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14-14
GROUP 14-
STARTING SYSTEM
starter retaining
screws.
On a car with
automatic transmission, the trans-
mission dipstick tube bracket is
mounted
under
the starter side
mounting
bolt.
Snug all bolts, then
tighten to specification, tighten the
middle bolt first.
3.
Reconnect the starter cable
from battery and wiring to switch.
MAJOR REPAIR OPERATIONS
DISASSEMBLY
1.
Remove the field coil/solenoid
linking
cable from the solenoid
terminal.
2.
Remove
the
starter
motor
through
bolts.
3. Remove the brush gear retain-
ing screws.
4. Withdraw
commutator
end
cover assembly and field yoke assy.
5.
Unscrew the solenoid retaining
nuts and remove the solenoid.
6. Remove the armature assy.
7.
Remove the thrust washer from
the armature
shaft.
8. Remove the jump ring.
9.
Remove
the
thrust
collar.
10. Withdraw pinion and drive assy.
11. Remove the pinion engaging
lever pivot lock nut, pivot and re-
move lever.
TESTING STARTER COMPONENTS
1
.
Clean and inspect all parts.
Check all bushings, bearing surfaces,
pinion, engaging mechanism and elec-
trical contacts for wear and replace
worn parts. Check electrical joints
and connections and repair where
necessary
.
2. FlEW COILS.
The field winding insulation can be
checked by connecting a 11 0 volt AC
15 watt test lamp between one of
the brushes and part of the yoke. If
the lamp lights it indicates that the
field coils are
earthed.
Remove and
rectify or replace the field coils as
required.
Check
field
coil
continuity by
connecting a 12 V battery operated
test lamp, between each of the field
coil brushes, and the field terminal.
The lamp will light if continuity is
satisfactory.
3. BEARING
REPLACEMENT.
Both end brackets are fitted with
self lubricating porous bronze bearing
bushes. New bushes must be immersed
in clean engine oil (SAE 30-40 Grade)
for a minimum of 24 hrs. before
fitting and must not be reamed after
fitting.
Bushes should be replaced on the
occasion of a major engine overhaul
or when the starter motor is to be
fitted to a replacement
engine.
The bush in the drive end housing
can be pressed out whilst supporting
the
housing.
Remove
the
bush
in
the
commutator end bracket by inserting
a 9/16" tap for a few turns into the
bush and withdraw the bush with
the tap.
4.
ROLLER
CLUTCH
AND
DRIVE.
The roller clutch is an over running
or free wheeling device, which pre-
vents the armature from being rotated
at an excessive speed in the event of
the drive being held in engagement
after the engine has started.
A roller clutch drive assembly in
good condition will provide instan-
taneous take up of the drive in one
direction and rotate smoothly and
easily in the other. The assembly
should move freely round and along
the armature shaft splines without
any roughness or tendency to bind
.
Should the assembly not meet
these requirements, a replacement
unit should be fitted.
All moving parts should be liber-
ally smeared with Molybond GS1 0
grease or a suitable equivalent.
5
.
BRUSH BOX.
Each of the four brushes should be
free to move in the brush box mould-
ing. Sticking brushes can usually be
freed by cleaning the brushes and
moulding with a petrol moistened
cloth. Brushes which are worn to or
are approaching 3/8" in length must
FIG. 3 -Testing the Brush Spring
tension.
be renewed as a set. Note the posi-
tions of the long and short brush
leads in relation to the commutator
end bracket and field winding term-
ination.
(a)
FIT
NEW
BRUSHES
AS
FOLLOWS:-
The two earth brushes, flexible leads
and fixing plates are serviced as
complete
assemblies.
To replace the field coil brushes,
cut off their flexible lead 1/8
-
1 /4"
from the field winding joint. Solder
the new long and short brush leads
to the ends of the original
leads.
Ensure that the insulated sleeves
on
the leads provide maximum
coverage consistent with satisfactory
soldering.
(b) BRUSH SPRINGS.
To measure the brush spring pressures,
position a new brush in each of the
brush boxes in turn and then press
on top of the brush with a push type
spring gauge until the top of the
brush protrudes about 1
I
16" from the
brush box moulding. At this point
the
~pring
pressure reading should be
approx.
28 oz. F. (see
FIG.
3).
6.
COMMUTATOR.
A commutator in good condition
will be burnished and free from pits
and
burned
spots.
Clean
the
commutator with a petrol moistened
cloth. If the commutator is badly
worn, mount the armature between
centres in a lathe, rotate at high
speed and take a light cut with a very
sharp cutting tool. Do not remove
more metal than is
necessary.
The
minimum thickness to which the
commutator may be skimmed before
replacement is 0
.080".
The com-
mutator surface should be finally
polished with very fine glass paper.
NOTE: The insulators between the
commutator segments must not be
undercut.
7. FOULING OF ARMATURE
AGAINST POLE FACES.
Fouling of the armature against the
pole faces indicates either worn
bearings or a distorted shaft. A
damaged armature must in all cases
be replaced and no attempt should be
made to machine the armature core
or to straighten a distorted shaft.
8.
ARMATURE WINDING IN-
SULATION
TESTS.
(a) To check the insulation of the
armature windings, remove all traces
of brush dust with a dry air blast
Using a 11 0 volt AC 15 watt test
lamp,
connect between a commutator seg-
ment and the armature shaft. If the
lamp lights replace the armature.
(b) Check the armature for short
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