Page 1 R E V I S I O N 4 L , O C T O B E R 2 0 1 7...
Page 2  2017 Factory Five Racing Inc. 9 Tow Rd Wareham, MA 02571 Phone 508.291.3443 • Fax 508.291.3883...
Page 3: Table Of Contents
Table of Contents General Information ..............8 Foreword ..................8 Safety Notice ................. 10 Safety Tips..................12 How to use This Book ..............13 What You Get ................13 What You Need ................14 Serial Number Identification ............16 Optional part Instructions ............... 16 Tools List ..................
Page 4 3 link Rear Suspension Torque Specs Chart .......... 79 Optional Independent Rear Suspension – Standard width .... 80 Parts needed ................... 80 Mustang IRS Specifications ..............81 Parts preparation ..................81 Installation ....................90 Fluids ..................... 110 Capacities ..................... 110 Alignment specs ..................
Page 5 Fuel filler neck ..................175 Fuel tank install ..................177 Fuel filter ....................179 Hard lines ....................182 Brake System ................186 Brake reservoir ..................186 Front flexible brake lines ............... 193 Hard brake lines ..................197 Banjo bolt torque specs ................ 206 Chassis wiring harness ..............
Page 6 Cables ....................273 Handle and Cable Adjustment .............. 276 Axle and Fuel Tank Vents ............279 Aluminum panels ................. 281 Transmission Tunnel Cover ..............281 Driver Footbox Side Aluminum ............. 282 Seats ................... 283 Nameplate ................... 285 Gauges and Dash ................ 286 Horns ...................
Page 7 Turn Signal .................... 379 License plate light ................. 381 Side exhaust ..................385 Headlights ..................... 386 Side louver .................... 389 Hood ...................... 391 Roll bar ....................401 Final Prep ..................410 Body Painting ................412 Final Assembly ..............413 Radiator Aluminum ..............414 Carpet ..................
Page 8 Front Wheel ................... 488 Rear Wheel ................... 491 Finishing Touches ............... 493 Headlight Alignment ................494 Alignment Specifications ............... 495 Optional Parts ................497 Performance Reference Material and Technical Support ..498 Maintenance ................499 Wheels ..................499 1994-1998 rear end................500 1999-2003 rear end................
Page 9: General Information
Chapter General Information Foreword f you are reading this, you are embarking on a mission to build your own car, or at least considering doing so. I wanted to share with you some of my experiences and lessons learned while working with literally thousands of people who have completed this...
Page 10 part of the very definition of always trying to go faster. The late Carroll Smith wrote something I really loved that speaks to this point. “There is no magic! The one basic truth of successful racecar preparation bears repeating. There is no magic. There is only logic, common sense, forethought, vast amounts of hard work, and a fanatic dedication to the task at hand”.
Page 11: Safety Notice
Any decision to proceed in the project of building one’s own racecar must be made with the acceptance of personal responsibility. If, while building, driving or racing this Factory Five Racing kit, should you become injured or die, it will be the result of your own conscious decision and we at Factory Five Racing, Inc., disclaim any responsibility of any kind.
Page 12 This kit is only a collection of parts designed for use primarily as a race car. Factory Five Racing does not build completed or partially completed vehicles. You are responsible for ensuring that the vehicle you build complies with all Federal, State and local laws regarding its use.
Page 13: Safety Tips
Safety Tips Read the manual. It is at least a good guide and place to start. Don’t take short cuts. Before starting work, make sure you have the proper tools, the required parts, and sufficient space for the job. If you damage any parts, it will probably be because they were either not stored properly or, the wrong tool was used to install them.
Page 14: How To Use This Book
How to use This Book This Assembly manual is intended to help you build your Factory Five Kit. This book will not explain such things as engine or transmission building. A secondary purpose of this book is to use it as reference for owners that want to do maintenance work on their cars or for those that purchase finished cars, to understand their cars better.
Page 15: What You Need
Driveshaft: Select from one of three available driveshaft’s w/fasteners to match the engine/trans of your choice. Select one of the following… 28 spline driveshaft for T-5, AOD, or Tremec 3550’s 31 spline driveshaft for Tremec TKO 500 or 600’s 31 spline driveshaft for 4.6L engines w/T-45’s or 3650’s Gauges and Dash and Electrical Assembly: Custom fit chassis wiring harness, ignition switch, headlight switch, Hi-Low beam switch, starter solenoid, horn button, dash indicator lights, insulated line clip hardware, Cable ties, battery ground strap, speedometer sending unit, 3.73 speedometer gear, and choice...
Page 16 Paint: Most customers will send out the body and paint work to a professional body shop. Fuel pump: You are responsible for purchasing an external carbureted or fuel injected inline fuel pump. Battery: We recommend a battery sized for a Ford Mustang. Wheels and Tires: See the appendix for complete recommended sizes.
Page 17: Serial Number Identification
Serial Number Identification Factory Five Racing has included a Certificate of Origin along with a Nameplate for your kit. The serial number from the Certificate of Origin matches the number engraved on the 2”x 2” tube going across the car at the front of the cockpit.
Page 18: Tools List
Tools List The following lists detail the tools and supplies that are needed to build your kit. The “helpful” items are not crucial to the assembly but make life easier. Home Depot HUSKY®, Sears CRAFTSMAN®, and Snap-On tools are all guaranteed for life and we’ve found them to be more reliable over discount tools. Storage shelves for kit and running gear parts Body storage area (can be outside) SAE and metric socket set, a 52-piece set that includes an 18mm is a good choice...
Page 19: Required Supplies
Required Supplies Stick with name brand products like Eastwood, 3M, and Duplicolor. The Eastwood brand coatings are great for bringing weathered and oxidized parts up to show quality. PPG brand and DuPont brand paints are excellent. Engine degreaser Silicone Door and window sealant, GE Silicone II or equivalent - 4 tubes Coolant –...
Page 20: Disassembly Of The Kit
Chapter Disassembly of the kit www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 21: Unpacking Your Kit
Unpacking Your Kit  Boxes are numbered, when you read your packing list you will see that next to each assembly there is a number circled. This is the box number that the assembly was packaged in. The kit is packaged in the order that you will be using the parts.
Page 22: Body Removal
Body Removal  ⅝” socket, Ratchet, ⅝” wrench, gloves, 2 friends.  Be careful of the raw fiberglass edges, they can splinter into your skin Unbolt the door from the hinge leaving the hinge attached to the chassis. Cut the zip ties in the door latch area. Remove the hood and unbolt the trunk from the chassis.
Page 23 Unbolt the body sides from the chassis on the underside of the car. Unbolt the Quick Jacks and remove the body. Two people can do this but it is much easier with a third person to pull the sides clear of the chassis. When you store the body on the ground (unsupported) for long periods of time you may get slight distortion (bowing) around the walls forward of the doors.
Page 24 putting two short 2”x 4” braces (24” long) under the windshield holes (running vertically to support the hood cowl area just forward of the doors under the windshield holes). Use these 2”x 4” ’s whenever the body is on the ground, otherwise make a body buck to support it. A body buck diagram is in the appendix. The dimensions do not have to be exact.
Page 25: Aluminum Removal
Aluminum Removal  ¼” nut driver, jack stands, marker.  Do one panel at a time. Be careful of the sharp aluminum edges, they can cut you. Using a marker outline the underside of each panel where it contacts the chassis. This is done to locate where to drill rivet holes when the panels are permanently mounted later on.
Page 26 www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 27 www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 28 Use jack-stands to position your frame in your workspace with plenty of room to move things around. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 29: Chassis Assembly
Chapter Chassis Assembly www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 30: Rivet Spacing Tool
Rivet Spacing Tool  Packaged Aluminum In most cases we use a 3” rivet spacing when mounting aluminum panels to the chassis and a 2” spacing when mounting panel to panel. The rivet spacing tool has this hole spacing marked. The distance from the edge of the tool to the holes is correct to center the rivets on the ¾”...
Page 31 ” bit then clean the marker lines and labeling off using acetone or brake cleaner. Drill the panels using a Apply silicone to the panel or chassis (whichever is easier) in the areas where they will make contact. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 32 ” rivet holes through the panel holes into the Use the original #6 screws to remount the panel then drill the chassis. ” short rivets, then remove the screws and replace them with rivets. Rivet the panel in place using Repeat for the other side.
Page 33: Front Suspension
Front Suspension Front lower control arm  ⅞” socket, ”, ” wrenches, Torque wrench  Front lower control arm assembly Unpack the front lower control arms and hardware. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 34 ” wrench. Screw the grease fittings into the arms using a Mount the lower control arms using the outer set of holes on the chassis using the supplied hardware. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 35: Front Upper Control Arm
The rear bushing mount on the chassis is wider to be able to accept OEM arms so use the large shim washers provided to take up the extra space. While holding the arm parallel to the ground, torque the bolts to 135-149Nm (100-110 lbft). Front upper control arm ...
Page 36 Put thread locker on the upper balljoint threads. Screw the upper ball joints into the control arms so that the balljoint angles out on the bottom www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 37 Tighten the balljoint using the arm for leverage with a Vice holding the ball joint. Screw the grease fittings in to the ball joints and tighten with a ⅜” wrench. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 38 Mount the upper control arms to the chassis with the grease fittings pointed up. Use the mount holes that are vertical on the side of the 2”x 3” tube, not the top horizontal ones. Use a washer with the front locknut. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 39: Pivot Endplay
Do not use a washer on the rear locknut. Torque the two bolts that hold the arm to the frame to 135-149Nm (100-110 lbft). Pivot endplay Adjust the locknuts on the ends of the pivot shaft so that there is minimal endplay but so the pivots can still rotate easily on the shaft.
Page 40: Front Coil-Over Shock Assembly
Slightly loosen the three pivot bolts using a ⅝” and ” wrench. Loosen the jam nuts on both ends of each adjusting tubes using a 1⅛” wrench. Turn the adjusting tubes to lengthen or shorten the arm. After you have adjusted the arm to the desired length, tighten down the jam nuts against the adjusting tubes, and then tighten each of the three pivot bolts.
Page 41 Unpack the front shocks, coil-over’s and hardware. Double check the jam nut under the rod end and bump stop to make sure that it is tight. Screw the spring seat down on the sleeve so it is closer to the unthreaded end. Slide the coil sleeve over the body of the damper beginning at the end which has the rubber bump stop.
Page 42 The coil-over hats have a snap ring which holds it in place. Remove this snap ring to assemble the coil over shock. Slide the rubber bumper about two inches down on the shaft. Put the spring and hat on the shock and rotate the spring seat back up the sleeve so that the spring pushes the hat tight against the end of the shock.
Page 43 Install the snap ring on the spring hat so that it holds onto the shock end. Make sure that the slot in the snap ring and the slot in the spring hat are not aligned. Pass the shock assembly (with the body of the shock up) through the upper A-arm and attach them to the lower control arm using the 0.43”...
Page 44 Run zip ties through the holes in the spring hat and around the spring to prevent the spring from becoming unseated. Fasten the shock to the top mount with the fasteners and 0.675” spacers provided and torque both upper and lower mounts to 40 ft-lbs.
Page 45: Spindles
Spindles  ” socket, Torque wrench, Needle Nose Pliers, Rubber Mallet  Spindle Assembly, IFS components. Unpack and lay out the hardware for the spindles assembly.  The spindles are marked DSS (Driver Side Spindle) and PSS (Passenger Side Spindle). These refer to the way they are mounted on the FFR Hot Rod.
Page 46 Make sure the grease boot is in place on the balljoint then mount the spindle to the lower control arm. Place the spacer under the castle nut to ensure that the cotter pin is at the correct height. Torque to 106-149Nm (80-110 lbft) and install the cotter pin.
Page 47 Attach the upper ball joint to the spindle and torque to 75 ft-lbs and install the cotter pin.  The upper ball joint boot will look crushed and out of shape when the car is in the air, this is OK. The boot will seat when the car is on the ground.
Page 48: Front Suspension Torque Specs Chart
The hub is a snug fit on the spindle and may require a light tap with a soft mallet to get in place. Torque the hub nut to 305-338Nm (225-250 ft-lbs). Using a large socket or a flat head screwdriver and rubber mallet, hit the dust cap onto the hub. Front Suspension Torque Specs Chart Item Lbft...
Page 49: Front Brakes
Front lower ball joint to spindle 106-163 80-120 Upper A-arm to frame 135-162 100-110 Upper ball joint to Spindle 95-122 70-90 Spindle hub nut 305-338 225-250 Front Brakes  12mm socket, Ratchet, 16mm wrench, Torque wrench, thread locker  Front 11” Caliper/Rotor Assembly ...
Page 50 Install the caliper slider pins on the caliper using the supplied bolts and a 16mm wrench and 12mm socket. Torque to 23-26 ft/lbs. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 51 Install the slider grease boots on the slider pins. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 52 www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 53 In the supplied hardware bag there are six steel clips that are designed to separate the pads from the caliper. These clips allow the pads to slide on a smooth surface and not wear on the caliper. The four clips that go on the ends of the hanger are different end to end, and must be installed with the long tab facing out.
Page 54 The two clips that are left go in the center of the caliper with the tab sticking up through the center hole. Insert the clip from the inside of the caliper through the large center hole with the larger tab on the side facing the pistons then press down on the outer part of the clip so the small clip goes through the large hole and clips on.
Page 55 Push the rubber boots over the lip on the caliper bracket to seal the slider bolts correctly. Look at the back side of each brake pad to find the inside pads and the outside pads. The difference is the location of the studs that are on the back of each pad. The studs on the inside pads are out near the ends of the pad, while the studs on the outside pads are near the middle.
Page 56 www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 57 Install the brake pads in the Caliper. Clean the rotor with brake cleaner and push it onto the hub. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 58 Install the caliper on the spindle; make sure that the fluid bleeder is at the top of the caliper. Torque the caliper mounting bolts to 130Nm (95 ft-lb). www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 59: Solid Axle Rear Suspension
Solid Axle Rear Suspension  Skip to the Independent Rear suspension if not installing a Solid axle. Two bolts are included with the control arms, the other two are included in the kit with the Traction Lok Brackets. Solid Axle Preparation ...
Page 60 If not already done, fill the axle with gear oil. See Appendix for specifications and capacities. If using a used rear axle, remove the lower shock mounts and the anti vibration weight under the pinion. Drill the lower control arm mount holes with a ½” drill bit. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 61 Position the Traction Lok brackets on the rear end with the bolts provided (the two short bolts go on the sides). Axle Bracket Driver's Side www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 62 Axle Bracket Passenger Side Temporarily put the lower shock bolt through the traction lock bracket and stock shock hole on the axle. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 63 Tighten the two short bolts. Torque to Ford Specs 75-95 Nm (55-70 lbft). Attach the lower control arms to the brackets on the axle using the bolt provided. Torque to 101-111Nm (75-82 lb-ft)  The lower bolt holes provide more traction than the upper holes. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 64: Link Rear Suspension
3 Link Rear Suspension  ”, ⅜”, ½” drill bits, ⅝”, ¾”, ”, 1” wrenches, ⅜”, ⅝”, ¾”, ” sockets, ” Hex key, Ratchet, Torque Wrench, Drill, Ruler/Tape measure, Pliers, Flat head Screwdriver, Tin Snips/scissors/razor, Marker.  3-Link rear suspension with kit. ...
Page 65 Test fit the two halves of the upper arm mount together. If it is hard to put all of the bolts in the mount holes, put in as many as you can then use a ½” drill bit through the remaining bolt holes. Attach the upper link bracket onto the axle using the fine hardware (FFR# 12217 &...
Page 66: Upper Link
Attach the front of the upper link axle mount to the front axle flange. Upper Link Install a jam nut on each of the rod ends, remembering that two of them are left hand thread. Insert the rod ends into the swedged tubes (one is right hand thread and one is left hand thread). The longer tube is the Panhard bar and the shorter one is the upper link.
Page 67: Rear Axle
Attach the short upper link tube to the axle upper link mount using the ¼” spacers on either side of the rod end. Rear Axle  Have someone help with this step, the rear axle is very heavy and mistakes can result in serious injury. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 68 Use a floor jack to position the rear axle assembly under the frame.  Make sure that the rear jack stands are positioned under the 4” round tube as far back as possible to prevent the frame from tipping up once the axle is mounted ...
Page 69 With one person holding a side of the axle raise the axle so that the lower control arms can be bolted onto the frame. Attach the lower control arms to the frame mounts. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 70: Panhard Bar Frame Mount
Jack the rear axle up and attach the upper link to the frame. Panhard Bar Frame mount  The Panhard bar frame mount is mounted to the chassis during shipping www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 71 With the axle jacked up, attach the Panhard Bar frame mount to the inside of the quad shock brackets, the forward leg will attach to the back of the angled 2”x 3” tube. Do not tighten the quad shock bracket bolts yet. For the front mount, use a ½”...
Page 72: Rear Coil-Over Shock Assembly
Tighten the bolts on the quad shock brackets. Lower the rear axle.  With the rear end correctly installed with the 3-link, the rear axle will rest on the 3-link panhard bar mount with the suspension at full droop. Rear Coil-Over Shock Assembly ...
Page 73 Unpack the rear shocks, coil over’s and hardware. Double check the jam nut under the rod end and bump stop to make sure that it is tight. Screw the spring seat down on the sleeve so it is closer to the unthreaded end. The center high part of the set should be pointed away from the unthreaded end.
Page 74 The coil-over hats have a snap ring which holds it in place. Remove this snap ring to assemble the coil over shock. Slide the rubber bumper about two inches down on the shaft. Put the spring on the shock, then install the spring hat on the shaft end of the shock and push the rubber bumper up against it.
Page 75 Install the snap ring on the spring hat so that it holds onto the shock end. Make sure that the slot in the snap ring and the slot in the spring hat are not aligned. Use zip ties to hold the spring to the spring hat. Assembled solid axle Koni coil-over shock.
Page 76 Attach the body end of the shock to the upper shock mount using the two equal length (1.09”) spacers. Jack the rear axle up so the rod end of the shocks can be mounted on the axle through the shock mount hole. Passenger side www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 77 Driver Side Install the kit ½”x 4” bolts are provided for each lower shock mount. From the rear, the bolt goes through the bracket, ⅛” shim, shock, then the long spacer (1.09”) followed by the bracket and axle. Use a ¾” socket and Torque wrench to tighten both upper and lower mounts to 40 ft-lbs.
Page 78 Run zip ties through the holes in the spring hat and around the spring to prevent the spring from becoming unseated. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 79: Panhard Bar
Panhard Bar The Panhard bar mounts to the car using the ⅝”x 3” bolts and spacers. Install the Panhard bar to the passenger side traction lock bracket. Three spacers are used in the front (2) 0.375" (FFR# 14064) and (1) 0.25" (FFR# 14065).
Page 80: Link Rear Suspension Torque Specs Chart
Attach the Panhard bar to the frame mount using the spacers provided. There should never be less than ¾” of threads screwed into either the Panhard bar or the upper arm. To set the pinion angle, make sure that your ride height is where you want it, and then adjust the upper arm until the desired angle is reached.
Page 81: Optional Independent Rear Suspension - Standard Width
Optional Independent Rear Suspension – Standard width  L&R lower control arms, L&R upper control arms, Toe arms, L&R CV axles, Koni coil-over shocks, Springs, Fasteners, Driveshaft adapter  ” Drill bit, ”, ” wrenches, ”, ” 18mm Sockets, Large adjustable Philips head screwdriver, wrench –...
Page 82: Mustang Irs Specifications
Mustang IRS Specifications 2.3L Ecoboost 3.7L V6 5.0L Coyote Housing Steel Aluminum Steel Weight 93lb 78lb 93lb Gear Ratios 3.15:1, 3.31:1, 3.55:1 3.15:1, 3.55:1 3.15:1, 3.55:1 12.6" (320mm) Solid rotor, 12.6" (320mm) Solid rotor, 13.0" (330mm)Vented rotor, 45mm single piston aluminum 45mm single piston aluminum 45mm single piston iron Brakes...
Page 83 Mark the spindle starting at the top just to the inside of the top inside hole down to the corner of the small boss at the bottom of the ear. Use a saw to cut the ear off the spindle. If using a Sawzall or similar, use a wood blade; a 14tpi blade or finer will just get gummed up with the aluminum.
Page 84 Hubs  Hammer, vise, ratchet, ½”-20 lugnut, torque wrench.  Rear wheel studs.  Removal of the hub from the spindle is not necessary but can make things easier. Use a vise to lightly hold the side of the wheel stud head then use a hammer to bang out the Mustang studs. Repeat for all of the studs.
Page 85 Insert one of the included wheel studs into the hub from the back and use a washer and lug nut on the front side. Use a ratchet to draw the wheel stud into the hub and torque the stud to 135Nm (100lb-ft). www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 86 Repeat for the other wheel studs. If the Hub was removed, use Loctite on the threads and reattach to the spindle. Torque the bolts to 133Nm (98ft-lb). www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 87 Center section  ” drill bit, drill. ” drill bit to chase the front mount holes on the center section. Use a Frame  Rubber/plastic mallet  Differential mounting components www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 88 Bushing locations. ”) sleeves where the Use a plastic mallet to install the polyurethane bushings marked 2048 and the longer (3 front of the center section will mount. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 89: Upper Control Arms
Use a plastic mallet to install the polyurethane bushings marked 2123 and the shorter (2.40”) sleeves where the rear of the center section will mount. Upper control arms  Upper control arm components  Grease gun www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 90: Lower Control Arms
Assemble each of the upper control arms as shown. Grease the control arms using chassis grease until the grease comes out of the flutes in the bushings next to the pivot sleeves. Lower control arms  Grease gun Grease the control arms using chassis grease until the grease comes out of the flutes in the bushings next to the pivot sleeves.
Page 91: Installation
Toe adjustment arms Assemble each of the toe adjustment arms as shown. Installation Center section  ” sockets, ” wrench. Rubber/plastic mallet, torque wrench, 18mm,  Differential mounting components.  Use a friend to help with the heavy center section in the next steps. ...
Page 92 Use rags to protect between the front center section mount on the frame. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 93 With the help of a friend, lift the center section nose up into the frame and over the front mount. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 94 Flatten the center section out so it is horizontal then back it up so it is above the mount locations and lower it down so the bolts can be installed. The smaller/shorter bolts are used for the rear mounts. The larger/longer bolts and nuts are used for the front mounts. Torque both the front and rear bolts to 135Nm (100 ft-lb).
Page 95 Center section Vent  Pliers, wire cutters, hammer  Vent hose, vent nipple, insulated clips, secondary body fasteners. Remove the plug at the top of the rear cover. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 96 Use a hammer on the end of the barb to put the nipple in the rear cover. Push the 12.00” piece of ” fuel hose onto the barb. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 97 Run the hose up to the 1” tube that goes across the back of the IRS and use one of the kit ” insulated clips and ” rivet to hold it in place. Toe Adjustment arms  IRS Toe adjustment arm components ...
Page 98 ” thick spacer in the back and the Attach the toe arms to the frame below the front lower arm mount using the ¼” spacer on the front side of the rod end. Use the ” x 2.25” bolts to attach them to the frame. Torque bolts to 135Nm (100 ft-lb).
Page 99 Attach the control arms to the frame with the shock mount towards the rear and spindle brackets up. Use the ”) bolts. longer M16 x 110mm (~4 Hold the arm horizontal and torque the bolts to 135Nm (100 ft-lb). Upper control arms ...
Page 100 Pass the upper control arm thick tube through the triangular area as shown in between the frame mounts. Use ”) bolts. the longer M16 x 110mm (~4 Hold the arm horizontal and torque the bolts to 135Nm (100 ft-lb). CV Axle ...
Page 101 Using the correct axle, push the inner CV joint into the center section.  ” (~3mm) gap between the inside of the CV joint and the When fully installed there should be an center section. If necessary, compress the CV axle and with the CV axle nut on the end hit the CV axle in with a plastic mallet.
Page 102 Slide the spindle onto the outer CV joint and start the nut on the end. Spindle to Lower arm Connect the bottom of the spindle to the lower control arm using the M16 x 90mm bolts and locknuts. Right side shown. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 103 Wait to torque the bolts until after the other arms are installed. Spindle to Upper arm Insert the angled mount adapter into the upper arm rod end. ” washer that was on the old bolt and place it on the new ”...
Page 104 Attach the upper control arm to the spindle using the bolt with the misalignment spacer. ” wrench, ” socket and ratchet to tighten the locknut. Use a Wait to torque the bolts until after the other arms are installed. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 105 Check the angle of the upper control arm rod end, make sure that the rod end is not touching the spindle and that it is aligned with the upper control arm. Toe Link Attach the Toe link arm to the spindle using the M14 x 80mm bolt and locknut. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 106 Repeat for the right hand side. Use the torque specifications page at the back of the instructions to torque the control arm to spindle bolts. Coil-Over Shock Assembly  Snap ring pliers, ¾” wrench, ¾” socket, Ratchet, floor jack  Shock set, Insulated clip hardware.
Page 107 The coil-over hats have a snap ring which holds it in place. Remove this snap ring to assemble the coil over shock. Slide the rubber bumper about two inches down on the shaft. Put the spring and hat on the shock and rotate the spring seat back up the sleeve so that the spring pushes the hat tight against the end of the shock.
Page 108 Install the snap ring on the spring hat so that it holds onto the shock end. Make sure that the slot in the snap ring and the slot in the spring hat are not aligned. Attach the rod end of the shock to the upper shock mount using the two equal length 1.09” kit spacers. Torque the upper shock bolt to 54Nm (40 ft-lb).
Page 109 Jack the spindle up so the body end of the shocks can be mounted on the shock mount on the control arm using the longer 1.09” spacer on the back and ” spacer in front of the shock. Torque the lower shock bolt to 54Nm (40 ft-lb). Remove the floor jack.
Page 110 Apply Loctite to the (6) M10 x 25mm socket head screws. Attach the driveshaft adapter to the center section pinion flange and torque the bolts in a star pattern to 55Nm (41 ft-lb). www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 111: Fluids
Fluids Name Specification Motorcraft® Additive Friction Modifier (U.S.) XL-3 (U.S.) EST-M2C118-A Motorcraft® SAE 75W-85 Synthetic Hypoid Gear Lubricant XY-75W85-QL WSS-M2C942-A Fill the rear axle with fluids. Capacities Fluid Amount SAE 75W-85 Synthetic Hypoid Gear Lubricant 3.15-3.30 pt (1.49-1.56 L) Friction Modifier 3.0-3.5 oz (0.089-0.104 L) www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 112: Alignment Specs
Alignment specs Camber: -0.5to -0.75° Total Toe: 1/8” Toe in Torque Specifications LB-FT CENTER SECTION TO FRAME FRONT CENTER SECTION TO FRAME REAR BRAKE CALIPER TO CALIPER BRACKET BRAKE CALIPER BRACKET TO SPINDLE BRAKE HOSE BANJO BOLT TO CALIPER LOWER CONTROL ARM TO FRAME LOWER CONTROL ARM TO SPINDLE TOE LINK TO FRAME TOE LINK TO SPINDLE...
Page 113: Optional Irs Brakes
” wrench to loosen the upper control arm large jam nut and put some Once the car has been aligned, use a 1 Loctite on the threads where the jam nut will sit. Retighten the jam nut. Optional IRS Brakes Download the 2015 IRS brake instructions from www.factoryfiveparts.com/instructions and install the brakes.
Page 114: E-Brake Cables
E-brake cables Make sure the FFR cables go through the upper bracket in the transmission tunnel until the sheath end clicks in place. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 115: Wilwood Brake Routing
Wilwood brake routing Run the left e-brake cable over the top of the center section and left rear mount then down and over to the brake caliper. Run the right cable over the center section and right rear mount then down and over to the brake caliper. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 116: Wilwood E-Brake Adapter
Wilwood e-brake adapter Insert the cable end into the bent bracket then bolt the bracket to the e-brake lever. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 117: Firewall & Driver Front Footbox Aluminum
Make sure to run the other end of the brake cables under the 4” crossmember and connect them to the e-brake handle and adjust. Firewall & Driver Front Footbox Aluminum  ” drill bit, rivet tool, caulk gun, silicone Drill, ...
Page 118 Rivet the firewall in position on the chassis.  The Footbox front for the Wilwood Pedal box is packaged with the pedalbox in the kit. The one that is shipped on the chassis is for the OEM Mustang pedalbox. Mark, drill, and rivet in place the driver’s side footbox front panel, leave the lower section that attaches to the ¾”...
Page 119: Pedal Box
Pedal Box  ½”, ” sockets, ¼”, ⅜”, ½” wrenches, ¼” drill bit, drill, Philips head screwdriver, ”, ” Hex Key, snap ring pliers  Pedal Components, pedal box hardware.  This pedal box is set-up to use either a hydraulic clutch or a cable clutch. The parts and instructions required for a cable clutch installation are included below.
Page 120: Clutch Safety Switch Mount
Connect the switch to the switch mount using a hex nut on each side of the mount bracket. See the Chassis harness instructions for connecting the switch. Clutch safety switch mount  The clutch switch mount attaches the same way as the Brake switch mount. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 121: Clutch Cable Quadrant
Place the switch mount between the clutch pedal mount tabs on the side closest to the clutch pedal pivot holes ” hole through the switch mount hole and the pedal box. and drill a Attach the switch mount to the pedal box using the black #10 screw and locknut. Connect the switch to the switch mount using a hex nut on each side of the mount bracket.
Page 122 Use snap ring pliers to remove the clevis at the top of the clutch pedal. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 123 Quadrant assembly order for kits older than 6/21/16 www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 124 Quadrant assembly order for kits newer than 6/21/16. Assemble the clutch quadrant to the Wilwood clutch pedal as shown above. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 125 ” bolt can go through the clutch pedal hole. If necessary use a file to remove the forging centerline so the ” Button head screws, Attach the Wilwood pedals to the underside of the mounting bracket using four ” hex key and ½” wrench. locknuts, www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 126: Clutch Quadrant Stop
Clutch Quadrant stop Attach the Clutch pedal stop mount to the bottom of the pedal box using two ¼” socket head screws, spacers and locknuts. Thread the jam nut onto the ⅜”x 1.25” screw provided in the quadrant box. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 127: Frame Installation
From the underside, push the screw through the quadrant pedal stop mount plate and hand tighten the locknut on the screw. Frame Installation Place the pedal box assembly in the driver’s footbox. Make sure that the brake pedal goes in front of the ¾” cross tube on the frame.
Page 128 Unpack the pedal box hardware from the secondary chassis components box. Insert three ⅜” x 1” socket head screws from the pedal box hardware assembly and the one included in this pedal assembly through the front of the footbox and through the pedal box mount. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 129 Push the rear pedal box mount onto the master cylinder mount studs and use a few of the jam nuts from the Wilwood pedal assembly to temporarily hold the rear mount in place. Tighten two of the front ⅜” screws then use a marker to mark the locations of the rear mount holes on the ¾” tubes.
Page 130: Master Cylinders
Loosen the bolts and remove the pedal box assembly from the footbox then use a ¼” drill bit and drill to drill through the ¾” tubes at the locations marked for the rear mount. Reinstall the pedal box assembly in the driver’s footbox; use the ¼”x 1.50” screws from the pedal box fastener assembly with a fender washer next to the head.
Page 131  Master cylinders ” off each of the master cylinders. With the jam nut on the threaded shaft, cut Screw the 90° brake line adapter into the end of the master cylinder making sure that the opening points up when tight. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 132 Put one of the master cylinders onto one of the brake master cylinder mounts and turn the threaded shaft into the threaded mount on the brake pedal. As a starting point, thread the shaft in until you can see it is flush on the other side of the mount.
Page 133 Attach and tighten the locknuts using a ½” wrench and ½” deep socket holding the master cylinder to the pedal box then repeat for the other master cylinder. Put the plastic angled inlet adapter with hose clamp on the master cylinders. Use a 6mm socket and ratchet to tighten the hose clamp.
Page 134: Balance Bar Adjustment
Balance Bar adjustment The balance bar is an adjustable lever (usually a threaded rod), that pivots on a spherical bearing and uses two separate master cylinders for the front and rear brakes. Most balance bars are part of a pedal assembly that also provides a mounting for the master cylinders.
Page 135: Accelerator Pedal
Make sure that the master cylinder pushrods remain true in relationship to the cylinder during entire pedal travel; pushrods should not be pushing master cylinder pistons at an angle.  In its non-depressed position, the pedal and balance bar should allow the pushrod of the master cylinders to fully return.
Page 136 Use one ¼”x ¾” screw and locknut from the pedal box hardware position the accelerator pedal using the top hole in the accelerator pedal mount so that the top of the pedal lines up with the accelerator cable hole so the cable will come out straight.
Page 137 Unpack the throttle cable and cut the cylinder end off. Make sure your cutters are very sharp so as not to fray the cable. Thread the inner cable through the cable retaining lock nut from the accelerator cable components assembly. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 138 Route the cable through the hole in the firewall and slide the sheath back over the cable. Tighten the cable sheath to the firewall with the retaining nut. A piece of tape on the end of the cable will help prevent it from backing out of the sheath.
Page 139: Steering System
Steering System Steering Rack  Needle Nose Pliers, ¾” wrench, ¾” socket, Ratchet  Steering Rack Assembly, Steering System Hardware  The inner Tie Rod Extensions are for stock Power Steering Racks only.  The inner Tie Rod Extensions are not for the FFR manual steering rack. ...
Page 140 Push the bushings and sleeves into the mounting bosses on the rack. Center the steering rack. Line up the steering shaft and adapter and push the rack onto the steering shaft. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 141 Bolt the rack into the frame. It is easier to do the driver side first then swing the passenger side down into the mount. Screw the grease nipple into the outer tie rod end. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 142 Thread the outer tie rod and jam nut 1”-2” down onto the steering rack inner tie rod.  The outer tie rods may come with either a castle nut and cotter pin or a nylon locknut. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 143 Attach the tie rod to the spindle, torque the nut to 25 ft-lbs. If a castle nut is used, torque the nut then install the cotter pin.  If the tie rod has a locknut instead of a castle nut, torque to 80Nm (59 ft-lb). www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 144: Steering Shaft
Steering Shaft  ”, ”, ”, ” hex keys, ½”, ”, 10mm wrenches, marker, drill, ” drill bit, Philips head screwdriver, 15mm deep socket, ratchet.  Steering bearings/Hardware, Steering shaft, manual steering rack and adapter. Unpack the steering shaft assembly. ...
Page 145 ” hex key. Remove the splined adapter from the end of the steering shaft using an Loosen the set screw, align the set screw with the flat side on the input shaft then slide the new adapter down onto the rack as far as possible. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 146 Slide the bearing onto the steering shaft so that the locking flange is away from the u-joint Loosely mount the top pillow block to the chassis with the set screw toward the rear of the car. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 147 Slide the steering shaft into the footbox from the engine bay. Insert the lower u-joint into the steering adapter. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 148 ” hex key. Tighten the adapter set screws using an ” x 1” button head screws, ” hex key and ½” Attach the flange bearing to the front of the footbox using the wrench. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 149: Upper Steering Shaft
” hex key and ” wrench. Tighten the adapter set screw and nut using a Upper Steering Shaft  ”, ”, ” hex keys, ½” wrench, rubber mallet  Steering system hardware  Use thread locker on all the steering shaft screws that do not have jam nuts and the adapter screws. Unpack the upper steering shaft from the primary chassis components box.
Page 150 Slide the steering shaft through the upper bearing and start it in the lower shaft. Turn the steering shaft so the recessed bosses for the spring washers are facing up and set the washers in place. Then tap the upper shaft down until the upper clip just disappears into the lower shaft. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 151: Cockpit Aluminum
Tighten the upper and lower bearings. Also tighten the set screw on the upper shaft. Cockpit Aluminum  Drill, ⅛” drill bit, rivet tool, Silicone, caulking gun, #8 self tapping screws, #8 hex nut driver, ruler, marker, Acetone or carburetor cleaner, rags. ...
Page 152: Passenger Footbox
Passenger Footbox Locate the passenger footbox top and drill and mark the holes in the top flat surface only. Silicone this panel where it meets the chassis and rivet along the bottom of the 2” square frame crossbar only. Use one of the original screws to temporarily hold it to the other small chassis tube. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 153 Drill the tunnel front A-shaped piece where it meets the chassis and silicone and rivet it in place. Mark and drill the two vertical edges of the passenger footbox inside wall. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 154 Silicone and rivet the panel to the front tunnel “A” and the footbox top. Mark the holes in the passenger footbox front panel upper and outer edges but do not drill yet. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 155 Silicone the panel and install with the temporary screws then drill through both panels and rivet it in place. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 156 Mark and drill all three flanges on the passenger outer footbox top. Silicone the flange between the outer top and the outer wall and attach the two pieces together using the temporary screws. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 157: Passenger Floor
Silicone the remaining flanges then install the outer wall/top on the footbox with rivets. Make sure the rear edge is flush to the chassis and not caught up on the door hinge before you start riveting. Passenger Floor Drill the passenger side floor where it was marked to attach to the chassis. Mark the two front flanges but do not drill yet.
Page 158 Silicone the chassis where the aluminum floor will touch. The main chassis rails are not riveted to but still need a bead of silicone run along the tops. The top edge of the tunnel is not riveted yet but gets silicone as well. Drill and rivet the floor in place to the chassis.
Page 159: Driver Floor
Drill, silicone, and rivet the right side under door piece in place. Leave the rivets out of the rear vertical flange for now. Driver Floor Drill silicone and install the driver’s footbox floor. The outer flange does not get drilled yet. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 160 Silicone, drill, and install the driver side floor. Install the left side under door aluminum like the right side. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 161: U-Joint Cover
Drill, silicone and install the inner footbox wall. The front flange tucks in behind the front wall that was left unriveted. Put a little silicone on both sides of this flange. U-Joint Cover Mark the rear tunnel cover where it meets the chassis then silicone and rivet it in place. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 162: Transmission Tunnel Rear Corners
Transmission Tunnel rear corners The inner rear corner pieces tuck behind the tunnel sides and sit on top of the floor. Mark the rivet spacing on the top edge and silicone and rivet the three flanges that make contact. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 163: Cockpit Rear Corners
Cockpit rear corners The outer cockpit corners get marked on the bottom flange and where they meet the chassis. Drill silicone and rivet these in place. Fuel System  ” and ” deep sockets, ratchet, ” wrench, rubber mallet, hammer, marker, punch or flathead ”, ”...
Page 164 Unpack the fuel strap fasteners. Unpack the ¾” square plastic end caps from the secondary body fasteners. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 165 Push the two plastic end caps into the tubes hanging down in front of the gas tank area. Put the Fuel tank bolts in the gas tank front frame mounts. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 166: Fuel Tank Vent
Hang the fuel tank straps from the rear mount of the chassis using two of the strap fasteners. The longer strap goes on the passenger side. Fuel Tank Vent  ¼”, ” sockets, ratchet, (2) 1” wrenches, Teflon tape, razor knife www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 167 Unpack the OEM fuel tank components including the tank and straps. Screw the vent into the plastic bushing and tighten. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 168 Insert the small rubber vent gasket in the small hole on the top of the tank. Push the vent into the grommet. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 169: Fuel Pick-Up
Fuel Pick-up  This install shows the set-up for a pick-up with an inline fuel pump. See www.factoryfiveparts.com/instructions for in-tank fuel pump set-up. Prep  If the car will have a high horsepower fuel injected engine there are a few “tweeks” we recommend get done to the fuel pick-up.
Page 170 Starting with a ¼” drill bit drill out the end of the send line then change to a ” or ”drill bit, the pressed end is a little restrictive. Starting with a ¼” drill bit drill out the end of the return line then change to a ”...
Page 171 Install Set the rubber o-ring gaskets in place for the fuel pump pickup. Slide the pickup down into the tank; you will have to rotate as you go to get the tubes into the sump and line up the tabs on the pick-up and slots on the tank. You can see this looking through the filler neck hole. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 172 www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 173 With the pickup all the way down slide the mounting collar and tap tightly into place with a punch and hammer.  Make sure that the lock ring is held by all three locking tabs on the tank or the sender will leak. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 174: Fuel Gauge Sender
Fuel Gauge Sender Set the rubber o-ring in place for the fuel level sending unit. Insert the fuel level sender into the tank. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 175 Tap the locking ring tightly into place with a punch and hammer.  Make sure that the lock ring is held by all three locking tabs on the tank or the sender will leak. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 176: Fuel Filler Neck
Fuel filler neck Insert the large rubber filler neck gasket in the side of the tank. Slide the filler neck tube into the tank. A little oil or WD40 on the rubber gasket helps. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 177 Slide the retaining bracket down the filler tube and mark its mounting location on the tank. Move the retainer out of the way and make sure your mark is outside the weld that holds the two tank halves together. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 178: Fuel Tank Install
Drill a ¼” hole through the tank flange on the mark made. Use the ¼”bolt and locknut to attach the retainer to the tank. Fuel tank install At the locations on the tank where the tank straps come near the tank, use a pair of pliers and bend the bent parts flat.
Page 179 Put the metal tank in the plastic tank cover. Using a jack, raise the tank up into place on the chassis. Make sure the plastic cover is in position below the tank. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 180: Fuel Filter
Bolt the straps in with the strap fasteners and drop the jack. Tighten only the driver’s side strap as the passenger one will be removed for aluminum fitment later on. Fuel filter  ”drill bit, drill, rivet tool, marker, tape measure, flat head screwdriver Tube bender, www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 181  Insulated clip hardware, Fuel line components, ¼”, ” fuel lines, OEM fuel tank components. Unpack the fuel filter and mounting hardware. Open the hose clamp and slide it through the slots in the mount and start to tighten it back up into a hoop just bigger than the filter.
Page 182 Clamp the filter in place on the mount with the filter flange oriented as shown. Attach the short nylon fuel line to the filter and the tank to show where your mounting location must be. The elbow end can attach to either end as shown here; we have attached it to the tank. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 183: Hard Lines
Hold the filter up to the 2”x 3” chassis tube, mark the holes, then drill and rivet the bracket on using ” rivets. Hard lines Unpack the fuel lines and the fuel line assembly which is in the secondary chassis components box. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 184  ” line is the send fuel line to the engine. If you are running a return system then there is The larger ¼” line provided for that as well. There are barbed fittings provided for both sizes.  The fuel line routing will depend on your style of fuel pump, whether it is in-line, in-tank, or mounted on the engine.
Page 185 From the filter we generally run the lines down the 2”x 3” tube behind the rear cockpit wall and alongside the outside of the main 4” frame tube.  Which side you run down may depend on where you are hooking up to your fuel rail, carburetor, or pressure regulator.
Page 186 Run the lines up the inside of the right footbox. Attach a 25” section of ” fuel line and fuel line clamp onto the vent. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 187: Brake System
Run the vent hose down to the ¾” tube near the battery and attach it to the tube using a zip tie. Brake System  ”, ¼”, ”, ⅝” drill bits, drill, rivet gun, marker, tape measure, razor knife, round file Tube bender, or sand paper, brake fluid.
Page 188 Screw in the hose barb. Loosely screw the mounting bracket onto the reservoir.  Make sure to mount the reservoir high enough so the top of the reservoir is higher than the master so the master can suck the fluid in to bleed the system. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 189 The brake reservoir mounts to the front of the footbox just inside the hood opening. Take the reservoir with cap and line it up so the reservoir can be filled with the body on. Mark the holes. The picture above shows the reservoir hose going through the accelerator cable hole as this was a fly-by-wire accelerator (coyote install).
Page 190 ” hex driver to screw the self-drilling screw into the footbox plate. Use a ” hole through the mounting bracket for the second hole location. Drill an www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 191 Screw the other mounting screw in. Attach the reservoir to the mounting bracket. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 192 If drilling a hole for the reservoir hose, drill a ⅝” hole one inch down from the bottom of the reservoir. Take extra time with a file and round all the edges making sure there are no burrs left or sharp spots. Route the fluid line for the master cylinders through the hole and press onto the bottom of the reservoir.
Page 193 Connect and split the hose to the two master cylinders using the Y provided. Make sure that the line cannot get in the way of moving parts, especially the brake pedal! Attach the master cylinder hose adapter to the master cylinder and use insulated clips from the secondary body fasteners box or zip ties to hold the lines in place.
Page 194: Front Flexible Brake Lines
Front flexible brake lines Unpack the hardware from the brake line components.  The crossed off parts in the picture above are for the stock Mustang Master Cylinder and flexible brake lines so are not used. The U-nuts, washers and button head screws are for the e-brake handle mounting. The small black screws are for the e-brake boot Unpack the remaining hardware from the front brake assembly.
Page 195 Lay out the various lengths of brake line so you can see what you have to work with. Like the fuel lines, there are many ways to run these lines but you must be very careful to keep them protected from moving parts, heat, or being to close to the bottom of the car.
Page 196 Push the brake line adapters through the brackets from the outside in and install the clips that hold them in place. Attach the front brake line to the caliper making sure there is a crush-washer on either side of the fitting and then screw the other end of the line to the fitting on the chassis.
Page 197 Screw the brake line T fitting into the end of the drivers side brake adapter and tighten. Make sure that your flex lines will not interfere with anything in the suspension, wheels during travel or turning full lock to lock. Torque the front flexible brake line to caliper banjo bolts to 29 ft-lbs.
Page 198: Hard Brake Lines
Hard brake lines Front  The ¾” master cylinder is used for front and the ” master cylinder is used for the rear brakes. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 199 Run a 60” brake line from the ¾” front master cylinder out the front of the pedalbox along the ¾” tube to the front suspension. Attach the brake line T to the flexible brake line mount and run the brake line into the end of the T. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 200 Run another 60” brake lines from the T fitting over to the right side flexible mount. The line will bend very easy but be careful not to kink it. ” rivets to hold it in place. When you are happy with the routing use the small insulated line clips and Mount the line clips and seal with silicone anywhere you pass into the passenger compartment.
Page 201 Use a long 60” brake line and route from the ” master cylinder out the front and down the front of the footbox. From the front of the footbox angle into the 4” main tube under where the footbox floor would be. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 202 Use a union to attach the another 60” brake line. Run the brake line up the back of the 2”x 3” tube using line clips and rivets on the 2”x 2” tubes.  At this point your routing will depend on your rear brakes. 87-93 Mustang solid axles have a single flex line that runs to the middle of the axle then out to the calipers.
Page 203 Solid axle Using the FFR rear brakes, we attached the flexible brake line mount to the driver side diagonal ¾” tube with the brake line clip. Attach the “T” adapter to the flexible brake line and route the hard brake line coming from the front to the “T”. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 204 Run a 60” brake line from the “T” up the ¾” tube to the front fuel tank mount tubes and over to the passenger side ¾” tube. An alternative to running it this way would be to run it across the backside of the 2”x 3” tube. Attach the passenger side flexible brake line mount to the ¾”...
Page 205  Make sure that your flex lines will not interfere with anything in the suspension, wheels during travel or turning full lock to lock. Tighten the banjo bolts on the calipers 2015 IRS Run the brake line up the 2”x 3” tube and 1” square tube up to the flexible brake line mount. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 206 There are a couple of different possibilities for flexible brake line mounts with the IRS, on the angled 1” tube as shown above (just make sure to leave enough room for the T junction on the left side) or mount to the 2”x 3” tube near the shock mount as shown in the next picture.
Page 207: Banjo Bolt Torque Specs
Banjo bolt torque specs Front Brake hose to caliper Banjo bolt – (39Nm) 29lbft Rear brake caliper hose to caliper Banjo bolt – (43Nm) 32lbft  When your system is finished being plumbed, go back and check all the fittings for tightness. Fill the system with fluid and bleed being very thorough in checking for leaks.
Page 208: Chassis Wiring Harness
Chassis wiring harness The chassis wiring harness routing and instruction are included with the harness. Trunk Aluminum  ” drill bit, silicone, rivet gun, caulk gun, ” wrench, ” hex key.  Mounted Aluminum, Packaged Aluminum, secondary body fasteners www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 209 Silicone and rivet in the trunk side panels. Remove the rear bolt of the passenger side gas tank strap. With the rear taillight harness tied up and secure, silicone and install the lower trunk floor. Re-install the gas tank strap and tighten. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 210 Silicone and install the trunk inner corner pieces. Silicone and rivet the fuel tank strap patch panel from the packaged aluminum assembly. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 211 Drill and silicone the upper trunk floor. Bend it in the middle to get it into position. Work the corners of the panel down over the roll bar mounts and seat harness tabs a little at a time on each side. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 212: Cockpit Rear Wall
Once the panel lies flat, finish rivet it into place. The rivets along the front 2”x 3” tube should be close to the back as possible for drill and rivet gun access. Cockpit rear wall Mark and drill the rear cockpit wall. Silicone the chassis and aluminum flanges where it attaches and rivet it into place.
Page 213: Battery Mounting And Cable
Battery Mounting and Cable  Drill, 1” hole saw, ”, ¼”, ” drill bits, rivet gun, marker, ” deep socket, ratchet, ½” wrench, ” hex key.  Secondary Body fasteners, Battery mounting kit, Insulated clip hardware, misc. electrical components, battery Unpack the Battery mounting kit.
Page 214 Position the battery with mounting bracket in the trunk for mounting. It is centered side to side with just enough room for the mounting bracket between it and the front of the trunk. Drop the J-bolts in the mounting holes and mark where they hit the trunk floor. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 215 Drill the ¼” mounting holes in the floor. Hook the j-bolts through the floor and bolt the battery down. Hold the j-bolts with a vice grip and be careful not to over tighten and crack or distort the battery. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 216 Remove any coating from the small circle in the trunk closer to the ground terminal of your battery. Drill through the center of the circle and put a washer down in the cut out. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 217 Bolt the ground strap to the chassis, the battery terminal is left off for now while the rest of the system is being routed. Drill out the hole you didn’t use for the ground with a 1” hole saw. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 218 Install one of the grommets in the hole. Route the small end of the batter cable from through the floor from the top and hook to the battery terminal. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 219 Attach the battery positive terminal and leave enough slack to be able to remove the terminal easily. Cover the remaining positive cable that runs underneath the car with the provided conduit to protect it from the elements. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 220: Drivetrain Install
” hole for the engine ground cable. Grind any coating from in and On the right engine mount there is a around the hole to give a good engine ground. Drivetrain Install  If installing a Coyote engine, call or check our parts catalog online for install instructions Transmission Prep ...
Page 221: Engine Prep
Trim it flush or just below the pad for the transmission mount. Engine Prep  Engine hoist, chain, ¾”, ” sockets, ratchet, extension  Engine, Polyurethane engine/transmission mount kit  The easiest method to install the drivetrain is with the engine and transmission already bolted together and lowered in as a unit.
Page 222 Unpack the engine mounts and attach to the engine. Don’t forget to attach the engine ground strap to a right side engine mount bolt. 87-95 Oil Filter Relocator  ⅞” wrench, razor knife, Teflon tape, chassis grease, ⅜” hex key ...
Page 223 Place the O-ring in the adapter groove.  If the O-ring will not seat properly, put it in the freezer for 15 minutes and use a small amount of chassis grease to hold it in place while spinning on the adapter. Tighten ½ turn after solid resistance is felt. The outlets for the hoses should be facing towards the front of the engine.
Page 224 Use Teflon tape on the threaded barbs and thread them into the oil filter relocator. Thread the short end of the threaded nipple into the relocator. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 225 Mark the hole locations for the oil filter relocator on the old AC bracket or on the front frame X member (preferred location). If you’re going to mount the relocate bracket on the X member. Drill the mounting holes for the relocator. ...
Page 226: Engine/Transmission Installation
Engine/Transmission Installation Lower the engine and transmission into place. The more hands you have to help the better. Go very slowly and make sure the transmission tail-shaft is above the rear cross-member. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 227: Engine Ground
Install the engine mount to chassis nuts and tighten down all the engine mount hardware. Make sure the alignment pins on the mounts are in the holes on the chassis pads. Engine Ground  Sand paper or grinder bit, ½” socket, ratchet, ”...
Page 228: Transmission Mount
Bolt the ground strap to the hole on the frame engine mount. Transmission Mount  ” hex key, ”, ¾” socket, ratchet, ¾” wrench, floor jack  Transmission mount/hardware www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 229 Unpack the A-frame transmission mount and hardware. Jack the transmission up and mount the a-frame underneath it. Normally this mounts above the frame tabs but can be mounted underneath if extra clearance is needed. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 230: Driveshaft
Install the bolts that hold the transmission to the mount and tighten all the hardware on the mount and a-frame. Driveshaft  14mm wrench, thread locker  Driveshaft Unpack the driveshaft and slip it up into the rear of the transmission. The most room to do this is usually to hold the shaft just above the center section and come in from the driver’s side.
Page 231: Solid Axle
Solid axle The driveshaft bolts are in the box with the driveshaft and should have thread locker on them already. If thread locker is not there, put a small bead on each bolt. Fit the driveshaft snug against the yoke and install the bolts and tighten. You can put the transmission in gear to stop the driveshaft from turning while you tighten.
Page 232: 2015 Irs
2015 IRS Insert the driveshaft into the transmission, bolt the rear flange to the driveshaft adapter and torque the bolts to 109Nm (80 ft-lb). Headers and J-pipes  ”, ” wrenches, ” socket, ratchet, extension, ” hex key  Headers or straight tubes and shorty headers or catalytic convertors and shorty headers www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 233 Mount up your headers to the engine. If you are using full length headers they bolt in place with the gaskets and hardware provided. Thread locker is recommended. If you are using Shorty headers or stock manifolds bolt them back on. On a small block (302 or 351) the headers are switched side to side and on the 4.6 the headers are flipped upside down.
Page 234: Fuel Line To Engine
If you are using the cats or j-pipes bolt them to the headers. The shorter pipe will go on the passenger side. Fuel line to engine  flat head screwdriver  Fuel line components, external fuel pressure regulator (if used) www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 235: Oil Filter Relocator
Finish running your fuel system by hooking up either to your carburetor or fuel rail. Here we mounted a pressure regulator on the firewall and ran a single line over to the rail. Oil Filter Relocator  Razor knife, flathead screwdriver ...
Page 236: Clutch Cable
Hook the oil lines up to the Oil filter Relocator and the adapter on the engine. Make sure that the lines go to the correct ports or the engine will be starved for oil. The out on the engine goes to the in on the Relocator and the out on the Relocator goes to the in on the engine.
Page 237 Route the clutch cable down to the bellhousing. Using zip ties or insulated clips tie the cable safely away from the headers and the moving steering components. It can be fastened to the engine using the bracket on the cable to the front lower bolt that holds the starter cable just before it leaves the block or, to the lower engine bay ¾”...
Page 238: Accelerator Cable
Thread the cable end adjuster nut on so that the cable has no play in it. Adjust the pedal closer or further away as desired by screwing the pedal stop screw up or down. Check the full range of travel for the clutch pedal. Accelerator Cable ...
Page 239 Cut the barrel fitting off the end of the cable. ” hex Push and twist the ball stud retainer onto the end of the cable and attach the ball stud retainer using a key. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 240: Carbureted Applications
Push the ball stud retainer onto the ball on the bottom of the throttle body. Make sure the accelerator cable is tied up and out of the way of moving or hot parts as well. Check the idle screw underneath the throttle body to see if the throttle arm is hitting it. If it is not, either loosen the ball stud retainer set screw and readjust the cable or, bend the small tab behind the accelerator pedal until the idle screw hits the throttle arm.
Page 241: Interior Fitment
Using a pair of wire cutters, cut the barrel fitting off the cable. ” hex Push and twist the ball stud retainer onto the end of the cable and attach the ball stud retainer using a key. Attach the engine end of the cable sheath to the cable mount on the engine using ⅜” and wrenches and 7/16”...
Page 242: Engine Wiring
Thread the inner cable through the cable retaining lock nut from the accelerator cable components assembly. Tighten the accelerator cable locknut. Push the ball stud retainer onto the throttle pedal. While pulling the cable tight, push the accelerator pedal up until it hits the frame and align the ball stud retainer with the cable.
Page 243 The hole in the firewall extension can be used to pass wires through from the engine to behind the dash and we often mount the computer inside the cockpit with the wires running through here. There is a cover plate that can be drilled to a smaller hole as well.
Page 244: Cooling System
Silicone and rivet the dash extension in position. Cooling System  Marker, Hack saw, Insulated Clip hardware, Drill, ¼” drill bit, ” Hex key, ”, ½” wrenches, ruler, flathead screwdriver.  Fan mounting components, Stainless Radiator Hose kit, Roadster cooling system, insulated clip hardware, packaged aluminum Unpack the roadster cooling system assembly.
Page 245: Fan Mounting
Fan Mounting Unpack the fan and push the four mounting brackets into the angled tab mounts. Center the fan on the radiator and mark the brackets to trim off the excess. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 246: Radiator Mounting
Remove and trim the brackets then bolt the assembly together using the hardware provided. Make sure and tighten the hardware that came pre-installed on the mounts. Radiator Mounting Zip tie the radiator in place on the chassis. The bottom section can just hang by a couple ties looped around the lower outlet and the drain.
Page 247 Mark the center of the radiator and the center of the chassis and offset the radiator by ⅝”. Drill the holes to mount the radiator top flange to the two small mounting tubes on the chassis. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 248: Stainless Radiator Hoses
Mount the radiator top to the flange with the hardware provided. The bottom stays zip tied for now. Stainless Radiator Hoses Unpack the stainless radiator hose kit and remove the hose connectors from the boxes. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 249 Use the smaller sections of tube inside the adapters to fit them to smaller fittings on the radiator and intake. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 250 Then fit the larger adapters over them. Upper radiator hose Start at the engine and route the tube above the “X” and to the upper radiator hose location. The inline filler neck goes in the upper hose. Mark the tube where it needs to be cut so that the tube will just touch the attaching location. Remove the tube from the vehicle.
Page 251 Mount the inline filler neck where it is both accessible and as high as possible. Lower radiator hose Connect the lower radiator tube to the engine. Run the tube next to the 4” main rail and under the steering rack to the radiator. Route the lower tube with enough slack to be able to adjust the radiator for the nose aluminum.
Page 252 Make sure that the lower hose is not hanging down. If necessary, zip tie the hose to the frame. Mark the tube where it needs to be cut so that the tube will just touch the attaching location. Remove the tube/hose assembly from the vehicle. Cut the tube using a hack saw or if available a cut-off wheel.
Page 253: Overflow Tank
Overflow Tank Unpack the overflow assembly. Bolt the mounting tabs loosely onto the tank so they can be slid around to fit. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 254 Pick the mounting location for the tank and mark the holes. Make sure the tank is accessible and visible inside to check the level on the finished car then bolt it in place. Mount the overflow tank to the frame/aluminum. Route the overflow hose from the filler to the overflow tank.
Page 255 Make sure you attach the hose to the tube that runs off the bottom of the tank and not the one that extends up into the tank. Put the radiator cap in place on the filler for now so it doesn’t get lost. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 256 If you did not use the hole in the F-panel for your hose routing then silicone and rivet the cover panel in place. For a cleaner look run the rivets you can get to from the engine bay out. There is a thermostatic fan switch provided to activate the fan. In your engine block or cylinder head locate a coolant access point to install the thermostat switch and thread it in.
Page 257: Fan Wiring
Fan Wiring  Wire crimp tool  Misc. electrical components. Attach the cooling fan wires according to the wiring harness manual. Speedometer Sending Unit  11mm deep socket, ratchet, wire crimping tool  Speedometer sending unit components, misc. electrical components ...
Page 258 Install the gear on the end of the sender and hold it in place with the clip. Put a little oil on the o-ring and install the sender in your transmission. Use the original bolt to hold the sending unit in place. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 259: Emergency Brake
Connect the plug and plug it into the sender. If you are running fuel injection you may also need to send this signal to the computer as well depending on your system. Emergency Brake E-brake Handle  ”, ” hex keys, ”, ½”...
Page 260 www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 261 Unpack the emergency brake handle components. Push a nylon bushing into one side of the fixed gear. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 262 Push the other bushing into the other side of the fixed gear. From the right side of one of the Handle to ratchet mounts, insert the shoulder bolt through the ratchet mount and then the fixed gear. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 263 Put the other ratchet to handle mount on shoulder bolt from the other side of the fixed gear. ” hex key and ½” wrench, tighten the shoulder bolt lock nut so that the ratchet to handle mount plates Using a are against the bushings but they can still move up and down.
Page 264 Slide the lower handle between the ratchet to handle mount plates and bolt the three pieces together using the ”x 1” button head screws. Put the ratchet tooth on the long anchor bolt as shown in the picture below. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 265 Rotate the fixed gear out of the way and pass the anchor bolt up through the lower handle. Rotate the ratchet tooth between the handle to ratchet mount plates and align the mount holes. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 266 Push the included spring pin through the ratchet mount plates and the ratchet tooth using a pair of channel lock pliers. Slide the 1” nylon spacer onto the end of the anchor bolt.  There are two nylon spacers included. They provide preload on the spring so there is more force holding the ratchet tooth to the fixed gear and making the release button harder to push.
Page 267 Spray a little WD-40 on the lower handle threads and screw the upper handle onto the lower handle. Insert the spring into the upper handle over the anchor bolt. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 268 Screw the button onto the end of the anchor bolt. Screw the male and female rod ends together. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 269 Use a wrench to spread the ears of the ratchet to handle mounts so that the rod end can just slide between them. Slide the male rod end between the ratchet to handle mount plates and attach it using the ¼” flange head bolt and locknut.
Page 270 ” carriage bolt into one of the bent mount brackets so the square shoulder is in the square hole. Insert a Attach the mount brackets to the fixed gear using a ½” wrench. Leave the locknut slightly loose so positioning can be done on the frame later.
Page 271 Check the fit of the emergency brake cable end in the brake cable clevis. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 272 If necessary, use a drill bit and drill or a dremel tool to open up the slot slightly. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 273 Facing the cable slots towards each other, attach one of the cable clevises to each side of the female rod end using the ¼”x 1.50” socket head bolt and locknut. Just start the nut for now, do not tighten it. ”...
Page 274: Cables
 This picture is shown without aluminum for easier viewing. Tighten the mount bracket to fixed gear carriage bolts. Cables Solid Axle  Your E-brake cables should be from the same car as your rear brakes.  87-92 Mustang cables or the FFR cables mount to the bracket up near the 2”x 3” tube. 93-04 Mustang cables mount to the bracket near the handle.
Page 275 For 87-92 and FFR cables route them through the upper bracket in the transmission tunnel until the sheath end clicks in place.  The following picture is shown without aluminum for easier viewing. For 87-92 and FFR cables route the inner cable down under the chassis 4” crossmember. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 276 Solid Axle Route the cables back to the calipers and attach. Make sure your routing is out of the way of any moving parts and the cable has slack to move with the axle. Emergency brake cable in caliper bracket. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 277: Handle And Cable Adjustment
Handle and Cable Adjustment  If using Wilwood brakes attach the two spacer brackets included with the brakes between the clevises and rod end. Remove the cable clevises from the rod end and attach them to the cable ends. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 278 Adjust the rod end so that the ¼” bolt goes through the rod end and both clevises and the cable is tight. Put the locknut back on the ¼” bolt hand tight. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 279 Slowly pull up on the handle to set the brake pads and remove any slack from the brake cables. Release the brake and if necessary remove the ¼” clevis bolt and readjust the rod end so that the cable is tight. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 280: Axle And Fuel Tank Vents
Reinstall the clevises and ¼” bolt then tighten the bolt so that the clevis ends are closed, this will prevent the cable ends from coming out. Axle and Fuel Tank Vents  Razor knife  OEM fuel tank components, insulated clip hardware www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 281 If using the FFR rear axle, attach the ¼” rubber fuel line to the vent tube on the rear axle or center section. Tie the top of the tube up high under the trunk allowing room for the axle to move. Attach the two foot section of ¼”...
Page 282: Aluminum Panels
Aluminum panels Transmission Tunnel Cover  ” drill bit, Silicone, Caulking gun, Rivet gun Drill,  Roadster Secondary Body Fasteners Components, Packaged Aluminum, mounted aluminum Silicone and install the transmission tunnel top. Silicone and install the shifter hole cover. Make sure it does not interfere with the movement of the shift lever. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 283: Driver Footbox Side Aluminum
Silicone and install the tunnel plug patch panel. Driver Footbox Side Aluminum  ” drill bit, drill, rivet gun, caulking gun, silicone  Mounted aluminum, packaged aluminum, secondary body fasteners Silicone and install the drivers side footbox outer wall. The front flanges tuck in behind the footbox front panel. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 284: Seats
Silicone and install the front patch panel. Seats  ” drill bit, drill, ” hex key, ½” deep socket, marker  Seat mount hardware, seats Unpack the seats and set them in the cockpit. Sit in the seats and locate them in the position you are most comfortable. This is a critical fitment so take your time and make sure you are happy with the location.
Page 285 Lift up the bottom of the cushion to reveal the seat frame. Using the rivet heads as a guide mark where the rails of the seat frame are above the seat mounting plates. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 286: Nameplate
Drill the first hole for the seat mounting and install the bolt. Drill the remaining holes for mounting the seats and install the bolts. Nameplate  ” drill bit, rivet gun, drill www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 287: Gauges And Dash
Secondary body fasteners, certificate of origin envelope  Factory Five Racing has included a Certificate of Origin along with a Nameplate for your kit. The serial number from the Certificate of Origin matches the number engraved on the 2”x 2” tube going across the car at the front of the cockpit on the driver side.
Page 288 Unpack the dash, dash cover and the gauges. Depending on which gauges you are using you may need to open up the dash holes for the tachometer and speedometer. If you need the larger holes the take a tin snip and cut through from the smaller hole to the tracing for the larger one halfway between all the tabs.
Page 289 Take a pair of pliers and snap the tabs off to get the larger opening. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 290 The ignition switch hole also needs opened up the same way. File the hole smooth and test fit the switch. Clean the dash off with some brake cleaner or acetone and spray the front surface and the back surface of the dash pad with adhesive.
Page 291 Stick the dash to the pad leaving about an inch border all around the top, the bottom will be bigger for the flange. Taping the ends of the pad helps to keep it flat. After giving the front adhesive time to set spray the bottom flange and pad and adhesive them together. This is a fairly tight corner so hold the dash in position with pressure on the mating surface with some full paint cans or something else heavy.
Page 292 Wrap the dash pad around to the back and glue it. Use some heavy books to hold the pad in place until the adhesive has a chance to dry. If you are having trouble getting the pad to stick on the bottom of the dash you can screw the corners down using some of the trim screws provided with the dash hardware.
Page 293 Using a razor knife, cut the gauge holes and switch holes out of the dash pad, cut the holes in from the ”. DO NOT cut out the steering shaft hole. aluminum about Using the razor knife cut a “+” sign pattern into the middle of the steering shaft hole. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 294 With the dash lying face down on a clean tabletop, bend the edges of the dash down 1.25” in from the ends so they are at a 45° angle. Install the gauges in the dash. Wire the gauges according to the instructions provided with them and with the dash section of the chassis harness.
Page 295 ” below the top edge Line the dash up with the hoop on the chassis. The corners of the dash support tube are of the dash. The tube will be lower as it goes to the middle. ” drill bit then drill Drill for the dash mounting screws (5 evenly spread) through the dash and chassis with a ”...
Page 296 Unpack the dash support panels from the packaged aluminum. Rivet the panels to the chassis and then use the trim screws to attach them to the bottom of the dash. Install your switches and horn button.  The factory Five Vintage gauges have built-in indicator lights so the large dash mounted ones included are not necessary.
Page 297: Horns
Mount the turn signal switch and high low beam switch as well as indicators in the dash. These can be mounted wherever you like, use a ½” drill bit for the holes on both the switches and indicator lights. Horns ...
Page 298 Attach one horn to the included bracket using one of the 14mm lock washers and nuts included. Note the orientation of the wire connectors when tightening the bracket so that it will be correct when installed. The flat horn outlet is pointed right. Mounting brackets on the horns www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 299 Holding the horns the connectors should be spaced so that the wires will not hit each other. Locate the chassis harness horn wires on the front chassis harness. Cut 2” off the end of the chassis harness horn ground wire and strip the end of the chassis harness ground wire. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 300 Twist the chassis harness ground wire and small wire ground together and insert them into one of the ¼” female connectors included then crimp the connector on. Cut the same 2”off the green horn power wire and strip the ends of both wires. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 301 ” mounting hole. Locate the horns on the upper radiator down tube and drill a ” hole so the Attach the two horns to the radiator down tubes using a supplied #14 screw. Then drill a second horns will not rotate. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 302 Attach the second #14 screw. Twist the chassis harness green wire and small wire ground together and insert them into one of the ¼” female connectors included with the horns then crimp the connector on. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 303: Steering Wheel
Attach the chassis harness horn wires to one horn and push the jumper wires on to the other horn. Either connector on the horn will work. Steering Wheel  ” hex key Philips head screw driver, 10mm wrench,  Steering wheel/Hardware www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 304 Unpack the steering wheel hardware. Bolt the steering wheel to the boss. The pattern is not symmetrical so it will only line up in one direction. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 305: Rollbar
Bolt the steering wheel assembly to the steering shaft. Use thread-locker on this bolt. Rollbar  ½” wrench, ” hex key, ” drill bit, Drill  Driver side Rollbar Assembly www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 306 Unpack the rollbar and mounting hardware. Slide the rear leg of the bar down into the chassis mount. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 307 Slide the main hoop into the chassis mounts and wiggle or tap with a soft mallet until it lines up with the rear leg. Slide the rear leg up over the mount on the hoop and make sure it comes all the way up flush. Clamp the rear leg up with a pair of vise grips.
Page 308 Drill a hole all the way through each of the lower mounts and rollbar main hoop.  ” With the thick tubing and curved surface it is much easier to start small and work your way up to a drill bit. Insert one of the bolts after drilling each hole to ensure that the rollbar does not move.
Page 309 Make sure the rear leg is tight up against the main hoop and drill the upper hole. This bolt will be visible so keep this in mind when deciding the orientation. Install the bolt loosely to keep the leg in place. Drill the remaining mount and install and tighten all of the bolts.
Page 310: Rolling Chassis Check
Rolling Chassis Check Front Suspension Now is a good time to double check all your hardware, make sure your wiring and hoses are away from extreme heat and moving parts, make sure the steering turns freely lock to lock, and make sure your brake flex lines have enough slack for the full range of wheel movement.
Page 311 Transmission Fill the transmission with fluid and install the shifter assembly. Leave the shift handle and knob off for now. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 312 Engine Fill the engine with Oil and coolant. Both these fluids should be rechecked after you have started the engine for the first time. Make sure there is some coolant in the overflow to start out, about full is good. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 313: Irs Axle Nuts
Suspension All of the suspension and steering components that have grease fitting need to be greased. With a grease gun squeeze grease into each fitting on all the control arms, including rear lowers on a slid axle, and tie rods. IRS Axle Nuts ...
Page 314: Wheels
Have a friend sit in the car and step on the brakes. Torque the rear axle nuts to 175 ft-lbs. Wheels Install and torque your wheels. Make sure they rotate freely and do not interfere with the brake calipers, lines, or any suspension components.
Page 315: Footbox Fitment
After running the car for the first time once coolant is added and while the system is still warm, retighten the hose clamps used on the cooling system. If you need to you can temporarily bolt your side-pipes in place to keep things quieter. If you have the space in your driveway or have access to a small parking lot it is very helpful to drive the chassis around a little to make sure everything is working before you seal it all up.
Page 316 pivot location a small adjustment will make a large difference. Set the pedal height of the clutch with the stop and cable adjuster, usually about ½” above the brake pedal. Make sure that your feet are comfortable on the pedals and you can press them all without hitting the others. You can also move the steering wheel in and out to get your arms at a comfortable angle until the set screw is tightened.
Page 317: Driver Footbox Aluminum
Driver Footbox Aluminum Rivet the remaining inner cockpit wall flange to the firewall. Silicone and install the footbox inside top panel. Leave the top flange un-riveted for now; use some clamps or tape to hold it in place. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 318 Silicone and install the outer footbox top section. Your rolling chassis is now complete! www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 319: Body Section
Chapter Body Section www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 320: Frame Preparation
The Body and panel mounting are a critical part of how your car will end up looking when it is finished. Whether you are having a body shop paint your car or doing it yourself, the best results will be from fully mounting the body, all the panels and getting them to fit properly and then removing the body for the paint process.
Page 321 The rectangular adhesive backed weatherstrip runs along the top of the chassis tubes on either side of the hood opening and the top of the curved trunk hoop. The push-on weather strip goes across the top of the firewall www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 322: Mounting The Body
The push-on weather strip goes across the top of the trunk walls and rear floor. Mounting the Body Rear Quick Jacks  ⅝” wrench, ⅝” socket, ratchet  Quick jack bumper components  The main locating points for the body are the rear quick jack mounts; these will set the body in the correct position front to back as well as locating the rear half up and down and side to side.
Page 323 Find the quick Jack hardware that came mounted on the chassis. The long sleeves go between the body and chassis with washers on both ends of all sleeves. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 324 The nut and bolt use a ⅝” wrench and socket to attach the rear quick jack bolts to the frame and body. Even with the quick jacks removed, it is still a good idea to wrap the bolts with some rags and duct-tape to save yourself from painful cuts or bruises.
Page 325: Front Quick Jacks/Front Mounts
Front Quick Jacks/Front mounts  ⅝” wrench, ⅝” socket, ratchet  Quick jack fasteners  Do not tighten the bolts until directed to do so. The body mounting bracket goes on the back side of the frame front mount. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 326 Assemble the quick jack parts in the order shown, the bolts can be installed either way around depending on personal preference. Use the shipping carriage bolt through the turn signal mounting hole until the turn signals are mounted. Center the body over the frame using a tape measure to measure from the lip of the body to the rear mounting plate of the front coil-over bracket.
Page 327 the car by lining it up with the front “X” member so that the tape measure is parallel. Make this measurement on each side of the body so that the front of the body is centered over the frame. Move the front of the body as necessary. If the body will not stay where you put it, put a screw through the hood lip of the body into the ¾”...
Page 328: Hood
Check the outside corners of the dash tube. Make sure there is a ½” or so gap between the body and frame. Try pushing down on the body here, it should move. If the tube touches it will affect the door front corner fitment. Use an adjustable or ¾” wrench to bend the tube down a bit, it will go easily the tubing has a thin wall.
Page 329 The hood has been trimmed slightly oversized to allow the panel gaps to be sanded down to fit. Set the hood in place and make sure it will fit the opening in the body, if needed sand or file the edges to allow the panel to just fit with a very small gap all around.
Page 330 ” long rivets to attach the bumpers through the body and into the frame. Once you are happy with the alignment you can set the panel gap and radius the edges. Place a couple of heavy objects like an alternator or driveshaft on the hood so that it will not move around then center the hood by eye. An easy way to set the gap is by using a marker.
Page 331 Sand, grind or cut the panel back so the marker line can not be seen. Remount the panel and the resulting gap ”. should be the same around the whole panel, about Use paint sticks around the edge to check the gap. Repeat this gap procedure later after mounting the doors and the trunk.
Page 332: Hood Hinge
Hood Hinge  ” Drill bit, drill, measuring tape, rivet gun, marker, ” hex key, ½” wrench  Hood hinge The hood hinge pivot mounts attach to the hood using rivets, the holes are predrilled in the hood liner but you ”...
Page 333 ” rivets. The ball points toward the inside of the Install the ball pivots for the hood struts on the hood using car. Press the bronze bushings into the holes in the hinge arms as shown. The short hinge arms are both the same. Left side long arm shown.
Page 334 Short arm with bushings pressed in. Attach the hinge arms to the arm support plate as shown on the following pages using the ⅜” shoulder bolts, wave washers, washers and nylon lock nuts. The flange of the bronze bushings should contact the arm plate. Tighten the nuts against the shoulder bolt shoulder.
Page 335 www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 336 www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 337 Right side shown Attach the hinges to the chassis using the carriage bolts, these push in from the outside for easier adjustment. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 338 Leave the bolts loose enough so that the hinge assembly can be positioned to match the hood. Set the hood in place and attach the two arms to the brackets from the underside of the body. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 339 If not already done, install the threaded ball studs in the hole on the long hinge arms with the ball pointed ” locknut. Then snap the gas piston shaft onto the ball. toward the outside of the car using a Attach the piston body end to the ball on the hood.
Page 340: Hood Handles
Hood Handles  ”, ”, ”, ⅝” drill bits, drill, measuring tape, Philips head screwdriver, pliers, marker, 2.5mm hex key, file.  Three lock set and fasteners Measure the center of the hood liner rib along the trailing edge of the hood and mark it. Measure out from the hood center 12”...
Page 341 Drill through the hood and the liner starting with smaller bits working up to a ⅝” hole. The larger bits sometimes work better by running the drill in reverse so they do not tear the fiberglass. Remove the hood handles from the three lock set and break off the bottom small tabs with a pair of pliers. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 342 Set the handles in the holes drilled in the hood so that they are lined up squarely with the edge and mark the screw holes on the hood. ” bit then screw the handles down using the screws from the set. Drill the holes with a www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 343 Shut the hood and mark the body where the hood handles line up. ” holes in the hood opening recess ¼” on either side of the centerline and ¼” Open the hood and drill two back from the edge of the opening. These are for mounting the hood catch brackets. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 344 The latch brackets are in the handle assembly, center them on the line with the corner edge up against the inner radius of the hood opening and mark the two holes. ” bit and file the edged of the bracket round with a file or grinder for a Drill the two holes just marked with a nice finish.
Page 345: Hood Scoop
The four remaining screws are used to hold these brackets in place. They can either be countersunk into the body or used to hold down the hood bumpers to hide them completely. Attach the cam wedge to the underside of the hood handles and adjust for tightness using a 2.5mm hex key. Hood Scoop ...
Page 346  Hood scoop, secondary body fasteners. On the top side of the hood scoop mark a line 0.25” in from the edge of the hood scoop flange all the way around the scoop. Mark the line 0.50” back from the front edge of the scoop. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 347 Mark the scoop every 3” along the straight sides of the scoop. At the front of the scoop, measure across the front and find the center then mark the top of the scoop. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 348 On the underside of the scoop, measure from the front back 19.50” and mark the scoop on both sides. At the lines marked, measure across and mark the center of the scoop. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 349 Use a square to transfer the mark to the back edge of the scoop then mark the top side of the scoop as well. Where the scoops starts to curve measure from the last straight rivet location 2.50” back and mark the line then another 2.50”.
Page 350 This should make the rivet spacing look even and have a rivet hole in the back center. ” holes around the edge of the scoop. Drill www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 351: Windshield
Windshield  Philips head screwdriver, marker, ½” drill bit, drill, hack saw, ¾” wrench, ratchet, ¾” socket, friend.  Windscreen box.  The strips along the sides of the windshield that the screws go into are brass. The brass threads strip easily so take your time and make sure that they thread correctly.
Page 352 With the help of a friend, slide the windshield down through the slots in the body until the bottom edge is resting on the body and mark the chassis mounting holes on the arms. If the arms are too long and prevent the windshield from sitting down then pull them back out and trim off the excess.
Page 353: Doors
Slide the windshield into position and bolt in place using the windshield mounting hardware. The windshield should remain bolted down while you fit the doors. Doors  ” hex key, marker, ⅝” socket, ratchet, air saw, orbital sander, ” drill bit, drill, rivet gun ...
Page 354 If you have removed them, remount the door hinges on the chassis. The square nuts sit alongside the tube so only one hex wrench is needed for adjustment. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 355 Use a jack under the side of the car to make sure the body is up against the bottom of the frame. Leave the jack so that the body can be moved in and out when pulled. Start with the body all the way in. Position the door in the body to see where it may need to be trimmed to fit the opening.
Page 356 Hold or tape the door in position and attach the hinge to the studs. Adjust the door with the hinge until the panel surfaces are lined up with the body. Start at the top of the door and match the curved surfaces. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 357 Once the front of the door is good, reuse one of the #10 self-tapping screws that the body was originally mounted with to lock the location in. Screw it up into the 2”x 2” tube near the front of the door. Push or pull the back of the body to line it up with the door if necessary.
Page 358: Door Latch
” Once the body is painted and final mounted rivet the bottom lip of the body to the chassis using the long rivets. Set the gaps on the doors as you did with the hood using a marker. Door Latch ...
Page 359 Remove the door latch striker from the original mounting bracket and keep only the striker and the washers. The bracket and nut will not be used. Bolt the striker onto the chassis putting enough shims on the striker to bring the base of the striker head flush with the door latch pad when the door is closed.
Page 360 Latch the door latch onto the striker and close the door. Adjust the striker if needed to fit the latch to the door cut out. You can also use the door latch spacers to help with this alignment. ” holes for the door latch. With the door lined up and the striker in place, mark and drill the Lubricate the moving parts of the latch using Lithium or silicone grease.
Page 361: Trunk
Bolt everything together to double check fit and operation. The door latches will be tight at first but break in quickly with use. Trunk  air saw, orbital sander, marker  trunk Trim the trunk lid edges enough so that it just fits into the opening. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 362: Trunk Hinge
Trunk Hinge  ½” wrench, ” hex key  Trunk hinge components. Press the bushings into the hinge arms from either side. ” locknuts to bolt the mounting pads to the arms leaving them just snug so they can Use the carriage bolts and be moved without loosening the bolts.
Page 363 Hang the hinge arms on the chassis using the shoulder bolts. You do not need the nuts for just doing fitment. Screw the trunk to the mounting pads also leaving them loose enough that they will just move. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 364: Trunk Latch
Close the trunk and wiggle it into position then open and tighten the bolts. This may take a little adjustment to get the trunk to sit down right. You can also use some of the rubber bumpers from the hood opening as a temporary means of holding the surfaces level.
Page 365 Find the trunk latch and components in the 3 lock set. Screw the trunk latch to the holder with the short #14 screws lining the small square hole with the hole for the handle. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 366 Bolt the handle to the trunk running the bolts through the trunk and the latch mount. Latch pin Close the trunk and with the latch in the locked position, mark the lip of the body where the latch is located. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 367 Use the latch sleeve on the latch to see the center height of the latch sleeve compared to the edge. Make sure the sleeve is 90 degrees to the latch. In the picture this is just above the edge but this is dependent on the gap around the trunk that you make.
Page 368 Use a paint stick or what was used to set the gap of the trunk to draw a line on the body where the edge of the trunk will be. With the pin location compared to the trunk edge known and the trunk edge marked on the body along with the lowest mount point of the pin cover marked, the locations should match up.
Page 369 ” drill bit. Drill the body location with a www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 370 Put the pin screw through the body and up to the frame. Use a level and a square to locate the end of the screw. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 371 Measure the height of the screw location from the lower ¾” tube. Transfer this measurement to the backside of the plate. Do the same for the side location. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 372 Install the long screw that holds the latch pin in place. It goes through the plastic cap then the body then the sleeve and into the chassis plate. Close the trunk and test fit the latch. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 373 If the latch is loose, it can be bent with channel lock pliers to snug it down. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 374: Body Stripes/Centerline
Body Stripes/centerline Use the outside radius of the headlight area to measure across and find the center of the body on the front deck. Use the oil cooler hole to find the center in this area. Use the inside rearview mirror for the center near the cockpit. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 375: Body Cut-Outs
At the top front of the trunk measure across and mark the top of body area. Use the trunk latch hole for this area of the body. Use a single piece of masking tape from the front lower oil cooler area to the bottom back of the body then cut the cockpit area out, trunk gaps and the hood gaps.
Page 376 Locate the template in the appendix and only cut out around the outside diameter of the circle. Tape the circle in the gas cap recess of the body. Use a 3½” hole saw for the center opening. If you do not have a hole saw this size, you can cut the center circle out of the template and use the remaining template to mark for a jig-saw instead.
Page 377 Locate the cap in the hole so that when open the cap will not hit the body and you will have access with a gas station filler handle. Use an ⅛” drill bit through the flange holes to mark all of the outer screw holes on the body. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 378 ” holes. Remove the cap and finish drilling the ” bit drill for the grounding strap bolt. For one of the holes on the inside of the body Use a www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 379: Tail Light
Tail light  ” drill bit, 1¼” hole saw, file, scissors. Drill,  Tail light template, Red rear light ” bit to drill the two outer holes for the taillight studs then cut out the center using a 1¼” hole saw. Use a There are marks on the body that locate these holes.
Page 380: Turn Signal
Test fit the lights and file the holes to fit if needed. Turn Signal  ” drill bit, 1¼” hole saw, marker. Drill,  Turn signal template, Amber front turn signal lights www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 381 Remove the gasket from the turn signal box and use it to center and trace the mounting holes and large center hole for the turn signal. ” drill bit and the inner with a 1¼” hole saw. Drill the outer holes with a www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 382: License Plate Light
This kit is only a collection of parts designed for use primarily as a race car. Applying the license plate bracket does not mean that this vehicle is street legal. Factory Five Racing does not build completed or partially completed street vehicles. If you choose to title, register and operate your kit on public roads, you are responsible for ensuring that the vehicle you build complies with all Federal, State and local laws regarding its use.
Page 383 Use a ruler to measure and mark the ends and the middle of the light area. Mark the top center of the light area. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 384 Align and tape the drill template in place. Remove the license plate light cover and use it to double check the template location. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 385 Drill the two mounting holes and the wire hole only. ” drill bit. Push the light into the trunk and drill through the license plate mounting holes with a www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 386: Side Exhaust
Side exhaust  Drill, 2½” hole saw, air saw or jig saw.  Side exhaust template The pattern for the standard exhaust cut out is pre traced on the body. Using a 2½” hole saw cut the upper two corners of the pattern out. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 387: Headlights
Using a jig saw cut the remaining straight sections and radius on the lower rear corner. Headlights  ”, ¼”, ” drill bit, razor knife, masking tape, air saw or jig saw, level. Drill,  Headlight template, headlight components, www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 388 Cut out the headlight templates from the back of the manual on the outermost diameter and tape them in the center of the fender with the line level with the ground. Cut the center of the template out and trace the inner circle with a marker. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 389 Drill the two smaller corner holes with a ¼” drill bit to mark their location. Follow this with a ” drill bit. Using a jig saw, cut the inner hole out of the body, use a larger drill bit to make a hole to start your cut. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 390: Side Louver
Test fit the light bucket and rubber gasket making sure that they sit flat and the bucket is centered on the fender. ” drill bit. Mark and drill the four mounting screws for the headlight bucket using a Side louver ...
Page 391 Use the template and measurements in the picture below to locate the template on the body. Use a 1¼” hole saw to cut the corners on the traced opening for the side louver. Connect the flush surfaces of the holes with a jig saw. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 392: Hood
Hood  ”, ” drill bit, marker, ruler, tape measure, jig saw or air saw, rivet gun. Drill,  Hood, secondary body fasteners. With the hood marked for its centerline, transfer this to the underside with another piece of tape. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 393 From the front edge of the hood measure back 19 inches and mark the underside of the hood. Place the hood scoop on the underside of the hood then use a square to locate the scoop left to right and the front marks to locate it to forward/backward.
Page 394 Mark around the edge of the hood scoop www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 395 Mark 1 inch in from the sides. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 396 Use the hood scoop to mark 1 inch in for the curved end. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 397 Mark the hood 2 inches back from the 19” front mark. Use a ruler to connect the two sides at the 2” mark. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 398 Mark the inner line to make sure the wrong line is not cut. Drill ¼ inch holes at the front corners of the area marked www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 399 Cut the opening in the hood using a jig saw or air saw. On the top side of the hood measure back from the front and mark the hood at 19”. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 400 Locate the scoop using the straight edge and two marks. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 401 ” drill bit. Drill two of the rivet holes on opposite sides of the scoop and the back center rivet hole using an After drilling each hole place a rivet in the hole so that the scoop does not move. Drill out the remaining rivet holes putting a rivet in each hole as you go.
Page 402: Roll Bar
Separate the two pieces for painting. Roll bar  Drill, 1¾” hole saw, air saw or jig saw, file  1.50” driver side Rollbar. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 403 The roll bar holes are marked on the body and need to be cut out using a 1¾” holes saw. The front two holes are cut centering the saw in the marked circle and drilling vertically to match the angle the bar comes through the body.
Page 404 The rear of the hole is then finished using the whole saw vertically. Trim the remaining flash on the opening with a file or jig saw. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 405 Put the rear rollbar leg through the body and onto the frame. If using rollbar grommets, put the rear ring and grommet on as well. If using rollbar grommets, put the front rings and grommets onto the rollbar hoop then put the hoop through the body and on to the frame.
Page 406 If necessary, use a plastic mallet to seat the rollbar hoop down and make sure the rear leg goes all the way up onto the hoop. Rollbar drilling  ”, ”, ” drill bits, drill. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 407 ” bit followed by a ” then a ” bit. Step drill the top of the rear leg first using an Insert the bolt through the top rollbar hole. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 408 Repeat the step drilling through the rollbar for both front lower mounts. After drilling each hole, put the bolt in the hole so the rollbar stays in the correct location. Drill the rear leg lower hole last making sure to drill through the frame mount. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 409 Optional rollbar grommets  ” drill bit, drill ” drill bit. Locate the rear grommet so that it sits flat then drill the holes using an www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 410 Locate and drill the front grommet holes. Remove the rollbar and drill any of the holes that were hard to reach www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 411: Final Prep
Final Prep  Sand paper  All of the exterior body accessories, Windshield and side exhaust must be mounted to the car to obtain the correct body location in order to create the correct gaps and opening sizes on the car before it is painted.
Page 412 The curled under side body edges are not as visible but just taking a little time here to get the lines straight and a small radius makes for a much nicer finish as well. The headlight, taillight, fuel cap, turn signal, quick jack, and trunk openings all are covered and do not need the finish work of the other areas.
Page 413: Body Painting
Body Painting  Remove all trim, doors, windshield etc. before beginning body work  The primer gel coat sands easily, and is a forgiving material to work with.  The body comes out of the mold with a wax release compound and a thorough cleaning with a wax remover is the best way to begin this job.
Page 414: Final Assembly
Chapter Final Assembly www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 415: Radiator Aluminum
Radiator Aluminum  Drill, ¼” Nut driver, ⅛”, ” drill bits, rivet tool, floor jack, marker, ruler, silicone, caulk gun.  Secondary body fasteners, engine bay aluminum.  Use care when handling aluminum, the edges are sharp and can cut you. The radiator and its plumbing were installed before the body was mounted.
Page 416 Pass the radiator floor piece through the nose. Position the radiator floor aluminum so that it goes under the body lip and goes across to the bottom of the radiator. Clamp the floor piece to the nose. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 417 Attach the radiator floor piece to the bottom of the radiator with a couple of self-tapping screws on the marks or use a couple of clamps. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 418 Drill, silicone and rivet the radiator floor aluminum to the bottom radiator lip. ” rivets. Silicone and rivet the aluminum to the nose lip using three www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 419 Pass the radiator sidepieces through the nose and put them on their respective sides.  Trimming aluminum may be necessary if you use the press-on rubber bulb seal weather-stripping. Line up the edge of the radiator fins with the edge of the side aluminum and attach the piece to the ¾” tube using a self tapping screw.
Page 420 From the backside of the panel, mark the location of the ¾” tube.  If using the press on bulb weatherstrip, make sure there is ⅜”-½” of gap between the edge of the panel and the body. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 421 Remove the side panel then measure, mark, drill rivet locations where the ¾” tube is located and press on the bulb weatherstrip. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 422 Reinsert the side panel then silicone and rivet the panel to the ¾” tube and the radiator floor aluminum. Repeat this procedure for the driver side panel. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 423: Carpet
Carpet  Razor knife, silicone, caulking gun, spray glue, brake cleaner or acetone.  Interior trim/carpet  ® The adhesive used to hold the carpet down is the same as we used on the dash pad. 3M Super77™ or Super90™ work best. Wipe down the bare aluminum with acetone or brake cleaner for good adhesion.
Page 424 Double check the aluminum edges and corners for any areas that look like they are not sealed. Run a small bead of silicone in these corners, seams and around the slots where the seat harness mounts poke through. Start with the large rear cockpit wall of carpet. Position it before gluing so you understand where it will go then, apply the adhesive and glue it into position.
Page 425 The cockpit rear corners go on next. Be very careful spraying the adhesive once some carpet is mounted. Guard the carpet with masking tape or cardboard. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 426 Test fit the rear and main tunnel covers. While you are fitting cut the handle opening for the e-brake and shifter. Glues down the tunnel top. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 427 The tunnel rear section is slightly oversized to make sure it can cover small variances in the way the other pieces lay down. Trim it for a perfect fit then glue it in place. Fit and glue the passenger outside footbox wall carpet section. The carpet tucks in behind the footbox protection tube.
Page 428 Fit and glue the driver’s side footbox outer carpet section. This piece also tucks behind the footbox tubing. Fit and glue the tunnel/firewall section of carpet. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 429 Fit and glue the lower floor sections. Fit and glue the under door sections. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 430: Seats Harness Lap Belt
The floors are the last pieces to go in. They may also need a slight trim for the best fit. Glue them down and vacuum the carpet prior to the seats going in. Seats Harness lap belt  ¾” wrench, ¾” socket, ½” drill bit, drill, ratchet ...
Page 431 Unpack the seat harnesses and hardware. Drill through the inner lap belt mount into the tunnel with a ½ in. bit. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 432: Emergency Brake Boot
Bolt the lap harness in position with the inner most nut inside the transmission tunnel. Emergency Brake Boot  ” drill bit, drill, Philips head screwdriver  Interior Trim/Carpet www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 433 Unpack the e-brake boot and a few of trim screws. Fit the boot over the handle and check the handle actuation. When you are in a position where the boot clears the handle movement drill through the material into the tunnel and screw it into place. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 434: Seat Final Install
Seat Final Install Drill back up through your seat mounting holes to put holes through the carpet and re-mount the seats. Seat Harness Shoulder Belts  Razor knife, ¾” wrench, ¾” socket, ½” drill bit, drill, ratchet  Seat Harness/Fasteners, Misc. electrical components www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 435 Use some of the serrated grommeting from the electrical assembly to cover the edge where the harness passes through. Cut the carpet with a single slit to allow the harness to pass through. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 436 Remove the mounting tab and slider from the harness. Slide the harness through the rear wall from the front. The shoulder harnesses are side specific so make sure you have the sides correct. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 437 Replace the slider and mounting tab and bolt the tab to the chassis. Adjust the harnesses to where they fit you comfortably. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 438: Shifter Handle And Boot
Shifter Handle and Boot  ½” wrench, ” drill bit, drill, Philips head screwdriver, marker, thread lock  Shifter handle components Unpack the shift handle and bolt it to the transmission. These bolts have a tendency to rattle loose so use a little thread locker.
Page 439 Push the boot and trim rind down over the handle so it sits flush on the tunnel. Using a silver marker or white paint marker, mark your screw holes on the tunnel. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 440 ” holes in the spots you marked. Remove the boot and drill Re-install the boot and screw down to the tunnel with the countersunk screws. A small screwdriver can help to locate the holes. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 441: Headlights
Screw the two piece knob onto the shift handle and tighten so the shift pattern is in the correct orientation. Headlights  Philips head screwdriver  Headlight components www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 442 Unpack the headlight mounting assembly. 13420 13418 13419 13415 13416 Headlight fasteners. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 443 Screw the adjuster screws about halfway into the buckets. Push the grommet into the side of the bucket. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 444 Run the light plug harness through from the inside Line up the headlight with the bucket to get the proper orientation. The bottom of the bucket is the only screw boss that comes in from the side and the writing on the headlight should be right side up. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 445 Screw the mounting flange onto the light with the 3 small tabs and small screws. The tabs are bent to fit around the bosses on the light. Put the gasket on the bucket with the adjuster bosses poking through the 2 larger holes. Screw the bucket to the body using the screw that came in the mounting assembly.
Page 446 Plug the light into the connector and mount the bulb to the bucket. The slotted parts of the mounting flange go onto the adjusting screws between the screw head and flange. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 447: Turn Signals
Push the spring clip onto the boss near the bottom of the bucket. Mount the trim ring hooking it over the bucket on the top and screwing it into the bottom using the countersunk screw. Turn Signals  ” deep socket, ratchet ...
Page 448: Tail Lights
Mount the turn signals to the body being careful not to over tighten the locknuts. Tail lights  ” deep socket, ratchet  Red rear lights www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 449: Gas Cap
Mount the taillights, also being careful with the mounting hardware. Gas Cap  Philips head screwdriver  Aston Lemans Cap www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 450 Unpack the fuel cap and mounting hardware. Put the gasket on the bottom surface of the cap. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 451 Set the cap on the body and screw in using 5 of the countersunk screws. Leave the inside most forward hole open. The one remaining cap fastener is a longer screw and nut used for the ground strap, screw it in from the top then put the ground strap washer and nut on from underneath.
Page 452: Side Louvers
Side Louvers  Silicone, caulking gun, duct tape  Side Louvers Unpack the side louvers. Holding the top and bottom flanges, bend the fins in so they are roughly at a 45° angle. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 453 Hold them up to the body to see how they fit. They are designed to allow air to exit the engine bay so the flanges point from the rear edge in. Apply silicone down the top and bottom flange on the side facing the body. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 454: Weatherstripping
Line up the louvers and tape them in place to hold them until the silicone dries. Weatherstripping  Razor knife, tin snips  Secondary body fasteners www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 455 If you haven’t already run the bulb seal up the sides and rear of the trunk and bolt the trunk hinges back in place and tighten. Cut out a section of the C channel where the hoop comes across to allow one piece to run the whole way. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 456 If you removed any of the other weatherstrip on the firewall or hood support tubes replace it now. When you are ready to mount the body, unpack the expanding foam and run a small section up the outside of each footbox just forward of the door hinge. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 457: Final Body Mounting
Final Body Mounting Fit the body back on the chassis. Be very careful with the sides and slowly work it down into position. Pull the sides out around the chassis and make sure the body covers the rear cockpit wall and top of he dash without pulling the material off either.
Page 458: Hood Mounting
Re-mount the nose with the front quick jacks. Hood mounting Rivet the scoop back in position on the hood. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 459: Rollbar Mounting
Re-install the hood latch plates and replace the bumpers you used before on the body to line up the hood. Re-Install the hood and latches. Rollbar mounting  A popular option are the Roll bar grommets. If installing them, do it now. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 460: Door And Latch Mount
Re-mount the roll bar through the body. Make sure that the rear leg is in the correct orientation so that your holes will line up. Door and Latch mount Reattach the doors and latches. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 461: Windshield Mounting
Once you are happy with the door fit install the covers on the door latches. Windshield Mounting Position the windshield trim plates with gaskets on the body so that the notch faces the inside front corner. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 462: Fuel Filler Neck
Re-mount the windshield. Fuel Filler Neck  Razor knife, ⅜” socket, ratchet, ” drill bit, drill  Aston Lemans Cap components www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 463 Ground the fuel filler strap to the chassis using the screw that came in the cap hardware.  This wire prevents any static charge build-up and must be used. Unpack the fuel filler neck hose and cut a 5” long section out of one end. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 464: Fuel Tank Access Covers
Install the hose between the filler neck and gas cap with the clamps that came in the cap hardware. Screw the plastic gas cap into the Aston Lemans style cap. Fuel tank access covers  ” drill bit, drill, rivet gun, silicone, caulking gun www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 465: Final Trunk Mounting
 Secondary body fasteners, packaged aluminum Silicone and install the patch panels in the trunk that cover the fuel sender and pickup access holes. Final Trunk Mounting  ” hex key Tin snips,  Secondary body fasteners www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 466 Push the side mount weatherstrip on the trunk opening starting at the bottom next to the latch pin hole and working all the way around just leaving a small gap for the head of the latch pin bolt. Re-mount the license plate light and trunk handle. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 467: Interior Rearview Mirror
Re-mount the trunk to the hinges and re install the latch pin. Interior Rearview Mirror  ”, ”, ” drill bits, marker, measuring tape Philips head screwdriver, drill,  Rearview mirrors/fasteners Use a tape measure to find the center of the body by measuring between the inside front door corner areas and mark this on the body.
Page 468 Use a tape measure to measure in from the body lip to roughly the center of the dash tube. On top of the boy measure in and mark the body for the center tube location. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 469 Line up the rearview mirror with the center mark and mark the holes in the body. ” drill bit and slowly (so the bit doesn’t walk off the tube) drill through the body into the tube at the Use a mirror hole locations.
Page 470 Put the plastic spacers between the dash tube and the body so the screws can go through them. Put the mirror screws through the mirror, body and spacers and screw them into the dash tube. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 471: Side Mirror
Side Mirror  ”, ” drill bits, marker, ⅜” wrench. Philips head screwdriver, drill,  Rearview mirrors/fasteners.  Only a driver side mirror is included with the kit. A passenger side one is available if desired. Unpack the side mirror assembly. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 472 Disassemble the mirror, removing the large base from the stand. The large base is replaced by the smaller insert and gasket. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 473 Temporarily bolt the mirror back together with the small insert. Sit in the seat to find a good location you can see it from and see clearly over the rear fender. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 474 Mark the location and use the gasket to locate and drill the mounting holes. Disassemble the mirror and bolt the mounting insert with mounting bolt and the gasket to the body. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 475 Slide the stand-off and upper gasket down the bolt and onto the mounting bracket. Bolt the main body of the mirror to the mounting stand-off. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 476: Light Wiring
Screw the mirror into the body and adjust it before tightening. Light wiring  Wire strippers, wire crimpers, chassis harness instructions  Headlight components, amber front turn signal lights, rear lights, license plate light, electrical system completion components www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 477: Check Straps
Wire in the headlights to the chassis harness. On the headlight, there are three wires, black is ground, white is high beam and the red is low beam. Wire the turn signals up to the chassis harness. On the light, the red wire is the dim light and the green wire is the bright light and the brass ring is the ground.
Page 478 Unpack the door check-straps. ” rivet. Rivet the check-strap to the door hinge using a Open a door wide but not enough so that the door hits the body. The straps will stretch slightly over time so allow enough room for this by closing the door slightly from the maximum. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 479 While holding the door open, pull the check strap tight and mark the location of the mount holes on the inside face of the 2”x 2” tube. ” holes at the marked locations and rivet the mount to the chassis. Drill www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 480: Under Door Aluminum
Under door Aluminum  ” drill bit, rivet tool, silicone, caulking gun, spray glue, tin snips. Drill,  Packaged aluminum, interior trim/carpet, secondary body fasteners Unpack the under door aluminum panels. They are shaped to fit around the bottom of the door with flanges to mount to the chassis.
Page 481: Steering Wheel Center Section
Test fit and then glue in the remaining carpet sections under the doors. Cut a section of the large C channel weatherstrip to fit from the bottom of the door hinge to the door latch and push it in place over the body, aluminum and carpet to finish the edges off. The barb side goes towards the inside of the car.
Page 482  Steering wheel/hardware, Factory Five Badge Unwrap the steering wheel center section and push it into the steering wheel and boss, a little WD40 on the o- ring helps if it is tight. Peel the backing off the badge and stick it in the center section making sure you are aligned with the top of the steering wheel.
Page 483: Side Exhaust
With the steering wheel in the position that is most comfortable for you tighten the set screws on the collar of the upper steering bearing. Side Exhaust  ”, ” Hex key, ⅜”, ½”, ” socket, ratchet, ” wrench, drill, ”, ”...
Page 484 Unpack the hardware for mounting the side exhaust. Bolt the mounting bracket to the pipe on the forward side of the bracket. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 485 Bolt the pipe and gasket to the header or J-pipe flange with using the shorter ⅜” bolts and mechanical locknuts. ” hole in the 2”x 2” outrigger tube directly above the middle hole in the mounting bracket. You want Drill a this hole as high as you can get it while still being able to mount the rubber exhaust hanger.
Page 486 Screw the rubber hanger onto the chassis with the sheet metal mounting screw using one of the washers between the rubber and the head of the screw. ” button Bolt the bottom section of the hanger to the side exhaust mounting bracket using the middle length head bolt with a washer to keep the hanger in place.
Page 487 Using the inner hole of the bracket as a guide, drill the 2”x 2” outrigger all the way through both of the tube ” bit. walls and into the footbox area with a Insert the rubber standoff between the bracket and outrigger and put the nut on finger tight then run the long ”...
Page 488: Aluminum Splash Guards
Tighten the whole assembly together. Aluminum Splash guards  ”, ” drill bit, drill, rivet gun, silicone, caulking gun, ¾” socket, ratchet, extension, marker  Secondary body fasteners, packaged aluminum, front wheel and tire www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 489: Front Wheel
Front Wheel Put some of the press-on bulb seal around the outside edge of the aluminum front splash guards (they look like large elephant ears)where they will contact the body. Hold the splashguards up against the rear bent lip of the engine bay “F” aluminum. Overlap the two lips. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 490 Fit the splash guards in position. If needed, trim them to fit around the outside edge, the weatherstrip will cover the trimming. Put a wheel and tire on the car and check for aluminum clearance. If necessary push the aluminum in and mark the inside of the body at the outer edge of the splashguards.
Page 491 Silicone and rivet the panels in place down the length of the flange. ” rivets to attach to the bottom of the fender just forward of the exhaust cut-out. Use one of the www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 492: Rear Wheel
Rear Wheel Push a piece of the bulb seal weather stripping around both rear splash guards where they will contact the body. Fit the panels in place and trim the outside perimeter if needed. The small tab on the bottom faces towards the rear of the car and is on the bottom.
Page 493 Silicone and rivet the panels in place. Bend the lower tab by hand to fit up flush with the body. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 494: Finishing Touches
” rivet as low as possible to attach the tab to the lower fender. Use a long Finishing Touches Review the Race car checklist in the appendix. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 495: Headlight Alignment
Headlight Alignment  Masking tape, marker, tape measure  Make sure that the car is at the correct ride height before the alignment procedure is done. Ride height should be 4½” at the front and 4½” at the back measured to the bottom of the 4” round tube with the normal number of people/weight in the car.
Page 496: Alignment Specifications
On a piece of masking tape, draw one horizontal line on the wall at a height exactly 2 inches lower than Measurement A. On the line, make vertical marks both to the right and left of the vehicle centerline mark at the distance of Measurement B from the vehicle centerline vertical line.
Page 497 ” Total Toe: For a car using power steering car use the following specifications: Caster: 7 Camber: -0.5 ” Total Toe: 2015 IRS only Camber: -0.5to -0.75° Total Toe: 1/8” Toe in Adjusting the upper control Arm  Use the diagram below for reference. Slightly loosen the three pivot bolts using a ⅝”...
Page 498: Optional Parts
2015 IRS ” wrench to loosen the upper control arm large jam nut and put some Once the car has been aligned, use a 1 Loctite on the threads where the jam nut will sit. Retighten the jam nut. Optional Parts Check out www.factoryfiveparts.com for the latest options available.
Page 499: Performance Reference Material And Technical Support
Chapter Performance Reference Material and Technical Support www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 500: Maintenance
Maintenance Check the items on the race car check sheet in the Appendix on a yearly basis or before track days depending on how hard the car is driven. Wheels  Only 7”-9” wheels are recommended for the front. If using a wheel wider than 7”, FFR front lower control arms are needed to prevent the wheels rubbing the control arms.
Page 501: 1994-1998 Rear End
17”x 9” and 17”x 10.5” FR style wheels. For a more vintage look, take a look at our Halibrand style wheels. Our online parts catalog: www.factoryfiveparts.com has more views of these wheels on cars. Left: 15” FFR Halibrand style. Right 17” FFR Halibrand Style 1994-1998 rear end Use two (4) 9”...
Page 502: 1999-2003 Rear End
1999-2003 rear end Because of the width of this rear end, custom wheels are needed if 10” or wider wheels are wanted. Use two (2) 9” wide, 5.95” backspace wheels in the front. See the table above for different width wheel backspacing. Performance Modifications The following modifications and set-ups fall under the category of getting more horsepower from your engine and making your car perform better.
Page 503: Efi Engines
EFI Engines  There are three things an engine needs; air, fuel and spark. If you allow more of each of these into the engine, it will make more power. Throttle Body Stock 87-93 Mustang size: 58mm A 65mm throttle body work well up to 350hp. Ford Racing, BBK, Jegs, Summit Racing etc… sell many other sizes.
Page 504: Oil Cooler
We’ve found that the Mustang factory headers work well for the stock engine. If you want to go to an aftermarket set, the 1⅝” MAC shorty unequal length headers or Ford Racing 1⅝” unequal length headers fit as bolt on parts. They will reward you with an approximate 5-10 hp bump in the top end. All aftermarket headers use mandrel (smooth consistent bends) bent tubing.
Page 505: Miscellaneous Brake Information
Superchargers Factory Five Racing customers have successfully installed Kenne Bell, Vortech, and Powerdyne superchargers in their cars. The key to any supercharger installation seems to be the side that the supercharger is hooked up on. Use the ones that mount on the passenger side. The drivers’ side blowers may get in the way of the steering shaft if the blower is too big.
Page 506: Helpful Reference Material
Helpful Reference Material Must Reads  www.thefactoryfiveforum.com The largest discussion forum for Factory Five Racing kits. Also has many vendor links. Helpful  5.0L Ford Dyno Tests. By Richard Holdener. www.cartechbooks.com  Building 4.6/5.4L Ford Horsepower. By Richard Holdener. www.cartechbooks.com ...
Page 507 Factory Five Racing does not build or sell completed or partially completed vehicles. We are aware of a number of performance and hot rod shops that claim to specialize in building race cars and kit cars. We have over the years compiled a list of some of them, which includes parts yards, used parts suppliers, paint and body shops, hot rod assemblers, and race car shops.
Page 508: Appendix A - Templates
Appendix A – Templates www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
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Page 519: Appendix B - Race Car Check Sheet
Appendix B – Race car check sheet www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 520 CAR_______________________________________ Date___________ Steering  Steering wheel tight  Universal joint set screws tight  Rack mount bolts tight  Tie rod ends tight  Tie rod to spindle bolts tight  Steering free lock to lock Front Suspension  Ride height ...
Page 521  Battery mount and connections secure  Brake lights functioning  All wires free and clear of moving or hot parts Rear Suspension  Ride height  Shock mounting bolts tight  Spring collars tight/taped  Wheel bearings tight (IRS) ...
Page 522: Appendix C - Torque Specifications
Appendix C – Torque Specifications General Bolt torque specifications* Thread English Zinc Plated Ft-Lb. ¼ -20 ¼ -28 ⅜ -16 ⅜ -24 ½ -13 ½ -20 ⅝ -11 ⅝ -14 Thread Metric Zinc Plated Ft-Lb. ATTENTION: Use the following specs in order to torque Stainless Bolts. ”...
Page 523: Appendix D - Fluid Specifications
Appendix D – Fluid Specifications Engine Oil Type Capacity 10W-30 5.0 qts. 4.6L 5W-30 8.0 qts w/FFR pan Transmission Oil Type T-45 3650 T-56 Mercon/Dexron III Trans. Fluid 2.8 qts. 3.25 qts. 4.0 qts. 2.64 qts. 4.0 qts 8.8 Solid Rear Axle Friction Oil Type Capacity...

Factory Five Racing MK4 ROADSTER Assembly Manual

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