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PART 17-1- GENERAL BODY SERVICE
17-7
Acrylic Enamel. Refinish panel.
(Prime if both color and primer
cracking.)
CROW FOOTING
Crow footing may be described
as small lines branching off from
a point in all directions and giving
the appearance of a crow's foot.
Crow footing is usually caused by
spraying a second coat before the
first coat is dry, by spraying an ex-
cessively thick coat, or by
thinners
which evaporate too fast.
Acrylic Enamel. Refinish panel.
(Color coat.)
DIRT
IN PAINT
Patches where dirt appears are
sometimes confused with
blistering.
To vertify the condition, prick the
suspected areas, and note whether
there is foreign material under the
surface.
Acrylic Enamel. Refinish panel.
procedure will be effective in most
cases.
(Color coat.)
MILDEW
Mildew
growth
which
occurs
along radial lines is most common-
ly found in a very dark
gray
or
black color.
Acrylic Enamel. Repair by polish-
ing.
OFF-COLOR
The term off-color is applied to
adjacent areas on which the colors
do not match
.
It may also appear
when making spot
repairs.
Acrylic Enamel. Refinish panel
if polishing does not correct condi-
tion (Color coat.)
ORANGE PEEL
Orange peel is a term used to
describe an uneven, mottled appear-
ance on the paint surface.
This is
usually caused by improper thin-
ning of the paint.
Acrylic Enamel. Refinish panel
if
polishing does not correct
condition.
(Color coat.)
OVERSPRAY
Overspray
is
evidenced
by
a
rough, dull finish in the area sur-
rounding the paint repair.
PEELING
Peeling occurs when large areas
of the finish or primer coat separate
from the metal or prime coat. This
is usually caused by wax
, grease,
rust or oil under the paint. Do not
confuse with orange peel.
PITS
AND POf-UPS
Pits
and craters may be ident ified
by the appearance of small round
depressions in the
paint.
These may
be caused by not allowing the first
coat ol dry sufficiently before apply-
ing the second coat or from failure
to remove silicone polishes before
repainting.
Acrylic Enamel. First use polish
repair procedure refinish panel if
necessary.
(Color coat.)
THIN PAINT
The
primer will show through
the fini sh coat as a result of an ex-
cessively thin color
coat,
or applica-
tion of the color coat before the
surface is
dry.
Acrylic Enamel. Refinish panel.
(Color coat.)
RUNS AND SAGS
The
.
uneven collections of paint
on the finish surface are referred to
as runs and sags. The collections
may
appear in the form of tear
drops or sagging lines. Usually these
lines
are quite soft and sometimes
the
y
may be wrinkled
.
This is usually
caused by over-application of paint
or hesitation in the stroke of the
gun
.
Acrylic Enamel. Use polish re-
pai
r
procedure.
SCRATCHES
Scratches
are thin marks or tears
that
may
partiall
y
or completely
penetrate the surface of the finish
coat of paint.
Acrylic Enamel. Use polish re-
pair procedure for shallow penetra-
tion
.
Refinish panels to correct con-
ditions of deep penetration.
SPOT DISCOLORATION
This is
evidenced by brown spots
or
stains
on the
surface.
Stains or
spots
can be caused by road
tar,
acid
or alkali-bearing water from the
streets.
Acrylic Enamel. Use polish re-
pair procedure.
WATER SPOTTING
Water spotting is evidenced by a
milky pattern where water drops
have fallen
.
Acrylic Enamel. Use polish re-
pair
procedure.
INDUSTRIAL FALLOUT
IndustJ;ial fallout
is
the result
of
particles
being exhausted into
the air by the
various
processes
of
heavy industry,
in
areas
where
there is
a concentration of such
industry.
Industrial fallout
particles
appear
to the eye as tiny rust coloured
dots
on the paint film and the sur-
face
feels
rough to the touch. Some
of the particles have excellent ad-
hesion and are difficult to remove.
However, the following procedure
has
proven effective in the removal
of
this
fallout
.
1. First, wash the car with car
wash compound to remove loose
soil. Rinse well and examine painted
surfaces for iron base fallout par-
ticles.
If there
is
a significant
quantity of fallout not removed by
ordinary
washing,
the acid treat-
ment should be used. All cracks,
ledges, grooves, etc., where fallout
has
accumulated should be cleaned
by wiping or by an air blow off.
2. Dilute 1 part hydrochloric acid
(commercial
grade)
to 100
parts
of
warm water and add one or two
tablespoonsful of a non-alkaline de-
tergent such
as
car wash compound
to every gallon of the diluted acid
mixture. Other neutral detergents
are permissible,
but all alkaline
compounds should be
avoided. This
acid detergent solution must be
prepared and kept in a clean NON-
METALLIC container.
Apply
this
solution liberally to
all affected
surfaces
of the car
with
a
large
sponge.
U se a broad
wiping stroke and keep the work
completely wet for about fifteen
minutes, or until the operator can
no longer feel any surface rough-
ness
or even isolated gritty par-
ticles
with bare or gloved finger
tips. If
this is
not done thoroughly
rust stain may soon re-develop.
Again,
it
is
most important that
the work be kept wet, since a
dry acid
residue is
not active in
loosening fallout.
Be
sure
that the entire acid
cleaning procedure
is
performed in
a sheltered area so that the work
will be kept
as
cool
as
possible,
to
prevent rapid evaporation of
water and consequent surface dry-
ing. DO NOT WORK IN THE
SUN.
Even a strong breeze
makes
it difficult to keep the job wet over
a
large area.
3. Rinse the job with clean water.
This
must
be
done very thoroughly
to prevent possible corrosion.
CAUTION
:
No
traces
of acid
should
be left on
any
surface.
Bright trim parts, particularly ano-
dized aluminium and
stainless
steel
may be stained by prolonged con-
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