: Dash Wiring Harness

    Key and anti-theft module Dash Wiring Harness  Socket set, extension, regular, Torx and Phillips head screwdrivers, needle nose pliers, hammer, and marker tape.  Dash wiring harnesses, 96-04 traction control switch  The wiring comes out in stages. Keep the sub-assemblies together as they are removed. Remember to identify both ends of every connector that you disassemble.
  • Page 42: Front Wiring Harness

    87-93 Dash harness with air bag and fuse panel attachments. Front Wiring Harness  Socket set, extension, regular, Phillips head screwdrivers, needle nose pliers, hammer, and marker tape.  Front wiring harnesses. Pull the rubber grommet out of the firewall into the engine bay. Remove the front light harness from the engine bay wall working from the starter solenoid area to the alternator.
  • Page 43: Speedometer And Clutch Cables

    87-93 Front wiring harness with hookups for headlights, alternator, and horn. Speedometer and Clutch Cables  Socket set, duct tape.  Speedometer cable and sending unit, clutch cable. Pull the speedometer cable out from the dash area keeping the rubber grommet that is on it in place. This grommet will also get used.
  • Page 44: Shifter And Shifter Handle

    Clutch cable and retainer circlip. Shifter and Shifter handle  Socket set, Phillips head screwdriver.  Shifter  The kit comes with new bolts for the shifter handle so you don’t need the OEM bolts. Save them anyway according to rule #85 of the car guys’ handbook which states “save any and all fasteners in rusty coffee cans”.
  • Page 45: Fuel Inertia Cut-Off Switch

    Fuel Inertia cut-off switch  Socket set, nut driver, Phillips head screwdriver, wire cutters to cut plastic fasteners, marker pen, and tape.  Fuel inertia cut-off switch.  It is recommended that a fuel inertia cut-off switch be used in the car. Inertia cut-off switch.
  • Page 46: Exhaust

    The rear harness ends at the front driver’s side of the cockpit. The transmission harness must be removed along with the rubber plug. This runs along the driver’s side of the transmission tunnel. Store the rear harness and transmission harness. Exhaust ...
  • Page 47 Attach an engine hoist to the engine lift points at the driver’s front and passenger’s rear areas of the engine. One easy way to do this is with a chain and bolt on the other side of the hole. An alternative to this is to wrap chains through the back of the engine mounts and bolt the chain together for lifting.
  • Page 48: Front Suspension

    2003 4.6L DOHC Engine and 3650 transmission There is an exhaust H-pipe tube holder plate sandwiched between the transmission mount and the transmission that must be removed. All you need is the transmission mount with the two bolts sticking down. Front Suspension ...
  • Page 49: Fuel Tank

    Lower A-arm w/bolts, brake caliper, spindle and brake rotor. Use a spring compression tool to remove the front springs or chain the spring to the chassis. Remove the three bolts that retain the struts to the top mounting plate. Slowly lower the Jack and the strut assembly will come out of the body mount (sometimes violently) and allow the lower control arm to go down.
  • Page 50: Rear End

    Loosen the rear wheel lug nuts. Raise the rear of the car and place on jack stands. Open the gas cap to relieve any pressure built up in the tank. Remove the screws that hold the upper fuel cap and flange to the body of the car. Remove the set screw and metal ring collar retainer from the fuel neck where it meets the tank.
  • Page 51: Fuel Filter And Connectors

    Lower the jack slowly with the rear end so that they come down together. When the rear end has dropped down low enough, you can easily remove the coil springs and upper rubber spring mount. Save the rubber bushings above and below the springs. Remove the bolts and nuts from the lower rear Mustang control arm, where the arms are mounted to the body/chassis.
  • Page 52: Donor Part Preparation

    96-98 Donor fuel system parts. Donor Part Preparation Rear Coil Springs  Hack saw or chop saw Rear coil spring. Remove the rubber tubular spacer from inside the coil. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 53: Rear End

    Cut one full coil from the top of the spring for correct ride height setting. Cut the upper rubber spring seat so that during assembly of the kit, it will conform to the spring mount on the frame. This is done with one cut across the part. Do not replace these bushings with aftermarket silicone pieces, as these will allow the springs to slide since they contain a slippery release agent in them.
  • Page 54 Stock 94-04 front lower. If using the stock 94-04 front lower control arms, drill a ½” hole in the spring seat area shown in the picture below using the rear end shock mount as a guide for height. If the hole is drilled too low, you will have to clearance the middle of the spring area so the shock will not hit when installed.
  • Page 55 Drilled and modified front lower control arm. Attach the rear shock mount to the control arm through the hole in the spring seat with the small leg sticking up. Check clearance with the new shock and the new mount. These parts must move freely without contacting the control arm surface.
  • Page 56: Fuel Filter Fittings

    Coil-over mounted in lower arm with clearance hole. Fuel Filter Fittings  Razor knife  Donor plastic fuel line fittings from fuel filter to body hard line and from return line from body hard line to fuel tank. Carefully with out damaging the plastic barb, cut the hard plastic off the plastic barbs. On 99-04 engines, cut the metal fuel line off the Fuel Pulse Dampener (disc shaped object in the fuel send line) on the inlet side.
  • Page 57: Fuel Tank

    Fuel Tank  Pliers  Fuel Tank At the locations on the tank where the tank straps come near the tank, use a pair of pliers and bend the bent parts flat. Fuel Filler Neck  Hack saw  Fuel Filler neck 87-98 - Cut the Mustang steel fuel neck in the mid-section after the 90...
  • Page 58 Uncut Filler Neck Cut Filler Neck 99-04 – Cut the donor filler neck just above the crimp line below the mounting flange. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 59: Brake Pedal

    Cut the filler neck above the bend but below where the small fuel tubes attach to the side of the larger tube making sure to leave enough room to attach a fuel filler hose and hose clamp. Brake Pedal  Hack saw ...
  • Page 60: Accelerator Pedal

    Cut the brake pedal between the mounting bolt and the master cylinder push rod attachment stud. Remove 1.5” from the middle and MIG weld the pedal back together. Make sure the top piece where the bolt is located is oriented correctly, as the spacer on each side of the pedal is different. Cut and welded pedal Accelerator Pedal Remove the plastic part of accelerator pedal by pushing out the pin.
  • Page 61: 87-93 Pedal Box

    Trim the accelerator pedal as shown, just above the plastic pedal support pad. It is possible to mount the original plastic pedal piece onto the shortened pedal if desired. This can be accomplished by squeezing the bottom of the trimmed pedal and drilling a hole for the stock pin. 87-93 Pedal Box ...
  • Page 62: 1994-2004 Pedal Box

    Mark the mounting face of the 1” up from the bottom of the mounting plate. Cut-off the marked area (bottom of the front mount flange) with a hack saw. This is necessary for steering shaft clearance. 1994-2004 Pedal Box  Drill, drill bits 508-291-3443...
  • Page 63 Cut line Drill out the four spot welds on the front face of the pedal box. Cut off the lower corner of clutch quadrant stop shown in the picture for accelerator pedal clearance. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 64: Wiring Harness

    Remove the brake pedal spring from its mount hole and remove the plate on the front of the pedal box along with the round spacers. Relocate brake pedal spring to pedal box triangular opening. Wiring Harness  Razor knife, electrical tape. ...
  • Page 65 Heater wires Air bag blue boxes and wires Electronic seat and window controls. Remote trunk release wires Not only does this take weight out of the car, it gives additional room behind the dash. Look at the plugs and compare them to a Chilton’s manual to make sure you are cutting the correct plug before actually cutting.
  • Page 66 Move the harness grommet backwards on the harness behind the short wiring “branch with the large rectangular plug on it. All of the remaining plugs should be pulled back behind the firewall plug. Rewrap the harness with electrical tape from where the grommet was back to the new grommet location. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 67: 87-95 Brake Power Booster Push-Rod

    87-95 Brake Power Booster Push-rod Remove the master cylinder from the power booster. The power brake assembly is changed to a manual brake assembly for this kit. This simple modification is done on many SCCA Mustangs for improved brake feel. In a 2,100 lb. car, the feedback is good and power brakes are not really necessary.
  • Page 68 87-95 - Bend the fuel lines away from the engine block just at the point where they are held in place by the retaining clips. This is so that the fuel does not travel near the hot header. Don’t make tight bends here or it will affect your fuel flow.
  • Page 69 96-04 Driver side manifold. 96-04 Passenger side manifold. Note the casting touches the block. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 70: Alternate Drive Pulley Preparation

    96-04 - Install the headers, leave the header on the correct side of the engine but flip them over so that they point forward Alternate Drive Pulley Preparation  Cordless drill, ½” drill bit, needle nose pliers  Alternate drive pulley template ...
  • Page 71: 87-95 Transmission

    Insert the spring pins back into the two front holes on the block. It may be helpful to put a dab of silicone to hold the pins in place until the bolts are installed. 87-95 Transmission  Hack Saw 508-291-3443...
  • Page 72: Steering Rack

    If you are running a T-5 Transmission, remove the casting tab with the hole in it that is sticking out on the passenger side with a hack saw. Steering Rack  ” and ⅝” wrenches, ruler, hack saw, marker. Remove the outer tie rods. Cut 1.75”...
  • Page 73: Intake Tube

    Old style Cut half of the passenger side power steering mount off. Drill a mounting hole in the bracket using a ” drill bit. Intake Tube  The year and type of engine may give a different style intake tube. Similar modifications can be done to different styles.
  • Page 74: 96-04 Air Filter Housing

    Uncut 1997 DOHC Cobra™ intake hose Cut the intake hose in the crease on the intake side of the bellow section marked in the picture. Make sure not to cut the large bellow section. 96-04 Air Filter Housing Unclamp the air filter housing from the Mass Air Meter. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 75 Mark the housing around the base of the dome. Cut the flange off the housing. Keep in mind, the flange is the part you want to keep. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 76: Cleaning And Detailing

    Re-assemble the air filter and cut flange clamping them together with the stock clamp. Cleaning and Detailing  Before you start assembling your car, cleaning is the best way to assess what needs to be done to the donor parts. Based on your close-up inspection you may choose to re-build or replace some of the parts that you have just removed.
  • Page 77: Not Using A Donor

     Wait until the wiring harness is installed and the car is running before you cover the harness up with a nice wrapping of electrical tape. If it’s dirty, wipe it off gently with a moist (not wet) rag.  Use common sense when cleaning these parts; don’t use a wire wheel on a drill close to any wires or lines.
  • Page 78: Disassembly Of The Kit

    Chapter Disassembly of the kit 508-291-3443...
  • Page 79: Unpacking Your Kit

    Unpacking Your Kit  Boxes are numbered, when you read your packing list you will see that next to each assembly there is a number circled. This is the box number that the assembly was packaged in. The kit is packaged in the order that you will be using the parts.
  • Page 80: Body Removal

    Body Removal  ⅝” socket, Ratchet, ⅝” wrench, gloves, 2 friends.  Be careful of the raw fiberglass edges, they can splinter into your skin Unbolt the door from the hinge leaving the hinge attached to the chassis. Cut the zip ties in the door latch area.
  • Page 81 Unbolt the body sides from the chassis on the underside of the car. Unbolt the Quick Jacks and remove the body. Two people can do this but it is much easier with a third person to pull the sides clear of the chassis. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 82: Aluminum Removal

    When you store the body on the ground (unsupported) for long periods of time you may get slight distortion (bowing) around the walls forward of the doors. In order to avoid the chance of this happening, we recommend putting two short 2”x 4” braces (24” long) under the windshield holes (running vertically to support the hood cowl area just forward of the doors under the windshield holes).
  • Page 83 Using a marker outline the underside of each panel where it contacts the chassis. This is done to locate where to drill rivet holes when the panels are permanently mounted later on. Mark each panel and take pictures of how the panels fit together (i.e. which is on top). Remove each panel after it has been marked until the chassis is bare.
  • Page 84 508-291-3443...
  • Page 85 508-291-3443...
  • Page 86 Use jack-stands to position your frame in your workspace with plenty of room to move things around. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 87: Chassis Assembly

    Chapter Chassis Assembly 508-291-3443...
  • Page 88: Rivet Spacing Tool

    Rivet Spacing Tool  Packaged Aluminum  In most cases we use a 3” rivet spacing when mounting aluminum panels to the chassis and a 2” spacing when mounting panel to panel. The rivet spacing tool has this hole spacing marked. The distance from the edge of the tool to the holes is correct to center the rivets on the ¾”...
  • Page 89 The “F” shaped aluminum panels that mount behind the suspension are mounted first. Locate them and mark your rivet pattern in the location you traced. Drill the panels using a ” bit then clean the marker lines and labeling off using acetone or brake cleaner.
  • Page 90 Apply silicone to the panel or chassis (whichever is easier) in the areas where they will make contact. Use the original #6 screws to remount the panel then drill the ” rivet holes through the panel holes into the chassis. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 91: Front Suspension

    Rivet the panel in place using ” short rivets, then remove the screws and replace them with rivets. Repeat for the other side. Front Suspension Front lower control arm  ⅞” socket, ” wrenches, Torque wrench  Mustang lower control arms and fasteners 508-291-3443...
  • Page 92: Front Upper Control Arm

    87-93 - Mount the lower control arms using the outer set of holes on the chassis using the supplied hardware. 94-04 - stock lower control arms, use the inner set of bolt holes. FFR tubular lower control arms - use the outer mounting holes. While holding the control arm parallel to the ground, torque the bolts to 135-149Nm (100-110 lbft).
  • Page 93 Put thread locker on the upper balljoint threads. Screw the upper ball joints into the control arms so that the balljoint angles out on the bottom 508-291-3443...
  • Page 94 Tighten the balljoint using the arm for leverage with a Vice holding the ball joint. Screw the grease fittings in to the ball joints and tighten with a ⅜” wrench. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 95: Pivot Endplay

    Mount the upper control arms to the chassis with the grease fittings pointed up. Use the mount holes that are horizontal on the top of the 2”x 3” tube, not the side vertical ones. Torque the two bolts that hold the arm to the frame to 135-149Nm (100-110 lbft). ...
  • Page 96: Front Coil-Over Shock Assembly

    Slightly loosen the three pivot bolts using a ⅝” and ” wrench. Loosen the jam nuts on both ends of each adjusting tubes using a 1⅛” wrench. Turn the adjusting tubes to lengthen or shorten the arm. After you have adjusted the arm to the desired length, tighten down the jam nuts against the adjusting tubes, and then tighten each of the three pivot bolts.
  • Page 97 Unpack the front shocks, coil-over’s and hardware. Double check the jam nut under the rod end and bump stop to make sure that it is tight. Screw the spring seat down on the sleeve so it is closer to the unthreaded end. Slide the coil sleeve over the body of the damper beginning at the end which has the rubber bump stop.
  • Page 98 The coil-over hats have a snap ring which holds it in place. Remove this snap ring to assemble the coil over shock. Slide the rubber bumper about two inches down on the shaft. Put the spring and hat on the shock and rotate the spring seat back up the sleeve so that the spring pushes the hat tight against the end of the shock.
  • Page 99 Install the snap ring on the spring hat so that it holds onto the shock end. Make sure that the slot in the snap ring and the slot in the spring hat are not aligned. Pass the shock assembly (with the body of the shock up) through the upper control arm and attach them to the lower control arm using the 0.43”...
  • Page 100: Spindles

    Fasten the shock to the top mount with the fasteners and 0.675” spacers provided and torque both upper and lower mounts to 40 ft-lbs. Spindles  ” socket, Torque wrench, Needle Nose Pliers, Rubber Mallet  IFS components, Mustang Spindles. Make sure the grease boot is in place on the lower balljoint then mount the spindle to the lower control arm.
  • Page 101 Using the 87-93 spindles, use the hole closest to the ball joint and the third hole down. Using a 94-04 Spindles, attach the bracket using the bottom and third hole up so that the ball joint is further away from the spindle.
  • Page 102: Front Suspension Torque Specs Chart

     The upper ball joint boot will look crushed and out of shape when the car is in the air, this is OK. The boot will seat when the car is on the ground. Front Suspension Torque Specs Chart Item Lbft Front lower control arm to frame 135-162...
  • Page 103: 94-04 Front Brakes

    94-04 Front Brakes Clean the rotor with brake cleaner and push it onto the hub. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 104 Install the caliper on the spindle; make sure that the fluid bleeder is at the top of the caliper. Torque the caliper mounting bolts to 130Nm (95 ft-lb). 508-291-3443...
  • Page 105: Solid Axle Rear Suspension

    Solid Axle Rear Suspension  Skip to the Independent Rear suspension if not installing a Solid axle. Solid Axle Preparation  ¾” sockets, ¾” wrench, ½” drill bit, drill, floor jack, jack stands, Torque Wrench  8.8” Rear axle assembly, Solid axle adapters/hardware Box, Mustang lower control arms. ...
  • Page 106 If not already done, fill the axle with gear oil. See Appendix for specifications and capacities. If using a used rear axle, remove the lower shock mounts and the anti vibration weight under the pinion. 87-98 Axle – Drill the lower control arm holes out with a ½” drill bit. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 107 99-04 Axle - Drill the lower control arm holes out with a ” drill bit. Position the Traction Lok brackets on the rear end with the bolts provided (the two short bolts go on the sides). Axle Bracket Driver's Side 508-291-3443...
  • Page 108 Axle Bracket Passenger Side Temporarily put the lower shock bolt through the traction lock bracket and stock shock hole on the axle. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 109 Tighten the two short bolts. Torque to Ford Specs 75-95 Nm (55-70 lbft). Attach the lower control arms to the brackets on the axle using the bolt provided. Torque to 101-111Nm (75-82 lb-ft)  The lower bolt holes provide more traction than the upper holes. ...
  • Page 110: Spring Perch Mounts

    Spring Perch mounts  ½” drill bit, drill, ¾” wrench, ¾” socket, ratchet  Rear spring perches, Mustang springs and rubber isolator mounts Hold the spring perches up to the frame so the vertical perch mount is in between the 2”x 3” tube and the vertical frame mount.
  • Page 111: Optional 3 Link Rear Suspension

     Skip the 3 Link section and continue on with the rear axle section. Optional 3 Link Rear Suspension  ”, ⅜”, ½” drill bits, ⅝”, ¾”, ”, 1” wrenches, ⅜”, ⅝”, ¾”, ” sockets, ” Hex key, Ratchet, Torque Wrench, Drill, Ruler/Tape measure, Pliers, Flat head Screwdriver, Tin Snips/scissors/razor, Marker.
  • Page 112 Test fit the two halves of the upper arm mount together. If it is hard to put all of the bolts in the mount holes, put in as many as you can then use a ½” drill bit through the remaining bolt holes. Attach the upper link bracket onto the axle using the fine hardware (FFR# 12217 &...
  • Page 113 The front attachment of the upper link axle mount attaches to the hole on the flange section of the pumpkin. This hole has some variance and may need to be drilled out from the bottom side using the mount as a guide. Attach the front of the upper link axle mount to the front axle flange.
  • Page 114 Upper Link Install a jam nut on each of the rod ends, remembering that two of them are left hand thread. Insert the rod ends into the swedged tubes (one is right hand thread and one is left hand thread). The longer tube is the Panhard bar and the shorter one is the upper link.
  • Page 115: Rear Axle Installation

    Rear Axle Installation  Have someone help with this step, the rear axle is very heavy and mistakes can result in serious injury. Use a floor jack to position the rear axle assembly under the frame.  Make sure that the rear jack stands are positioned under the 4” round tube as far back as possible to prevent the frame from tipping up once the axle is mounted ...
  • Page 116 With one person holding a side of the axle, raise the axle so that the lower control arms can be bolted onto the frame. Attach the lower control arms to the frame mounts. Jack the rear axle up. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 117: Optional 3-Link Panhard Bar Frame Mount

    If using a 4 link, attach the upper control arms to the frame. If using a 3 Link, attach the upper link to the frame. Optional 3-link Panhard Bar Frame mount  The Panhard bar frame mount is mounted to the chassis during shipping 508-291-3443...
  • Page 118 With the axle jacked up, attach the Panhard Bar frame mount to the inside of the quad shock brackets, the forward leg will attach to the back of the angled 2”x 3” tube. Do not tighten the quad shock bracket bolts yet.
  • Page 119 For the front mount, use a ½” drill bit and drill through the sleeve on the mount. Make sure before drilling that the hole is away from the side of the 2”x 3” tube so that a nut can be attached on the back of the bolt from the bottom of the tube.
  • Page 120: Panhard Bar

    Panhard Bar The Panhard bar mounts to the car using the ⅝”x 3” bolts and spacers. Install the Panhard bar to the passenger side traction lock bracket. Three spacers are used in the front (2) 0.375" (FFR# 14064) and (1) 0.25"...
  • Page 121: Link Rear Suspension Torque Specs Chart

    Attach the Panhard bar to the frame mount using the spacers provided. There should never be less than ¾” of threads screwed into either the Panhard bar or the upper arm. To set the pinion angle, make sure that your ride height is where you want it, and then adjust the upper arm until the desired angle is reached.
  • Page 122: Optional Rear Coil-Over Shock Assembly

    Optional Rear Coil-Over Shock Assembly  Snap ring pliers, ¾” wrench, ¾” socket, ratchet, ruler, marker, hack saw.  Roadster/Coupe rear shock kit  The rear shocks are pre-valved at the factory in compression and rebound for good street use. The shocks can be adjusted in rebound as per Koni’s instructions if so desired.
  • Page 123 The coil-over hats have a snap ring which holds it in place. Remove this snap ring to assemble the coil over shock. Slide the rubber bumper about two inches down on the shaft. Put the spring on the shock, then install the spring hat on the shaft end of the shock and push the rubber bumper up against it.
  • Page 124 Install the snap ring on the spring hat so that it holds onto the shock end. Make sure that the slot in the snap ring and the slot in the spring hat are not aligned. Use zip ties to hold the spring to the spring hat. Assembled solid axle Koni coil-over shock.
  • Page 125 Attach the body end of the shock to the upper shock mount using the two equal length (1.09”) spacers. Jack the rear axle up so the rod end of the shocks can be mounted on the axle through the shock mount hole.
  • Page 126 Driver Side Install the kit ½”x 4” bolts are provided for each lower shock mount. From the rear, the bolt goes through the bracket, ⅛” shim, shock, then the long spacer (1.09”) followed by the bracket and axle. Use a ¾” socket and Torque wrench to tighten both upper and lower mounts to 40 ft-lbs. Check for shock clearance on brake lines, emergency brake cables, brake calipers, frame and axle parts.
  • Page 127 Run zip ties through the holes in the spring hat and around the spring to prevent the spring from becoming unseated. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 128: Rear Shocks

    Rear shocks  Torque wrench, ratchet, ¾” socket, 15mm wrench  Mustang vertical shocks, quad shocks, quad shock brackets, Quad shock fasteners assembly, rear spring perches, rear traction Lok brackets/fasteners. Attach the rear vertical shocks at the top through the holes in the plates located in the trunk area using the Mustang rubber bushings and fasteners.
  • Page 129 Driver Side Install the kit ½”x 4” bolts are provided for each lower shock mount. From the rear, the bolt goes through the bracket, ⅛” shim, shock, then the long spacer (1.09”) followed by the bracket and axle. Use a ¾” socket and Torque wrench to tighten both upper and lower mounts to 40 ft-lbs. Check for shock clearance on brake lines, emergency brake cables, brake calipers, frame and axle parts.
  • Page 130: Link Rear Suspension Torque Specs Chart

    Tighten the bolts on the quad shock brackets. 4 link Rear Suspension Torque Specs Chart Item Lbft Upper control arm to axle 101-111 75-82 Upper control arm to frame 101-111 75-82 Lower control arm to axle 101-111 75-82 Lower control arm to frame 101-111 75-82 Upper Mustang shock to frame...
  • Page 131: Irs Center Section

    Unpack the rear suspension box and the IRS completion parts. IRS Center Section Mount the rear center section to the chassis. It installs from the bottom with the driveshaft flange pointing straight up and the axle holes lined up front to back with the chassis. Use one rear bolt through the rear cover to hold it in place.
  • Page 132 Raise the front of the center section and insert a bushing under each of the front mounting bosses. Slip one of the large washers under the bushing before setting it back down. Slide the bushing sleeves into the bushings from the top. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 133: Lower Control Arms

    Through bolt the two front bushings and the remaining rear mount with the mounting hardware and tighten. Lower Control Arms Screw the rod ends with jam nuts into the lower control arm. Screw the forward joint in all the way then back out 4 turns.
  • Page 134: Irs Rear Coil-Over Shock Assembly

    Mount the lower arms to the chassis with the shock mount hanging down below the arm. The rear bolt can be slip in place with no shims for now. Shim the front bolts using 3 shims on the front side of the rod end on both the left and right arms.
  • Page 135 Unpack the rear coil-over’s and hardware. Double check the jam nut under the rod end and bump stop to make sure that it is tight. Screw the spring seat down on the sleeve so it is closer to the unthreaded end. The center high part of the set should be pointed away from the unthreaded end.
  • Page 136 The coil-over hats have a snap ring which holds it in place. Remove this snap ring to assemble the coil over shock. Slide the rubber bumper about two inches down on the shaft. Put the spring on the shock, then install the spring hat on the shaft end of the shock and push the rubber bumper up against it.
  • Page 137 Install the snap ring on the spring hat so that it holds onto the shock end. Make sure that the slot in the snap ring and the slot in the spring hat are not aligned. Assembled solid axle Koni coil-over shock. Use zip ties to hold the spring to the spring hat.
  • Page 138 Mount the coil-over to the chassis mount using the two of the smaller length spacers on either side. The body of the shock goes toward the top. Mount the lower control arm to the coil-over with the remaining large and small spacers. The large spacer goes toward the rear.
  • Page 139: Cv Axles

    CV Axles Push the inner CV joints into the center section and let them rest on the lower arm. Spindles Slide the splined end of the outer CV joint into the hub and mount the spindle to the lower arm. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 140: Upper Control Arms

    Upper Control arms Screw in the rod end and jam nut into the upper arm and attach it to the chassis using a short equal length spacer on either side of the rod end. Attach the upper arm to the spindle and tighten all of the spindle mounting hardware. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 141: Quad Shock Installation

    Quad shock Installation Attach the body end of the Quad shock to the upper arm of the IRS with the supplied metric bolt. Attach the shaft end of the Quad shock to the rear quad shock bracket hole on the frame using the washer on the outside of the quad shock as shown in the picture.
  • Page 142 Remove the rear wheels. Use a couple of lug nuts on the wheel studs to ensure that the rotor is seated correctly. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 143 Place a straight edge on the rotor wheel mounting surface on each side of the suspension and measure across the car to find the suspension width.  With these axles, it is recommended that the rear suspension should measure 59.00” for the standard width or 54.00”...
  • Page 144: Torque Specs

    Adjust the rod ends the same number for turns for the front and rear rod ends on the lower control arm and upper control arm as required so that  If the number of turns done is the same for all control arms on one side of the suspension, an alignment is not needed after the installation.
  • Page 145  Bolts used on the caliper that do not use a locknut should have Loctite or other thread locker applied before installing. Insert a hex head bolt through the Caliper Mount Bracket hole so that the threads will point out. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 146 From the outside in, insert two hex head bolts through the Spindle caliper mount holes then through the caliper mount bracket. Torque the bolts to 87-101Nm (64-75 lbft). Place the caliper mount spacers on the bolts facing out. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 147 Place the brake rotor on the spindle Load the caliper with the brake pads Put a dot of Locktite on the threads of the two bolts with the spacers on. Attach the caliper to the caliper mount bracket. Hand tighten both bolts starting with the top on first. Keep the head of the bolt near the caliper adapter bracket in order to tighten it.
  • Page 148: Firewall & Driver Front Footbox Aluminum

    Tighten the top mount bolt with a ¾” wrench. Firewall & Driver Front Footbox Aluminum  Drill, ” drill bit, rivet tool, caulk gun, silicone  Firewall and Driver Footbox Front aluminum, Secondary body fasteners.  If you are installing a heater/defroster it is much easier to cut the firewall before installing. Refer to those instructions for the template.
  • Page 149 Rivet the firewall in position on the chassis. Mark, drill, and rivet in place the driver’s side footbox front panel, leave the lower section that attaches to the ¾” tube un-siliconed and un-riveted for the inside wall to slip underneath later. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 150: Pedal Box

    Pedal Box  ⅜”, ” sockets, ”, ” hex key, drill, ” wrench, ⅛”, ¼”, ” drill bits, silicone, rivet tool, marker.  Mustang pedal box, pedal box hardware, cockpit aluminum. 87-93 Pedal Box 508-291-3443...
  • Page 151 Position the Mustang pedal box on the two angled ¾” tubes over the driver’s feet, and attach using two short ⅜” bolts and two washers to the front wall at the front of the foot box. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 152 There are four holes on the Mustang pedal assembly on top of the ¾” tubing. Mark these holes on the tubes. The right hole for the master cylinder must also be marked on the pedal box. Use the laser cut hole in the foot box steel as a guide to mark the Mustang pedal box.
  • Page 153 Drill ¼” holes completely through the ¾” tubing for the pedal box. Use a ” drill bit to drill the bolt hole in the pedal box for the master cylinder bolt. Trim the corner off the pedal box using a Hacksaw. The front foot box aluminum panel can now be siliconed and riveted in place with the ⅛”...
  • Page 154: 94-04 Pedal Box

    Reinstall the pedal box assembly in the driver’s footbox; use the ¼”x 1.50” screws from the pedal box fastener assembly with a fender washer next to the head. Leave all the hardware hand tight. 94-04 Pedal Box Position the Mustang pedal box over the two angled ¾” tubes over the driver’s feet, the clutch pedal goes to the left of the tubes and the brake pedal goes between the tubes.
  • Page 155: Accelerator Cable

    Install the pedal box with the two ⅜” bolts and washers at the top as before. They go through existing holes in the front of the foot box. Accelerator Cable  ” hex key, ⅜”, ”, ½” wrenches, wire cutters. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 156: 87-93 Fuel Injected And Carbureted Applications

     Pedal box hardware, Accelerator cable components.  The cable design is set up for a 96-04 4.6L Mustang engine with an OEM pedal but using the supplied ball studs and retainers it can be adapted for all applications. 87-93 Fuel Injected and Carbureted Applications Using a ruler and marker measure and mark 2⅝”...
  • Page 157: 94-04 Fuel Injected Applications

    Screw on and tighten the ” locknut on the cable sheath inside the foot box using two ½” wrenches.  The engine end will get installed later. 94-04 Fuel Injected Applications Loosen the nut on the engine end of the accelerator cable with the cylinder slug on the end. Put the accelerator cable in the stock accelerator bracket slot on the engine intake.
  • Page 158 Accelerator cable mounted on ‘98 4 valve intake. Accelerator cable mounted on ’96 2 valve intake. Run the cable from the mount plate, tightly against the intake and over to the driver’s foot box front panel. Insert the pedal end of the cable into the foot box. Screw on and tighten the ”...
  • Page 159: Accelerator Pedal

    Cut the accelerator pedal capture in the corner using a pair of wire cutters. Slip the accelerator cable through the cut so that the ball will sit in the recess. Push the capture into the end of the throttle pedal. Check the idle screw underneath the throttle body to see if the throttle arm is hitting it.
  • Page 160 Loosely mount the flange bearing to the footbox front with the set screw toward the inside of the footbox. Both sides of the flange mount to the front side of the footbox plate. Loosely mount the top pillow block to the chassis with the set screw toward the rear of the car. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 161: Steering Rack

    Slide the steering shaft into the footbox from the engine bay through the lower bearing.  87-93 Power steering racks have a different spline than a manual steering rack and the 94-04 Power rack uses a “Pyramid” shaped end. All of these lower adapters are available from FFR. Steering Rack ...
  • Page 162 87-93 steering rack and fasteners (hydraulic lines removed). If not already in, insert the stock rubber bushings and kit spacer sleeves into the rack. Pull back the rubber boot on the inner tie rod and remove the inner tie rod from the steering rack. Line up the steering shaft and adapter and push the rack onto the steering shaft.
  • Page 163 Bolt the rack into the frame. It is easier to do the driver side first then swing the passenger side down into the mount. Use thread locker on all of the steering shaft screws that do not have jam nuts and the adapter screws. ...
  • Page 164  If using the power rack and you have not already done this in the donor prep stage, cut 1.75” off the end of the inner tie rod. Put a dot of thread lock on the threads of the steering rack and attach the steering rack extension to the steering rack using a 1.50”...
  • Page 165 94-04 - Put a dot of thread lock on the threads of the steering rack extension and attach the new inner tie rods to the steering rack. Push the boot back onto the steering rack body and attach with zip ties. The track of the FFR Roadster front end is a little narrower than the Mustang.
  • Page 166: Upper Steering Shaft

    Steering rack installed. Upper steering shaft  ”, ”, ” hex keys, ½” wrench, rubber mallet  Steering system hardware Unpack the upper steering shaft from the primary chassis components box. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 167 Slide the steering shaft through the upper bearing and start it in the lower shaft. Turn the steering shaft so the recessed bosses for the spring washers are facing up and set the washers in place. Then tap the upper shaft down until the upper clip just disappears into the lower shaft. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 168: Cockpit Aluminum

    Tighten the upper and lower bearings. Also tighten the set screw on the upper shaft. Cockpit Aluminum  Drill, ⅛” drill bit, rivet tool, Silicone, caulking gun, #8 self tapping screws, #8 hex nut driver, ruler, marker, Acetone or carburetor cleaner, rags. ...
  • Page 169: Passenger Footbox

    Passenger Footbox Locate the passenger footbox top and drill and mark the holes in the top flat surface only. Silicone this panel where it meets the chassis and rivet along the bottom of the 2” square frame crossbar only. Use one of the original screws to temporarily hold it to the other small chassis tube. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 170 Drill the tunnel front A-shaped piece where it meets the chassis and silicone and rivet it in place. Mark and drill the two vertical edges of the passenger footbox inside wall. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 171 Silicone and rivet the panel to the front tunnel “A” and the footbox top. Mark the holes in the passenger footbox front panel upper and outer edges but do not drill yet. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 172 Silicone the panel and install with the temporary screws then drill through both panels and rivet it in place. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 173 Mark and drill all three flanges on the passenger outer footbox top. Silicone the flange between the outer top and the outer wall and attach the two pieces together using the temporary screws. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 174: Passenger Floor

    Silicone the remaining flanges then install the outer wall/top on the footbox with rivets. Make sure the rear edge is flush to the chassis and not caught up on the door hinge before you start riveting. Passenger Floor Drill the passenger side floor where it was marked to attach to the chassis. Mark the two front flanges but do not drill yet.
  • Page 175 Silicone the chassis where the aluminum floor will touch. The main chassis rails are not riveted to but still need a bead of silicone run along the tops. The top edge of the tunnel is not riveted yet but gets silicone as well.
  • Page 176: Driver Floor

    Drill, silicone, and rivet the passenger outside wall in place. Leave the rivets out of the rear vertical flange for now. Driver Floor Drill silicone and install the driver’s footbox floor. The outer flange does not get drilled yet. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 177 Silicone, drill, and install the driver side floor. Install the drivers side outer wall same as the passenger. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 178 The inner wall for the driver side is different for a 4.6L engine than for any of the others. The 4.6 panel is pictured on the left. It has an extra bend about 10” in from the front. Drill, silicone and install the inner footbox wall. The front flange tucks in behind the front wall that was left unriveted.
  • Page 179: U-Joint Cover

    U-Joint Cover Mark the rear tunnel cover where it meets the chassis then silicone and rivet it in place. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 180: Transmission Tunnel Rear Corners

    Transmission Tunnel rear corners The inner rear corner pieces tuck behind the tunnel sides and sit on top of the floor. Mark the rivet spacing on the top edge and silicone and rivet the three flanges that make contact. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 181: Cockpit Rear Corners

    Cockpit rear corners The outer cockpit corners get marked on the bottom flange and where they meet the chassis. Drill silicone and rivet these in place. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 182: Cockpit Rear Wall

    Cockpit rear wall Mark and drill the rear cockpit wall. Silicone the chassis and aluminum flanges where it attaches and rivet it into place. Fuel System Fuel Tank  ” deep socket, ratchet, hammer, ” hex key, floor jack, friend. ...
  • Page 183 Unpack the fuel strap fasteners. Unpack the ¾” square plastic end caps from the secondary body fasteners. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 184 Push the four plastic end caps into the tubes hanging down in front and behind the gas tank. 87-93 - Hang the fuel tank straps from the rear mount of the chassis using two of the strap fasteners. The longer strap goes on the passenger side. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 185 94-04 - Hang the fuel tank straps from the rear mount of the chassis using two of the strap fasteners. The Strap with both flat ends goes on the passenger side (shown). Using a jack, raise the tank up into place on the chassis. Make sure the plastic cover is in position below the tank.
  • Page 186 Bolt the straps in with the strap fasteners and drop the jack. Tighten only the driver’s side strap as the passenger one will be removed for aluminum fitment later on. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 187: Fuel Filter

    Fuel Filter  Tube bender, ”drill bit, drill, rivet tool, marker, tape measure, flat head screwdriver, ” wrenches  Insulated clip hardware, Fuel line components, ¼”, ” fuel lines, Mustang Fuel filter and mount, Mustang tank to filter nylon hose, Mustang fuel vapor hose. ...
  • Page 188: Fuel Lines

    Fuel Lines Unpack the fuel lines and the fuel line assembly which is in the secondary chassis components box.  The larger ” line is the send fuel line to the engine. If you are running a return system then there is ¼”...
  • Page 189  The fuel line routing will depend on your style of fuel pump, whether it is in-line, in-tank, or mounted on the engine.  The most important things are: To route the lines so that they are protected by the chassis; not close to any heat source or moving parts;...
  • Page 190  Which side you run down may depend on where you are hooking up to your fuel rail, carburetor, or pressure regulator. We usually run the fuel lines on the passenger side of the car and the brake lines on the driver side of the car. Fasten the lines to the 2”x 2”...
  • Page 191: Brake System

    If you are going to use the mustang Fuel vapor line, run it along with the other fuel lines. Brake System  Tube bender, ”, ¼” drill bits, drill, rivet gun, marker, tape measure, razor knife, round file or sand paper, brake fluid, ”...
  • Page 192: Manual Brake Master Cylinder And Pushrod

    Manual Brake Master Cylinder and pushrod Use the ⅜”x 2” bolts provided to mount the master cylinder and spacers to the footbox front wall. The number of spacers used dictates the height of the brake pedal. Start with one spacer unless you are 6’ or taller then use more.
  • Page 193 Tighten all of the mounting bolts for the pedal box and master cylinder. Install the push rod from the power booster into the master cylinder and insert the white plastic bushing in the ring end. Hold the rod between the two ears of the brake light switch and slide it over the brake pedal post. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 194: 96-04 Brake Hydro-Booster And Master Cylinder

    Put the clip through the hole in the pedal so that the push rod will not come off. Tighten all the remaining hardware mounting the pedal box to the chassis.  If you plan to race frequently, use some small springs and attach them to the brake pedal and pedal box to prevent the pedal from moving during severe acceleration.
  • Page 195: Front Flexible Brake Lines

    Put the clip through the hole in the pedal so that the push rod will not come off. Front flexible brake lines Unpack the hardware from the brake line components. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 196 Lay out the various lengths of brake line so you can see what you have to work with. Like the fuel lines, there are many ways to run these lines but you must be very careful to keep them protected from moving parts, heat, or being to close to the bottom of the car.
  • Page 197: Hard Brake Lines

    Push the brake line adapters through the brackets from the outside in and install the clips that hold them in place. If removed, attach the front brake line to the caliper making sure there is a crush-washer on either side of the fitting.
  • Page 198 From the distribution block, run one of the longer 60” brake lines over to the passenger side brake hose mount. The line will bend very easy but be careful not to kink it. When you are happy with the routing use the small insulated line clips and ”...
  • Page 199 Use a union to attach a second 60” brake line. Run the brake line up the back of the 2”x 3” tube.  At this point your routing will depend on your rear brakes. 87-95 Mustang solid axles have a single flex line that runs to the middle of the axle then out to the calipers.
  • Page 200 Using the FFR rear brakes, we attached the flexible brake line mount to the driver side diagonal ¾” tube with the brake line clip. Attach the “T” adapter to the flexible brake line and route the hard brake line coming from the front to the “T”.
  • Page 201 Run a 60” brake line from the “T” up the ¾” tube to the front fuel tank mount tubes and over to the passenger side ¾” tube. An alternative to running it this way would be to run it across the backside of the 2”x 3”...
  • Page 202: Banjo Bolt Torque Specs

    Attach the hard brake line to the flexible brake line.  Make sure that your flex lines will not interfere with anything in the suspension, wheels during travel or turning full lock to lock. Tighten the banjo bolts on the calipers Banjo bolt torque specs 87-95 Front Brake hose to caliper Banjo bolt –...
  • Page 203: Rear Harness

    manuals for the model year you are using are invaluable. They cost between $30-$55 ea. but are well worth the money.  If you did not take the harness out of the car yourself, when connecting the plugs together, check the wire colors going into and out of the plugs to make sure that they line up and are the same color.
  • Page 204 Use the inertia cut-off switch as a template and drill two holes in the trunk aluminum on the far corner of the driver’s side. Mount the inertia fuel cut-off switch on the inside. Run (2) wires (using the blue wire extensions in the misc. electrical components) from the left rear, side marker light, up through the roll bar rear leg hole to be used for the license plate light.
  • Page 205: Transmission Harness

    Transmission Harness Push the harness plugs through the hole in the driver's side floor aluminum. Run the harness forward into the corner to the ¾” tube at the foot box front. Then go up and along the angled ¾” tube to its connector. Make sure that it does not get in the way of the accelerator pedal. Use the drilled holes and the zip tie trick to keep the harness in the corner along the floor.
  • Page 206: 87-93 Headlight Harness

    Headlight Harness 87-93 Headlight harness. 87-95 - The headlight harness is started at the alternator and runs forward to the passenger headlight area, then goes under the fan shroud to the driver’s side headlight area and then rearward to the coil and starter relay area.
  • Page 207 96-04 - Mount the engine bay fuse box using the stock mount in the front driver side corner of the engine bay to the “X” leaving room for the Hood Pin or Hood Hinge mount and the Power steering reservoir. The Mustang is wider than the FFR Roadster in front and there is extra wiring between the headlights.
  • Page 208: Dash Harness

    87-95 Dash Harness The dash harness begins at the coil area and goes rearward to the large hole in the front of the driver’s side foot box. The key to routing the dash harness is to start on the inside of the foot box and push the smaller items through the large hole from the inside.
  • Page 209: Starter Solenoid

    Run the harness over the pedal box and through the large hole in the firewall. Dash harness going through laser cut hole. The dash harness can then be run on top of the 2”x 2” square tube over to the computer side. Run everything loosely so that final positioning can be done.
  • Page 210 Old Starter New Starter 508-291-3443...
  • Page 211: 96-04 Dash Harness

    When the wire harness is installed, mount the fuse panel (Use the diagram in Appendix A to determine the correct shape) to the 2”x 2” dash hoop support and between the two ¾” x ¾” frame tubes in the driver’s side footbox using the aluminum bracket provided and a few of the self-tapping screws. Leave the headlight and hazard switches hanging for now.
  • Page 212 Dash wiring showing computer mounted on the passenger side of the firewall. Either modify the dash harness as described in the donor parts modification section at the beginning of the manual or cut a hole in the top outer footbox panel for the rectangular plug so the conical rubber bushing does not need to be cut.
  • Page 213 Run the harness over the pedal box and steering shaft and through the large slot in the firewall. The connectors for the rest of the harness easily fit through this hole and the big rubber grommet on the harness press fits into the laser cut hole. Attach the rectangular plug to the other harness.
  • Page 214 When the wire harness is installed, mount the fuse panel (Use the diagram in Appendix A to determine the correct shape) to the 2”x 2” dash hoop support and between the two ¾” x ¾” frame tubes in the driver’s side footbox using the aluminum bracket provided and a few of the self-tapping screws. The headlight switch can either be mounted in the dash to the left or right of the steering wheel, next to the ignition or using the stock bracket, mount it to the 87-93 headlight switch mount bracket so that it sticks vertically down under the dash.
  • Page 215: 87-95 Engine Harness

    Attach the PATS module pigtail to the dash harness and zip-tie the ignition cylinder assembly to the dash harness. 87-95 Engine Harness 508-291-3443...
  • Page 216 Silicone and rivet the dash extension in position. The engine harness begins in the passenger foot box. The computer plug is pushed through the oval shaped hole on the Firewall extension from the engine bay side. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 217 Attach the computer to the underside of the top of the passenger foot box using the plastic bracket from the Mustang and the screws provided. Alternatively the computer can be mounted to the inside of the firewall if the optional heater/defroster is not being used. Use the drilled holes and cable tie trick to hold the extra harness to the top of the passenger foot box.
  • Page 218 Attach the computer connectors to the starter solenoid and the ground to the backside of the solenoid against the ¾” tubing. The ground looks like a female stereo jack (sort of). The other half of the connector is on the battery negative cable, so just cut the connector off and use the ring connector. 96-04 Harness The harness splits into two on top of the passenger foot box.
  • Page 219 Run the other larger bundle forward to the front of the frame. Connectors shown at the front of the footbox are not needed Using the fuel pump resistor as a template, hold it against the firewall and mark the firewall where the mount hole and tab hole.
  • Page 220: Gauge Pod Installation

    Attach the constant control relay to the top of the passenger footbox using ⅛” rivets. Gauge Pod Installation  Wire stripper, crimping tool, electrical tape, wire cutters, Phillips head screwdriver, hack saw, razor knife, marker, ”, ” drill bits, drill, small Torx screwdriver. ...
  • Page 221 Remove the Mustang gauges from the white gauge pod with a small Torx screwdriver. Cut the locating pins for the gauges off the white gauge pod with a hack saw so that the pod will lie flush against the firewall when mounted. Use an ”...
  • Page 222: Ignition And Turn Signal Stalk

    With a razor knife, cut the other end of the blue plastic on the female blue butt connectors that overhangs so that the metal part is flush with the end of the connector. This will give more contact area for the gauges to grab. Push the male bullet connectors on the wire extensions into the enlarged holes on the gauge pod so that they are tight.
  • Page 223: Trunk Aluminum

    Mount the turn signal stalk with the stalk pointed towards the seat as high as possible between the plate steel that also holds the windshield and the vertical ¾” tubing next to it. The switch spans the gap. Use two 1” screws and a ”...
  • Page 224 With the rear taillight harness tied up and secure, silicone and install the lower trunk floor. Re-install the gas tank strap and tighten. Silicone and install the trunk inner corner pieces. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 225 Silicone and rivet the fuel tank strap patch panel from the packaged aluminum assembly. Drill and silicone the upper trunk floor. Bend it in the middle to get it into position. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 226: Battery Mounting And Cable

    Work the corners of the panel down over the roll bar mounts and seat harness tabs a little at a time on each side. Once the panel lies flat, finish rivet it into place. The rivets along the front 2”x 3” tube should be close to the back as possible for drill and rivet gun access.
  • Page 227 Unpack the Battery mounting kit. Position the battery with mounting bracket in the trunk for mounting. It is centered side to side with just enough room for the mounting bracket between it and the front of the trunk. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 228 Drop the J-bolts in the mounting holes and mark where they hit the trunk floor. Drill the ¼” mounting holes in the floor. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 229 Hook the j-bolts through the floor and bolt the battery down. Hold the j-bolts with a vice grip and be careful not to over tighten and crack or distort the battery. Remove the powder coating from the small circle in the trunk closer to the ground terminal of your battery.
  • Page 230 Drill through the center of the circle and put a washer down in the cut out. Bolt the Mustang ground cable to the chassis, leave the battery terminal off for now while the rest of the system is being routed. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 231 Drill out the hole you didn’t use for the ground with a 1” hole saw. Install one of the grommets in the hole. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 232 Route the small end of the batter cable from through the floor from the top and hook to the battery terminal. Attach the battery positive terminal and leave enough slack to be able to remove the terminal easily. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 233: Drivetrain Preparation

    Cover the remaining positive cable that runs underneath the car with the provided conduit to protect it from the elements. Drivetrain Preparation Aftermarket TKO 500 and TKO 600 prep  Hack saw or Reciprocating saw, ¾” socket, ratchet  Transmission, Polyurethane engine/transmission mount kit Trim off the unused mounting boss on the bottom of the case.
  • Page 234: Transmission Mount

    Trim it flush or just below the pad for the transmission mount. 99-04 Transmission mount  Transmission mount Adapter (FFR# 13969). If using a 99-04 engine, the Transmission mount adapter bracket provided in the kit must be used when using the stock transmission mount. Drill the rivets out of the stock mount.
  • Page 235: 87-93 Alternate Drive Pulley

    Bolt the transmission side of the mount to the mount provided as shown in the pictures below. 99-04 Transmission mount Adapter Bracket. 87-93 Alternate Drive Pulley  ¾” socket, ¾” wrench.  Alternate drive pulley components (FFR# 11080)  If you are using under-drive pulleys or eliminating the smog pump do not drill the A/C bracket according to the diagram.
  • Page 236 Place a washer onto the bolt. Place the pulley wheel on the bolt. Place the aluminum sleeve on the bolt with the flange towards the pulley wheel, so that it slides inside the pulley. Install the bolt assembly on the A/C bracket (previously drilled in the disassembly section), using the lock nut provided.
  • Page 237: 87-95 Oil Filter Relocator

    Check the pulley wheel for alignment with the other pulleys so that premature belt wear does not occur. With one eye, carefully align the front side of the pulley with the front side of the other pulleys. If the new pulley is not lined up properly and is too far in, use the arbor shims included with the kit to go between the aluminum sleeve and the pulley wheel, effectively pushing the assembly outwards.
  • Page 238 Use Teflon tape on the threaded barbs and thread them into the oil filter relocator. Thread the short end of the threaded nipple into the relocator. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 239: 96-04 A/C Eliminator Kit

    Mark the hole locations for the oil filter relocator on the old AC bracket or on the front frame X member (preferred location). If you’re going to mount the relocate bracket on the X member. Drill the mounting holes for the relocator. ...
  • Page 240 Place the aluminum sleeve on the bolt with the flange towards the pulley wheel, so that it slides inside the pulley. Attach the pulley to the bracket to using the included ½” bolt. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 241 Attach the A/C eliminator bracket to the engine. Use double washers for the two front bolts that have the sleeves in the holes. Pull the tension pulley back using a Ratchet in the square hole and install the serpentine belt using the picture for reference if using power steering.
  • Page 242 If not using power steering, use the following picture for routing. 96-98 DOHC Belt routing without power steering. 99-03 DOHC Serpentine belt routed on engine using power steering. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 243: 96-04 Oil Pan

    96-04 Oil Pan  ” deep socket, ”, ½” wrenches.  4.6L Oil pan kit.  If you are installing aftermarket gauges, some of the gauge sending units will need to be changed. Do this now while the engine is empty and out of the car. See your gauge instructions for more information.
  • Page 244 Install the new pick-up provided. Tighten the inlet tube bolts to 71-106 lb-in (8-12Nm). Tighten the inlet screen bolt to 15-22lb-ft (20-30 Nm). New oil pick-up mounted to the engine. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 245: Engine/Transmission Installation

    Oil pick-up inlet bolted to block. Attach the new oil pan to the block using the included short bolts over the rear kick-out. Torque the oil pan bolts using Fords tightening sequence and 15 ft-lbs. (20 Nm) plus an additional 60 degrees. Engine/Transmission Installation ...
  • Page 246 pictures of these for the inspector. The engine VIN is located on the drivers’ side on the engine block just above the oil pan near the bellhousing (it is very small). The Transmission VIN number is on the drivers’ side in front of the Speedo sensor near the middle of the transmission (it is very small).
  • Page 247 Lower the engine and transmission into place. The more hands you have to help the better. Go very slowly and make sure the transmission tail-shaft is above the rear cross-member. Install the engine mount to chassis nuts and tighten down all the engine mount hardware. Make sure the alignment pins on the mounts are in the holes on the chassis pads.
  • Page 248: Transmission Mount

    Transmission Mount  ” hex key, ”, ¾” socket, ratchet, ¾” wrench, floor jack  Transmission mount/hardware  If using a 96-98 T-45, bolt the transmission mount to the top of the frame mounts and do not use any spacers under the mount. ...
  • Page 249: Driveshaft

    Install the bolts that hold the transmission to the mount and tighten all the hardware on the mount and a- frame. Driveshaft  14mm wrench, thread locker  Mustang driveshaft and fasteners If not already done, the driveshaft should be shortened to the length specified in the appendix for the engine/transmission combination being used.
  • Page 250 Slip the shortened driveshaft up into the rear of the transmission. The most room to do this is usually to hold the shaft just above the center section and come in from the driver’s side. The mustang driveshaft bolts should have thread locker on them already. If thread locker is not there, put a small bead on each bolt.
  • Page 251: 87-95 Oil Filter Relocator

    Fit the driveshaft snug against the yoke and install the bolts and tighten. You can put the transmission in gear to stop the driveshaft from turning while you tighten. 87-95 Oil Filter Relocator  Razor knife, flathead screwdriver  Oil filter relocating kit, oil, oil filter Hook the oil lines up to the Oil filter Relocator and the adapter on the engine.
  • Page 252: Headers And J-Pipes

    Headers and J-pipes  ”, ” wrenches, ” socket, ratchet, extension, ” hex key  Mustang Shorty headers, straight tubes  Catalytic convertors and full length headers are available if required or preferred. Mount the headers to the engine. Thread locker is recommended, particularly if you have aluminum heads.
  • Page 253 Mount the straight pipes to the Mustang headers. The shorter pipe will go on the passenger side. Leave the bolts hand tight in order to locate the side pipes properly.  Aftermarket headers may require “ovaling” the holes on the two-bolt flange. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 254: Fuel Lines To Engine

    Fuel Lines to engine  flat head screwdriver  Fuel line components Finish running your fuel system by hooking up either to your carburetor or fuel rail. Here we mounted a pressure regulator on the firewall and ran a single line over to the rail. 96-04 Connections ...
  • Page 255: 96-04 Hydro-Booster And Power Steering Lines

    Insert one end of the ”x 16” onto the inlet side of the fuel pulse dampener. Slide and attach the fuel injection clamp over the end of the pulse dampener end. Slide another fuel injection clamp onto the hose and push the inlet end onto the ”...
  • Page 256 Hydro-boost lines shown in stock location. Lines must be bent and re-routed to fit behind aluminum Tubes bent around inside of Master cylinder. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 257 Lines in bent and routed in final locations. Lines running from booster, along steering shaft to steering rack. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 258 Hose routing for 96-2000 power steering cooler. Power steering line for steering rack. Note stock line bent. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 259: Power Steering Oil Cooler (If Applicable)

    Power Steering Oil Cooler (If applicable)  Drill, ” drill bit, ⅜” wrench.  Power steering cooler and hoses. 1996-1999 Version Mount the power steering cooler to the ” plate on the front of the 4” main rails. Use the original mount on the passenger side and the hole drilled in the preparation section earlier on the other side.
  • Page 260: 2000-2004 Version

    Location of power steering cooler inlet/outlet if using tubular control arms. 2000-2004 Version  This cooler is the replacement for the older coolers. There are a couple of different locations that the cooler can be mounted: To the bottom of the radiator so it is visible through the oil cooler opening or, in the location above and in front of the radiator.
  • Page 261 Drill and temporarily mount the driver side mount. Measure the distance from the radiator and make a bracket to mount the passenger side mount such as the one shown. Note the 90 degree bent mount bracket. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 262: Clutch Cable

    Clutch Cable  Insulated clip hardware. Route the clutch cable down to the bellhousing. Using zip ties or insulated clips tie the cable safely away from the headers and the moving steering components. It can be fastened to the engine using the bracket on the cable to the front lower bolt that holds the starter cable just before it leaves the block or, to the lower engine bay ¾”...
  • Page 263: Speedometer Sending Unit

    Connect the clutch cable to the bellhousing and the clutch fork. Speedometer Sending Unit  11mm deep socket, ratchet.  Mustang speedometer sending unit. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 264: Accelerator Cable

    Put a little oil on the o-ring and install the sender in your transmission. Use the original bolt to hold the sending unit in place. Plug the wire harness connector into the sender. Accelerator Cable  ” hex key, ⅜”, ”...
  • Page 265: Fuel Injected Application

    Fuel Injected application Attach the engine end of the cable sheath to the cable mount on the intake using ⅜” and ” wrenches. Put a dab of silicone on the rear edge of the rubber wipe then push the rubber wipe back onto the threads.
  • Page 266 Accelerator cable mounted on ‘98 4 valve intake. Accelerator cable mounted on ’96 2 valve intake. 87-93 - Push the ball stud retainer onto the ball on the bottom of the throttle body. Push/pull the cable into the retainer so that the cable is tight. Tighten the set screw in the retainer using a ”...
  • Page 267 Check the idle screw underneath the throttle body to see if the throttle arm is hitting it. If it is not, either loosen the ball stud retainer set screw and readjust the cable or, bend the small tab behind the accelerator pedal until the idle screw hits the throttle arm.
  • Page 268: Carbureted Applications

    Carbureted applications If necessary, attach the supplied ball stud to the carburetor in the appropriate location. Refer to the carburetor instructions for placement. Attach the ball stud retainer to the ball stud. Pull the cable tight holding the cable against the ball stud retainer. Align the ball stud retainer with the cable as if the cable was going into the retainer.
  • Page 269: Intake Hose And Air Filter

    Attach the engine end of the cable sheath to the cable mount on the engine using ⅜” and ” wrenches. Put a dab of silicone on the rear edge of the rubber wipe then push the rubber wipe back onto the threads.
  • Page 270: Mass Air Meter

    Modified 2003 intake tube. Mass air meter  Drill, ” drill bit, ⅜” socket  Wire harness mounting hardware, Mustang mass air sensor  Mass Air Meters are used on 1989 and newer Mustangs. 89-93 Mounting Flatten the outer edge of the mounting bracket using a hammer or vise. Use the top OEM hole and mount to the front side of the vertical ¾”...
  • Page 271: Fuel Vapor Canister

    Attach the mass air mount to the backside of the vertical ¾” tube on the passenger side as shown in the picture below using two ” rivets. Attach the Mass air meter to the mount using the stock nuts. Attach the intake hose to the engine and the mass air meter. Bend the Mass Air mount so that the hose will fit on the meter.
  • Page 272: 87-95 Mounting

    87-95 Mounting Drill two ” holes through the canister bracket OEM holes. Mount with two #14 screws. Attach the vent hose from the gas tank to the canister and the hose leading to the engine. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 273: 96-04 Mounting

    96-04 Mounting If you are going to run a vapor line and a fuel evaporative canister (charcoal can), mount the can at the back of the car on the driver side using the stock bracket so that the stock plastic line will still reach the correct connection.
  • Page 274 Attach the ” steel strips to the electric fan using the Phillips head screws provided. Position the fan assembly in the mouth of the fan shroud so that the fan and shroud are flush, if necessary, bend the tabs on the mount strips outwards slightly to hold it in place. Mark the position of the mounting strip holes and drill guide holes into fan shroud with ⅛”...
  • Page 275: 94-04 Mounting

    Reposition the fan assembly and mount using the #8 Phillips head screws with countersunk washers.  Make sure that the fan blades do not hit the sides of the fan housing once the fan is attached to the shroud. If they do make contact with the housing, loosen the screws attaching the mount bars, and bend the tabs of the mount bars so that the fan housing is not pulled out of round when the fasteners are tightened.
  • Page 276: 96-04 Additional Steps

    Drill the holes to mount the radiator top flange to the two small mounting tubes on the chassis. Mount the radiator top to the flange with the hardware provided. The bottom stays zip tied for now. 96-04 additional steps Hold the upper radiator mount plate up to the frame, and line up the bend with the bend in the ¾” tube. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 277 Mark rivet locations every 3”- 4”. Drill and rivet the mount plate to the tube using ⅛” rivets. Mark the location of the radiator edge on the plate and mark rivet hole locations every 3”- 4” on the plate that will go through the top flange and mount plate. Drill and rivet the upper mount plate to the radiator using ⅛”...
  • Page 278 Position the stock overflow tank so that it is centered across the front radiator mount plate. DOHC overflow front overflow mounts positioned on the radiator mount. Mount the rear of the overflow tank to the front side of the 2”x 2” frame tube using the bracket included ”...
  • Page 279 Mount the front of the overflow tank to the radiator mount using #14x ½” screws provided.  96-04 - If you prefer to use rubber radiator hoses, use NAPA # 7575 for the top hose. Use the stock lower hose to the thermostat housing then use Gates #21383 to attach to the radiator going under the steering rack.
  • Page 280 508-291-3443...
  • Page 281: Stainless Radiator Hoses

    Stainless Radiator Hoses Unpack the stainless radiator hose kit and remove the hose connectors from the boxes. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 282 Use the smaller sections of tube inside the adapters to fit them to smaller fittings on the radiator and intake. Then fit the larger adapters over them. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 283 Upper radiator hose Start at the engine and using the stock Mustang radiator the radiator hose should be routed through the “F” panel to the radiator. If the FFR radiator is being used, the upper radiator hose should be routed above the “X”...
  • Page 284 Push some grommeting onto the passenger side aluminum “F” panel slot to prevent any chaffing of the tube. Pass the upper radiator tube through the passenger side “F” panel and route the tube to the radiator. Mark the tube where it needs to be cut so that the tube will just touch the attaching location. Remove the tube from the vehicle.
  • Page 285: 87-93 Fan Wiring

    Run the tube next to the 4” main rail and under the steering rack to the radiator. Route the lower tube with enough slack to be able to adjust the radiator for the nose aluminum. Make sure that the lower hose is not hanging down. If necessary, zip tie the hose to the frame. Mark the tube where it needs to be cut so that the tube will just touch the attaching location.
  • Page 286 Standard on/off switch  Using this set-up, the driver must watch the water temperature gauge and manually turn the fan on when the water temperature gets to 212°F. The fan should only be needed while going less than 35mph or in traffic. ...
  • Page 287 Locate a coolant access point in your engine block or cylinder head to install the thermostat switch and thread it in. Ground the black electric fan wire to the frame. Connect the other electric fan wire to the #87 tab on the fan relay. Attach the #85 ground tab to the thermostat switch.
  • Page 288: Aluminum Panels

    Aluminum panels Transmission Tunnel Cover  Drill, ” drill bit, Silicone, Caulking gun, Rivet gun  Roadster Secondary Body Fasteners Components, Packaged Aluminum, mounted aluminum Silicone and install the transmission tunnel top. Silicone and install the shifter hole cover. Make sure it does not interfere with the movement of the shift lever.
  • Page 289: Driver Footbox Side Aluminum

    Silicone and install the tunnel plug patch panel. Driver Footbox Side Aluminum  ⅛” drill bit, drill, rivet gun, caulking gun, silicone  Mounted aluminum, packaged aluminum, secondary body fasteners Silicone and install the drivers side footbox outer wall. The front flanges tuck in behind the footbox front panel.
  • Page 290: Emergency Brake

    Emergency Brake E-brake Handle  ” hex key  Mustang E-brake handle, brake line components.  The 99-04 Parking brake handle has different mounting locations and “T” cable length than the older 87-98 handles. Push the U-nuts from the brake line components onto the E-brake handle. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 291 On 99-04 handles, remove the small bracket and screw that prevents the ratcheting adjustment gear from turning. Bolt the handle to the mount bracket using the kit fasteners. The holes are slotted so the handle can get positioned properly to allow room for your hand around the handle. 2003 E-brake Handle mounted. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 292: E-Brake Cables

    E-brake Cables  Your E-brake cables should be from the same car as your rear brakes.  87-92 Mustang cables or the FFR cables mount to the bracket up near the 2”x 3” tube. 93-04 Mustang cables mount to the bracket near the handle. For 87-92 and FFR cables route them through the upper bracket in the transmission tunnel until the sheath end clicks in place.
  • Page 293 For 87-92 and FFR cables, route the inner cable down under the chassis and hook them to the T cable. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 294 Solid Axle Route the remaining cable back to the calipers and attach. Make sure your routing is out of the way of any moving parts and the cable has slack to move with the axle. Pull up on the handle a few times to make sure the self Tensioner works and there are no problems with the cable.
  • Page 295 Bend and route the cables over the center section so that they curves to the rear of the lower control arm and attach the cable to the arm using zip ties from the kit. Emergency brake cable in caliper bracket. Pull up on the handle a few times to make sure the self Tensioner works and there are no problems with the cable.
  • Page 296 Optional IRS 11.65” brakes Attach the emergency brake cable to the caliper by pulling on the back of the caliper slightly and pushing the cable into the mount. The cable will be very close to or touch the adapter bracket. If necessary, file a small angled recess in the adapter bracket.
  • Page 297: Engine Ground

    Bend and route the cables over the center section so that they curves to the rear of the lower control arm and attach the cable to the arm using zip ties from the kit. Engine Ground  Sand paper or grinder bit, ½” socket, ratchet, ”...
  • Page 298: Seats

    Bolt the ground strap to the hole and then run the other end to a boss on the block. In this case we used an engine mount bolt. Seats  ” drill bit, drill, ” hex key, ½” deep socket, marker ...
  • Page 299 Lift up the bottom of the cushion to reveal the seat frame. Using the rivet heads as a guide mark where the rails of the seat frame are above the seat mounting plates. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 300: Nameplate

    Drill the first hole for the seat mounting and install the bolt. Drill the remaining holes for mounting the seats and install the bolts. Nameplate  ” drill bit, rivet gun, drill 508-291-3443...
  • Page 301: Gauges And Dash

    Secondary body fasteners, certificate of origin envelope  Factory Five Racing has included a Certificate of Origin along with a Nameplate for your kit. The serial number from the Certificate of Origin matches the number engraved on the 2”x 2”...
  • Page 302 1987-1993 1994-1998 508-291-3443...
  • Page 303: Dash Preparation

    1999-2004 With 1994-1995 versions, cut the trip meter off from the odometer as shown before cutting. Retain the odometer to reattach to the speedometer later. With the gauges separated center them in their designated dash holes from the back side and scribe a mark from the front at each mounting hole.
  • Page 304 Depending on which gauges you are using you may need to open up the dash holes for the tachometer and speedometer. If you need the larger holes the take a tin snip and cut through from the smaller hole to the tracing for the larger one halfway between all the tabs. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 305 Take a pair of pliers and snap the tabs off to get the larger opening. Countersink the gauge mounting holes in the dash. To do this take one of the 1.5” long Phillips head screws included in the kit, and use a drill to screw the screws into all of the gauge mounting holes from the front side of the dash.
  • Page 306: Gauge Installation

    Gauge Installation  There are multiple gauge mounting holes for the different years, so there will be some unused holes in the dash, which will be covered by the padded dash. 87-93 gauges installed, note the screw holes used. 94-98 Gauges installed, note the screw holes used Center the gauges in the correct holes and scribe marks on the gauges with the ”...
  • Page 307 Countersink the spacers to match the countersunk holes for a good fit and so they lay flat against the dash. If you would like to install the three lights that are included in the kit, one possible layout is similar to the original Roadsters, positioned directly over the steering column in a straight line.
  • Page 308 Install the large gauges with the taller spacers and the smaller gauges with the shorter spacers that are included with the kit so that the faces of the gauges stand away from the back face of the aluminum dash panel. This distance has been pre-set at the factory so that the sweep hands of each gauge fit. The blue light will light when the high beams are on.
  • Page 309 The turn signal light uses a three prong flasher unless two lights are used, one for each direction. Using the one light in the kit, remove the two-prong flasher from above the passenger compartment. Break/cut the connector for it in half and connect the purple/pink wire to the prong marked “L”. Attach the other wire to the prong marked “X”...
  • Page 310 Clean the dash off with some brake cleaner or acetone and spray the front surface and the back surface of the dash pad with adhesive. (3M super 77 or super 90 work great). Stick the dash to the pad leaving about an inch border all around the top, the bottom will be bigger for the flange.
  • Page 311 Cut the dash pad in angle shaped cuts every 2” (even closer in the corners) up to about ¼” from the dash. Wrap the dash pad around to the back and glue it. Use some heavy books to hold the pad in place until the adhesive has a chance to dry.
  • Page 312 If you are having trouble getting the pad to stick on the bottom of the dash you can screw the corners down using some of the trim screws provided with the dash hardware. Using a razor knife, cut the gauge holes and switch holes out of the dash pad, cut the holes in from the aluminum about ”.
  • Page 313 Using the razor knife cut a “+” sign pattern into the middle of the steering shaft hole. Press fit the 4” and 2” bezels into the dash by pressing on the outer rim section only. For 1987-1993 gauges pull out the trip counter button. Install the switches in the dash.
  • Page 314 Use the wiring extension pins to connect the gauges to the white master panel (the dash pod). This was previously mounted on the firewall behind the dash. Connect the electric fan wires to the fan switch if being used. Connect the horn wires to the horn button. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 315 Line the dash up with the hoop on the chassis. The corners of the dash support tube are ” below the top edge of the dash. The tube will be lower as it goes to the middle. Make sure the gauges do not hit the ¾” tubing. Drill for the dash mounting screws (5 evenly spread) through the dash and chassis with a ”...
  • Page 316 Push the ends of the dash behind the top of the door hinge and screw through the hinge into the dash end. Unpack the dash support/headlight/hazard brackets from the packaged aluminum. Rivet the panels to the chassis and then use the trim screws to attach them to the bottom of the dash. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 317: Steering Wheel

    Install the Mustang headlight and hazard switches in the aluminum brackets. Installation of the dash with Mustang gauge conversion set. Steering Wheel  Phillips head screw driver, 10mm wrench, ” hex key 508-291-3443...
  • Page 318  Steering wheel/Hardware Unpack the steering wheel hardware. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 319 Bolt the steering wheel to the boss. The pattern is not symmetrical so it will only line up in one direction. Bolt the steering wheel assembly to the steering shaft. Use thread-locker on this bolt. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 320: Rollbar

    Rollbar  ½” wrench, ” hex key, ” drill bit, Drill  Driver side Rollbar Assembly Unpack the rollbar and mounting hardware. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 321 Slide the rear leg of the bar down into the chassis mount. Slide the main hoop into the chassis mounts and wiggle or tap with a soft mallet until it lines up with the rear leg. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 322 Slide the rear leg up over the mount on the hoop and make sure it comes all the way up flush. Clamp the rear leg up with a pair of vise grips. The front hoop will angle back about 6° or so. Drill a hole all the way through each of the lower mounts and rollbar main hoop.
  • Page 323 Insert one of the bolts after drilling each hole to ensure that the rollbar does not move. Make sure the rear leg is tight up against the main hoop and drill the upper hole. This bolt will be visible so keep this in mind when deciding the orientation. Install the bolt loosely to keep the leg in place.
  • Page 324: Rolling Chassis Check

    Drill the remaining mount and install and tighten all of the bolts. Rolling Chassis Check Front Suspension Now is a good time to double check all your hardware, make sure your wiring and hoses are away from extreme heat and moving parts, make sure the steering turns freely lock to lock, and make sure your brake flex lines have enough slack for the full range of wheel movement.
  • Page 325: Fluid Levels And Grease

    Fluid Levels and Grease  Grease gun, chassis grease, ratchet, rags  Transmission fluid, rear axle gear oil, engine oil, coolant, water 508-291-3443...
  • Page 326 Fill the rear differential with gear oil. Any 8.8 in. ford has a fill plug that is removed and filled until the oil just reaches that level. The IRS has it in the rear cover and the solid axle has it in the front. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 327 Transmission Fill the transmission with fluid and install the shifter assembly. Leave the shift handle and knob off for now. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 328 Engine Fill the engine with Oil and coolant. Both these fluids should be rechecked after you have started the engine for the first time. Make sure there is some coolant in the overflow to start out, about full is good. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 329: Irs Axle Nuts

    Suspension All of the suspension and steering components that have grease fitting need to be greased. With a grease gun squeeze grease into each fitting on all the control arms, including rear lowers on a slid axle, and tie rods. IRS Axle Nuts ...
  • Page 330: Wheels

    Have a friend sit in the car and step on the brakes. Torque the rear axle nuts to 175 ft-lbs. Wheels Install and torque your wheels. Make sure they rotate freely and do not interfere with the brake calipers, lines, or any suspension components. Power Steering System Bleeding Raise the front wheels off the ground if they are not already
  • Page 331: Rattle Patrol

    Turn the steering wheel all the way to the left. Fill the reservoir to the full cold level and leave the cap off. Turn the steering wheel lock to lock 20 times checking the fluid level every few times. Top off if necessary.
  • Page 332: Footbox Fitment

     Wiring – loose wires – close to heat sources or moving parts – loose grounds  Suspension – all hardware tight – no binding or clearance issues  Chassis – all hardware double checked – nothing loose or sharp ...
  • Page 333: Driver Footbox Aluminum

     Racing seats with less padding give more room, the more upright the angle of the seat the more room to straighten out your legs. Driver Footbox aluminum Rivet the remaining inner cockpit wall flange to the firewall. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 334 Silicone and install the footbox inside top panel. Leave the top flange un-riveted for now; use some clamps or tape to hold it in place. Silicone and install the outer footbox top section. Your rolling chassis is now complete! 508-291-3443...
  • Page 335: Body Section

    Chapter Body Section 508-291-3443...
  • Page 336: Frame Preparation

    The Body and panel mounting are a critical part of how your car will end up looking when it is finished. Whether you are having a body shop paint your car or doing it yourself, the best results will be from fully mounting the body, all the panels and getting them to fit properly and then removing the body for the paint process.
  • Page 337 The rectangular adhesive backed weatherstrip runs along the top of the chassis tubes on either side of the hood opening and the top of the curved trunk hoop. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 338: Mounting The Body

    The push-on weather strip needs to run across the top of the firewall and the trunk walls and rear floor. Mounting the Body Rear Quick Jacks  ⅝” wrench, ⅝” socket, ratchet  Quick jack bumper components  The main locating points for the body are the rear quick jack mounts; these will set the body in the correct position front to back as well as locating the rear half up and down and side to side.
  • Page 339 The long sleeves go between the body and chassis with washers on both ends of all sleeves. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 340 The nut and bolt use a ⅝” wrench and socket to attach the rear quick jack bolts to the frame and body. Even with the quick jacks removed, it is still a good idea to wrap the bolts with some rags and duct-tape to save yourself from painful cuts or bruises.
  • Page 341: Front Quick Jacks

    Front Quick Jacks  ⅝” wrench, ⅝” socket, ratchet  Quick jack bumper components The front quick jacks mount the same as the rears except for the angled spacers and rubber backed washers that line up with the nose. You can also mount the body and hardware leaving the quick jacks off for when you are working.
  • Page 342: Hood Fitment And Bumpers

    Hood Fitment and bumpers  Orbital sander, air saw, ” drill bit, drill, rivet gun  Hood, Secondary body fasteners The hood has been trimmed slightly oversized to allow the panel gaps to be sanded down to fit. Set the hood in place and make sure it will fit the opening in the body, if needed sand or file the edges to allow the panel to just fit with a very small gap all around.
  • Page 343 Put the small bumpers around the edge of the hood opening and try closing the hood. If it is too low try the large bumpers. Use ⅛” long rivets to attach the bumpers through the body and into the frame. Once you are happy with the alignment you can set the panel gap and radius the edges.
  • Page 344: Hood Pins

    Sand, grind or cut the panel back so the marker line can not be seen. Remount the panel and the resulting gap should be the same around the whole panel, about ”. Repeat this gap procedure later after mounting the doors and the trunk. Hood Pins ...
  • Page 345 Loosely attach the hood pin mount plates to the chassis using the carriage bolts. The bolts push in from the outside. Position the Hood pin plates on the frame. Attach the hood pin vertical posts hand tight to the mounting plate. One nut goes on each side of the plate.
  • Page 346: Optional Hood Hinge

    Drill ” holes in the front ¾” tube through the mounting plate holes. Rivet the plate to the front ¾” tube. Change the angle of the mounting plate so that the hood pin post is perpendicular to the body hood lip. Bend the front tab if necessary so that it sits flat on the radiator mount tube.
  • Page 347 508-291-3443...
  • Page 348 The hood hinge pivot mounts attach to the hood using rivets, the holes are predrilled in the hood liner but you may need to clean them out with a ” drill bit. This is the initial install so you only need a few rivets if you are going to remove the hinge brackets prior to body painting (recommended).
  • Page 349 Drivers side long arm with bushings pressed in Passenger side long arm with bushings pressed in Press the bronze bushings into the holes in the hinge arms as shown. The short hinge arms are both the same. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 350 Drivers side arm plate with arms attached Driver side Hinge Assembled. Attach the hinge arms to the arm support plate as shown using the ⅜” shoulder bolts, spacers, nylon lock nuts and washers. The spacer fits over the bronze bushing after it is pressed into the arm holes. The flange of the bronze bushings should contact the arm plate.
  • Page 351 Attach the hinges to the chassis using the carriage bolts, these push in from the outside for easier adjustment. Leave the bolts loose enough so that the hinge assembly can be positioned to match the hood. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 352 Set the hood in place and attach the two arms to the brackets from the underside of the body. Install the threaded ball studs in the hole on the long hinge arms with the ball pointed toward the outside of the car using a ”...
  • Page 353: Hood Handles

    Attach the piston body end to the ball on the hood. Hood Handles  ”, ”, ”, ⅝” drill bits, drill, measuring tape, Phillips head screwdriver, pliers, marker, ⅛ 2.5mm hex key, file.  Three lock set and fasteners 508-291-3443...
  • Page 354 Measure the center of the hood liner rib along the trailing edge of the hood and mark it. Measure out from the hood center 12” on each side and mark the middle of the hood liner rib for the hood handle location. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 355 Drill through the hood and the liner starting with smaller bits working up to a ⅝” hole. The larger bits sometimes work better by running the drill in reverse so they do not tear the fiberglass. Remove the hood handles from the three lock set and break off the bottom small tabs with a pair of pliers.
  • Page 356 Set the handles in the holes drilled in the hood so that they are lined up squarely with the edge and mark the screw holes on the hood. Drill the holes with a ” bit then screw the handles down using the screws from the set. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 357 Shut the hood and mark the body where the hood handles line up. Open the hood and drill two ” holes in the hood opening recess ¼” on either side of the centerline and ¼” back from the edge of the opening. These are for mounting the hood catch brackets. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 358 The latch brackets are in the handle assembly, center them on the line with the corner edge up against the inner radius of the hood opening and mark the two holes. Drill the two holes just marked with a ” bit and file the edged of the bracket round with a file or grinder for a nice finish.
  • Page 359 The four remaining screws are used to hold these brackets in place. They can either be countersunk into the body or used to hold down the hood bumpers to hide them completely. Attach the cam wedge to the underside of the hood handles and adjust for tightness using a 2.5mm hex key.
  • Page 360: Windshield

    Windshield  Phillips head screwdriver, marker, ½” drill bit, drill, hack saw, ¾” wrench, ratchet, ¾” socket, friend.  Windscreen box.  The strips along the sides of the windshield that the screws go into are brass. The brass threads strip easily so take your time and make sure that they thread correctly.
  • Page 361 With the help of a friend, slide the windshield down through the slots in the body until the bottom edge is resting on the body and mark the chassis mounting holes on the arms. If the arms are too long and prevent the windshield from sitting down then pull them back out and trim off the excess.
  • Page 362: Doors

    Slide the windshield into position and bolt in place using the windshield mounting hardware. The windshield should remain bolted down while you fit the doors. Doors  ” hex key, marker, ⅝” socket, ratchet, air saw, orbital sander, ” drill bit, drill, rivet gun ...
  • Page 363 If you have removed them, remount the door hinges on the chassis. The square nuts sit along side the tube so only one hex wrench is needed for adjustment. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 364 Position the door in the body to see where it may need to be trimmed to fit the opening. Mark the door and only remove enough material to get it to fit. Hold or tape the door in position and attach the hinge to the studs. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 365 Adjust the door with the hinge until the panel surfaces are lined up with the body. Start at the top of the door and match the curved surfaces. Once the top of the door is good, you can adjust the bottom of the body in and out to help fit the bottom edge of the door.
  • Page 366: Door Latch

    Door Latch  ½” wrench, ” drill bit, drill, Philips head screwdriver, marker, Lithium or silicone grease.  Door components Remove the door latch striker from the original mounting bracket and keep only the striker and the washers. The bracket and nut will not be used. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 367 Bolt the striker onto the chassis putting enough shims on the striker to bring the base of the striker head flush with the door latch pad when the door is closed. Latch the door latch onto the striker and close the door. Adjust the striker if needed to fit the latch to the door cut out.
  • Page 368 With the door lined up and the striker in place, mark and drill the ” holes for the door latch. Lubricate the moving parts of the latch using Lithium or silicone grease. This will make the latches easier to use and prevent any binding. Bolt everything together to double check fit and operation.
  • Page 369: Trunk

    Trunk  air saw, orbital sander, marker  trunk Trim the trunk lid edges enough so that it just fits into the opening. Trunk Hinge  ½” wrench, ” hex key  Trunk hinge components. Press the bushings into the hinge arms from either side. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 370 Use the carriage bolts and ” locknuts to bolt the mounting pads to the arms leaving them just snug so they can be moved without loosening the bolts. Hang the hinge arms on the chassis using the shoulder bolts. You do not need the nuts for just doing fitment.
  • Page 371 Screw the trunk to the mounting pads also leaving them loose enough that they will just move. Close the trunk and wiggle it into position then open and tighten the bolts. This may take a little adjustment to get the trunk to sit down right. You can also use some of the rubber bumpers from the hood opening as a temporary means of holding the surfaces level.
  • Page 372: Trunk Latch

    Trunk Latch  ⅜” socket, ratchet, flat head screwdriver, Philips head screwdriver  3 lock set and fasteners Find the trunk latch and components in the 3 lock set. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 373 Screw the trunk latch to the holder with the short #14 screws lining the small square hole with the hole for the handle. Bolt the handle to the trunk running the bolts through the trunk and the latch mount. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 374 The long bolt that holds the latch pin in place goes through the plastic cap then the body then the sleeve and into the chassis plate. Test fit to make sure the trunk is held snug. If it is loose you can bend the catch with channel lock pliers to snug it down.
  • Page 375: Body Cut-Outs

    Body Cut-outs Fuel filler  Drill, ⅛”, ” drill bit, 3½” hole saw or air saw or jig saw, masking tape, scissors.  Fuel filler template, Aston Lemans Cap components. Locate the template in the appendix and only cut out around the outside diameter of the circle. Tape the circle in the gas cap recess of the body.
  • Page 376: Tail Light

    Use a 3½” hole saw for the center opening, drill out the holes for the filler. If you do not have a hole saw this size, you can cut the center circle out of the template and use the remaining template to mark for a jig-saw instead.
  • Page 377 Use a ” bit to drill the two outer holes for the taillight studs then cut out the center using a 1¼” hole saw. There are marks on the body that locate these holes. If the marks do not show there is also a template in the back of the manual.
  • Page 378: Turn Signal

    Turn Signal  Drill, ” drill bit, 1¼” hole saw, marker.  Turn signal template, Amber front turn signal lights Remove the gasket from the turn signal box and use it to center and trace the mounting holes and large center hole for the turn signal.
  • Page 379: License Plate Light

    Drill the outer holes with a ” drill bit and the inner with a 1¼” hole saw. Test fit a light and adjust if needed. License plate light  Drill, ¼”, ⅜” drill bits, scissors, masking tape, marker 508-291-3443...
  • Page 380 This kit is only a collection of parts designed for use primarily as a race car. Applying the license plate bracket does not mean that this vehicle is street legal. Factory Five Racing does not build completed or partially completed street vehicles. If you choose to title, register and operate your kit on public roads, you are responsible for ensuring that the vehicle you build complies with all Federal, Sate and local laws regarding its use.
  • Page 381: Side Exhaust

    Test fit the light with a license plate and adjust the holes with the drill bit if needed. Side exhaust  Drill, 2½” hole saw, air saw or jig saw.  Side exhaust template 508-291-3443...
  • Page 382 The pattern for the standard exhaust cut out is pre traced on the body. Using a 2½” hole saw cut the upper two corners of the pattern out. Using a jig saw cut the remaining straight sections and radius on the lower rear corner. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 383: Headlights

    Headlights  Drill, ”, ¼”, ” drill bit, razor knife, masking tape, air saw or jig saw, level.  Headlight template, headlight components, Cut out the headlight templates from the back of the manual on the outermost diameter and tape them in the center of the fender with the line level with the ground.
  • Page 384 Cut the center of the template out and trace the inner circle with a marker. Drill the two smaller corner holes with a ¼” drill bit to mark their location. Follow this with a ” drill bit. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 385 Using a jig saw, cut the inner hole out of the body, use a larger drill bit to make a hole to start your cut. Test fit the light bucket and rubber gasket making sure that they sit flat and the bucket is centered on the fender.
  • Page 386: Side Louver

    Side louver  Drill, 1¼” hole saw, jig saw or air saw, measuring tape, marker  Side louver template Use the template and measurements in the picture below to locate the template on the body. Use a 1¼” hole saw to cut the corners on the traced opening for the side louver. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 387: Hood And Scoop

    Connect the flush surfaces of the holes with a jig saw. Hood and Scoop  Drill, ”, ⅜” drill bits, marker, ruler, tape measure, jig saw or air saw, rivet gun.  Hood scoop, hood, secondary body fasteners. Mark and drill around the edge of the scoop for rivets. They will be ”...
  • Page 388 On the underside of the hood on the liner, trace the opening for the cut out in the hood 1½” in from the side and rear edges and 4” back from the front edge of the scoop recess. Use a larger drill bit to start the blade for the saw then cut the opening in the hood using a jig saw. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 389 To locate the scoop, measure from the leading edged of the hood back 19” on either side of the opening and draw a straight line across the width of the hood. On the line just marked, measure in 8” from each of the outside edges of the hood and mark on the line. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 390 Center the scoop using the straight edge and two marks. Double check by measuring in from the rear edges of the hood to make sure that it is centered. Drill two of the rivet holes on opposite sides for the scoop and install a couple rivets to hold the panels together.
  • Page 391: Roll Bar

    Drill out the remaining rivet holes and then separate the two pieces for painting. Roll bar  Drill, 1¾” hole saw, air saw or jig saw, file  1.50” driver side Rollbar. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 392 The roll bar holes are marked on the body and need to be cut out using a 1¾” holes saw. The front two holes are cut centering the saw in the marked circle and drilling vertically to match the angle the bar comes through the body.
  • Page 393: Final Prep

    The rear of the hole is then finished using the whole saw vertically. Trim the remaining flash on the opening with a file or jig saw and test fit the bar. Final Prep  Sand paper 508-291-3443...
  • Page 394  All of the exterior body accessories, Windshield and side exhaust must be mounted to the car to obtain the correct body location in order to create the correct gaps and opening sizes on the car before it is painted. ...
  • Page 395: Body Painting

    Body Painting  Remove all trim, doors, windshield etc. before beginning body work  The primer gel coat sands easily, and is a forgiving material to work with.  The body comes out of the mold with a wax release compound and a thorough cleaning with a wax remover is the best way to begin this job.
  • Page 396: Final Assembly

    Chapter Final Assembly 508-291-3443...
  • Page 397: Radiator Aluminum

    Radiator Aluminum  Drill, ¼” Nut driver, ⅛”, ” drill bits, rivet tool, floor jack, marker, ruler, silicone, caulk gun.  Secondary body fasteners, engine bay aluminum.  Use care when handling aluminum, the edges are sharp and can cut you. The radiator and its plumbing were installed before the body was mounted.
  • Page 398 Pass the radiator floor piece through the nose. Position the radiator floor aluminum so that it goes under the body lip and goes across to the bottom of the radiator. Clamp the floor piece to the nose. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 399 Attach the radiator floor piece to the bottom of the radiator with a couple of self-tapping screws on the marks or use a couple of clamps. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 400 Drill, silicone and rivet the radiator floor aluminum to the bottom radiator lip. Silicone and rivet the aluminum to the nose lip using three ” rivets. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 401 Pass the radiator sidepieces through the nose and put them on their respective sides.  Trimming aluminum may be necessary if you use the press-on rubber bulb seal weather- stripping. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 402 Line up the edge of the radiator fins with the edge of the side aluminum and attach the piece to the ¾” tube using a self tapping screw. From the backside of the panel, mark the location of the ¾” tube. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 403  If using the press on bulb weatherstrip, make sure there is ⅜”-½” of gap between the edge of the panel and the body. Remove the side panel then measure, mark, drill rivet locations where the ¾” tube is located and press on the bulb weatherstrip.
  • Page 404 Reinsert the side panel then silicone and rivet the panel to the ¾” tube and the radiator floor aluminum. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 405: Carpet

    Repeat this procedure for the driver side panel. Carpet  Razor knife, silicone, caulking gun, spray glue, brake cleaner or acetone.  Interior trim/carpet  ® The adhesive used to hold the carpet down is the same as we used on the dash pad. 3M Super77™...
  • Page 406 Double check the aluminum edges and corners for any areas that look like they are not sealed. Run a small bead of silicone in these corners, seams and around the slots where the seat harness mounts poke through. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 407 Start with the large rear cockpit wall of carpet. Position it before gluing so you understand where it will go then, apply the adhesive and glue it into position. The cockpit rear corners go on next. Be very careful spraying the adhesive once some carpet is mounted.
  • Page 408 Test fit the rear and main tunnel covers. While you are fitting cut the handle opening for the e-brake and shifter. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 409 Glues down the tunnel top. The tunnel rear section is slightly oversized to make sure it can cover small variances in the way the other pieces lay down. Trim it for a perfect fit then glue it in place. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 410 Fit and glue the passenger outside footbox wall carpet section. The carpet tucks in behind the footbox protection tube. Taping off the tube helps prevent getting the adhesive on it. Fit and glue the driver’s side footbox outer carpet section. This piece also tucks behind the footbox tubing.
  • Page 411 Fit and glue the tunnel/firewall section of carpet. Fit and glue the lower floor sections. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 412: Seats Harness Lap Belt

    Fit and glue the under door sections. The floors are the last pieces to go in. They may also need a slight trim for the best fit. Glue them down and vacuum the carpet prior to the seats going in. Seats Harness lap belt ...
  • Page 413 Unpack the seat harnesses and hardware. Drill through the inner lap belt mount into the tunnel with a ½ in. bit. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 414: Emergency Brake Boot

    Bolt the lap harness in position with the inner most nut inside the transmission tunnel. Emergency Brake Boot  ” drill bit, drill, Phillips head screwdriver  Interior Trim/Carpet 508-291-3443...
  • Page 415 Unpack the e-brake boot and a few of trim screws. Fit the boot over the handle and check the handle actuation. When you are in a position where the boot clears the handle movement drill through the material into the tunnel and screw it into place. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 416: Seat Final Install

    Seat Final Install Drill back up through your seat mounting holes to put holes through the carpet and re-mount the seats. Seat Harness Shoulder Belts  Razor knife, ¾” wrench, ¾” socket, ½” drill bit, drill, ratchet  Seat Harness/Fasteners, Misc. electrical components 508-291-3443...
  • Page 417 Use some of the serrated grommeting from the electrical assembly to cover the edge where the harness passes through. Cut the carpet with a single slit to allow the harness to pass through. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 418 Remove the mounting tab and slider from the harness. Slide the harness through the rear wall from the front. The shoulder harnesses are side specific so make sure you have the sides correct. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 419: Shifter Handle And Boot

    Replace the slider and mounting tab and bolt the tab to the chassis. Adjust the harnesses to where they fit you comfortably. Shifter Handle and Boot  ½” wrench, ” drill bit, drill, Philips head screwdriver, marker, thread lock 508-291-3443...
  • Page 420  Shifter handle components Unpack the shift handle and bolt it to the transmission. These bolts have a tendency to rattle loose so use a little thread locker. Push the boot and trim rind down over the handle so it sits flush on the tunnel. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 421 Using a silver marker or white paint marker, mark your screw holes on the tunnel. Remove the boot and drill ” holes in the spots you marked. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 422 Re-install the boot and screw down to the tunnel with the countersunk screws. A small screwdriver can help to locate the holes. Screw the two piece knob onto the shift handle and tighten so the shift pattern is in the correct orientation.
  • Page 423: Headlights

    Headlights  Philips head screwdriver  Headlight components Unpack the headlight mounting assembly. 13420 13418 13419 13415 13416 Headlight fasteners. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 424 Screw the adjuster screws about halfway into the buckets. Push the grommet into the side of the bucket. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 425 Run the light plug harness through from the inside Line up the headlight with the bucket to get the proper orientation. The bottom of the bucket is the only screw boss that comes in from the side and the writing on the headlight should be right side up. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 426 Screw the mounting flange onto the light with the 3 small tabs and small screws. The tabs are bent to fit around the bosses on the light. Put the gasket on the bucket with the adjuster bosses poking through the 2 larger holes. Screw the bucket to the body using the screw that came in the mounting assembly.
  • Page 427 Plug the light into the connector and mount the bulb to the bucket. The slotted parts of the mounting flange go onto the adjusting screws between the screw head and flange. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 428: Turn Signals

    Push the spring clip onto the boss near the bottom of the bucket. Mount the trim ring hooking it over the bucket on the top and screwing it into the bottom using the countersunk screw. Turn Signals  ” deep socket, ratchet ...
  • Page 429: Tail Lights

    Mount the turn signals to the body being careful not to over tighten the locknuts. Tail lights  ” deep socket, ratchet  Red rear lights 508-291-3443...
  • Page 430: Gas Cap

    Mount the taillights, also being careful with the mounting hardware. Gas Cap  Phillips head screwdriver  Aston Lemans Cap 508-291-3443...
  • Page 431 Unpack the fuel cap and mounting hardware. Put the gasket on the bottom surface of the cap. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 432 Set the cap on the body and screw in using 5 of the countersunk screws. Leave the inside most forward hole open. The one remaining cap fastener is a longer screw and nut used for the ground strap, screw it in from the top then put the ground strap washer and nut on from underneath.
  • Page 433: Side Louvers

    Side Louvers  Silicone, caulking gun, duct tape  Side Louvers Unpack the side louvers. Holding the top and bottom flanges, bend the fins in so they are roughly at a 45° angle. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 434 Hold them up to the body to see how they fit. They are designed to allow air to exit the engine bay so the flanges point from the rear edge in. Apply silicone down the top and bottom flange on the side facing the body. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 435: Weatherstripping

    Line up the louvers and tape them in place to hold them until the silicone dries. Weatherstripping  Razor knife, tin snips  Secondary body fasteners 508-291-3443...
  • Page 436 If you haven’t already run the bulb seal up the sides and rear of the trunk and bolt the trunk hinges back in place and tighten. Cut out a section of the C channel where the hoop comes across to allow one piece to run the whole way.
  • Page 437 If you removed any of the other weatherstrip on the firewall or hood support tubes replace it now. When you are ready to mount the body, unpack the expanding foam and run a small section up the outside of each footbox just forward of the door hinge. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 438: Final Body Mounting

    Final Body Mounting Fit the body back on the chassis. Be very careful with the sides and slowly work it down into position. Pull the sides out around the chassis and make sure the body covers the rear cockpit wall and top of he dash without pulling the material off either.
  • Page 439: Hood Mounting

    Re-mount the nose with the front quick jacks. Hood mounting Rivet the scoop back in position on the hood. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 440: Rollbar Mounting

    Re-install the hood latch plates and replace the bumpers you used before on the body to line up the hood. Re-Install the hood and latches. Rollbar mounting  A popular option are the Roll bar grommets. If installing them, do it now. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 441: Door And Latch Mount

    Re-mount the roll bar through the body. Make sure that the rear leg is in the correct orientation so that your holes will line up. Door and Latch mount Reattach the doors and latches. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 442: Windshield Mounting

    Once you are happy with the door fit install the covers on the door latches. Windshield Mounting Position the windshield trim plates with gaskets on the body so that the notch faces the inside front corner. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 443: Fuel Filler Neck

    Re-mount the windshield. Fuel Filler Neck  Razor knife, ⅜” socket, ratchet, ” drill bit, drill  Aston Lemans Cap components 508-291-3443...
  • Page 444: Fuel Filler Neck

    Ground the fuel filler strap to the chassis using the screw that came in the cap hardware.  This wire prevents any static charge build-up and must be used. 87-98 Fuel Filler Neck Attach the 2” fuel filler hose to the bottom section of the Mustang filler neck. Stock fuel tank filler neck with extension.
  • Page 445 Optional Stainless Steel filler neck with extension. Install the hose between the filler neck and gas cap with the clamps that came in the cap hardware. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 446: 99-04 Filler Neck

    Screw the plastic gas cap into the Aston Lemans style cap. 99-04 Filler Neck  99-04 fuel filler tube assembly Push on and attach the 1” fuel filler hose to the lower part of the filler neck using the included hose clamps.
  • Page 447 Unpack the 2” fuel filler hose and cut a 5” long section out of one end. Use the short section of hose to connect the upper part of the stock filler neck to the Aston fuel cap 508-291-3443...
  • Page 448: Fuel Tank Access Covers

    Screw the plastic gas cap into the Aston Lemans style cap. Fuel tank access covers  ⅛” drill bit, drill, rivet gun, silicone, caulking gun  Secondary body fasteners, packaged aluminum 508-291-3443...
  • Page 449: Final Trunk Mounting

    Silicone and install the patch panels in the trunk that cover the fuel sender and pickup access holes. Final Trunk Mounting  Tin snips, ” hex key  Secondary body fasteners Push the side mount weatherstrip on the trunk opening starting at the bottom next to the latch pin hole and working all the way around just leaving a small gap for the head of the latch pin bolt.
  • Page 450: Interior Rearview Mirror

    Re-mount the license plate light and trunk handle. Re-mount the trunk to the hinges and re install the latch pin. Interior Rearview Mirror  Phillips head screwdriver, drill, ”, ” drill bits, marker, measuring tape  Rearview mirrors/fasteners Use a tape measure and marker to mark the center of the dash area about ¼” in from the body lip. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 451 Line up the rearview mirror with the center mark and mark the holes in the body. Sit in the seat and make sure you are comfortable with the position. Drill the body with a ” bit and screw the mirror in position. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 452: Side Mirror

    Side Mirror  Philips head screwdriver, drill, ”, ” drill bits, marker, ⅜” wrench.  Rearview mirrors/fasteners.  Only a driver side mirror is included with the kit. A passenger side one is available if desired. Unpack the side mirror assembly. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 453 Disassemble the mirror, removing the large base from the stand. The large base is replaced by the smaller insert and gasket. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 454 Temporarily bolt the mirror back together with the small insert. Sit in the seat to find a good location you can see it from and see clearly over the rear fender. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 455 Mark the location and use the gasket to locate and drill the mounting holes. Disassemble the mirror and bolt the mounting insert with mounting bolt and the gasket to the body. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 456 Slide the stand-off and upper gasket down the bolt and onto the mounting bracket. Bolt the main body of the mirror to the mounting stand-off. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 457: Light Wiring

    Screw the mirror into the body and adjust it before tightening. Light wiring  Wire strippers, wire crimpers, chassis harness instructions  Headlight components, amber front turn signal lights, rear lights, license plate light, electrical system completion components 508-291-3443...
  • Page 458: Check Straps

    Wire in the headlights to the chassis harness. On the headlight, there are three wires, black is ground, white is high beam and the red is low beam. Wire the turn signals up to the chassis harness. On the light, the red wire is the dim light and the green wire is the bright light and the brass ring is the ground.
  • Page 459 Unpack the door check-straps. Rivet the check-strap to the door hinge using a ” rivet. Open a door wide but not enough so that the door hits the body. The straps will stretch slightly over time so allow enough room for this by closing the door slightly from the maximum. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 460 While holding the door open, pull the check strap tight and mark the location of the mount holes on the inside face of the 2”x 2” tube. Drill ” holes at the marked locations and rivet the mount to the chassis. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 461: Under Door Aluminum

    Under door Aluminum  Drill, ” drill bit, rivet tool, silicone, caulking gun, spray glue, tin snips.  Packaged aluminum, interior trim/carpet, secondary body fasteners Unpack the under door aluminum panels. They are shaped to fit around the bottom of the door with flanges to mount to the chassis.
  • Page 462: Steering Wheel Center Section

    Test fit and then glue in the remaining carpet sections under the doors. Cut a section of the large C channel weatherstrip to fit from the bottom of the door hinge to the door latch and push it in place over the body, aluminum and carpet to finish the edges off. The barb side goes towards the inside of the car.
  • Page 463  Steering wheel/hardware, Factory Five Badge Unwrap the steering wheel center section and push it into the steering wheel and boss, a little WD40 on the o-ring helps if it is tight. Peel the backing off the badge and stick it in the center section making sure you are aligned with the top of the steering wheel.
  • Page 464: Side Exhaust

    With the steering wheel in the position that is most comfortable for you tighten the set screws on the collar of the upper steering bearing. Side Exhaust  ”, ” Hex key, ⅜”, ½”, ” socket, ratchet, ” wrench, drill, ”, ”...
  • Page 465 Unpack the hardware for mounting the side exhaust. Bolt the mounting bracket to the pipe on the forward side of the bracket. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 466 Bolt the pipe and gasket to the header or J-pipe flange with using the shorter ⅜” bolts and mechanical locknuts. Drill a ” hole in the 2”x 2” outrigger tube directly above the middle hole in the mounting bracket. You want this hole as high as you can get it while still being able to mount the rubber exhaust hanger. About ½”...
  • Page 467 Screw the rubber hanger onto the chassis with the sheet metal mounting screw using one of the washers between the rubber and the head of the screw. Bolt the bottom section of the hanger to the side exhaust mounting bracket using the middle length ”...
  • Page 468 Using the inner hole of the bracket as a guide, drill the 2”x 2” outrigger all the way through both of the tube walls and into the footbox area with a ” bit. Insert the rubber standoff between the bracket and outrigger and put the nut on finger tight then run the long ”...
  • Page 469: Aluminum Splash Guards

    Tighten the whole assembly together. Aluminum Splash guards  ⅛”, ” drill bit, drill, rivet gun, silicone, caulking gun, ¾” socket, ratchet, extension, marker  Secondary body fasteners, packaged aluminum, front wheel and tire 508-291-3443...
  • Page 470: Front Wheel

    Front Wheel Put some of the press-on bulb seal around the outside edge of the aluminum front splash guards (they look like large elephant ears)where they will contact the body. Hold the splashguards up against the rear bent lip of the engine bay “F” aluminum. Overlap the two lips.
  • Page 471 Fit the splash guards in position. If needed, trim them to fit around the outside edge, the weatherstrip will cover the trimming. Put a wheel and tire on the car and check for aluminum clearance. If necessary push the aluminum in and mark the inside of the body at the outer edge of the splashguards.
  • Page 472 Silicone and rivet the panels in place down the length of the flange. Use one of the ” rivets to attach to the bottom of the fender just forward of the exhaust cut-out. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 473: Rear Wheel

    Rear Wheel Push a piece of the bulb seal weather stripping around both rear splash guards where they will contact the body. Fit the panels in place and trim the outside perimeter if needed. The small tab on the bottom faces towards the rear of the car and is on the bottom.
  • Page 474 Silicone and rivet the panels in place. Bend the lower tab by hand to fit up flush with the body. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 475: Finishing Touches

    Use a long ” rivet as low as possible to attach the tab to the lower fender. Finishing Touches Review the Race car checklist in the appendix. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 476: Headlight Alignment

    Headlight Alignment  Masking tape, marker, tape measure  Make sure that the car is at the correct ride height before the alignment procedure is done. Ride height should be 4½” at the front and 4½” at the back measured to the bottom of the 4” round tube with the normal number of people/weight in the car.
  • Page 477: Alignment Specifications

    Measurement A: From the ground to the geometric center of one of the headlight lenses Measurement B: From one of the low beam headlights to the vehicle centerline. (Also measure from high beam center to vehicle centerline for 4 headlight systems) Note these measurements.
  • Page 478 Front For a car using a manual steering rack or the power rack without power use the following specifications: Caster: 3 Camber: -0.5 Total Toe: ” For a car using power steering car use the following specifications: Caster: 7 Camber: -0.5 Total Toe: ”...
  • Page 479: Optional Parts

     There should never be more than 1” of thread showing past the tightened down jam nuts on either end of both adjusting tubes. The Pivot Bolts must be loosened while the car is being aligned and retightened afterwards Optional Parts Check out for the latest options available.
  • Page 480: Performance Reference Material And Technical Support

    Chapter Performance Reference Material and Technical Support 508-291-3443...
  • Page 481: Maintenance

    Maintenance Check the items on the race car check sheet in the Appendix on a yearly basis or before track days depending on how hard the car is driven. Wheels  Only 7”-9” wheels are recommended for the front. If using a wheel wider than 7”, FFR front lower control arms are needed to prevent the wheels rubbing the control arms.
  • Page 482 Left: FFR car using late model 17” Cobra™ R rims. Right: Ford Racing Cobra™ R 17” wheels and 12” Cobra™ Brakes. 17”x 9” and 17”x 10.5” FR style wheels. For a more vintage look, take a look at our Halibrand style wheels. Our online parts catalog: has more views of these wheels on cars.
  • Page 483: 1994-1998 Rear End

    Left: 15” FFR Halibrand style. Right 17” FFR Halibrand Style 1994-1998 rear end Use two (4) 9” wide, 5.95” backspace wheels in the front and the rear. If you would like a wider tire than this in the rear it is possible to use aftermarket 10.5” wide, 27mm offset wheels if the axles and caliper brackets are changed so that the rear is the same width as the 87-93 rear ends.
  • Page 484: Gears

    Gears The Mustang 5.0 manual transmission car comes with either 2.73 or 3.08 rear end gear ratios from the factory. If you can get a rear from an automatic car it will have 3.27 gears. There is an ID tag on the rear differential.
  • Page 485 In order to increase the flow of air above 5000 rpm, upgrade from the stock mass air sensor. Aftermarket 70 mm or 75 mm mass air units are an excellent choice and have proven effective. If the mass air meter is changed make sure it is calibrated for the injectors you are using or you will have to change the injectors too.
  • Page 486: Oil Cooler

    Timing Most computer chips simply change the timing of the engine and slightly enrich the mixture. Using a timing light, advancing the base timing to 14 will do the same. Higher octane fuel will be needed. Under-drive Pulleys Yes. They work well on all cars. Oil Cooler Not really necessary on small blocks or cars that aren’t raced heavily.
  • Page 487: Steering Rack

    feature of the Tremec TKO is it allows the shifter to be relocated 8” forward of the normal shifter location if a vertical shifter is desired verses a forward angled shifter. Steering Rack Stock: 15:1 Once the car is rolling either a 15:1 or 18:1 rack will yield about the same effort feel. This is good for most driving situations.
  • Page 488: Rear Suspension

    FFR two piece spindles (FFR#14850) – 5 lug, many wheels and brakes plus improved suspension geometry, improved steering feel and more adjustability over 94-04 spindles. Rear Suspension The standard solid axle 4-link rear suspension works well, is low maintenance and is reliable. Which rear suspension you choose depends on the type of driving you do a majority of the time.
  • Page 489: Control Arms

    3-link suspension - This is for the more serious driver that goes to more road course track events and wants to start exploring the limit without giving up the “off the line” bite of a solid axle. IRS suspension – Good everyday driving suspension. The IRS is best for rough surfaces Control Arms Stock: Stamped steel with rubber bushings.
  • Page 490 Front: The stock front arms work well all round. The Factory Five tubular lower control arms with polyurethane bushings are lighter, eliminate the rubber and look better than the stock Mustang arms. Rear: Using tubular control arms with polyurethane bushings helps to locate the solid axle and hook up better on the drag launches.
  • Page 491: Shocks/Springs

    Shocks/Springs Using the Mustang rear coil springs and shocks gives a comfortable ride. For a slightly stiffer suspension, replace the stock rear shocks with aftermarket units. We have found that KYB makes an inexpensive good replacement that roughly 20% stiffer than stock. For the well balanced fun to drive car, the 3-link rear suspension combined with the Factory Five custom valved Koni rear coil-over shocks work the best.
  • Page 492: 5-Lug (4.5"Pattern)

    11”Front Spindle OEM 87-93 V8 Mustang front spindle Rotor OEM 87-93 V8 Mustang 11” rotor Caliper OEM 87-93 V8 Mustang 60mm caliper 10.5”Rear Stainless Steel Brake Corp. 87-93 Mustang disc brake conversion kit (Part #A-112-1) Disc Brakes R’ Us - Select FORD and FACTORY FIVE for options 5-Lug (4.5”pattern) Master Cylinder –...
  • Page 493: Irs

    Rotor OEM 94-98 Mustang Cobra™ 11.65” rotor Caliper OEM 94-98 Mustang Cobra™ single piston 1.4375” caliper Bracket FFR 11.65” Caliper mount brackets (FFR#14571, 14572) Master Cylinder – FFR ” Master cylinder/Proportioning valve (FFR#14739)  The rear discs are 5-lug, so vehicles need to have the front rotors converted to 5-lug to match. ...
  • Page 494: Superchargers

    If the caliper has pistons on both sides of the rotor, disregard one side. Superchargers Factory Five Racing customers have successfully installed Kenne Bell, Vortech, and Powerdyne superchargers in their cars. The key to any supercharger installation seems to be the side that the supercharger is hooked up on.
  • Page 495: Helpful Reference Material

    Helpful Reference Material Must Reads  The largest discussion forum for Factory Five Racing kits. Also has many vendor links. Helpful  5.0L Ford Dyno Tests. By Richard Holdener.  Building 4.6/5.4L Ford Horsepower. By Richard Holdener. ...
  • Page 496: A Final Note About Completed Cars And Car Builders

    Factory Five Racing does not build or sell completed or partially completed vehicles. We are aware of a number of performance and hot rod shops that claim to specialize in building race cars and kit cars. We have over the years compiled a list of some of them, which includes parts yards, used parts suppliers, paint and body shops, hot rod assemblers, and race car shops.
  • Page 497: Appendix A - Templates

    Appendix A – Templates 508-291-3443...
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  • Page 510: Appendix B - Donor Parts List

    Appendix B – Donor Parts List 508-291-3443...
  • Page 511  In some cases not all parts listed below will be necessary, but it is suggested to obtain all parts to avoid future difficulties. PART NAME CHECK Engine Engine mount, (L,R) w/nuts and bolts Starter Transmission, bell-housing, clutch, and shifter components Transmission mount w/nuts and bolts Driveshaft w/4 bolts Clutch cable w/bell-housing retaining c-clip...
  • Page 512: Appendix C - Big Block Installation

    Appendix C – Big Block Installation 427 Shown here with fuel injection. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 513: Engine Preparation

     These instructions are designed to supplement the assembly manual where the assembly process is different from the build up using a small block. Sections of the manual that deal with wiring and motor preparation of the small block will not apply and can be skipped. Read through these instructions before beginning assembly as some of the changes occur early on in the build up.
  • Page 514 460 Single plane manifold with 850 CFM Carburetor The throttle cable from the kit can be used with a carburetor and most Holley’s come with the correct linkage ball to snap on the cable. Use a universal throttle linkage bracket from Holley or equivalent to hook the cable up to the intake.
  • Page 515 427 Engine Mount with rubber isolator. The transmission we recommend is a Tremec TKO 500 or 600 heavy duty 5 speed that will fit the big block engines with a Lakewood or McLeod bellhousing and the spacer mentioned in the suggested parts list.
  • Page 516 the pedals and cable from the Mustang. If you are using the spacer from Mcleod it comes with a pivot and jam nut, as well as a clearance hole where the pivot needs to sit. Mark the location on the bellhousing using the spacer as a template, the pivot is centered about the hole in the spacer, then drill and tap the hole to fit your pivot.
  • Page 517: Wiring Harness

    The slot for the fork should also be elongated to provide more clutch travel. Remove ½” of material toward the engine side of the shield. The last modification to the housing is to enlarge the hole for the clutch cable to pass through, the ½” bolt hole that is directly in front of the slot for the fork needs to be drilled out with a ”...
  • Page 518: Suggested Parts

    The Starter solenoid, coil, and ignition system can be mounted to the firewall for an uncluttered look in the engine bay. There is a hole in the rear corner of the Drivers inside footbox wall for these wires, as well as the rear taillight wires to pass through. The fuse box mounts easiest above the drivers’...
  • Page 519 Mustang Unlimited 800-243-7278 Holcomb Motorsports 800-475-7223 508-291-3443...
  • Page 520: Appendix D - Optional Rear Disc Brakes

    Appendix D – Optional Rear Disc Brakes 508-291-3443...
  • Page 521: Installation Instructions

    Installation instructions  These instructions apply to any 1986-2004 Ford Mustang 8.8 rear axle with Traction-Lok differential (FFR#s 14319,14970) using 1994-2004 OEM Mustang style disc brakes (FFR#s 14834, and 14903).  The installation of this kit can be performed by anyone with an average amount of mechanical experience, but it is very important to follow the instructions and refer to a Mustang Shop Manual or equivalent.
  • Page 522  Torque Wrench, 8mm, 16mm, ½”, ” sockets, Ratchet, Needle nose pliers, Small flat head screwdriver, (2) Jack stands, Rags, Oil drain pan, RTV Silicone, 1.875qts of 75W-90 weight non-synthetic gear oil with GL-5 or GL-6 rating, 4oz of Friction modifier (Ford# CM-19546- A1), Brake Fluid.
  • Page 523 Rotate the differential until you see the small bolt (Differential pinion shaft locking bolt) that holds in the large center pin. Remove the bolt using an 8mm socket and ratchet. Reach behind the differential and push out the center pin from the back side. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 524 Once the pin is removed, push the axles in toward the differential. When you do this the C -clips that hold the axles in will be visible and they may even fall out. If the C-clips do not fall out, push them off with a small screw driver or needle nose pliers.
  • Page 525  Caution: Care should be taken not to damage inner wheel bearing oil seals when removing axle shafts from rear axle housing. Install the brake caliper brackets so that the caliper will mount on the front side of the axle. Use the four ”-16 flange bolts provided and torque them to 45-50 ft/lbs.
  • Page 526 Slide the axles back into the differential and re-install the C-clips. When re-installing the C-clips it helps to use a small magnet to hold onto them as it is difficult to reach the axle and hold onto the clip.  Caution: Care must be taken not to let axle shaft splines damage inner wheel bearing oil seals or rear wheel bearing assembly.
  • Page 527 Once the C-clips are in, pull the axle back out until it stops so the clips are held in place. Install the center pin and the bolt that holds it. It’s a good idea to put Locktite on the bolt before installing it, then torque it to 25 ft/lbs.
  • Page 528 Install the brake rotor using one lug nut to hold it in place. Make sure to clean the surface of the rotor with brake parts cleaner before installing the caliper. Once the rotor is on, put the brake pads in the caliper by pushing down on the pad to compress the wire springs on the top of the pad, and then slide them into the slots in the caliper hanger.
  • Page 529 When installing the caliper make sure that the brake fluid bleed screw is on the top side of the caliper. Do not worry about the LH/RH markings on the calipers. Torque the two 12mm mounting bolts to 55ft/lbs using a 16mm socket. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 530: Torque Specifications

    Allow the silicone on the cover to dry overnight then fill the rear end with 4oz of friction modifier then 1.875qts of 75W-90 gear oil (or until oil reaches the fill plug). Replace the fill plug and tighten to 15-30 ft/lbs. Torque Specifications FASTENER TORQUE...
  • Page 531: Appendix E - Race Car Check Sheet

    Appendix E – Race car check sheet 508-291-3443...
  • Page 532 CAR_______________________________________ Date___________ Steering  Steering wheel tight  Universal joint set screws tight  Rack mount bolts tight  Tie rod ends tight  Tie rod to spindle bolts tight  Steering free lock to lock Front Suspension  Ride height ...
  • Page 533 Electrical  Battery charged  Battery mount and connections secure  Brake lights functioning  All wires free and clear of moving or hot parts Rear Suspension  Ride height  Shock mounting bolts tight  Spring collars tight/taped  Wheel bearings tight (IRS) ...
  • Page 534: Appendix F - Torque Specifications

    Appendix F – Torque Specifications 508-291-3443...
  • Page 535 General Bolt torque specifications* Thread English Zinc Plated Ft-Lb. ¼ -20 ¼ -28 ⅜ -16 ⅜ -24 ½ -13 ½ -20 ⅝ -11 ⅝ -14 Thread Metric Zinc Plated Ft-Lb. ATTENTION: Use the following specs in order to torque Stainless Bolts. ”...
  • Page 536: Appendix G - Mustang Specifications

    Appendix G – Mustang Specifications 508-291-3443...
  • Page 537: Special Version Mustangs With Specifications

    Between 1996 and 1998 Ford made 125,231 GT and 28,708 Cobra™ versions of the Mustang Between 1999 and 2004 Ford made ~200,000 GT, 5,582 Bullitt, 9,652 Mach 1 and 20,727 Cobra™ versions of the Mustang. (All information is based on V8 Ford Mustangs from 1979 to 2004) Special Version Mustangs with Specifications Year &...
  • Page 538: Transmission

    Transmission Torque Capacity Year Type lbs-ft Part Number Weight 1983.5 T-5 2.95 1.94 1.34 1.00 0.725 2.76 E3ZR-7003-A 1984 2.95 1.94 1.34 1.00 0.625 2.76 E4ZR-7003-DA 1985-89 T-5 3.35 1.93 1.29 1.00 0.675 3.15 E(5,6)ZR-7003-(FA,FB) 1989-93 T-5 3.35 1.99 1.33 1.00 0.675 3.15...
  • Page 539: Rear Brakes

    Rear Brakes 1987 to1993 Mustangs used a 4.25” 4-lug bolt pattern drum brake. From 1994 to 2004 Mustangs switched to have a 10.5”diameter 4.5” 5-lug bolt pattern solid rear rotor with a single piston cast iron caliper. All Cobra™ and the Cobra™ R versions of the Mustang from 1993 had an 11.65” rear vented rotors with the same calipers that the 10.5”...
  • Page 540: Speedometer Cable

    Speedometer cable From 1983.5 to 1993 Mustangs used a mechanical speedometer with a cable which had a plastic gear c- clipped on to its end, which was inserted into the driver side of the transmission. This plastic gear is designed to translate the proper vehicles speeds that will correspond with the ratio of the gears in the rear axle.
  • Page 541: Exhaust Headers

    measurement of all of the cylinders can be taken. All oxygen sensors are recommended to be used when placing a fuel injected engine into a Factory Five kit. Exhaust headers 1986 to 1993 Mustang headers have 1.5” tubes, and remained the same shape. From 1994 to 1995 Mustang headers still have 1.5”...
  • Page 542: Fuel Lines, Fuel Filter And Bracket

    From 1988 to 1993 fuel pumps were 88 liters/hr., and the 1994 to 2004 pumps were 110 liters/hr. The Fuel filler neck is also a donor part required for an FFR kit.. In 1999, the tank filler hole and the filler neck changed to 1”...
  • Page 543: Springs

    though they increased in length by approximately ¾”. This arm can also be used by following the same modifications as the 1979 to 1993 arms. There are two sets of holes on the Factory Five chassis to mount the lower control arms. The inner holes are for the 1994 to 2004 Control arms, and the outer holes are for the 1979 to 1993 arms.
  • Page 544: Accelerator Pedal

    selection tips at the beginning of this manual) so more of the harness parts must be kept or the computer will need to be flashed. In 1999 Ford added to the PATS so that the gauge cluster needs to be present to start the car.
  • Page 545: Appendix H - Fluid Specifications

    Appendix H – Fluid Specifications 508-291-3443...
  • Page 546 Engine Oil Type Capacity 10W-30 5.0 qts. 4.6L 5W-30 8.0 qts w/FFR pan Transmission Oil Type T-45 3650 T-56 Mercon/Dexron III Trans. Fluid 2.8 qts. 3.25 qts. 4.0 qts. 2.64 qts. 4.0 qts 8.8 Solid Rear Axle Friction Oil Type Capacity Modifier 80W-90...