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Factory Five Racing Mk3 Roadster Assembly Manual

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Summary of Contents for Factory Five Racing Mk3 Roadster

  • Page 1 508-291-3443...
  • Page 2: Table Of Contents

    Table of Contents ................................... ABLE OF ONTENTS ....................................ORWARD ..............................TATEMENT OF IABILITY ..................................... AFETY ............................... OOLS AND UPPLIES VIII CHAPTER 1 - DONOR PARTS AND PARTS NEEDED...................... 10 ..............................11 ONOR ELECTION ........................14 ISASSEMBLY OF A USTANG ONOR FOR ARTS ..............................
  • Page 3 ..............................136 ECK AND ..................................140 INDSCREEN ....................................142 ................................143 OORS AND INGES ..................................146 HECK TRAPS ............................... 146 NDER DOOR LUMINUM ................................. 148 IRROR ................................150 ADIATOR LUMINUM ..................................152 XHAUST ....................................155 ................................156 EARVIEW IRROR ................................. 157 AUGES AND .............................
  • Page 4: Forward

    Forward By David Smith President Factory Five Racing, Inc. If you are reading this, you are embarking on a mission to build your own car, or at least considering doing so. I wanted to share with you some of my experiences and lessons learned while working with literally thousands of people who have completed this undertaking with us.
  • Page 5 You will join a community of others who have earned their own… and THAT is the story of Factory Five Racing and that is what awaits you in this process.
  • Page 6: Statement Of Non-Liability

    This kit is only a collection of parts designed for use primarily as a race car. Factory Five Racing does not build completed or partially completed vehicles. You are responsible for ensuring that the vehicle you build complies with all Federal, State and local laws regarding its use.
  • Page 7: Safety Tips

    Safety Tips • Read the manual. It is at least a good guide and place to start. • Don’t take short cuts. • Before starting work, make sure you have the proper tools, the required parts, and sufficient space for the job. If you damage any parts, it will probably be because they were either not stored properly or, the wrong tool was used to install them.
  • Page 8: Tools And Supplies List

    Tools and Supplies List The following lists detail the tools and supplies that are needed to build your kit. The “helpful” items are not crucial to the assembly but make life easier. Home Depot HUSKY®, Sears CRAFTSMAN®, and Snap-On tools are all guaranteed for life and we’ve found them to be reliable tools. Storage shelves for kit and running gear parts Body storage area (can be outside) SAE and metric socket set, a 52-piece set that includes an 18mm is a good choice...
  • Page 9: Required Supplies

    Stick with name brand products like Eastwood, 3M, and Duplicolor. The Eastwood brand coatings are great for bringing weathered and oxidized parts up to show quality. PPG brand and Dupont brand paints are excellent. Required Supplies Engine degreaser Silicone Door and window sealant, GE Silicone II or equivalent - 4 tubes Coolant –...
  • Page 10: Chapter 1 - Donor Parts And Parts Needed

    Chapter 1 - Donor Parts and Parts Needed 508-291-3443...
  • Page 11: Donor Part Selection Tips

    If using a 4.6L engine or donor parts newer than 1995 call and ask for the 4.6L Assembly Manual This chapter deals with the donor parts needed in addition to the parts that we included with our kit. Many people choose to use parts from a single Mustang donor. If you are not going to use a donor car but choose to acquire parts separately, this section may still be useful.
  • Page 12: Where To Look

    crashed cars is very good. Where to look • Junkyards – If they do not have one on the lot, usually they go to auctions weekly and can get what you want. • Newspaper classifieds. • – search for wrecked mustang •...
  • Page 13 In order to make a wise choice on running gear, there are several things to look for. First, make sure that the VIN numbers on the transmission and engine are present and match the numbers on the vehicle title (if available). If the numbers don’t match, (let’s say the transmission was replaced) make sure the parts yard records the new numbers on their bill of sale.
  • Page 14: Disassembly Of A Mustang Donor For Parts

    slip yolk (transmission end) and the rear flange is important. The slip yolk must be smooth and clean without scores or gouges that can cause premature wear and develop leaks down the road. We recommend using only yokes from manual transmission cars; the automatic cars have a weight that limits the universal joint movement.
  • Page 15: Brake Power Booster

    10. Loosen the bolts on the brackets at the top of radiator. 11. Lift the radiator, shroud and the fan with clutch up and out of the engine bay. Discard or sell the fan. Keep the shroud. You won’t need the Mustang fan since a 16” puller fan is included in the kit. 12.
  • Page 16: Engine Bay Sensors And Electrical Connections

    2. Remove the lower steering column by taking off the two bolts at the flexible collar in the area where the splined steering rack shaft begins. 3. Remove the steering rack outer tie rod nuts and cotter pins. If the tie rod will not come out of the spindles easily, use a hammer but be careful not to damage the threads.
  • Page 17 10. Remove the power steering lines from the pump, catching the fluid in a bucket. 11. Remove the braided ground strap from the rear driver’s side of the engine. 12. Follow the fuel lines off the engine and cut the lines 4” after they turn into the hard plastic line. 13.
  • Page 18: Gauge Cluster And Speedometer Cable

    Computer ATTENTION: If you are going to run the car with a Carburetor you can disregard the wiring harness part in this section. We still recommend the use of a fuel inertia cut off switch in your car if using an electric fuel pump. TOOLS: Socket set PARTS: Mustang Computer and OEM plastic cradle.
  • Page 19: Turn Signal And Ignition Switches

    Mustang gauges mounted in gauge pod 5. The two gauge wiring connectors are removed from the gauge cluster by squeezing the outside clips. Remove the clear plastic gauge cover with a Torx screwdriver and discard. Place the switches and gauge pod in your parts area, awaiting kit assembly.
  • Page 20: Front Wiring Harness

    PARTS: Dash wiring harnesses. Note: The wiring comes out in stages. Keep the sub-assemblies together as they are removed. Remember to identify both ends of every connector that you disassemble. The easy way to do this is to tape and number each side of the connector the same or use colored zip ties. The connectors will only work if they’re mated to the other similar shaped connector.
  • Page 21: Speedometer And Clutch Cables

    Front wiring harness with hookups for headlights, alternator, and horn Speedometer and Clutch Cables TOOLS: Socket set, duct tape. PARTS: Speedometer cable and sending unit, clutch cable. 1. Pull the speedometer cable out from the dash area keeping the rubber grommet that is on it in place. This grommet will also be used.
  • Page 22: Shifter And Shifter Handle

    Shifter and Shifter handle ATTENTION: The kit comes with new bolts for the shifter handle so you don’t need the OEM bolts. Save them anyway according to rule #85 of the car guys’ handbook which states “save any and all fasteners in rusty coffee cans”. This, of course, makes finding and using such fasteners in the future all but impossible but it makes us feel good.
  • Page 23 PARTS: Donor car rear wiring harness. 1. Remove bulb bases from the rear light housings if they are still on your donor. Use tape and a marker to label the wires. 2. Remove the rubber body plug from the fuel harness exit point in the base of the trunk area and unplug the connector.
  • Page 24: Front Suspension

    the plug with the square socket on it. Use a ⅜” ratchet handle to undo it. 5. Tape over the rear of the transmission so that it doesn’t leak or drip fluid. 6. Undo the transmission from the cross-member. 7. Loosen the cross-member attachment bolts. ATTENTION: Get help with the next few steps, as the parts involved are heavy! 8.
  • Page 25: Fuel Tank

    Lower A-arm w/bolts, brake caliper, spindle and brake rotor. 9. Use a spring compression tool to remove the front springs or chain the spring to the chassis. 10. Remove the three bolts that retain the struts to the top mounting plate. 11.
  • Page 26: Rear End

    grommet on the side of the tank. 7. The fuel tank is held in place with two straps that go under the tank and bolt to the body in front. 8. Place a floor jack under fuel tank and loosen the strap bolts. 9.
  • Page 27: Donor Part Preparation

    the body/chassis. 12. All of the arms should remain attached to the rear end assembly. Once off, place the OEM bolts back into the arms and attach nuts so they do not get lost. 13. Remove the rear end from under the car. 14.
  • Page 28: Front Lower Control Arms

    3. Cut the upper rubber spring seat so that during assembly of the kit, it will conform to the spring mount on the frame. This is done with one cut across the part. Do not replace these bushings with aftermarket silicone pieces, as these will allow the springs to slide since they contain a slippery release agent in them.
  • Page 29 Barbed fitting removed from plastic hose. Fuel Tank TOOLS: Pliers PARTS: Fuel Tank 1. At the locations on the tank where the tank straps come near the tank, use a pair of pliers and bend the bent parts flat. Pedal Box and Accelerator Pedal The FFR Roadster uses a manual braking system.
  • Page 30 Accelerator pedal modified 3. Remove the bracket for the cruise control brake switch from the pedal box. 87-93 Pedal Box 1. Mark the mounting face of the 1” up from the bottom of the mounting plate. 87-93 Pedalbox marked for cutting. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 31: Pedal Box

    2. Cut-off the marked area with a hack saw. This is necessary for steering shaft clearance. 1994-1995 Pedal Box 1. Cut the corner off the outside top of the pedal box. Top outside of pedal box. 2. Remove the cruise control switch located under the plastic clutch quadrant on the right side of the pedal box.
  • Page 32: Wiring Harness

    5. Remove the brake pedal spring from its mount hole and remove the plate on the front of the pedal box along with the round spacers. Brake pedal spring in mount hole and plate/spacers on pedal box front. 6. Relocate brake pedal spring to pedal box triangular opening. Brake pedal spring in triangular opening.
  • Page 33: Engine Preparation

    3. Heater wires 4. Air bag blue boxes and wires 5. Electronic seat and window controls. 6. Remote trunk release wires Not only does this take weight out of the car, it gives additional room behind the dash. Look at the plugs and compare them to a Chilton’s manual to make sure you are cutting the correct plug before actually cutting.
  • Page 34: Alternate Drive Pulley Preparation

    TOOLS: ⅜”, ¾”, ” sockets, ” hex keys, regular screwdriver, Teflon tape, tube bender, ” deep socket, ½”, ” combination wrenches, ” drill bit, drill. Bending the fuel lines on the engine. 1. Bend the fuel lines away from the engine block just at the point where they are held in place by the retaining clips.
  • Page 35: Cleaning And Detailing

    Transmission 1. If you are running a T-5 Transmission, remove the casting tab with the hole in it that is sticking out on the passenger side with a hack saw. T-5 mounted in frame. Note the tab to be removed. Steering Rack and Shaft ATTENTION: If you are planning on running power steering this section is not needed.
  • Page 36: Not Using A Donor

    electrical pieces. If the parts are really dirty, you can take the parts and assemblies to a do-it-yourself car wash. They usually have an engine degreaser as an option and most places run very high water temperature that helps loosen debris and grease. If doing this, tape over the engine intake holes, engine wiring connectors, and coolant openings.
  • Page 37 becomes flush with the inspection cover. The Internet has changed this part of the business forever. Parts are now much easier to find on-line. Check out a number of customer and enthusiast based forums for help and advice. If you are going to use donor parts from a year other than 1987-1993, see Appendix B 508-291-3443...
  • Page 38: Chapter 2 - Step By Step Chassis Build-Up

    Chapter 2 - Step By Step Chassis Build-up 508-291-3443...
  • Page 39: Unpacking Your Replica Kit

    If using a 4.6L engine or donor parts newer than 1995 call and ask for the 4.6L Assembly Manual Unpacking Your Replica Kit Please note that your boxes are numbered, when you read your packing list you will see that next to each assembly there is a number circled.
  • Page 40: Aluminum Removal And Preparation

    5. When you store the body on the ground (unsupported) for long periods of time you may get slight distortion (bowing) around the walls forward of the doors. In order to avoid the chance of this happening, we recommend putting two short 2”x 4” braces (24” long) under the windshield holes (running vertically to support the hood cowl area just forward of the doors under the windshield holes).
  • Page 41: Engine Bay Aluminum

    Trace around the frame members, and then use a ruler to mark rivet locations 3. Remove any screws holding the panel to the frame and remove the aluminum panels. Keep the #8 screws to help with aluminum positioning later during build-up. 4.
  • Page 42 Note: If installing a heater/defroster, it is easier to make the necessary holes now before the firewall is installed. See the instructions included with the heater for hole size and location. 9. Run a silicone bead along the front of the horizontal 2”x 2” between the ¾” upright on the passenger side and the ¾”...
  • Page 43: Front Suspension Installation

    Passenger side firewall extension in place. Front Suspension Installation TOOLS: Combination wrenches, coil-over adjusting tool (FFR# 10961), ⅜”, ⅝”, ¾”, ”, ”, ⅞”, ”, 1⅛”, 18mm sockets. Rubber mallet, eye protection, drill w/#8 hex nut driver, ⅛”, ½” drill bits, drill, rivet tool, torque wrench, silicone, caulk gun, #8 self tapping screws.
  • Page 44 5. Holding the dust boot in place, insert the ball joint into the Spindle Adapter bracket (FFR# 13819). This bracket replaces the Mustang strut. Be sure to use the cotter pins included with the ball joint. Torque the ball joint to 95-122Nm (70-90 lbft). If the top of the crown nut goes past the hole in the ball joint, use the spacer that comes with the ball joint.
  • Page 45 Note: The front lower control arm bolts may need to be trimed or use a washer under the head for the front bolts due to the manufacturing process of the bolt. Control Arm Mounts 8. While holding the arm parallel to the ground, torque the bolts to 135-149Nm (100-110 lbft). 9.
  • Page 46 1. If retro fitting the Koni shocks, place the car on jack stands and remove the old shocks and springs. Save all of the fasteners and spacers, they will be reused. 2. Double check the jam nut under the rod end and bump stop to make sure that it is tight. 3.
  • Page 47 6. Slide the rubber bumper about two inches down on the shaft. 7. Put the spring on the shock, then install the spring hat on the shaft end of the shock and push the rubber bumper up against it. 8. Rotate the spring seat back up the sleeve so that the spring pushes the hat tight against the end of the shock.
  • Page 48 Assembled Koni coil-over shock. 10. Pass the shock assembly (with the body of the shock up) through the upper A-arm and attach them to the Mustang rear shock bracket on the stock lower control arm using the 0.43” spacers that are supplied in the kit.
  • Page 49 14. Fasten the shock to the top mount with the fasteners and 0.675” spacers provided. 15. Adjust the ride height of the car. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 50: Steering Shaft

    16. Once the ride height is set, tighten the small set screw in the spring seat just until you feel it contact. The end of the set screw is plastic so that the threads are not destroyed. Not a lot of pressure is needed to prevent the seat from turning.
  • Page 51 6. Slide the 1” flange bearing onto the top of the shaft, the 1” DD tube end, with the set screw side of the bearing towards the top of the shaft. 7. Slide half of the flange bearing mount down over the shaft to the bearing. 8.
  • Page 52: Steering Rack Installation

    Steering Rack Installation TOOLS: ¾” Socket, ¾”, 1.50” Wrench, Needle nose pliers, Adjustable wrench, thread lock PARTS: Steering system hardware (FFR# 11073), 87-93 Lower Steering shaft (FFR# 13701), Donor steering rack. Above: Ford steering rack and fasteners (hydraulic lines removed). 1.
  • Page 53 3. Insert the steering rack bolts through the frame mount, rack and rear frame mount and lock nut. Use the provided washers on the driver side (slotted) only. 4. Tighten the bolts to the bolt torque spec. Steering rack mounted to frame Note: The inner Tie Rod Extensions are for stock Power Steering Racks only, not for manual steering racks.
  • Page 54 7. Put a dot of thread lock on the threads of the steering rack extension and attach the new inner tie rods to the steering rack. Inner tie rod attached to the steering rack. 8. Push the boot back onto the steering rack body and attach with zip ties. 9.
  • Page 55: Rear-End

    Steering rack installed. 11. Turn the steering wheel to make sure there is no bind in the U-joints. The steering should be smooth. Readjust the U-joints if necessary to prevent any binding. 12. Sit in the car and adjust the steering wheel to desired height by adding washers under the upper pillow block.
  • Page 56 10. Bolt on the perch using the ½” bolts provided. Spring perch mount bolted on frame. 11. Thread the cut rear springs onto the conical frame mounts all the way. 12. Insert the cut rubber spring mount between the spring and the steel seat. Make sure the end of it is flush with the end of the spring mount.
  • Page 57 Passenger side stock rear lower control arm in the frame mount 18. Start raising the rear, taking care to position the two lower control arm rubber spring mounts and the springs in their correct seats on the lower control arms. Rear driver’s side quad shock mount.
  • Page 58: Suspension Torque Specs Chart

    This is done so that the bushings are not pre-loaded which will affect handling and ride quality. 26. The rear end is attached to the Factory Five Racing frame at the shocks, springs, and control arms (upper and lower). Checking the tightness of the bolts on the rear control arms should be done with your car’s regular maintenance.
  • Page 59: Fuel Tank And Fuel Filter

    Item Lbft Front Front lower control arm to frame 135-162 100-110 Front lower ball joint to spindle 106-163 80-120 Upper A-arm to frame 135-162 100-110 Upper ball joint to IFS bracket 95-122 70-90 IFS bracket to spindle 135-162 100-110 Rear Upper control arm to axle 95-135 70-100...
  • Page 60: Fuel Filter

    3. Put a floor jack underneath the center of the gas tank with a friend holding one end of the gas tank for balance. 4. Raise the tank and hold it up to the ¾” vertical tubes while you get the straps positioned. 5.
  • Page 61: Pedals

    3. Make sure that the fuel line will not get in the way of the tire. Use zip-ties or fasten the lines securely to make sure there is sufficient clearance. Fuel filter mounted to the passenger side 2”x 3” tube Pedals TOOLS: ⅜”, ”...
  • Page 62 1. Position the Mustang pedal box on the two angled ¾” tubes over the driver’s feet, and attach using two short ⅜” bolts and two washers to the front wall at the front of the foot box. Positioning the pedal box 2.
  • Page 63: Master Cylinder & Push Rod

    Pedal box positioned Note corner to be removed on pedal box 5. Remove the pedal assembly. 6. Drill ¼” holes completely through the ¾” tubing for the pedal box. 7. Use a ” drill bit to drill the bolt hole in the pedal box for the master cylinder bolt. 8.
  • Page 64 Tightening the master cylinder. Note the spacers directly behind it 1. Use the ⅜”x 2” bolts provided to mount the master cylinder and spacers to the footbox front wall. The number of spacers used dictates the height of the brake pedal. Start with one spacer unless you are 6’...
  • Page 65: Cockpit Aluminum

    7. If you plan to race frequently, use some small springs and attach them to the brake pedal and pedal box to prevent the pedal from moving during severe acceleration. 8. The small aluminum piece packed in the assembly is not used for this application. Cockpit Aluminum ATTENTION: Do one panel at a time.
  • Page 66 Transmission tunnel Front Vertical Wall positioned. 4. Push the top front of the floor transmission tunnel sides in against the front vertical wall then, while holding it in place, use your other hand in the transmission tunnel to position the bottom of the Front Vertical wall so that it is located in the lower corner properly.
  • Page 67 1. Position the foot box floor. The front edge sits on top of the front wall bottom tab and the back gets attached to the 2”x 2” tube. 10. Mark where the rivets will go. 11. Remove the panel and apply silicone to the frame. 12.
  • Page 68 28. Take a look at the completed foot box and floor for gaps between the panels and around the seat harness mounts. Use silicone to fill these gaps. Drivers inside footbox Passenger Foot Box 1. Position the foot box floor. The front edge sits on top of the front wall bottom tab and the back gets attached to the 2”x 2”...
  • Page 69 Passenger inside wall assembled 15. Position the front wall with self-tapping screws. 16. Mark where the rivets will go, remove the panel and apply silicone to the panels. 17. Rivet the panel in place. 18. Position the outside wall with self-tapping screws. 19.
  • Page 70: Fuel, Brake And Battery Lines

    Cockpit Rear Wall 1. Position the panel on the frame. The panel sits on top of the floors. 2. Mark where the rivets will go. 3. Remove the panel and apply silicone to the frame and aluminum tabs. 4. Attach the panels with self-tapping screws. 5.
  • Page 71 • It is a good idea to make a small loop at the end of the lines (where they secure to the brake line mounts or master cylinder). This loop will provide good adjustment for any small variances without bending or crimping the line and provide protection from vibration. Brake line loop made using two ⅞”...
  • Page 72 3. Run the line up along the backside of the 2”x 3” frame members and across to the ¾” tubing that runs down forward to the transmission rear mount. 4. Attach the line to the frame with the small size insulated line clips (FFR# 10970) and ”...
  • Page 73: Fuel Line

    From Master Cylinder Rear From Master Cylinder Front side Firewall Front of Car To Right Front Brakes To Rear Brakes Brake distribution block line routing. Right is towards front of car 6. From the distribution block, run the line forward along the ¾” tubing to the front side of the “X” member for a clean engine appearance.
  • Page 74 Fuel line routing in front of the passenger foot box 3. From the passenger outer corner, go towards the first 2”x 2” frame outrigger alongside the 4” round tube. 4. Fasten the lines to the 2”x 2” square cockpit outriggers with the insulated line clips. 5.
  • Page 75: Battery Relocation Kit

    Rubber fuel line and Mustang connector on fuel filter 11. Attach the connectors onto the fuel filter and fuel pump. 12. Run the vapor line to the plastic connector on the fuel tank along with the hard line to the fuel canister, which will be mounted later to about where the fuel lines end up in the engine bay.
  • Page 76 2. Place the battery in the battery box and mark the height of the flat top of the battery on the box. 3. Remove the battery and use a ruler and marker to mark a line ” below the point marked previously. Mark this all the way around the box.
  • Page 77: Engine Preparation

    Marking the bolt locations on the box top. 17. Drill ¼” holes through the top of the ¾” tubes only, at the bolt locations marked. 18. Insert the “J” bolts into the tubes so that the threaded part sticks straight up. 19.
  • Page 78: Alternate Drive Pulley

    3. Install the block off plugs (with a ⅜” hex key) in the adapter holes not being used. Use the Teflon tape on the threads of the plugs as you tighten them. Wrap the Teflon tape so it stretches when you attach the plug into the threaded socket.
  • Page 79: Engine/Transmission/Drive Shaft

    Assembling pulley on mount sleeve 5. Install the bolt assembly on the A/C bracket (previously drilled in the disassembly section), using the lock nut provided. 6. Pull the tension pulley back with a pry bar carefully and install the fan belt. If the belt does not fit using this routing, check to see if after-market under-drive pulleys have been fitted on any of the accessories or the crankshaft, if so you may have to also use an after-market belt.
  • Page 80 1. If you are using a TKO transmission, the rear of the transmission needs to be modified. The rear of the transmission needs to be trimmed to fit over the 4” crossmember. The mount hanging off the bottom of the housing is for a torque arm and must be trimmed off level as shown in the picture. Tremec housing with torque arm mount Torque arm mount removed for crossmember clearance NOTE: If you are using a TKO transmission, two ¾”...
  • Page 81 Transmission mount bolted to frame. 3. Lift the engine using the two factory brackets that are on the 5.0 engine (make sure that the brackets are turned the correct way). Sometimes people put these lift brackets on backwards since they are removed when removing the headers and reversing the headers.
  • Page 82 Lowering engine into frame. Friends are helpful here 7. Lower the transmission mount bolts into the rear transmission mount plate on the cross member and then lower the engine onto the frame engine mounts. Make sure that the passenger’s side engine mount hole is installed first, followed by the slotted driver’s side mount.
  • Page 83: Accelerator Cable

    11. Fill the engine with oil. Use the stock dip stick line as a fill level. See Appendix I for specifications and capacities. 12. Before installing the driveshaft, the rear axle should be allowed to hang with the frame being supported and the transmission should be in neutral.
  • Page 84 Ball stud retainer pushed onto cable. 5. Insert the pedal end of the cable into the foot box. 6. Screw on and tighten the ” locknut on the cable sheath inside the foot box using two ½” wrenches. 7. Hold the accelerator pedal up to the mount on the ¾” tube at the front of the foot box. The higher you can mount the pedal the better the pedal will be positioned on your foot.
  • Page 85 Accelerator cable attached to engine. 13. Push the ball stud retainer onto the ball on the bottom of the throttle body. 14. Push/pull the cable into the retainer so that the cable is tight. 15. Tighten the set screw in the retainer using a ”...
  • Page 86 Stop tab on accelerator pedal. 94-95 Fuel Injected Applications Use the accelerator cable without modification. Follow the installation instructions above. Carburated applications 1. Insert the pedal end of the cable into the foot box. 2. Screw on and tighten the ”...
  • Page 87: Clutch Cable

    16. Attach the engine end of the cable sheath to the cable mount on the engine using ⅜” and ” wrenches and push the cable wiper onto the remaining threads. 17. Push the ball stud retainer onto the ball stud. 18.
  • Page 88: Radiator, Hoses & Fan Shroud

    Mass Air Mounting Note: If your engine is a 1989 or newer, follow this procedure for mounting the mass air meter and air filter. 1. Flatten the outer edge of the mounting bracket using a hammer or vise. Use the top OEM hole and mount to the front side of the vertical ¾”...
  • Page 89 3. The fan will be attached to the fan shroud via the mount strips. Position fan assembly in the mouth of the fan shroud so that the fan and shroud are flush. Fan attached to mount strips Mustang fan shroud with kit fan and mount strips 4.
  • Page 90 Mounting the radiator 13. The aluminum nosepieces that form a picture frame-like support for the entire lower edge of the radiator will be installed after the body is in place. 14. Use the corrugated hose provided for the upper and lower radiator hoses to the radiator. Note: The hose reducers reduce the adapter hose from 1.75”...
  • Page 91 Adapter hose pushed onto the tube. 19. Connect the lower radiator hose to the engine. 20. Run the hose next to the 4” main rail and under the steering rack. 21. Route the tube to the radiator. 22. Mark the tube where it needs to be cut so that the tube will just touch the attaching location. 23.
  • Page 92: Wire Harness And Eec-Iv

    Upper radiator tube. Note, the “F” panel would already be riveted in place. 37. When filling the radiator, use the upper hose for coolant filling. Make sure to get as much air out of the system as possible. 38. Connect the fan after the wiring harness has been installed. Wire Harness and EEC-IV ATTENTION: •...
  • Page 93: Rear Harness

    Rear Harness 1. Run rear harness along left side of the frame trunk extensions. 2. Use the inertia cut-off switch as a template and drill two holes in the trunk aluminum on the far corner of the driver’s side. Mount the inertia fuel cut-off switch on the inside. Mustang inertia cut off switch 3.
  • Page 94: Transmission Harness

    Rear trunk wiring harness attached along frame 5. From the battery forward, use some of the black plastic wire loom (included with kit) to cover and protect the rear harness and the battery cable. 6. Replace the cable ties that were used earlier during the battery cable install with the large insulated line clips where possible.
  • Page 95: Headlight Harness

    1. Push the harness plugs through the hole in the driver's side floor aluminum. Harness plug in floor aluminum 2. Run the harness forward into the corner to the ¾” tube at the foot box front. Then go up and along the angled ¾”...
  • Page 96: Dash Harness

    6. Using a 87-93 harness, wire the black electric fan wire to the frame. It serves as the ground. 7. Connect the other electric fan wire to one of the dash toggle switches through the relay provided. The fan is not needed all of the time. The 2-position toggle will serve as your on-off switch. If a thermostat control is desired, you can pick one up at your local auto parts store.
  • Page 97 Dash harness going through laser cut hole 7. The dash harness can then be run on top of the 2”x 2” square tube over to the computer side. Run everything loosely so that final positioning can be done. 8. The starter wires can be hooked up now. There are two different starters that were used and the wires are run differently for each.
  • Page 98 Aluminum fuse panel (87-98 only) mounted to the frame. 10. Mount the headlight and hazard switches using the aluminum pieces (FFR #’s 10566, 10638) in the center of the car just to the left of the transmission front cover. 11. Attach the harness across the 2”x 2” tube, using the insulated line clips. Dash harness in place.
  • Page 99: Engine Harness

    Engine Harness Engine harness. 1. On the passenger’s side, the engine harness begins in the passenger foot box. The computer plug is pushed through the oval shaped hole on the passenger’s foot box top from the engine bay side. 2. Attach the computer to the underside of the top of the passenger foot box using the plastic bracket from the Mustang and the screws provided.
  • Page 100 Engine harness plug mounted in firewall. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 101 Engine harness passing through firewall extension. 5. Use screws provided with kit to mount the vacuum controls and BAP (Barometric Air Pressure) sensor to the firewall. ATTENTION: Note: The BAP sensor is similar to a MAP sensor used on speed density cars except it does not get hooked up to a vacuum source, it is left open to the air.
  • Page 102: Gauge Pod Installation

    Gauge Pod Installation ATTENTION: If you are using aftermarket gauges, skip this section. TOOLS: Wire stripper, crimping tool, electrical tape, wire cutters, Phillips head screw driver, ⅜” socket head and socket wrench, razor knife, spray adhesive, silicone, caulk gun, scraper, tape, marker, ”...
  • Page 103: Aluminum Trunk & Side Walls

    Mustang gauge pod mounted to firewall Note: Mk. II frame shown 11. Use the pod as a template to mark and drill the mounting holes in the aluminum using a ⅛” drill bit. 12. Mount using the screws provided in the kit. Use flat nuts on the back of each screw. A cool way to mount the pod is with the screws coming from the engine bay side and the flat nuts holding the pod.
  • Page 104 Front trunk side wall. 2. The Rear trunk sidewall is mounted to the outside of the frame. Rear trunk side wall. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 105 Trunk front and rear side walls. 3. Place the mid-trunk floor panel (FFR# 10560) over the roll bar tube mounts by arching the panel up in the middle lengthwise and passing it from the cockpit side into the upper trunk. This can be tricky, but take your time and it will fit without damage.
  • Page 106: Emergency Brake Handle And Cables

    7. Apply silicone to the flat surfaces of the frame where the aluminum will contact. 8. Re-install the aluminum panel. 9. Use #8 screws to hold the panel in place. 10. Drill through the aluminum rivet holes into the frame. 11.
  • Page 107 Brake cables in mount bracket. 3. Push the cable through the holes, and snap in the cable retainers. 4. If using 87-92 cables, after the sheath is snapped into the bracket, and run the cable down and under the 4” cross member and up to the “T” cable. The cable runs against the tube.
  • Page 108 Brake cables running under the 4” crossmember. Brake cables attached to the T cable 508-291-3443...
  • Page 109 Emergency Brake Handle 5. Push the captive nuts onto the handle so the screw can be attached from the underside. 6. On 99-04 handles, remove the small bracket and screw that prevents the ratcheting adjustment gear from turning. Ratchet gear stop bracket and screw. 7.
  • Page 110: Transmission Top Cover

    2003 E-brake Handle mounted. 8. Attach the 2-into-1 cable with the “T” connector to the handle if it is not already there. 9. Release the emergency brake handle using the button and make sure it is all the way in the down position.
  • Page 111: Wheels, Tires And Ride Height

    1. Slide the top cover under the rear U-joint cover, then forward and down as much as possible on top of the front wall tab. 2. Use a marker and ruler to mark rivet positions. 3. Remove the panel and silicone where the panel will touch the already mounted panels. 4.
  • Page 112: Checking The Running Gear

    6. Check for shock clearance on brake lines, emergency brake cables, Brake Calipers, frame and control arms. Checking the Running Gear 1. Secure loose and unused wires with cable ties. Look up the function of the wires in your Chilton’s manual before you tape.
  • Page 113: Foot Box Top Cover

    rack. This effectively changes (reducing) your steering travel and turning radius, but it’s a good trick to remember if you use oversize tires or have bought custom wheels (not from us!) and the wheels rub slightly. Foot Box Top Cover ATTENTION: Check for electrical problems now, it is easier to fix a problem now than later.
  • Page 114: Roll Bar Drilling

    Kit driver footbox aluminum Roll Bar Drilling TOOLS: Drill, ” long drill bit, vise grips 1. Assemble the roll bar on the frame. Put the rear leg on, then slide the front hoop on all the way down to the small knobs on the holders. Push the rear leg up onto the front tube. 2.
  • Page 115: Body Cut-Outs

    Roll Bar from inside trunk view. Assembled and bolted in place Body Cut-Outs At this time you should be finished with the rolling chassis. This is an exciting time because the bulk of the real difficult work is behind you. From here on out, the time is really in the details. Take your time with the bodywork.
  • Page 116 Roll bar holes cut out with roll bar installed Gas Filler hole TOOLS: 3.50” hole saw 1. Use the template in appendix A. 2. Cut the large circle out of the template. 3. Center the circle in the gas cap location. 4.
  • Page 117 Connect the two holes with a jig saw to form the windshield slot 3. Repeat on the other side of the body. These ovals will be the slots through which the windshield bars will insert. Side Exhaust Cut-Outs ATTENTION: Use caution when cutting. Go slowly measure twice, and cut once.
  • Page 118 Driver's side exhaust cut out Turn Signal and Tail Light Cut-Outs TOOLS: 1.25”holesaw, ” drill bit, drill. 1. Use a 1.25” hole saw at the turn signal mount location to make the center hole. 2. Use the rubber gasket as a template to mark the locations of the smaller holes. 3.
  • Page 119 Side louver cut out Headlight Cut-Outs TOOLS: Hand jigsaw, drill, marker, tape, ” drill bit. 1. Using a ” drill bit, drill the two holes marked at the headlight mount locations. 2. On the headlight template that follows, cut out the two small holes and the inner solid line circle. Leave the template attached to the paper so that it has extra support.
  • Page 120 Hood Scoop Cut-out TOOLS: Hand jigsaw, ¾” hole saw. A painted hood with the hood scoop cut out. 1. Use a ¾” hole saw in the upper corners of the hood scoop leaving room on the edge slightly more than the thickness of the material.
  • Page 121: Hood Pins

    ATTENTION: This kit is only a collection of parts designed for use primarily as a race car. Applying the license plate bracket does not mean that this vehicle is street legal. Factory Five Racing does not build completed or partially completed street vehicles. If you choose to title, register and operate your kit on public roads, you are responsible for ensuring that the vehicle you build complies with all Federal, Sate and local laws regarding its use.
  • Page 122 Top hood pin plate ready for drilling and riveting 2. Bolt the top mounting plates to the side mounting plates. (Be sure to line the top plate with the front ¾” tube. Top hood pin plate mounted to side plate 3.
  • Page 123 1. Position the rear L-shaped handles (part of the three lock set FFR# 10624) in the holes near the rear of the hood. Point the handles to the rear of the hood. 2. Use a small square file to make room for the tabs on the handles. 3.
  • Page 124: Body Mounting

    10. Using a pen, mark the location of the bracket holes on the hood lip. 11. Remove the bracket and drill the holes. 12. Countersink the holes on the body's hood lip a little by turning a Philips head screwdriver in the hole. 13.
  • Page 125 Lowering a painted body down onto the completed chassis. 4. Raise the body up above the rolling chassis. 5. While holding the rear end of the body above the rear of the chassis, lower the nose section down, making sure that the ”...
  • Page 126: Rear Quick Jack Bumpers

    Slide the nose on first with the body up in the air Rear Quick Jack Bumpers ATTENTION: If you ordered the optional chrome bumper assembly, follow the instructions for these under the optional accessories section near the end of this manual. The quick jack bolts can be installed from the outside of the car so the gas tank does not have to be dropped.
  • Page 127: Front Body Mounts

    TOOLS: ” drill bit, ” hex key, drill, ½” wrench. PARTS: Secondary body fasteners (FFR# 10788). 1. Drill the holes at the points marked on the side of the body. 2. Push the U-nuts onto the side body mount plates. 3.
  • Page 128: Body Prep And Painting

    3. If, after tightening the bolt, the spacer hits the body, move it so that it does not. The mounting plate will bend to accommodate. Washers 6” spacer Frame Quick Jack Body Prep and Painting ATTENTION: The door, hood and trunk panels are molded without flanges (edges), and then they are cut by a robot using a high-speed router that leaves a sharp and unfinished edge.
  • Page 129 Refer to appendix A for a drawing on how to make a wooden buck to hold the body. A body buck diagram is in the appendix. The dimensions do not have to be exact. A rough shape is all that is needed to hold the body.
  • Page 130: Rubber Seal On Aluminum

    impossible to keep looking perfect if you are going to put miles on the car. If the car will sit in a protected garage all its life then yes, spend the $5000.00 on the show car paint. If you are like the rest of the world, try to control the expense of the project.
  • Page 131: Final Body Mounting

    Press on bulb seal on trunk sidewall 2. The top edge of the aluminum cockpit rear wall (FFR# 10823) does not have a rubber seal since it does not go all the way to the body seat, but is covered with the rear lip flange of the body. 3.
  • Page 132 Upper splash panel. 5. Position the lower splash panels in place on top of the upper panel and in front of the floor lip. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 133: Trunk Hinges

    Rear cockpit lower splash panel. 6. Hold the panels in place with #8 screws. 7. Use a marker and ruler to mark the rivet holes on the aluminum panel. 8. Note where the panels touch each other and where they touch the frame. Remove the panels. 9.
  • Page 134: Trunk Latch

    ATTENTION: The hinges are marked left and right on the underside with a little (R) and (L). The hinges will bind and can damage the paint if mounted incorrectly. TOOLS: ⅜”, ½” Wrenches. PARTS: Hood/trunk fasteners (FFR# 10646) 1. Mount the hinges to the trunk lid using the original hardware as installed at the factory. The hinge studs go through the trunk lid and are fastened using washers and lock nuts.
  • Page 135: Side Louvers

    Trunk latch pin mounted in trunk. 4. Pass the pin through pre-drilled hole in the body, then the pin sleeve and on through the aluminum and the " plate on the frame. 5. Put the washer and nut on the pin and tighten with a ⅜” wrench and regular screwdriver. 6.
  • Page 136: Fuel Neck And Gas Cap

    Side louver attached to body. Fuel Neck and Gas Cap ATTENTION: When you’re finished, double check the hose clamps that connect the rubber fuel neck to tank to cap. Previously the fuel neck hole was cut out of the body using the template. In 1999, Ford changed the style of the filler neck, a new Stainless steel neck has been provided for this application.
  • Page 137 87-98 Mustang fuel tank neck with kit extension tube Optional Stainless Steel filler neck 3. Use a hose clamp to attach the fuel neck extension tubing to the lower half of the Mustang filler neck. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 138 Stock fuel tank filler neck with extension Optional Stainless Steel filler neck with extension. 4. Insert the neck back into the tank to prevent gas fume leakage and point the tube towards the ground to prevent anything from falling into the tank. 5.
  • Page 139 Gas cap located to open towards the center of the body. Note the ¼ turn gas cap. 7. Remove the gas cap leaving the rubber gasket. Use a marker through the gasket holes on the Gas cap flange to mark the drill hole locations then remove the gasket. 8.
  • Page 140: Windscreen

    Underside view of installed fuel filler neck extension. Windscreen ATTENTION: Handle the windshield with care. This piece costs close to $645. Store in a safe place. Use Caution while installing the screws into the windshield, they strip the brass strip very easily.
  • Page 141 Inserting the windshield into the body. 3. Line up the windshield mount bars with the frame mount brackets below the body surface. Open up the slots in the body to get the correct angle if necessary. 4. Press the windshield down onto the body so that the rubber along the bottom seals against the body and there are no air gaps.
  • Page 142: Hood Pins

    Inserting the windshield with the base plates in place 11. Fasten the base plates to the body using the enclosed small screws and a matching drill bit to start the hole. Base plate screwed to body. Hood Pins TOOLS: Drill, ”, ”...
  • Page 143: Doors And Hinges

    6. Center the hood in the opening and press down. 7. This should leave a couple of small silicone marks on the underside of the hood. 8. Drill two ” holes in the hood where the marks are located. 9. Raise the height of the posts so that they stick through the hood. 10.
  • Page 144 Latch without cover mounted to door. 5. Bolt the door to the car and do a rough alignment (bolt in the center of the slot) at the hinge end. Top backside of door hinge 508-291-3443...
  • Page 145 Door hinge. 6. Remove the striker bolt from the striker plate. 7. Loosely bolt the striker bolt to the frame. Door striker mounted. Note, seat and carpet are mounted in photo which would not have been done at this time. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 146: Check Straps

    8. Shut the door slowly adjusting the striker to where it lines up with the latch. It may be necessary to shim the striker with washers to get the best alignment. 9. Finish the alignment of the door. Tighten down the striker once you achieve a good fit between the door and striker.
  • Page 147 Under-door side impact protection. 1. Position the under door aluminum pieces. 2. Mark the rivet locations on the aluminum panel. 3. Remove the panel and silicone the frame. 4. Rivet the panel in place. Finished lower under door aluminum. 5. Test fit the upper under door aluminum piece on the frame by pushing down on the aluminum and out so that the curve of the aluminum goes under the door body curve.
  • Page 148: Side View Mirror

    Passenger side upper under door aluminum. Passenger side upper under door aluminum positioned. 6. Remove the panel and silicone the frame. 7. Use the self tapping screws to hold the aluminum in place. 8. Rivet the panel in place. Side View Mirror TOOLS: ½”...
  • Page 149 PARTS: Rear view mirrors/fasteners (FFR# 11066) 1. The side view mirror location must be determined from sitting inside the car, so place one of your seats in the driver’s side. 2. The mirror must be positioned to clear the door when it is fully open. If you have ordered the wind wings, fit them now to the windshield to ensure that they don’t interfere with the mirror.
  • Page 150: Radiator Aluminum

    Standard side view polished mirror installed Radiator Aluminum ATTENTION: Use care when handling aluminum, the edges are sharp and can cut you. TOOLS: Drill, #8 nut driver, ⅛”, ” drill bits, rivet tool, floor jack, marker, ruler, silicone, caulk gun. PARTS: Secondary body fasteners (FFR# 10788), engine bay aluminum (FFR# 10892).
  • Page 151 Radiator nose aluminum mounted 8. Line up the edge of the radiator fins with the edge of the side aluminum. 9. The top angle of the sidepieces will not go all the way down to the top of the quick jack mount. 10.
  • Page 152: Side Exhaust

    14. Insert and attach the radiator floor aluminum using either the screws provided or ⅛” rivets every 2”. Drilling the radiator and aluminum nose panels 15. Apply silicone to the ¾” tubing where it will contact the aluminum sidepieces. 16. Install the sidepieces. The bottom goes on top of the floor aluminum. Hold the pieces in place with a couple of #8 screws.
  • Page 153 Exhaust mount cut in half. 2. Mount the straight pipes to the Mustang headers. The passenger straight pipe is shorter. Aftermarket headers may require “ovaling” the holes on the two-bolt flange. 3. Leave the bolts hand tight in order to locate the side pipes properly. 4.
  • Page 154 Side exhaust mount post and its relative position to the front side body mount bolts Side exhaust mounted on car 8. Tighten the straight pipe bolts to the header. 9. Tighten the straight pipe to side exhaust bolts. 10. Check the alignment of the side exhaust again. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 155: Roll Bar

    11. Using the rear exhaust mount as a guide drill a ” hole through the inner most hole through the 2”x 2” tube. 12. Insert the rubber hanger into the side exhaust mount so that the female threaded part faces the 2”x 2”. 13.
  • Page 156: Rearview Mirror

    Installing the roll bar Rearview Mirror TOOLS: Drill, Philips head screwdriver, ⅛”, ” drill bits, tape measure, marker. PARTS: Rearview mirrors/fasteners (FFR# 11066) 1. Use a tape measure and marker to mark the center of the dash area on the ¾” dash tubing. 2.
  • Page 157: Gauges And Dash

    The rear view mirror, looking at it from the front of the car into the cockpit. Gauges and Dash ATTENTION: • This assembly should be done carefully to avoid damage to the instruments. If you are using aftermarket, this section does not apply. The dash should only be mounted after the body is on since the top of the dash is not designed to mate with the top edge of the ¾”...
  • Page 158 Odometer and trip meters. 3. Cut the gauges apart, using a hacksaw. It is best to put the gauges in a vise facing you and to only use a downward motion, with the hack saw, to avoid tearing the gauge face label. 4.
  • Page 159 1994-1998 6. Drill the scribe marks on the gauges with the ” drill bit. 7. The speedometer and tachometer holes in the dash are designed to work for two different size gauges. You will see a fine laser cut dashed line surrounding the cut out. These lines are at the diameter necessary for the Mustang gauges, as well as Smith, and Autometer Vintage gauges.
  • Page 160 10. If you would like to install the three lights that are included in the kit, the original Roadster’s had them positioned directly over the steering column in a straight line. Use a ½” drill bit for the holes. 11. The blue light will light when the high beams are on. a.
  • Page 161 15. Cover each gauge face with paper so that spray adhesive does not get on the gauge faces. 16. Spray 3M Super 77 adhesive over the front of the clean aluminum dash panel as well as the back surface of the vinyl or leather dash cover. 17.
  • Page 162: Front Wheel Splash Guards

    Connecting the wire extensions from the dash to the gauge pod 31. Hold and center the dash by using the steering shaft and steering hole then adjust the vertical height by raising the dash. Put the collar on the front side of the bearing. Do this after the shaft is through the dash.
  • Page 163: Rear Wheel Splash Guards

    1. Put some of the press-on bulb seal around the outside edge of the aluminum front splash guards (they look like large elephant ears). 2. Use the tin snips to cut the length and a pair of pliers to squeeze the bulb so that it will grip the aluminum.
  • Page 164: Headlight Assemblies

    Rear splash guard mounted. Headlight Assemblies TOOLS: Phillips head screwdriver, drill, ⅛”drill bit, wire strippers, wire cutters, electrical tape, marker, Chilton’s manual. PARTS: Headlamp components (FFR# 11043). 508-291-3443...
  • Page 165 13420 13418 13419 13415 13416 Headlight Fasteners. 1. Insert the grommet in the hole in the side of the bucket. Grommet installed. 2. Push the headlight chrome clip (FFR#13415) onto the bucket bracket. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 166 Chrome ring clip mounted. 3. Screw the two headlight adjustment screws (FFR# 13420) half way into the bucket using a Philips head screwdriver. Adjustment screws installed. 4. Turn retaining ring over and positioned so that one tab is at the top and one is to the right. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 167 Retaining ring. 5. Position the headlight in the retaining ring so that the light is the correct way up and the electrical tabs are as shown below. 6. Screw (FFR# 13418) the retaining ring clips (FFR# 13416) to the retaining ring. See the picture below for the correct locations.
  • Page 168 Pigtail wires and covering pulled through grommet. 9. Slide the retaining ring slots around the adjustment screws. Adjustment screw in slot. 10. Attach the retaining ring to the bucket using the last Philips head screw (FFR# 13419). 508-291-3443...
  • Page 169 Retaining ring screw mounted. 11. Push the rubber gasket on the back of the bucket. 12. Hold a headlight up to the body holes cut earlier and use the bucket holes as a template to mark the screw holes. 13. Drill ⅛” mounting holes. 14.
  • Page 170: Turn Signal Lights

    Turn Signal Lights TOOLS: 8mm deep socket, wire strippers, wire cutters, electrical tape, marker, Chilton’s manual. PARTS: Front turn signals and hardware (FFR# 11044). 1. Mount the light to the body with the provided fasteners and an 8mm deep socket and ratchet. 2.
  • Page 171: License Plate Light And Bracket

    PARTS: Tail-lights and hardware (FFR# 11042). 1. Insert the taillights into the holes made earlier. 2. Use a ” deep well socket and the kit supplied nylon lock-nuts and washers to fasten the lights to the body. 3. Wire the taillights into the Mustang harness. On the Mustang rear wiring harness black is ground. The running lights are brown.
  • Page 172: Seat Installation

    ATTENTION: This kit is only a collection of parts designed for use primarily as a race car. Applying the license plate bracket does not mean that this vehicle is street legal. Factory Five Racing does not build completed or partially completed street vehicles. If you choose to title, register and operate your kit on public roads, you are responsible for ensuring that the vehicle you build complies with all Federal, Sate and local laws regarding its use.
  • Page 173 Seat mounting area on frame. 2. Mark on the floor the location of the 4” round tube, the 2”x 2” tubes, and where the frame steel mount plate is located (between the X tubes under the seat). a. Use a marker and a ruler and measure 2” towards the outside of the car from the inner seat belt mount.
  • Page 174 7. If the seat can not get mounted in four places, reposition the seat. Note: The further apart the mounting locations are, the more solid the seat will feel. 8. Drill ” holes, through the seat frame into the chassis. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 175: Carpet Installation

    9. Remove the seat and drill through the seat frame holes only with a ” drill bit so the screws can pass through the seat easily. 10. Re-align the seat in the cockpit and fasten the seat using an 8mm socket, ratchet and fasteners included with the seats.
  • Page 176 Clean the aluminum cockpit floor before final assembly 4. Use the following for the order of installation for all the carpet except the main floor pieces: Rear cockpit corners Rear cockpit wall Transmission top cover U-joint cover Passenger side footbox outside/front walls Driver side footbox outside/front walls Driver inside/middle/passenger inside walls Driver side dropped floor...
  • Page 177: Seat Harness Installation

    Carpet installed. Seat Harness Installation ATTENTION: These seat belts are frame mounted in three locations. Never drill a hole and attach these to aluminum alone. If you are not wearing a helmet, make sure that the roll bar is padded for adequate rear head protection.
  • Page 178: Emergency Brake Boot Installation

    Attaching harness to frame mounts. 4. Position the brackets at the correct angle before tightening. Use a ¾” socket and ¾” combination wrench to tighten the bolts. 5. The seat belt quick release latch should be on the right side if you are right handed, left if you are a lefty.
  • Page 179: Shifter Installation

    Emergency brake boot installed. Shifter Installation 1. Install the shifter handle onto the transmission neck using the shifter bolts provided. 2. Slide the boot over the shifter to determine where the holes need to be for the screws to hold it in place.
  • Page 180: Nameplate

    Completed interior. You cannot see any of the aluminum. Nameplate Factory Five Racing has included a Nameplate for your kit. This can be engraved at any Trophy or mall engraver. Below is an example of how the nameplate can be engraved with the serial number from the Certificate of Origin which also matches the number welded in the end of the 2”x 3”...
  • Page 181: Finishing Touches

    Finishing Touches Headlight alignment TOOLS: Marker, masking tape, tape measure. Note: • Make sure that the car is at the correct ride height before the alignment procedure is done. Ride height should be 4 ½” at the front and 4 ½” at the back measured to the bottom of the 4” round tube with the normal number of people/weight in the car.
  • Page 182 6. On a piece of masking tape, draw one horizontal line on the wall at a height exactly 2 inches lower than Measurement A. 7. On the line, make vertical marks both to the right and left of the vehicle centerline mark at the distance of Measurement B from the vehicle centerline vertical line.
  • Page 183: Alignment Specifications

    Alignment Specifications Take your new car to an alignment shop and have the car aligned properly before hitting the track. A minor flaw in alignment can cause very “twitchy” handling. Avoid temptation and never drive a car without proper alignment. For a manual steering car use the following specifications: Caster: 3°...
  • Page 184: Chapter 3 - Performance Reference Material And Technical Support

    Chapter 3 - Performance Reference Material and Technical Support 508-291-3443...
  • Page 185: Technical Support

    Technical Support Our success depends on you being able to build your kit without problems or frustration. We are counting on you to build and drive this car and in so doing, provide us with the most important advertising of all. If you have purchased a kit, we want to make sure that you know that you are not alone.
  • Page 186: Wheels

    Provided with your Factory Five Racing Coupe kit is a Manufacturer’s Certificate of Origin. This document records the origin of the vehicle and is not a vehicle title. The component kit that we manufacture has no VIN number.
  • Page 187 If a modern look is what you’re after, you may want to try the 17” Cobra-R or FR style wheels. If using the standard width 1987-93 rear, it is possible to use aftermarket 10.5” wide, 27mm offset wheels. If using a rear end that has been converted to 5-lug using the “Cobra” brake kit use two (4) 5.95” backspace wheels.
  • Page 188: Performance Modifications

    Performance Modifications The following modifications and set-ups fall under the category of getting more horsepower from your engine and making your car perform better. You will find a hundred people a day that will tell you what you’ve got to have. We just want to start you out with the easy modifications that net large returns without large cash outlays or serious changes to the stock motor and drive train.
  • Page 189 Rear end gears Induction/Fuel Injection There are three things an engine needs; air, fuel and spark. If you allow more of each of these into the engine, it will make more power. Throttle Body Stock size: 58mm A 65mm throttle body work well up to 350hp. Ford Motorsport sells a Cobra set-up that includes a 70mm mass air meter, 24 lb.
  • Page 190: Oil Cooler

    Upper Intake The next logical step for breathing is a more free flowing intake manifold. There are a number of intakes available from different companies (e.g. Edelbrock, Trick Flow). Ford also makes a good intake, the cast 1993 Cobra intake from Ford Motorsport division. Heads The 5.0 Mustang aftermarket is full of aluminum and cast iron heads for the small block Ford.
  • Page 191: High Horsepower Transmissions

    block cars. For big block cars, #10 lines are recommended to prevent a drop in oil pressure. High Horsepower Transmissions Stock: T-5 The stock T-5 is good for the stock engine. If the engine is going to have some work done to it then an upgrade to a heavy duty, Ford Motorsport “Z”...
  • Page 192: Rear Suspension

    FFR competition bump steer kit Rear Suspension The standard solid axle rear suspension works well, is low maintenance and is reliable. The next step in performance is the 3-Link upgrade for the solid axle. This is for the more serious driver that goes to more track events and wants to start exploring the limit without giving up the “off the line”...
  • Page 193 • We highly recommend using Porterfield R-4, Carbotech Panther Plus, or Hawk Blue brake pads. Though costly, you will find a significant difference in your cars ability to stop. If these pads are out of your price range, next in line would be Performance Friction Z-Compound pads. 4-lug (4.25”...
  • Page 194 1984 Jeep Cherokee Manual Brakes ” master cylinder (All steel) • The Cobra brakes do not clear most Halibrand style wheels. • When using this setup, the ’94 and newer rear axles have a hub-to-hub distance of 61.125” compared to the ’93 and older rear axles that had a hub-to-hub distance of 59.25”. Wheel offsets would need to be changed accordingly.
  • Page 195: Miscellaneous Brake Information

    Miscellaneous Brake Information • The caliper from either Lincoln will bolt on to the Mustang spindle although the piston is 73mm in diameter, so it would not be well suited for the recommended brake setups above. If this caliper is used, a 1”...
  • Page 196: Helpful Reference Material

    Factory Five Racing customers have successfully installed Kenne Bell, Vortech, and Powerdyne superchargers in their cars. The key to any supercharger installation seems to be the side that the supercharger is hooked up on. Use the ones that mount on the passenger side. The drivers’ side blowers may get in the way of the steering shaft if the blower is too big.
  • Page 197 Chilton Way, Radnor, PA 19089. Available at most automotive parts stores and some bookstores. • . The largest discussion forum for Factory Five Racing Cobra replicas. Also has many vendor links. Helpful • 5.0L Ford Dyno Tests. By Richard Holdener. Published by SA Design, Cartech. 11605 Kost Dam Rd., North Branch, MN 55056.
  • Page 198: A Final Note About Completed Cars And Car Builders

    Factory Five Racing does not build or sell completed or partially completed vehicles. We are aware of a number of performance and hot rod shops that claim to specialize in building race cars and kit cars. We have over the years compiled a list of some of them, which includes parts yards, used parts suppliers, paint and body shops, hot rod assemblers, and race car shops.
  • Page 199: Appendix A - Templates

    Appendix A – Templates 508-291-3443...
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  • Page 211: Appendix B - Donor Parts List

    Appendix B – Donor Parts List 508-291-3443...
  • Page 213 DIFFERENT DONOR VEHICLE OPTIONS We highly recommend NOT using these different donor cars for the average build. This list will help with those parting out individual items, and possibly for those not using all of the donor parts. 1982-1986 8 Donors •...
  • Page 214: Appendix C - Roadster Standard Pack List

    Appendix C – Roadster Standard Pack list 508-291-3443...
  • Page 215 CUSTOMER:_______________________________________________________ BOX 1A PRIMARY CHASSIS COMPONENTS (ROADSTER) Check FFR # Part Name -off Status 10632 ’87-’95 ROADSTER BUILD MANUAL 1.00 11074 ROADSTER IFS COMPONENTS 13819 ‘87-‘04 SPINDLE ADAPTER BRACKET 2.00 14846 SHOCK, FRONT 2.00 (Bilstein#F4BE3A273-T1) 13666 UPPER SPRING SEAT, (HAT) 2.00 13665 LOWER SPRING SEAT (THREADED)
  • Page 219 11024 BOLT, 5/16"-18 x 1" 4.00 11005 WASHER, 5/16" USS 8.00 13963 LOCK NUT, NYLON, 5/16"-18 4.00 10813 HOOD PIN SET 1.00 INCLUDED WITH ABOVE PART# 2 HOOD PINS 2 HOOD PIN PLATES 4 JAM NUTS 8 PAN HEAD SCREWS 2 HOOD PIN CLIP 10553 QUICK JACK BUMPER COMPONENTS...
  • Page 220 10833 2.00 BOLT, 1/2"x 1.25" 10834 2.00 LOCK NUT, NYLON, 1/2"-13 10520 2.00 BOLT, 3/8"x 1.00" 13964 2.00 LOCK NUT, NYLON, 3/8"-16 11080 ALTERNATE DRIVE PULLEY COMPONENTS 10775 PULLEY WHEEL, (TO REPLACE A/C) 1.00 10952 PULLEY SPACER, MACHINED ALUMINUM 1.00 12386 BOLT, ½”-13 x 3.25"...
  • Page 221 1373 BRAKE LINE, 3/16" O.D. x 60" 4.00 1374 BRAKE LINE, 3/16" O.D. x 20" 1.00 1469 BRAKE LINE, 3/16" O.D. x 8” 1.00 1475 FUEL LINE, ¼” O.D. x 60” 2.00 1475 FUEL LINE, 5/16” O.D .x 60” 2.00 END OF BOX 5A BOX 6A MKIII PACKAGED ALUMINUM Check...
  • Page 225 12776 BOLT, 5/16"-18 x 1.5", (OUTSIDE EXHAUST MOUNT) 2.00 11024 BOLT, 5/16"-18 x 1", (OUTSIDE EXHAUST MOUNT) 4.00 13963 LOCK NUT, NYLON, 5/16"-18 8.00 13778 RUBBER EXHAUST MOUNT 2.00 10851 SCREW, #14 x 1 1/2", (RUBBER HANGER TO CHASSIS) 2.00 10829 BOLT, 5/16”-18 x 2.5”, (INSIDE EXHAUST MOUNT TO CHASSIS) 2.00...
  • Page 227: Appendix D - Big Block Instructions

    Appendix D – Big Block Instructions 508-291-3443...
  • Page 228: Installation Instructions

    Part Number: 12401 Revision: D Effective Date: 03/12/03 By/Date: J. CAMIRE Document Type (indicate): ° Bill of Materials ° Drawing (may be attached) ° Specification • Assembly Instructions ° Operating Procedure ° Other Big Block 390/427/428/429/460 Installation Instructions These instructions are designed to supplement the assembly manual where the assembly process is different from the build up using a small block.
  • Page 229 I. Disassembly of the Mustang The following parts will not be required off of the Mustang donor parts list. 1. Engine and T-5 Transmission 2. Motor Mounts 3. Mass Air Sensor 4. Oxygen Sensors 5. Headers 6. Radiator 7. High pressure fuel line 8.
  • Page 230 Fuel line and pressure regulator mounted at rear of engine (For carbureted applications) 3. The electric fuel pump should be mounted to a frame rail as close to the tank as is practical. The 2”x 3” is a good solid location, however, some pumps must be mounted below the pickup so a bracket may have to be made.
  • Page 231 2. The throttle cable from the Mustang donor car can be used with a carburetor and most Holleys come with the correct linkage ball to snap on the cable. Use a universal throttle linkage bracket from Holley or equivalent to hook the cable up to the intake. 3.
  • Page 232 Bellhousing and spacer lined up to mark pivot hole 17. The Driveshaft will also vary in length depending on the transmission you select. Before you have your Driveshaft shortened, measure the distance between the end of the transmission and the rear axle flange with the car at ride height (4¾”...
  • Page 233 Clutch Fork installed awaiting transmission 19. The transmission mount to the crossmember must also be fitted with spacers. Two ¾” spacers need to be fit between the mount and the transmission, which raises the entire assembly. Even with this raise, the rear of the transmission needs to be trimmed to fit over the 4”...
  • Page 234: Suggested Parts

    Torque arm mount removed for crossmember clearance 20. Level the motor using the intake manifold or the back of the bellhousing, this is important in order for the side exhaust to line up correctly with the body as well as for valve cover clearance on the drivers side.
  • Page 235 Engine Ford Motorsport 460 M-6007-C460 (SVO) Intake Manifold 5066/Torker II (Edelbrock) Flat Bottom 9 Quart Oil Pan 13-766 (Canton) Oil Pickup 13-767 (Canton) Starter 86 Ford F350 460 5 Speed Aluminum V Belt Pulleys 1810 (March) Alternator (single wire) SUM-G1667 (Summit) 850 CFM Carburetor 0-4781 (Holley) Transmission...
  • Page 236: Appendix E - 3-Link Instructions

    Appendix E – 3-Link Instructions 508-291-3443...
  • Page 237: Link Rear Suspension

    3 Link Rear Suspension Installation Instructions – Initial Build with Frame Prepared at Factory Parts Included in Kit: 1326 3 LINK HARDWARE 1.00 1083 1/2"-13 x 1.25" BOLT 4.00 1397 1/2" WASHER 10.00 1238 5/8" WASHER 4.00 1238 5/8"-11 NYLON LOCKNUT 2.00 1406 SHOCK SPACER BUSHING, 0.32"...
  • Page 238 1083 1/2"-13 NYLON LOCK NUT 1.00 1414 UPPER LINK KIT 1.00 1321 UPPER LINK TUBE 1.00 1221 1/2"-13 x 3" BOLT 4.00 1221 CLAMP LOCKNUT, 1/2"-20 4.00 1238 JAM NUT, RIGHT HAND THREAD 1.00 1234 ROD END, RIGHT HAND THREAD 1.00 1406 ROD END SPACER, 0.25"...
  • Page 239 1. Remove the traction lock bracket from each side of the Mustang rear-end. Replace with the competition driver’s side and competition passenger’s side bracket using the ½” bolts provided in the kit. You may need a rubber mallet as they are purposely a snug fit. 2.
  • Page 240 Driver's Side Competition Traction-lok bracket 5. Once the hole has been drilled, install the Panhard mount. Tighten all nuts. 6. Install a jam nut on each of the rod ends, remembering that two of them are left hand thread. 7. Thread each rod end into the Panhard bar and upper arm until approximately ¼” of thread is showing between the jam nut and end of the rod end.
  • Page 241 Panhard bar axle mount 9. Attach the Panhard bar to the frame mount. 10. Test fit the two halves of the upper arm mount together. If it is hard to put all of the bolts in the mount holes, put in as many as you can then use a ½” drill bit through the remaining bolt holes. 11.
  • Page 242 508-291-3443...
  • Page 243 13. Install the rod ends with jam nuts in the upper control arm and bolt the arm in place. One end bolts to the axle bracket just installed and the other end to the bracket welded in at the factory on the passenger side of the 2”x 3”...
  • Page 244 Drill through mount into back of frame 15. Bolt the Panhard bar frame mount to the back of the frame using the supplied ½”x 2.5” bolt and locknut. 16. To set the alignment, make sure that your ride height is where you want it, then adjust the pinion angle.
  • Page 245: Appendix F - Independent Rear Suspension

    Appendix F – Independent Rear Suspension 508-291-3443...
  • Page 246 • These instructions use donor Thunderbird parts. The assembly process is similar if using the FFR 14791 IRS Completion Package. • Using the Factory Five Racing Independent Rear Suspension will require a conversion to 5 lug which, if you are not currently using 5 lug will require new wheels.
  • Page 247 • Spindles and attaching hardware • Brakes with flexible lines and mounting brackets • Rear 10.50” brake Rotors. Donor bolts/fasteners needed. (Upper) Spindle attaching bolts. (Lower left) Center Section front mounts. (Lower right) Center Section rear mount bolts. III. Non-Thunderbird parts needed •...
  • Page 248 Rear Brake Pads Stainless braided brake lines 11.65” Rear brake Rotors Rear caliper adapter brackets Tools Needed Drill ” drill Bit ⅜”, ¾”, ” sockets ⅜”, ¾”, ” wrenches ⅜”- ” Brake line box wrench Brake line bender Snap ring pliers Ruler/Tape measure Pliers Flat head Screwdriver...
  • Page 249 When selecting a donor vehicle, there are several important things to look for to avoid problems. Ford used the same IRS set-up for a few different cars. Thunderbirds between 1989 and 1997, Lincoln Mark VIII’s between 1992 and 1999, and Mercury Cougar XR7’s between 1989 and 1992. Only some of the cars have the correct parts that are needed.
  • Page 250 • There are only three differentials that will work in either the Mark VIII or T-bird center section, the stock Supercoupe traction-Lok, an Auburn Gear differential and a Torsen differential. Auburn offers two units that will work. The high performance unit (part # 542079) for standard OE replacement (~$250), and the pro series unit (part # 542080) for better traction and faster engagement (~$350).
  • Page 251 • Rotors Once the spindles have been re-drilled, the rotors must be made to fit the new lug pattern. The easiest way to do this is using a Dremel tool or grinder to oval out the existing stud holes. Mustang 5 lug rotors can not be used as they have a different wheel mount surface to rotor surface distance.
  • Page 252 1. Using the Thunderbird flexible brake line with the “T” connection on it, hold it up to the ¾” tubing on the driver’s side that connects the two 2”x3” frame rails. Mark the location of the mount hole and the locating pin hole on the tube as shown in the picture.
  • Page 253 Brake line fittings 7. Attach the brake line going from the Master Cylinder to the rear brakes to the “T”. 8. Using the 60” brake line provided, make a line to run between the two flexible line mounts. Run the line along the 2”x 3”...
  • Page 254 5. Tighten the rear differential bolts. 6. Fill the differential with 3.25 pints Gear oil and 4oz. Friction modifier. • Lower Control Arm Installation 1. Screw the Jam nuts all the way onto the Rod Ends. 2. Screw the Rod Ends into the lower arms so that there is only ½” total of thread (including the Jam nut) sticking out of the arms.
  • Page 255 Alignment shims in place. 6. Tighten the control arm bolts to spec. Tighten the jam nuts on the rod ends making sure that the rod ends are vertical and have room to articulate as the control arm moves. Koni IRS Coil-Over Shock Assembly TOOLS: Snap ring pliers, ¾”...
  • Page 256 1. If retro fitting the Koni shocks, place the car on jack stands and remove the old shocks and springs. Save all of the fasteners and spacers, they will be reused. 2. Double check the jam nut under the rod end and bump stop to make sure that it is tight. 3.
  • Page 257 6. Slide the rubber bumper about two inches down on the shaft. 7. Put the spring on the shock, then install the spring hat on the shaft end of the shock and push the rubber bumper up against it. 8. Rotate the spring seat back up the sleeve so that the spring pushes the hat tight against the end of the shock.
  • Page 258 Assembled Koni coil-over shock. 10. Position the shock so that the shock body is on top and the rod end is in the triangle of the lower control arm that the shock mount is in. 11. Fasten the shock to the top mount with the fasteners, washers and spacers provided in the kit. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 259 (Left) Lower shock-mounting fasteners/spacers. (Right) Upper shock mounting fasteners/spacers. 12. Fasten the shock to the bottom mount with the fasteners and spacers provided. The longer spacer goes towards the front of the car. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 260 Lower shock mount. 13. Check for clearance on brake lines, emergency brake cables, Brake Calipers, frame and control arm parts. 14. Run zip ties through the holes in the spring hat and around the spring to prevent the spring from becoming unseated.
  • Page 261 Note: On Pin Drive IRS suspensions it may be necessary to move the shock snap ring to the upper groove to allow for correct ride height adjustment depending on the desired ride height and tire height combination. See the picture below: 16.
  • Page 262 2. Attach the shaft end of the Quad shock to the rear quad shock bracket hole on the frame using the washer on the outside of the quad shock as shown in the picture. Quadshock mounted to frame bracket. • Spindle Installation Attention: The caliper is mounted on the rearward side of the spindle.
  • Page 263 • Rear Calipers and Rotors 1. Push the slotted rotor onto the spindle. 2. Attach the caliper to the spindle using the OEM T-Bird bolts. • Emergency Brake Cable Installation 1. Release the emergency brake handle using the button and make sure it is all the way in the down position.
  • Page 264 E-brake cables attached to triangles Emergency brake cable next to mounting bracket. 4. Pull on the “T” connector attached to the emergency brake handle and slide on the cables one at a time. 5. Pull up on the emergency brake handle, so that the automatic tensioning cog can adjust the free play in the lines.
  • Page 265 Old hose slit and covering new hose. Zip tied in place. Final assembly 1. Double check that all of the bolts are tight. 2. Mount your wheels and tires. 3. Lower the car off the jack stands. 4. Set the ride height in the car as specified in the manual 5.
  • Page 266 Initial testing at New Hampshire International Speedway Mark Drag racing the twin turbo/IRS prototype car at Run & Gun 1999. 10.91 seconds at 127mph 508-291-3443...
  • Page 267: Appendix G - Torque Specifications

    Appendix G – Torque specifications 508-291-3443...
  • Page 268: General Bolt Torque Specifications

    General Bolt torque specifications* Thread English Zinc Plated Ft-Lb. ¼ -20 ¼ -28 ⅜ -16 ⅜ -24 ½ -13 ½ -20 ⅝ -11 ⅝ -14 Thread Metric Zinc Plated Ft-Lb. ATTENTION: Use the following specs in order to torque Stainless Bolts.
  • Page 269: Appendix H - Mustang Specifications

    Appendix H – Mustang Specifications 508-291-3443...
  • Page 270 Between 1996 and 1998 Ford made 125,231 GT and 28,708 Cobra versions of the Mustang Between 1999 and 2003 Ford made GT, 5,582 Bullitt, 9,652 Mach 1 and 20,727 Cobra versions of the Mustang. (All information is based on V8 Ford Mustangs from 1979 to 2004) Special Version Mustangs with Specifications Transmissio Year &...
  • Page 271 1983.5 2.95 1.94 1.34 1.00 0.725 2.76 E3ZR-7003-A 1984 2.95 1.94 1.34 1.00 0.625 2.76 E4ZR-7003-DA 1985-89 T-5 3.35 1.93 1.29 1.00 0.675 3.15 E(5,6)ZR-7003-(FA,FB) 1989-93 T-5 3.35 1.99 1.33 1.00 0.675 3.15 F(Z,9,0)ZR-7003-(A,AA) 1994-95 T-5 3.35 1.99 1.33 1.00 0.675 3.15 1995...
  • Page 272 called a hydro-boost system. This system utilized pressurized power steering fluid to assist in pedal pressure. This unit works with FFR kits with an adaptor bracket which comes standard with FFR 96-04 EFI kits (More brake component information can be found in the High Performance Braking Systems section of this Manual).
  • Page 273 1983-98 19 Tooth Pink C0DZ-00017271-B 1983-98 20 Tooth Black C1DZ-00017271-A 1983-98 21 Tooth Red C40Z-00017271-A 1983-98 23 Tooth White E6MS-0017271C-M Mass Air Sensor Mass air sensors are devices used to measure air flow into the engine for the vehicles computer. These started to be used in Mustangs in 1989 and are still being used.
  • Page 274 From 1986 to 1993 the Mustang upper and lower radiator hoses, as well as the firewall heater hoses remained the same, and are a required donor part for FFR 87-93 EFI kits. The bypass hose, engine to thermostat housing hose, and the thermostat to overflow tank hose, are all required donor parts for FFR 96-04 EFI kits.
  • Page 275 Quad shocks are attached between the axle and the chassis of solid axle Mustangs from 1983.5 to 2004 to prevent wheel hop. This is a required donor part for all solid axle FFR kits, and they are also used for independent rear suspension FFR kits.
  • Page 276 F400/R165 F400/R16 1994 F500/R265 F700/R20 1995 F400/R165 F400/R16 F850/R26 F500/R265 F400/R165 F400/R16 1996-98 F500/R265 F500/R47 1999 F450/R210 F800/R75 2000 F450/R210 2001-02 F450/R210 F500/R470* 2003 F450/R210 F600/R600* 2004 F450/R210 *Convertibl F500/R470 Wiring harness With all FFR EFI kits, the donor car wiring harnesses are required. The 87-93 harness has 5 sections: engine, rear, front, dash, and transmission.
  • Page 277: Appendix I - Fluid Specifications And Capacities

    Appendix I - Fluid Specifications and Capacities Engine Oil Type Capacity 10W-30 5.0 qts. 4.6L 5W-30 8.0 qts w/FFR pan Transmission Oil Type T-45 3650 T-56 Mercon/Dexron III Trans. Fluid 2.8 qts. 3.25 qts. 4.0 qts. 2.64 qts. 4.0 qts 8.8 Solid Rear Axle Friction...

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