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Factory Five Racing Type 65 Coupe Assembly Manual

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R E V I S I O N 3 J , A P R I L 2 0 1 3


Table of Contents

  Summary of Contents for Factory Five Racing Type 65 Coupe

  • Page 1 R E V I S I O N 3 J , A P R I L 2 0 1 3...
  • Page 2  2013 Factory Five Racing Inc. 9 Tow Rd Wareham, MA 02571 Phone 508.291.3443 • Fax 508.291.3883...
  • Page 3: Table Of Contents

    Table of Contents General Information ..................11 Foreword ......................11 Safety Notice ...................... 14 Safety Tips......................15 How to use This Book ..................16 What You Get ..................... 16 What You Need ....................17 Major Components ....................... 17 Serial Number Identification................19 Tools List ......................
  • Page 4 Exhaust ........................35 Engine Removal ......................35 Front Suspension ......................36 Fuel Tank ........................37 Rear End ........................38 Fuel filter and connectors....................39 Donor Part Preparation ..................39 Rear Coil Springs ......................39 Solid Axle ........................40 Front Lower Control Arms ..................... 42 Fuel Filter Fittings ......................
  • Page 5 Front Brakes ....................... 73 Donor Front Brakes ...................... 73 Complete kit Front Brakes .................... 73 Solid Axle Rear Suspension ................82 Spring Perch mounts ....................86 4 Link Rear Suspension ....................87 Optional 3 Link Rear Suspension .................. 87 Rear Axle installation ....................91 Optional Rear Coil-Over Shock Assembly ..............
  • Page 6 Driver Floor ........................ 167 U-Joint Cover ......................168 Transmission Tunnel rear corners ................169 Cockpit rear wall ......................169 Cockpit rear corners ....................170 Fuel System...................... 170 Fuel Tank ........................170 Fuel Filter ........................174 Fuel Lines........................175 Brake System ....................179 Manual Brake Master Cylinder and pushrod..............
  • Page 7 Fuel Injected application ..................... 217 Carbureted applications ....................218 Mass air meter, Air filter and Intake hose ............219 Engine Ground ....................219 Fuel Vapor Canister ..................220 Cooling System ....................221 Fan Mounting ......................221 Radiator Mounting ...................... 223 Radiator Aluminum .....................
  • Page 8 Hood Latch ......................... 273 Nose Mounting ....................277 Hinge ......................... 277 Nose Side Locator Brackets..................282 Scoops ......................283 Rear Spoiler...................... 285 Radiator Aluminum ................... 286 Exhaust ......................289 Headers ........................289 Side Exhaust ......................290 Windshield area ....................291 Doors ........................
  • Page 9 Fuel Filler Neck ....................342 Nose mounting ......................345 Door final fit ...................... 346 Hinge ......................... 346 Door Weather-Stripping ....................346 Door ........................... 347 Handles ........................348 Under door aluminum ..................348 Rear front splash guards .................. 349 Headlight/Turn signal wiring ................350 License Plate Light and Bracket ...............
  • Page 10 Fuel Injectors ......................392 Upper Intake ....................... 392 Heads......................... 392 Cams ......................... 392 Headers ........................392 Timing ........................393 Under-drive Pulleys ....................393 Oil Cooler ........................393 Bellhousing ......................... 393 High Horsepower Transmissions ................394 Steering Rack ......................394 Spindles ........................394 Rear Suspension ......................
  • Page 11 Engine ........................432 Transmission ......................432 Rear Axle Ratio ......................432 Front brakes ....................... 433 Rear Brakes ....................... 433 Master cylinder ......................433 Starter ........................433 Driveshaft ........................433 Clutch Cable, Quadrant ....................434 Speedometer cable ....................434 Mass Air Sensor ......................434 Oxygen Sensors ......................
  • Page 12: General Information

    Chapter General Information Foreword f you are reading this, you are embarking on a mission to build your own car, or at least considering doing so. I wanted to share with you some of my experiences and lessons learned while working with literally thousands of people who have completed this...
  • Page 13 part of the very definition of always trying to go faster. The late Carroll Smith wrote something I really loved that speaks to this point. “There is no magic! The one basic truth of successful racecar preparation bears repeating. There is no magic. There is only logic, common sense, forethought, vast amounts of hard work, and a fanatic dedication to the task at hand”.
  • Page 14 You will join a community of others who have earned their own… and THAT is the story of Factory Five Racing and that is what awaits you in this process.
  • Page 15: Safety Notice

    If, while building, driving or racing this Factory Five Racing kit, should you become injured or die, it will be the result of your own conscious decision and we at Factory Five Racing, Inc., disclaim any responsibility of any kind.
  • Page 16: Safety Tips

    Safety Tips  Read the manual. It is at least a good guide and place to start.  Don’t take short cuts.  Before starting work, make sure you have the proper tools, the required parts, and sufficient space for the job.
  • Page 17: How To Use This Book

    How to use This Book This Assembly manual is intended to help you build your Factory Five Kit. This book will not explain such things as engine or transmission building. A secondary purpose of this book is to use it as reference for owners that want to do maintenance work on their cars or for those that purchase finished cars, to understand their cars better.
  • Page 18: What You Need

    Engine/Exhaust parts: Kit comes with alternate drive pulley assembly, oil filter relocate kit, and exhaust assembly to adapt Mustang engine and headers to vintage side exit exhausts. Gauges and Dash and Electrical Assembly: Kit parts are included to adapt the Mustang wiring harness.
  • Page 19 Rear End: 1987-1998 Ford 8.8” rear axle. 1987-1993 width is optimal Paint: Most customers will send out the body and paint work to a professional body shop. Steering Rack: 1987-2004 Ford Mustang. Fuel tank/pump and filter: 1987-2004 Ford Mustang. Electrical: 1987-1993 Ford Mustang chassis and EFI harnesses with sensors, computer, ignition switch and turn signal stalk.
  • Page 20: Serial Number Identification

    Serial Number Identification Factory Five Racing has included a Certificate of Origin along with a Nameplate for your kit. The serial number from the Certificate of Origin matches the number engraved on the 2”x 2” tube going across the car at the front of the cockpit. Below is an example of how the nameplate looks. The VIN number space is provided so that your state issued VIN number can be engraved if you so desire.
  • Page 21: Tools List

    Tools List The following lists detail the tools and supplies that are needed to build your kit. The “helpful” items are not crucial to the assembly but make life easier. Home Depot HUSKY®, Sears CRAFTSMAN®, and Snap-On tools are all guaranteed for life and we’ve found them to be more reliable over discount tools.
  • Page 22: Required Supplies

    Required Supplies Stick with name brand products like Eastwood, 3M, and Duplicolor. The Eastwood brand coatings are great for bringing weathered and oxidized parts up to show quality. PPG brand and DuPont brand paints are excellent. Engine degreaser Silicone Door and window sealant, GE Silicone II or equivalent - 4 tubes Coolant –...
  • Page 23: Donor Parts And Prep

    Chapter Donor Parts and Prep 508-291-3443...
  • Page 24: The 5.0L Mustang

    This chapter deals with the Mustang parts needed in addition to our kit. Many people choose to use parts from a single Mustang donor. If you are not going to use a donor car but choose to acquire parts separately, this section may still be useful. The complete list of parts required to build the FFR Coupe is included in the Appendix of this manual.
  • Page 25: Donor Parts Selection Tips

    Donor Parts Selection Tips 87-93 Mustang The following are a few tips we’ve picked up over the years when dealing with used parts. In addition to the parts that come with the kit, you have to provide the running gear and some other parts that can be taken directly off a 1987-1993 Mustang.
  • Page 26: Price

    All Mustang Tommy Performance Phoenix, AZ 800-454-8387 Thompson Mustang Village Fontana, CA 909 823 7915 Scott or Tom Cypress Auto Berkley, CA 510 451 3034 Mike Percy Mustang Depot Las Vegas, NV 702 281 4517 Price Whether you’re buying a complete salvage yard car or a bunch of parts, it’s important to remember which parts are worth money to the salvage yard and which ones are of little or no value.
  • Page 27: Disassembly Of A Mustang Donor For Parts

    shoes on the unit. The drum pulls straight out, off the axle. Rear shoes are never really replaced until about 60-100K miles unless there was severe duty (read abuse) placed on the car.  The easiest way to avoid engine work is to buy a donor car with an engine that runs. Everyone will tell you it runs, but it’s best to hear for yourself.
  • Page 28: 87-95 Brake Power Booster

    When in doubt, don’t throw it out. That one little OEM bolt could save you a trip to the auto parts store. 87-95 Brake Power Booster  Socket set, wrenches or box wrenches for brake lines, tube cutter, tape, and marker pen. ...
  • Page 29: Engine Bay Sensors And Electrical Connections

    Remove the two bolts that secure the steering rack to the frame and lower the rack out of the car. Mustang steering rack with lines removed with rubber bushings and fasteners. Engine Bay Sensors and Electrical Connections  Socket set, combination wrenches, Phillips head screwdriver, slip joint pliers, tape, marker, and bucket.
  • Page 30: Interior

    Remove and discard the front driver’s side plastic wheel well using a 7mm socket to loosen it from the body. Disconnect and remove the horns. They are located just forward of the wheel well on the driver’s side (accessed from the wheel well). Label and mark the connectors with tape. Interior ...
  • Page 31: Computer

    Unbolt and remove the pedal box. Computer  Socket set.  Mustang Computer and OEM plastic cradle.  If you are going to run the car with a Carburetor you can disregard the EFI wiring harness part in this section. ...
  • Page 32: Dash Wiring Harness

    Remove the steering column mounts located under the dash above the driver floor. Allow the column to fall down. Remove the wiring connectors have from the turn signal and ignition switches. Remove the turn signal stalk Dash Wiring Harness  Socket set, extension, regular, Torx and Phillips head screwdrivers, needle nose pliers, hammer, and marker tape.
  • Page 33: Front Wiring Harness

    Front Wiring Harness  Socket set, extension, regular, Phillips head screwdrivers, needle nose pliers, hammer, and marker tape.  Front wiring harnesses. Pull the rubber grommet out of the firewall into the engine bay. Remove the front light harness from the engine bay wall working from the starter solenoid area to the alternator.
  • Page 34: Shifter And Shifter Handle

    Release the cable sheath retainer clip. Pull the cable out and replace the clip on the cable. You may even want to tape it in place. Clutch cable and retainer circlip. Shifter and Shifter handle  Socket set, Phillips head screwdriver. ...
  • Page 35: Fuel Inertia Cut-Off Switch

    Fuel Inertia cut-off switch  Socket set, nut driver, Phillips head screwdriver, wire cutters to cut plastic fasteners, marker pen, and tape.  Fuel inertia cut-off switch.  It is recommended that a fuel inertia cut-off switch be used in the car. Inertia cut-off switch.
  • Page 36: Exhaust

    The transmission harness must be removed along with the rubber plug. This runs along the driver’s side of the transmission tunnel. Store the rear harness and transmission harness. Exhaust  Wrenches, ” socket, socket extension, ratchet, adjustable wrench, hack saw. ...
  • Page 37: Front Suspension

    Use duct tape or zip ties to secure the lower radiator hose up to the power steering pump area so that it will not spill fluid as the engine is removed later.  Get help with the next few steps, as the parts involved are heavy! Attach an engine hoist to the engine lift points at the driver’s front and passenger’s rear areas of the engine.
  • Page 38: Fuel Tank

    Lower A-arm w/bolts, brake caliper, spindle and brake rotor. Use a spring compression tool to remove the front springs or chain the spring to the chassis. Remove the three bolts that retain the struts to the top mounting plate. Slowly lower the Jack and the strut assembly will come out of the body mount (sometimes violently) and allow the lower control arm to go down.
  • Page 39: Rear End

    Open the gas cap to relieve any pressure built up in the tank. Remove the screws that hold the upper fuel cap and flange to the body of the car. Remove the set screw and metal ring collar retainer from the fuel neck where it meets the tank. Remove the fuel neck from the upper fuel fill area and slide the lower fuel tube out of the rubber grommet on the side of the tank.
  • Page 40: Fuel Filter And Connectors

    Remove the bolts and nuts from the lower rear Mustang control arm, where the arms are mounted to the body/chassis. Remove the bolts and nuts from the upper Mustang control arm, where the arms are mounted to the body/chassis. All of the arms should remain attached to the rear end assembly. Once off, place the bolts back into the arms and attach nuts so they do not get lost.
  • Page 41: Solid Axle

    Remove the rubber tubular spacer from inside the coil. Cut one full coil from the top of the spring for correct ride height setting. Cut the upper rubber spring seat so that during assembly of the kit, it will conform to the spring mount on the frame.
  • Page 42 If using a used rear axle, remove the lower shock mounts and the anti vibration weight under the pinion. Drill the lower control arm holes out with a ½” drill bit. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 43: Front Lower Control Arms

     The lower shock mount brackets will get used on the front lower control arms to mount the front shocks Front Lower Control Arms  Hack saw, file grinder Remove the area, near the center of the spring mount to prevent damage to the coil-over unit thru any contact whatsoever.
  • Page 44: Fuel Filter Fittings

    Coil-over mounted in lower arm with clearance hole. Fuel Filter Fittings  Razor knife  Donor plastic fuel line fittings from fuel filter to body hard line and from return line from body hard line to fuel tank. Carefully with out damaging the plastic barb, cut the hard plastic off the plastic barbs. Barbed fitting removed from plastic hose.
  • Page 45: Fuel Filler Neck

     Fuel Tank At the locations on the tank where the tank straps come near the tank, use a pair of pliers and bend the bent parts flat. Fuel Filler Neck  Hack saw  Fuel Filler neck Cut the Mustang steel fuel neck in the mid-section after the 90 bend. Leave enough straight tube, to attach a hose clamp to each side.
  • Page 46: Accelerator Pedal

    Accelerator Pedal Remove the plastic part of accelerator pedal by pushing out the pin. Trim the accelerator pedal as shown, just above the plastic pedal support pad. It is possible to mount the original plastic pedal piece onto the shortened pedal if desired. This can be accomplished by squeezing the bottom of the trimmed pedal and drilling a hole for the stock pin.
  • Page 47: Wiring Harness

    87-93 Pedal box marked for cutting. Cut-off the marked area (bottom of the front mount flange) with a hack saw. This is necessary for steering shaft clearance. Wiring Harness  Razor knife, electrical tape.  Many people choose to cut down the wiring harness to use only the wires and leads that are needed.
  • Page 48: Brake Power Booster Push-Rod

    Brake Power Booster Push-rod Remove the master cylinder from the power booster. The power brake assembly is changed to a manual brake assembly for this kit. This simple modification is done on many SCCA Mustangs for improved brake feel. In a 2,100 lb. car, the feedback is good and power brakes are not really necessary.
  • Page 49: Emergency Brake Handle

    If you are using a Lakewood bell housing, trim the area around the starter so that is flush with the inspection cover. If you are not running emissions equipment, the only engine controls that need vacuum are the PCV valve in the valve cover and the fuel pressure regulator. The EGR can be left unhooked. Make sure to close off any extra vacuum ports.
  • Page 50: Alternate Drive Pulley Preparation

    Top: Trimmed handle. Bottom: Untrimmed handle. Trim the handle with grinder, it is very hard steel. Alternate Drive Pulley Preparation  Cordless drill, ½” drill bit, needle nose pliers  Alternate drive pulley template  On 87-93 EFI cars, the pulley and fan belt supplied replace the A/C compressor and power steering pump.
  • Page 51: Cleaning And Detailing

    Remove the hydraulic lines. Drain all fluid by turning it, lock to lock, upside down over a collection pan. Dispose of the fluid properly. The rack is greased on the gears at the ends. The Mustang power rack is converted to a manual rack by removing the hydraulic lines from it and draining the fluid.
  • Page 52: Disassembly Of The Kit

    Chapter Disassembly of the kit 508-291-3443...
  • Page 53: Unpacking Your Kit

    Unpacking Your Kit Customer picking up a kit at our Wareham, MA facility in June 2000. Please note that your boxes are numbered, when you read your packing list you will see that next to each assembly there is a number circled. This is the box number that the assembly was packaged in. The kit is packaged in the order that you will be using the parts.
  • Page 54: Aluminum Removal

    Lift in the exhaust recess and the rear wheel well. Body with sides supported. Aluminum Removal  ¼” nut driver, jack stands, marker.  Do one panel at a time. Be careful of the sharp aluminum edges, they can cut you. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 55 Using a marker outline the underside of each panel where it contacts the chassis. This is done to locate where to drill rivet holes when the panels are permanently mounted later on. Mark each panel and take pictures of how the panels fit together (i.e. which is on top). Remove each panel after it has been marked until the chassis is bare.
  • Page 56 Use jack-stands to position your frame in your workspace with plenty of room to move things around. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 57: Chassis Assembly

    Chapter Chassis Assembly 508-291-3443...
  • Page 58: Rivet Spacing Tool

    Rivet Spacing Tool  Packaged Aluminum  In most cases we use a 3” rivet spacing when mounting aluminum panels to the chassis and a 2” spacing when mounting panel to panel. The rivet spacing tool has this hole spacing marked. The distance from the edge of the tool to the holes is correct to center the rivets on the ¾”...
  • Page 59 Put thread locker on the upper balljoint threads. Screw the upper ball joints into the control arms so that the balljoint angles out on the bottom 508-291-3443...
  • Page 60 Tighten the balljoint using the arm for leverage with a Vice holding the ball joint. Screw the grease fittings in to the ball joints and tighten with a ⅜” wrench.  If assembling a complete Coupe kit with the FFR spindles, skip to the next section. Front upper control arm mounting with donor spindles Mount the upper control arms to the chassis with the grease fittings pointed up.
  • Page 61 Front upper control arm mounting with FFR Spindles Mount the upper control arms to the chassis with the grease fittings pointed up. Use the mount holes that are vertical on the side of the 2”x 3” tube, not the top horizontal ones. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 62 Use a washer with the front locknut. Do not use a washer on the rear locknut. Torque the two bolts that hold the arm to the frame to 135-149Nm (100-110 lbft). 508-291-3443...
  • Page 63: Pivot Endplay

    Pivot endplay Adjust the locknuts on the ends of the pivot shaft so that there is minimal endplay but so the pivots can still rotate easily on the shaft.  The pivots may be a little stiff at first but once on the car they will loosen slightly. Adjusting the upper control Arm ...
  • Page 64 Unpack the front shocks, coil-over’s and hardware. Double check the jam nut under the rod end and bump stop to make sure that it is tight. Screw the spring seat down on the sleeve so it is closer to the unthreaded end. Slide the coil sleeve over the body of the damper beginning at the end which has the rubber bump stop.
  • Page 65 Slide the rubber bumper about two inches down on the shaft. Put the spring and hat on the shock and rotate the spring seat back up the sleeve so that the spring pushes the hat tight against the end of the shock. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 66 Install the snap ring on the spring hat so that it holds onto the shock end. Make sure that the slot in the snap ring and the slot in the spring hat are not aligned. Pass the shock assembly (with the body of the shock up) through the upper control arm and attach them to the lower control arm using the 0.43”...
  • Page 67: Spindles

    Fasten the shock to the top mount with the fasteners and 0.675” spacers provided and torque both upper and lower mounts to 40 ft-lbs. Spindles  If assembling a complete Coupe kit with the FFR spindles, skip to the next section. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 68 Donor Spindles  ” socket, Torque wrench, Needle Nose Pliers, Rubber Mallet  IFS components, Mustang Spindles. Make sure the grease boot is in place on the lower ball joint then mount the spindle to the lower control arm. Attach the castle nut and torque the ball joint to 106-149Nm (80-110 lbft) and install a new cotter pin from the IFS components assembly.
  • Page 69 Place the spacer under the castle nut to ensure that the cotter pin is at the correct height. Torque to 106- 149Nm (80-110 lbft) and install the cotter pin. Attach the upper ball joint to the spindle and torque to 75 ft-lbs and install the cotter pin. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 70  The upper ball joint boot will look crushed and out of shape when the car is in the air, this is OK. The boot will seat when the car is on the ground. Bolt the steering arms to the spindles with the taper facing down. Torque to 60 ft-lbs. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 71 The hub is a snug fit on the spindle and may require a light tap with a soft mallet to get in place. Torque the hub nut to 305-338Nm (225-250 ft-lbs). Using a large socket or a flat head screwdriver and rubber mallet, hit the dust cap onto the hub. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 72: Front Suspension Torque Specs Chart

    Front Suspension Torque Specs Chart Item Lbft Front lower control arm to frame 135-162 100-110 Front lower ball joint to spindle 106-163 80-120 Upper A-arm to frame 135-162 100-110 Upper ball joint to Spindle 95-122 70-90 Spindle hub nut 305-338 225-250 IFS Bracket ...
  • Page 73 Attach the upper ball joint to the spindle and torque to 75 ft-lbs and install the cotter pin.  The upper ball joint boot will look crushed and out of shape when the car is in the air, this is OK. The boot will seat when the car is on the ground.
  • Page 74: Front Brakes

    Front Brakes  Sockets, Ratchet, Torque wrench, chassis grease, rags, brake cleaner,  Mustang front brake calipers and rotors  Make sure that your brake pads and rotors are in good condition. Donor Front Brakes Make sure that the hub bearings are greased correctly and adequately. Push the rotor onto the spindle.
  • Page 75 Install the caliper slider pins on the caliper using the supplied bolts and a 16mm wrench and 12mm socket. Torque to 23-26 ft/lbs. Install the slider grease boots on the slider pins. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 76 In the supplied hardware bag there are six steel clips that are designed to separate the pads from the caliper. These clips allow the pads to slide on a smooth surface and not wear on the caliper. The four clips that go on the ends of the hanger are different end to end, and must be installed with the long tab facing out.
  • Page 77 508-291-3443...
  • Page 78 The two clips that are left go in the center of the caliper with the tab sticking up through the center hole. Insert the clip from the inside of the caliper through the large center hole with the larger tab on the side facing the pistons then press down on the outer part of the clip so the small clip goes through the large hole and clips on.
  • Page 79 Grease the slide pins using the supplied grease. Slide the caliper hanger onto the caliper. Push the rubber boots over the lip on the caliper bracket to seal the slider bolts correctly. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 80 Look at the back side of each brake pad to find the inside pads and the outside pads. The difference is the location of the studs that are on the back of each pad. The studs on the inside pads are out near the ends of the pad, while the studs on the outside pads are near the middle.
  • Page 81 Install the brake pads in the Caliper. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 82 Clean the rotor with brake cleaner and push it onto the hub. Install the caliper on the spindle; make sure that the fluid bleeder is at the top of the caliper. Torque the caliper mounting bolts to 130Nm (95 ft-lb). 508-291-3443...
  • Page 83: Solid Axle Rear Suspension

    Solid Axle Rear Suspension  ¾” sockets, ¾” wrench, ½” drill bit, drill, floor jack, jack stands, Torque Wrench 508-291-3443...
  • Page 84  8.8” Rear axle assembly, Box 11 Solid axle Traction Lok brackets, Rear control arms.  Use caution when working with the rear end assembly, it weights 225 lbs.  Skip to the Independent Rear suspension if not installing a Solid axle. ...
  • Page 85 Axle Bracket Passenger Side Temporarily put the lower shock bolt through the traction lock bracket and stock shock hole on the axle. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 86 Tighten the two short bolts. Torque to Ford Specs 75-95 Nm (55-70 lbft). Attach the lower control arms to the brackets on the axle using the bolt provided. Torque to 101-111Nm (75-82 lb-ft) The lower bolt holes provide more traction than the upper holes. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 87: Spring Perch Mounts

     If using Rear coil-over shocks, skip the next section. Spring Perch mounts  ½” drill bit, drill, ¾” wrench, ¾” socket, ratchet  Rear spring perches, Mustang springs and rubber isolator mounts Hold the spring perches up to the frame so the vertical perch mount is in between the 2”x 3” tube and the vertical frame mount.
  • Page 88: Link Rear Suspension

    Thread the cut rear springs onto the conical frame mounts all the way. Insert the cut rubber spring mount between the spring and the steel seat. Make sure the end of it is flush with the end of the spring mount. ...
  • Page 89 Upper Link Axle Mount  If using the FFR Moser axle skip to the next section since the upper link bracket is welded to the axle. Test fit the two halves of the upper arm mount together. If it is hard to put all of the bolts in the mount holes, put in as many as you can then use a ½”...
  • Page 90 The front attachment of the upper link axle mount attaches to the hole on the flange section of the pumpkin. This hole has some variance and may need to be drilled out from the bottom side using the mount as a guide. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 91 Install a jam nut on each of the rod ends, remembering that two of them are left hand thread. Insert the rod ends into the swedged tubes (one is right hand thread and one is left hand thread). The longer tube is the Panhard bar and the shorter one is the upper link. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 92: Rear Axle Installation

    Upper Link Attach the short upper link tube to the axle upper link mount using the ¼” spacers on either side of the rod end. Rear Axle installation  Have someone help with this step, the rear axle is very heavy and mistakes can result in serious injury.
  • Page 93  Make sure that the rear jack stands are positioned under the 4” round tube as far back as possible to prevent the frame from tipping up once the axle is mounted  Do not hold the end of the axle from the bottom of the disc, if the axle falls, the axle can crush your fingers and result in serious injury.
  • Page 94 Attach the lower control arms to the frame mounts. Jack the rear axle up. If using a 4 link, attach the upper control arms to the frame. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 95: Optional Rear Coil-Over Shock Assembly

    If using a 3 Link, attach the upper link to the frame.  If using the stock Mustang shocks, skip the next section. Optional Rear Coil-Over Shock Assembly  Snap ring pliers, ¾” wrench, ¾” socket, ratchet, ruler, marker, hack saw. ...
  • Page 96 Unpack the rear shocks, coil over’s and hardware. Double check the jam nut under the rod end and bump stop to make sure that it is tight. Screw the spring seat down on the sleeve so it is closer to the unthreaded end. The center high part of the set should be pointed away from the unthreaded end.
  • Page 97 Slide the rubber bumper about two inches down on the shaft. Put the spring on the shock, then install the spring hat on the shaft end of the shock and push the rubber bumper up against it. Rotate the spring seat back up the sleeve so that the spring pushes the hat tight against the end of the shock.
  • Page 98 Assembled solid axle Koni coil-over shock. Use zip ties to hold the spring to the spring hat. Attach the body end of the shock to the upper shock mount using the two equal length (1.09”) spacers. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 99 Jack the rear axle up so the rod end of the shocks can be mounted on the axle through the shock mount hole. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 100: Rear Shocks

    Rear shocks  Torque wrench, ratchet, ¾” socket, 15mm wrench  Mustang vertical shocks, quad shocks, quad shock brackets, Quad shock fasteners assembly, rear spring perches, rear traction Lok brackets/fasteners. Attach the rear vertical shocks at the top through the holes in the plates located in the trunk area using the Mustang rubber bushings and fasteners.
  • Page 101 Passenger side Driver Side Check for shock clearance on brake lines, emergency brake cables, brake calipers, frame and axle parts. Check to make sure that the spring is seated correctly on the shock. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 102: Link Rear Suspension Torque Specs Chart

    Mount the quad shocks and their brackets to the rectangular frame plate hanging under the 2”x 3” tube behind the axle. Attach the rear end axle straps (included with the kit). These cables will prevent drive shaft binding if you happen to achieve airborne status. The rear end straps bolt to the front bolt of the quad shock up high, and back side of the vertical shock down low.
  • Page 103: Panhard Bar Frame Mount

    Panhard Bar Frame mount Attach the Panhard Bar frame mount to the inside of the quad shock brackets, the forward leg will attach to the back of the angled 2”x 3” tube. Do not tighten the quad shock bracket bolts yet. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 104 For the front mount, use a ½” drill bit and drill through the sleeve on the mount. Make sure before drilling that the hole is away from the side of the 2”x 3” tube so that a nut can be attached on the back of the bolt from the bottom of the tube.
  • Page 105 The Panhard bar mounts to the car using the ½” bolts and spacers. Install the Panhard bar to the passenger side traction lock bracket. Three spacers are used in the front (2) 0.375" and (1) 0.25". The rear uses the thin 0.125" shim. It will be necessary to adjust the length some to fit, make sure that you adjust the same amount on both sides.
  • Page 106 Attach the Panhard bar to the frame mount using the spacers provided. There should never be less than ¾” of threads screwed into either the Panhard bar or the upper arm. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 107: Link Rear Suspension Torque Specs Chart

    To set the pinion angle, make sure that your ride height is where you want it, and then adjust the upper arm until the desired angle is reached. We usually run about 2° up on the rear axle, but you can adjust this to fit your particular set-up.
  • Page 108: Irs Center Section

    IRS Center Section Mount the rear center section to the chassis. It installs from the bottom with the driveshaft flange pointing straight up and the axle holes lined up front to back with the chassis. Use one rear bolt through the rear cover to hold it in place.
  • Page 109 Slide the bushing sleeves into the bushings from the top. Through bolt the two front bushings and the remaining rear mount with the mounting hardware and tighten. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 110: Lower Control Arms

    Lower Control Arms Screw the rod ends with jam nuts into the lower control arm. Screw the forward joint in all the way then back out 4 turns. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 111 Mount the lower arms to the chassis with the shock mount hanging down below the arm. The rear bolt can be slip in place with no shims for now. Shim the front bolts using 3 shims on the front side of the rod end on both the left and right arms.
  • Page 112: Irs Rear Coil-Over Shock Assembly

    IRS Rear Coil-Over Shock Assembly  Snap ring pliers, ¾” wrench, ¾” socket, ratchet, ruler, marker, hack saw.  Roadster/Coupe rear shock kit  The rear shocks are pre-valved at the factory in compression and rebound for good street use. The shocks can be adjusted in rebound as per Koni’s instructions if so desired.
  • Page 113 Screw the spring seat down on the sleeve so it is closer to the unthreaded end. The center high part of the set should be pointed away from the unthreaded end. Slide the coil sleeve over the body of the damper beginning at the end which has the rubber bump stop. The unthreaded end of the sleeve goes first so that it will sit on the snap ring on the shock body.
  • Page 114 Put the spring on the shock, then install the spring hat on the shaft end of the shock and push the rubber bumper up against it. Rotate the spring seat back up the sleeve so that the spring pushes the hat tight against the end of the shock.
  • Page 115 Assembled solid axle Koni coil-over shock. Use zip ties to hold the spring to the spring hat. Mount the coil-over to the chassis mount using the two of the smaller length spacers on either side. The body of the shock goes toward the top. Mount the lower control arm to the coil-over with the remaining large and small spacers.
  • Page 116: Cv Axles

    CV Axles Push the CV joints into the rear axle and let them rest on the lower arm. Spindles Slide the splined end of the outer CV joint into the hub and mount the spindle to the lower arm. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 117: Upper Control Arms

    Upper Control arms Screw in the rod end and jam nut into the upper arm and attach it to the chassis using a short equal length spacer on either side of the rod end. Attach the upper arm to the spindle and tighten all of the spindle mounting hardware. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 118: Quad Shock Installation

    Quad shock Installation Attach the body end of the Quad shock to the upper arm of the IRS with the supplied metric bolt. Attach the shaft end of the Quad shock to the rear quad shock bracket hole on the frame using the washer on the outside of the quad shock as shown in the picture.
  • Page 119: Rear Calipers And Rotors

    Rear Calipers and Rotors Push the slotted rotor onto the spindle. Attach the caliper to the spindle using the OEM T-Bird bolts. Width Adjustment Mount your wheels and tires. Lower the frame off the jack stands. With the car on the ground, check the ride height of the car to the bottom of the 4” frame rail ...
  • Page 120 Place a straight edge on the rotor wheel mounting surface on each side of the suspension and measure across the car to find the suspension width.  With these axles, it is recommended that the rear suspension should measure 59.00” for the standard width or 54.00”...
  • Page 121: Optional Irs Brakes

    Adjust the rod ends the same number for turns for the front and rear rod ends on the lower control arm and upper control arm as required so that  If the number of turns done is the same for all control arms on one side of the suspension, an alignment is not needed after the installation.
  • Page 122 Insert a hex head bolt through the Caliper Mount Bracket hole so that the threads will point out. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 123 From the outside in, insert two hex head bolts through the Spindle caliper mount holes then through the caliper mount bracket. Torque the bolts to 87-101Nm (64-75 lbft). Place the caliper mount spacers on the bolts facing out. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 124 Place the brake rotor on the spindle Load the caliper with the brake pads Put a dot of Locktite on the threads of the two bolts with the spacers on. Attach the caliper to the caliper mount bracket. Hand tighten both bolts starting with the top on first. Keep the head of the bolt near the caliper adapter bracket in order to tighten it.
  • Page 125: Driver Front Footbox Aluminum

    Tighten the top mount bolt with a ¾” wrench. Driver Front Footbox Aluminum  Drill, ” drill bit, rivet tool, caulk gun, silicone  Firewall and Driver Footbox Front aluminum, Secondary body fasteners.  If you are installing a heater/defroster it is much easier to cut the firewall before installing. Refer to those instructions for the template.
  • Page 126: Pedal Box

    Pedal Box  ⅜”, ” sockets, ”, ” hex key, drill, ” wrench, ⅛”, ¼”, ” drill bits, silicone, rivet tool, marker.  Mustang pedal box, pedal box hardware, cockpit aluminum. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 127: Mustang Pedal Box

    Mustang Pedal Box 508-291-3443...
  • Page 128 Position the Mustang pedal box on the two angled ¾” tubes over the driver’s feet, and attach using two short ⅜” bolts and two washers to the front wall at the front of the foot box. There are four holes on the Mustang pedal assembly on top of the ¾” tubing. Mark these holes on the tubes.
  • Page 129 The right hole for the master cylinder must also be marked on the pedal box. Use the laser cut hole in the foot box steel as a guide to mark the Mustang pedal box. Remove the pedal assembly. Drill ¼” holes completely through the ¾” tubing for the pedal box. Use a ”...
  • Page 130: Complete Kit Pedal Box

    Reinstall the pedal box assembly in the driver’s footbox; use the ¼”x 1.50” screws from the pedal box fastener assembly with a fender washer next to the head. Leave all the hardware hand tight. Complete kit pedal box  ½”, ”...
  • Page 131  This pedal box is set-up to use either a hydraulic clutch or a cable clutch. The parts and instructions required for a cable clutch installation are included in this kit. Unpack the pedal box assembly. Now is a good time to paint all of the bare steel brackets. Use snap ring pliers to remove one of the retaining clips from the brake pedal pivot sleeve and pull the sleeve to remove the pedal.
  • Page 132 Place the brake switch mount between the brake pedal mount tabs on the side closest to the brake pedal pivot holes and drill a ” hole through the brake switch mount hole and the pedal box. Attach the brake switch mount to the pedal box using the black #10 screw and locknut. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 133 Clutch Cable Quadrant Using snap ring pliers, remove one of the retaining clips from the clutch pedal pivot sleeve. Push the pivot sleeve out and remove the pedal and remove the second snap ring from the clutch pedal pivot sleeve. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 134 Using snap ring pliers, attach one of the snap rings to the new longer pivot sleeve provided. Push the pivot sleeve through the clutch quadrant from the left side. If necessary, chase the quadrant hole with a ½” drill bit so that the quadrant can slide on the pivot sleeve. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 135 Put one of the Wilwood pedal washers on the pivot sleeve next to the quadrant. Remove the snap ring holding the master cylinder mount to the clutch pedal, push the pivot sleeve out and remove the master cylinder mount. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 136 Attach the Wilwood pedals to the underside of the mounting bracket using three button head screws and locknuts and the stud. The stud should get mounted on the left side next to the clutch pedal pivot sleeve boss. A tap in with a hammer and punch will get the stud to stick while tightening.
  • Page 137 Attach the Clutch pedal stop mount to the bottom of the pedal box using two ¼” socket head screws, spacers and locknuts. Put the actuator in a vise and snug up the bolts with a ” hex key. Do not overtighten and strip the threads.
  • Page 138 Slide the Quadrant and new pivot sleeve assembly through the hole in the side of the Wilwood pedal bracket and remount the clutch pedal. Put the remaining thin washer and snap ring on the pivot sleeve. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 139 Put locktite on the ” bolt threads. Insert the ” bolt through the clutch pedal and thread into the actuator. Snug up the bolt using a ” hex key.  This ” bolt is only used to hold the pedal in position when the pedal is not being pushed depending on the pedal height.
  • Page 140 Place the pedal box assembly in the drivers footbox. Make sure that the brake pedal goes in front of the ¾” cross tube on the frame. Unpack the pedal box hardware from the secondary chassis components box. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 141 Insert three ⅜” x 1” socket head screws from the pedal box hardware assembly and the one included in this pedal assembly through the front of the footbox and through the pedal box mount. Push the rear pedal box mount onto the master cylinder mount studs and use a few of the jam nuts from the Wilwood pedal assembly to temporarily hold the rear mount in place.
  • Page 142 Tighten two of the front ⅜” screws then use a marker to mark the locations of the rear mount holes on the ¾” tubes. Loosen the bolts and remove the pedal box assembly from the footbox then use a ¼” drill bit and drill to drill through the ¾”...
  • Page 143 Reinstall the pedal box assembly in the driver’s footbox; use the ¼”x 1.50” screws from the pedal box fastener assembly with a fender washer next to the head. Leave all the hardware hand tight. Master Cylinders Place a jam nut from the Wilwood pedals onto each of the master cylinder threaded shafts. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 144 Put one of the master cylinders onto one of the brake master cylinder mounts and turn the threaded shaft into the threaded mount on the brake pedal. As a starting point, thread the shaft in until you can see it is flush on the other side of the mount.
  • Page 145 Tighten all the remaining hardware mounting the pedal box to the chassis. Thread the jam nut onto the ⅜”x 1.25” screw provided in the quadrant box. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 146: Accelerator Cable

    From the underside, push the screw through the quadrant pedal stop mount plate and hand tighten the locknut on the screw. Accelerator Cable  ” hex key, ⅜”, ”, ½” wrenches, wire cutters.  Pedal box hardware, Accelerator cable components. ...
  • Page 147 Using a pair of wire cutters, cut the cable at the location marked. Remove and discard the included ball stud. It is for carbureted applications Push and twist the included ball stud retainer onto the end of the cable. Do not tighten the set screw yet. Insert the pedal end of the cable into the foot box.
  • Page 148: Accelerator Pedal

     The engine end will get installed later. Accelerator Pedal  ” hex key, ” wrench, pliers  OEM accelerator pedal, accelerator cable components Hold the accelerator pedal up to the mount on the ¾” tube at the front of the foot box. The higher you can mount the pedal the better the pedal will be positioned on your foot.
  • Page 149  The Accelerator cable is designed to be used with all types of engines, carbureted or fuel injected. The stock cable has the barrel end on it for the 4.6L throttle body and the ball for a Mustang accelerator pedal. Unpack the throttle pedal and separate the arms.
  • Page 150 Bolt the pedal to the mount plate using the ¼”x ¾” screws and locknuts Unpack the throttle cable and cut the cylinder end off. Make sure your cutters are very sharp so as not to fray the cable. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 151 Thread the inner cable through the cable retaining lock nut from the accelerator cable components assembly. Route the cable through the hole in the firewall and slide the sheath back over the cable. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 152: Steering System

    Tighten the cable sheath to the firewall with the retaining nut. A piece of tape on the end of the cable will help prevent it from backing out of the sheath. Check the full range of the accelerator pedal travel to ensure that there are no interferences with the pedal or travel.
  • Page 153 Loosely mount the flange bearing to the footbox front with the set screw toward the inside of the footbox. Both sides of the flange mount to the front side of the footbox plate. Loosely mount the top pillow block to the chassis with the set screw toward the rear of the car. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 154 Slide the steering shaft into the footbox from the engine bay through the lower bearing.  87-93 Power steering racks have a different spline than a manual steering rack and the 94-04 Power rack uses a “Pyramid” shaped end. All of these lower adapters are available from FFR. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 155: Steering Rack

    Steering Rack  Needle Nose Pliers, ¾” wrench, ¾” socket, Ratchet, 1.50” wrench or Adjustable wrench.  Mustang Power steering rack, Steering System Hardware 87-93 steering rack and fasteners (hydraulic lines removed). If not already in, insert the stock rubber bushings and kit spacer sleeves into the rack. Pull back the rubber boot on the inner tie rod and remove the inner tie rod from the steering rack.
  • Page 156 Use thread locker on all of the steering shaft screws that do not have jam nuts and the adapter screws. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 157  The inner Tie Rod Extensions are for stock Power Steering Racks only, not for manual steering racks.  If using the power rack and you have not already done this in the donor prep stage, cut 1.75” off the end of the inner tie rod. Put a dot of thread lock on the threads of the steering rack and attach the steering rack extension to the steering rack using a 1.50”...
  • Page 158 Put a dot of thread lock on the threads of the steering rack extension and attach the Mustang inner tie rods to the steering rack. Push the boot back onto the steering rack body and attach with zip ties. The track of the FFR Coupe front end is narrower than the Mustang. Screw in the tie rod ends until the wheels are straight.
  • Page 159  The outer tie rods may come with either a castle nut and cotter pin or a nylon locknut. Attach the tie rod to the spindle, torque the nut to 25 ft-lbs. If a castle nut is used, torque the nut then install the cotter pin.
  • Page 160: Upper Steering Shaft

    Steering rack installed. Upper Steering Shaft  ”, ”, ” hex keys, ½” wrench, rubber mallet  Steering system hardware Unpack the upper steering shaft from the primary chassis components box. Slide the steering shaft through the upper bearing and start it in the lower shaft. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 161 Turn the steering shaft so the recessed bosses for the spring washers are facing up and set the washers in place. Then tap the upper shaft down until the upper clip just disappears into the lower shaft. Tighten the upper and lower bearings. Also tighten the set screw on the upper shaft. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 162: Cockpit Aluminum

    Cockpit Aluminum  Drill, ⅛” drill bit, rivet tool, Silicone, caulking gun, #8 self tapping screws, #8 hex nut driver, ruler, marker, Acetone or carburetor cleaner, rags.  Packaged aluminum, mounted aluminum, Secondary body fasteners.  Do one panel at a time. Be careful of the sharp aluminum edges, they can cut you. Passenger Footbox Locate the passenger footbox top and drill and mark the holes in the top flat surface only.
  • Page 163 Silicone this panel where it meets the chassis and rivet along the bottom of the 2” square frame crossbar only. Use one of the original screws to temporarily hold it to the other small chassis tube. Drill the tunnel front A-shaped piece where it meets the chassis and silicone and rivet it in place. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 164 Mark and drill the two vertical edges of the passenger footbox inside wall. Silicone and rivet the panel to the front tunnel “A” and the footbox top. Mark the holes in the passenger footbox front panel upper and outer edges but do not drill yet. Silicone the panel and install with the temporary screws then drill through both panels and rivet it in place.
  • Page 165 Silicone the flanges for the passenger footbox floor then install and rivet it in place. The floor sits on top of the flanges from the footbox walls. Silicone the remaining flanges then install the outer wall/top on the footbox with rivets. Make sure the rear edge is flush to the chassis and not caught up on the door hinge before you start riveting.
  • Page 166: Passenger Floor

    Passenger Floor Drill the passenger side floor where it was marked to attach to the chassis. Mark the two front flanges but do not drill yet. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 167 Silicone the chassis where the aluminum floor will touch. The main chassis rails are not riveted to but still need a bead of silicone run along the tops. The top edge of the tunnel is not riveted yet but gets silicone as well.
  • Page 168: Driver Floor

    Driver Floor Drill silicone and install the driver’s footbox floor. The outer flange does not get drilled yet. Silicone, drill, and install the driver side floor. Drill, silicone and install the inner footbox wall. The front flange tucks in behind the front. Put a little silicone on both sides of this flange.
  • Page 169: U-Joint Cover

    U-Joint Cover Mark the rear tunnel cover where it meets the chassis then silicone and rivet it in place. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 170: Transmission Tunnel Rear Corners

    Transmission Tunnel rear corners The inner rear corner pieces tuck behind the tunnel sides and sit on top of the floor. Mark the rivet spacing on the top edge and silicone and rivet the three flanges that make contact. Cockpit rear wall Mark and drill the rear cockpit wall.
  • Page 171: Cockpit Rear Corners

    Cockpit rear corners The outer cockpit corners get marked on the bottom flange and where they meet the chassis. Drill silicone and rivet these in place. Fuel System Fuel Tank  ” deep socket, ratchet, hammer, ” hex key, floor jack, friend. ...
  • Page 172 Unpack the ¾” square plastic end caps from the secondary body fasteners. Push the four plastic end caps into the tubes hanging down in front and behind the gas tank. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 173 Hang the fuel tank straps from the rear mount of the chassis using two of the strap fasteners. The longer strap goes on the passenger side. Using a jack, raise the tank up into place on the chassis. Make sure the plastic cover is in position below the tank.
  • Page 174 Bolt the straps in with the strap fasteners and drop the jack. Tighten only the driver’s side strap as the passenger one will be removed for aluminum fitment later on. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 175: Fuel Filter

    Fuel Filter  Tube bender, ” drill bit, drill, rivet tool, marker, tape measure, flat head screwdriver, ” wrenches  Insulated clip hardware, Fuel line components, ¼”, ” fuel lines, Mustang Fuel filter and mount, Mustang tank to filter nylon hose, Mustang fuel vapor hose. ...
  • Page 176: Fuel Lines

    Fuel Lines Unpack the fuel lines and the fuel line assembly which is in the secondary chassis components box.  The larger ” line is the send fuel line to the engine. If you are running a return system then there is ¼”...
  • Page 177  The fuel line routing will depend on your style of fuel pump, whether it is in-line, in-tank, or mounted on the engine.  The most important things are: To route the lines so that they are protected by the chassis; not close to any heat source or moving parts;...
  • Page 178 From the filter we generally run the lines down the 2”x 3” tube behind the rear cockpit wall and alongside the outside of the main 4” frame tube.  Which side of the frame you run down may depend on where you are hooking up to your fuel rail, carburetor, or pressure regulator.
  • Page 179 Fasten the lines to the 2”x 2” square cockpit outriggers with the insulated line clips and ” rivets. If you are going to use the mustang Fuel vapor line, run it along with the other fuel lines. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 180: Brake System

    Brake System  Tube bender, ”, ¼” drill bits, drill, rivet gun, marker, tape measure, razor knife, round file or sand paper, brake fluid, ” hex key, ½”, ” wrenches.  Pedal box hardware, Insulated clip hardware, Brake line components, ”...
  • Page 181 Tighten all of the mounting bolts for the pedal box and master cylinder. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 182 Install the push rod from the power booster into the master cylinder and insert the white plastic bushing in the ring end. Hold the rod between the two ears of the brake light switch and slide it over the brake pedal post. Put the clip through the hole in the pedal so that the push rod will not come off.
  • Page 183: Front Flexible Brake Lines

    The small aluminum piece packed in the assembly is not used for this application. Tighten all the remaining hardware mounting the pedal box to the chassis. Front flexible brake lines Unpack the hardware from the brake line components. Lay out the various lengths of brake line so you can see what you have to work with. Like the fuel lines, there are many ways to run these lines but you must be very careful to keep them protected from moving parts, heat, or being to close to the bottom of the car.
  • Page 184: Hard Brake Lines

    Push the brake line adapters through the brackets from the outside in and install the clips that hold them in place. If removed, attach the front brake line to the caliper making sure there is a crush-washer on either side of the fitting.
  • Page 185 From the distribution block, run one of the longer 60” brake lines over to the right side brake hose mount. The line will bend very easy but be careful not to kink it. When you are happy with the routing use the small insulated line clips and ”...
  • Page 186 Run the brake line up the back of the 2”x 3” tube.  At this point your routing will depend on your rear brakes. 87-95 Mustang solid axles have a single flex line that runs to the middle of the axle then out to the calipers. Newer axles and the FFR rear brakes run the flexible brake lines direct from the chassis to the caliper (the IRS is done like this, there is an extra length of line and a T to allow similar routing to the front.) If using the 87-95 Mustang mount, drill two holes for the Mustang brake bracket on the underside of the...
  • Page 187 Attach the “T” adapter to the flexible brake line and route the hard brake line coming from the front to the “T”. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 188 Run a 60” brake line from the “T” up the ¾” tube to the front fuel tank mount tubes and over to the passenger side ¾” tube. An alternative to running it this way would be to run it across the backside of the 2”x 3”...
  • Page 189: Banjo Bolt Torque Specs

    Attach the hard brake line to the flexible brake line. Make sure that your flex lines will not interfere with anything in the suspension, wheels during travel or turning full lock to lock. Tighten the banjo bolts on the calipers Banjo bolt torque specs 87-95 Front Brake hose to caliper Banjo bolt –...
  • Page 190: Wiring Harness

    Wiring Harness  ⅜” socket, regular head screwdriver, slip joint pliers, ⅛”, ” drill bits, drill, #8 nut driver, electrical tape, wire cutters.  Misc. electrical components, wiring harness mounting hardware, insulated clip hardware  If during this section, you decide to cut your harness, wait until after the car has been started then remove sections one at a time, starting the car after each cut to make sure it runs.
  • Page 191: Rear Harness

    Rear Harness Run rear harness from the hole in the driver foot box inside wall, along inside the transmission tunnel with the battery cable and straight back to the rear of the frame. Use zip ties, insulated line clips, and the wire loom to hold the wires and battery cable.
  • Page 192: Transmission Harness

    Transmission Harness Transmission harness Push the harness plugs through the hole in the driver's side floor aluminum. Harness plug in floor aluminum Run the harness forward into the corner to the ¾” tube at the foot box front. Then go up and along the angled ¾”...
  • Page 193: Headlight Harness

    Headlight Harness The headlight harness is started at the alternator and runs forward to the passenger headlight area, then goes under the fan shroud to the driver’s side headlight area and then rearward to the coil and starter relay area. The Mustang is wider than the FFR Coupe in front and there is extra wiring between the headlights.
  • Page 194: Starter Solenoid

    The dash harness begins at the coil area and goes rearward to the large hole in the front of the driver’s side foot box. The key to routing the dash harness is to start on the inside of the foot box and push the smaller items through the large hole from the inside.
  • Page 195 Red/blue wire (+) Battery cable Yellow wire Green wire Black cable to Starter Orange/Dark Blue wire Starter Solenoid Wiring Old Starter 508-291-3443...
  • Page 196 New Starter When the wire harness is installed, mount the fuse panel (Use the diagram in Appendix A to determine the correct shape) to the 2”x 2” dash hoop support and between the two ¾” x ¾” frame tubes in the driver’s side footbox using the aluminum bracket provided and a few of the self-tapping screws.
  • Page 197: Engine Harness

    Engine Harness  ⅜” socket, regular head screwdriver, slip joint pliers, ” and ⅛” drill bits, drill, #6 nut driver, electrical tape, wire cutters.  Mustang engine harness, engine harness assembly  The aluminum is laser cut for the EFI (Electronic Fuel Injection) rubber grommets, the kit comes with block-off covers if a carbureted engine is used.
  • Page 198 Use the drilled holes and cable tie trick to hold the extra harness to the top of the passenger foot box. The harness splits into two on top of the foot box. The short, smaller harness goes forward and connects to the mass air sensor and to the harness on the engine for the O sensors and oil level sender.
  • Page 199  If you are running EFI without emissions equipment, the vacuum/electrical solenoids located on top of the foot box along with the vacuum reservoir on the firewall are not necessary. Plug the vacuum outlets on the intake remove the unused parts. Use screws provided with kit to mount the vacuum controls and BAP (Barometric Air Pressure) sensor to the firewall.
  • Page 200: Ignition And Turn Signal Stalk

    Computer ground near driver’s foot box Ignition and Turn signal stalk  Hack saw, ” socket, ” drill bits, drill.  Dash Electrical Components, Mustang ignition switch and turn signal stalk. Mount the turn signal stalk with the stalk pointed towards the seat as high as possible between the plate steel that also holds the windshield and the vertical ¾”...
  • Page 201 on the driver’s side at the rear of the trunk area. This can be used if the Coupe fuel cell kit is used. Place the battery tray, on top of the trunk floor, with half of the plate on each side of the cross brace located on the driver side of the trunk.
  • Page 202: Battery Cables

    Battery tray mounted in rear trunk corner for fuel cell. Duct tape the hooks into the holes to help in the assembly process. Place the battery onto the tray with the positive terminal on the driver’s side. One by one, wipe clean of any grease/oil on the hook bolt. Using JB Weld or silicone, cover each hook before they are inserted into the holes drilled for them.
  • Page 203: Trunk Aluminum

    If the starter solenoid was mounted behind the engine, run the cable up the transmission tunnel front wall behind where the engine will sit and to the solenoid. If the starter solenoid was mounted to the 1” tube near the master cylinder, run the cable to the front of the floor/tunnel bend and along the edge to the front of the driver’s foot box.
  • Page 204: Rear Wall

    Rear Wall  ” drill bit, silicone, rivet gun, caulk gun, ” wrench, ” hex key.  Mounted Aluminum, Packaged Aluminum, secondary body fasteners Position the panel on the frame overlapping the side wall tabs. Mark where the rivets will go by tracing around the tubes the same way previously done. Remove the panel and apply silicone to the frame and side wall tabs.
  • Page 205: Floor

    Floor With the rear taillight harness tied up and secure, silicone and install the lower trunk floor. Drivetrain Preparation Aftermarket TKO 500 and TKO 600 prep  Hack saw or Reciprocating saw, ¾” socket, ratchet  Transmission, Polyurethane engine/transmission mount kit ...
  • Page 206 Trim off the unused mounting boss on the bottom of the case. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 207: 87-93 Alternate Drive Pulley

    Trim it flush or just below the pad for the transmission mount. 87-93 Alternate Drive Pulley  ¾” socket, ¾” wrench.  Alternate drive pulley components  If you are using under-drive pulleys or eliminating the smog pump do not drill the A/C bracket according to the diagram.
  • Page 208 Place the aluminum sleeve on the bolt with the flange towards the pulley wheel, so that it slides inside the pulley. Install the bolt assembly on the A/C bracket (previously drilled in the disassembly section), using the lock nut provided. Pull the tension pulley back with a pry bar carefully and install the fan belt.
  • Page 209: Engine/Transmission Installation

    new pulley is not lined up properly and is too far in, use the arbor shims included with the kit to go between the aluminum sleeve and the pulley wheel, effectively pushing the assembly outwards. Engine/Transmission Installation  Engine hoist, chain, ¾”, ”...
  • Page 210: Driveshaft

    Tighten the transmission mount to the frame. Driveshaft  14mm wrench, thread locker  Mustang driveshaft and fasteners If not already done, the driveshaft should be shortened to the length specified in the appendix for the engine/transmission combination being used. Slip the shortened driveshaft up into the rear of the transmission.
  • Page 211 The Mustang driveshaft bolts should have thread locker on them already. If thread locker is not there, put a small bead on each bolt. Fit the driveshaft snug against the yoke and install the bolts and tighten. You can put the transmission in gear to stop the driveshaft from turning while you tighten.
  • Page 212: Fuel Lines To Engine

    Fuel Lines to engine  flat head screwdriver  Fuel line components Finish running your fuel system by hooking up either to your carburetor or fuel rail. Here we mounted a pressure regulator on the firewall and ran a single line over to the rail. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 213: Clutch Cable

    Clutch Cable  Insulated clip hardware. Route the clutch cable down to the bellhousing. Using zip ties or insulated clips tie the cable safely away from the headers and the moving steering components. It can be fastened to the engine using the bracket on the cable to the front lower bolt that holds the starter cable just before it leaves the block or, to the lower engine bay ¾”...
  • Page 214 Connect the clutch cable to the bellhousing and the clutch fork. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 215: Complete Kit Clutch Cable And Firewall Adjuster

    Complete kit Clutch Cable and Firewall Adjuster Push the firewall adjuster into the front of the footbox and attach to the front of the pedal box using the screws provided and a ” hex key and an ” wrench. Pull the rubber mount off the end of the clutch cable. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 216: Speedometer Sending Unit

    Use a razor knife, file or grinder to remove the plastic barbs from the plastic shaft. Slide the clutch cable boss through the adjuster and loop the cable over the quadrant. Speedometer Sending Unit  11mm deep socket, ratchet.  Mustang speedometer sending unit.
  • Page 217 Put a little oil on the o-ring and install the sender in your transmission. Use the original bolt to hold the sending unit in place. Plug the wire harness connector into the sender. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 218: Accelerator Cable

    Accelerator Cable  ” hex key, ⅜”, ” wrenches  Insulated clip hardware. Fuel Injected application Attach the engine end of the cable sheath to the cable mount on the intake using ⅜” and ” wrenches. Put a dab of silicone on the rear edge of the rubber wipe then push the rubber wipe back onto the threads.
  • Page 219: Carbureted Applications

    Stop tab on accelerator pedal. After driving the car for the first time you may want to adjust the pedal locations for optimum heal/toe and shoe size differences. Make sure the accelerator cable is tied up and out of the way of moving or hot parts as well. Carbureted applications Attach the cable sheath to your cable mount on the engine.
  • Page 220: Mass Air Meter, Air Filter And Intake Hose

    Attach the engine end of the cable sheath to the cable mount on the engine using ⅜” and ” wrenches and push the cable wiper onto the remaining threads. Push the ball stud retainer onto the ball stud. Push/pull the cable into the retainer so that the cable is tight. Tighten the set screw in the retainer using a ”...
  • Page 221: Fuel Vapor Canister

    Bolt the ground strap to the hole and then run the other end to a boss on the block. In this case we used an engine mount bolt. Fuel Vapor Canister  Drill, ” drill bit, ⅜” socket  Wire harness mounting hardware, Mustang Fuel vapor canister 508-291-3443...
  • Page 222: Cooling System

     The emissions canister can be mounted to the right side of the engine bay on outside of the 1” horizontal tubing just behind the mass air meter. Drill two ” holes through the canister bracket OEM holes. Mount with two #14 screws. Attach the vent hose from the gas tank to the canister and the hose leading to the engine.
  • Page 223 Angle the lower mounting tabs at a 45 angle outward then adjust them so that the mounting bolts will again go through the flange and the nut will go on the bolt. Mark the upper and lower mount tab holes on the radiator flanges. Mark where the lower mount tabs can be trimmed.
  • Page 224: Radiator Mounting

    Trim the excess off the lower fan mount tabs. Attach the fan to the radiator using the black #10 x 1” screws on the top and the #10 x ” screws on the bottom.  Make sure that the fan blades do not hit the sides of the fan housing once the fan is attached to the shroud.
  • Page 225 Install the radiator from above the frame. Attach some stick on weather stripping to the underside of the radiator top mount bracket. Position the top mount bracket so that the small tab sticking up is on the rearward side of the bracket. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 226: Radiator Aluminum

    While holding the bracket on top of the radiator, mark the location of the mount bracket holes on the 1”x 1” tubes. Do not let the end of the bracket overhang the tube, another piece of aluminum will be attached to the outside of the tube later (see picture below). Remove the top mount bracket and drill through the 1”x 1”...
  • Page 227 Large radiator duct mounted. Insert the radiator duct aluminum from behind the radiator. Attach the driver and passenger side duct brackets to the top of the 1”x 1” tubes and the sides of the main duct using ⅛” rivets and Silicone. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 228 Passenger side bracket Driver side bracket 508-291-3443...
  • Page 229: Stainless Radiator Hoses

    Stainless Radiator Hoses Unpack the stainless radiator hose kit and remove the hose connectors from the boxes. Use the smaller sections of tube inside the adapters to fit them to smaller fittings on the radiator and intake. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 230 Then fit the larger adapters over them. Upper radiator hose Start at the engine and route the tube along the top of the passenger side duct bracket. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 231 The kit includes a remote fill adapter that should be installed at the highest point in the cooling system which is the return hose back to the radiator. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 232: Fan Wiring

    Mark the tube where it needs to be cut so that the tube will just touch the attaching location. Remove the tube from the vehicle. Cut the tube using a hack saw or if available a cut-off wheel. If necessary clean the end up with tin snips or a grinder.
  • Page 233  Fan mounting components, dash electrical components  There are a few ways to run the electric fan. The kit includes a relay, wiring, and a thermostat switch to get used with the relay to turn the fan on and off at 185°F. The alternative way is to use the relay with a dash mounted on/off switch Dash mounted on/off switch ...
  • Page 234 Ground the black electric fan wire to the frame. Connect the other electric fan wire to the #87 tab on the fan relay. Attach the #85 ground tab to the thermostat switch. Connect the #86 and #30 tabs to a +12V 30A fuse in the fuse panel. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 235: Emergency Brake

    Emergency Brake  ½” deep socket, ” hex key, marker, scissors, hacksaw.  Mustang E-brake handle, brake line components Push the U-nuts from the brake line components onto the E-brake handle. Bolt the handle to the mount bracket using the kit fasteners. The holes are slotted so the handle can get positioned properly to allow room for your hand around the handle.
  • Page 236  Your E-brake cables should be from the same car as your rear brakes.  87-92 Mustang cables or the FFR cables mount to the bracket up near the 2”x 3” tube. Route the cables through the upper bracket in the transmission tunnel until the sheath end clicks in place. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 237 Route the inner cable down under the chassis and hook them to the T cable. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 238: Emergency Brake Boot

    Route the remaining cable back to the calipers and attach. Make sure your routing is out of the way of any moving parts and the cable has slack to move with the axle. Pull up on the handle a few times to make sure the self tensioner works and there are no problems with the cable.
  • Page 239: Interior Aluminum

    Interior Aluminum Transmission Tunnel Cover  Drill, ⅛” drill bit, Silicone, Caulking gun, Rivet gun  Secondary Body Fasteners Components, Packaged Aluminum, mounted aluminum Remove the seats, roll bar, and harnesses and silicone and install the transmission tunnel top. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 240 Silicone and install the shifter hole cover. Make sure it does not interfere with the movement of the shift lever. Silicone and install the tunnel plug patch panel if not using the Mustang transmission harness. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 241: Driver Footbox

    Driver Footbox Silicone and install the front patch panel. Seats Harness  ¾” wrench, ¾” socket, ½” drill bit, drill, ratchet  Seat Harness/Fasteners Unpack the seat harnesses and hardware. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 242 Bolt the lap harness in position. Remove the mounting tab from the harness. Loop the harness over the roll bar crossbar. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 243  The shoulder harnesses are side specific so make sure you have the sides correct. Follow the manufacturer’s directions inside the seat harness boxes on how to loop the harness straps through the slider bracket. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 244: Shifter Handle And Boot

    Adjust the harnesses to where they fit you comfortably. Shifter Handle and Boot  ½” wrench, ⅛”drill bit, drill, Phillips head screwdriver, marker, thread lock  Shifter handle components Unpack the shift handle and bolt it to the transmission. These bolts have a tendency to rattle loose so use a little thread locker.
  • Page 245 Push the boot and trim rind down over the handle so it sits flush on the tunnel. Using a silver marker or white paint marker, mark your screw holes on the tunnel. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 246 Remove the boot and drill ⅛” holes in the spots you marked. Re-install the boot and screw down to the tunnel with the countersunk screws. A small screwdriver can help to locate the holes. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 247 Screw the two piece knob onto the shift handle and tighten so the shift pattern is in the correct orientation. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 248: Seats

    Seats  ” drill bit, drill, ” hex key, ½” deep socket, marker  Seat mount hardware, seats  These instructions show the install of the more popular Roadster street seat. Racing seats with less padding give more room, the more upright the angle of the seat the more room to straighten out your legs.
  • Page 249 Using the rivet heads as a guide mark where the rails of the seat frame are above the seat mounting plates. Drill the first hole for the seat mounting and install the bolt. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 250: Nameplate

    Drill the remaining holes for mounting the seats and install the bolts. Nameplate  ” drill bit, rivet gun, drill 508-291-3443...
  • Page 251: Steering Wheel

    Secondary body fasteners, certificate of origin envelope  Factory Five Racing has included a Certificate of Origin along with a Nameplate for your kit. The serial number from the Certificate of Origin matches the number engraved on the 2”x 2”...
  • Page 252 Bolt the steering wheel to the boss. The pattern is not symmetrical so it will only line up in one direction. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 253 Bolt the steering wheel assembly to the steering shaft. Use thread-locker on this bolt. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 254: Rolling Chassis Check

    Rolling Chassis Check Front Suspension Now is a good time to double check all your hardware, make sure your wiring and hoses are away from extreme heat and moving parts, make sure the steering turns freely lock to lock, and make sure your brake flex lines have enough slack for the full range of wheel movement.
  • Page 255 Transmission Fill the transmission with fluid and install the shifter assembly. Leave the shift handle and knob off for now. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 256 Engine Fill the engine with Oil and coolant. Both these fluids should be rechecked after you have started the engine for the first time. Make sure there is some coolant in the overflow to start out, about full is good. Get the engine up to temperature and check for leaks and make sure the fan is working.
  • Page 257 Suspension All of the suspension and steering components that have grease fitting need to be greased. With a grease gun squeeze grease into each fitting on all the control arms, including rear lowers on a slid axle, and tie rods. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 258: Rattle Patrol

    Power Steering System Bleeding  If not running power steering, skip this section. Raise the front wheels off the ground if they are not already Turn the steering wheel all the way to the left. Fill the reservoir to the full cold level and leave the cap off. Turn the steering wheel lock to lock 20 times checking the fluid level every few times.
  • Page 259: Left Footbox Aluminum

    If you just can’t get comfortable with the standard configuration some things you can do to increase room or comfort include:  Trim the pedal pads for more room between pedals.  Cut down or remove altogether the gas pedal pad. ...
  • Page 260: Body Section

    Chapter Body Section 508-291-3443...
  • Page 261: Weatherstrip

    The Body and panel mounting are a critical part of how your car will end up looking when it is finished. Whether you are having a body shop paint your car or doing it yourself, the best results will be from fully mounting the body, all the panels and getting them to fit properly and then removing the body for the paint process.
  • Page 262: Body Mounting

    The push-on weather strip needs to run across the top of the firewall. Body Mounting  Gloves  Body  The body will be trial fit/adjusted along with the doors to ensure everything fits before the body and parts are painted. All of the trim accessories will also be trial fit/adjusted. Since the rear clip is one piece, get two people to help when you’re ready to position the body onto the frame.
  • Page 263 Pull the sides of the body out to clear the frame. Watching the rear of the frame, move the body forward slowly lowering the front. Watch the door latch posts. Pull the body out to get around the hinges. Move forward until the rear hatch tubing is lined up with the lip on the body and put the body down in place.
  • Page 264: Tail Lights

    Tail lights  Drill, 1¼” hole saw, ” drill bit, ⅜” socket, flat head screwdriver, razor knife, marker, ruler, level.  Tail light template, tail lights and hardware.  Be careful with the lenses, they are glass and can break if dropped from a fairly low height. The rear taillights double as the rear body mount.
  • Page 265: Side Body Mounts

    The lights mount from the outside of the body without the lenses and trim rings in place. Test fit the lights. You may have to bend the ground tab slightly or file away a bit at the hole to make it fit perfectly.
  • Page 266: Body Cut-Outs

    Side rear body mount. Body Cut-outs Fuel filler  Drill, ⅛”, ” drill bit, 3½” hole saw or air saw or jig saw, masking tape, scissors.  Fuel filler template, Aston Lemans Cap components. Locate the template in the appendix and only cut out around the outside diameter of the circle. Tape the circle in the gas cap recess of the body.
  • Page 267 Use a ⅛” drill bit for all except one of the outer screw holes. Use a ” bit drill for the last small hole. Use a 3½” hole saw for the center opening, drill out the holes for the filler. If you do not have a hole saw this size, you can cut the center circle out of the template and use the remaining template to mark for a jig-saw instead.
  • Page 268: Side Exhaust

    Side exhaust  Air saw or jig saw.  Side exhaust template Cut out the side exhaust template. The template goes down to the top edge of the body. Tape or hold the template and mark around it with a pen. Use a jigsaw to cut out the marked area.
  • Page 269: Radiator Exit Opening

    Radiator Exit opening  Air saw or jig saw. Use a jigsaw to cut out the area. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 270: Turn Signal

    Turn Signal  Drill, 1” hole saw, marker.  Turn signal template, front turn signal light Only cut the outer lines of the shapes out. Position templates on the body in their correct locations and tape in place. Drill the holes with a 1” hole saw. Test fit a light and adjust if needed.
  • Page 271 Cut the center of the template out and trace the inner circle with a marker. Drill the two smaller corner holes with a ¼” drill bit to mark their location. Follow this with a ” drill bit. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 272 Using a jig saw, cut the inner hole out of the body, use a larger drill bit to make a hole to start your cut. Test fit the light bucket and rubber gasket making sure that they sit flat and the bucket is centered on the fender.
  • Page 273: Side Louver

    Side louver  Drill, ½” drill bit, jig saw or air saw At the corners of the louver indentation, use a ½” Drill bit. Use a jigsaw or hacksaw for the straight edges. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 274: Hood Latch

    Hood Latch  ” drill bit, drill, ⅛” hex key, ”, ” wrench, ” deep socket, jig saw, marker, chassis grease, rivet gun, masking tape.  Nose/trunk fastener assembly Open the latches and apply a little bit of chassis grease to the sides of the latch. Work the latches a few times to help loosen them up.
  • Page 275 Cut the area for the latch on the nose leaving the lower finger recess for the bottom of the latch. Tape the outside of the body around the latch area. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 276 Position the latch from the backside of the body. Make sure the latch looks straight in the cutout and compared to the rear edge of the nose. Drill ” holes for the mounting screws. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 277 Mount the latches to the nose. Use the washers on the backside of the body. Attach the “U” bolts to the nose latch striker mounts on the frame. Do not tighten them yet. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 278: Nose Mounting

    Nose Mounting Hinge Nose Bracket  ” drill bit, drill, ” hex key, ½” wrench, tape measure, marker.  Nose/trunk fastener assembly, body, Mustang fog lights.  Have some help when doing this step. The fiberglass edges can be very sharp. Wear gloves when lifting or holding the body.
  • Page 279 Line the hinge plates up against the openings with the angled supports as vertical as possible. These need to be as vertical as possible to prevent binding in the hinge. Mark the brackets through the mount holes. Remove and drill the hinge brackets. Bolt the hinge brackets in position.
  • Page 280 Raise or lower the front of the nose so that the bottom edge of the hood is parallel with the bottom edge of the body above the exhaust area. Align the rear of the wheel well of the nose with the front of the body. Move the nose around so there is a small gap (i.e.
  • Page 281 Either through the nose or from under the car, look at the alignment of the rod ends and the location of the rod ends (left to right) in the brackets. Screw the rod ends in/out as necessary to align the hole with the slots. The nose gaps may also have to be adjusted.
  • Page 282 With the frame at 4” ride height in the front and the help of a friend, open the nose until the Fog light area of the nose is parallel with the ground. Use a ratchet strap or some rope to hold the nose in this position until the struts are in place.
  • Page 283: Nose Side Locator Brackets

    Nose Side Locator Brackets  Drill, ⅛”, ⅜” drill bit, 1.25” hole saw, rivet gun, silicone, ” hex key, ” wrench.  Nose locator bracket assembly, secondary body fastener assembly Hold the outside of the nose behind the wheel opening so that it is flush with the lower part of the body. Clamp or hold the nose so that it will not move while drilling the locator hole.
  • Page 284: Scoops

    Underside view, nose locator mounted Scoops  Sandpaper, ⅛” drill bit, drill, marker  Coupe scoops  The original Coupe had three scoops, two small ones mounted on the body and one larger one mounted on the nose. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 285 508-291-3443...
  • Page 286: Rear Spoiler

    Hold the scoops up to the body in the locations desired and sand or cut the outside of them as needed to fit in the location. Make sure to keep about ½” of flange for the ⅛” rivets that will hold them on. Mark the rivet locations on the scoop flanges.
  • Page 287: Radiator Aluminum

    Radiator Aluminum  Drill, ¼” Nut driver, ⅛”, ” drill bits, rivet tool, floor jack, marker, ruler, silicone, caulk gun.  Secondary body fasteners, engine bay aluminum.  Use care when handling aluminum, the edges are sharp and can cut you. Rivet and silicone the radiator side aluminum to the center air duct panel.
  • Page 288 From the secondary body fastener assembly, use some press-on weather stripping on the three top sides, the sides that will contact the radiator, and along the lower front edge of the large radiator duct. Insert the radiator duct aluminum from behind the radiator. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 289 Attach the driver and passenger side duct brackets to the top of the 1”x 1” tubes and the sides of the main duct using ⅛” rivets and Silicone. Passenger side bracket Driver side bracket 508-291-3443...
  • Page 290: Exhaust

    Exhaust  ½” sockets, ½” wrench, jack stands, jack, ¼”, ” hex key.  Headers, side exhaust, locktite.  Try not to drop the side exhaust assembly as it will probably land on the outer curved surface and dent (if it sounds like this has happened to us, it has). ...
  • Page 291: Side Exhaust

    Slide the band clamps for the side pipes onto the headers. The small diameter goes first. Side Exhaust Cut the large exhaust hanger in half lengthwise. Attach one half of the rubber exhaust mount to the side pipe mount using a ”x 1.5”...
  • Page 292: Windshield Area

    Mount the side Exhaust mount to the frame using four ” long rivets. Bolt through the top hole of the rubber and the frame bracket using a ”x 1.5” button head screw. Line the bottom hole up with the slot on the side exhaust and tighten the bolt. White painted side exhaust mounted.
  • Page 293: Doors

    On the inside of the body at the center of the car, there is a body mount in the middle at the top and bottom of the windshield. Use the windshield mount spacers in these areas between the frame and the body.
  • Page 294 Using a jig saw or other reciprocating saw cut out the area traced. Draw a line ⅝” from the edge of the recessed area on the inside of each door. Drill a ⅜” hole in one corner and use this as a starting point to begin cutting. Cut and remove the inside face of the recessed area.
  • Page 295: Door Handle

    Attach the latch to the door frame using the 3 Phillips head screws. Door handle  Drill, ”, ” drill bits, drill, rivet tool, air saw or jig saw, Philips screwdriver, marker, scissors.  Interior door handle components, secondary body fasteners Attach the cylinder end of the door handle cable to the door handle by inserting it into the slot and pushing the cable sleeve into the recess area.
  • Page 296 Push the other end of the cable into the cable mount tab. Place the clevis on the end of the cable and attach it to the door latch using the black button head screw. Tighten the screw enough so that the clevis is not sloppy but so that it can rotate on the latch. Locate the mount tab on the door frame so that the cable has no slack in it and so it will not get in the way of the door skin.
  • Page 297 Using a straight edge draw a line along the top and bottom edges of the recessed area. Draw a line parallel to this line ⅝” above the top line and ¾” below the bottom line. Mark the door for drilling using the diagram for locations. Drill through the door and frame with a ”...
  • Page 298 Remove the clamps. Move the door handle around inside the door and find an approximate location that you would like to mount the handle. Make sure that the cable will be able to reach.  Do not go forward of the cut out in the door as this will hit the window frame. Mark the location on the door.
  • Page 299: Door Hinge

    Through the hole, insert the cable barrel fitting into its hole and slide cable sheath end in into the angled slot. Mount the handle using the #8 sheet metal screws. Door hinge Using the door hinge diagram in the appendix, mark the cut out locations on the body as shown. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 300 Drill a ⅜” hole in each of the cut out locations and cut out with a jig saw. Install the adjuster plates to the frame using the ⅜” square head bolts with nuts and washers but do not tighten yet. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 301 Press the bronze bushings into the ½” holes in the hinge arms. Attach the hinge arm assembly to the adjuster plate using the 2” shoulder bolts, washers and ” nuts. It makes installing the shoulder bolts a bit easier if you grind an angle on the end of the shoulder instead of having it square.
  • Page 302 Tighten the nuts down until the arm is hard to move and then loosen slightly.  If you tighten the nut tight and you can still rotate the hinge easily then the washer is caught on the shoulder. Loosen slightly, adjust the washer and retighten. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 303 Hinge arm mounted to adjuster plate. (NOTE: this photo was taken before the door was mounted to the frame to clearly illustrate the frame mounting procedure) Attach the doors to the hinge arms using ⅜” lock nuts and washers. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 304: Striker Mounting

    Align the door in the opening with ” spacers under it. Tighten the nuts in the door, check the alignment, then tighten the nuts holding the adjuster plate. Check door gaps and movement, adjust if necessary. Striker Mounting From inside the rear wheel well use an ⅛” drill bit through the center of the door latch striker mount to drill through the body.
  • Page 305 Use a jig saw to cut out the area marked on the door. Attach the latch striker to the mount plate on the frame using two ⅜” washers next to the striker flange to space it out and one washer next to the locknut. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 306: Firewall Extension Aluminum

    Firewall Extension Aluminum  Marker, drill, ¼” hex drive bit, tin snips  Self tapping sheet metal screws, Engine bay packaged aluminum. Insert the aluminum pieces outside first into the area between the body and the footboxes in the engine bay and hold in place.
  • Page 307 Right side Left side 508-291-3443...
  • Page 308: Side Windows

    Side Windows  ” drill bit, drill, ⅛” hex key, ” wrench, marker, hacksaw blade, Phillips head screwdriver.  Side window assembly, secondary body fasteners assembly.  The driver is different than the passenger side window, the driver side is ”...
  • Page 309 Front window frame mount. Remove the window and drill the mounting holes with a ” drill bit. Cut a slot in the recess at the top rear of the door for the rear weather strip mount (looks like a number “1”) using a hack saw blade.
  • Page 310: Rear Quarter Windows

    Top of weather strip mount. Push the rubber on side weather stripping onto the flange going around the door opening. The window tracks mount on the outside of the window. Push the “U” window weather stripping onto each of the side windows. The weather stripping may have to have a “V”...
  • Page 311: Rear Hatch

     A drill bit designed for plastic with a 60° point instead of the standard 118° or 135° point will reduce the chance of cracking during drilling. They can be found at in their specialty drill bit section. Put masking tape on the front edge of the quarter window. Open the door.
  • Page 312 Attach the Latch striker square bolt to the frame using the locknuts and washers provided. Leave it adjusted as high as possible. Do not tighten it down yet it will need some adjustment. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 313: Hatch Hinge

    Hatch Hinge 508-291-3443...
  • Page 314  ”, ”, ” wrench, ⅛”, ” hex key, marker, drill, ”, ” drill bit, hack saw, Philips head screwdriver, ruler, Friend  Rear glass hatch components, glass hatch. Push the large 1.32” rubber washers onto the large button studs. From the outside of the glass, push the Large button studs through the hinge holes in the glass hatch Push another large 1.32”...
  • Page 315 Push the small button studs through the holes on the sides of the glass. Push the medium 0.922” rubber washers onto the small button studs on the inside of the glass. Put a washer on the small button stud. Carefully thread on and tighten a jam nut on the bottom of the small button stud. Thread on and tighten a ball stud on the small button stud.
  • Page 316 Push plastic bushings into both sides of the hatch frame hinge bracket. Use a vise to push them in evenly if necessary. Insert the bronze bushings into the frame mounts on the roll bar. From the inside of the rollbar, attach the frame side hatch hinge arm using the shoulder bolt and ”...
  • Page 317 Rotate the hinge arm up so that it touches the body and mark the body where it hits. Use a ” drill bit to drill a hole just below the rear hatch flange. Cut the sides of the hole with a hack saw so the hinge arm has clearance. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 318: Hatch Struts

    Hatch Struts The strut bracket should be positioned with the bracket starting ⅜” from the top corner of the hatch support area. The bracket should be on the inside of the hatch area with the strut ball pointing in. Make sure all of the mount holes land on the tube.
  • Page 319: Hatch

    Hatch With the help of a friend, place the glass hatch in the opening. Locate the glass so that the gap is even all the way around the hatch opening. Use coins or washers, etc… along the bottom and sides so that the hatch is held in position. The hatch should be flush with the body.
  • Page 320 Carefully try opening the hatch. Attach the rod side of the gas strut to the ball stud mounted on the hatch. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 321 Remove the hatch by unbolting the two halves of the hinge arms. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 322: Final Prep

    Final Prep  Sand paper  All of the exterior body accessories, Windshield and side exhaust must be mounted to the car to obtain the correct body location in order to create the correct gaps and opening sizes on the car before it is painted.
  • Page 323: Body Painting

    Tape some sheets of newspaper or large pieces of paper together matching the size of the Headliner. The paper will be used as a template for the headliner. Put some clean rags on the ground to prevent scratching the roof of the body. With the help of a friend, turn the body upside down and place the roof on the rags.
  • Page 324: Final Assembly

    Chapter Final Assembly 508-291-3443...
  • Page 325: Headlights

    Headlights  Phillips head screwdriver, drill, ” drill bit  Headlight components Unpack the headlight mounting assembly. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 326 13420 13418 13419 13415 13416 Screw the adjuster screws about halfway into the buckets. Push the grommet into the side of the bucket. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 327 Run the light plug harness through from the inside. Line up the headlight with the bucket to get the proper orientation. The bottom of the bucket is the only screw boss that comes in from the side and the writing on the headlight should be right side up. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 328 Screw the mounting flange onto the light with the 3 small tabs and small screws. The tabs are bent to fit around the bosses on the light. Put the gasket on the bucket with the adjuster bosses poking through the 2 larger holes. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 329 Temporarily put the bucket in the hole. The trim ring is held on by a screw on the bottom. Mark the bottom of the headlight area where the screw mount is. Remove the bucket and drill a ” hole through the bottom of the bucket. Screw the bucket to the body using the screw that came in the mounting assembly.
  • Page 330: Headlight Alignment

    Headlight Alignment  Masking tape, marker, tape measure  Make sure that the car is at the correct ride height before the alignment procedure is done. Ride height should be 4½” at the front and 4½” at the back measured to the bottom of the 4” round tube with the normal number of people/weight in the car.
  • Page 331 Make the following two measurements: Measurement A: From the ground to the geometric center of one of the headlight lenses Measurement B: From one of the low beam headlights to the vehicle centerline. (Also measure from high beam center to vehicle centerline for 4 headlight systems) Note these measurements.
  • Page 332: Trim Ring

    Turn the headlights on and adjust the vertical aim of the headlights so that the top horizontal cutoff of each of the beams is located along the horizontal line drawn on the wall. Adjust the horizontal aim of the low beam headlights so that the point at which the top cutoff of the beam begins to slope upwards is located at the vertical marks.
  • Page 333: Turn Signals

    Turn Signals  ” deep socket, ratchet  Amber front turn signal lights Screw the turn signal lights into their holes. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 334: Headlight Covers

    Headlight Covers  Drill, ⅛” drill bit, Philips head screwdriver, masking tape, marker, ruler, and sandpaper.  Headlamp covers/fasteners Stick masking tape around the edge of the headlight bucket so the paint will not be scratched. Position the headlight cover in the opening with your hands as shown in the picture. Only press down at four points on the cover.
  • Page 335: Gas Cap

    Reposition the cover carefully, the tabs may need additional bending to match the surface of the plastic. Drill and rivet the tabs to the headlight bucket. Drill and Mark the location of the tab holes on the cover. Drill the holes marked for the mounting screws. Remove the masking tape from the body.
  • Page 336 Unpack the fuel cap and mounting hardware. Put the gasket on the bottom surface of the cap. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 337 Set the cap on the body and screw in using 5 of the countersunk screws. Leave the inside most forward hole open. The one remaining cap fastener is a longer screw and nut used for the ground strap, screw it in from the top then put the ground strap washer and nut on from underneath.
  • Page 338: Side Louver Mesh

    Side Louver mesh  Silicone, caulking gun, duct tape  Side Louver mesh Position the mesh screen behind the louver cut-out area on the nose. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 339 Apply silicone around the cut-out area on the nose that the mesh will touch. Duct tape around the outside of the mesh. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 340: Weatherstripping

    Line up the mesh on the nose and tape them in place to hold them until the silicone dries (usually over night). Weatherstripping  Razor knife, tin snips  Secondary body fasteners Replace any weatherstrip that was damaged during body removal. Put additional weatherstrip on the frame where gap areas were noted before paint.
  • Page 341: Final Tail Light Install

    Pull the sides of the body out to clear the frame. Watching the rear of the frame, move the body forward slowly lowering the front. Watch the door latch posts. Move forward until the rear hatch tubing is lined up with the lip on the body and put the body down in place.
  • Page 342: Side Body Mounts

    Side body mounts  Drill, ” drill bit, ” hex key, ½” wrench, marker, ruler.  Secondary body fasteners The body sides are mounted using four stainless ”x 1” bolts with a washer next to the head. The rear most side body mount needs ”...
  • Page 343: Fuel Filler Neck

    Side rear body mount. Fuel Filler Neck  Razor knife, ⅜” socket, ratchet, ” drill bit, drill  Aston Lemans Cap components Ground the fuel filler strap to the chassis using the screw that came in the cap hardware.  This wire prevents any static charge build-up and must be used.
  • Page 344 Attach the 2” fuel filler hose to the bottom section of the Mustang filler neck. Stock fuel tank filler neck with extension. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 345 Optional Stainless Steel filler neck with extension. Install the hose between the filler neck and gas cap with the clamps that came in the cap hardware. Screw the plastic gas cap into the Aston Lemans style cap. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 346: Nose Mounting

    Nose mounting Re-install the hinge brackets on the nose. Replace the bumpers you used before on the body to line up the nose. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 347: Door Final Fit

    Re-Install the hood and latches. Door final fit  ½” deep socket, (2) 9/16” wrenches, ”, ” hex key, Phillips head screwdriver, masking tape.  Take your time to align the doors properly. Hinge Reattach the door hinge to the frame. Attach the door frame to the door hinge using the fasteners provided.
  • Page 348: Door

    Door Use masking tape around the body opening to prevent scratching or chipping. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 349: Handles

    Bolt the door skin to the door frame using the 1½” long ” screws. If washers were used to space the skin away from the steel don’t forget to put them on the screws. Slowly try closing the door. Adjust the hinge if necessary. Handles Remount the door handles and latch cables.
  • Page 350: Rear Front Splash Guards

    Rear front splash guards Position the rear front splash panels so that they are flat against the rear cockpit wall and the corner is against the aluminum panels. Hold the panels in place with #6 screws. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 351: Headlight/Turn Signal Wiring

    Use a marker and ruler to mark the rivet holes on the aluminum panel. Note where the panels touch each other and where they touch the frame. Remove the panels. Apply silicone to the upper splash panels. Install the upper splash panels with #6 screws. Apply silicone to where the lower splash panels touch.
  • Page 352: License Plate Light And Bracket

    This kit is only a collection of parts. Applying the license plate bracket does not mean that this vehicle is street legal. Factory Five Racing does not build completed or partially completed street vehicles. If you choose to title, register and operate your kit on public roads, you are responsible for ensuring that the vehicle you build complies with all Federal, Sate and local laws regarding its use.
  • Page 353 Use the license plate bracket as a template for the mounting screws. Use a level to make sure the bracket is level since there are no straight lines on the rear of the car. Use a ¼” drill bit for the mount screws. Attach the bracket to the body using the two flat head screws and nuts.
  • Page 354: Windshield

    Windshield  Windshield assembly.  Handle the windshield with care and store in a safe place.  We highly recommend having a professional windshield installation shop do this installation. Most glass shops prefer to use their own weather strip and materials to install the glass since they warranty the installation.
  • Page 355 Prime the windshield flange for the urethane. Apply urethane around the windshield flange. Attach the weather stripping to the windshield. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 356 Push the windshield into place. Do not move/touch the windshield for 24 hours. Windshield mounted on the body. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 357: Final Hatch Mounting

    Final Hatch Mounting  Razor knife, ½” socket, ratchet.  Secondary body fasteners. The rear hatch uses the weather stripping that has two legs on it, one longer than the other and has no adhesive on the back. Press the double stick tape around the rear hatch recess area. Starting at the bottom in the middle, press the weather stripping onto the double stick tape with the longer leg towards the inside of the hatch to help prevent water getting to the hatch area.
  • Page 358 for a cleaner wiring set-up. Mount the gauges in the dash before connecting the gauges to the engine.  The dash has been cut for the larger Vintage style gauge Speedometer and Tach. If using the Autometer gauges, use the Autometer gauge mount plate for the large gauges. ...
  • Page 359 Attach the dash sides to the dash. Push some of the push-on weather-stripping onto the top edge of the dash sides and around the front edge of the dash. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 360 Position the dash in the cockpit. Mark four screw locations across the front face of the dash along the top, for the mounting screws and two in each of the dash side pieces into the 2”x 2” tube. Use the self-tapping #6 screws to screw the dash to the ¾”x ¾” dash support. The final mount screws are the same size.
  • Page 361: Lower Switch Panel

    Lower Switch Panel  Decide the layout of the lower switch panel. Below is the layout we chose. If installing a radio keep it in mind as well.  The layout shown uses optional switches that are included in the carbureted harness option and wiper option.
  • Page 362: Gauges

    Side of switch panel riveted to transmission tunnel. Gauges  The electrical hook-ups for the gauges referenced in these instructions are provided for all years, where there are differences the different years are indicated. For 5.0L cars, the pin numbers are for 1990-1993 donor cars only! 1989 or earlier cars have different wire positions within the gauge cluster plugs.
  • Page 363 Remove the dash from the car. Remove the gauges from the dash. Cover/coat the dash, a matte finish or non-reflective finish is suggested. We chose spray on truck bed liner from Wal-Mart for its finish and ease of use. Powder coating would also be a good choice. Make sure to prep the surface properly before covering so it will not peal off.
  • Page 364 Starting at the 4” mark, place one of the drilled tap connectors on the wire along with one of the 8” wires. Center the 8” wire on the connector and squeeze the connector with a pair of pliers. Snap the cover on the connector with your fingers.
  • Page 365 Wire leads for dash lights and Speedo Use zip ties from the kit to tie all three wires together. Attach the loose end of the red wire to the Mustang gauge gray plug pin #7 (Warning Lamps Feed). Attach the loose end of the blue wire to the Mustang brown gauge plug pin #11. Attach the loose end of the black wire to the Mustang gray gauge plug pin #14.
  • Page 366 Ring connector attached to gauge light ground and wire harness ground. Wire the Tach lighting when wiring the remainder of the Tach. If after hooking everything up, there are no lights or they are dim, check the Mustang dimmer switch for adjustment.
  • Page 367 Pick a color wire for the sending unit wire and connect it to the gauge using a ring connector. Attach the other end of the same color wire to the Mustang Brown plug #8 (Oil pressure feed). Oil Temperature Gauge There are many ways to mount the oil temperature sending unit.
  • Page 368 Pick a color wire for the sending unit wire and connect it to the gauge using a ring connector. Attach the other end of the same color wire to the Mustang Brown plug # 10 (gas tank sending unit). Battery Charging In order for the battery to charge, solder a 510 OHM resistor between the wires on the red light forming an H with the 2 wires.
  • Page 369: Interior Rearview Mirror

    Rivet the panels to the chassis and then use the trim screws to attach them to the bottom of the dash. Install the Mustang headlight and hazard switches in the aluminum brackets. Interior Rearview Mirror  Tape measure, marker, windshield rearview mirror glue, hex key set. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 370: Side Mirror

     Mustang interior rearview mirror. Use a ruler and marker pen to mark the center of the top windshield area mount on the windshield. Hold the mirror in place to find the best location up/down and mark this on the windshield. Follow the directions on the glue for attaching the mount to the windshield.
  • Page 371 Disassemble the mirror, removing the large base from the stand. The large base is replaced by the smaller insert and gasket. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 372 Temporarily bolt the mirror back together with the small insert. Sit in the seat to find a good location you can see it from and see clearly over the rear fender. Mark the location and use the gasket to locate and drill the mounting holes. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 373 Disassemble the mirror and bolt the mounting insert with mounting bolt and the gasket to the body. Slide the stand-off and upper gasket down the bolt and onto the mounting bracket. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 374 Bolt the main body of the mirror to the mounting stand-off. Screw the mirror into the body and adjust it before tightening. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 375: Check Straps

    Check straps  ” drill bit, drill, rivet tool, marker  Secondary body fasteners, door latch/hinge components Unpack the door check-straps. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 376: Steering Wheel Center Section

    Sitting inside with the door closed, hold the check straps up to the door and the 2”x 2” tube and position the strap so that it will hit the framework in the door. Use a marker and one of the check straps to mark the two mounting holes on the middle of the inside face of the 2”x 2”...
  • Page 377 With the steering wheel in the position that is most comfortable for you tighten the set screws on the collar of the upper steering bearing. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 378: Side Exhaust

    Optional leather steering wheel. Side Exhaust  ” Hex key, ⅜”, ½”socket, ratchet  Side Exhaust Remount the side exhaust. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 379: Aluminum Splash Guards

    Aluminum Splash guards  ⅛”, ” drill bit, drill, rivet gun, silicone, caulking gun, ¾” socket, ratchet, extension, marker, clamps  Secondary body fasteners, packaged aluminum, front wheel and tire Front Wheel With the nose up, put a wheel and tire on the front and turn the steering so that the rear of the tire is as close as possible to the frame.
  • Page 380 Adjust the clamp on the frame so that the aluminum splash guard will not contact the tire. Put some of the press-on bulb seal around the outside edge of the upper aluminum splash guards. Clamp the splashguard up against the nose. The upper splashguard attaches to the side of the nose radiator opening and the lower outside of the wheel well.
  • Page 381 Make sure that the nose and the body sides are aligned with each other. Look at the two splash guard pieces and move them forward or back so they are aligned. Use a marker and tin snips or move the lower splash guard if necessary to create an even gap between the upper and lower splash guards.
  • Page 382 Mark the lower splash guard where it will touch the 1”x 1” tube for rivets. Drill and rivet the lower splash guard to the tube using ⅛” rivets.  The lower splash guard on the outside can either mount on the inside of the body or on the outside of the body as shown below.
  • Page 383: Rear Wheel

     Make sure that the front of the lower section of body is even with the nose when it is down. Apply silicone to the outside of the lower splash guard then mark and rivet the outside of the lower splash guard to the body.
  • Page 384: Scoops

    Use some of the self-tapping #6 screws to hold it in place. Remove the panel and silicone where it will contact the trunk side and along the inside of the flange on the body. Drill and rivet the panel in place along the trunk side and through the bottom corner of the body into the aluminum Scoops ...
  • Page 385: Rear Mesh

    Rear mesh  Tin snips, marker  Side Louvers, fasteners  The rear mesh is a nice touch for looks but not necessary.  There are different ways to mount the mesh, using spacers and fasteners or bend the sides and use silicone, it is up to you.
  • Page 386: Finishing Touches

    Hold the mesh up to the rear vent area and mark the outline on the mesh. Bend the mesh to the shape or use tin snips to cut the shape of the vent. If bending, cut the depth you would like the mesh to sit at otherwise cut or find spacers and fasteners to get the correct depth.
  • Page 387: Adjusting The Upper Control Arm

    Total Toe: ” Rear (IRS only) Camber: -1 Total Toe: ” Adjusting the upper control Arm  Use the diagram below for reference. Slightly loosen the three pivot bolts using a ⅝” and ” wrench. Loosen the jam nuts on both ends of each adjusting tubes using a 1⅛” wrench. Turn the adjusting tubes to lengthen or shorten the arm.
  • Page 388: Performance Reference Material And Technical Support

    Chapter Performance Reference Material and Technical Support 508-291-3443...
  • Page 389: Wheels And Tires

    Wheels and Tires  If using a wheel wider than 7”, FFR front lower control arms are needed to prevent the wheels rubbing the control arms. The front of the car can accommodate up to a 10” wheel with 315/35R-17. The rear of the car can accommodate up to a 12”...
  • Page 390 If a modern look is what you’re after, you may want to try the 17” Cobra™ R or FR style wheels. If using the standard width 1987-93 rear, it is possible to use aftermarket 10.5” wide, 27mm offset wheels. If using a rear end that has been converted to 5-lug using the “Cobra™” brake kit use two (4) 5.95” backspace wheels.
  • Page 391: Performance Modifications

    17”x 9” and 17”x 10.5” FR style wheels. Our online parts catalog: has more views of these wheels on cars. Left: 15” FFR Halibrand style. Right 17” FFR Halibrand Style Performance Modifications Seats For the roadracers/autocrossers that want more side support, Factory five offers a variety of different options.
  • Page 392: Gears

    train. Remember that a 2,100 lb. car stresses the parts less than a 3,100 lb. Mustang does, so all of the components will last longer and can take more abuse than they did on the Mustang. Check to see what we offer. Gears The Mustang 5.0 manual transmission car comes with either 2.73 or 3.08 rear end gear ratios from the factory.
  • Page 393: Throttle Body

    Throttle Body Stock Mustang size: 58mm A 65mm throttle body work well up to 350hp. Ford Racing, BBK, Jegs, Summit Racing etc… sell many other sizes. Mass Air Meter Stock Mustang size: 55mm In order to increase the flow of air above 5000 rpm, upgrade from the stock mass air sensor. Aftermarket 70 mm or 75 mm mass air units are an excellent choice and have proven effective.
  • Page 394: Timing

    If using a 351W engine there are two options, use 351W engine swap headers from Ford Racing (M- 9430-A58) or MAC (E358692) or if smog/catalytic converters are not necessary, use our full length 4 into 4 headers. Ford Racing offers 1⅝” unequal length Stainless Steel headers that are bolt on parts. They will reward you with a nicer look and a small horsepower increase.
  • Page 395: High Horsepower Transmissions

    High Horsepower Transmissions Stock: T-5 The stock T-5 is good for the stock 302 engine. If the engine is going to have some work done to it then an upgrade to a heavy duty, Ford Racing “Z” T-5 is all that is needed. An additional change to a Tremec TKO 500 or 600 is needed if the engine that will be used has 350lbft of torque or more.
  • Page 396: Rear Suspension

    Rear Suspension The standard solid axle 4-link rear suspension works well, is low maintenance and is reliable. Which rear suspension you choose depends on the type of driving you do a majority of the time. Each one is best for one application and is good in other applications. 4-link suspension –...
  • Page 397: Control Arms

    IRS suspension – Good everyday driving suspension. The IRS is best for rough surfaces Control Arms Stock: Stamped steel with rubber bushings. Front: The stock front arms work well all round. The Factory Five tubular lower control arms with polyurethane bushings are lighter, eliminate the rubber and look better than the stock Mustang arms. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 398 Rear: Using tubular control arms with polyurethane bushings helps to locate the solid axle and hook up better on the drag launches. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 399: Shocks/Springs

    Shocks/Springs Using the Mustang rear coil springs and shocks gives a comfortable ride. For a slightly stiffer suspension, replace the stock rear shocks with aftermarket units. We have found that KYB makes an inexpensive good replacement that roughly 20% stiffer than stock. For the well balanced fun to drive car, the 3-link rear suspension combined with the Factory Five custom valved Koni rear coil-over shocks work the best.
  • Page 400: 5-Lug (4.5"Pattern)

    11”Front Spindle OEM 87-93 V8 Mustang front spindle Rotor OEM 87-93 V8 Mustang 11” rotor Caliper OEM 87-93 V8 Mustang 60mm caliper 10.5”Rear Stainless Steel Brake Corp. 87-93 Mustang disc brake conversion kit (Part #A-112-1) Disc Brakes R’ Us - Select FORD and FACTORY FIVE for options Rotor OEM 87-88 Thunderbird Turbo Coupe 10.5”...
  • Page 401: Irs

    Area (in Bore Diameter (in) ⅝ Up to 3.6 3.6 to 4.2 4.2 to 4.5 ¾ 4.5 to 4.7 4.7 to 5.5 ⅞ 5.5 to 5.9 5.9 to 6.3 6.3 to 7.6 max 1⅛ Factory Five Racing 508-291-3443 508-291-3443...
  • Page 402: Helpful Reference Material

    Helpful Reference Material Must Reads  . The largest discussion forum for Factory Five Racing kits. Also has many vendor links. Helpful  5.0L Ford Dyno Tests. By Richard Holdener. Published by SA Design, Cartech. 11605 Kost Dam Rd., North Branch, MN 55056.
  • Page 403: Factory Five Aftermarket

    Factory Five Racing does not build or sell completed or partially completed vehicles. We are aware of a number of performance and hot rod shops that claim to specialize in building race cars and kit cars. We have over the years compiled a list of some of them, which includes parts yards, used parts suppliers, paint and body shops, hot rod assemblers, and race car shops.
  • Page 404 Please know that there is no connection between FFR and those outside shops. There are no authorized FFR dealerships, and we cannot recommend any of the particular businesses that are on our lists, nor do we warrantee their work. They are provided simply to help you identify businesses in your area that offer these types of services.
  • Page 405: Appendix A - Templates

    Appendix A – Templates 508-291-3443...
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  • Page 417: Appendix B - Donor Parts List

    Appendix B – Donor Parts List 508-291-3443...
  • Page 419: Appendix C - Optional Rear Disc Brakes

    Appendix C – Optional Rear Disc Brakes 508-291-3443...
  • Page 420 11.65” Rear Brakes Installation instructions Revision: C  These instructions apply to any 1986-2004 Ford Mustang 8.8 rear axle with Traction-Lok differential (FFR#s 14319,14970) using 1994-2004 OEM Mustang style disc brakes (FFR#s 14834, and 14903).  The installation of this kit can be performed by anyone with an average amount of mechanical experience, but it is very important to follow the instructions and refer to a Mustang Shop Manual or equivalent.
  • Page 421 Instructions Place the caliper “C” shaped caliper axle mount bracket over the Axle so that the open part of the bracket is facing down. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 422 Insert the caliper axle mount bracket bolts from the outside in. Torque the caliper bracket to 45-50 ft-lbs. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 423 Insert the caliper mount bracket bolts from the outside in through the four remaining bracket holes. Slide the caliper mount bracket onto the four bolts. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 424 Torque the mounting bolts to the same 45-50 ft-lbs. Next install the brake rotor using one lug nut to hold it in place. Make sure to clean the surface of the rotor with brake parts cleaner before installing the caliper. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 425 Put the brake pads in the caliper by pushing down on the pad to compress the wire springs on the top of the pad, and then slide them into the slots in the caliper bracket. When installing the caliper make sure that the brake fluid bleed screw is on the top side of the caliper. Do not worry about the LH/RH markings on the calipers.
  • Page 426 Make sure the caliper bracket is centered over the rotor then check to see if a spacer is needed between the caliper bracket and the caliper mount bracket or between the two brackets. If needed remove the caliper and slide the shim onto the bolt. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 427 Recheck the clearance between the caliper bracket and rotor. Tighten and torque the two 12mm mounting bolts to 55ft/lbs using a 16mm socket. 508-291-3443...
  • Page 428: Torque Specifications

    If not already done, fill the rear axle with fluid and seal the cover with RTV silicone. Torque Specifications: FASTENER TORQUE (FT./LBS.) DIFFERENTIAL PINION SHAFT LOCKING BOLT 15-30 BANJO BOLTS 30-40 WHEEL NUTS 85-105 AXLE ADAPTER/REARBACKING PLATE BOLTS 45-50 AXLE HOUSING COVER BOLTS 25-35 AXLE FILL PLUG 15-30...
  • Page 429: Appendix D - Different Donor Vehicles

    Appendix D – Different Donor Vehicles 508-291-3443...
  • Page 430: 1982-1986 V8 Donors

    We highly recommend NOT using these different donor cars for the average build. This list will help with those parting out individual items, and possibly for those not using all of the donor parts. 1982-1986 V8 Donors  Front brakes are 10” in diameter compared to the 87-93 11” diameter. ...
  • Page 431  Rear axle is 61.125” from hub to hub, where as the pre-93 donors were 59.25”. (A different wheel offset could be used to make up the difference).  Front spindles are shorter (if you specify, we have brackets to make them work). ...
  • Page 432: Appendix E - Mustang Specifications

    Appendix E – Mustang Specifications 508-291-3443...
  • Page 433: Special Version Mustangs With Specifications

    (All information is based on V8 Ford Mustangs from 1979 to 1995) Special Version Mustangs with Specifications Year & Model Engine Torque Rear Susp. Transmission Wheels 93' Mustang Cobra 302, 5.0L 235@4600 280@4000 Solid Axle 17"x8" 93' Mustang Cobra "R" 302, 5.0L 235@4600 280@4000...
  • Page 434: Front Brakes

    Front brakes 1987 to 1993 front rotors are 11” diameter, and use a 4.25” 4-lug bolt pattern. They use a cast iron single piston caliper. These rotors also contain the hub that carries the wheel bearings cast in as a one piece rotor/hub assembly (1982 Lincoln Continental rotors are an exact rotor/hub assembly except they have a 4.5”...
  • Page 435: Clutch Cable, Quadrant

    Clutch Cable, Quadrant Clutch cables and quadrants remain the same from 1982 to 1995. From 1996 to 2002 cables and quadrants changed. Speedometer cable From 1983.5 to 1993 Mustangs used a mechanical speedometer with a cable which had a plastic gear c- clipped on to its end, which was inserted into the driver side of the transmission.
  • Page 436: Steering Components

    remain very hot, and an average measurement of all of the cylinders can be taken. All oxygen sensors are recommended to be used when placing a fuel injected engine into a Factory Five kit. Steering components Power steering racks from 1987 - 2004 are mostly all 15:1. In 1994 the racks switched from having a splined shaft for attachment to the steering column to a triangle shaped end, as well as changing the inner and outer tie rod ends.
  • Page 437: Rear 4 Link Control Arms

    they are thicker and are designed for a smaller 10” rotor. To use them, one of the shims tack welded into the standard IFS bracket needs to be removed. Rear 4 link control arms Upper control and lower control arms stay the same from 1979 to 1998. Front lower control arms Front lower control arms from 1979 to 1993 all have the same dimensions and will work with any FFR kit by following the simple modification shown below.
  • Page 438: Accelerator Pedal

    selection tips at the beginning of this manual) so more of the harness parts must be kept or the computer will need to be flashed. In 1999 Ford added to the PATS so that the gauge cluster needs to be present to start the car.
  • Page 439: Appendix F - Fluid Specifications

    Appendix F – Fluid Specifications 508-291-3443...
  • Page 440 Engine Oil Type Capacity 10W-30 5.0 qts. 4.6L 5W-30 8.0 qts w/FFR pan Transmission Oil Type T-45 3650 T-56 Mercon/Dexron 2.8 qts. 3.25 qts. 4.0 qts. 2.64 qts. 4.0 qts III Trans. Fluid 8.8 Solid Rear Axle Friction Oil Type Capacity Modifier 80W-90...
  • Page 441: Appendix G - Torque Specifications

    Appendix G – Torque Specifications 508-291-3443...
  • Page 442 General Bolt torque specifications* Thread English Zinc Plated Ft-Lb. ¼ -20 ¼ -28 ⅜ -16 ⅜ -24 ½ -13 ½ -20 ⅝ -11 ⅝ -14 Thread Metric Zinc Plated Ft-Lb. ATTENTION: Use the following specs in order to torque Stainless Bolts. ”...