Factory Five Racing Mk4 Roadster Assembly Manual
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Factory Five Racing Mk4 Roadster Assembly Manual

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R E V I S I O N 3 O , J A N U A R Y 2 0 1 2

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  • Page 1 R E V I S I O N 3 O , J A N U A R Y 2 0 1 2...
  • Page 2  2012 Factory Five Racing Inc. 9 Tow Rd Wareham, MA 02571 Phone 508.291.3443 • Fax 508.291.3883...

  • Page 3: Table Of Contents

    Table of Contents Table of Contents..................ii General Information ..............8 Foreword ..................8 Safety Notice ................. 11 Safety Tips ..................12 How to use This Book ..............13 What You Get ................13 What You Need ................14 Serial Number Identification ............16 Tools List ..................
  • Page 4 CV Axles ....................92 Spindles ....................93 Upper Control arms................. 94 IRS Brakes ....................96 Firewall & Driver Front Footbox Aluminum ........101 Pedal Box ..................103 Clutch Cable Quadrant ................. 106 Master Cylinders ................... 119 Clutch Cable and Firewall Adjuster ............123 Accelerator Pedal ..................
  • Page 5 Clutch Cable ................227 Accelerator Cable ............... 229 87-93 5.0L Fuel Injected Applications........... 229 Carbureted applications ................ 231 Interior Fitment ..................232 Engine Wiring ................233 Cooling System ................236 Fan Mounting ..................236 Radiator Mounting ................. 238 Stainless Radiator Hoses ..............241 Overflow Tank ..................
  • Page 6 Front Quick Jacks ................. 325 Hood Fitment and bumpers ............326 Hood Hinge ................. 329 Hood Handles ................335 Windshield .................. 343 Doors ..................345 Door Latch .................. 349 Trunk ................... 352 Trunk Hinge ..................353 Trunk Latch ................... 356 Body Cut-outs ................
  • Page 7 Rollbar mounting ................... 439 Door and Latch mount ................440 Windshield Mounting ................441 Fuel Filler Neck ................443 Fuel tank access covers .............. 445 Final Trunk Mounting ..............446 Interior Rearview Mirror ............... 448 Side Mirror .................. 450 Light wiring .................. 456 Check straps ................
  • Page 8 High Performance Manual Braking Systems ....... 489 Miscellaneous Brake Information ............489 Superchargers ................489 Seats ................... 490 Helpful Reference Material ............491 Must Reads ................... 491 Helpful ....................491 Catalogs/Parts ..................491 Factory Five Aftermarket ..............491 Tools ..................... 492 Insurance ....................

  • Page 9: General Information

    Chapter General Information Foreword f you are reading this, you are embarking on a mission to build your own car, or at least considering doing so. I wanted to share with you some of my experiences and lessons learned while working with literally thousands of people who have completed this...
  • Page 10 part of the very definition of always trying to go faster. The late Carroll Smith wrote something I really loved that speaks to this point. “There is no magic! The one basic truth of successful racecar preparation bears repeating. There is no magic. There is only logic, common sense, forethought, vast amounts of hard work, and a fanatic dedication to the task at hand”.
  • Page 11 You will join a community of others who have earned their own… and THAT is the story of Factory Five Racing and that is what awaits you in this process.

  • Page 12: Safety Notice

    If, while building, driving or racing this Factory Five Racing kit, should you become injured or die, it will be the result of your own conscious decision and we at Factory Five Racing, Inc., disclaim any responsibility of any kind.

  • Page 13: Safety Tips

    Safety Tips Read the manual. It is at least a good guide and place to start. Don’t take short cuts. Before starting work, make sure you have the proper tools, the required parts, and sufficient space for the job. If you damage any parts, it will probably be because they were either not stored properly or, the wrong tool was used to install them.

  • Page 14: How To Use This Book

    How to use This Book This Assembly manual is intended to help you build your Factory Five Kit. This book will not explain such things as engine or transmission building. A secondary purpose of this book is to use it as reference for owners that want to do maintenance work on their cars or for those that purchase finished cars, to understand their cars better.

  • Page 15: What You Need

    Cooling System/Parts: Electric cooling fan and mounting hardware, aluminum radiator w/cap and in-line filler neck, stainless Steel radiator hose kit incl. adapter kits, fasteners, overflow tank w/cap, hoses, hose clamps, mounting hardware, 185° thermostat switch. Engine/Exhaust: Includes all mounts ready to accept all Ford Engines: Small block, 4.6L, 427/428 FE, 429/460 engines.
  • Page 16 Rear End: 1987-2004 Ford 8.8” rear axle. 1987-1993 width is optimal Paint: Most customers will send out the body and paint work to a professional body shop. Fuel pump: You are responsible for purchasing an external carbureted or fuel injected inline fuel pump. Battery: We recommend a battery sized for a Ford Mustang.

  • Page 17: Serial Number Identification

    Serial Number Identification Factory Five Racing has included a Certificate of Origin along with a Nameplate for your kit. The serial number from the Certificate of Origin matches the number engraved on the 2”x 2” tube going across the car at the front of the cockpit. Below is an example of how the nameplate looks. The VIN number space is provided so that your state issued VIN number can be engraved if you so desire.

  • Page 18: Tools List

    Tools List The following lists detail the tools and supplies that are needed to build your kit. The “helpful” items are not crucial to the assembly but make life easier. Home Depot HUSKY®, Sears CRAFTSMAN®, and Snap-On tools are all guaranteed for life and we’ve found them to be more reliable over discount tools.

  • Page 19: Required Supplies

    Required Supplies Stick with name brand products like Eastwood, 3M, and Duplicolor. The Eastwood brand coatings are great for bringing weathered and oxidized parts up to show quality. PPG brand and DuPont brand paints are excellent. Engine degreaser Silicone Door and window sealant, GE Silicone II or equivalent - 4 tubes Coolant –...
  • Page 20 Pizza and beer for previous line item www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...

  • Page 21: Disassembly Of The Kit

    Chapter Disassembly of the kit www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...

  • Page 22: Unpacking Your Kit

    Unpacking Your Kit Please note that your boxes are numbered, when you read your packing list you will see that next to each assembly there is a number circled. This is the box number that the assembly was packaged in. The kit is packaged in the order that you will be using the parts.
  • Page 23 Unbolt the Quick Jacks and remove the body. Two people can do this but it is much easier with a third person to pull the sides clear of the chassis. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...

  • Page 24: Aluminum Removal

    Aluminum Removal ¼” nut driver, jack stands, marker. Do one panel at a time. Be careful of the sharp aluminum edges, they can cut you. Using a marker outline the underside of each panel where it contacts the chassis. This is done to locate where to drill rivet holes when the panels are permanently mounted later on.
  • Page 25 Mark each panel and take pictures of how the panels fit together (i.e. which is on top). Remove each panel after it has been marked until the chassis is bare. Keep the #8 screws to help with aluminum positioning later during build-up. Use jack-stands to position your frame in your workspace with plenty of room to move things around.

  • Page 26: Chassis Assembly

    Chassis Assembly www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...

  • Page 27: Rivet Spacing Tool

    Rivet Spacing Tool Packaged Aluminum In most cases we use a 3” rivet spacing when mounting aluminum panels to the chassis and a 2” spacing when mounting panel to panel. The rivet spacing tool has this hole spacing marked. The distance from the edge of the tool to the holes is correct to center the rivets on the ¾”...
  • Page 28 Drill the panels using a ” bit then clean the marker lines and labeling off using acetone or brake cleaner. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 29 Apply silicone to the panel or chassis (whichever is easier) in the areas where they will make contact. Use the original #8 screws to remount the panel then drill the ” rivet holes through the panel holes into the chassis. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 30 Rivet the panel in place using ” short rivets, then remove the screws and replace them with rivets. Repeat for the other side. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...

  • Page 31: Front Suspension

    Front Suspension Front lower control arm ⅞” socket, ”, ” wrenches, Torque wrench Front lower control arm assembly Unpack the front lower control arms and hardware. Screw the grease fittings into the arms using a ” wrench. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 32 Mount the lower control arms using the outer set of holes on the chassis using the supplied hardware. The rear bushing mount on the chassis is wider to be able to accept OEM arms so use the large shim washers provided to take up the extra space. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...

  • Page 33: Front Upper Control Arm

    While holding the arm parallel to the ground, torque the bolts to 135-149Nm (100-110 lbft). Front upper control arm Vise, Thread locker, ⅜”, ¾” wrench, ¾” socket, Torque wrench IFS components The bolts and no flange locknuts for the rear bolt location are packed with the spindles. Unpack the upper control arm assembly.
  • Page 34 Put thread locker on the upper balljoint threads. Screw the upper ball joints into the control arms; make sure to screw the ball joints in from opposite sides to give a right and left arm. Tighten the balljoint using the arm for leverage with a Vice holding the ball joint. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 35 Screw the grease fittings in to the ball joints and tighten with a ⅜” wrench. Mount the upper control arms to the chassis with the solid corner facing the front. Use the mount holes that are vertical on the side of the 2”x 3” tube, not the top horizontal ones. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 36 The bolts and lock nuts for the rear control arm mount are packed with the spindles. The locknut without the flange is used on the rear mounting hole. Torque the two bolts that hold the arm to the frame to 135-149Nm (100-110 lbft). www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...

  • Page 37: Adjusting The Upper Control Arm

    Adjusting the upper control Arm Use the diagram below for reference. Slightly loosen the three pivot bolts using a ⅝” and ” wrench. Loosen the jam nuts on both ends of each adjusting tubes using a 1⅛” wrench. Turn the adjusting tubes to lengthen or shorten the arm.
  • Page 38 The front shocks extended measurement is 15.15” center to center. They are 2.50” shorter than the rear shocks Unpack the front shocks, coil-over’s and hardware. Double check the jam nut under the rod end and bump stop to make sure that it is tight. Screw the spring seat down on the sleeve so it is closer to the unthreaded end.
  • Page 39 Slide the rubber bumper about two inches down on the shaft. Put the spring and hat on the shock and rotate the spring seat back up the sleeve so that the spring pushes the hat tight against the end of the shock. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 40 Install the snap ring on the spring hat so that it holds onto the shock end. Make sure that the slot in the snap ring and the slot in the spring hat are not aligned. Pass the shock assembly (with the body of the shock up) through the upper A-arm and attach them to the lower control arm using the 0.43”...
  • Page 41 Check for shock clearance on brake lines, emergency brake cables, brake calipers, frame and axle parts. Check to make sure that the spring is seated correctly on the shock. Run zip ties through the holes in the spring hat and around the spring to prevent the spring from becoming unseated.
  • Page 42 Fasten the shock to the top mount with the fasteners and 0.675” spacers provided and torque both upper and lower mounts to 40 ft-lbs. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...

  • Page 43: Spindles

    Spindles ” socket, Torque wrench, Needle Nose Pliers, Rubber Mallet Spindle Assembly, IFS components. Unpack and lay out the hardware for the spindles assembly. The spindles are marked DSS (Driver Side Spindle) and PSS (Passenger Side Spindle). These refer to the way they are mounted on the FFR Hot Rod. Which is rear steer The FFR Roadster uses these as Front steer so they are mounted opposite, The DSS spindle is mounted on the Passenger side and the PSS spindle is mounted on the Driver side.
  • Page 44 Place the spacer under the castle nut to ensure that the cotter pin is at the correct height. Torque to 106- 149Nm (80-110 lbft) and install the cotter pin. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 45 Attach the upper ball joint to the spindle and torque to 75 ft-lbs and install the cotter pin. The upper ball joint boot will look crushed and out of shape when the car is in the air, this is OK. The boot will seat when the car is on the ground.
  • Page 46 The hub is a snug fit on the spindle and may require a light tap with a soft mallet to get in place. Torque the hub nut to 305-338Nm (225-250 ft-lbs). Using a large socket or a flat head screwdriver and rubber mallet, hit the dust cap onto the hub. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...

  • Page 47: Front Suspension Torque Specs Chart

    Front Suspension Torque Specs Chart Item Lbft Front lower control arm to frame 135-162 100-110 Front lower ball joint to spindle 106-163 80-120 Upper A-arm to frame 135-162 100-110 Upper ball joint to Spindle 95-122 70-90 Spindle hub nut 305-338 225-250 Front Brakes 12mm socket, Ratchet, 16mm wrench, Torque wrench, thread locker...
  • Page 48 Install the caliper slider pins on the caliper using the supplied bolts and a 16mm wrench and 12mm socket. Torque to 23-26 ft/lbs. Install the slider grease boots on the slider pins. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 49 In the supplied hardware bag there are six steel clips that are designed to separate the pads from the caliper. These clips allow the pads to slide on a smooth surface and not wear on the caliper. The four clips that go on the ends of the hanger are different end to end, and must be installed with the long tab facing out.
  • Page 50 www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 51 The two clips that are left go in the center of the caliper with the tab sticking up through the center hole. Insert the clip from the inside of the caliper through the large center hole with the larger tab on the side facing the pistons then press down on the outer part of the clip so the small clip goes through the large hole and clips on.
  • Page 52 Grease the slide pins using the supplied grease. Slide the caliper hanger onto the caliper. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 53 Push the rubber boots over the lip on the caliper bracket to seal the slider bolts correctly. Look at the back side of each brake pad to find the inside pads and the outside pads. The difference is the location of the studs that are on the back of each pad. The studs on the inside pads are out near the ends of the pad, while the studs on the outside pads are near the middle.
  • Page 54 www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 55 Install the brake pads in the Caliper. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 56 Clean the rotor with brake cleaner and push it onto the hub. Install the caliper on the spindle; make sure that the fluid bleeder is at the top of the caliper. Torque the caliper mounting bolts to 130Nm (95 ft-lb). www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 57 www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...

  • Page 58: Solid Axle Rear Suspension

    Solid Axle Rear Suspension Skip to the Independent Rear suspension if not installing a Solid axle. Two bolts are included with the control arms, the other two are included in the kit with the Traction Lok Brackets. Solid Axle Preparation ¾”...
  • Page 59 If using a used rear axle, remove the lower shock mounts and the anti vibration weight under the pinion. Drill the lower control arm mount holes with a ½” drill bit. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 60 Position the Traction Lok brackets on the rear end with the bolts provided (the two short bolts go on the sides). Axle Bracket Driver's Side www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 61 Axle Bracket Passenger Side Temporarily put the lower shock bolt through the traction lock bracket and stock shock hole on the axle. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 62 Tighten the two short bolts. Torque to Ford Specs 75-95 Nm (55-70 lbft). www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...

  • Page 63: Link Rear Suspension

    Attach the lower control arms to the brackets on the axle using the bolt provided. Torque to 101-111Nm (75-82 lb-ft) The lower bolt holes provide more traction than the upper holes. 3 Link Rear Suspension ”, ⅜”, ½” drill bits, ⅝”, ¾”, ”, 1”...
  • Page 64 Upper Link Axle Mount If using the FFR Moser axle skip to the next section since the upper link bracket is welded to the axle. Test fit the two halves of the upper arm mount together. If it is hard to put all of the bolts in the mount holes, put in as many as you can then use a ½”...
  • Page 65 The front attachment of the upper link axle mount attaches to the hole on the flange section of the pumpkin. This hole has some variance and may need to be drilled out from the bottom side using the mount as a guide. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 66 Install a jam nut on each of the rod ends, remembering that two of them are left hand thread. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...

  • Page 67: Upper Link

    Insert the rod ends into the swedged tubes (one is right hand thread and one is left hand thread). The longer tube is the Panhard bar and the shorter one is the upper link. Upper Link Attach the short upper link tube to the axle upper link mount using the ¼” spacers on either side of the rod end.

  • Page 68: Rear Axle

    Rear Axle Have someone help with this step, the rear axle is very heavy and mistakes can result in serious injury. Use a floor jack to position the rear axle assembly under the frame. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 69 Make sure that the rear jack stands are positioned under the 4” round tube as far back as possible to prevent the frame from tipping up once the axle is mounted Do not hold the end of the axle from the bottom of the disc, if the axle falls, the axle can crush your fingers and result in serious injury.
  • Page 70 Attach the lower control arms to the frame mounts. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...

  • Page 71: Rear Coil-Over Shock Assembly

    Jack the rear axle up and attach the upper link to the frame. Rear Coil-Over Shock Assembly Snap ring pliers, ¾” wrench, ¾” socket, ratchet, ruler, marker, hack saw. Roadster/Coupe rear shock kit The rear shocks are pre-valved at the factory in compression and rebound for good street use. The shocks can be adjusted in rebound as per Koni’s instructions if so desired.
  • Page 72 Unpack the rear shocks, coil over’s and hardware. Double check the jam nut under the rod end and bump stop to make sure that it is tight. Screw the spring seat down on the sleeve so it is closer to the unthreaded end. The center high part of the set should be pointed away from the unthreaded end.
  • Page 73 Slide the rubber bumper about two inches down on the shaft. Put the spring on the shock, then install the spring hat on the shaft end of the shock and push the rubber bumper up against it. Rotate the spring seat back up the sleeve so that the spring pushes the hat tight against the end of the shock.
  • Page 74 Use zip ties to hold the spring to the spring hat. Assembled solid axle Koni coil-over shock. Attach the body end of the shock to the upper shock mount using the two equal length (1.09”) spacers. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 75 Jack the rear axle up so the rod end of the shocks can be mounted on the axle through the shock mount hole. Install the kit ½”x 4” bolts are provided for each lower shock mount. From the rear, the bolt goes through the bracket, ⅛”...
  • Page 76 Passenger side Driver Side www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 77 Check for shock clearance on brake lines, emergency brake cables, brake calipers, frame and axle parts. Check to make sure that the spring is seated correctly on the shock. Run zip ties through the holes in the spring hat and around the spring to prevent the spring from becoming unseated.
  • Page 78 www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...

  • Page 79: Panhard Bar Frame Mount

    Panhard Bar Frame mount Attach the Panhard Bar frame mount to the inside of the quad shock brackets, the forward leg will attach to the back of the angled 2”x 3” tube. Do not tighten the quad shock bracket bolts yet. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 80 For the front mount, use a ½” drill bit and drill through the sleeve on the mount. Make sure before drilling that the hole is away from the side of the 2”x 3” tube so that a nut can be attached on the back of the bolt from the bottom of the tube.
  • Page 81 Install the ½”-13 x 2.5” bolt and tighten. Tighten the bolts on the quad shock brackets. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 82 The Panhard bar mounts to the car using the ⅝”x 3” bolts and spacers. Install the Panhard bar to the passenger side traction lock bracket. Three spacers are used in the front (2) 0.375" (FFR# 14064) and (1) 0.25" (FFR# 14065). The rear uses the thin 0.0625" shim (FFR# 13337). It will be necessary to adjust the length some to fit, make sure that you adjust the same amount on both sides.
  • Page 83 Attach the Panhard bar to the frame mount using the spacers provided. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...

  • Page 84: Link Rear Suspension Torque Specs Chart

    There should never be less than ¾” of threads screwed into either the Panhard bar or the upper arm. To set the pinion angle, make sure that your ride height is where you want it, and then adjust the upper arm until the desired angle is reached.

  • Page 85: Irs Center Section

    Unpack the rear suspension box and the IRS completion parts. IRS Center Section Mount the rear center section to the chassis. It installs from the bottom with the driveshaft flange pointing straight up and the axle holes lined up front to back with the chassis. Use one rear bolt through the rear cover to hold it in place.
  • Page 86 Slide the bushing sleeves into the bushings from the top. Through bolt the two front bushings and the remaining rear mount with the mounting hardware and tighten. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...

  • Page 87: Lower Control Arms

    Lower Control Arms Screw the rod ends with jam nuts into the lower control arm. Screw the forward joint in all the way then back out 4 turns. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 88 Mount the lower arms to the chassis with the shock mount hanging down below the arm. The rear bolt can be slip in place with no shims for now. Shim the front bolts using 3 shims on the front side of the rod end on both the left and right arms.

  • Page 89: Irs Rear Coil-Over Shock Assembly

    Tighten the front bolts for both lower control arms. It is also a good idea to snug the rear bolts even though they will be removed again for alignment. IRS Rear Coil-Over Shock Assembly Snap ring pliers, ¾” wrench, ¾” socket, ratchet, ruler, marker, hack saw. Roadster/Coupe rear shock kit The rear shocks are pre-valved at the factory in compression and rebound for good street use.
  • Page 90 Unpack the rear coil-over’s and hardware. Double check the jam nut under the rod end and bump stop to make sure that it is tight. Screw the spring seat down on the sleeve so it is closer to the unthreaded end. The center high part of the set should be pointed away from the unthreaded end.
  • Page 91 Slide the rubber bumper about two inches down on the shaft. Put the spring on the shock, then install the spring hat on the shaft end of the shock and push the rubber bumper up against it. Rotate the spring seat back up the sleeve so that the spring pushes the hat tight against the end of the shock.
  • Page 92 Assembled solid axle Koni coil-over shock. Use zip ties to hold the spring to the spring hat. Mount the coil-over to the chassis mount using the two of the smaller length spacers on either side. The body of the shock goes toward the top. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...

  • Page 93: Cv Axles

    Mount the lower control arm to the coil-over with the remaining large and small spacers. The large spacer goes toward the rear. CV Axles Push the CV joints into the rear axle and let them rest on the lower arm. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...

  • Page 94: Spindles

    Spindles Slide the splined end of the outer CV joint into the hub and mount the spindle to the lower arm. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...

  • Page 95: Upper Control Arms

    Upper Control arms Screw in the rod end and jam nut into the upper arm and attach it to the chassis using a short equal length spacer on either side of the rod end. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 96 Attach the upper arm to the spindle and tighten all of the spindle mounting hardware. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...

  • Page 97: Irs Brakes

    IRS Brakes ¾” wrench, ¾” socket, ratchet, ¾”, ” Hex key, flat head screwdriver, Torque Wrench, Thread locker. The rear brake caliper bracket needs to be loosely attached to the adapter plate with just the upper bolt and spacer. This bolt and all others on the caliper that do not use a locknut should have Loctite or other thread locker applied before installing.
  • Page 98 Put the nuts on the back of the adapter bracket mounting bolts and tighten the bracket to the spindle. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 99 Lift the caliper bracket up and slide the rotor under it and into place. You can use a lug nut to hold it in position. Mount the other caliper bracket bolt and spacer. This bolt is a button head to allow clearance for the e- brake cable.
  • Page 100 Tighten both caliper bracket mounting bolts. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 101 Put the brake pads in place on the rotor and slide the caliper down over the top of them. Make sure you use the correct side caliper and the bleeder screw is at the top. Install the caliper to bracket bolts and tighten. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...

  • Page 102: Firewall & Driver Front Footbox Aluminum

    Firewall & Driver Front Footbox Aluminum Drill, ” drill bit, rivet tool, caulk gun, silicone Firewall and Driver Footbox Front aluminum, Secondary body fasteners. If you are installing a heater/defroster it is much easier to cut the firewall before installing. Refer to those instructions for the template.
  • Page 103 Rivet the firewall in position on the chassis. Mark, drill, and rivet in place the driver’s side footbox front panel, leave the lower section that attaches to the ¾” tube un-siliconed and un-riveted for the inside wall to slip underneath later. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...

  • Page 104: Pedal Box

    Pedal Box ½”, ” sockets, ⅜”, ”, ½”, ” wrenches, Drill, ”, ¼”, ½” Drill bit, ”, ”, ”, ” Hex Keys, Hammer, Vise or 2 pieces of 2 x 4, Razor knife or file or grinder, snap ring pliers. Pedal Components, pedal box hardware.
  • Page 105 Use snap ring pliers to remove one of the retaining clips from the brake pedal pivot sleeve and pull the sleeve to remove the pedal. Place the brake switch mount between the brake pedal mount tabs on the side closest to the brake pedal pivot holes and drill a ”...
  • Page 106 Attach the brake switch mount to the pedal box using the black #8 screw and locknut. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...

  • Page 107: Clutch Cable Quadrant

    Clutch Cable Quadrant Using snap ring pliers, remove one of the retaining clips from the clutch pedal pivot sleeve. Push the pivot sleeve out and remove the pedal and remove the second snap ring from the clutch pedal pivot sleeve. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 108 Using snap ring pliers, attach one of the snap rings to the new longer pivot sleeve provided. Push the pivot sleeve through the clutch quadrant from the left side. If necessary, chase the quadrant hole with a ½” drill bit so that the quadrant can slide on the pivot sleeve. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 109 Put one of the Wilwood pedal washers on the pivot sleeve next to the quadrant. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 110 Remove the snap ring holding the master cylinder mount to the clutch pedal, push the pivot sleeve out and remove the master cylinder mount. Attach the Wilwood pedals to the underside of the mounting bracket using three button head screws and locknuts and the stud.
  • Page 111 The stud should get mounted on the left side next to the clutch pedal pivot sleeve boss. A tap in with a hammer and punch will get the stud to stick while tightening. Attach the Clutch pedal stop mount to the bottom of the pedal box using two ¼” socket head screws, spacers and locknuts.
  • Page 112 Put the remaining thin washer and snap ring on the pivot sleeve. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 113 Insert the 2” aluminum spacer between the quadrant and the clutch pedal lining up the small hole in the Quadrant and the hole in the clutch pedal. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 114 Insert the long ⅜” socket head screw from the quadrant side through the small hole in the Quadrant then the spacer and the clutch pedal, screw on the locknut and tighten. Check that the clutch moves freely and does not contact the stud. If needed file the top of the stud down for clearance.
  • Page 115 Place the pedal box assembly in the drivers footbox. Make sure that the brake pedal goes in front of the ¾” cross tube on the frame. Unpack the pedal box hardware from the secondary chassis components box. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 116 Insert three ⅜” x 1” socket head screws from the pedal box hardware assembly and the one included in this pedal assembly through the front of the footbox and through the pedal box mount. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 117 Push the rear pedal box mount onto the master cylinder mount studs and use a few of the jam nuts from the Wilwood pedal assembly to temporarily hold the rear mount in place. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 118 Tighten two of the front ⅜” screws then use a marker to mark the locations of the rear mount holes on the ¾” tubes. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 119 Loosen the bolts and remove the pedal box assembly from the footbox then use a ¼” drill bit and drill to drill through the ¾” tubes at the locations marked for the rear mount. Reinstall the pedal box assembly in the driver’s footbox; use the ¼”x 1.50” screws from the pedal box fastener assembly with a fender washer next to the head.

  • Page 120: Master Cylinders

    Master Cylinders Place a jam nut from the Wilwood pedals onto each of the master cylinder threaded shafts. Put one of the master cylinders onto one of the brake master cylinder mounts and turn the threaded shaft into the threaded mount on the brake pedal. As a starting point, thread the shaft in until you can see it is flush on the other side of the mount.
  • Page 121 Attach and tighten the locknuts holding the master cylinder to the pedal box then repeat for the other master cylinder. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 122 Tighten all the remaining hardware mounting the pedal box to the chassis. Thread the jam nut onto the ⅜”x 1.25” screw provided in the quadrant box. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 123 From the underside, push the screw through the quadrant pedal stop mount plate and hand tighten the locknut on the screw. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...

  • Page 124: Clutch Cable And Firewall Adjuster

    Clutch Cable and Firewall Adjuster Push the firewall adjuster into the front of the footbox and attach to the front of the pedal box using the screws provided and a ” hex key and an ” wrench. Pull the rubber mount off the end of the clutch cable. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 125 Use a razor knife, file or grinder to remove the plastic barbs from the plastic shaft. Slide the clutch cable boss through the adjuster and loop the cable over the quadrant. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...

  • Page 126: Accelerator Pedal

    Accelerator Pedal ” hex key, ⅜”, ”, ½” wrenches, wire cutter, ¼” drill bit, drill, marker, masking tape. Accelerator cable components, accelerator pedal components, pedal box hardware. The Accelerator cable is designed to be used with all types of engines, carbureted or fuel injected.
  • Page 127 Use one ¼”x ¾” screw and locknut from the pedal box hardware position the accelerator pedal using the top hole in the accelerator pedal mount so that the top of the pedal lines up with the accelerator cable hole so the cable will come out straight. Mark the lower accelerator pedal mount hole then drill the plate to bolt the pedal in place.
  • Page 128 Unpack the throttle cable and cut the cylinder end off. Make sure your cutters are very sharp so as not to fray the cable. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 129 Thread the inner cable through the cable retaining lock nut from the accelerator cable components assembly. Route the cable through the hole in the firewall and slide the sheath back over the cable. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 130 Tighten the cable sheath to the firewall with the retaining nut. A piece of tape on the end of the cable will help prevent it from backing out of the sheath. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...

  • Page 131: Steering Shaft

    Steering Shaft ”, ”, ” hex keys, ½”, ”, 10mm wrenches, marker, drill, ” drill bit, Philips head screwdriver, 15mm deep socket, ratchet. Steering bearings/Hardware, Steering shaft, manual steering rack and adapter. Unpack the steering shaft assembly. Remove the splined adapter from the end of the steering shaft. Slide the new adapter down onto the rack as far as it will go with the set screw loose.
  • Page 132 Loosely mount the flange bearing to the footbox front with the set screw toward the inside of the footbox. Both sides of the flange mount to the front side of the footbox plate. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 133 Loosely mount the top pillow block to the chassis with the set screw toward the rear of the car. Slide the steering shaft into the footbox from the engine bay through the lower bearing. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...

  • Page 134: Steering Rack

    Steering Rack Needle Nose Pliers, ¾” wrench, ¾” socket, Ratchet Steering Rack Assembly, Steering System Hardware The inner Tie Rod Extensions are for stock Power Steering Racks only, not for manual steering racks. Unpack the manual steering rack and the mounting assembly. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 135 Push the bushings and sleeves into the mounting bosses on the rack. Center the steering rack. Line up the steering shaft and adapter and push the rack onto the steering shaft. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 136 Bolt the rack into the frame. It is easier to do the driver side first then swing the passenger side down into the mount. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 137 Screw the grease nipple into the outer tie rod end. Thread the outer tie rod and jam nut 1”-2” down onto the steering rack inner tie rod. Attach the tie rod to the spindle, torque the castle nut to 25 ft-lbs and install the cotter pin. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...

  • Page 138: Upper Steering Shaft

    Use thread locker on all the steering shaft screws that do not have jam nuts and the adapter screws. Upper Steering Shaft ”, ”, ” hex keys, ½” wrench, rubber mallet Steering system hardware Unpack the upper steering shaft from the primary chassis components box. Slide the steering shaft through the upper bearing and start it in the lower shaft.
  • Page 139 Turn the steering shaft so the recessed bosses for the spring washers are facing up and set the washers in place. Then tap the upper shaft down until the upper clip just disappears into the lower shaft. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...

  • Page 140: Fuel Tank

    Tighten the upper and lower bearings. Also tighten the set screw on the upper shaft. Fuel Tank ” and ” deep sockets, ratchet, ” wrench, rubber mallet, hammer, marker, punch or flathead screwdriver, ”, ” hex key, floor jack, friend, WD 40 or other light lubricant, drill, ¼” drill bit. OEM Fuel tank components, Secondary Body Fasteners Assembly, Fuel strap fasteners, fuel line components, fuel lines.
  • Page 141 Unpack the ¾” square plastic end caps from the secondary body fasteners. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 142 Unpack the OEM fuel tank components including the tank and straps. Insert the large rubber filler neck gasket in the side of the tank. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 143 Insert the small rubber vent gasket in the small hole on the top of the tank. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 144 Use a small amount of WD40 to lubricate the inside of the vent gasket and push the white plastic vent down into the gasket. Set the rubber o-ring gaskets in place for the fuel pump pickup. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 145 Slide the pickup down into the tank; you will have to rotate as you go to get the tubes into the sump and line up the tabs on the pick-up and slots on the tank. You can see this looking through the filler neck hole.
  • Page 146 www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 147 With the pickup all the way down slide the mounting collar and tap tightly into place with a punch and hammer. Repeat this process for the level sender. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 148 Slide the filler neck tube into the tank. A little oil on the rubber gasket helps. Slide the retaining bracket down the filler tube and mark its mounting location on the tank. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 149 Move the retainer out of the way and make sure your mark is outside the weld that holds the two tank halves together. Drill a ¼” hole through the tank flange on the mark made. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 150 Use the ¼”bolt and locknut to attach the retainer to the tank. Push the four plastic end caps into the tubes hanging down in front and behind the gas tank. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 151 At the locations on the tank where the tank straps come near the tank, use a pair of pliers and bend the bent parts flat. Hang the fuel tank straps from the rear mount of the chassis using two of the strap fasteners. The longer strap goes on the passenger side.
  • Page 152 Using a jack, raise the tank up into place on the chassis. Make sure the plastic cover is in position below the tank. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 153 Bolt the straps in with the strap fasteners and drop the jack. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...

  • Page 154: Cockpit Aluminum

    Tighten only the driver’s side strap as the passenger one will be removed for aluminum fitment later on. Cockpit Aluminum Drill, ⅛” drill bit, rivet tool, Silicone, caulking gun, #8 self tapping screws, #8 hex nut driver, ruler, marker, Acetone or carburetor cleaner, rags. Packaged aluminum, mounted aluminum, Secondary body fasteners.
  • Page 155 Silicone this panel where it meets the chassis and rivet along the bottom of the 2” square frame crossbar only. Use one of the original screws to temporarily hold it to the other small chassis tube. Drill the tunnel front A-shaped piece where it meets the chassis and silicone and rivet it in place. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 156 Mark and drill the two vertical edges of the passenger footbox inside wall. Silicone and rivet the panel to the front tunnel “A” and the footbox top. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 157 Mark the holes in the passenger footbox front panel upper and outer edges but do not drill yet. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 158 Silicone the panel and install with the temporary screws then drill through both panels and rivet it in place. Silicone the flanges for the passenger footbox floor then install and rivet it in place. The floor sits on top of the flanges from the footbox walls. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 159 Mark and drill all three flanges on the passenger outer footbox top. Silicone the flange between the outer top and the outer wall and attach the two pieces together using the temporary screws. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 160 Silicone the remaining flanges then install the outer wall/top on the footbox with rivets. Make sure the rear edge is flush to the chassis and not caught up on the door hinge before you start riveting. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...

  • Page 161: Passenger Floor

    Passenger Floor Drill the passenger side floor where it was marked to attach to the chassis. Mark the two front flanges but do not drill yet. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 162 Silicone the chassis where the aluminum floor will touch. The main chassis rails are not riveted to but still need a bead of silicone run along the tops. The top edge of the tunnel is not riveted yet but gets silicone as well.
  • Page 163 Drill and rivet the floor in place to the chassis. Use a couple clamps or tape to hold the tunnel top to the tunnel until the silicone sets. Drill, silicone, and rivet the passenger outside wall in place. Leave the rivets out of the rear vertical flange for now.

  • Page 164: Driver Floor

    Driver Floor Drill silicone and install the driver’s footbox floor. The outer flange does not get drilled yet. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 165 Silicone, drill, and install the driver side floor. Install the drivers side outer wall same as the passenger. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 166 The inner wall for the driver side is different for a 4.6L engine than for any of the others. The 4.6 panel is pictured on the left. It has an extra bend about 10” in from the front. Drill, silicone and install the inner footbox wall. The front flange tucks in behind the front wall that was left unriveted.

  • Page 167: U-Joint Cover

    U-Joint Cover Mark the rear tunnel cover where it meets the chassis then silicone and rivet it in place. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...

  • Page 168: Transmission Tunnel Rear Corners

    Transmission Tunnel rear corners The inner rear corner pieces tuck behind the tunnel sides and sit on top of the floor. Mark the rivet spacing on the top edge and silicone and rivet the three flanges that make contact. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...

  • Page 169: Cockpit Rear Corners

    Cockpit rear corners The outer cockpit corners get marked on the bottom flange and where they meet the chassis. Drill silicone and rivet these in place. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...

  • Page 170: Cockpit Rear Wall

    Cockpit rear wall Mark and drill the rear cockpit wall. Silicone the chassis and aluminum flanges where it attaches and rivet it into place. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...

  • Page 171: Fuel System

    Fuel System Tube bender, ”drill bit, drill, rivet tool, marker, tape measure, flat head screwdriver Insulated clip hardware, Fuel line components, ¼”, ” fuel lines, OEM fuel tank components. Unpack the fuel filter and mounting hardware. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 172 Open the hose clamp and slide it through the slots in the mount and start to tighten it back up into a hoop just bigger than the filter. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 173 Clamp the filter in place on the mount with the filter flange oriented as shown. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 174 Attach the short nylon fuel line to the filter and the tank to show where your mounting location must be. The elbow end can attach to either end as shown here; we have attached it to the tank. Hold the filter up to the 2”x 3” chassis tube, mark the holes, then drill and rivet the bracket on using ”...
  • Page 175 The larger ” line is the send fuel line to the engine. If you are running a return system then there is ¼” line provided for that as well. There are barbed fittings provided for both sizes. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 176 The fuel line routing will depend on your style of fuel pump, whether it is in-line, in-tank, or mounted on the engine. The most important things are: To route the lines so that they are protected by the chassis; not close to any heat source or moving parts;...
  • Page 177 From the filter we generally run the lines down the 2”x 3” tube behind the rear cockpit wall and alongside the outside of the main 4” frame tube. Which side you run down may depend on where you are hooking up to your fuel rail, carburetor, or pressure regulator.
  • Page 178 Fasten the lines to the 2”x 2” square cockpit outriggers with the insulated line clips and ” rivets. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...

  • Page 179: Brake System

    Brake System Tube bender, ”, ¼”, ”, ⅝” drill bits, drill, rivet gun, marker, tape measure, razor knife, round file or sand paper, brake fluid. Pedal Components, Insulated clip hardware, Brake line components, ” brake lines, Front caliper/rotor assembly Master Cylinder Unpack the master cylinder reservoir fittings and the reservoir kit from the pedal-box assembly.
  • Page 180 The brake reservoir mounts to the front of the footbox just inside the hood opening. Take the reservoir with cap and line it up so the top is in line with the top of the hood support tube and mark the holes. Make sure your hole location is low enough fit a nut on the inside of the pedal box then drill out with a ¼”...
  • Page 181 Drill a ⅝” hole one inch down from the bottom of the reservoir. This hole is for the fluid line to run through so take extra time with a file and round all the edges making sure there are no burrs left or sharp spots.
  • Page 182 Route the fluid line for the master cylinders through the hole and press onto the bottom of the reservoir. Loosely install the banjo fittings on each master. Make sure there is a crush washer on either side of the fitting. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 183 Route the line from the reservoir to the master cylinders splitting it using the T provided. Make sure that the line cannot get in the way of moving parts, especially the brake pedal! www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...

  • Page 184: Front Flexible Brake Lines

    Use insulated clips from the secondary chassis box or zip ties to hold in place and tighten the banjo fittings on the master cylinders. Front flexible brake lines Unpack the hardware from the brake line components. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 185 The crossed off parts in the picture above are for the stock Mustang Master cylinder and flexible brake lines so are not used. The U-nuts, washers and button head screws are for the e-brake handle mounting. The small black screws are for the e-brake boot Unpack the remaining hardware from the front brake assembly.
  • Page 186 Which side you run down may depend on where you are hooking up to your fuel rail, carburetor, or pressure regulator. We usually run the fuel lines on the passenger side of the car and the brake lines on the driver side of the car. The laser cut stainless brackets from the front brake assembly attach to the chassis right behind the front upper control arms.
  • Page 187 Attach the front brake line to the caliper making sure there is a crush-washer on either side of the fitting and then screw the other end of the line to the fitting on the chassis. Hand tight is fine on all these for now.
  • Page 188 Screw the brake line T fitting into the end of the drivers side brake adapter and tighten. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...

  • Page 189: Hard Brake Lines

    Make sure that your flex lines will not interfere with anything in the suspension, wheels during travel or turning full lock to lock. Torque the front flexible brake line to caliper banjo bolts to 29 ft-lbs. Hard brake lines Run one of the longer 60” brake lines from the T fitting over to the passenger side adapter. The line will bend very easy but be careful not to kink it.
  • Page 190 When you are happy with the routing use the small insulated line clips and ” rivets to hold it in place. Use another of the long 60” brake lines and route from the drivers side adapter back to the master cylinder.
  • Page 191 Mount the line clips and seal with silicone anywhere you pass into the passenger compartment. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 192 Use a long 60” brake line and route from the second master cylinder toward the rear of the car. You can either run down the outside or inside front of the footbox, in this case we have run inside which is cleaner, just be careful to keep the line firmly attached out of the way of the pedals.
  • Page 193 Use a union to attach the remaining 60” brake line. Run the brake line up the back of the 2”x 3” tube. At this point your routing will depend on your rear brakes. 87-93 Mustang solid axles have a single flex line that runs to the middle of the axle then out to the calipers. Newer axles and the FFR rear brakes run the flexible brake lines direct from the chassis to the caliper (the IRS is done like this, there is an extra length of line and a T to allow similar routing to the front.) www.factoryfive.com...
  • Page 194 Using the FFR rear brakes, we attached the flexible brake line mount to the driver side diagonal ¾” tube with the brake line clip. Attach the “T” adapter to the flexible brake line and route the hard brake line coming from the front to the “T”.
  • Page 195 Run a 60” brake line from the “T” up the ¾” tube to the front fuel tank mount tubes and over to the passenger side ¾” tube. An alternative to running it this way would be to run it across the backside of the 2”x 3”...
  • Page 196 Attach the passenger side flexible brake line mount to the ¾” tube and attach the flexible brake line to the bracket with the brake line clip. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 197 Attach the hard brake line to the flexible brake line. When your system is finished being plumbed, go back and check all the fittings for tightness. Fill the system with fluid and bleed being very thorough in checking for leaks. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...

  • Page 198: Banjo Bolt Torque Specs

    Make sure that your flex lines will not interfere with anything in the suspension, wheels during travel or turning full lock to lock. Banjo bolt torque specs Front Brake hose to caliper Banjo bolt – (39Nm) 29lbft Rear brake caliper hose to caliper Banjo bolt – (43Nm) 32lbft Wiring Harness The wiring harness routing and instruction are included with the harness.
  • Page 199 Route the harness according to the instructions. The brake light switch plug in the harness gets cut off and replaced with spade connectors. It is not important which terminal on the switch has which wire. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...

  • Page 200: Trunk Aluminum

    Trunk Aluminum ” drill bit, silicone, rivet gun, caulk gun, ” wrench, ” hex key. Mounted Aluminum, Packaged Aluminum, secondary body fasteners Silicone and rivet in the trunk side panels. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 201 Remove the rear bolt of the passenger side gas tank strap. With the rear taillight harness tied up and secure, silicone and install the lower trunk floor. Silicone and install the lower trunk floor. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 202 Re-install the gas tank strap and tighten. Silicone and install the trunk inner corner pieces. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 203 Silicone and rivet the fuel tank strap patch panel from the packaged aluminum assembly. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 204 Drill and silicone the upper trunk floor. The rivets along the front 2”x 3” tube should be close to the back as possible for drill and rivet gun access. Bend it in the middle to get it into position. Work the corners of the panel down over the roll bar mounts and seat harness tabs a little at a time on each side.

  • Page 205: Battery Mounting And Cable

    Battery Mounting and Cable Drill, 1” hole saw, ”, ¼”, ” drill bits, rivet gun, marker, ” deep socket, ratchet, ½” wrench, ” hex key. Secondary Body fasteners, Battery mounting kit, Insulated clip hardware, misc. electrical components, battery Unpack the Battery mounting kit. Position the battery with mounting bracket in the trunk for mounting.
  • Page 206 Drop the J-bolts in the mounting holes and mark where they hit the trunk floor. Drill the ¼” mounting holes in the floor. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 207 Hook the j-bolts through the floor and bolt the battery down. Hold the j-bolts with a vice grip and be careful not to over tighten and crack or distort the battery. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 208 Remove the powder coating from the small circle in the trunk closer to the ground terminal of your battery. Drill through the center of the circle and put a washer down in the cut out. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 209 Bolt the ground strap to the chassis, the battery terminal is left off for now while the rest of the system is being routed. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 210 Drill out the hole you didn’t use for the ground with a 1” hole saw. Install one of the grommets in the hole. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 211 Route the small end of the batter cable from through the floor from the top and hook to the battery terminal. Attach the battery positive terminal and leave enough slack to be able to remove the terminal easily. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 212 Cover the remaining positive cable that runs underneath the car with the provided conduit to protect it from the elements. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...

  • Page 213: Drivetrain Install

    Drivetrain Install Transmission Prep Hack saw or Reciprocating saw, ¾” socket, ratchet Transmission, Polyurethane engine/transmission mount kit If you are using a Tremec 3550, TKO 500 or, a TKO 600 you will need to trim off the unused mounting boss on the bottom of the case. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...

  • Page 214: Engine Prep

    Trim it flush or just below the pad for the transmission mount. Engine Prep Engine hoist, chain, ¾”, ” sockets, ratchet, extension Engine, Polyurethane engine/transmission mount kit The easiest method to install the drivetrain is with the engine and transmission already bolted together and lowered in as a unit.

  • Page 215: Oil Filter Relocator

    If using a 4.6L or Coyote engine remove the stock oil pan and install a shallow oil pan. Unpack the engine and transmission mounts and attach to the engine but leave the bolts loose enough to be able to wiggle the mounts around for alignment. 87-95 Oil Filter Relocator ⅞”...
  • Page 216 Install the oil filter relocate base plate on the engine. Install the block off plugs (with a ⅜” hex key) in the adapter holes not being used. Use the Teflon tape on the threads of the plugs as you tighten them. Wrap the Teflon tape so it stretches when you attach the plug into the threaded socket.
  • Page 217 Thread the short end of the threaded nipple into the relocator. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 218 Mark the hole locations for the oil filter relocator on the old AC bracket or on the front frame X member (preferred location). If you’re going to mount the relocate bracket on the X member. Drill the mounting holes for the relocator. Make sure to drill this before you install your engine.

  • Page 219: Engine/Transmission Installation

    Engine/Transmission Installation Lower the engine and transmission into place. The more hands you have to help the better. Go very slowly and make sure the transmission tail-shaft is above the rear cross-member. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 220 Install the engine mount to chassis nuts and tighten down all the engine mount hardware. Make sure the alignment pins on the mounts are in the holes on the chassis pads. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...

  • Page 221: Transmission Mount

    Transmission Mount ” hex key, ”, ¾” socket, ratchet, ¾” wrench, floor jack Transmission mount/hardware Unpack the A-frame transmission mount and hardware. Jack the transmission up and mount the a-frame underneath it. Normally this mounts above the frame tabs but can be mounted underneath if extra clearance is needed. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 222 Install the bolts that hold the transmission to the mount and tighten all the hardware on the mount and a- frame. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...

  • Page 223: Driveshaft

    Driveshaft 14mm wrench, thread locker Driveshaft Unpack the driveshaft and slip it up into the rear of the transmission. The most room to do this is usually to hold the shaft just above the center section and come in from the driver’s side. The driveshaft bolts are in the box with the driveshaft and should have thread locker on them already.
  • Page 224 Fit the driveshaft snug against the yoke and install the bolts and tighten. You can put the transmission in gear to stop the driveshaft from turning while you tighten. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...

  • Page 225: Headers And J-Pipes

    Headers and J-pipes ”, ” wrenches, ” socket, ratchet, extension, ” hex key Headers or straight tubes and shorty headers or catalytic convertors and shorty headers Mount up your headers to the engine. If you are using full length headers they bolt in place with the gaskets and hardware provided.
  • Page 226 Also if you are using the cats or j-pipes bolt them to the headers. The shorter pipe will go on the passenger side. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...

  • Page 227: Fuel System

    Fuel System flat head screwdriver Fuel line components, external fuel pressure regulator (if used) Finish running your fuel system by hooking up either to your carburetor or fuel rail. Here we mounted a pressure regulator on the firewall and ran a single line over to the rail. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...

  • Page 228: Clutch Cable

    Clutch Cable Clutch cable, insulated clip hardware Route the clutch cable down to the bellhousing. Using zip ties or insulated clips tie the cable safely away from the headers and the moving steering components. It can be fastened to the engine using the bracket on the cable to the front lower bolt that holds the starter cable just before it leaves the block or, to the lower engine bay ¾”...
  • Page 229 Connect the clutch cable to the bellhousing and the clutch fork. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...

  • Page 230: Accelerator Cable

    Accelerator Cable Accelerator cable components, insulated clip hardware The cable design is set up for a 96-04 4.6L Mustang engine with an OEM pedal but using the supplied ball studs and retainers it can be adapted for all applications. 87-93 5.0L Fuel Injected Applications Run the accelerator cable to its proper position on the engine.
  • Page 231 Push and twist the ball stud retainer onto the end of the cable and attach the ball stud retainer using a ” hex key. Push the ball stud retainer onto the ball on the bottom of the throttle body. Make sure the accelerator cable is tied up and out of the way of moving or hot parts as well. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...

  • Page 232: Carbureted Applications

    Check the idle screw underneath the throttle body to see if the throttle arm is hitting it. If it is not, either loosen the ball stud retainer set screw and readjust the cable or, bend the small tab behind the accelerator pedal until the idle screw hits the throttle arm.

  • Page 233: Interior Fitment

    Push and twist the ball stud retainer onto the end of the cable and attach the ball stud retainer using a ” hex key. Attach the engine end of the cable sheath to the cable mount on the engine using ⅜” and wrenches ”...

  • Page 234: Engine Wiring

    Tighten the accelerator cable locknut. Push the ball stud retainer onto the throttle pedal. While pulling the cable tight, push the accelerator pedal up until it hits the frame and align the ball stud retainer with the cable. Mark on the cable where the retainer ends. Measure ⅜”...
  • Page 235 The hole in the firewall extension can be used to pass wires through from the engine to behind the dash and we often mount the computer inside the cockpit with the wires running through here. There is a cover plate that can be drilled to a smaller hole as well. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 236 Silicone and rivet the dash extension in position. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...

  • Page 237: Cooling System

    Cooling System Marker, Hack saw, Insulated Clip hardware, Drill, ¼” drill bit, ” Hex key, ”, ½” wrenches, ruler, flathead screwdriver. Fan mounting components, Stainless Radiator Hose kit, Roadster cooling system, insulated clip hardware, packaged aluminum Unpack the roadster cooling system assembly. Fan Mounting Unpack the fan and push the four mounting brackets into the angled tab mounts.
  • Page 238 Center the fan on the radiator and mark the brackets to trim off the excess. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...

  • Page 239: Radiator Mounting

    Remove and trim the brackets then bolt the assembly together using the hardware provided. Make sure and tighten the hardware that came pre-installed on the mounts. Radiator Mounting Zip tie the radiator in place on the chassis. The bottom section can just hang by a couple ties looped around the lower outlet and the drain.
  • Page 240 Mark the center of the radiator and the center of the chassis and offset the radiator by ⅝”. Drill the holes to mount the radiator top flange to the two small mounting tubes on the chassis. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 241 Mount the radiator top to the flange with the hardware provided. The bottom stays zip tied for now. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...

  • Page 242: Stainless Radiator Hoses

    Stainless Radiator Hoses Unpack the stainless radiator hose kit and remove the hose connectors from the boxes. Use the smaller sections of tube inside the adapters to fit them to smaller fittings on the radiator and intake. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 243 Then fit the larger adapters over them. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 244 Upper radiator hose Start at the engine and route the tube above the “X” and to the upper radiator hose location. The inline filler neck goes in the upper hose. Mark the tube where it needs to be cut so that the tube will just touch the attaching location. Remove the tube from the vehicle.

  • Page 245: Overflow Tank

    Mark the tube where it needs to be cut so that the tube will just touch the attaching location. Remove the tube/hose assembly from the vehicle. Cut the tube using a hack saw or if available a cut-off wheel. If necessary clean the end up with tin snips or a grinder.
  • Page 246 Bolt the mounting tabs loosely onto the tank so they can be slid around to fit. Pick the mounting location for the tank and mark the holes. Make sure the tank is accessible and visible inside to check the level on the finished car then bolt it in place. Mount the overflow tank to the frame/aluminum.
  • Page 247 Route the overflow hose from the filler to the overflow tank. Make sure you attach the hose to the tube that runs off the bottom of the tank and not the one that extends up into the tank. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 248 Put the radiator cap in place on the filler for now so it doesn’t get lost. If you did not use the hole in the F-panel for your hose routing then silicone and rivet the cover panel in place. For a cleaner look run the rivets you can get to from the engine bay out. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 249 There is a thermostatic fan switch provided to activate the fan. In your engine block or cylinder head locate a coolant access point to install the thermostat switch and thread it in. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...

  • Page 250: Fan Wiring

    Fan Wiring Wire crimp tool Misc. electrical components. Cut the two wires that ground the fan control relay and extend one of them from the relay out to the engine bay and connect to the temp sender. You can use the wire extension from the misc. electrical components.
  • Page 251 When you cut these wires you will need to reconnect the fuel pump relay ground. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...

  • Page 252: Speedometer Sending Unit

    In the dash harness the fan switch lead can now be spliced into the gauge positive feed circuit (12 volts switched positive) so the fan will run only with the ignition on. Connect the fan wires to the harness. Speedometer Sending Unit 11mm deep socket, ratchet, wire crimping tool Speedometer sending unit components, misc.
  • Page 253 Install the gear on the end of the sender and hold it in place with the clip. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 254 Put a little oil on the o-ring and install the sender in your transmission. Use the original bolt to hold the sending unit in place. The plug for the sending unit gets wired into the harness to send a signal to the speedometer. Looking at the plug head on with the flat surface to the left, the green wire from the chassis harness attaches to the top and the gray to the bottom.
  • Page 255 Connect the plug and plug it into the sender. If you are running fuel injection you may also need to send this signal to the computer as well depending on your system. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...

  • Page 256: Emergency Brake

    Emergency Brake E-brake Handle ”, ” hex keys, ”, ½” wrenches, channel lock pliers, WD-40 E-brake handle assembly, brake line components www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 257 www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 258 Unpack the emergency brake handle components. Push a nylon bushing into one side of the fixed gear. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 259 Push the other bushing into the other side of the fixed gear. From the right side of one of the Handle to ratchet mounts, insert the shoulder bolt through the ratchet mount and then the fixed gear. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 260 Put the other ratchet to handle mount on shoulder bolt from the other side of the fixed gear. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 261 Using a ” hex key and ½” wrench, tighten the shoulder bolt lock nut so that the ratchet to handle mount plates are against the bushings but they can still move up and down. Make sure the ratchet to handle mount plate next to the locknut does not get caught on the edge of the shoulder bolt. Slide the lower handle between the ratchet to handle mount plates and bolt the three pieces together using the two ”x 1”...
  • Page 262 Put the ratchet tooth on the long anchor bolt as shown in the picture below. Rotate the fixed gear out of the way and pass the anchor bolt up through the lower handle. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 263 Rotate the ratchet tooth between the handle to ratchet mount plates and align the mount holes. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 264 Push the included spring pin through the ratchet mount plates and the ratchet tooth using a pair of channel lock pliers. Slide the 1” nylon spacer onto the end of the anchor bolt. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 265 There are two nylon spacers included. They provide preload on the spring so there is more force holding the ratchet tooth to the fixed gear and making the release button harder to push. Try using the 1” long spacer first. After the handle is assembled, try the handle and if desired the other ½”...
  • Page 266 Screw the male and female rod ends together. Use a wrench to spread the ears of the ratchet to handle mounts so that the rod end can just slide between them. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 267 Slide the male rod end between the ratchet to handle mount plates and attach it using the ¼” flange head bolt and locknut. Insert a ” carriage bolt into one of the bent mount brackets so the square shoulder is in the square hole.
  • Page 268 Attach the mount brackets to the fixed gear using a ½” wrench. Leave the locknut slightly loose so positioning can be done on the frame later. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 269 Check the fit of the emergency brake cable end in the brake cable clevis. If necessary, use a drill bit and drill or a dremel tool to open up the slot slightly. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 270 Facing the cable slots towards each other, attach one of the cable clevises to each side of the female rod end using the ¼”x 1.50” socket head bolt and locknut. Just start the nut for now, do not tighten it. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 271 Attach the handle to the frame using the ” carriage bolts. Leave the locknuts loose enough so that the mount bracket can still slide on the frame mount. The front mount bracket goes under the frame bracket while the rear goes on top. The fixed gear straddles the frame mount. This picture is shown without aluminum for easier viewing.
  • Page 272 Tighten the mount bracket to fixed gear carriage bolts. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...

  • Page 273: Cables

    Cables Your E-brake cables should be from the same car as your rear brakes. 87-92 Mustang cables or the FFR cables mount to the bracket up near the 2”x 3” tube. 93-04 Mustang cables mount to the bracket near the handle. For 87-92 and FFR cables route them through the upper bracket in the transmission tunnel until the sheath end clicks in place.
  • Page 274 The following pictures are shown without aluminum for easier viewing. For 87-92 and FFR cables route the inner cable down under the chassis 4” crossmember. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...

  • Page 275: Handle And Cable Adjustment

    Handle and Cable Adjustment Remove the cable clevises from the rod end and attach them to the cable ends. Adjust the rod end so that the ¼” bolt goes through the rod end and both clevises and the cable is tight. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 276 Put the locknut back on the ¼” bolt hand tight. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 277 Slowly pull up on the handle to set the brake pads and remove any slack from the brake cables. Release the brake and if necessary remove the ¼” clevis bolt and readjust the rod end so that the cable is tight.
  • Page 278 Reinstall the clevises and ¼” bolt then tighten the bolt so that the clevis ends are closed, this will prevent the cable ends from coming out. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...

  • Page 279: Engine Ground

    Engine Ground Sand paper or grinder bit, ½” socket, ratchet, ” hex key Electrical system completion components Clean the powder coating from the hole in the engine mount. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 280 Bolt the ground strap to the hole and then run the other end to a boss on the block. In this case we used an engine mount bolt. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...

  • Page 281: Axle And Fuel Tank Vents

    Axle and Fuel Tank Vents Razor knife OEM fuel tank components, insulated clip hardware If using the FFR rear axle, attach the ¼” rubber fuel line to the vent tube on the rear axle or center section. Tie the top of the tube up high under the trunk allowing room for the axle to move. Attach the two foot section of ¼”...

  • Page 282: Aluminum Panels

    Aluminum panels Transmission Tunnel Cover Drill, ” drill bit, Silicone, Caulking gun, Rivet gun Roadster Secondary Body Fasteners Components, Packaged Aluminum, mounted aluminum Silicone and install the transmission tunnel top. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 283 Silicone and install the shifter hole cover. Make sure it does not interfere with the movement of the shift lever. Silicone and install the tunnel plug patch panel. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...

  • Page 284: Driver Footbox Side Aluminum

    Driver Footbox Side Aluminum ” drill bit, drill, rivet gun, caulking gun, silicone Mounted aluminum, packaged aluminum, secondary body fasteners Silicone and install the drivers side footbox outer wall. The front flanges tuck in behind the footbox front panel. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 285 Silicone and install the front patch panel. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...

  • Page 286: Seats

    Seats ” drill bit, drill, ” hex key, ½” deep socket, marker Seat mount hardware, seats Unpack the seats and set them in the cockpit. Sit in the seats and locate them in the position you are most comfortable. This is a critical fitment so take your time and make sure you are happy with the location.
  • Page 287 Drill the first hole for the seat mounting and install the bolt. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 288 Drill the remaining holes for mounting the seats and install the bolts. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...

  • Page 289: Nameplate

    ” drill bit, rivet gun, drill Secondary body fasteners, certificate of origin envelope Factory Five Racing has included a Certificate of Origin along with a Nameplate for your kit. The serial number from the Certificate of Origin matches the number engraved on the 2”x 2”...
  • Page 290 Depending on which gauges you are using you may need to open up the dash holes for the tachometer and speedometer. If you need the larger holes the take a tin snip and cut through from the smaller hole to the tracing for the larger one halfway between all the tabs. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 291 Take a pair of pliers and snap the tabs off to get the larger opening. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 292 The ignition switch hole also needs opened up the same way. File the hole smooth and test fit the switch. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 293 Clean the dash off with some brake cleaner or acetone and spray the front surface and the back surface of the dash pad with adhesive. (3M super 77 or super 90 work great). Stick the dash to the pad leaving about an inch border all around the top, the bottom will be bigger for the flange.
  • Page 294 Cut the dash pad in angle shaped cuts every 2” (even closer in the corners) up to about ¼” from the dash. Wrap the dash pad around to the back and glue it. Use some heavy books to hold the pad in place until the adhesive has a chance to dry.
  • Page 295 If you are having trouble getting the pad to stick on the bottom of the dash you can screw the corners down using some of the trim screws provided with the dash hardware. Using a razor knife, cut the gauge holes and switch holes out of the dash pad, cut the holes in from the aluminum about ”.
  • Page 296 Using the razor knife cut a “+” sign pattern into the middle of the steering shaft hole. With the dash lying face down on a clean tabletop, bend the edges of the dash down 1.25” in from the ends so they are at a 45° angle. Install the gauges in the dash.
  • Page 297 Wire the gauges according to the instructions provided with them and with the dash section of the chassis harness. Line the dash up with the hoop on the chassis. The corners of the dash support tube are ” below the top edge of the dash.
  • Page 298 Drill for the dash mounting screws (5 evenly spread) through the dash and chassis with a ” drill bit then drill back through the dash only with a ” bit and screw the dash to the chassis. Push the ends of the dash behind the top of the door hinge and screw through the hinge into the dash end.
  • Page 299 Unpack the dash support panels from the packaged aluminum. Rivet the panels to the chassis and then use the trim screws to attach them to the bottom of the dash. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...

  • Page 300: Steering Wheel

    Install your switches and horn button. Mount the turn signal switch and high low beam switch as well as indicators in the dash. These can be mounted wherever you like, use a ½” drill bit for the holes on both the switches and indicator lights. Steering Wheel Philips head screw driver, 10mm wrench, ”...
  • Page 301 Bolt the steering wheel to the boss. The pattern is not symmetrical so it will only line up in one direction. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 302 Bolt the steering wheel assembly to the steering shaft. Use thread-locker on this bolt. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...

  • Page 303: Rollbar

    Rollbar ½” wrench, ” hex key, ” drill bit, Drill Driver side Rollbar Assembly Unpack the rollbar and mounting hardware. Slide the rear leg of the bar down into the chassis mount. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 304 Slide the main hoop into the chassis mounts and wiggle or tap with a soft mallet until it lines up with the rear leg. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 305 Slide the rear leg up over the mount on the hoop and make sure it comes all the way up flush. Clamp the rear leg up with a pair of vise grips. The front hoop will angle back about 6° or so. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 306 Drill a hole all the way through each of the lower mounts and rollbar main hoop. With the thick tubing and curved surface it is much easier to start small and work your way up to ” drill bit. Insert one of the bolts after drilling each hole to ensure that the rollbar does not move. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 307 Make sure the rear leg is tight up against the main hoop and drill the upper hole. This bolt will be visible so keep this in mind when deciding the orientation. Install the bolt loosely to keep the leg in place.
  • Page 308 Drill the remaining mount and install and tighten all of the bolts. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...

  • Page 309: Rolling Chassis Check

    Rolling Chassis Check Front Suspension Now is a good time to double check all your hardware, make sure your wiring and hoses are away from extreme heat and moving parts, make sure the steering turns freely lock to lock, and make sure your brake flex lines have enough slack for the full range of wheel movement.
  • Page 310 Transmission Fill the transmission with fluid and install the shifter assembly. Leave the shift handle and knob off for now. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 311 Engine Fill the engine with Oil and coolant. Both these fluids should be rechecked after you have started the engine for the first time. Make sure there is some coolant in the overflow to start out, about full is good. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 312 Suspension All of the suspension and steering components that have grease fitting need to be greased. With a grease gun squeeze grease into each fitting on all the control arms, including rear lowers on a slid axle, and tie rods. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...

  • Page 313: Irs Axle Nuts

    IRS Axle Nuts Torque Wrench, 36mm socket IRS components Have a friend sit in the car and step on the brakes. Torque the rear axle nuts to 175 ft-lbs. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...

  • Page 314: Wheels

    Wheels Install and torque your wheels. Make sure they rotate freely and do not interfere with the brake calipers, lines, or any suspension components. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...

  • Page 315: Rattle Patrol

    Rattle Patrol Get the engine up to temperature and check for leaks and make sure the fan is working. After running the car for the first time once coolant is added and while the system is still warm, retighten the hose clamps used on the cooling system. If you need to you can temporarily bolt your side-pipes in place to keep things quieter.

  • Page 316: Footbox Fitment

    • Dash – All gauges working - gauge lights work – indicators and switches working • Brake Bias – if you have space adjust your brakes bias with the balance bar (the set up and adjustment procedure is detailed in the paperwork that came with the pedal-box) Set up your brakes so that the fronts lock up just before the rears.

  • Page 317: Driver Footbox Aluminum

    Different shoes can make a large difference in foot room. Driver Footbox Aluminum Rivet the remaining inner cockpit wall flange to the firewall. Silicone and install the footbox inside top panel. Leave the top flange un-riveted for now; use some clamps or tape to hold it in place.
  • Page 318 Silicone and install the outer footbox top section. Your rolling chassis is now complete! www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 319 www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...

  • Page 320: Body Section

    Chapter Body Section www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...

  • Page 321: Frame Preparation

    The Body and panel mounting are a critical part of how your car will end up looking when it is finished. Whether you are having a body shop paint your car or doing it yourself, the best results will be from fully mounting the body, all the panels and getting them to fit properly and then removing the body for the paint process.
  • Page 322 The rectangular adhesive backed weatherstrip runs along the top of the chassis tubes on either side of the hood opening and the top of the curved trunk hoop. The push-on weather strip needs to run across the top of the firewall and the trunk walls and rear floor. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...

  • Page 323: Mounting The Body

    Mounting the Body Rear Quick Jacks ⅝” wrench, ⅝” socket, ratchet Quick jack bumper components The main locating points for the body are the rear quick jack mounts; these will set the body in the correct position front to back as well as locating the rear half up and down and side to side. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 324 When bolting the body down the first time to do the fitment you can leave the quick jacks off and only use the hardware, this makes it easier to maneuver around and safer when crawling out from under the car. Find the quick Jack hardware that came mounted on the chassis.
  • Page 325 Even with the quick jacks removed, it is still a good idea to wrap the bolts with some rags and duct-tape to save yourself from painful cuts or bruises. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...

  • Page 326: Front Quick Jacks

    Front Quick Jacks ⅝” wrench, ⅝” socket, ratchet Quick jack bumper components The front quick jacks mount the same as the rears except for the angled spacers and rubber backed washers that line up with the nose. You can also mount the body and hardware leaving the quick jacks off for when you are working.

  • Page 327: Hood Fitment And Bumpers

    Hood Fitment and bumpers Orbital sander, air saw, ” drill bit, drill, rivet gun Hood, Secondary body fasteners The hood has been trimmed slightly oversized to allow the panel gaps to be sanded down to fit. Set the hood in place and make sure it will fit the opening in the body, if needed sand or file the edges to allow the panel to just fit with a very small gap all around.
  • Page 328 The bumpers are used to get the hood to the correct plane with the body, you can shave small amounts off either or put washers as shims to fine tune as needed. Put the small bumpers around the edge of the hood opening and try closing the hood. If it is too low try the large bumpers.
  • Page 329 Once you are happy with the alignment you can set the panel gap and radius the edges. An easy way to set the gap is by using a marker. With the panel in place, run a marker around the edge of the panel so that it tubs the body lip all of the way around.

  • Page 330: Hood Hinge

    Repeat this gap procedure later after mounting the doors and the trunk. Hood Hinge ”, ”, ⅝” Drill bits, drill, measuring tape, rivet gun, marker, ” hex key, ½” wrench Hood hinge www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 331 The hood hinge pivot mounts attach to the hood using rivets, the holes are predrilled in the hood liner but you may need to clean them out with a ” drill bit. This is the initial install so you only need a few rivets if you are going to remove the hinge brackets prior to body painting (recommended).
  • Page 332 Press the bronze bushings into the holes in the hinge arms as shown. The short hinge arms are both the same. Drivers side long arm with bushings pressed in Passenger side long arm with bushings pressed in Short arm with bushings pressed in. Attach the hinge arms to the arm support plate as shown using the ⅜”...
  • Page 333 Drivers side arm plate with arms attached Driver side Hinge Assembled. Attach the hinges to the chassis using the carriage bolts, these push in from the outside for easier adjustment. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 334 Leave the bolts loose enough so that the hinge assembly can be positioned to match the hood. Set the hood in place and attach the two arms to the brackets from the underside of the body. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 335 Install the threaded ball studs in the hole on the long hinge arms with the ball pointed toward the outside of the car using a ” locknut. Then snap the gas piston shaft onto the ball. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...

  • Page 336: Hood Handles

    Attach the piston body end to the ball on the hood. Hood Handles ”, ”, ”, ⅝” drill bits, drill, measuring tape, Philips head screwdriver, pliers, marker, 2.5mm hex key, file. Three lock set and fasteners Measure the center of the hood liner rib along the trailing edge of the hood and mark it. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 337 Measure out from the hood center 12” on each side and mark the middle of the hood liner rib for the hood handle location. Drill through the hood and the liner starting with smaller bits working up to a ⅝” hole. The larger bits sometimes work better by running the drill in reverse so they do not tear the fiberglass.
  • Page 338 Remove the hood handles from the three lock set and break off the bottom small tabs with a pair of pliers. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 339 Set the handles in the holes drilled in the hood so that they are lined up squarely with the edge and mark the screw holes on the hood. Drill the holes with a ” bit then screw the handles down using the screws from the set. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 340 Shut the hood and mark the body where the hood handles line up. Open the hood and drill two ” holes in the hood opening recess ¼” on either side of the centerline and ¼” back from the edge of the opening. These are for mounting the hood catch brackets. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 341 The latch brackets are in the handle assembly, center them on the line with the corner edge up against the inner radius of the hood opening and mark the two holes. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 342 Drill the two holes just marked with a ” bit and file the edged of the bracket round with a file or grinder for a nice finish. The four remaining screws are used to hold these brackets in place. They can either be countersunk into the body or used to hold down the hood bumpers to hide them completely.
  • Page 343 Attach the cam wedge to the underside of the hood handles and adjust for tightness using a 2.5mm hex key. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...

  • Page 344: Windshield

    Windshield Philips head screwdriver, marker, ½” drill bit, drill, hack saw, ¾” wrench, ratchet, ¾” socket, friend. Windscreen box. The strips along the sides of the windshield that the screws go into are brass. The brass threads strip easily so take your time and make sure that they thread correctly. Unpack the windshield components and carefully screw the sidebars onto the windscreen.
  • Page 345 Remove the windshield from the car and then remove the sidebars from the windshield. At the marks made on the sidebar, measure and mark the center of the sidebar to give the correct angle adjustment on the windshield. Drill the holes with a ½” bit. Remount the sidebars on the windshield.

  • Page 346: Doors

    Doors ” hex key, marker, ⅝” socket, ratchet, air saw, orbital sander, ” drill bit, drill, rivet gun Door hinges, doors, secondary body fasteners. If you have removed them, remount the door hinges on the chassis. The square nuts sit along side the tube so only one hex wrench is needed for adjustment.
  • Page 347 Position the door in the body to see where it may need to be trimmed to fit the opening. Mark the door and only remove enough material to get it to fit. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 348 Hold or tape the door in position and attach the hinge to the studs. Adjust the door with the hinge until the panel surfaces are lined up with the body. Start at the top of the door and match the curved surfaces. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 349 Once the top of the door is good, you can adjust the bottom of the body in and out to help fit the bottom edge of the door. When you are happy with the fit of the door, rivet the bottom lip of the body to the chassis using the long ”...

  • Page 350: Door Latch

    Door Latch ½” wrench, ” drill bit, drill, Philips head screwdriver, marker, Lithium or silicone grease. Door components Remove the door latch striker from the original mounting bracket and keep only the striker and the washers. The bracket and nut will not be used. Bolt the striker onto the chassis putting enough shims on the striker to bring the base of the striker head flush with the door latch pad when the door is closed.
  • Page 351 Latch the door latch onto the striker and close the door. Adjust the striker if needed to fit the latch to the door cut out. You can also use the door latch spacers to help with this alignment. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 352 With the door lined up and the striker in place, mark and drill the ” holes for the door latch. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...

  • Page 353: Trunk

    Lubricate the moving parts of the latch using Lithium or silicone grease. This will make the latches easier to use and prevent any binding. Bolt everything together to double check fit and operation. The door latches will be tight at first but break in quickly with use.

  • Page 354: Trunk Hinge

    Trunk Hinge ½” wrench, ” hex key Trunk hinge components. Press the bushings into the hinge arms from either side. Use the carriage bolts and ” locknuts to bolt the mounting pads to the arms leaving them just snug so they can be moved without loosening the bolts.
  • Page 355 Hang the hinge arms on the chassis using the shoulder bolts. You do not need the nuts for just doing fitment. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 356 Screw the trunk to the mounting pads also leaving them loose enough that they will just move. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...

  • Page 357: Trunk Latch

    Close the trunk and wiggle it into position then open and tighten the bolts. This may take a little adjustment to get the trunk to sit down right. You can also use some of the rubber bumpers from the hood opening as a temporary means of holding the surfaces level. Trunk Latch ⅜”...
  • Page 358 Screw the trunk latch to the holder with the short #14 screws lining the small square hole with the hole for the handle. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 359 Bolt the handle to the trunk running the bolts through the trunk and the latch mount. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 360 The long bolt that holds the latch pin in place goes through the plastic cap then the body then the sleeve and into the chassis plate. Test fit to make sure the trunk is held snug. If it is loose you can bend the catch with channel lock pliers to snug it down.

  • Page 361: Body Cut-Outs

    Body Cut-outs Fuel filler Drill, ⅛”, ” drill bit, 3½” hole saw or air saw or jig saw, masking tape, scissors. Fuel filler template, Aston Lemans Cap components. Locate the template in the appendix and only cut out around the outside diameter of the circle. Tape the circle in the gas cap recess of the body.
  • Page 362 Use a ⅛” drill bit for all except one of the outer screw holes. Use a ” bit drill for the last small hole. Use a 3½” hole saw for the center opening, drill out the holes for the filler. If you do not have a hole saw this size, you can cut the center circle out of the template and use the remaining template to mark for a jig-saw instead.

  • Page 363: Tail Light

    Tail light Drill, ” drill bit, 1¼” hole saw, file, scissors. Tail light template, Red rear light Use a ” bit to drill the two outer holes for the taillight studs then cut out the center using a 1¼” hole saw.
  • Page 364 Test fit the lights and file the holes to fit if needed. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...

  • Page 365: Turn Signal

    Turn Signal Drill, ” drill bit, 1¼” hole saw, marker. Turn signal template, Amber front turn signal lights Remove the gasket from the turn signal box and use it to center and trace the mounting holes and large center hole for the turn signal. Drill the outer holes with a ”...
  • Page 366 Test fit a light and adjust if needed. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...

  • Page 367: License Plate Light

    This kit is only a collection of parts designed for use primarily as a race car. Applying the license plate bracket does not mean that this vehicle is street legal. Factory Five Racing does not build completed or partially completed street vehicles. If you choose to title, register and operate your kit on public roads, you are responsible for ensuring that the vehicle you build complies with all Federal, Sate and local laws regarding its use.

  • Page 368: Side Exhaust

    Side exhaust Drill, 2½” hole saw, air saw or jig saw. Side exhaust template The pattern for the standard exhaust cut out is pre traced on the body. Using a 2½” hole saw cut the upper two corners of the pattern out. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 369 Using a jig saw cut the remaining straight sections and radius on the lower rear corner. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...

  • Page 370: Headlights

    Headlights Drill, ”, ¼”, ” drill bit, razor knife, masking tape, air saw or jig saw, level. Headlight template, headlight components, Cut out the headlight templates from the back of the manual on the outermost diameter and tape them in the center of the fender with the line level with the ground.
  • Page 371 Drill the two smaller corner holes with a ¼” drill bit to mark their location. Follow this with a ” drill bit. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 372 Using a jig saw, cut the inner hole out of the body, use a larger drill bit to make a hole to start your cut. Test fit the light bucket and rubber gasket making sure that they sit flat and the bucket is centered on the fender.

  • Page 373: Side Louver

    Side louver Drill, 1¼” hole saw, jig saw or air saw, measuring tape, marker Side louver template Use the template and measurements in the picture below to locate the template on the body. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 374 Use a 1¼” hole saw to cut the corners on the traced opening for the side louver. Connect the flush surfaces of the holes with a jig saw. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...

  • Page 375: Hood And Scoop

    Hood and Scoop Drill, ”, ⅜” drill bits, marker, ruler, tape measure, jig saw or air saw, rivet gun. Hood scoop, hood, secondary body fasteners. The scoop needs to be trimmed so that there is an even ¾” flange around the sides and the back and a ¼” flange around the opening.
  • Page 376 On the underside of the hood on the liner, trace the opening for the cut out in the hood 1½” in from the side and rear edges and 4” back from the front edge of the scoop recess. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 377 Use a larger drill bit to start the blade for the saw then cut the opening in the hood using a jig saw. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 378 To locate the scoop, measure from the leading edged of the hood back 19” on either side of the opening and draw a straight line across the width of the hood. On the line just marked, measure in 8” from each of the outside edges of the hood and mark on the line. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 379 Center the scoop using the straight edge and two marks. Double check by measuring in from the rear edges of the hood to make sure that it is centered. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 380 Drill two of the rivet holes on opposite sides for the scoop and install a couple rivets to hold the panels together. Drill out the remaining rivet holes and then separate the two pieces for painting. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...

  • Page 381: Roll Bar

    Roll bar Drill, 1¾” hole saw, air saw or jig saw, file 1.50” driver side Rollbar. The roll bar holes are marked on the body and need to be cut out using a 1¾” holes saw. The front two holes are cut centering the saw in the marked circle and drilling vertically to match the angle the bar comes through the body.
  • Page 382 To cut the rear roll bar leg, make 2 holes overlapping so that they form the right length. Use the same 1¾” hole saw centered in the front of the traced opening and with the drill leaning at a 45° angle toward the inner front leg.
  • Page 383 The rear of the hole is then finished using the whole saw vertically. Trim the remaining flash on the opening with a file or jig saw and test fit the bar. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...

  • Page 384: Final Prep

    Final Prep Sand paper All of the exterior body accessories, Windshield and side exhaust must be mounted to the car to obtain the correct body location in order to create the correct gaps and opening sizes on the car before it is painted. Refer to appendix A for a drawing on how to make a wooden buck to hold the body.

  • Page 385: Body Painting

    • Brake Duct openings • Main radiator opening • Oil cooler opening • Hood Opening • Roll Bar cut outs • Door openings • Cockpit edges The curled under side body edges are not as visible but just taking a little time here to get the lines straight and a small radius makes for a much nicer finish as well.

  • Page 386: Final Assembly

    Chapter Final Assembly www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...

  • Page 387: Radiator Aluminum

    Radiator Aluminum Drill, ¼” Nut driver, ⅛”, ” drill bits, rivet tool, floor jack, marker, ruler, silicone, caulk gun. Secondary body fasteners, engine bay aluminum. Use care when handling aluminum, the edges are sharp and can cut you. The radiator and its plumbing were installed before the body was mounted. The radiator is being held up at the bottom by a couple of zip ties through a quick jack bumper hole.
  • Page 388 Position the radiator floor aluminum so that it goes under the body lip and goes across to the bottom of the radiator. Clamp the floor piece to the nose. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 389 Attach the radiator floor piece to the bottom of the radiator with a couple of self-tapping screws on the marks or use a couple of clamps. Drill, silicone and rivet the radiator floor aluminum to the bottom radiator lip. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 390 Silicone and rivet the aluminum to the nose lip using three ” rivets. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 391 Pass the radiator sidepieces through the nose and put them on their respective sides. Trimming aluminum may be necessary if you use the press-on rubber bulb seal weather- stripping. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 392 Line up the edge of the radiator fins with the edge of the side aluminum and attach the piece to the ¾” tube using a self tapping screw. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 393 From the backside of the panel, mark the location of the ¾” tube. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 394 If using the press on bulb weatherstrip, make sure there is ⅜”-½” of gap between the edge of the panel and the body. Remove the side panel then measure, mark, drill rivet locations where the ¾” tube is located and press on the bulb weatherstrip.
  • Page 395 www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...

  • Page 396: Carpet

    Repeat this procedure for the driver side panel. Carpet Razor knife, silicone, caulking gun, spray glue, brake cleaner or acetone. Interior trim/carpet ® The adhesive used to hold the carpet down is the same as we used on the dash pad. 3M Super77™...
  • Page 397 Double check the aluminum edges and corners for any areas that look like they are not sealed. Run a small bead of silicone in these corners, seams and around the slots where the seat harness mounts poke through. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 398 Start with the large rear cockpit wall of carpet. Position it before gluing so you understand where it will go then, apply the adhesive and glue it into position. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 399 The cockpit rear corners go on next. Be very careful spraying the adhesive once some carpet is mounted. Guard the carpet with masking tape or cardboard. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 400 Test fit the rear and main tunnel covers. While you are fitting cut the handle opening for the e-brake and shifter. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 401 Glues down the tunnel top. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 402 The tunnel rear section is slightly oversized to make sure it can cover small variances in the way the other pieces lay down. Trim it for a perfect fit then glue it in place. Fit and glue the passenger outside footbox wall carpet section. The carpet tucks in behind the footbox protection tube.
  • Page 403 Fit and glue the driver’s side footbox outer carpet section. This piece also tucks behind the footbox tubing. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 404 Fit and glue the tunnel/firewall section of carpet. Fit and glue the lower floor sections. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 405 Fit and glue the under door sections. The floors are the last pieces to go in. They may also need a slight trim for the best fit. Glue them down and vacuum the carpet prior to the seats going in. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...

  • Page 406: Seats Harness Lap Belt

    Seats Harness lap belt ¾” wrench, ¾” socket, ½” drill bit, drill, ratchet Seat Harness/Fasteners Unpack the seat harnesses and hardware. Drill through the inner lap belt mount into the tunnel with a ½ in. bit. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 407 Bolt the lap harness in position with the inner most nut inside the transmission tunnel. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...

  • Page 408: Emergency Brake Boot

    Emergency Brake Boot ” drill bit, drill, Philips head screwdriver Interior Trim/Carpet Unpack the e-brake boot and a few of trim screws. Fit the boot over the handle and check the handle actuation. When you are in a position where the boot clears the handle movement drill through the material into the tunnel and screw it into place.

  • Page 409: Seat Final Install

    Seat Final Install Drill back up through your seat mounting holes to put holes through the carpet and re-mount the seats. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...

  • Page 410: Seat Harness Shoulder Belts

    Seat Harness Shoulder Belts Razor knife, ¾” wrench, ¾” socket, ½” drill bit, drill, ratchet Seat Harness/Fasteners, Misc. electrical components Use some of the serrated grommeting from the electrical assembly to cover the edge where the harness passes through. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 411 Cut the carpet with a single slit to allow the harness to pass through. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 412 Remove the mounting tab and slider from the harness. Slide the harness through the rear wall from the front. The shoulder harnesses are side specific so make sure you have the sides correct. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 413 Replace the slider and mounting tab and bolt the tab to the chassis. Adjust the harnesses to where they fit you comfortably. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...

  • Page 414: Shifter Handle And Boot

    Shifter Handle and Boot ½” wrench, ” drill bit, drill, Philips head screwdriver, marker, thread lock Shifter handle components Unpack the shift handle and bolt it to the transmission. These bolts have a tendency to rattle loose so use a little thread locker. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 415 Push the boot and trim rind down over the handle so it sits flush on the tunnel. Using a silver marker or white paint marker, mark your screw holes on the tunnel. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 416 Remove the boot and drill ” holes in the spots you marked. Re-install the boot and screw down to the tunnel with the countersunk screws. A small screwdriver can help to locate the holes. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 417 Screw the two piece knob onto the shift handle and tighten so the shift pattern is in the correct orientation. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...

  • Page 418: Headlights

    Headlights Philips head screwdriver Headlight components Unpack the headlight mounting assembly. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 419 13420 13418 13419 13415 13416 Headlight Fasteners. Screw the adjuster screws about halfway into the buckets. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 420 Push the grommet into the side of the bucket. Run the light plug harness through from the inside www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 421 Line up the headlight with the bucket to get the proper orientation. The bottom of the bucket is the only screw boss that comes in from the side and the writing on the headlight should be right side up. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 422 Screw the mounting flange onto the light with the 3 small tabs and small screws. The tabs are bent to fit around the bosses on the light. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 423 Put the gasket on the bucket with the adjuster bosses poking through the 2 larger holes. Screw the bucket to the body using the screw that came in the mounting assembly. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 424 Plug the light into the connector and mount the bulb to the bucket. The slotted parts of the mounting flange go onto the adjusting screws between the screw head and flange. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 425 Push the spring clip onto the boss near the bottom of the bucket. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...

  • Page 426: Turn Signals

    Mount the trim ring hooking it over the bucket on the top and screwing it into the bottom using the countersunk screw. Turn Signals ” deep socket, ratchet Amber front turn signal lights Mount the turn signals to the body being careful not to over tighten the locknuts. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...

  • Page 427: Tail Lights

    Tail lights ” deep socket, ratchet Red rear lights Mount the taillights, also being careful with the mounting hardware. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...

  • Page 428: Gas Cap

    Gas Cap Philips head screwdriver Aston Lemans Cap Unpack the fuel cap and mounting hardware. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 429 Put the gasket on the bottom surface of the cap. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 430 Set the cap on the body and screw in using 5 of the countersunk screws. Leave the inside most forward hole open. The one remaining cap fastener is a longer screw and nut used for the ground strap, screw it in from the top then put the ground strap washer and nut on from underneath.

  • Page 431: Side Louvers

    Side Louvers Silicone, caulking gun, duct tape Side Louvers Unpack the side louvers. Holding the top and bottom flanges, bend the fins in so they are roughly at a 45° angle. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 432 Hold them up to the body to see how they fit. They are designed to allow air to exit the engine bay so the flanges point from the rear edge in. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 433 Apply silicone down the top and bottom flange on the side facing the body. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...

  • Page 434: Weatherstripping

    Line up the louvers and tape them in place to hold them until the silicone dries. Weatherstripping Razor knife, tin snips Secondary body fasteners If you haven’t already run the bulb seal up the sides and rear of the trunk and bolt the trunk hinges back in place and tighten.
  • Page 435 Cut out a section of the C channel where the hoop comes across to allow one piece to run the whole way. If you removed any of the other weatherstrip on the firewall or hood support tubes replace it now. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 436 When you are ready to mount the body, unpack the expanding foam and run a small section up the outside of each footbox just forward of the door hinge. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...

  • Page 437: Final Body Mounting

    Final Body Mounting Fit the body back on the chassis. Be very careful with the sides and slowly work it down into position. Pull the sides out around the chassis and make sure the body covers the rear cockpit wall and top of he dash without pulling the material off either.

  • Page 438: Hood Mounting

    Re-mount the nose with the front quick jacks. Hood mounting Rivet the scoop back in position on the hood. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 439 Re-install the hood latch plates and replace the bumpers you used before on the body to line up the hood. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...

  • Page 440: Rollbar Mounting

    Re-Install the hood and latches. Rollbar mounting Re-mount the roll bar through the body. Make sure that the rear leg is in the correct orientation so that your holes will line up. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...

  • Page 441: Door And Latch Mount

    Door and Latch mount Reattach the doors and latches. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...

  • Page 442: Windshield Mounting

    Once you are happy with the door fit install the covers on the door latches. Windshield Mounting Position the windshield trim plates with gaskets on the body so that the notch faces the inside front corner. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 443 Re-mount the windshield. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...

  • Page 444: Fuel Filler Neck

    Fuel Filler Neck Razor knife, ⅜” socket, ratchet, ” drill bit, drill Aston Lemans Cap components Ground the fuel filler strap to the chassis using the screw that came in the cap hardware. This wire prevents any static charge build-up and must be used. Unpack the fuel filler neck hose and cut a 5”...
  • Page 445 Install the hose between the filler neck and gas cap with the clamps that came in the cap hardware. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...

  • Page 446: Fuel Tank Access Covers

    Screw the plastic gas cap into the Aston Lemans style cap. Fuel tank access covers ” drill bit, drill, rivet gun, silicone, caulking gun Secondary body fasteners, packaged aluminum Silicone and install the patch panels in the trunk that cover the fuel sender and pickup access holes. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...

  • Page 447: Final Trunk Mounting

    Final Trunk Mounting Tin snips, ” hex key Secondary body fasteners Push the side mount weatherstrip on the trunk opening starting at the bottom next to the latch pin hole and working all the way around just leaving a small gap for the head of the latch pin bolt. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 448 Re-mount the license plate light and trunk handle. Re-mount the trunk to the hinges and re install the latch pin. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...

  • Page 449: Interior Rearview Mirror

    Interior Rearview Mirror Philips head screwdriver, drill, ”, ” drill bits, marker, measuring tape Rearview mirrors/fasteners Use a tape measure and marker to mark the center of the dash area about ¼” in from the body lip. Line up the rearview mirror with the center mark and mark the holes in the body. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 450 Sit in the seat and make sure you are comfortable with the position. Drill the body with a ” bit and screw the mirror in position. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...

  • Page 451: Side Mirror

    Side Mirror Philips head screwdriver, drill, ”, ” drill bits, marker, ⅜” wrench. Rearview mirrors/fasteners. Only a driver side mirror is included with the kit. A passenger side one is available if desired. Unpack the side mirror assembly. Disassemble the mirror, removing the large base from the stand. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 452 The large base is replaced by the smaller insert and gasket. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 453 Temporarily bolt the mirror back together with the small insert. Sit in the seat to find a good location you can see it from and see clearly over the rear fender. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 454 Mark the location and use the gasket to locate and drill the mounting holes. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 455 Disassemble the mirror and bolt the mounting insert with mounting bolt and the gasket to the body. Slide the stand-off and upper gasket down the bolt and onto the mounting bracket. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 456 Bolt the main body of the mirror to the mounting stand-off. Screw the mirror into the body and adjust it before tightening. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...

  • Page 457: Light Wiring

    Light wiring Wire strippers, wire crimpers, chassis harness instructions Headlight components, amber front turn signal lights, rear lights, license plate light, electrical system completion components Wire in the headlights to the chassis harness. On the headlight, there are three wires, black is ground, white is high beam and the red is low beam.

  • Page 458: Check Straps

    Wire the taillights according to the wiring harness instructions. We normally run the upper lights in the rear for brakes and the lower for turn signals. Wire the license plate light. Check straps ” drill bit, drill, rivet tool, marker Secondary body fasteners, door components Unpack the door check-straps.
  • Page 459 Rivet the check-strap to the door hinge using a ” rivet. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 460 Open a door wide but not enough so that the door hits the body. The straps will stretch slightly over time so allow enough room for this by closing the door slightly from the maximum. While holding the door open, pull the check strap tight and mark the location of the mount holes on the inside face of the 2”x 2”...

  • Page 461: Under Door Aluminum

    Under door Aluminum Drill, ” drill bit, rivet tool, silicone, caulking gun, spray glue, tin snips. Packaged aluminum, interior trim/carpet, secondary body fasteners Unpack the under door aluminum panels. They are shaped to fit around the bottom of the door with flanges to mount to the chassis.
  • Page 462 Test fit and then glue in the remaining carpet sections under the doors. Cut a section of the large C channel weatherstrip to fit from the bottom of the door hinge to the door latch and push it in place over the body, aluminum and carpet to finish the edges off. The barb side goes towards the inside of the car.

  • Page 463: Steering Wheel Center Section

    Steering wheel center section WD40, ” hex key Steering wheel/hardware, Factory Five Badge Unwrap the steering wheel center section and push it into the steering wheel and boss, a little WD40 on the o-ring helps if it is tight. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 464 Peel the backing off the badge and stick it in the center section making sure you are aligned with the top of the steering wheel. If necessary, file any flashing off the bottom edge of the emblem so that it will fit. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...

  • Page 465: Side Exhaust

    With the steering wheel in the position that is most comfortable for you tighten the set screws on the collar of the upper steering bearing. Side Exhaust ”, ” Hex key, ⅜”, ½”, ” socket, ratchet, ” wrench, drill, ”, ”...
  • Page 466 Bolt the mounting bracket to the pipe on the forward side of the bracket. Bolt the pipe and gasket to the header or J-pipe flange with using the shorter ⅜” bolts and mechanical locknuts. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 467 Drill a ” hole in the 2”x 2” outrigger tube directly above the middle hole in the mounting bracket. You want this hole as high as you can get it while still being able to mount the rubber exhaust hanger. About ½”...
  • Page 468 Screw the rubber hanger onto the chassis with the sheet metal mounting screw using one of the washers between the rubber and the head of the screw. Bolt the bottom section of the hanger to the side exhaust mounting bracket using the middle length ”...
  • Page 469 Using the inner hole of the bracket as a guide, drill the 2”x 2” outrigger all the way through both of the tube walls and into the footbox area with a ” bit. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 470 Insert the rubber standoff between the bracket and outrigger and put the nut on finger tight then run the long ” bolt through from inside the footbox into the threads in the standoff. Tighten the whole assembly together. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...

  • Page 471: Aluminum Splash Guards

    Aluminum Splash guards ”, ” drill bit, drill, rivet gun, silicone, caulking gun, ¾” socket, ratchet, extension, marker Secondary body fasteners, packaged aluminum, front wheel and tire Front Wheel Put some of the press-on bulb seal around the outside edge of the aluminum front splash guards (they look like large elephant ears)where they will contact the body.
  • Page 472 Hold the splashguards up against the rear bent lip of the engine bay “F” aluminum. Overlap the two lips. Fit the splash guards in position. If needed, trim them to fit around the outside edge, the weatherstrip will cover the trimming. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 473 Put a wheel and tire on the car and check for aluminum clearance. If necessary push the aluminum in and mark the inside of the body at the outer edge of the splashguards. Remove the wheel. Silicone and rivet the panels in place down the length of the flange. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 474 Use one of the ” rivets to attach to the bottom of the fender just forward of the exhaust cut-out. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...

  • Page 475: Rear Wheel

    Rear Wheel Push a piece of the bulb seal weather stripping around both rear splash guards where they will contact the body. Fit the panels in place and trim the outside perimeter if needed. The small tab on the bottom faces towards the rear of the car and is on the bottom.
  • Page 476 Silicone and rivet the panels in place. Bend the lower tab by hand to fit up flush with the body. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 477 Use a long ” rivet as low as possible to attach the tab to the lower fender. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...

  • Page 478: Finishing Touches

    Finishing Touches Headlight Alignment Masking tape, marker, tape measure Make sure that the car is at the correct ride height before the alignment procedure is done. Ride height should be 4½” at the front and 4½” at the back measured to the bottom of the 4” round tube with the normal number of people/weight in the car.
  • Page 479 Make the following two measurements: Measurement A: From the ground to the geometric center of one of the headlight lenses Measurement B: From one of the low beam headlights to the vehicle centerline. (Also measure from high beam center to vehicle centerline for 4 headlight systems) Note these measurements.

  • Page 480: Alignment Specifications

    Turn the headlights on and adjust the vertical aim of the headlights so that the top horizontal cutoff of each of the beams is located along the horizontal line drawn on the wall. Adjust the horizontal aim of the low beam headlights so that the point at which the top cutoff of the beam begins to slope upwards is located at the vertical marks.

  • Page 481: Optional Parts

    Caster: 7° Camber: -0.5° Total Toe: ” Adjusting the upper control Arm Use the diagram below for reference. Slightly loosen the three pivot bolts using a ⅝” and ” wrench. Loosen the jam nuts on both ends of each adjusting tubes using a 1⅛” wrench. Turn the adjusting tubes to lengthen or shorten the arm.
  • Page 482 www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...

  • Page 483: Performance Reference Material And Technical Support

    Chapter Performance Reference Material and Technical Support www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...

  • Page 484: Wheels

    Wheels Only 7”-9” wheels are recommended for the front. If using a wheel wider than 7”, FFR front lower control arms are needed to prevent the wheels rubbing the control arms. Below is a chart indicating the REAR wheel sizes and backspacing that are possible using the Mark IV kit: Rear Wheel Backspace...

  • Page 485: 1994-1998 Rear End

    17”x 9” and 17”x 10.5” FR style wheels. For a more vintage look, take a look at our Halibrand style wheels. Our online parts catalog: factoryfiveparts.com has more views of these wheels on cars. Left: 15” FFR Halibrand style. Right 17” FFR Halibrand Style 1994-1998 rear end Use two (4) 9”...

  • Page 486: 1999-2003 Rear End

    1999-2003 rear end Because of the width of this rear end, custom wheels are needed if 10” or wider wheels are wanted. Use two (2) 9” wide, 5.95” backspace wheels in the front. See the table above for different width wheel backspacing.

  • Page 487: Efi Engines

    Rear end gears. EFI Engines There are three things an engine needs; air, fuel and spark. If you allow more of each of these into the engine, it will make more power. Throttle Body Stock Mustang size: 58mm A 65mm throttle body work well up to 350hp. Ford Racing, BBK, Jegs, Summit Racing etc… sell many other sizes.

  • Page 488: Upper Intake

    Upper Intake The next logical step for breathing is a more free flowing intake manifold. There are a number of intakes available from different companies (e.g. Edelbrock, Trick Flow). Ford also makes a good intake, the cast 1993 Cobra intake from Ford Racing. Heads The 5.0L Mustang aftermarket is full of aluminum and cast iron heads for the small block Ford.

  • Page 489: Timing

    4.6L 4 valve FRPP Headers. Timing Most computer chips simply change the timing of the engine and slightly enrich the mixture. Using a timing light, advancing the base timing to 14° will do the same. Higher octane fuel will be needed. Under-drive Pulleys Yes.

  • Page 490: High Performance Manual Braking Systems

    Superchargers Factory Five Racing customers have successfully installed Kenne Bell, Vortech, and Powerdyne superchargers in their cars. The key to any supercharger installation seems to be the side that the supercharger is hooked up on. Use the ones that mount on the passenger side. The drivers’ side blowers may get in the way of the steering shaft if the blower is too big.

  • Page 491: Seats

    Kenne Bell Supercharger. Installed supercharger. Seats For the roadracers/autocrossers that want more side support, Factory five offers a variety of different options. Check out www.factoryfive.com www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...

  • Page 492: Helpful Reference Material

    Helpful Reference Material Must Reads • www.FFCobra.com . The largest discussion forum for Factory Five Racing kits. Also has many vendor links. Helpful • 5.0L Ford Dyno Tests. By Richard Holdener. Published by SA Design, Cartech. 11605 Kost Dam Rd., North Branch, MN 55056.

  • Page 493: Tools

    Factory Five Racing does not build or sell completed or partially completed vehicles. We are aware of a number of performance and hot rod shops that claim to specialize in building race cars and kit cars. We have over the years compiled a list of some of them, which includes parts yards, used parts suppliers, paint and body shops, hot rod assemblers, and race car shops.

  • Page 494: Appendix A - Templates

    Appendix A – Templates www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
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  • Page 496 www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 497 www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 498 www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 499 www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 500 www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 501 www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 502 www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 503 www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...

  • Page 504: Appendix B - Pack List

    Appendix B – Pack List www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 505 CUSTOMER:_______________________________________________________ BOX 1A PRIMARY CHASSIS COMPONENTS (MK4 ROADSTER) Check- FFR # Unit Part Name Status 10632 ’87-’95 ROADSTER BUILD MANUAL 1.00 11074 ROADSTER IFS COMPONENTS 13819 ‘87-‘04 SPINDLE ADAPTER BRACKET 2.00 13067 ADJUSTABLE FRONT UPPER CONTROL ARM 2.00 14897 UPPER BALL JOINT 2.00...
  • Page 506 BOX 2A SECONDARY CHASSIS COMPONENTS (MK4 ROADSTER) Check- FFR # Unit Part Name Status 10788 ROADSTER SECONDARY BODY FASTENERS 11061 RUBBER BUMPER, SMALL, (HOOD POST) 10.00 10701 RUBBER BUMPER, LARGE, (HOOD POST) 10.00 10983 SCREW, #8 X 3/4", HOOD POST 10.00...
  • Page 507 11070 WIRING HARNESS MOUNTING HARDWARE 10984 BOLT, #14 x 1/2" 7.00 13979 SCREW WITH COUNTERSUNK WASHER, #8 x 3/4" 8.00 10995 SCREW, #10 X 1" , (INERTIA CUT-OFF SWITCH) 2.00 10851 SCREW, #14 x 1 1/2", (VACUUM CONTROLS) 2.00 11217 RING CONNECTOR, 16 GAUGE, BLUE, (COMPUTER GROUND) 1.00 13647...
  • Page 508 BOX 3A BODY FINISH COMPONENTS – MK4 ROADSTER FFR # Unit Check-Off Part Name Status 14636 FACTORY FIVE BADGE 3.00 12612 VINYLESTER HOOD SCOOP 1.00 14671 HEADLAMP COMPONENTS 2.00 INCLUDED WITH ABOVE PART# MOUNT GASKET 2 #8 x ¾” SCREWS BUCKET, BLACK PLASTIC 5 #8 x ½”...
  • Page 509 11024 BOLT, 5/16"-18 x 1" 4.00 11005 WASHER, 5/16" USS 8.00 13963 LOCK NUT, NYLON, 5/16"-18 4.00 10813 HOOD PIN SET 1.00 INCLUDED WITH ABOVE PART# 2 HOOD PINS 2 HOOD PIN PLATES 4 JAM NUTS 8 PAN HEAD SCREWS 2 HOOD PIN CLIP 10553 QUICK JACK BUMPER COMPONENTS...
  • Page 510 www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 511 BOX 4A ANCILLARY COMPONENTS Check- FFR # Unit Status Part Name 10789 AIR FILTER, CONICAL 1.00 10781 FAN BELT, SIX RIB, SINGLE 1.00 13661 A-FRAME TRANSMISSION MOUNT /HARDWARE 13929 1.00 TRANSMISSION BOLT ON MOUNT, A-FRAME, POWDER COATED 10833 2.00 BOLT, 1/2"x 1.25" 10834 2.00 LOCK NUT, NYLON, 1/2"-13...
  • Page 512 BOX 5A LOWER STEERING SHAFT / CUT DASH / BRAKE-FUEL LINE Check- FFR # Unit Status Part Name 14553 LOWER STEERING SHAFT WITH 1987-1993 RACK ADAPTER (3/4”-36 SPLINE) 1.00 13544 MKIII CUT DASH BOARD 1.00 13738 BRAKE LINE, 3/16" O.D. x 60" 4.00 13740 BRAKE LINE, 3/16"...
  • Page 513 BOX 7A MKIV INTERIOR TRIM / CARPET Check- FFR # Unit Part Name Status 10948 PADDED BLACK VINYL DASH COVER 1.00 14922 EMERGENCY BRAKE BOOT, BLACK LEATHER 1.00 15049 MKIV BLACK CARPET KIT 15050 CARPET, LH FOOTBOX FLOOR, OUTSIDE/FRONT 1.00 15051 CARPET, U-JOINT COVER 1.00...
  • Page 514 BOX 10 A LH MK4 ROLLBAR (POWDER) Check- FFR # Part Name Unit Status 15084 LH 1.50” POWDER COATED ROLLBAR COMPONENTS 15082 LH MAIN HOOP, ROLL BAR, 1.50”, 180 DEG, POWDER COATED BLACK 1.00 15083 ROLLBAR REAR LEG, 1.50”, POWDER COATED BLACK 1.00 15099 1.50”...
  • Page 515 BOX 11B 3-LINK DELUXE REAR SUSPENSION Check- FFR # Unit Status Part Name 14676 ROADSTER/COUPE KONI SOLID AXLE COIL OVER KIT 14623 DAMPER, (KONI 30-1721) 2.00 25621 2.5” KONI SPRING HAT 2.00 25622 2.5” KONI THREADED SPRING SEAT 2.00 25623 2.5”...
  • Page 516 BOX 12 A ‘87-‘95 STRAIGHT TUBES Check- FFR # Unit Status Part Name 13847 LH STRAIGHT PIPE, LONG, ‘87-’95 1.00 13848 RH STRAIGHT PIPE, SHORT, ‘87-’95 1.00 13961 O2 SENSOR PLUG 2.00 END OF BOX 12A BOX 13 A ROADSTER SIDE EXHAUST (UNCOATED) Check- FFR # Unit...
  • Page 517 CHASSIS NUMBER:_____________________________________________________ MKIV M O U N T E D C O M P O N E N T S Check- FFR # Unit Status Part Name 13029 MKIV ROADSTER FRAME, COMPLETE 1.00 33050 3 LINK FRAME MOUNT 1.00 12385 2.5”...
  • Page 518 14841 COCKPIT MOUNTED ALUMINUM 14627 SCREWS, SELF TAPPERS, KIT BUILDING 50.00 10859 ALUMINUM PANEL, LH FOOTBOX, TOP/INSIDE SECTION 1.00 10858 ALUMINUM PANEL, LH FOOTBOX, TOP/OUTSIDE SECTION 1.00 10905 ALUMINUM PANEL, LH FOOTBOX, VERTICAL WALL, INSIDE 1.00 10904 ALUMINUM PANEL, LH FOOTBOX, VERTICAL WALL, FRONT 1.00 10554 ALUMINUM PANEL, LH FOOTBOX, VERTICAL WALLS, OUTSIDE...
  • Page 519 TUBULAR FRONT LOWER ARMS Check- FFR # Unit Status Part Name 12066 LH/RH TUBULAR FRONT LOWER CONTROL ARM 12306 FRONT SUSPENSION, LOWER A-ARM 2.00 14925 BOLT, M16-2MM x 110MM, (FRONT LOWER CONTROL ARM) 4.00 14515 NUT, M16 x 2.0MM, (FRONT LOWER CONTROL ARM) 4.00 12387 WASHER, 5/8"...
  • Page 520 ACCELERATOR PEDAL Check- FFR # Unit Status Part Name 14481 ACCELERATOR PEDAL COMPONENTS 14486 ACCELERATOR PEDAL 1.00 INCLUDED WITH ABOVE PART# ACCELERATOR PEDAL ALLEN WRENCH 13975 BALL STUD RETAINER 1.00 INCLUDED WITH ABOVE PART# STUD RETAINER BALL STUD LOCKNUT OPTION ELECTRICAL SYSTEM COMPLETION COMPONENTS Check- FFR #...
  • Page 521 OPTION MANUAL STEERING RACK Check- FFR # Unit Status Part Name 12619 15:1 ALUMINUM MANUAL STEERING RACK ASSEMBLY 14688 15:1 ALUMINUM MANUAL STEERING RACK W/JAM NUTS 1.00 12620 STEERING RACK POLYURETHANE BUSHINGS 4.00 13651 OUTER TIE-ROD END 2.00 OPTION MANUAL RACK ADAPTER Check- FFR # Unit...
  • Page 522 OEM E-BRAKE HANDLE Check- FFR # Unit Status Part Name 14616 E-BRAKE HANDLE COMPONENTS 14548 E-BRAKE HANDLE 1.00 14549 E-BRAKE T-JUNCTION 1.00 OPTION OEM MK4 FRONT SPINDLES Check- FFR # Unit Status Part Name 33048 FRONT SPINDLES 1.00 INCLUDED WITH ABOVE PART# LH SPINDLE RH SPINDLE 14510...
  • Page 523 OEM FUEL TANK COMPONENTS Check- FFR # Unit Status Part Name 14472 OEM FUEL TANK COMPONENTS 14469 FUEL TANK 1.00 14624 FUEL TANK STRAPS 1.00 INCLUDED WITH ABOVE PART# RH FUEL TANK MOUNTING STRAP LH FUEL TANK MOUNTING STRAP 14470 FUEL TANK COVER 1.00 14476...
  • Page 524 PEDAL BOX ROADSTER/COUPE Check- FFR # Unit Status Part Name 14724 CLUTCH QUADRANT ASSEMBLY 1.00 INCLUDED WITH ABOVE PART# CLUTCH QUADRANT THREADED FIREWALL ADJUSTER 4 #8-32 x 0.75" SOCKET HEAD SCREW 4 #8-32 NYLON LOCKNUT QUADRANT SPACER 3/8"-16 x 3.5" SOCKET HEAD CAP SCREW 3/8"-16x 1.25"...
  • Page 525 ROADSTER COOLING SYSTEM Check- FFR # Unit Status Part Name 14031 ROADSTER ALUMINUM RADIATOR 1.00 12912 INLINE FILLER NECK 1.00 14576 THREADED BARB 1.00 12757 LOWER FAN MOUNT BRACKET 4.00 13127 185 DEGREE THERMOSTAT SWITCH 1.00 11180 0.25" FEMALE TERMINAL CONNECTOR 1.00 14540 16# RADIATOR CAP...
  • Page 526 WIPER KIT (ROADSTER) Check- FFR # Unit Status Part Name 12041 BOXED WIPER COMPONENTS 1.00 INCLUDED WITH ABOVE PART# WIPER MOTOR, LUCAS CABLE, WIPER MOTOR GEAR, WIPER MOTOR WHEELBOX, LUCAS FERRULE, THREADED INSERT NUT, FERRULE GASKET, RUBBER, WIPER BASE SLEEVE, RUBBER, WIPER BASE CHROME BASES, WIPER SOCKET FOR PIN CONNECTERS WIPER MOTOR MOUNT CLAMP...

  • Page 527: Appendix C - Big Block Installation

    Appendix C – Big Block Installation 427 Shown here with fuel injection. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...

  • Page 528: Engine Preparation

    These instructions are designed to supplement the assembly manual where the assembly process is different from the build up using a small block. Sections of the manual that deal with wiring and motor preparation of the small block will not apply and can be skipped. Read through these instructions before beginning assembly as some of the changes occur early on in the build up.
  • Page 529 460 Single plane manifold with 850 CFM Carburetor The throttle cable from the kit can be used with a carburetor and most Holleys come with the correct linkage ball to snap on the cable. Use a universal throttle linkage bracket from Holley or equivalent to hook the cable up to the intake.
  • Page 530 427 Engine Mount with rubber isolator. The transmission we recommend is a Tremec TKO heavy duty 5 speed that will fit the big block engines with a Lakewood bellhousing and the spacer mentioned in the suggested parts list. In order to use any manual transmission the clutch linkage will need to be converted for use with the pedals and cable from the Mustang.
  • Page 531 Bellhousing and spacer lined up to mark pivot hole The Driveshaft will also vary in length depending on the transmission you select. Before you have your Driveshaft shortened, measure the distance between the end of the transmission and the rear axle flange with the car at ride height (4¾”...

  • Page 532: Wiring Harness

    Clutch Fork installed awaiting transmission The transmission mount to the crossmember must also be fitted with spacers due to the higher centerline of the Big Block crankshaft. Two one-inch spacers are fit between the mount and the transmission, which raises the entire assembly, by one inch. Even with this raise the rear of the tranny needs to be trimmed to fit over the 4-inch crossmember as explained in the manual for the TKO transmission.

  • Page 533: Suggested Parts

    Suggested Parts The following parts are suggestions based on a combination of parts that we know to work. These parts are not specifically required and some may be unnecessary depending on your combination. Engine Ford Motorsports 460 M-6007-C460 (SVO) Intake Manifold 5066/Torker II (Edelbrock) Flat Bottom 9 Quart Oil Pan 13-766 (Canton)

  • Page 534: Appendix D - Optional Rear Disc Brakes

    Appendix D – Optional Rear Disc Brakes www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...

  • Page 535: Installation Instructions

    Installation instructions These instructions apply to any 1986-2004 Ford Mustang 8.8 rear axle with Traction-Lok differential (FFR#s 14319,14970) using 1994-2004 OEM Mustang style disc brakes (FFR#s 14834, and 14903). The installation of this kit can be performed by anyone with an average amount of mechanical experience, but it is very important to follow the instructions and refer to a Mustang Shop Manual or equivalent.
  • Page 536 non-synthetic gear oil with GL-5 or GL-6 rating, 4oz of Friction modifier (Ford# CM-19546- A1), Brake Fluid. Remove the ten bolts that hold on the differential cover using a ½” socket wrench. Note: If you are installing disc brakes on a used rear axle, leave one bolt in the top of the cover and have a drain pan ready under the axle, then gently pry the bottom of the cover away from the axle to let the oil drain out using a small pry bar .
  • Page 537 Reach behind the differential and push out the center pin from the back side. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 538 Once the pin is removed, push the axles in toward the differential. When you do this the C -clips that hold the axles in will be visible and they may even fall out. If the C-clips do not fall out, push them off with a small screw driver or needle nose pliers.
  • Page 539 Install the brake caliper brackets so that the caliper will mount on the front side of the axle. Use the four ”-16 flange bolts provided and torque them to 45-50 ft/lbs. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 540 Slide the axles back into the differential and re-install the C-clips. When re-installing the C-clips it helps to use a small magnet to hold onto them as it is difficult to reach the axle and hold onto the clip. Caution: Care must be taken not to let axle shaft splines damage inner wheel bearing oil seals or rear wheel bearing assembly.
  • Page 541 Once the C-clips are in, pull the axle back out until it stops so the clips are held in place. Install the center pin and the bolt that holds it. It’s a good idea to put Locktite on the bolt before installing it, then torque it to 25 ft/lbs.
  • Page 542 Install the rear cover. We recommend using a high temp oil safe RTV silicone rather than a paper gasket. Use a liberal amount, and tighten the bolts to 28-38 ft/lbs. Next install the brake rotor using one lug nut to hold it in place. Make sure to clean the surface of the rotor with brake parts cleaner before installing the caliper.
  • Page 543 Once the rotor is on, put the brake pads in the caliper by pushing down on the pad to compress the wire springs on the top of the pad, and then slide them into the slots in the caliper hanger. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 544 When installing the caliper make sure that the brake fluid bleed screw is on the top side of the caliper. Do not worry about the LH/RH markings on the calipers. Torque the two 12mm mounting bolts to 55ft/lbs using a 16mm socket. Allow the silicone on the cover to dry overnight then fill the rear end with 4oz of friction modifier then 1.875qts of 75W-90 gear oil (or until oil reaches the fill plug).

  • Page 545: Torque Specifications

    Torque Specifications FASTENER TORQUE (FT./LBS.) DIFFERENTIAL PINION SHAFT LOCKING BOLT 15-30 BANJO BOLTS 30-40 WHEEL NUTS 85-105 AXLE ADAPTER/REARBACKING PLATE BOLTS 45-50 AXLE HOUSING COVER BOLTS 25-35 AXLE FILL PLUG 15-30 CALIPER MOUNTING BOLTS 70-95 www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...

  • Page 546: Appendix E - Torque Specifications

    Appendix E – Torque Specifications www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...

  • Page 547: General Bolt Torque Specifications

    General Bolt torque specifications* Thread English Zinc Plated Ft-Lb. ¼ -20 ¼ -28 ⅜ -16 ⅜ -24 ½ -13 ½ -20 ⅝ -11 ⅝ -14 Thread Metric Zinc Plated Ft-Lb. ATTENTION: Use the following specs in order to torque Stainless Bolts. ”...

  • Page 548: Appendix F - Mustang Specifications

    Appendix F – Mustang Specifications www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...

  • Page 549: Special Version Mustangs With Specifications

    Between 1996 and 1998 Ford made 125,231 GT and 28,708 Cobra versions of the Mustang Between 1999 and 2004 Ford made ~200,000 GT, 5,582 Bullitt, 9,652 Mach 1 and 20,727 Cobra versions of the Mustang. (All information is based on V8 Ford Mustangs from 1979 to 2004) Special Version Mustangs with Specifications Year &...

  • Page 550: Rear Axle Ratio

    Rear Axle Ratio Manual Optional Automatic 2004 3.55 2.49 2003 3.55 3.27 1996-2002 3.27 3.27 1995 3.08 3.27 1994 3.08 3.27 1987-1993 2.73 3.08 3.27 From 1986 to 2004 8.8” rear axles were used in Mustangs. In 1994 they went from a 4.25” 4-lug bolt pattern to a 4.5”...
  • Page 551 with an FFR kit. The Factory Five 4.6L steering kit includes the correct inner and outer tie rod ends along with the correct steering adapter. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...

  • Page 552: Appendix E - Fluid Specifications

    Appendix E – Fluid Specifications www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 553 Engine Oil Type Capacity 10W-30 5.0 qts. 4.6L 5W-30 8.0 qts w/FFR pan Transmission Oil Type T-45 3650 T-56 Mercon/Dexron III Trans. Fluid 2.8 qts. 3.25 qts. 4.0 qts. 2.64 qts. 4.0 qts 8.8 Solid Rear Axle Friction Oil Type Capacity Modifier 80W-90 Gear oil...

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