Page 1 DUCATI SCRAMBLER 800 Workshop Manual 2015 S.01 - General Symbols - Abbreviations - References Product specifications Dangerous products - warnings General maintenance instructions General safety rules S.02 - Model-specific information Model identification Identification data S.03 - Technical data Technical specifications...
Page 2 Clutch control cable adjustment Changing the fluid in the rear brake system Changing the fluid in the front brake system Changing and cleaning the air filters Replacing the spark plugs Changing the timing belts Checking valve clearance Changing the engine oil and filter cartridge Check engine oil level S.05 - Fairings Rear-view mirrors...
Page 3 Charge system - Battery Rectifier-regulator Alternator Battery Topping up the electrolyte Recharging the battery Checking the battery charging system Electric starter Solenoid starter Starter motor Electric starting system Lighting Aligning the headlight Changing bulbs Instrument panel Entering PIN CODE function for overriding purposes Key duplication Operation Keys...
Page 4 S.07 - Chassis Front wheel Overhauling the front wheel (URBAN ENDURO) Overhauling the front wheel (CLASSIC) Refitting the front wheel Overhauling the front wheel Removing the front wheel Rear wheel Overhauling the rear wheel (URBAN ENDURO) Overhauling the rear wheel (CLASSIC) Refitting the rear wheel Overhauling the rear wheel Removing the rear wheel...
Page 5 Refitting the steering tube components Removing the steering tube components Steering angle adjustment Adjusting the steering head bearing clearance Rear shock absorber assembly Refitting the rear suspension Overhauling the rear shock absorber Removing the rear shock absorber Rear suspension system Swinging arm Refitting the rear swinging arm Overhauling the rear swinging arm...
Page 6 Removing the silencer (FULL THROTTLE) Refitting the exhaust system Removing the exhaust system Refitting the silencer Removing the silencer Canister filter Refitting the Canister filter Removing the canister filter Canister filter system S.09 - Engine Removing - refitting the complete engine Refitting the engine Removing the engine Lubrication system: oil pump...
Page 7 Refitting the primary drive gears and checking backlash Removing the primary drive gears Gearbox assembly: linkages Refitting the gearchange mechanism Refitting the gear interlock plunger and ratchet Disassembling gear interlock plunger and ratchet Removing the gearchange mechanism Gearbox assembly: gearbox shafts Reassembling the gearbox assembly Reassembling the gearbox shafts Inspecting the fork selector drum...
Page 8 Symbols - Abbreviations - References To allow quick and easy consultation, this manual uses graphic symbols to highlight situations in which maximum care is required, as well as practical advice or information. Pay attention to the meaning of the symbols since they serve to avoid repeating technical concepts or safety warnings throughout the text. The symbols should therefore be seen as real "reminders".
Page 9 GREASE Protective grease, with anti-corrosive and waterproofing properties. SHELL Retinax GREASE Grease PANKL - PLB 05 GREASE Grease OPTIMOL - PASTE WHITE T GREASE Grease PANKL - PLB07 GREASE Grease KLÜBER STABURAGS NBU 30 PTM GREASE Copper grease CUPRUM 320 LOCK 1 Low-strength threadlocker.
Page 10 LOCK Medium-strength threadlocker. Loctite 401 LOCK Instant adhesive gel offering tensile/shear strength. Loctite 454 gel DUCATI sealing compound. THREE BOND 1215 Sealing compound THREE BOND 1207B Exhaust pipe sealing compound. Self-sealing paste hardens when Holts Firegum heated and resists temperatures exceeding 1000 °C.
Page 11 General maintenance instructions Useful tips Ducati recommends you to follow the instructions below in order to prevent problems and obtain the best result: when diagnosing faults, primary consideration should always be given to what the customer reports about motorcycle operation since this information can highlight faults; your questions to the customer concerning symptoms of the fault should be aimed at clarifying the problem;...
Page 12 General safety rules Carbon monoxide When a maintenance operation must be performed with the engine running, make sure that the working area is well-ventilated. Never run the engine indoors. Warning Exhaust gases contain carbon monoxide, which is a poisonous gas that can cause unconsciousness or even death if inhaled.
Page 13 Identification data Each Ducati motorcycle has two identification numbers - the frame number and the engine number - and an EC nameplate (A) not present on the U.S.A. version. Note Please quote these numbers, which identify the motorcycle model, when ordering spare parts.
Page 14 Example: ZDM 800A2C ????? Following is the table with the engine part numbers. EC Plant Borgo Panigale VERSION Engine 800A2C ????? Engine 800A2C ????? EC Plant THAI version Engine 800A2D ????? Engine 800A2D ????? 1 = Manufacturer 2 = Engine type 3 = Progressive serial no.
Page 15 Lights/Instrument panel Reference Technical specifications Headlight Headlight low beam/high beam lamp type H4 (12V-60/55W) Parking light No. 1 LED (3.1W — 13.5V) Tail light Parking light No. 2 LEDs (3.24W-12V) Stop light No. 6 LEDs (7.9W-12V) Number plate light lamp No.
Page 17 Fuel system Important Do not use any additives in fuel or lubricants. Using them could result in severe damage of the engine and motorcycle components. Warning The motorcycle is only compatible with fuel having a maximum content of ethanol of 10% (E10). Using fuel with ethanol content over 10% is forbidden.
Page 18 Ignition system Reference Technical specifications Starting Type Electric starter motor 12 V - 0.7 kW Spark plugs Make and type NGK DCPR8E Electrode gap 0.7÷0.8 mm Injection system Make Type Control unit – –...
Page 19 Charging system/generator Reference Technical specifications Battery Voltage 12 V Charge 10 A/h Type Sealed-type, maintenance-free Generator Capacity 490 W - 14 V - 34.8 A...
Page 20 Hydraulic brakes Reference Standard value Service limit FRONT Brake disc Type Drilled disc Thickness 5 mm Flange material Steel Braking surface material Stainless steel Diameter 330 mm Brake calliper Make Brembo Type M 4.3 Calliper cylinder diameter 32 mm Pad friction material FERIT I/D 450-FF Master cylinder Type...
Page 21 Rear suspension Reference Technical specifications Type SACHS: monoshock with adjustable preload. Shock absorber Wheel travel 150 mm...
Page 22 Rear wheel Reference Standard value Service limit Minimum tread depth In the most worn part 2 mm Tyre pressure Cold 2.50 bar (rider only) 2.90 bar (full load) Swinging arm shaft runout On 100 mm 0.2 mm Wheel rim runout Radial 1 mm Sideways...
Page 23 Front suspension Reference Technical specifications Type KAYABA non-adjustable hydraulic upside-down fork Leg Ø 43 mm Wheel travel 150 mm Fork Oil level per leg 427 cc (right leg) 298 cc (left leg)
Page 24 Front wheel Reference Standard value Service limit Minimum tread depth In the most worn part 2 mm Tyre pressure Cold 2.50 bar (rider only) 2.50 bar (full load) Wheel shaft runout On 100 mm 0.05 mm Wheel rim runout Radial 1 mm Sideways 0.5 mm...
Page 26 Gearbox Reference Standard value Service limit Gearbox shafts End float 0.05÷0.020 mm Selector drum End float 0.10÷0.040 mm Gear selector fork Fork slider thickness 3.90÷4.00 mm n.a. Fork–to-gear clearance 0.1 ÷ 0.3 mm n.a. Fork to gear clearance for central slider 0.070÷0.285 mm 0.4 mm...
Page 27 Cylinder/piston Reference Standard value Service limit Cylinder liner nominal 88 mm diameter Max. oval 0.03 mm Max. taper 0.03 mm Diameter Section A 88.000÷88.010 mm Section B 88.010÷88.020 mm Section C 88.020÷88.030 mm Piston-to-bore clearance 0.025 ÷ 0.045 mm Piston Nominal diameter 88 mm Diameter...
Page 28 Crankshaft Reference Standard value Service limit Crankshaft Oval n.a. Taper n.a. Main journals alignment n.a. Crank pin diameter Ø 40.017 mm/Ø÷0.016 mm...
Page 29 Timing system/valves Reference Assembly value Checking clearance upon set mileage (Km 24,000 / mi 15,000) Timing diagram With 1 mm valve clearance Intake Opening 4° B.T.D.C. Closing 66° A.B.D.C. Exhaust Opening 61° B.B.D.C. Closing 7° A.T.D.C. Intake valve diameter 44 mm Exhaust valve 38.5mm diameter...
Page 30 Transmission Reference Technical specifications Clutch Wet, with mechanical control Clutch Cable type control Gearbox 6 speed Primary 1.85:1 drive Final drive 15/46 Gearbox With constant mesh spur gears, operated by a lever on the left side of the type motorcycle Transmission Gear ratios 13/32 18/30...
Page 31 DS20052 (LECHLER) Enamel MC060035 (LECHLER) Charcoal black frame AKZO NOBEL MY/2/9611AV Matt Black wheel rims PEHADUR EINBRENN-LACK VPCH03352 (Peter Lacke) Ducati Red Primer 2920007 (LECHLER) Enamel LMC06017 (LECHLER) Charcoal black frame AKZO NOBEL MY/ 2/9611AV Matt Black wheel rims PEHADUR EINBRENN-LACK...
Page 32 General Reference Technical specifications Motorcycle Total length 2100 ± 20 mm dimensions Total length 2140 ± 20 mm (CLASSIC) Total width 855 ± 20 mm Total height 1150 ± 20 mm Total height 1104 ± 20 mm (FULL THROTTLE) Seat height 790 ±...
Page 33 Rear tyre 180/55 - ZR 17 size Type of tyres Radial tubeless tyres Front brake Hydraulic, 1 calliper with ABS Rear brake Hydraulic, 1 calliper with ABS Engine Type Longitudinal 90º "L" twin cylinder, four-stroke. Bore 88 mm Stroke 66 mm Displacement 803 cu.
Page 34 Dimensions VERSIONS ICON 2100±20 mm 1450±20 mm 170±20 mm 790±20 mm 1150±20 mm 855±20 mm CLASSIC 2140±20 mm 1450±20 mm 170±20 mm 790±20 mm 1150±20 mm 855±20 mm URBAN ENDURO 2100±20 mm 1450±20 mm 170±20 mm 790±20 mm 1150±20 mm 855±20 mm FULL THROTTLE 2100±20 mm 1450±20 mm 170±20 mm 790±20 mm 1104±20 mm...
Page 35 Fuel, lubricants and other fluids Warning Failure to observe weight limits could result in poor handling and impair the performance of your motorcycle, and you may lose control of the motorcycle. Fuel, lubricants and other fluids Type dm(litres) Fuel tank, including a reserve of Unleaded fuel with 95-98 RON fuel octane rating (at least) 13.5 4cu.
Page 37 Engine tightening torque values Torque (Nm) Thread Description Threading Notes length Rated Min Max Gear selector control Gearbox drum positioning screw M16x1.5 27 Neutral sensor M10x1.25 9 Pre-applied Gearbox pawl screw M8x1.25 34 threadlocker Pre-applied Gearbox pawl screw M6x1 threadlocker Pawl positioner retaining nut M6x1 Clutch...
Page 38 Pre-applied 18-25 M6x1 Screw securing rotor to flywheel threadlocker M6x1 LOCK 5 Starter clutch flange retaining screw Connecting rod unit M24x1 330 346 LOCK 5 Flywheel retaining nut M22x1 190 209 GREASE B Primary sprocket retaining nut M10x1 GREASE B Connecting rod screw 1) Tightening 50 rpm...
Page 39 30-80-90 M6x1 12.5 13.5 14.5 Clutch cover closing screw Special screw securing generator cover to 30-35 M6x1 12.5 13.5 14.5 stud bolt Screw securing pushrod plug on generator M6x1 cover...
Page 40 Frame tightening torque values Nm ±10% Description Threading Notes Tolerance Stand Side stand rotation pin lock nut fastener M10x1.25 24 Side stand plate to crankcase fastener M10x1.5 36 Pre-applied threadlocker Stand sensor fastener M6x1 Pre-applied threadlocker Side stand rotation pin fastener M10x1.25 35 Chain and front sprocket Sprocket fastener...
Page 41 Electrical and electronic system Coil to frame fastener M5x0.8 RH/LH switch fastener M5x0.8 Battery cable to terminal fastener M6x1 Solenoid starter cable to starter motor fastener M6x1 GREASE D Battery cables/starter motor to solenoid starter M6x1 fastener Technical compartment to frame fastener M6x1 Control unit to puffer frame fastener Ground cable on engine fastener...
Page 42 Brake hose unions to brake master M10x1 cylinder/calliper fastener Rear brake fluid reservoir to frame fastener M6x1 Pre-applied threadlocker Pre-applied threadlocker M6x1 Pre-applied threadlocker Rear brake hose guide to swinging arm fastener M5x0.8 Pre-applied threadlocker Number plate holder Number plate holder plate to subframe fastener M6x1 Reflector fastener M4x0.7...
Page 43 Footpegs and levers: gearbox side Joint RH nut to gearbox rod fastener M6x1 LOCK 2 Footpeg to footpeg holder plate fastener M8x1.25 22* LH footpeg support to engine with stand front M10x1.25 36 fastener LH footpeg support to engine rear fastener M10x1.25 36 LH footpeg support to swingarm shaft upper M12x1.25 55*...
Page 44 Stainless steel plugs on exhaust pipes fastener M10x1.25 25 Rear heat guard to silencer fastener M5x0.8 Pre-applied threadlocker Lambda sensor (HOR.+VER.) fastener M18x1.5 45 Heat guard to horizontal exhaust fastener M6x1 Pre-applied threadlocker Horizontal heat guard plastic cover fastener M5x0.8 Silencer front heat guard fastener M5x0.8 Pre-applied threadlocker...
Page 45 Throttle body to intake funnel fastening clip Injector BING caps on manifold M5x0.8 Canister bracket to engine fastener M6x1 USA version Fairings Central side body panel bracket to RH + LH M5x0.8 frame fastener Central side body panels to bracket fastener M5x0.8 Rear RH side body panel to frame fastener (upper M6x1...
Page 46 Diagnosis special tools PART NO. DESCRIPTION IMAGE 28620441A "PC HASP DDS2.0" wrench 979000252 DDS 2 (Ducati Diagnosis System 2.0) 979000253 Belt tensioning 979000254 Diagnosis and power supply cable 979000255 Diagnosis and power supply cable (CAN) 979000256 Power supply cable from DDS battery...
Page 47 Frame special tools PART NO. DESCRIPTION IMAGE 80007.0139 Front wheel shaft wrench 88713.2562 Chain installation tool 88713.0958 Rotation bar for fork overhaul 88713.1010 Exhaust gas suction fitting 88713.1058 Wrench to fit steering tube 88713.1062 Steering tube bearing installation tool 88713.1072 Big end bearing driving tool...
Page 48 88713.3220 Engine repair work bench...
Page 49 Engine special tools PART NO. DESCRIPTION IMAGE 88713.0137 Primary drive sprocket retainer key 88713.0944 Oil cartridge wrench 88713.1749 Puller for driving pulley and cover 88713.1805 Driving pulley tightening tool 88713.1832 Engine repair work bench 88713.1994 Rocker arm shaft puller 88713.2011 Tool to block crankshaft at Top Dead Centre (TDC)
Page 50 88713.2092 Primary drive gear puller 88713.2282 2-valve cylinder head pulley positioning tool 88713.2442 Tool to install seal ring on valve guide 88713.2556 Clutch housing reaction tool 88713.2676 Cylinder head nut tightening tool 88713.2834 Snap ring installation tool 88713.2906 Oil cartridge wrench 88713.2916 Spring and rocker arm installation tool...
Page 51 88713.3218 Pulley ring nut locking wrench 88713.2103 Bearing surface for head installation 88713.3334 Selector fork positioning plate 88713.3367 Flywheel wrench 88765.1000 88765.1005 Fork feeler gauges 88765.1006 88765.1298 Valve lower shim check spacer 88765.1581 Valve lift gauge...
Page 53 Check the presence of any technical updates and recall campaigns on DCS. • Install any Ducati Performance accessories required by Customer's order and check their operation. • Final test and road test of the motorcycle (test correct operation of safety devices and electric fan).
Page 54 Scheduled maintenance chart: operations to be carried out by the customer List of operations and type of intervention km. x1000 [set mileage (km/mi) or time interval*] mi. x1000 Months Check engine oil level • Check brake fluid level • Check tyre pressure and wear •...
Page 55 Scheduled maintenance chart: operations to be carried out by the dealer List of operations and type of intervention km x 1000 12 24 36 48 Time Months mi x 1000 0.6 7.5 15 22.5 30 Reading of the error memory with DDS and check of software version update on •...
Page 56 Check tyre pressure and wear • • • • • 12 Check the battery charge level • • • • • 12 Check secondary air system operation • • • • - Check the operation of the safety electrical devices (side stand sensor, front and •...
Page 57 Adjusting the rear shock absorber The only possible adjustment on the rear shock absorber is spring preload. Turn adjuster (1) using the suitable wrench to set. Turn adjuster clockwise to decrease spring preload, turn counter clockwise to increase preload.
Page 58 Adjusting the position of the gearchange pedal and rear brake pedal The position of the gear change and rear brake pedals in relation to the footpegs can be adjusted to suit the preferred riding position. To adjust the position of the gearchange pedal, proceed as follows. hold the linkage (1) and slacken the counter nuts (2) and (3).
Page 59 Adjusting the front brake control lever Pull in the lever (1) towards the throttle twistgrip to operate the front brake. The system is hydraulically operated and you just need to pull the lever gently. The brake lever has an adjuster (2) for adjusting the distance between lever and the handlebar.
Page 60 Adjusting the throttle cable The throttle grip in all steering positions must have 2 to 4 mm of free play. To adjust, work the relevant adjuster (1) located on the control itself. Check the outer sheath of the throttle control cable for damage at regular intervals. The plastic covering should show no signs of pinching or cracking.
Page 61 Carefully close the control while engaging cable (4) into slide (5) on cover (2). Fasten cover and tighten two screws (3) to the torque of 1.8 Nm± 10%.
Page 62 Checking rear brake pad wear and replacing brake pads Check through the slot between the two calliper halves, and make sure that at least 1 mm of the friction material on pads is visible. Important Change both pads even if just one of them is worn. Change the brake pads as follows.
Page 63 Fit the new pads. Fit the centring pin (8) and fasten it with the snap ring (7). Note Change pads that have a shiny or "vitrified" appearance. Operate the brake pedal repeatedly so that the pads firmly bed in against the disc thanks to the brake fluid pressure.
Page 65 Checking front brake pad wear and replacing brake pads Warning Brake fluid is corrosive and will damage paint. Avoid contact with eyes and skin. In case of accidental contact, wash thoroughly with water. Important On handing over the motorcycle after changing the brake pads, inform the Customer that the front brake must be used gently for the first 100 km to allow the pads to bed in completely.
Page 66 Important Change both pads even if just one of them is worn. Change the brake pads as follows. Remove split pin (2) from the pad retaining pins. Force the calliper pistons back into their seats by forcing the old brake pads apart. Slide pad retaining pin (3) outwards.
Page 67 Warning Change worn pads of pads that have a shiny or "vitrified" appearance. Insert new pads and spring (4). Fit the centring pin (3) and fasten it with safety split pin (2). Pay utmost attention to spring (4) aiming, arrow must be pointing to wheel direction of rotation.
Page 68 Operate the brake lever repeatedly so that the pads firmly bed in against the disc thanks to the brake fluid pressure. Check that the level in the master cylinder tank is not below the MIN mark. If necessary, top up as follows. Turn the handlebars so that the reservoir is levelled.
Page 69 Remove the reservoir cover (5) by loosening the two screws (6). Remove reservoir inner membrane. Top up with recommended fluid up to maximum level. Refit the removed components.
Page 70 Adjusting the chain tension Slowly move the motorcycle until you find the position where chain is tightest. Set the motorcycle on the side stand. Measure chain tension at the centre of the lower section, with the motorcycle on the side stand: lower the chain by pressing down on it only with your finger, release it and measure the distance between the centre of the chain pins and the aluminium section of the swingarm.
Page 71 Work on screw (3), on both vehicle sides, to change the chain tensioning. Once adjustment is completed, visually make sure that the number of reference notches (5) is the same on both left and right chain sliders, taking edge (4) as a reference. Once the adjustment is completed, tighten nut (1) to a torque of 145 Nm ±...
Page 73 Adjusting the steering head bearing play Excessive handlebar play or shaking fork in the steering head indicate that the play of the steering head bearings requires adjustment as follows. Undo the four screws (1), remove U-bolt (2) and handlebar (3) from steering head, setting it so as not to hinder the following operations.
Page 74 Tighten screws (4) and (5) previously loosened to a torque of 24 Nm ± 5%. Reposition handlebar (3), install U-bolt (2), smear screws (1) with specified grease and tighten the four screws (1) to 25 Nm ±5%, following a 1-2-3-4-3 sequence.
Page 75 Clutch control cable adjustment Warning A wrong adjustment can seriously affect the clutch operation and duration. A worn clutch tensions the clutch cable. Always check the free play, with cold engine, before using the vehicle. Warning Lever free play adjustment must be carried out with cold engine and with the motorcycle on its side stand and the handlebar fully turned to the right.
Page 76 If the described conditions are not met, restore them as follows: Remove protection caps (7) and (8) and loosen adjuster (10) lock nut (9). To increase distance (A), increase the free play by tightening adjuster (10) and then working adjuster •...
Page 78 Changing the fluid in the rear brake circuit Changing the fluid in the rear brake circuit Unscrew the cover (6) of the rear brake fluid reservoir (7). Attach a transparent plastic tubing to the bleed valve (8) and insert the other end of the tubing in a container placed on the floor.
Page 79 Siphon the fluid from the reservoir (6). Fill the reservoir (7) with new oil up to the MAX mark. Attention During the filling operation, always keep the fluid level above the MIN mark to avoid any air bubbles in the circuit.
Page 80 Changing the fluid in the front brake circuit Warning Brake fluid is corrosive and will damage paint. Avoid contact with eyes and skin. In case of accidental contact, wash thoroughly with water. Remove the cover with membrane (1) from the front brake fluid reservoir (2) by undoing the screws (3). Siphon the fluid from the reservoir (2) using suitable equipment.
Page 81 Move the brake calliper pistons back: to carry out this operation undo the fixing screws (4) of the calliper on the fork bottom end and push pads taking them apart; during this operation, be careful with the fluid level, which must always be sucked out each time it flows back in the reservoir.
Page 82 Once that all pistons are fully moved back and that all the fluid in the tank has been sucked out, connect to the bleed valve (5) a transparent tube by immersing the end in a container placed on the floor.
Page 83 Fill the reservoir (2) with new oil up to the MAX mark. Pull the lever to make a 20 - 30 mm stroke and keep the lever in this position using a non-elastic clamp.
Page 84 Loosen the bleed valve of the calliper (5) and then take the lever through the whole stroke to allow fluid to flow out. The lever is resting against the handgrip.
Page 85 Tighten the bleed valve (5) to a torque of 4 Nm ±10% and then release the lever. Repeat the above operation until the old fluid flows out completely. Then, with the bleed valve definitely closed to the specified torque actuate repeatedly the lever until a pressure is detected in the brake system. Warning After draining the old fluid from the reservoir and while filling the system, always keep the fluid level above the MIN mark to avoid any air bubbles in the circuit.
Page 86 Changing and cleaning the air filters Remove the side fairings and disconnect voltage regulator (Removing the airbox). Loosen screws (1) on airbox cover (2). Remove the airbox cover (2). Remove filter (4) from cover (3).
Page 87 Blow cartridge clean using compressed air or change it. Important A clogged air filter will reduce air intake and engine power, increase fuel consumption and cause a build up of deposits on the spark plugs. Do not use the motorcycle without a filter as impurities in the air could get into the engine and cause damage.
Page 88 Replacing the spark plugs Check the colour of the ceramic insulation around the central electrode: an even, light brown colour indicates the engine is in good condition and running at the right temperature. Check central electrode for wear. Warning Do not use spark plugs with inadequate heat rating or incorrect thread length. The spark plug must be securely installed.
Page 90 Changing the timing belts Remove the exhaust system (Removing the exhaust system). Remove the belt covers (Removing the timing belt external covers). Working from vehicle left-hand side, loosen the two screws (3) and remove plug (1) from generator cover (2) . Fit tool (A) part no.
Page 91 Working on the opposite side, align the reference mark on belt roller (7) with the reference mark on crankcase (8) turning tool (A).
Page 92 This condition is the TDC in the combustion stage with the horizontal cylinder. Check it by inserting tool (B) in the spark plug hole. Now tool (A) pin (6) should be aligned with one of the two holes (5) on generator casing. Tighten pin (6) so as to lock out tool (A) rotation.
Page 93 Work on the vertical head and remove spark plug cap and plug (9). Fit tool (C) part no. 88713.2288 fully home. If that is not possible, turn belt roller (7) until tool (C) can be inserted fully home.
Page 94 Loosen screws (11) of pulley (12) - vertical and horizontal cylinder. Turn pulley counter clockwise.
Page 95 Loosen the two screws (13) from belt tensioner (14) on vertical cylinder and belt tensioner (15) on horizontal cylinder. Remove both belts.
Page 96 Fit belt (14) and tension it by hand using the mobile belt tensioner (16). Check proper tensioning using the suitable tool (D) part no. 97900.0253, frequency reading for proper tensioning is 140 Hz with a new belt. If this value is not reached, work the mobile tensioner (16) until getting the proper reading.
Page 97 Tighten screws (11) of pulley (12). Remove tool (C), tighten the plug and put back spark plug cap. Apply the same procedure to the horizontal head.
Page 99 Refit the belt covers (Refitting the timing belt external covers). Refit the exhaust system (Refitting the exhaust system).
Page 100 Checking valve clearance Remove the seat (Removing the seat). Remove the fuel tank (Removing the fuel tank). Remove the blow-by (Removing the airbox). Remove the following parts from the electrical component box: Battery; Starter relay; Fuse box; Remove the cylinder head covers (1).
Page 101 Fit tool part no. 88713.011 and ensure the two tool pins match the two slots on crankcase following the same procedure as for "Changing the belts". Turn the crankshaft so that the valve to be inspected is in rest position. With the valve in the rest position, slide a feeler gauge between opening rocker arm and shim to measure the clearance.
Page 102 With the valve in the rest position, slide a feeler gauge between closing rocker arm and shim to measure the clearance. Closing rocker arm INTAKE Assembly 0÷0.05 mm Inspection 0÷0.05 mm EXHAUST Assembly 0÷0.05 mm Inspection 0÷0.05 mm If detected values exceed the specified limits, replace opening and/or closing shims, as described in...
Page 103 paragraph "Removing the valves and rocker arms”, with one featuring an adequate thickness to obtain the specified clearance. Note Opening rocker arm shims measuring from 1.8 to 3.45 and closing rocker arm shims from 2.2 to 4.5 are available as spare parts: the size is punched on the shim. Reassemble the removed components in the removal reverse order.
Page 104 Changing the engine oil and filter cartridge Engine oil Note This operation has to be carried out with hot engine (but turned off) because the oil in these conditions is more fluid and comes out faster and completely. Remove the drain plug (1) with gasket (2) from the oil sump and allow the oil to drain off. Warning Dispose of oil and/or filter cartridges in compliance with environmental protection regulations.
Page 105 Filter cartridge Remove the oil sump filter cartridge (3) using service tool part no. 88713.2906. Important Dispose of the used filter, do not re-use it. Fit a new cartridge (3), using tool part no. 88713.2906. Use engine oil to lubricate seal. Note As an alternative, it is advisable to refill the filter cartridge with engine oil before fitting it: this enables the recommended oil level to be maintained without topping up.
Page 106 Every two oil changes, clean the oil intake mesh filter. Remove the exhaust system (Removing the exhaust system). Loosen outer plug (4) and collect seal (5). Loosen the filtering element (6) and slide it out. Clean the filter with fuel and compressed air. Take care not to damage the mesh. Refit mesh filter (6), seal (5) on plug (4) and tighten it to a torque of 42 Nm (Min.
Page 107 Check that there are no oil leaks and that the relevant warning light on the instrument panel switches off a few seconds after starting up the engine. If not, stop the engine and trace the fault. After a few minutes, check that the oil level is the specified one; if necessary, restore the MAX. level (8). Refit any removed parts.
Page 108 Check engine oil level Check the engine oil level through the sight glass (1) on the right-hand side of the oil sump. Stop the engine and allow a few minutes for the oil to settle to a steady level. Oil level must be checked with the vehicle perfectly upright and the engine hot (but off). Oil level must be between the MIN and MAX marks.
Page 109 Refitting the rear-view mirrors Position the RH mirror (2) with nut (1) on the U-bolt. Screw the RH rear-view mirror (2) in the indicated direction until reaching the required position. Then, keeping the rear-view mirror in its position, tighten nut (2), always in the indicated direction, to a torque of 25 Nm ±...
Page 110 Removing the rear-view mirrors Loosen nut (1) in the direction shown in the figure. Loosen the rear-view mirror (2). Follow the same procedure with the LH mirror.
Page 111 Refitting the tail guard Check that clips (7) are fitted on mudguard support frame (5). Fix the two turn indicators (8) with screws (9). Position splash guard (10) on frame (5) and fix it with screws (11).
Page 112 Fit cat's eye (12) and fix it with two nuts (14) with washer (13). Position number plate light (16) by inserting cable (15) in frame (5) as shown in the figure.
Page 113 Fix the number plate light (16) by means of screws (17). Position the wiring with ties as shown in the figure.
Page 114 Fit mudguard (3) and fix it with screw (6). Position the rear subframe/mudguard assembly on the vehicle. Start screws (4).
Page 115 Working on the lower side, start screws (1) and (2). Tighten screws (4), (1) and (2). Connect the turn indicator and number plate light connectors.
Page 116 Removing the tail guard Disconnect the turn indicator and rear number plate connectors. Remove screws (1) and (2) located on the lower side of the rear mudguard (3). Remove screws (4) that retain the rear mudguard (3) on both sides of the vehicle. Remove the frame/mudguard assembly.
Page 118 Refitting the seat release mechanism Insert lock (7) in the relevant hole of the underseat cover. Fit tabs (8) and (9) into the relevant recesses on the cover. Insert plate (10) on inner side of the underseat cover aiming it as shown in the figure. There is just one possible position because of elements (11) and (12).
Page 119 Fit nipple (3) into its seat (4). Position the underseat cover (1) and fix it by means of screws (2).
Page 121 Removing the seat release mechanism Remove the underseat cover (1), loosening screws (2). Remove nipple (3) from its seat on the lock lever (4). Release lock lever cable (5). Unscrew nut (6) and remove the seat opening device (7).
Page 123 Refitting the tail guard Reassemble the tail guard as follows: Check on both sides of the vehicle the presence of the two retaining clips (16). Fasten the two turn indicators by tightening screws (17) to the torque of 5 Nm ± 10%. If previously removed, join the tail guard upper part (13) with the lower part (14) using the two screws (15).
Page 124 Connect the two turn indicator connectors (11) and (12). Position tail guard (8) on the frame and start the two screws (9) and (10). Make sure that washers (18) are present on the screws.
Page 126 Start the two screws (7) in the tail guard lower side. Tighten the screws (9) and (10) to a torque of 5 Nm ± 10% and the screws (7) to a torque of 8 Nm ± 10%.
Page 127 Removing the tail guard Remove the two lower screws (7) of tail guard (8). Remove the two lateral screws (9) and (10).
Page 128 Separate tail guard (8) from the frame and disconnect the connectors of RH (11) and LH (12) turn indicators. Remove tail guard (8). To disassemble the tail guard, proceed as follows: Loosen the two screws (15) and separate the tail guard upper part (13) from the lower part (14).
Page 130 Refitting the rear side body panels Check the presence of the two clips (19) on the two side body panels. If not already present on the side body panels, fit trims (20) fully home by inserting the three pins (21) in the relevant holes with retainers (A) on the side body panels.
Page 131 Start screw (1) with washer (22) on RH rear side body panel (3). Start lower screws (2). Tighten screw (1) with washer (22) and the two screws (2) to a torque of 8 Nm ± 10%. LH side body panel Position the LH side body panel (6) inserting pin (23) fully against rubber block (24).
Page 132 Start screw (4) with washer (25) on LH side body panel (6). Start lower screws (5). Tighten screw (4) and the two screws (5) to a torque of 8 Nm ± 10%.
Page 133 Removing the rear side body panels Remove the seat (Removing the seat). RH side body panel Loosen the upper screw (1) and the two rear screws (2) of the underseat side body panel (3).
Page 134 Remove the side body panel by pulling it outwards. LH side body panel Loosen the upper screw (4) and the two rear screws (5) of the underseat side body panel (6).
Page 135 Release the side body panel front side. Slide out the side body panel by sliding it first downwards and then towards the rear side so as to release it from the shock absorber.
Page 137 Refitting the seat Position the rider seat (2) by inserting the front catch (A) under the tank fastener (B), as shown in the figure. Push the seat rear end until pin clicks in place inside latch.
Page 139 Removing the seat Insert the key into the catch (1) and turn it clockwise until the latch disengages with an audible click. Slide out seat (2) from the front side by lifting it.
Page 140 Refitting the front mudguard Position support (4) in the suitable seats (3) of front mudguard (1). Fix the mudguard/support to the steering plate (5) by tightening screws (2). Upon assembly, check the presence of rubber elements (6) and cable support (7).
Page 141 Removing the front mudguard Loosen the four screws (2) from the lower side of the front mudguard (1). Remove the front mudguard (1).
Page 142 Refitting the front mudguard Position the front mudguard by centring it on the forks. Start four screws (2) with spacer (3) on front mudguard (1).
Page 144 Tighten the four screws (2) to a torque of 8 Nm ± 10%.
Page 145 Removing the front mudguard Loosen the two screws (2) from both sides of the front mudguard (1). Remove the front mudguard (1).
Page 147 Refitting the belly pan On the vehicle left side, if previously removed, install bracket (3) by tightening screw (5) with spacer (4). Make sure clip (6) is in place. If previously removed, install bracket (7) and fix it by means of screws (8) with spacers (9). USA version Besides the support (7), fix also the Canister support (12).
Page 148 On the vehicle right side, if previously removed, install mounting bracket (19) by means of screw (16) with spacer (17). Make sure clip (18) is in place. Check that rubber elements (20) and spacers (21) are fitted on the sump guard.
Page 149 Fix heat guard (2) by tightening screws (1).
Page 151 Removing the belly pan Undo screws (1) that retain the belly pan (2). Remove the belly pan (2).
Page 152 Table Z For the complete index of the wirings, divided by tables, refer to chapter "Routing of wiring on frame".
Page 153 TABLE AA...
Page 154 For the complete index of the wirings, divided by tables, refer to chapter "Routing of wiring on frame". TABLE BB...
Page 155 For the complete index of the wirings, divided by tables, refer to chapter "Routing of wiring on frame". TABLE CC...
Page 156 For the complete index of the wirings, divided by tables, refer to chapter "Routing of wiring on frame". TABLE DD...
Page 157 For the complete index of the wirings, divided by tables, refer to chapter "Routing of wiring on frame".
Page 158 Table Y For the complete index of the wirings, divided by tables, refer to chapter "Routing of wiring on frame".
Page 159 Table X For the complete index of the wirings, divided by tables, refer to chapter "Routing of wiring on frame".
Page 160 Table W...
Page 161 For the complete index of the wirings, divided by tables, refer to chapter "Routing of wiring on frame".
Page 162 Table V For the complete index of the wirings, divided by tables, refer to chapter "Routing of wiring on frame".
Page 163 Table U For the complete index of the wirings, divided by tables, refer to chapter "Routing of wiring on frame".
Page 164 Table T For the complete index of the wirings, divided by tables, refer to chapter "Routing of wiring on frame".
Page 165 Table S For the complete index of the wirings, divided by tables, refer to chapter "Routing of wiring on frame".
Page 166 Table R For the complete index of the wirings, divided by tables, refer to chapter "Routing of wiring on frame".
Page 167 Table Q...
Page 168 For the complete index of the wirings, divided by tables, refer to chapter "Routing of wiring on frame".
Page 169 Table P...
Page 170 For the complete index of the wirings, divided by tables, refer to chapter "Routing of wiring on frame".
Page 171 Table O For the complete index of the wirings, divided by tables, refer to chapter "Routing of wiring on frame".
Page 172 Table N...
Page 174 For the complete index of the wirings, divided by tables, refer to chapter "Routing of wiring on frame".
Page 175 Table M For the complete index of the wirings, divided by tables, refer to chapter "Routing of wiring on frame".
Page 176 Table L For the complete index of the wirings, divided by tables, refer to chapter "Routing of wiring on frame".
Page 177 Table K...
Page 179 For the complete index of the wirings, divided by tables, refer to chapter "Routing of wiring on frame".
Page 180 Table J...
Page 181 For the complete index of the wirings, divided by tables, refer to chapter "Routing of wiring on frame".
Page 182 Table H For the complete index of the wirings, divided by tables, refer to chapter "Routing of wiring on frame".
Page 183 Table G...
Page 184 For the complete index of the wirings, divided by tables, refer to chapter "Routing of wiring on frame".
Page 185 Table F For the complete index of the wirings, divided by tables, refer to chapter "Routing of wiring on frame".
Page 186 Table E For the complete index of the wirings, divided by tables, refer to chapter "Routing of wiring on frame".
Page 187 Table D For the complete index of the wirings, divided by tables, refer to chapter "Routing of wiring on frame".
Page 188 Table C For the complete index of the wirings, divided by tables, refer to chapter "Routing of wiring on frame".
Page 189 Table A For the complete index of the wirings, divided by tables, refer to chapter "Routing of wiring on frame".
Page 190 TABLE A For the complete index of the wirings, divided by tables, refer to chapter "Routing of wiring on frame".
Page 191 Routing of wiring on frame TABLE NAME REF. TABLE A Stepper Map Sensor TABLE B Air T. TABLE C Pick up TABLE D TABLE E Horizontal lambda sensor TABLE F Vertical lambda sensor TABLE G Engine pressure sensor TABLE H Left-hand switch TABLE J Clutch switch...
Page 192 Neutral switch TABLE V Rear wheel speed sensor TABLE W Tail light cable TABLE X Rear turn indicator TABLE Y Left turn indicator Engine temperature TABLE Z Front speed sensor TABLE AA Instrument panel TABLE BB Number plate light cable TABLE CC Horn TABLE DD...
Page 193 Fuse box key Fuse box key Pos. El. item Rat. Key-on 10 A El. loads 15 A Instrument panel 10 A Control unit Injection 20 A ABS motor 25 A 10 A...
Page 194 Wire colour coding B Blue W White V Violet Bk Black Y Yellow R Red Lb Light blue Gr Grey G Green Bn Brown O Orange P Pink...
Page 195 Key to wiring diagram Front stop switch Clutch switch Right-hand switch Key switch Left-hand switch Fuse box Mobile phone power socket Bluetooth Module ABS control unit 10 Starter motor 11 Fused solenoid 12 Battery 13 Alarm 14 Rectifier 15 Generator 16 Rear right turn indicator 17 Tail light 18 Rear left turn indicator...
Page 196 Rectifier-regulator Regulator (1) is located on the front side of the airbox. The rectifier/regulator consists of an aluminium casing containing the diodes that rectify the current produced by the generator. It also contains an electronic device that regulates the current supplied by the generator in accordance with battery voltage.
Page 198 Refitting the regulator Position the regulator (1) on the support. Tighten the screws to the specified torque of 10 Nm ± 10%. Connect the connectors (2) and (3). Important Do not disconnect the battery cables when engine is running because this would cause irreparable damage to the regulator.
Page 199 A blown fuse can be identified by breakage of the inner filament (B).
Page 200 Important Switch the ignition key to OFF before replacing the fuse to avoid possible short-circuits. Warning Never use a fuse with a rating other than the specified value. Failure to observe this rule may damage the electric system or even cause fire.
Page 201 Alternator / Generator The generator used on the Scrambler has a rated power of 490 W at 14 V and consists of a fixed element (stator/generator, A), located in the generator cover and a mobile element (rotor/flywheel, B) fastened to the crankshaft.
Page 202 Battery Battery safety rules Warning Before carrying out any operations on the battery, keep in mind the safety standards. When under charge, batteries produce explosive gases. Keep batteries away from heat sources, sparks or open flames. Instructions for battery use The battery is a sealed, maintenance-free type and therefore requires no special installation procedure.
Page 203 Disconnect the battery cables first from the negative pole (5) then from the positive one (6). Remove the battery (2). Warning Insulate the ground cable ends you just removed to prevent them from touching the motorcycle. Refitting the battery Position the battery (2). Connect the positive pole by means of screw (6) by tightening it to a torque of 10 Nm ±...
Page 204 Fit cover (4) and fix it with screw (3). Fasten the battery/cover by means of belt (1).
Page 205 Topping up the electrolyte Remove the battery (Battery). Warning Before carrying out any operations on the battery, keep in mind the safety standards (General safety rules). The electrolyte in the battery is toxic and can cause burns if it comes into contact with the skin because it contains sulphuric acid.
Page 206 Important Keep the cap strip (3) to hand because it will be used later to plug the battery cells. Warning Do not peel or perforate the sealed areas. Place the electrolyte container (2) upside down. Align the six sealed elements with the six filler holes on the battery.
Page 207 Note Do not tilt the electrolyte container as this could interrupt the flow temporarily or even permanently. Make sure that air bubbles emerge from all six filler holes. Leave the container in this position for at least twenty minutes. If no bubbles emerge from one of the holes, tap gently on the bottom of the respective container. Important Never move the container away from the battery.
Page 208 3-12 Ah batteries: leave to stand for at least 30 min. Over 12 Ah batteries: leave to stand for at least 1 hour. Set the cap strip on the filler holes without securing it. Recharge the battery as described in the paragraph "Recharging the battery".
Page 209 Recharging the battery Refer to the label on the battery showing the inspection intervals in order to determine when to test the voltage. Charge the battery if the open circuit voltage is lower than 12.8 V. Leaving the battery discharged for more than one month could damage it.
Page 210 Checking the battery charging system Perform checks on the system as indicated in the following paragraphs: Recharging the battery Topping up the electrolyte Battery Alternator Rectifier-regulator...
Page 211 Solenoid starter The solenoid starter (1) is located under the seat, inside the electrical components compartment. Remove the seat (Removing the seat). Disconnect the battery (Battery). Removal procedure Disconnect solenoid starter connector (2) from the wiring. Slide the solenoid starter out of its seat. Remove protection (3).
Page 212 Checking operation of the solenoid starter. Apply 12 V (battery voltage) across the positive terminal and negative terminal of the connector. With a multimeter connected between the two poles (threaded pins) of the solenoid starter, check for electric continuity. If there is no electric continuity, ensure that the terminals are not oxidised and apply water repellent spray. Change the solenoid starter if the malfunction persists.
Page 213 Refit the seat (Refitting the seat).
Page 214 Starter motor Electric features: 12 V / 0.7 kW The starter motor is highly compact and reliable, therefore rarely raises any operating issue. In case of faults: - ensure that the starter motor wiring terminal is properly tightened under the nut and shows no sign of oxidation;...
Page 215 Electric starting system The electric starting system consists of a solenoid starter (1) and a starter motor.
Page 216 Aligning the headlight Position the vehicle with tyres inflated at the indicated pressure (“Front wheel" and "Rear wheel”) and a person seating on the seat, perfectly perpendicular to his/her longitudinal axis. Position the vehicle 10 metres from a wall or a screen. On the wall or surface, draw a horizontal line at the same height from the ground as the centre of the headlight and a vertical line aligned with the longitudinal axis of the motorcycle.
Page 218 Replacing the light bulbs — Headlight Removing the light assembly Remove retainer (1) and the headlight regulation screw (2). Loosen screw (2) on the opposite side. Remove screws (3) that retain U-bolts (4) of headlight (5).
Page 219 Remove headlight (5) and disconnect connector (6).
Page 220 Refitting the light assembly Connect connector (6) to headlight (5). Fit headlight (5) by matching seats (A) with the two pins (6) on the headlight support subframe (7).
Page 221 Fix the U-bolts (4) by tightening screws (3) to a torque of 5 Nm ± 10%.
Page 222 Screw the headlight regulation screw (2) until reaching the correct orientation. Then, insert the safety retainer (1). CHANGING BULBS To remove the bulb, remove the headlight from the frame (Replacing the headlight). Remove retaining screws (1) of the bulb cover (2).
Page 223 Remove bulb (3) by releasing spring (4).
Page 224 (E). Important If this procedure is necessary in order to start the motorcycle, contact an Authorised Ducati Service Centre as soon as possible to fix the problem.
Page 226 Key duplication When a customer needs spare keys, he/she shall contact a Ducati authorised service centre and bring all keys he/she still has. The Ducati authorised service centre will program all new and old keys. The Ducati authorised service centre may ask to the customer to prove to be the motorcycle owner.
Page 227 Operation Every time you turn the key from ON to OFF, the protection system activates the engine block. If also in this case you are not able to start the engine, contact an authorised Ducati service centre. Warning Strong impacts could damage the electronic components inside the key. During the procedure always use the same key.
Page 228 Keys The motorcycle comes with 2 keys. They contain the "Immobilizer system code". Keys (B) are those for the standard use, i.e. to: start the engine; open the fuel tank plug; open the seat lock. Warning Separate the keys and use only one of the two to ride the bike.
Page 229 Activations through diagnosis instrument The DUCATI diagnosis instrument allows performing a series of activations to check some instrument panel functions and resetting parameters or warning lights. After each activation, the instrument panel will restore its standard functions.
Page 230 Light control Low / High beam This function allows you to reduce current consumption from the battery, by managing headlight switching- on and off. Upon Key-On, low and high beams remain off (OFF). By starting the engine, the low beam will be automatically activated; from now on, the "standard" operation will become active, i.e.
Page 231 Setting the units of measurement This function allows changing the units of measurement of the displayed values. To manually set the units of measurement, you must enter the SETTING MENU. Select UNITS option, by pressing button (1) or (2). Once function is highlighted, press CONFIRM MENU button (4).
Page 232 Setting the units of measurement: Temperature This function allows you to change the units of measurement of the Air Temperature indications. To gain access to this function enter the SETTING MENU, use buttons (1) and (2) to select UNITS and press button (4).
Page 233 After 3 seconds the instrument panel shows "WAIT" for 2 seconds; then the "DF-OK" message indicates that the units of measurement have been restored.
Page 234 Changing the PIN CODE To change the existing PIN CODE and activate a new one, you must open the SETTING MENU. Select PIN CODE option, by pressing button (1) or (2). Once function is highlighted, press CONFIRM MENU button (4). Note If upon accessing this function, the "N : "...
Page 235 You can change your PIN CODE an unlimited number of times. Activations through diagnosis instrument The DUCATI diagnosis instrument allows performing a series of activations to check some instrument panel functions and resetting parameters or warning lights. After each activation, the instrument panel will restore its standard functions.
Page 236 Note The activations must be performed only with key turned to ON, engine off and battery voltage ≥ 11.0 V. PIN CODE reset This activation allows "erasing" the previously stored PIN CODE to enter a new one.
Page 237 The motorcycle owner must activate (store) the PIN code; if there is already a stored PIN, contact an Authorised Ducati Dealer to have the function "reset". To perform this procedure, the Authorised Ducati Dealer may ask you to demonstrate that you are the owner of the motorcycle.
Page 238 The VIN code is an alphanumerical code with 17 characters that clearly identifies a vehicle (family, model, country, serial number, …). This code can be stored in the instrument panel and read through the DUCATI diagnosis instrument with suitable KWP2000 inputs.
Page 239 Clock setting function (CLOCK) This function allows setting the clock. To view this function, enter the Setting Menu, use button (1) or (2) to select CLOCK and press button (4). To access the setting function, keep button (2) pressed for 3 seconds. After 3 seconds it is possible to set the clock as follows: the "AM"...
Page 240 Instrument panel back-lighting setting (B.LIGHT) This function allows adjusting the backlighting intensity. To set the backlighting, enter the SETTING MENU, use buttons (1) and (2) to select "B.LIGHT" and press button (4) to confirm. When accessing the function, the active mode flashes whereas the MENU and EXIT messages will be steady Use buttons (1) and (2) to select the desired brightness level (HIGH, MED, LOW) and press button (4) to confirm.
Page 241 Battery voltage This function allows you to check the motorcycle battery voltage. Enter the SETTING MENU. Select BATTERY option, by pressing button (1) or (2). Once function is highlighted, press CONFIRM MENU button (4). You open the BATTERY Menu. The information will be displayed as follows: if battery voltage is between 11.8 V and 14.9 V the reading will be displayed steady;...
Page 242 By setting "–" (Off), the ABS will be disabled and the relevant warning light will start flashing. Important When setting the ABS OFF, Ducati recommends paying particular attention to the braking and riding style. If the ABS is in fault, "Err" is displayed when entering the function and Menu will indicate "NO RQ", since no...
Page 244 Setting menu This menu allows enabling, disabling and setting some motorcycle functions. To enter the SETTING MENU it is necessary to hold button (3) for 2 seconds, with Key-ON and motorcycle actual speed ≤ (lower than or equal to) 20 km/h: within this menu, it is no longer possible to view any other function.
Page 245 SERVICE. The indication includes displaying for 5 seconds the flashing message "SERVICE", the Desmo symbol and the message "DESMO" upon each Key-ON; after 5 seconds, both the message "SERVICE" and the Desmo symbol become steady until Key-OFF or until an Authorised Ducati Service Centre performs a reset.
Page 246 Activations through diagnosis instrument The DUCATI diagnosis instrument allows performing a series of activations to check some instrument panel functions and resetting parameters or warning lights. After each activation, the instrument panel will restore its standard functions.
Page 247 Key-OFF or until an Authorised Ducati Service Centre performs a reset. Activations through diagnosis instrument The DUCATI diagnosis instrument allows performing a series of activations to check some instrument panel functions and resetting parameters or warning lights.
Page 248 Service indication (SERVICE) This indication shows the user that the motorcycle is due for service and must be taken to a Ducati Authorised Service Centre. The service warning indication can be reset only by the Authorised Ducati Service Centre during servicing.
Page 249 High engine temperature This Function shows an alert indicating that engine temperature reached high values: warning triggers when engine temperature exceeds 200°C. flashing HI message; steady temperature icon and set unit of measurement (°C or °F). Note When this warning is triggered, the instrument panel will not display the clock until value gets equal to or below 200°C.
Page 250 Clock The instrument panel receives information about the time to be displayed. The instrument panel shows the time in the following format: hh (hours) : mm (minutes); with the message AM (for values ranging between 0:00 and 11:59), or PM (for values ranging between 12:00 and 12:59 and between 1:00 and 11:59).
Page 251 Displayed errors description Displayed error Description ENGINE Throttle position sensor malfunction Throttle motor or relay malfunction (stepper motor) Pressure sensor malfunction Engine coolant temperature sensor malfunction Injection relay malfunction Ignition coil malfunction Injector malfunction Engine rpm sensor malfunction Lambda sensor or Lambda sensor heater malfunction Motorcycle starting relay malfunction Secondary air system valve malfunction AIR –...
Page 252 CAN line error (communication line across all control units) IMMO Generic error DSB control unit faulty communication / operation SD.STND Side stand sensor not working Error icons table WARNING LIGHT / ERROR MESSAGE ERROR ENGINE Engine control unit AIR – T. Air temperature sensor BATT.
Page 253 If several errors are active, the corresponding indications will be displayed one after the other, each remaining on display for 3 seconds. When an error is triggered the EOBD light turns on as well. Warning When one or more errors are displayed, always contact a Ducati Dealer or authorised Service Centre.
Page 254 Errors The instrument panel manages error warnings in order to allow the rider to identify any abnormal motorcycle behaviour in real time. Upon Key-ON - if there are active errors - or during normal operation of the vehicle - whenever an error is triggered - the instrument panel turns the EOBD light and Warning symbol ON and indicates the triggered error.
Page 255 Ambient air temperature (AIR) The instrument panel displays the ambient temperature in the set unit of measurement (°C or °F), followed by the set unit of measurement and the message T-AIR. The temperature value is displayed when ranging from -39 °C to +124 °C (or -38 °F ÷ +255 °F). For any different temperature (below -39 °C (-38 °F) or above +124 °C (+255 °F)) a string of three dashes "...
Page 256 Partial fuel reserve counter (TRIP FUEL) The fuel trip meter counts and displays the distance covered by the motorcycle on reserve (since the low fuel light turns on) with the set unit of measurement (km or mi). When the Low Fuel Light (A) turns on, the display automatically shows the TRIP FUEL function, regardless of the currently displayed function;...
Page 257 Trip meter 2 (TRIP 2) The trip meter counts and displays the partial distance covered by the motorcycle with the set unit of measurement (km or mi). When the reading exceeds the maximum value of 9999.9 km or 9999.9 mi, distance travelled is reset and the meter automatically starts counting from 0 again.
Page 258 Trip meter 1 (TRIP 1) The trip meter counts and displays the partial distance covered by the motorcycle with the set unit of measurement (km or mi). When the reading exceeds the maximum value of 9999.9 km or 9999.9 mi, distance travelled is reset and the meter automatically starts counting from 0 again.
Page 259 Upon Key-ON, the instrument panel always shows the Odometer indication for 10 seconds, then shows the user's settings page. Note If a string of flashing dashes " ----- " is displayed within odometer function, please contact a Ducati Dealer or Authorised Service Centre. Odometer Update The DUCATI diagnosis instrument allows performing a series of activations to check some instrument panel functions and resetting parameters or warning lights.
Page 260 Menu 1 functions MENU 1 functions are: - Odometer (TOT); - Trip meter 1 (TRIP 1); - Trip meter 2 (TRIP 2); - Partial fuel reserve counter (TRIP FUEL); - Ambient air temperature (T-AIR). By pressing button (2) it is possible to view the functions of MENU 1.
Page 261 When the rev limiter value (B) is reached, the warning lights start flashing. Activations through diagnosis instrument The DUCATI diagnosis instrument allows performing a series of activations to check some instrument panel functions and resetting parameters or warning lights. After each activation, the instrument panel will restore its standard functions.
Page 262 - ‘ 1000 rpm ’ - ‘ 5000 rpm ’ - ‘ 11000 rpm ’.
Page 263 - the rear speed sensor is in fault (flashing "- - -"). Activations through diagnosis instrument The DUCATI diagnosis instrument allows performing a series of activations to check some instrument panel functions and resetting parameters or warning lights. After each activation, the instrument panel will restore its standard functions.
Page 264 Main functions The functions displayed in the Standard screen are the following: Main information - Vehicle speed - Engine rpm indication (RPM) - Menu 1 displays the following functions: a) Odometer (TOT) b) Trip meter 1 (TRIP 1) c) Trip meter 2 (TRIP 2) d) Partial fuel reserve counter (TRIP FUEL) e) Ambient air temperature (AIR) f) Clock...
Page 265 Parameter setting/displaying Upon key-on, the instrument panel: turns on the display backlighting; activates the rev counter which increases from 0 to 12000 and decreases back to 0; activates the vehicle speed digits and shows a counting from 0 to 300 and then back to 0; turns on the warning lights from right to left.
Page 266 TRIP 2; TRIP FUEL (when function is active); T – AIR. The instrument panel stores Menu 1 settings in use upon KEY-OFF. On the following KEY-ON, previously stored Menu 1 pages are displayed. In case of sudden and unexpected power OFF, the instrument panel displays the default settings upon the following KEY-ON: Menu 1 default page = Odometer (TOT).
Page 267 Function buttons 1) UP CONTROL SWITCH Button used to display and set instrument panel parameters with the position 2) DOWN CONTROL SWITCH Button used to display and set instrument panel parameters with the position. 3) HIGH-BEAM FLASH BUTTON (FLASH) This button is the high-beam flasher. 4) TURN INDICATORS CANCEL BUTTON The turn indicators cancel button may also be used for the CONFIRM MENU function, for selecting the riding mode.
Page 268 Technological Dictionary Anti-lock Braking System (ABS) 9M ABS 9M system is a two-channel latest-generation system that actuates combined braking with anti lift-up function for the rear wheel so as to guarantee not only a reduced stopping distance, but also a higher stability under braking.
Page 269 Acronyms and abbreviations used in the Manual Antilock Braking System Controller Area Network DUCATI Data Acquisition Dashboard Engine Control Unit...
Page 270 Instrument panel 1) LCD. 2) REV COUNTER (rpm). It indicates engine rpm value. 3) NEUTRAL LIGHT N (GREEN). Comes on when in neutral position. 4) HIGH BEAM LIGHT (BLUE). It turns on to indicate that the high beam lights are on and when the flasher is activated. 5) ENGINE OIL PRESSURE LIGHT (RED).
Page 271 Immobilizer Key-ON status Light OFF Key-OFF status Light ON flashing Key-OFF status for over 12 hours Light OFF SW update The DSB software can be updated through the DUCATI diagnosis instrument, which uses a suitable dedicated KWP2000 communication protocol.
Page 272 Diagnostic socket The diagnostic socket is located in the vehicle rear side. In order to reach it, remove the seat (Removing the seat). Left-hand switch In the event of a fault, the internal connections of the device must be checked in all operating conditions. It is therefore necessary to disconnect the main wiring switch connector and perform the check using an analogue or digital multimeter.
Page 273 CONTROLS ON LEFT-HAND SWITCH HORN button (2) Connect the terminals of a multimeter to the Yellow and White/Blue cables to check for electric continuity, which must be available when HORN is pressed. - When the HORN button is pressed, the resistance value read by the multimeter should be close to zero and, if available, a continuity beep should be heard.
Page 274 Buttons used to display and set instrument panel parameters. Connect the multimeter to the Red and Black wires arriving from the instrument panel function selector switch and check for electrical continuity when pressing button (5). Repeat the same procedure, press button (4) and connect the multimeter to the Red/Black and Blue/Yellow wires.
Page 275 Electric diagram CONTROLS ON RIGHT-HAND SWITCH...
Page 276 Engine stop button Using a multimeter, check for continuity between the Red/White and Red/Black wires: - when button (3) is in RUN position (A), there should be electrical continuity between the two wires; - when the button is in the OFF position (B), there should be no electrical continuity between the two wires. If these conditions are not met, the engine stop switch is not working correctly and must be replaced.
Page 277 To check operation of the rear (1) STOP switch, use a multimeter: when the rear brake lever is operated, there must be electric continuity between the terminals of the corresponding switch. No electric continuity should be available when brakes are not operated. Electric diagram If these tests fail to produce positive results, the part in question must be replaced.
Page 278 To check the operation of gear sensor (1), connect the DDS 2. Electric diagram Horn Supply 12 V (battery) to the two fastons. With a multimeter connected between the two poles (threaded pins) of the solenoid starter, check for electric continuity. If there is no electric continuity, ensure that the terminals are not oxidised and apply water repellent spray.
Page 279 Electric diagram Clutch switch The clutch switch (1) is located on the clutch lever lower side.
Page 280 CLUTCH SWITCH CONTROL To check operation of the front (1) STOP switch, use a multimeter: when the front brake lever is operated, there must be electric continuity between the terminals of the corresponding switch. No electric continuity should be available when brakes are not operated. If these tests fail to produce positive results, the part in question must be replaced.
Page 282 Main relay and injection To remove and refit the main relay, refer to chapter "Starting system".
Page 283 Timing/rpm sensor The engine rpm sensor (1) is an inductive sensor that detects the teeth of a phonic wheel by means of an alternate signal proportional to the teeth passage speed. The toothed pulley usually features "Xn teeth with a gap of two teeth" as reference for the first cylinder TDC.
Page 284 Check for rpm/timing sensor (pick-up) correct operation with the diagnosis instrument DDS 2. Electric diagram...
Page 286 Throttle position potentiometer (TPS) The TPS (Throttle Position Sensor) (1) is a potentiometer installed on the throttle body. The TPS sends information to the control unit about the exact position of the throttle. To remove and refit the TPS, refer to chapters "Removing the airbox and throttle body"...
Page 287 Coil The ignition coil increases the input voltage of the current alternator and brings the voltage to a value that allows the spark creation in the spark plug. The vehicle features two coils, one for the horizontal cylinder (1) and another for the vertical cylinder (2), located under the covers (3) and (4).
Page 288 Disconnect connectors (7) and (8) of the horizontal and vertical cylinder coils.
Page 289 CONTROLS Check the correct operation with the DDS 2 diagnosis instrument connected to control unit diagnostic socket. Electric diagram...
Page 291 Ignition spark plug To check the spark plug, refer to chapter "Replacing the spark plugs".
Page 292 Temperature sensor The air temperature sensor (1), located on vehicle central part, detects the ambient temperature. The detected signal is sent to the control unit, that shares it through the CAN line with the instrument panel; this allows performing map corrections if necessary. Check the operation of sensor (1) using the DDS 2.
Page 293 quantity of intake air in the cylinders and, based on the preset stoichiometric ratio, determines the correct quantity of fuel to be delivered to the injectors. The air/fuel ratio is therefore always excellent. Check the correct operation of MAP sensor (1) using the DDS 2. Electric diagram...
Page 294 Oil pressure sensor The oil pressure sensor (pressure switch) (1) is located on the oil cooler. To test the operation of the engine oil pressure sensor (1), proceed as follows. Use the diagnosis instrument DDS 2 to check that oil pressure in the engine lubrication circuit complies with the specified values.
Page 295 Lambda sensor The lambda sensor detects the presence of unburned fuel in the exhaust gases, processes the information sent to the control unit and allows keeping the mixture ratio (air kg/fuel kg) within the best efficiency range for the catalytic converter. The vehicle is provided with two lambda sensors, one per cylinder: - lambda sensor (1) for horizontal cylinder exhaust;...
Page 296 Check lambda sensors correct operation with the DDS 2 diagnosis instrument connected to control unit diagnostic socket. Electric diagram...
Page 298 Stepper motor The stepper motor is useful when the engine does not reach a correct temperature. The stepper motor works on the throttle valve opening/closing. To remove and refit the stepper motor, refer to chapters "Removing the airbox and throttle body"...
Page 299 Electric injector To remove/refit the injector, refer to chapters "Removing the throttle body" and "Refitting the throttle body".
Page 300 Electronic control unit The engine control unit (1) is an electronic digital microprocessor-based unit. The ECU control unit (1) controls both the injectors and the coils, thus controlling fuel injection and ignition in accordance with the engine operating conditions detected by the following sensors: - absolute pressure sensor (measures the barometric pressure);...
Page 301 Refit control unit (1) by engaging it on pins (3), ensuring it is properly in seat. Connect connector (2). Refit the seat (Refitting the seat).
Page 302 Overhauling the front wheel Wheel bearings Before checking the dimensions, check for wear on wheel hub bearings. Check for wear by hand after cleaning and degreasing the bearings in their seats. Turn the internal ring and check that the internal balls move freely: any irregularity indicates deformations like those indicated in values "A"...
Page 303 Before fitting new bearings, check that the seat is clean and free from scoring and damage. Grease the bearing seat and then push the new bearing into its seat. Using a tubular drift (D) that only bears on the outer ring of the bearing (10) to drive the latter fully into its seat.
Page 304 Overhauling the front wheel rim, spokes and nipples Perform a visual check for damaged parts: if no components are damaged check the nipple tightening and axial and radial runout, as described below. In case of runout, replace the rim. In case of broken spokes replace them as described below: if three or more spokes broken at the same time, it is necessary to check all spokes since such a high number of broken spokes not due to critical events could mean that they were faulty and/or the installation/maintenance were not performed correctly.
Page 305 Check that none of spokes (10) emits a hollow sound when hit with a metallic object: this to avoid that seizure or oxidation of spoke and nipple coupling cancels the action of the applied torque; if necessary, restore the correct coupling ensuring not to use products that are aggressive for the wall and the tube.
Page 306 Checking for radial or axial runout This operation can be performed by positioning the wheel on the centring tool (B) no. 88713.2775 or leaving it fitted on the vehicle, by lifting it from the ground and using a support with dial gauges. Check that the reference elements (C) of centring tool (B) no.
Page 307 Changing the spokes Remove the tyre, the tube and the nipple protection cover from the rim and position the wheel on the centring tool (B) no. 88713.2775. Note To perform these operations easily it may be necessary to remove the brake disc and loosen the other spokes.
Page 308 Then check the lateral and axial runout as already described before. Tensioning and centring operation Remove the tyre and the tube from the rim and position the wheel on the centring tool (B) no. 88713.2775 using suitable spacers (F). Block the wheel pack checking for no end float. Check the rim axial and radial runout, as described before.
Page 309 In case of axial runout, tension the spokes on the side featuring a value increase and loosen those on the opposite side. Always work on several spokes, at least on two spokes per side, by letting them perform small rotations between one check and the following one. In case of radial runout, loosen the rim spokes featuring a value increase and tension those on the opposite side.
Page 311 Overhauling the front wheel Wheel bearings Before checking the dimensions, check for wear on wheel hub bearings. Check for wear by hand after cleaning and degreasing the bearings in their seats. Turn the internal ring and check that the internal balls move freely: any irregularity indicates deformations like those indicated in values "A"...
Page 312 Before fitting new bearings, check that the seat is clean and free from scoring and damage. Grease the bearing seat and then push the new bearing into its seat. Using a tubular drift (D) that only bears on the outer ring of the bearing (10) to drive the latter fully into its seat.
Page 313 Overhauling the front wheel rim, spokes and nipples Perform a visual check for damaged parts: if no components are damaged check the nipple tightening and axial and radial runout, as described below. In case of runout, replace the rim. In case of broken spokes replace them as described below: if three or more spokes broken at the same time, it is necessary to check all spokes since such a high number of broken spokes not due to critical events could mean that they were faulty and/or the installation/maintenance were not performed correctly.
Page 314 Check that none of spokes (10) emits a hollow sound when hit with a metallic object: this to avoid that seizure or oxidation of spoke and nipple coupling cancels the action of the applied torque; if necessary, restore the correct coupling ensuring not to use products that are aggressive for the wall and the tube.
Page 315 Checking for radial or axial runout This operation can be performed by positioning the wheel on the centring tool (B) no. 88713.2775 or leaving it fitted on the vehicle, by lifting it from the ground and using a support with dial gauges. Check that the reference elements (C) of centring tool (B) no.
Page 316 Changing the spokes Remove the tyre, the tube and the nipple protection cover from the rim and position the wheel on the centring tool (B) no. 88713.2775. Note To perform these operations easily it may be necessary to remove the brake disc and loosen the other spokes.
Page 317 Then check the lateral and axial runout as already described before. Tensioning and centring operation Remove the tyre and the tube from the rim and position the wheel on the centring tool (B) no. 88713.2775 using suitable spacers (F). Block the wheel pack checking for no end float. Check the rim axial and radial runout, as described before.
Page 318 In case of axial runout, tension the spokes on the side featuring a value increase and loosen those on the opposite side. Always work on several spokes, at least on two spokes per side, by letting them perform small rotations between one check and the following one. In case of radial runout, loosen the rim spokes featuring a value increase and tension those on the opposite side.
Page 320 Refitting the front wheel When all the necessary inspections have been completed, refit the front wheel as follows. Lubricate the wheel shaft (6). Insert front wheel between the fork legs, fitting spacer (7) between wheel hub and fork bottom end.
Page 321 Insert shaft (6).
Page 322 Fit nut (3) without tightening it to torque.
Page 323 Apply the recommended grease to the thread and underside of calliper retaining screws (2). Pre-tighten the two screws (2) to a torque of 2 Nm ± 10%. Work several times on the brake lever to allow the calliper to settle. Hold the brake lever pulled and simultaneously tighten the two screws (2) to a torque of 45 Nm ±...
Page 324 Tighten the screws (5) on the motorcycle's left side to a torque of 10 Nm ± 5%, following a 1-2-1 sequence. Tighten nut (3) to a torque of 63 Nm ± 5%.
Page 326 Loosen screws (5) that have been previously tightened. Lower the bike to the ground by removing the support. Push on the handlebar to load the suspensions and to allow the fork legs to settle on the wheel shaft. Tighten the screws (5) to a torque of 10 Nm ± 5%, following a 1-2-1 sequence.
Page 327 Overhauling the front wheel Wheel bearings Before checking the dimensions, check for wear on wheel hub bearings. Check for wear by hand after cleaning and degreasing the bearings in their seats. Turn the internal ring and check that the internal balls move freely: any irregularity indicates deformations like those indicated in values "A"...
Page 328 Before fitting new bearings, check that the seat is clean and free from scoring and damage. Grease the bearing seat and then push the new bearing into its seat. Using a tubular drift (D) that only bears on the outer ring of the bearing (10) to drive the latter fully into its seat.
Page 329 Overhauling the wheel rim After you have checked the bearings, check the rim as follows. Visually inspect the rim for cracks, scoring and deformation: change the rim if damaged. Insert the shaft in the wheel and position it on two fixed reference blocks. Using a dial gauge, measure rim runout and out-of-round with respect to the shaft axis.
Page 330 If the values measured are not within the tolerance limits, replace the wheel.
Page 331 Removing the front wheel Support the bike so that the wheel to be removed is raised from the ground. Remove front brake callipers (1) by loosening the two screws (2) securing the calliper to the fork leg without disconnecting them from the hoses. Warning Do not operate the brake lever when the callipers are removed.
Page 333 Working from the left-hand side, use a plastic mallet to drive the wheel shaft (6) out from the opposite side and remove it.
Page 335 Remove the wheel and recover spacer (7).
Page 337 Overhauling the rear wheel To overhaul the rear rim, proceed as described for the front one in "Overhauling the front rim."...
Page 338 Overhauling the rear wheel To overhaul the rear rim, proceed as described for the front one in "Overhauling the front rim."...
Page 339 Refitting the rear wheel Use specified grease to lubricate the pin ends (4) of the rear sprocket flange. Place rear sprocket flange (5) with spacer (6) inside vibration damping pads (7). Fit spacer (3) in the relevant seat. Insert the retaining pin (2) after having lubricated it with specified grease. Reposition the chain on the rear sprocket.
Page 341 Before tightening nut (1) keep the chain tensioned (Adjusting the chain tension). Tighten nut (1) to a torque of 145 Nm ± 5%. Refit the number plate holder (Refitting the number plate holder).
Page 342 Overhauling the rear wheel Overhauling the wheel rim Inspect the wheel rim as follows. Visually inspect the rim for cracks, scoring and deformation: change the rim if damaged. Using a dial gauge, duly supported, measure rim runout and out-of-round relative to the shaft axle. If the values measured are not within the tolerance limits, replace the wheel.
Page 343 Removing the rear wheel Remove the number plate holder (Removing the number plate holder). Properly support the motorcycle with the service stand and engage the first gear. Loosen and remove retaining nut (1) of the rear wheel shaft. Remove pin (2) while supporting the wheel.
Page 344 Remove the chain and the rear wheel and collect the spacer (3). Properly support the vehicle while removing the wheel.
Page 345 Refitting the front brake system Upon the system refitting, pay attention to the orientation of the hose unions on the master cylinder and on the callipers. Warning If incorrectly positioned, hoses can affect brake operation and foul moving parts. Position the component as shown in the figure.
Page 346 X=98° Lubricate the two screws (9) with the recommended product. Fasten calliper (10) by tightening the two screws (9) to a torque of 45 Nm ± 5%. Tighten screw (7) with seals (8) to a torque of 23 Nm ± 10%.
Page 347 Secure the hose with the relevant guide (6). Tighten the two screws (5).
Page 349 Refitting the brake disc Before refitting the brake disc to the wheel rim, clean all contact surfaces thoroughly and apply the specified threadlocker on the threads of screws (1). Tighten the screws (1) retaining the brake disc (2) to the wheel following the indicated sequence. Tighten the screws (1) to a torque of 30 Nm ±...
Page 350 Overhauling the front brake components Important The brake callipers manufacturer advises against servicing the brake callipers due to the safety critical nature of this component. Incorrect overhaul of this component could endanger rider safety. Operations should be limited to replacement of the pads, fasteners and the bleed valve assembly. The brake disc must be clean, without any signs of rust, oil or dirt and no deep scoring.
Page 351 Removing the brake disc The front disc consists of an inner carrier, which is mounted to the wheel, and an outer rotor. Both parts must be replaced together as a pair. Remove the front wheel (Removing the front wheel). Undo the screws (1) securing the brake disc to the wheel, remove disc (2) and the phonic wheel (3).
Page 352 Removing the front brake system Drain the front braking system (Changing the front brake system fluid). Remove the rear-view mirrors (Removing the rear-view mirrors). Undo the special screw (1), collecting the sealing washers (2) to release the front brake master cylinder unit (3) from hose (4).
Page 353 Undo special screw (7) and collect seals (8). Remove the brake hose. Loosen the screws (9) and remove the brake calliper (10).
Page 355 Maintenance operations Warning Brake fluid is corrosive and will damage paint. Avoid contact with eyes and skin. In case of accidental contact, wash thoroughly with water. For all maintenance operations (wear check and replacement of brake pads and brake fluids, etc.) see chapter, "Maintenance operations".
Page 356 Refitting the front brake master cylinder Insert the front brake master cylinder unit (3) on the right side of the handlebar so as the clamp internal edge matches with the mark (A). Position clamp (6) on the handlebar and start the screws (5). Tighten the fastening screws (5) to the specified torque of 10 Nm ±...
Page 357 Warning An incorrectly positioned hose can cause system faults and interfere with moving parts. Aim hose (4) as shown in the figure by respecting values X=35° and Y=60° and then tighten the special screw (1) to a torque of 23 Nm ± 10%.
Page 358 For the positioning of the hose (4) and retaining ties, see Section "Routing wiring/hoses". Refit the rear-view mirrors (Refitting the rear-view mirrors). Fill the front braking system (Changing the front brake system fluid).
Page 359 Removing the front brake master cylinder Warning The brake master cylinder manufacturer advises against servicing the brake master cylinder due to the safety critical nature of this component. Incorrect overhaul can endanger rider and passenger safety. Maintenance operations on these units are limited to replacement of the following parts: control lever, fluid reservoir assembly and relative fasteners and master cylinder fasteners.
Page 361 Refitting the rear brake disc Position brake disc (2) on wheel (3) and the phonic wheel (4) on the disc. Tighten the screws (1) with pre-applied threadlocker to a torque of 25 Nm ± 5%, in a cross pattern.
Page 362 Removing the rear brake disc Remove the rear wheel (Removing the rear wheel). Loosen and remove screws (1) retaining the brake disc (2) to wheel (3). Remove the phonic wheel (4).
Page 363 Refitting the rear brake calliper Warning If incorrectly positioned, hoses can affect brake operation and foul moving parts. Position the component as shown in the figure. X=90° Y=13° Lubricate the two pins with the recommended product. Insert calliper (4) in calliper holder (5).
Page 364 Fit the rear wheel (Refitting the rear wheel). Tighten special screw (1) with the two seals (3) to a torque of 23 Nm ± 10%. If previously removed, fit speed sensor (6) with spacer (8) and tighten screw (7) to a torque of 7 Nm ± 10%.
Page 366 Removing the rear brake calliper Warning The brake master cylinder manufacturer advises against servicing the brake master cylinder due to the safety critical nature of this component. Incorrect overhaul can endanger rider and passenger safety. Maintenance operations on these units are limited to replacement of the following parts: control lever, fluid reservoir assembly and relative fasteners and master cylinder fasteners.
Page 367 To replace the brake pads follow instructions in the paragraph "Checking brake pad wear and replacing rear brake pads”. To remove the speed sensor (6), undo the fastening screw (7) paying attention to the spacer defining the airgap (8).
Page 368 Refitting the rear brake control If previously removed, fit the activation rod (4) by fixing it with pin (13). Lock shaft using retainer (14). Reconnect hose (11), locating seals (12) on both sides of the hose union, and secure it with the special screw (10).
Page 369 Fit washer (15) on the footpeg holder plate (8).
Page 370 Fit spring (9) by inserting its end in the seat on the footpeg holder plate (8). Fit footpeg (6) into lever (7). Grease O-ring (16) with indicated product.
Page 371 Insert the footpeg/brake lever assembly in footpeg holder plate (8). Engage spring end (9) in the recess on the brake lever (7). Apply the specified threadlocker and tighten nut (5) to a torque of 22 Nm ± 5%.
Page 372 Apply the recommended threadlocker on the screws (2). Position the rear brake master cylinder (3) on the vehicle inserting the retaining screws (2). Insert the rod (4) inside the master cylinder (3), after applying the recommended grease. Tighten screws (2) to a torque of 10 Nm ± 10%. Connect rear stop switch (1) to main wiring.
Page 373 Fill the rear braking system (Changing the rear brake system fluid).
Page 374 Disassembling the rear brake control The brake master cylinder is supplied only as a complete unit; internal components cannot be replaced. To disassemble the master cylinder's outer parts, follow the indications given in the exploded view at the beginning of this Section. If the bush (10) inside the brake pedal (6) needs to be replaced, grease the external surface and fit the new bush using a press to insert it.
Page 375 Removing the rear brake control Warning The brake master cylinder manufacturer advises against servicing the brake master cylinder due to the safety critical nature of this component. Incorrect overhaul can endanger rider and passenger safety. Maintenance operations on these units are limited to replacement of the following parts: control lever, fluid reservoir assembly and relative fasteners and master cylinder fasteners.
Page 376 Loosen nut (5) securing the RH footpeg (6). Slide out brake control lever (7) and footpeg (6) of the footpeg holder plate (8). Collect washer (9).
Page 377 Separate bracket (6) and lever (7).
Page 378 Undo special screw (12) from master cylinder (3) and slide out hose (11), collecting seals (12). Remove rear brake master cylinder (3) from vehicle.
Page 382 Routing wiring harnesses/hoses TABLE POSITION DESCRIPTION ABS control unit TABLE A TABLE B Front brake master cylinder TABLE A TABLE B TABLE C TABLE D Front brake calliper hose TABLE A TABLE B TABLE C TABLE D TABLE E TABLE F Rear brake master cylinder TABLE TABLE...
Page 383 TABLE C TABLE D...
Page 384 TABLE E...
Page 385 TABLE F TABLE G...
Page 386 TABLE H...
Page 387 TABLE I...
Page 388 Refitting the ABS control unit In case of replacement or removal of the hoses (3), (4), (5) and (6) on the ABS control unit, it is necessary to pay special attention to the union position on the control unit. Warning If incorrectly positioned, hoses can affect brake operation and foul moving parts.
Page 390 Removing the ABS control unit Remove the seat (Removing the seat). Remove the fuel tank (Removing the fuel tank). Remove the battery. Remove the front brake system (Removing the front brake system). Remove the rear brake system (Removing the complete rear brake control).
Page 391 Disconnect the connector (11). Remove the ABS control unit (7), loosening the two screws (8).
Page 392 Release the two hoses (3) and (4) from cable ring (9).
Page 393 Release the brake hose (6) from the clip (10).
Page 395 Changing the rear phonic wheel sensor REMOVAL PROCEDURE Disconnect connector (1) of rear ABS sensor from electric wiring. Open all clips retaining rear ABS sensor cable: refer to tables under Section "Routing wiring harnesses / hoses". Remove the rear ABS sensor (2) from its seat on rear calliper holder plate (3), by loosening retaining screw (4) and collecting calibrated sealing washer (5).
Page 396 Changing the front phonic wheel sensor REMOVAL PROCEDURE Disconnect front ABS sensor (2) connector (1) from main wiring. Open all clips retaining front ABS sensor cable (1): refer to tables under Section: "Routing wiring harnesses / hoses". Undo the retaining screw (3), and remove front ABS sensor (2) with calibrated gasket (4), sliding cable out from cable grommet.
Page 397 Connect connector (1) to main wiring. Fasten all clips retaining front ABS sensor cable (1): refer to tables under section "Routing wiring harnesses / hoses".
Page 398 Bleeding of the ABS hydraulic system If brake controls feel "spongy" due to the presence of air bubbles in the system, bleed as usual, as described in Section (Changing the front brake system fluid) and (Changing the rear brake system fluid).
Page 400 Adjusting the AIR-GAP of phonic wheel sensor (For front as well as rear sensor) In each case of maintenance that foresees: - replacing or refitting the wheel; - replacing or refitting phonic wheel (1) or (2); - replacing or refitting the brake discs; - replacing or refitting the speed sensor (3) or (4);...
Page 403 Tighten the sensor securing screw fully home every time you add or remove a shim. Measure the AIR-GAP. Put the required shims. Important The sum of the feeler gauge must never exceed 3 mm. Once the shimming is completed, tighten the sensor retaining screw to a torque of 7 Nm ± 10% and check the AIR-GAP again.
Page 404 Refitting the throttle control Fit throttle control on handlebar. Fasten the handlebar as described in chapter “Refitting the handlebar”. Match the throttle control pin (6) with the handlebar seat (7). Tighten screws (1) of throttle control (2) to a torque of 6 Nm ± 10%.
Page 406 Removing the throttle control Loosen screws (1) of throttle control (2). Release handlebar (3) from U-bolt (4) loosening screws (5). Slide out throttle control (2).
Page 407 Adjusting the throttle cable For the throttle control cable adjustment refer to chapter “Adjusting the throttle cable”.
Page 408 Refitting the handlebar If previously removed, install the silent blocks (18) in the relevant seats in the steering head (16): Aim the silent block (18) as shown in the figure; Drive the silent block (18) fully home, in line with its seat. Note Drive the silent-block by working on the outer ring.
Page 409 Insert the steering head on the two screws (19) and take it fully home against lower U-bolt (17).
Page 410 Fit two washers (20) on screws (19) and start two nuts (15). Screw two nuts (15). If previously removed, fit rubber blocks (21) in the relevant seats on the lower U-bolt (17).
Page 411 Position handlebar (9) in its seat on the lower U-bolt (17) with the arrows facing the rear side of the vehicle. Reference points (A) on handlebar must be at the same distance from U-bolt (8) and flush with the U-bolt surface.
Page 412 Apply recommended product to screws (7) and tighten to 22 Nm ± 5% in the 1-2-3-4-3 sequence. Fit left-hand switch on the handlebar. Position the switch (5) so that pin (B) engages in hole (C) on the handlebar.
Page 413 Tighten the screws (4) to a torque of 1.5 Nm ± 10%.
Page 414 Fit right-hand switch (2) on the handlebar. Position the switch (2) so that pin (D) engages in hole on the handlebar (E).
Page 415 Tighten the screws (1) to a torque of 1.5 Nm ± 10%. Insert counterweight (B) in the handlebar and fix it with screw (B). Tighten the screw (B) to a torque of 3.5 Nm ± 10%.
Page 417 Removing the handlebar Remove the throttle control (Removing the throttle control). Remove the complete front brake control (Removing the front brake system). Remove the clutch control (Removing the clutch assembly). Handlebar counterweight Loosen the retaining screw (A) and remove counterweight (B). Loosen screws (1) retaining switch (2) and disconnect connector (3).
Page 418 Remove left-hand switch (5), by disconnecting connector (6) and loosening screws (4). Undo and remove the screws (7). Remove U-bolt (8) securing the handlebar. Remove the handlebar (9). Disconnect instrument panel connector (10).
Page 419 Undo and remove the screws (11) from the steering head. Tighten screw (12) and ring nut (13) and remove the steering head (14).
Page 420 Loosen two nuts (15) and separate the steering head (16) of the lower U-bolt (17).
Page 422 Refitting the clutch assembly Start the two screws (5) of the clutch control (6). Tighten the screws (5) to a torque of 10 Nm ± 10%. Insert nipple (3) in the clutch layshaft (4). Tighten screw (1) of the clutch mounting bracket (2).
Page 424 Removing the clutch assembly Undo the fixing screw (1) of the clutch bracket (2). Release nipple (3) from the clutch layshaft (4). Loosen the two screws (5) of the clutch control (6).
Page 426 Refitting the ignition switch Tighten the two retaining screws (2) of the key switch (3). Connect the connector (1). Refit the headlight. Refit the tank (Refitting the fuel tank).
Page 427 Removing the ignition switch Remove the fuel tank (Removing the fuel tank). Remove the headlight. Disconnect the connector (1). Loosen the two retaining screws (2) of the key switch.
Page 428 Refitting the gear change control Grease the two O-rings (10) and the gearchange lever pin (12), except its thread, with indicated product. Insert pin with O-ring (10) fully home in gearchange lever. Fit the second O-ring (10) on the shaft. Start the gearchange lever pin (8), the two O-rings (10) in the LH footpeg holder plate.
Page 430 Disassembling the gear change control Refer to the exploded view for indications on disassembly and replacement of components. If the bush (11) inside the pedal (8) needs to be replaced, grease the external surface and drive the bush into place using a press. The bush must be seated 2 mm below the outer face of the pedal. After performing an operation on the gear shift, adjust the gear change pedal position following the instructions detailed in Section "Adjusting the position of the gear change pedal and rear brake...
Page 431 Removing the gear change control Undo the retaining screw (1) of the gearbox rod (2). Remove the LH footpeg holder. Loosen nut (3) and collect plate (4).
Page 432 Separate the footpeg/gearchange lever assembly (6) from the footpeg holder (5). Loosen screw (7) and separate the gearbox rod (2) from the gearbox pedal (8).
Page 434 Refitting the front fork Refit fork (5) on bottom yoke (4) by respecting the indicated value. Lubricate screws (1) and (2) with specified product. Block the leg by tightening screw (1) to a torque of 24 Nm ± 5%. Tighten the screws (2) to a torque of 24 Nm ± 5%, following a 1-2-1 sequence.
Page 435 Refit the previously removed components: Front brake calliper (Refitting the front brake system). Front wheel (Refitting the front wheel). Front mudguard (Refitting the front mudguard). (NOT VALID FOR URBAN ENDURO). Headlight. Phonic wheel sensor (Replacing the front phonic wheel). Fit spacers (C) of screws (B). Fit leg cover (A) by fixing it with screws (B).
Page 437 Overhauling the front fork Remove the front wheel (Removing the front wheel) Remove the forks (Removing the front fork). The two legs are different: the LH one does not have a spring nor the pre-load tube. To remove it, follow the removal procedure of the RH leg. REMOVING THE RH LEG Vice the fork (1) and pay attention to protect the sleeve.
Page 438 Take the outer sleeve (1) down. Drain all fluid from the sleeve. To help draining, move damper rod a few times, then leave sleeve upside-down until fluid has completely drained.
Page 439 Important Draining all fluid from the fork is very important. because, due to fork construction and design, it is not possible to measure the air volume from fluid surface to fork edge when filling the fork with fluid. Set the fork in the vice and clamp the bottom end. Use the suitable protection plates to avoid any damage. Remove the fork plug (2) and detach it from damper rod assembly.
Page 440 Remove dust seal (5) from outer sleeve (1).
Page 441 Using suitable tools, remove snap ring (6). Slide out outer sleeve (1) from fork leg (7) by hitting several times to counter-hold the sliding bushing resistance.
Page 442 Remove oil seal (8), washer (9) and bushes (10) and (11). Important Protect the sleeve with rubber before vicing it to avoid any damage. REFITTING THE FRONT FORK Protect bushing seat with some adhesive tape.
Page 443 Lubricate fork leg with fork oil and install, in this sequence: Dust seal (5); Snap ring (6); Oil seal (8); Shim (9); Bushing (10). Note Pay attention to the direction of installation of oil seal, spring must face outward. Fit leg (7) into sleeve (1). Install bushing (10) in its housing.
Page 444 Then, using the same tool, install oil seal (8). Fit snap ring (6) and dust seal (5). Remove the adhesive tape previously applied. Fit the sliding bushing (11) in its housing. Fit tool (X) part no. 88713.0950. Fill in. Quantity of fluid for the RH leg: 427 cc. Quantity of fluid for the LH leg: 298 cc.
Page 445 Activate the damper rod a few times. Fit spring (4).
Page 446 Important The spring must be oriented and positioned with the side featuring the smaller diameter against the pre- load tube. Insert the preload tube (3).
Page 447 Bring plug (1) fully home on lock nut (12). Tighten plug (2) on lock nut (12). Tighten plug (1) on the fork sleeve.
Page 449 Removing the front fork Support the front side of the vehicle in a suitable way. Before removing the component, it is first necessary to remove the following parts: Front brake calliper; Front mudguard (Removing the front mudguard); (NOT VALID FOR URBAN ENDURO) Front wheel (Removing the front wheel);...
Page 450 Loosen screw (2) securing the fork sleeve to the bottom yoke (4). Slide the fork downwards.
Page 451 Refitting the steering tube components Important The steering tube bearings are identical but in no case may their components be swapped during refitting. Clean all contact surfaces and lubricate with the recommended grease. To fit the outer rings (C) of bearings to the steering tube, use tool (B) no. 88713.1062. Proceed as follows: heat the steering tube to 150 °C;...
Page 452 steering shaft after heating it for about 10 minutes to 120 °C. Insert drift no. 88713.1072. Push the inner ring (7) on dust seal (8), manually pushing for at least 10- 15 seconds. Lubricate the inner ring (7) with the recommended grease. Fit the ball race (6) on the steering shaft with the smaller diameter of the cage facing upwards, and grease the ball race.
Page 453 Position ring nut (1) and tighten it to the specified torque. Refit the following components on the vehicle: - Forks (Refitting the front fork); - Handlebar (Refitting the handlebar); - Front wheel (Refitting the front wheel).
Page 454 Removing the steering tube components Before removing the component, it is first necessary to remove the following parts: Front wheel (Removing the front wheel). Forks (Removing the forks). Handlebar (Removing the handlebar). Warning All parts fitted to the steering head and bottom yoke, including wiring and hoses, can remain on the motorcycle provided they do not hinder the following operations.
Page 455 Remove the bottom yoke (5) complete with the steering shaft from the frame. Remove the ball race (6). Use a universal puller to remove the internal ring (C), having care not to damage the seat.
Page 456 Important The removed seals and bearings shall not be reused and must be replaced with similar new components. Remove dust seal (8) and spacer (9).
Page 458 Steering angle adjustment In this vehicle it is not possible to adjust the steering.
Page 459 Adjusting the steering head bearing clearance Adjust steering bearing clearance as explained in paragraph "Adjusting the steering head bearing clearance".
Page 460 Refitting the rear suspension Ensure that bushings (5) and (6) and spacer (7) are fitted on the frame. Insert the shock absorber upper part in the frame and insert screw (3). Tighten nut (2) on screw (3) to a torque of 42 Nm ± 5%.
Page 461 Apply specified grease to the thread and underhead of the lower screw (4), insert the shock absorber lower part in the swinging arm and tighten screw (4) to a torque of 42 Nm ± 5%.
Page 462 Overhauling the rear shock absorber This shock absorber can not be overhauled.
Page 463 Removing the rear shock absorber Support the rear side of the vehicle in a suitable way. To remove the rear shock absorber (1) from the vehicle, loosen nut (2) of the upper retaining screw (3). Loosen the lower screw (4). Remove the two screws (3) and (4).
Page 465 Rear suspension system The rear suspension system uses a hydraulic monoshock absorber with spring preload that can be adjusted through ring nut (1). Shock absorber pivots onto a swinging arm at the bottom and frame at the top. The whole system gives the motorcycle excellent stability.
Page 466 Refitting the rear swinging arm Use grease to lubricate the bearings on the crankcase. Position the shims as described in chapter “Overhauling the rear swinging arm”. Install circlip (7) onto shaft (4).
Page 467 Bring the swinging arm seat close to the seat on the crankcase. Insert pin (4) fully home. Lubricate with specified product the swingarm shaft in the indicated product.
Page 468 Fit circlip (3) in wheel shaft (4). Insert screw (5) applying the specified product, and tighten it to a torque of 18 Nm ± 5%.
Page 469 Lock shaft using circlip (8). Refit chain guard (1) by tightening the two screws (2) to a torque of 5 Nm ± 10%.
Page 470 Refit the exhaust silencer (Refitting the silencer). Refit the rear calliper (Refitting the rear brake calliper). Refit the rear shock absorber (Refitting the rear shock absorber). Refit the rear wheel (Refitting the rear wheel). Refit the footpeg holder plate (Refitting the footpeg support).
Page 471 Overhauling the rear swinging arm Select the shim (6) size upon swinging arm refitting. To check the end float, proceed as follows: Fit spacer (6), lubricated with the indicated product, with 1.8 mm thickness on the vehicle left side; insert the shaft from the left side keeping the swinging arm left section against the engine, insert a 1.8-mm shim from the other section and check with a feeler gauge or calibrated shims the clearance on the engine side.
Page 472 0.10 no.1 shim (0.10 mm) 0.20 no.1 shim (0.10 mm) no.1 shim (0.10 mm) 0.50 no.1 shim (0.20 mm) no.1 shim (0.20 mm) + no.1 shim (0.1 mm) Important The shims with greater size have to be fitted on the swinging arm right-hand side. The thinner shim must always be in contact with the swinging arm.
Page 473 Inspecting the swinging arm shaft Before refitting the swinging arm shaft (4), check it carefully for distortion. Turn the shaft on a reference surface and measure distortion using a feeler gauge.
Page 474 Removing the swinging arm Remove the exhaust silencer. Remove the rear wheel (Removing the rear wheel). Remove the rear calliper (Removing the rear brake calliper). Remove the shock absorber (Removing the rear shock absorber). Remove the footpeg holder plates (Removing the front footpeg support).
Page 475 Loosen screw (5) and remove it from the swinging arm. Slide out swingarm shaft (4) from the vehicle LH side. Remove the swinging arm.
Page 477 Lubricating the chain O-ring chains have sealed, life-lubed link studs and bushes. However, these chains need to be lubricated at regular intervals to protect metal parts of the chain and the O-rings. Lubrication also serves to keep the O-rings soft and pliable to ensure the maximum sealing efficiency. Using a brush, apply a thin protective layer of high-density gearbox oil along the entire length of the chain both inside and outside.
Page 478 Washing the chain Chains with O-rings must be washed in oil, diesel fuel or paraffin. Do not use fuel, trichloroethylene or other solvents which will damage the rubber O-rings. For the same reason use only sprays specifically formulated for use with O-ring chains.
Page 479 Refitting the rear sprocket If removed, screw pins (5) to the rear sprocket flange (3) with specified threadlocker applied in the indicated point. Tighten the pins to a torque of 46 Nm ± 5%. Position rear sprocket (1) on rear sprocket flange (3) and start nuts (2).
Page 480 Insert spacer (4) fully home. Lubricate the pins with the recommended product.
Page 481 Position the rear sprocket flange-rear sprocket assembly in the rear wheel. Fit spacer (6) and tighten nuts (2) to a torque of 46 Nm ± 5%.
Page 482 Refit the rear wheel (Refitting the rear wheel).
Page 483 Removing the rear sprocket Remove the rear wheel (Removing the rear wheel). Loosen nuts (2) retaining rear sprocket (1) to rear sprocket flange (3). Remove the rear sprocket flange (3) from the rear wheel. Remove spacer (4).
Page 484 Loosen the nuts retaining the rear sprocket to the rear sprocket flange previously loosened.
Page 485 Refitting the front sprocket Check that the splines of the gearbox secondary shaft and the sprocket are in perfect condition. Insert the sprocket on the gearbox secondary shaft and push it over the groove (7). Respect the positioning shown in figure. Insert stop plate (4) on the gearbox secondary shaft (5) and rotate it inside groove (7) until the plate holes match the sprocket threaded holes: orient the stop plate with the rounded edge facing the sprocket.
Page 486 Tighten the screws (3) to a torque of 6 Nm ± 5%. Fit the chain and close it using the tool (X) no. 88713.1344, which was used to open the chain. The tool consists of a holder (A), a punch (B), body (C) and two wrenches (D) and (E) and a plate holder (F).
Page 487 Tension the belt. Fit the sprocket cover (1) and tighten the screws (2) to a torque of 6 Nm ±10%.
Page 488 Removing the front sprocket Undo the screws (2), and remove the chain cover (1). Slacken the chain (Adjusting the chain tension). Remove the chain using tool (X) part no. 88713.1344. The tool consists of a holder (A), a punch (B), a body (C) and two wrenches (D) and (E). Fit the link to be opened into the holder (A).
Page 489 Remove the chain. Engage a low gear and loosen the two screws (3) on the sprocket stop plate (4). Remove plate (4) of the gearbox secondary shaft (5).
Page 490 Remove the front sprocket (6) from the gearbox secondary shaft (5).
Page 491 Inspection of the final drive To check the final drive wear, visually check the front sprocket (1) and the rear sprocket (2). If the teeth are worn as shown in the figure (dotted line), the final drive must be replaced. Important Make sure that the rear sprocket, front sprocket and chain are all replaced together as a set.
Page 492 Refitting the rear footpegs Fit spring (17) into rear footpeg (15). Apply generic grease on the spring end and insert the ball (16). Position plate (18) so that the two chamfers are facing the rear side. Press on the plates and insert the plate/footpeg assembly in the footpeg holder. Smear the recommended grease on pin (13) and insert as shown.
Page 493 Removing the rear footpegs The following procedure applies to both rear footpegs. Remove the snap ring (12) releasing pins (13) and (15) and recovering ball (16), spring (17) and the two plates (18). Slide off the footpeg (15).
Page 494 Refitting the front footpeg support If previously removed, lubricate the two vibration damping pads (19) with specified product and position them as shown in the figure. Use a suitable press to fit the silent block (20) LH footpeg holder Position the footpeg holder on the frame. Start the screws (2) and (3) retaining footpeg holder to the frame.
Page 495 RH footpeg holder Position the footpeg holder on the frame. Start the screws (6) and (5) retaining footpeg holder to the frame. Tighten the screws (6) to a torque of 36 Nm ± 10%. Tighten the screw (5) to a torque of 55 Nm ± 5%. Refit the silencer (Refitting the silencer).
Page 496 Removing the front footpeg support LH footpeg holder Release the gearbox rod by loosening screw (1). Loosen the screws (2) and (3) retaining footpeg holder to the frame. Undo screw (4) securing footpeg holder to exhaust.
Page 497 Remove the LH footpeg holder from the frame. RH footpeg holder Remove the silencer (Removing the silencer). Loosen the screws (5) and (6) retaining footpeg holder to the frame. Remove footpeg holder (7) by releasing the rear braking system.
Page 498 Refitting the front footpegs Position spring (11) so that it engages in the footpeg holder bracket as shown in the figure. Fit front footpeg (10) in place. Apply the recommended grease to pin (9). Fit pin (9) as shown. Lock shaft using circlip (8).
Page 499 Removing the front footpegs Remove the footpeg holders (Removing the front footpeg support). Remove the circlip (8) thereby releasing the pin (9). Slide out pin (9), while supporting the footpeg (10). Slide out footpeg (10) from its seat and collect spring (11).
Page 500 Refitting the side stand Insert the side stand duly greased with specified product. Fix with pin (10). Tighten nut (9) to a torque of 20 Nm ± 10%. Position springs (7) and (8) fixing them in retainers (A) and (B). Place sensor (2) on the side stand inserting the sensor pin (C) into the stand hole (D) and aligning the stand pin (E) with the sensor opening (F).
Page 501 Start and tighten the screw (6) with pre-applied threadlocker to a torque of 5 Nm ± 10%. Place the side stand on the frame, fit screw (3) and tighten it to a torque of 36 Nm ± 10%.
Page 502 Tighten the screw (4) to a torque of 36 Nm ± 10%.
Page 503 Removing the side stand Properly support the vehicle. Disconnect connector (1) of the side stand switch (2) from the main wiring. Undo screw (3) securing stand to engine block. Undo the retaining screw (4) of the footpeg holder plate (5). Remove the side stand.
Page 504 Disassembling the side stand Loosen screw (6) and remove the switch from the stand. Release stand return springs (7) and (8) disengaging them from retainers (A) and (B).
Page 505 Loosen nut (9) of pin (10) retaining stand to plate.
Page 507 Checking the frame Compare the dimensions of the frame with the values indicated here to determine whether it needs to be re-aligned or replaced. Important Damaged frames must be changed, not repaired. Any work carried out on the frame can give rise to potential danger, infringing the requirements of EC directives concerning manufacturer's liability and general product safety.
Page 508 L=331.7 mm...
Page 509 Refitting the structural parts on frame Make sure that the two outer rings (1) in the steering tube (2) are fitted. Make sure that the vibration damping pads (3) are fitted.
Page 510 Make sure clips (4) are in place.
Page 511 Make sure clips (5) are in place.
Page 513 Removing structural components and frame Before carrying out dimensional checks on the frame, remove all the fitted superstructures, referring to the removal procedures outlined in the relevant sections of this manual. The list below indicates the components to be removed in a logical order. Remove the seat (Removing the seat).
Page 514 Refitting the tail light Position tail light (3) so that stud bolts (A) are in their seats (B) on the frame. Tighten the two screws (3) to a torque of 5 Nm ± 10%. Connect connector (2) and position it by means of two ties (1) as shown in the figure.
Page 515 Refit the tail guard (Refitting the tail guard). Refit the seat (Refitting the seat).
Page 516 Removing the tail light Remove the seat (Removing the seat). Remove the tail guard (Removing the tail guard). Release the cables from the ties (1). Disconnect tail light connector (2) from main wiring. Loosen the two retaining screws (3) and remove the tail light (4).
Page 518 Refitting the number plate holder If support (9) has been previously removed, proceed as follows: Apply the indicated threadlocker on the two screws (8). Fit support (9) on swinging arm (10) by starting it by hand without tightening to torque. Fix number plate holder plate (15) by tightening screws (14) to a torque of 5 Nm ±...
Page 519 Route the number plate light wiring in the number plate holder subframe. Tighten the three screws (13) with relevant cable plate to a torque of 2 Nm ± 10%. Important Thoroughly remove the threadlocker from the swinging arm threads and the subframe/number plate holder mating surfaces.
Page 520 Apply the recommended threadlocker to screw (12). (12) TCEIF M6X45 screw Insert screw (12) with elastic washer (G) and washer (H) from the outside of the number plate holder. Insert bushing (I) from inside the number plate holder. Position the number plate holder subframe on the swinging arm by starting the screw by hand without tightening to torque.
Page 521 Connect the connector (4). Position the chain guard. Insert screw (3). Fit bushing (2) with the relevant screw (1) and tighten screws (1) and (3) to a torque of 5 Nm ± 10%.
Page 523 Removing the number plate holder Note This procedure is valid for all customisations except the CLASSIC one. To make the number plate holder removal easier, we recommend removing also the chain guard. Remove screw (1) and the relevant bushing (2). Remove screw (3).
Page 524 Loosen screws (5) of cable rings (6). Remove clamp (7). Remove the two screws (8) that retain the number plate holder subframe support (9) to swinging arm (10).
Page 525 Remove screws (11) and (12) that retain the number plate holder subframe to the swinging arm. Remove the number plate holder subframe. In the picture the chain guard has not been removed yet. Disassembling the number plate holder Remove screws (13) to release the number plate light wiring.
Page 526 Remove the three screws (14) securing the number plate holder plate (15). Remove the number plate holder from its support.
Page 527 Remove the number plate light (17) by loosening the two screws (16).
Page 528 Refitting the electric components compartment If previously removed, refit heat guard (4) on case (5) on the rear side with heat reflective material, as shown in the figure. Important Pay attention to avoid any air bubbles between the heat reflective material and the electrical components compartment.
Page 529 Position the solenoid starter support (8) on the suitable stud bolts. Start screws (9) and tighten them to a torque of 1.5 Nm ± 10%.
Page 530 Position electrical components compartment in the frame. Start screws (1) and tighten them to a torque of 5 Nm ± 10%. Position screws (10) from the internal side of the electrical components compartment.
Page 531 Tighten nuts (2) and (3) to a torque of ± 5 Nm 10%.
Page 533 Removing the electric components compartment Remove the seat (Removing the seat). Remove the tail guard (Removing the tail guard). Remove the battery. Remove the fuse box. Remove the ABS control unit (Removing the ABS control unit). Loosen and remove the two rear screws (1). Loosen nut (2) and remove the screw from the internal side.
Page 535 Refitting the tank Make sure that two silent blocks (16) are present on both sides of the frame. Position the tank on the frame so as to connect connector (15) and hoses (14). For the connection, grip the flange and push it down (A). Insert hose (14).
Page 536 Tighten the two screws (13) to the silent blocks to a torque of 5 Nm ± 10%.
Page 537 Tighten the two screws (11) of tank (12). Refit the seat (Refitting the seat). Refitting the tank side body panels Position side body panel (1) engaging tab (6) in bracket (7) on tank (3).
Page 538 Tighten screw (2) retaining side body panel (1) to tank (3) to a torque of 5 Nm ± 10%.
Page 539 Reposition adhesive logo (A). The image below shows the ICON customisation. The procedure is the same for all customisations. Check that on the tank there are rubber elements (7).
Page 540 Fit the tank cover (6) by pulling it inwards to engage pins (4) in fixing points (5).
Page 542 Refitting the fuel tank flange If removed or damaged, fit seal (4) on pump (5) and lubricate it with the specified product. Insert the pump unit (5) in the tank seat (6) as shown in the picture.
Page 543 Position the pump locking flange (7) on pump (5), centring notch (8) on rib (9). Turn flange (7) and pump (5) assembly by centring flange hole with the holes on the tank. Start screws (2) and tighten them to a torque of 5 Nm ± 10% respecting the indicated sequence.
Page 544 Use the indicated product to lubricate the contact areas of tabs (10) with the seal.
Page 545 Removing the fuel tank flange Loosen the screws (2) and remove fuel pump flange (3).
Page 546 Refitting the tank filler plug Insert the fuel plug and start the four retaining screws (1). Tighten the screws (1) to a torque of 5 Nm ± 10%.
Page 547 Removing the tank filler plug Open the fuel plug and loosen the four retaining screws (1). Remove the tank plug.
Page 548 Removing the fuel tank Remove the seat (Removing the seat) Loosen the two screws (11) securing tank (12) to the frame. Working on both sides, remove screws (13). Lift the tank as required to reach the fuel flange located under the tank. Grip the flange and push it down (A).
Page 549 Disconnect hoses (14) and connector (15).
Page 550 Note Pay attention when disconnecting the fuel pipes. There may be fuel leakages. Removing the tank fairings Remove adhesive logo (A). The image below shows the ICON customisation. The procedure is the same for all customisations. Remove screw (2) retaining side body panel (1) to tank (3).
Page 551 Remove side body panel (1) by sliding it towards the vehicle front side. Remove the tank cover (6) by pulling it outwards to remove pins (4) from fixing points (5).
Page 554 Refitting the throttle body Position the throttle body inside the airbox. Fix it by tightening clip (16) to a torque of 1.5 Nm ± 10%. Refit the remaining part of the airbox as described in paragraph “Refitting the airbox”. Refitting the intake manifold and injectors Position the intake manifold (15) with relevant clamps (13) and (14) on the horizontal cylinder manifold (16) and the vertical cylinder manifold (17).
Page 555 Apply specified grease to the O-ring (18). Insert injector (11) of the horizontal cylinder in injector (12) of the vertical cylinder, in the suitable seat (A) on the intake manifold (15).
Page 556 Important In order to avoid damaging the O-rings of the injectors, fit the injectors into the unions fully home, keeping them in line with their relevant seat. Fit union (10) on the vertical cylinder injector as shown in the figure. Tighten the screw (9).
Page 557 Connect the Map Sensor hose (3) and fix it with clip (4).
Page 558 Reconnect the horizontal cylinder connector (1) and the vertical cylinder connector (2).
Page 560 Removing the throttle body Remove all components up to the throttle body as explained in paragraph “Removing the airbox”. After releasing the throttle body from the wiring and the throttle cable, loosen clip (16) to remove it. Removing the intake manifold and injectors After removing the airbox, proceed as follows.
Page 561 Disconnect the Map Sensor hose (3), removing clamp (4). Disconnect hose (5), removing clamp (6). Undo the screw (7) and remove the horizontal cylinder head injector union (8). Undo the screw (9) and remove the vertical cylinder head injector union (10).
Page 562 Remove the horizontal cylinder injector (11) and the vertical cylinder injector (12). Unscrew the two clips (13) and (14) and remove the intake manifold (15).
Page 564 Refitting the airbox If previously disassembled, reassemble the airbox as explained below: Fit two vibration damping pads (19) in the relevant brackets and fit spacers (20) as shown in the figure. Fit the two clips (21).
Page 566 Fit seal (22) in its seat on the airbox. Fit two spacers (23) as shown in the figure.
Page 567 Fit blow-by box (24) fully home on airbox by inserting union in the relevant seat. Start screws (25) and tighten them to a torque of 3 Nm ± 10%.
Page 568 Use the indicated product to lubricate tabs (26) of the blow-by box. Engage the MAP_SENSOR support fully home on the just-lubricated tabs. Apply the specified lubricant in the hole and on pin (28).
Page 569 Lubricate MAP-SENSOR seal (29) using the specified product. Fit MAP-SENSOR (29) on the support by introducing the pin with O-ring in the support recess and, at the same time, pin in the MAP-SENSOR hole.
Page 570 To ensure a correct assembly, pin must be pulled, letting the poppet (30) get completely out on the side opposite to insertion. Fit the pipe (31) with clip (32) in the relevant union of the blow-by box.
Page 571 Aim hose (31) and the clip as shown in the figure. Tighten the clip to a torque of 1.5 Nm ± 10%. Fit seal (33) onto air temperature sensor (34).
Page 572 Fasten sensor (34) to the airbox and tighten the two screws (35) to a torque of 1 Nm ± 10%. Fit hose (36) fully home on the Airbox by inserting edge (37) fully inside the recess.
Page 573 Insert the throttle body in the airbox and tighten clip (16) to a torque of 1.5 Nm ± 10%. Position the airbox in the frame and fix it by tightening screws (17) to a torque of 10 Nm ± 10%.
Page 574 Ensure that gasket (41) is present on the airbox.
Page 575 If removed, fit the voltage regulator (40) and tighten screws (29) to a torque of 10 Nm ± 10%. Connect the MAP-SENSOR connector (17).
Page 576 Connect STEPPER motor (13) and potentiometer (14). Route the cables through the hose guide (15). Secure the throttle body with clamp (16).
Page 577 Connect throttle cable (12). Check that air sensor (43) fits the support (42). Install the air filter as described in paragraph "Refitting the air filter".
Page 578 Connect the regulator connectors.
Page 579 Connect air connector. Connect the secondary air system connector (6), connect the secondary air hose (8) and tighten clip (7).
Page 580 Connect connector (5) of stepper motor and potentiometer. Position the side body panel so that the two pins (17) of the internal side (15) engage in seats (18).
Page 581 Secure side body panel (1) by tightening screw (2). Repeat this procedure on the vehicle opposite side. Remove the side body panels (Fitting the airbox cover). Remove the fuel tank (Refitting the fuel tank). Remove the seat (Refitting the seat). Airbox cover assembly RH airbox cover Position the RH airbox cover (5) so that the upper end is under the tank cover (B).
Page 582 LH airbox cover Position the LH airbox cover (7). Start the upper retaining screw (4) of the LH airbox cover (7) and the lateral screws (8). Tighten the screws (4) to a torque of 5 Nm ±10 % and the screws (8) to a torque of 5 Nm ± 10%.
Page 584 Removing the airbox Remove the seat (Removing the seat). Remove the fuel tank (Removing the fuel tank). Remove the side body panels (Removing the airbox cover). Remove side body panels (1) and (3) loosening screws (2) and (4). Disconnect connector (5) of stepper motor and potentiometer. Disconnect the secondary air system connector (6), loosen clip (7) and disconnect the secondary air system hose (8).
Page 585 Disconnect air connector. Disconnect the regulator connectors.
Page 586 Undo screws (11) and remove the airbox cover (10).
Page 587 Disconnect throttle cable (12).
Page 588 Loosen clip (16). Disconnect STEPPER motor (13) and potentiometer (14). Release the cables from the airbox by sliding out hose guide (15).
Page 589 Disconnect the MAP-SENSOR connector (17). Remove the ties that can obstacle the airbox removal. Remove the airbox with the throttle body by loosening the screws (18).
Page 590 Removing the airbox cover RH cover Loosen the upper retaining screw (4) of the RH airbox cover (5) and the lower screws (6). Remove the RH airbox cover (5).
Page 591 LH cover Loosen the upper screw (4) of the LH airbox cover (7), the lateral and lower screws (8). Remove the LH airbox cover (7).
Page 593 Refitting the secondary air system Remove the previously inserted cloth from the duct. Warning Do not invert the positions of the covers and components of the two valves of the secondary air system. Refer to the reference notches present on the secondary air system valve cover and on head cover. If disassembled, refit the secondary air system valves following the procedure described below.
Page 594 Position the spark arrestor plate (13) and pay attention to the insertion direction. Fit the reed valve (12) on cover (11).
Page 595 Position the secondary air system cover (11) on the vertical and horizontal cylinder head cover, as shown in the figure. Tighten the screws (17) to a torque of 6 Nm (Min. 5 - Max. 7).
Page 596 Working on the vertical head, position hose (5) as shown in the figure and fix it with clip (8). Repeat the operation on the horizontal cylinder head, orienting hose (6) as shown in the figure and fixing it with clip (9).
Page 597 If previously removed, connect hose (7) to the airbox as shown and fix it with the suitable clip. Connect the secondary air system sensor to the vertical head through hose (5); repeat the operation with the horizontal cylinder head hose (6) and hose (7) coming from the airbox. Fix the three hoses with clips (4).
Page 598 Fit the lateral cover so that pins (17) engage in their seat (18). Tighten the screw (2) to a torque of 5 Nm ± 10%.
Page 600 Removing the secondary air system Remove the seat (Removing the seat). Remove the fuel tank (Removing the fuel tank). Remove the lateral cover (1), loosening screw (2). Disconnect connector (3) of the secondary air system. Remove clips (4) and disconnect vertical cylinder pipe (5), horizontal cylinder pipe (6) and airbox pipe (7). For a better understanding, the image below refers to an engine removed from the frame.
Page 601 Work on the vertical head and remove clip (8) and disconnect pipe (5). Repeat the operation on the horizontal head, removing clamp (9) and hose (6).
Page 602 If necessary, disassemble secondary air system valves following the same procedure for both of them: Loosen the two screws (10) and slide out, in this sequence, cover (11), reed valve (12), spark arrestor plate (13), secondary air plate base (14), the relevant retaining screw (15) and O-ring (16). Note block off the secondary air system duct on head cover with a clean cloth so as to avoid any impurities from entering the duct.
Page 603 Refitting the air filter If it is necessary to refit the filter cover, refer to paragraph “Refitting the airbox”. Fit the rubber support (7) on filter (6). Fit air filter unit fully home on the relevant cover (3) by inserting the support edge (7) in the cover internal wall.
Page 604 Connect the regulator connectors.
Page 606 Removing the air filters Disconnect the regulator connectors. Undo screws (4) and remove the airbox cover (3).
Page 607 Remove the airbox cover. Loosen the three screws (5) of the support to remove the air filter. Remove the airbox (6).
Page 609 Refitting the silencer Start and tighten screw (2) in the footpeg holder plate to a torque of 10 Nm ± 10%. Working on vehicle left side, tighten screw (1) to a torque of 10 Nm ± 10%. Fix the silencer to the central part of the exhaust through spring (3).
Page 610 REASSEMBLING THE SILENCER Insert the two exhaust pipes (8) fully inside the central body (9) by aligning their edge with plate (11), as shown in the figure. Tighten clamps (19).
Page 611 Make sure clip (12) is in place. Fit the heat guard (6) with spacer (13) and washer (14). Fix it by tightening screw (7) to a torque of 4 Nm ± 10%. Make sure clips (16) are in place.
Page 612 Fix the two exhaust pipes (4) with screws (5).
Page 614 Removing the silencer Loosen the silencer retaining screw (1) to the frame on the vehicle left side. Working on the vehicle right side, loosen retaining screw (2). Remove spring (3). Slide out the silencer.
Page 615 If it is necessary to disassemble the silencer, remove heat guard (4) by loosening the retaining screws (5). Remove heat guards (4).
Page 616 Remove heat guard (6) by loosening screw (7). It is possible to separate the two exhaust pipes (8) from the central body (9) by loosening the two clamps (19).
Page 618 Refitting the exhaust system Check the presence of the two clips (13) on the exhaust manifold. Tighten plug (14) with relevant seal to a torque of 25 Nm ± 10%. Start the lambda sensor and tighten it to a torque of 45 Nm ± 10%. Fit the heat reflective material (15) in heat guard (16).
Page 619 Fix manifold (2) to the vertical head by starting screws (12) and tightening them starting from one of the two following the procedure below: The first one to 6 Nm ± 10%; The second one to 24 ± 10% Nm; Then again the first one to 24 ±...
Page 620 Fix manifold (1) to the horizontal head by starting screws (10) and tightening them starting from one of the two following the procedure below: The first one to 6 Nm ± 10%; The second one to 24 ± 10% Nm; Then again the first one to 24 ±...
Page 621 Position head guard (20) and tighten the two screws (21) to the torque of 5 Nm ± 10%. Fit cover (22) on heat guard (20), tightening two screws (23) to a torque of 5 Nm ± 10%.
Page 622 Fix the exhaust manifold (1) and the exhaust pipe (3) to the central body (4) through the two springs (6) and (7). Refit the silencer (Refitting the silencer).
Page 623 Removing the exhaust system The exhaust system consists of the following parts: Horizontal head exhaust manifold Vertical head exhaust manifold Vertical head primary exhaust pipe Central body Silencer Remove the silencer (Removing the silencer). Remove the spring (6) retaining the horizontal head exhaust manifold (1) to central body (4) and (7), primary exhaust pipe of vertical head (3) to central body (4).
Page 624 Loosen lambda sensor (9) of the horizontal cylinder head exhaust manifold (1). Remove the exhaust manifold (1) from the horizontal head by loosening the two retaining screws (10).
Page 625 Loosen the lambda sensor (11) and remove the exhaust manifold (2) by loosening the two screws (12).
Page 626 Refitting the silencer Fix the silencer to the central part of the exhaust through spring (3). Start and tighten screw (2) in the footpeg holder plate to a torque of 10 Nm ± 10%. Working on vehicle left side, tighten screw (1) to a torque of 10 Nm ± 10%. Fit the silencer external part (6) on the silencer.
Page 627 Fix heat guard (4) by tightening screws (5) to a torque of 5 Nm ± 10%.
Page 629 Removing the silencer Loosen the silencer retaining screw (1) to the frame on the vehicle left side. On the vehicle right side, loosen retaining screw (2) and remove spring (3). Slide out the silencer. If it is necessary to disassemble the silencer, remove heat guard (4) by loosening the retaining screws (5).
Page 630 Remove the silencer external side (6) by loosening screw (7).
Page 632 Refitting the Canister filter Position the canister filter (8) and fix it to the bracket through nuts (7). Tighten nuts (7) to a torque of 8 Nm ± 10%. Position hoses (4), (5) and (6) on the filter and fix it with clips (1), (2) and (3).
Page 633 Removing the canister filter Remove clips (1), (2) and (3) and release hoses (4), (5) and (6) respectively. Unscrew the two nuts (7) and remove the canister filter (8).
Page 634 Canister filter system USA models are equipped with an additional system featuring a Canister filter that prevents fuel fumes from being discharged into the atmosphere. The breather hose (4) is connected to the Canister filter (1); when the fuel has been filtered, it is returned through the hose (2) to the intake manifold (A).
Page 635 Refitting the engine Fit the engine in the frame. Lubricate screws (1) with the indicated grease and tighten to a torque of 60 Nm ± 5%. Refit the swinging arm (Refitting the rear swinging arm). Refit the rear wheel (Refitting the rear wheel).
Page 636 Refit the footpeg holder plates (Refitting the footpeg support). Refit the side stand (Refitting the side stand). Refit the clutch cable (Refitting the clutch assembly). Refit the electric connections. Refit the airbox (Refitting the airbox). Refit the oil cooler (Refitting the lubrication system).
Page 638 Removing the engine Remove the seat (Removing the seat). Remove the fairings. Remove the fuel tank (Removing the tank). Remove the electric supports. Remove the side stand (Removing the side stand). Remove the rear brake system (Removing the complete rear brake control).
Page 639 Remove the swinging arm (Removing the rear swinging arm). Position a support under the engine. Remove the two pins (1) that retain the engine to the frame. Remove the engine from the frame.
Page 641 Refitting the oil pump Position the reference bushes (5) and O-rings (4) according to the casing lubrication channels. Place oil pump (3) on the casing. Start screws (1) and (2) retaining the complete pump. Tighten screws (1) to 26 Nm (Min 23 Nm - Max 29 Nm) and screw (2) to 10 Nm (Min 9 Nm - Max 11 Nm).
Page 642 Check the backlash with the front sprocket. Move the gear slightly to measure the backlash; take four readings in opposed positions. The backlash must be 0.10 mm. To take the measurement use a dial gauge. Refit the clutch cover (Refitting the clutch cover) Fill the lubrication system (Changing the engine oil and filter...
Page 643 Reassembling the oil pump Fit the oil pump control gear (10) on oil pump checking the presence of key (11). Lock the gear using circlip (9). Insert by-pass valve (8), spring (7) and plug (6). Tighten plug (6) to a torque of 17 Nm (Min 15 Nm - Max 19 Nm) after applying the indicated threadlocker.
Page 645 Disassembling the oil pump gear Remove the plug (6) and extract the spring (7) and by-pass valve (8). Check their wear conditions. Remove circlip (9) and withdraw the pump drive gear (10).
Page 646 Removing the oil pump Empty the lubrication system (Changing the engine oil and filter cartridge) Remove the clutch cover (Removing the clutch cover) Loosen and remove screws (1) and (2) retaining the complete pump. Remove the complete oil pump (3). Extract the two O-rings (4) from the crankcase half together with two bushes (5).
Page 648 Refitting the lubrication system Important The gasket must be positioned with the sharp edge facing the cooler. Start nipples (9) on oil cooler with gasket (10) and tighten them to 23 Nm ± 10%. Tighten nuts (8) to a torque of 25 Nm ± 5% to fasten pipes (6) and (7). Position the oil cooler (5) and fix it by means of the two screws (4).
Page 650 Inspecting the oil cooler Visually inspect the cooler. Replace it at any sign of damage or leaks.
Page 651 Removing the lubrication system Remove the side fairings (Removing the airbox). Remove the exhaust system (Removing the exhaust system). Drain the engine oil (Changing the engine oil and filter cartridge). Note Pay attention that during the lubrication system removal procedure, oil can spill from the couplings. Loosen and remove the two oil couplings (1) and (2).
Page 652 To remove the oil hoses (6) and (7), loosen the two nuts (8). Loosen the two nipples (9) by recovering the relevant two gaskets (10).
Page 653 Checking the engine timing Remove the spark plugs and install tool (A) no. 88765.1297 in the spark plug bore to determine the piston TDC, fit gauges (B) no. 88765.1581 and the timing check tool with degree wheel (C) no. 88713.0123. Set the opening valve clearance to zero when the camshafts are in rest position by fitting a feeler gauge, of suitable thickness, between the opening rocker arm and the opening shim.
Page 654 Timing diagram with valve clearance of 1 mm Intake Opening 4° B.T.D.C. Closing 66° A.B.D.C. Exhaust Opening 61° B.T.D.C. Closing 7° A.B.D.C. Intake valve diameter 44 mm Exhaust valve diameter 38.5 mm Continue to rotate in the same direction until you obtain a lift of 1 mm on the intake side. Check the angular value on the degree wheel.
Page 655 Checking valve lift Fit gauge (A) part no. 88765.1581 in the hole of the removed head cover as shown in the figure. Set the opening valve clearance to zero when the camshafts are in rest position by fitting a feeler gauge, of suitable thickness, between the upper rocker arm and the opening shim.
Page 656 Exhaust Opening 61° B.T.D.C. Closing 7° A.B.D.C. Intake valve diameter 44 mm Exhaust valve diameter 38.5 mm...
Page 657 Checking and adjusting the valve clearance Remove the seat (Removing the seat). Remove the fuel tank (Removing the fuel tank). Remove the blow-by (Removing the airbox). Remove the following parts from the electrical component box: Battery; Starter relay; Fuse box; Remove the cylinder head covers (1).
Page 658 Fit tool part no. 88713.011 and ensure the two tool pins match the two slots on crankcase following the same procedure as for "Changing the belts". Turn the crankshaft so that the valve to be inspected is in rest position. With the valve in the rest position, slide a feeler gauge between opening rocker arm and shim to measure the clearance.
Page 659 With the valve in the rest position, slide a feeler gauge between closing rocker arm and shim to measure the clearance. Closing rocker arm INTAKE Assembly 0÷0.05 mm Inspection 0÷0.05 mm EXHAUST Assembly 0÷0.05 mm Inspection 0÷0.05 mm If detected values exceed the specified limits, replace opening and/or closing shims, as described in...
Page 660 paragraph "Removing the valves and rocker arms”, with one featuring an adequate thickness to obtain the specified clearance. Note Opening rocker arm shims measuring from 1.8 to 3.45 and closing rocker arm shims from 2.2 to 4.5 are available as spare parts: the size is punched on the shim. Reassemble the removed components in the removal reverse order.
Page 661 Refitting the timing outer covers Position the vertical timing belt cover (3) on the engine. Start screw (1) on the cover. Position the horizontal timing belt cover (2) on the engine. Tighten the screws (1) to a torque of 10 Nm (Min. 9 Nm - Max. 11 Nm). Refit the exhaust system (Refitting the exhaust system).
Page 662 Refitting the timing belts To refit the timing belts refer to paragraph “Replacing the timing belts”.
Page 663 Refitting the cylinder heads pulleys/idler pulleys Fit snap ring (20) on the timing layshaft on the pulley side. To guide it in its position, use protection cap no. 88700.5749 and the supplied drift. Fit spacer (19) with the recess facing the casing. Position the first keyway (18), the internal pulley (17), the guide washer (16) and the second keyway (15) on the timing layshaft.
Page 664 Then fit the external pulley (14) of the external spacer (13) and of the lock ring nut (12). Important To prevent the ring nuts from loosening and consequent serious engine damage, always use new self- locking ring nuts on all the timing pulleys. Block with the key of tool (A) no.
Page 666 Reassembling the timing pulleys For the reassembling operation, fit pulley (23) on hub (24), making the pulley reference point (A) coincide with the hub reference mark (B). Fit washer (22) fully home on the pulley, aligning the reference notch (C) with pulley reference point (A) and hub reference mark (B).
Page 667 Refitting the timing layshaft pulley If it has been removed, apply specified threadlocker to fixed tensioner (11) and tighten it to a torque of 20 Nm (Min. 18 Nm - Max. 22 Nm). Check that the tab seat on the end of the camshaft is in good condition and without burrs. Fit a key (1) in the keyway of the camshaft.
Page 668 Insert tool 88713.3152 in the pulleys to block its rotation. Apply a thin layer of specified grease on the thread and on the underhead of ring nut (8), fit washer (9) and the ring nut.
Page 669 Important Always fit new nuts on reassembly. Use the bush of tool no. 88700.5644 and a torque wrench to tighten ring nuts (8) to 71 Nm (Min. 64 Nm - Max. 78 Nm).
Page 670 Removing the timing layshaft pulleys Block with the key of tool (A) no. 88700.5644 the driving pulley rotation on the crankcase and use the tool bush to loosen the retaining ring nut (12). Remove ring nut (12), washer (13) and the outer pulley (14).
Page 671 Remove the first key (15) located on the timing layshaft. Remove the spacer (16) and the inner pulley (17). Remove the second key (18) located on the timing layshaft. Remove spacer (19) and snap ring (20).
Page 673 Disassembling the camshaft pulleys To disassemble the pulley, loosen and remove the three screws (21), slide out washer (22) and pulley (23) from flange (24).
Page 674 Removing the cylinder head pulley/fixed tensioner To remove the head pulleys fit tool part no. 88713.3152 on the pulley to block its rotation and use the bush of tool part no. 88700.5644 inserted in a torque wrench or a ratchet wrench to loosen ring nut (8) that retains the pulley.
Page 675 Important Upon reassembly, always use new ring nuts. Loosen and remove the fixed tensioners (11).
Page 676 Removing the mobile tensioner/timing belt Loosen positioning screw (4) of the horizontal cylinder belt mobile tensioner (5). Loosen retaining screw (6) of tensioner (5) and bring it to its rest position. Remove the timing belt (7). Perform the same operation sequence to remove the vertical cylinder timing belt.
Page 678 Removing the timing belt covers Remove the seat (Removing the seat). Remove the exhaust system (Removing the exhaust system). Loosen screws (1) and remove the external cover (2) of the horizontal timing belt. Loosen screws (1) retaining the external cover (3) of the vertical timing belt and remove it.
Page 679 Refitting the intake manifold Position intake manifolds (3) and fix them using nuts (2). Tighten nuts (2) to a torque of 15Nm (Min. 13Nm - Max. 17Nm). Refit the engine in the frame.
Page 680 Removing the intake manifold Remove the engine from the frame. Loosen clap (1) of the vertical head intake manifold. Repeat the same procedure on the horizontal head.
Page 681 Remove intake manifold. Loosen and remove nuts (2) securing the vertical and horizontal head intake manifolds. Remove manifolds (3).
Page 683 Refitting the camshafts If previously removed, fit seal (12) in its seat on the cylinder head right side using a suitable drift. Important If valve rocker arms are installed in the cylinder head, to insert the camshaft it is necessary to rotate the camshaft until the cams reach a position that does not interfere with the rocker arms.
Page 684 Fit the camshaft (11) from the head LH side.
Page 685 While fitting the camshaft, pay attention not to damage the seal. Rotate camshaft to evenly lubricate contact areas.
Page 686 If previously removed, reposition spring (9) of the opening rocker arm (10). Check the key (7) and its seat conditions and then refit it.
Page 687 Refitting the side caps Position cap (6) on the cylinder head LH side. Fasten cap (6) with screws (5) after applying indicated threadlocker. Tighten the screws (5) to a torque of 13.5 Nm (Min. 12.5 Nm - Max. 14.5 Nm) following a 1–2–1 sequence Fitting the timing internal cover Position cover (4) and tighten screws (3) to a torque of 10 Nm (Min.
Page 688 Refitting the valve covers Fit O-ring (A) in the suitable seat on the valve cover (2). Lubricate the O-ring with the indicated product. Position cover (2) and start screws (1) to a torque of 10 Nm (Min. 9 Nm - Max 11 Nm).
Page 689 Check of the camshafts and supports Check the cam contact surfaces for scratches, grooves, steps and waving. Worn cams are frequently the cause of poor timing, which leads to loss of engine power. Place the camshaft between two opposite centres and check the run-out using a dial gauge: - service level: 0.1 mm.
Page 691 Removing the camshafts Removing the valve covers Loosen the screws (1) securing valve covers (2) and remove the covers. Removing the timing internal cover Remove the head pulley (Removing the camshaft pulleys) Loosen screws (3) and remove cover (4).
Page 692 Removing the rocker arm shaft cap Loosen screws (5) securing cap (6) and remove it. Remove keyway (7) of camshaft (8).
Page 693 Note Upon disassembly, to avoid damaging the components, rotate the camshaft until the cams are in a position that does not interfere with the rocker arms. To facilitate the operations with installed rocker arms, remove spring (9) of the opening rocker arm (10). Slide cylinder head camshaft (11) out of its seat.
Page 695 Refitting the cylinder heads Warning To prevent oil leaks in the contact area between cylinders and crankcase, each time the head is removed, cylinder and piston must be removed as well to clean the mating surfaces of crankcase and cylinder and restore the worn gaskets and O-rings and apply again sealing compound.
Page 696 Important Failure to follow the described procedure may cause an abnormal stretch of the stud bolts and serious damages to the engine. Refit the engine in the frame.
Page 697 Refitting the valves and rocker arms To refit them follow the removal reverse procedure, paying attention to the operations that are specifically indicated. It is extremely important to thoroughly clean all components. If seal rings (17) of the valve guides have been removed, fit new ones after lubricating them with engine oil and fit them on the side with spring on tool no.
Page 699 Important When refitting the rocker arm shafts, make sure that the threaded hole is on the head outer side. Release spring (15) and remove tool (A) no. 88713.2783. Follow the same procedure on the exhaust side. Lubricate valves (19) with engine oil and fit them.
Page 700 Temporarily fit the camshaft.
Page 701 Use a suitable tool to block the closing rocker arm (10) in the position with valve open. Fit the closing shim (11) with the bigger diameter side facing down in the valve stem (12).
Page 702 Position the two split rings (13) on the valve stem. Remove the screwdriver and position the closing rocker arm (10) in its rest position. Use a suitable tool to compress the spring as much as possible while holding valve, shim and split rings in the valve closed position.
Page 703 With the valve in rest position and by counter-holding the return spring, push on the rocker arm and check that the clearance between the rocker arm sliding shoe and the closing shim is the specified one. If this is not the case, adjust the valve clearance. Once the specified clearance is reached, remove the temporarily-fitted camshaft, lubricate it with oil and reposition it on the cylinder head.
Page 704 Refit the timing side cap (Refitting the camshafts). Refit the timing pulleys (Refitting the cylinder head pulleys). Position the valve opening shim. With the valve in rest position, check that the clearance between rocker arm and the relevant adjuster is the specified one.
Page 705 Refit the caps, the camshafts and the valve covers (Refitting the camshafts).
Page 706 Overhauling the cylinder head components Overhauling the heads Remove any carbon deposits from the combustion chamber and its ducts. Check for cracking and inspect the sealing surfaces for scoring, steps or other damage. Make sure the coupling surface with the cylinder must be perfectly flat. If this is not the case, spread diamond lapping paste (6 ÷...
Page 707 Checking the valve seats Visually check the seats: they do not have to be excessively recessed or feature pitting or cracks. In case the seat is slightly damaged, grind it using suitable 45° grinders and then lap the valves and check for any leakage.
Page 708 Heat the cylinder head gradually and evenly to 200 °C and chill the valve seats in dry ice. Drive the seats keeping perfectly square in their housing using the suitable drift. Leave them cool down and grind them, the union of the ducts with the new seats and lap the valves. Coupling valve seat and valve Use Prussian blue or a mixture of minium and oil to check that the contact surface (A) between valve and seat is 1.0÷1.5 mm.
Page 709 Checking the valve – valve guide coupling Clearance upon fitting: 0.03÷0.06 mm. Maximum allowed wear limit: 0.08 mm. Replacing the valve guide To replace the guide valve (16) it is necessary to perform the following operations. Heat up the cylinder head gradually and evenly in an oven up to 200 °C. Slide out the valve guide using a suitable drift.
Page 710 Check for signs of wear, grooves or chrome flaking off. Check the conditions and the diameter of rocker arm bore and shaft: - rocker arm internal hole nominal diameter: 10.040÷10.062 mm; - shaft nominal diameter: 10÷0.005 mm. Check that the work surfaces of the adjusters and the valve return shim caps are perfectly flat and do not feature wear signs.
Page 711 Rocker arm-rocker arm shaft coupling The clearance upon fitting must be 0.03÷0.06 mm. Maximum allowed wear limit: 0.08 mm. The rocker arms must be slightly forced on the cylinder head. If the clearance is excessive, fit the shafts oversized by 0.02 mm.
Page 712 Checking the rocker arm springs Thoroughly check the springs (15) of the closing rocker arms (10). No cracks, deformations or failure must be present.
Page 713 Removing the valves and rocker arms Remove the valve covers, the camshafts and the relevant caps (Removing the camshafts). Slide out spring (4) of the opening rocker arm (5). Move rocker arm (5) to free the opening shim (6). Screw tool no. 88713.2837 on the threaded end of the opening rocker arm shaft (7). Slide out rocker arm shaft (7) and recover opening rocker arm (5) and the two shims (8) and (9).
Page 714 Use a suitable tool to block the closing rocker arm (10) in the position with valve open. Slide the valve closing shim (11) on the intake valve stem (12) to allow the removal of the two split rings (13) that retain the valve. Use small-tip pliers or a magnet screwdriver to remove the split rings (13) from the valve stem.
Page 715 Slide out valve closing shim (11) from the valve (12). Withdraw valve (12) from the lower side of the cylinder head.
Page 716 Repeat the same operations for the exhaust side. Slide out closing rocker arm shaft (14) using tool no. 88713.2837. Slide out rocker arm (10) and spring (15).
Page 717 Removing the cylinder heads Using tool no. 88713.2676, undo nuts (1) on the cylinder head stud bolts. Remove nuts (1) and collect the special washers (2) located between nut and head. Remove the complete head from the engine by sliding it out of the stud bolts. Remove the cylinder head gaskets (3).
Page 719 Refitting the cylinder/piston assembly If new parts are used, it is necessary to match cylinders and pistons of the same selection. The letter that indicates the cylinder selection is punched on its upper side, in the cylinder-head coupling surface; the letter that indicates the piston selection is punched on its crown, between the two valve recesses.
Page 720 Apply a layer of sealing compound on the gasket (8) contact surface, as required for the vertical cylinder (V) and the horizontal cylinder (O). The sides touching gasket (6) are: Side touching the vertical cylinder. Side touching the casing near the vertical cylinder. Side touching the horizontal cylinder.
Page 721 Overhauling the cylinder/piston components Overhauling the cylinder Check that the walls of the cylinder are perfectly smooth. Measure the cylinder diameter at three different heights and in two directions at 90° between them to obtain the coupling, tape and ovality value. In the event of damage or excessive wear the cylinder must be replaced as it has a silicon carbide coating (which provides the cylinder walls with excellent anti-friction and anti-wear properties) and therefore cannot be ground.
Page 722 Overhauling the piston Clean the piston crown and piston ring grooves, removing any carbon deposits. Visually inspect the piston and check its dimensions carefully: there must be no signs of scuffing, scoring, cracks, or other damage. Check the piston diameter.
Page 723 The pistons must always be replaced as a pair. Piston - cylinder coupling The pistons are marked with a letter (punched into the piston crown) that indicates the size class to which they belong. Always match cylinders with pistons from the same size class. Overhauling the gudgeon pins Gudgeon pins must be perfectly smooth without signs of scoring, steps, or blueing due to overheating.
Page 724 Overhauling the piston rings The piston rings must not show any signs of scuffing or scoring. Spare pistons are supplied complete with piston rings and gudgeon pin.
Page 725 Piston ring-grooves coupling The maximum permissible wear limit is 0.15 mm for the upper ring (1st) and 0.10 mm for the others (2nd and oil scraper ring). Note The piston rings must always be fitted with markings facing upwards. Piston-gudgeon pin coupling Measure the piston ring gap.
Page 726 Removing the cylinder/piston assembly Remove the engine from the frame (Removing the engine). Remove the heads (Removing the engine heads) Slide out of the cylinder surface the pin (1), bushings (2) and head gasket (3). Use tool (A) no. 88700.5644 to bring the piston (4) of the horizontal cylinder (5) near the TDC. Carefully lift the cylinder (4) off the crankcase, keeping it vertical.
Page 727 If necessary, rock the cylinder slightly using both hands or tap its base gently with a rubber mallet. Continue to lift the cylinder until you can access the gudgeon pin (6). Since insertion of piston in the cylinder is a difficult operation to perform at the time of reassembly, remove the cylinder together with the piston as described below.
Page 728 Working from the opposite side, drive out the gudgeon pin (6) sufficiently to release the connecting rod of the crankshaft. Lift the cylinder-piston assembly clear of the engine block stud bolts. If work is to be carried out on the piston, carefully withdraw it from the cylinder.
Page 729 To remove the vertical cylinder-piston assembly follow the procedure performed on the horizontal cylinder. Remove gaskets (8) between cylinder and casing. Important Mark the pistons to show from which cylinder they were removed: V= Vertical - O= Horizontal.
Page 730 Refitting the clutch If the hub - plates - drum assy (9) was disassembled, take special care to clutch plate positioning upon reassembling. Insert the clutch plate pack on hub: The plate pack (9) consists of: 11 driving plates (A) with 2.8 mm thickness; 6 driven plates (B) with 2 mm thickness;...
Page 731 Fit the hub-plates-drum assy (9) to the clutch housing (10). Fit lock washer (8) on primary shaft, driving it fully home inside clutch unit.
Page 732 Apply the specified grease on nut (7) mating surface and on primary shaft thread, then insert nut driving it fully home by hand inside primary shaft. Lock clutch housing with tool (T) no. 88713.2556, so as to hold it when tightening nut (7). Tighten nut (7) to a torque of 190 Nm (Min.
Page 733 Position pusher plate (5) with the clutch control pin (6). Fit springs (4) and ring (3) on pusher plate (5). Start screws (2) and tighten them to a torque of 5 Nm (Min. 4.5 Nm - Max. 5.5 Nm).
Page 734 Remove the two service pins (1). Refit the clutch cover (Refitting the clutch cover). Fill the engine with oil (Changing the engine oil and filter cartridge).
Page 735 Checking and overhauling the components Clearance between the clutch housing and friction plate Insert a friction plate (E) in the clutch housing (F) and measure the clearance (S) with a feeler gauge. Clearance "S" must not exceed 0.6 mm. If it does, replace the plates and, if necessary, the clutch housing. Overhauling the clutch plates The clutch plates must not show any signs of blackening, grooves or deformation.
Page 736 Overhauling the pressure plate Check bearing (12) conditions: replace the bearing if the play is excessive. Check the contact surface of the last friction plate; if extremely scored, polish it in the same manner as described previously for the cylinder head surface (Overhauling the cylinder head components).
Page 737 Removing the clutch Drain the engine oil (Changing the engine oil and filter cartridge). Remove the clutch cover (Removing the clutch cover). Fit the two service pins (1) inside their seats on hub. Undo the fixing screws (2) and remove the ring (3) and the springs (4) from the pusher plate (5). Slide out the pusher plate (5) with the clutch control pin (6).
Page 738 Lock clutch housing with tool (T) no. 88713.2556 and loosen retaining nut (7).
Page 739 Remove the lock washer (8). Slide the hub-plates-drum assy (9) out of clutch housing (10), marking them so as to refit them in the same position in which they were removed.
Page 740 Remove the spacer (11) from the clutch housing (10).
Page 741 Description of the clutch assembly The clutch is disengaged by a drive unit (lever (A) and spring) positioned on clutch cover. The drive unit directly operates on clutch control pin (B) that, in its turn, operates the pressure plate (C) positioned at the top of plate pack (D).
Page 742 Clean and degrease cover and casing mating surfaces. Check that the casing features the centring bushing (7). Apply an even, regular bead of DUCATI sealing compound (A) on the mating surface of the crankcase half and around all holes. Bring cover near the crankcase half and, operating on clutch cover lever, make sure that clutch control pin is duly inserted inside its seat on cover.
Page 743 M 6 x 30 Tighten the screws to a torque of 13.5 Nm (Min. 12.5 - Max. 14.5). Refit the clutch cable on the clutch cover. Turn adjuster (6) to tension clutch cable (5) on handlebar. Screw adjuster (5). Adjuster (6) standard adjustment is 5 mm from the fully home position. The maximum adjustment is of 11 mm.
Page 744 Fill the engine with oil (Changing the engine oil and filter cartridge).
Page 745 Reassembling the clutch cover Clutch layshaft Use the indicated product to lubricate the clutch layshaft (9) in the points indicated in the figure. Lubricate seal (10) using the specified product. Using a suitable tool, drive ring (10) in the clutch cover seat. Insert clutch layshaft (9) in seal ring (10) having care not to damage it.
Page 746 Bring shaft (9) fully against clutch cover (2). Rotate shaft (9) counter clockwise until part (14) touches mating surface (15).
Page 747 Fit snap ring (8) on pin (9) and perform a functional test. Oil filler cap Make sure that the oil filler cap (6) has O-ring (7). Position plug (6) on cover (2) and tighten it to a torque of 5 Nm (Min. 4.5 Nm - Max 5.5 Nm).
Page 748 Use the indicated product to lubricate the seal ring (18) and fit it into seat with a suitable tool. Fit spacer (17) and snap ring (16). Oil sight glass If previously removed, refit the sight glass: Lubricate sight glass (19) with specified product. Using a suitable drift, fit the sight glass to the value indicated in the figure.
Page 751 Disassembling the clutch cover Oil filler cap Remove the plug (6) with its O-ring (7) from cover (2). Clutch layshaft Remove snap ring (8) from clutch layshaft (9). Remove the clutch layshaft (9).
Page 752 Removing the clutch cover Drain the engine oil (Changing the engine oil and filter cartridge). Loosen the fastening screws (2), (3) and (4) on the clutch cover (1). Screw clutch cable (5) fully home on clutch lever on handlebar, working adjuster (6). Remove the clutch cable (5) from the clutch cover.
Page 753 Working on clutch cover lever, slowly remove cover to release it from clutch control pin.
Page 754 Refitting the primary drive gears and checking backlash Fully degrease the crankshaft splined end and the corresponding spline on the primary drive gear. Check that tab and inner spacer are positioned on the crankshaft. Fit the driving gear onto the crankshaft with the oil pump drive sprocket facing the crankcase. Temporarily secure the gear with the washer (6) and ring nut (7).
Page 755 If the backlash is still outside the tolerance limits, replace the complete primary drive gear (1). After having checked the backlash, lock gear (8) using reaction tool no. 88713.2423, apply the specified grease on ring nut (7), and tighten it to a torque of 190 Nm (Min. 171 Nm - Max. 209 Nm). Bend the washer (6) over ring nut (7).
Page 756 Refit the clutch unit (Refitting the clutch). Refit the clutch cover (Refitting the clutch cover). Fill the engine with oil (Changing the engine oil and filter cartridge).
Page 757 Removing the primary drive gears Drain the engine oil (Changing the engine oil and filter cartridge). Remove the clutch cover (Removing the clutch cover). Remove the clutch unit (Removing the clutch). Remove the oil pump (Removing the oil pump). Remove the clutch housing (1) complete with needle bearing (3) and primary driven gear (2). Remove inner ring (5) and spacer (4).
Page 758 Lock the primary drive gear (8) with holding tool (A) no. 88713.2423 and loosen sprocket threaded ring nut (7). Remove the nut (7) and the lockwasher (6).
Page 759 Remove the primary drive driving gear (8) using puller (B) no. 88713.2092 and place between crankshaft and puller screw an aluminium or brass pad. Pay attention to tab (9) positioned on the crankshaft and to the internal spacer.
Page 760 Refitting the gearchange mechanism Position the gearbox drum selector fork in the centre of the gear rollers. Position the complete gearchange mechanism (3) in the chain-side crankcase half. Insert the screws (1) and (2) with the spacer (4). Temporarily fit gearchange lever (or a service lever) and sprocket and shift to neutral gear. Set tool (A) part no.
Page 761 Remove the tool and check that pin (28) on the gearbox drum is aligned with notch (29) on the gearchange pawl. With the gearbox in neutral, check that the lever travel is the same when shifting up and down. The same should apply when a gear is engaged. Operate the gearchange lever and turn the front sprocket at the same time to check that all the gears engage when shifting up and down.
Page 762 Insert shaft (12) in plate (9), position washer (7) and block with the snap ring (6).
Page 763 Position lever (12) correctly according to the plate (9) position. The lever pin must be equidistant from the plate edges; to modify its position, work on the suitable eccentric pin (11) after loosening lock nut (13).
Page 764 Position spring (16) between shaft (12) and fork (5). Fit ring (14) to block the coupled elements. Check that the spring (16) is installed correctly as shown in the figure. Then tighten nut (13) to a torque of 10 Nm (Min. 9 Nm - Max. 11 Nm)
Page 765 Refit the flywheel/generator assembly and the generator cover (Refitting the flywheel/generator assembly). Refit the gear shift (Refitting the gear shift). Refit the front sprocket (Refitting the front sprocket). Fill with engine oil (Changing the engine oil and filter cartridge).
Page 766 Refitting the gear interlock plunger and ratchet On the retaining screw (21), fit the gear ratchet (22), orienting it as shown in the figure, the washer (23) with the sharp edge side facing the clutch-side crankcase half, and the spring (24), positioning it so that the hook end is facing the gear ratchet.
Page 767 Refit the clutch unit (Refitting the clutch). Reconnect the oil pressure sensor. Fill the engine with oil (Changing the engine oil and filter cartridge).
Page 768 Disassembling gear interlock plunger and ratchet Drain the engine oil (Changing the engine oil and filter cartridge). Disconnect the oil pressure sensor. Remove the clutch cover (Removing the clutch cover). Remove the clutch unit (Removing the clutch). Undo the interlock plunger screw (17) and remove the seal (18), the spring (19) and the ball (20). Undo the clutch-side crankcase half screw (21) and remove the ratchet (22), the washer and the spring.
Page 770 Removing the gearchange mechanism Drain the engine oil (Changing the engine oil and filter cartridge). Remove the gear shift (Removing the gear shift). Remove the front sprocket (Removing the front sprocket). Remove the generator cover (Removing the generator cover). Undo the fixing screws (1) and (2) of the complete gearchange mechanism (3). Remove screws (1) and (2), plate (4) and slide out the gearchange mechanism with control shaft, spring and plate.
Page 771 Reassembling the gearbox assembly To refit the gearbox components follow the procedure under chapter "Closing the crankcase" relating to the reassembly of the crankcase. As a final practical test, ensure that with the gearbox in neutral the front coupling dogs (A) of sliding gears (B) are equidistant on both sides with respect to the corresponding coupling dogs on the fixed gears (C).
Page 772 Reassembling the gearbox shafts Reassemble the gears on the gearbox shafts by reversing the disassembly procedure. Take particular care when installing the idler gears. The assembly of the 3rd and 4th speed gears and the relative fixing components on the secondary shaft is given as an example.
Page 773 Fit the three-pointed washer (21), which has a bigger outer diameter than the other one (18), in the gear. Fit another roller bearing cage (20) using the method already described. Fit the 4th speed gear (19).
Page 774 Fit another three-pointed washer (18) and another snap ring (17) into the shaft. Push it inside its seat using the previously used drift.
Page 776 Inspecting the fork selector drum Use a gauge to measure the clearance between fork pin and the groove on the selector drum. If the service limit has been exceeded, determine which part must be replaced by comparing these dimensions with those of new components. Also check the wear on the drum support pins;...
Page 777 Inspecting the gear selector forks Visually inspect the gear selector forks. Bent forks must be replaced as they may lead to difficulties in gear changing or may suddenly disengage when under load. Use a feeler gauge to check the clearance of each fork in its gear groove. If the service limit has been exceeded, check whether or not it is necessary to replace the gear or the fork by referring to the limits specified for each part.
Page 779 Overhauling the gearbox Check the condition of the front coupling dogs of the gears. They must be in perfect condition and with no sign of wear on the edges of the teeth. The idler gears must rotate freely on their shafts. When refitting, make sure the circlips are correctly positioned.
Page 780 Disassembling the gearbox shafts Important Take care not to invert the shim position upon reassembly: this would potentially lead to jamming when using the gear selector control, making it necessary to reopen the crankcase. Disassembling the gearbox secondary shaft Remove the chain-side washer (11) and the clutch shim washer (12) from the secondary shaft. Withdraw the first speed driven gear (13) with the roller cage (14) and the shim (15).
Page 781 Remove the fifth speed driven gear (16).
Page 782 Use two flat blade screwdrivers to remove the snap ring (17) from its seat, taking care not to damage the shaft surface. Remove the snap ring (17) and the splined washer (18).
Page 783 Remove the fourth speed driven gear (19) with its roller bearing cage (20) and splined washer (21).
Page 784 Remove the third speed driven gear (22) with its roller bearing cage (20) and splined washer (18).
Page 785 Remove snap ring (17) and slide out the sixth speed driven gear (23).
Page 786 Remove the snap ring (17) and withdraw the splined washer (18) and the second speed driven gear (24).
Page 787 Withdraw the roller bearing cage (20) and the shim (25). All the components have thus been removed from gearbox secondary shaft (10).
Page 788 Disassembling the gearbox primary shaft Remove washer (26) from the primary shaft.
Page 789 Remove the second speed driving gear (28). Use two screwdrivers to prise out the snap ring (17) and the splined washer (18).
Page 790 Important Take care to avoid damaging the surface of the shaft while removing the snap ring. Remove the sixth speed driving gear (29) with its roller cage (20). Then remove the splined washer (18) and the snap ring (17).
Page 792 Withdraw the third and fourth speed driving gear (30). Remove the snap ring (17) and the splined washer (18).
Page 793 Remove the fifth speed driving gear (31) with its roller cage (20).
Page 794 Slide out washer (25) from the primary shaft (9).
Page 796 Removing the gearbox assembly Withdraw the selector fork shafts (1). Move the forks (2) and (3) to disengage them from the slots in the selector drum. Remove fork selector drum (4) paying attention not to invert the shims (5) and (6) fitted on the shaft. Once removed, it is possible to replace block ring (7) and special needles (8).
Page 797 Remove them from the shaft ends and fit them in the relevant bearings on the crankcase half.
Page 798 Refitting the flywheel/generator assembly If previously disassembled, reassemble the flywheel following the indications described below. Fit starter clutch (27) on flywheel (23). Bring the starter clutch edge (B) fully home on the flywheel. Position flange (28) on the flywheel and start screws (24). Tighten screws (24).
Page 799 Fit on the crankshaft the washer (21), duly lubricated, roller bearing cage (20) and the internal ring (19) so that the latter is centred in the washer. Install the flywheel-rotor-driven gear assembly on the crankshaft ensuring not to move the internal ring (19) in washer (21).
Page 800 Block the flywheel rotation with the suitable tool (A) no. 88713.2036. Tighten nut (15) to a torque of 270 Nm (Min. 256 Nm - Max. 284 Nm)
Page 801 Overhauling the flywheel/generator assembly Inspect the inner part of generator rotor (8) for signs of damage. Check that the starter clutch is working properly and that the roller races do not show signs of wear or damage of any kind. Disassemble the unit if you find faulty operation.
Page 802 Removing the flywheel/generator assembly Fix tool (A) part no. 88713.2036 to the mounting holes (14) of side stand. Secure the tool to the flywheel with the suitable screws. Loosen nut (15) securing the generator flywheel by heating it up with an “industrial heating gun”; we recommend not to use naked-flame heating methods that could damage the starting components.
Page 803 Remove the inner ring (19), the needle roller bearing cage (20) and the washer (21).
Page 804 Checking the flywheel/generator assembly Inspect the inner part of generator rotor for signs of damage. Check that the starter clutch is working properly and that the roller races do not show signs of wear or damage of any kind. Disassemble the unit if you find faulty operation. Disassembling the flywheel/generator assembly Unscrew the eight screws (22) and remove the generator rotor (26) from the flywheel (23).
Page 806 Fit the two centring bushes (26). Spread a continuous uniform bead of DUCATI sealing compound on the cover mating surface, and around the holes of the screws and bushes. Tap the cover at different positions with a rubber mallet to facilitate its location on the shafts and centring bushes.
Page 807 6x35 Fit spacer and hose grommet (7) under screw (5) near the starter motor. Tighten the screws in the indicated sequence. Tighten to a torque of 13.5 Nm (Min. 12.5 Nm - Max. 14.5 Nm). Use tool (B) part no. 88713.3394 on the gearbox driving shaft.
Page 808 Lubricate oil seal (27) with the recommended product. Fit oil seal (27) on the tool orienting it with the spring facing the inner side. Fit the oil seal fully home with tool (C) no. 88713.3394. Remove tools (B) and (C).
Page 809 Make sure that the O-ring (28) is installed on the cover (2). Apply grease to the screws (1). Tighten the two fixing screws (1) of the cover (2) matching the crankshaft to a torque of 5 Nm (Min. 4.5 Nm - Max. 5.5 Nm).
Page 810 Refit the gear shift (Refitting the gearbox unit). Fill the engine with oil (Changing the engine oil and filter cartridge).
Page 811 Reassembling the generator cover Install stator (10) on the generator cover, with the cable outlet facing the cover and pointing the cover recess. Apply threadlocker on stator retaining screws (9) and tighten them to 10 Nm (Min. 9 Nm - Max. 11 Nm). Install plate (11) above the cable.
Page 813 Disassembling the generator cover Loosen the three screws (9) retaining the stator. Remove the stator (10) and the cable guide bracket (11). The generator cover is fitted with a bearing (12), held in place by the circlip (13), which is located on the end of the crankshaft.
Page 815 Removing the generator cover Drain the engine oil (Changing the engine oil and filter cartridge). Remove the gear shift (Removing the gear shift). Remove the front sprocket cover (Removing the front sprocket cover). Undo the two retaining screws (1) of the centre cap (2) over the end of the crankshaft. Loosen the fastening screws (3), (4), (5) and (6) on the generator cover.
Page 816 Use tool (A) no. 88713.1749 to the holes of the just-removed screws (1) and remove the cover.
Page 817 Refitting the starter motor Start retaining screws (2) with specified threadlocker. Tighten the screws (3) to a torque of 10 Nm (min. 9 Nm. - max. 11 Nm). Connect the connector (1).
Page 818 Removing the starter motor Remove the generator cover (Removing the generator cover). Remove starter motor connector (1). Loosen screw (3) and the two screws (2). Remove starter motor (4).
Page 820 Refitting the starter motor idler gear Refitting is the reverse of removal. Apply indicated threadlocker to screw (5) of pin (6) and tighten it to a torque of 10 Nm (Min. 9 Nm - Max. 11 Nm).
Page 821 Removing the starter motor idler gear Remove the snap ring (1) and washer (2). Remove the starter motor idler gear (3) and washer (4). Loosen screw (5) securing pin (6) and remove the latter.
Page 822 Refitting the timing gears Important The two timing gears must always be replaced as a pair. Check the presence of the timing layshaft key (4) and the crankshaft key (6). Refitting is the reverse of removal. Align the two references of the timing layshaft gears with the camshaft reference. On completion of the refitting operations, check that washer (2) is staked against nut (3) in such a way to prevent the nut from working loose.
Page 824 Removing the timing gears Slide out the driving gear (1) of the timing gears. Straighten out the lock washer (2) of timing gear lock nut (3). Restrain the timing gear by inserting a pin in one of the holes, and unscrew the locking nut (3). Slide out nut (3), washer (2) and driven timing gear (4).
Page 825 Refitting the external components Check the condition of O-rings (3) and replace them if necessary. Install the blow-by valve (2) in the crankcase along with O-rings (3), previously lubricated. Tighten screw (1) to a torque of 10 Nm (Min. 9 Nm - Max. 11 Nm). Fit nuts (5) on nipples (4).
Page 826 Apply the recommended threadlocker on nipple (6). Tighten oil filter cartridge support nipple (6) to a torque of 42 Nm (Min. 38 Nm - Max. 46 Nm). Screw the drain plug (12) with seal (13) to a torque of 20 Nm (Min. 18 Nm - Max. 22 Nm) after applying the specified product.
Page 827 Refit the neutral switch (14) and the relevant seal (15) by tightening to a torque of 10 Nm (Min. 9 Nm - Max. 11 Nm). Apply threadlocker to plug (10), start it with the relevant gasket (11) and tighten the plug to a torque of 25 Nm (Min.
Page 828 Refit the mesh filter (9). If previously removed, refit the stud bolts (16) on the crankcase halves, applying sealant on the thread and tightening to a torque of 30 Nm (Min. 28 Nm - Max. 32 Nm). Make sure that the O-rings (20) are fitted on the crankcase.
Page 829 Fit the pick-up sensor (17) in its seat in the crankcase half. Start the screw (18) with the washer (19) and tighten to a torque of 10 Nm (Min. 9 Nm - Max. 11 Nm). Use a feeler gauge to check the clearance between the engine sensor (17) and the timing gear (23). The value must be between 0.6 and 0.8 mm.
Page 830 Refit the cylinder/piston assembly (Refitting the cylinder/piston assembly). Refit the cylinder heads (Refitting the cylinder heads). Refit the generator cover (Refitting the generator cover). Refit the oil pump (Refitting the oil pump). Refit the clutch cover (Refitting the clutch cover). Refit the engine in the frame (Refitting the engine).
Page 831 Removing outer components Remove the engine from the frame (Removing the engine). Remove the clutch cover (Removing the clutch cover). Remove the complete clutch unit (Removing the clutch). Remove the oil pump (Removing the oil pump). Remove the generator cover (Removing the generator cover).
Page 832 Loosen and remove the oil filter cartridge. Loosen and remove oil filter supporting nipple (6). Loosen plug (7) and remove seal (8). Remove the mesh filter (9) from the clutch-side crankcase half.
Page 833 Loosen plug (10), taking care not to damage seal (11). Remove the drain plug (12) with its seal (13).
Page 834 Remove the neutral switch (14) and the relevant seal (15). Remove the cylinder head stud bolts (16) with the aid of the appropriate tool.
Page 835 To remove the engine sensor (17), undo the screw (18) and collect the washer (19). Check the condition of O-rings (20) on the crankcase half and replace them if necessary.
Page 837 Closing the crankcase If previously removed, apply specified threadlocker to dowel (28) and tighten to a torque of 15 Nm (Min. 13 Nm - Max. 17 Nm). After tightening, remove the excess of threadlocker. Install the timing layshaft (2) in the roller bearing (29) on the clutch-side crankcase half. To avoid damaging the sealing ring (23) on the timing layshaft, protect the threaded end of the shaft with the special protective cap part no.
Page 838 Note When refitting used components, before installing the gearbox assembly in the crankcase half, make sure that the inner races of the gearbox shaft end bearings are fitted into the correct bearings and have not been left on the shafts. Match gearbox shafts, fit the calculated shims and fit them to the clutch-side crankcase half.
Page 839 Insert the forks of 1st - 4th and 2nd - 3rd speed (38) inside the sliding grooves of the secondary shaft driven gears. Insert the fork of 5th - 6th speed (39) inside the primary shaft driven gear.
Page 840 Fit the fork selector drum (40) with the calculated shims on crankcase half. Install pins (41) in the previously installed forks.
Page 841 After having duly greased it to hold it in position, install the O-ring (8) on the oil channel, between the two crankcase halves. Apply an even and continuous bead of DUCATI sealing compound to the mating surface of the crankcase halves, going around all the holes as shown in the figure.
Page 842 Bring the crankcase halves (44) and (45) together, tapping with a rubber mallet in the area of the shafts if necessary. Start screws (3), (4) and (5) on the generator-side crankcase half, paying attention to the different lengths. Start and progressively drive fully home the jointing screws starting with those with a larger diameter (M8). Install two M8 screws (3) on the clutch side crankcase half.
Page 844 Refit the complete cylinder/piston assembly (Refitting the cylinder/piston assembly). Refit the complete cylinder head assembly (Refitting the cylinder heads). Refit the flywheel/generator assembly (Refitting the flywheel/generator assembly). Refit the oil pump (Refitting the oil pump). Refit the engine in the frame (Refitting the engine).
Page 845 Shimming the shafts Before assembling the crankcase halves, it is necessary to calculate the shim that determines the end float of the crankshaft and of the gearbox shafts. Calculate the shimming following the procedures described below. Shimming the crankshaft After having installed the new main bearings proceed as follows to determine the total “SA” height of the shimming: Measure value “LA”...
Page 847 Reassembling the crankcase halves The crankcase halves must be in good condition and perfectly clean. The mating surfaces must be perfectly flat and free from burrs. Refitting the clutch-side crankcase half The following parts must be present on the internal side of the crankcase half: - the secondary shaft end bearing (12);...
Page 848 Note Bearings do not have a specific mounting position (except main bearings), however it is good practice to install the bearings so that the written side is facing inwards.
Page 849 Main bearings To replace the bearings proceed as follows: - heat the crankcase half in an oven to 100 °C; - remove the bearing using a drift and hammer; - install the new bearing (while the crankcase is still hot) keeping it perfectly square in its seat using a tubular drift that only bears on the outer ring of the bearing;...
Page 850 Overhauling the crankcase halves Visually inspect the engine crankcase halves. Check that the surfaces of the crankcase halves are perfectly flat using a reference surface. Check bearing (9) and (10) conditions. If they need to be replaced, it is necessary to replace them in pairs. Warning When overhauling an engine it is good practice to replace all the crankcase bearings.
Page 851 In case of needle roller bearing replacement on the swingarm shaft, proceed as follows: Chain-side crankcase half Fit snap ring (24) in hole (25). Smear specified grease inside hole. Fit seal ring (26) and the two bearings (27) and (28) respecting the indicated value.
Page 852 Orient the seal ring (26) as shown. The arrow refers to the insertion direction.
Page 853 Clutch-side crankcase half Fit snap ring (31) in the hole. Smear specified grease inside hole. Fit seal ring (32) and the two bearings (33) and (34) respecting the indicated value.
Page 854 Orient the seal ring (32) as shown. The arrow refers to the insertion direction.
Page 855 Separating the crankcase halves Remove the engine from the frame (Removing the engine). Remove the clutch cover (Removing the clutch cover). Remove the complete clutch unit (Removing the clutch). Remove the oil pump (Removing the oil pump). Remove the generator cover (Removing the generator cover).
Page 856 Undo the two screws (3) on the clutch side crankcase half near the vertical cylinder seat. Reuse the generator cover or a service cover with puller (A) part no. 88713.1749 fitted. Secure cover to crankcase half with some of the original screws and begin separation by turning the central pin of the tool. Tap the end of the gearbox secondary shaft with a plastic mallet to separate the crankcase halves.
Page 857 Remove the gearbox shafts and the gearbox selector drum from the crankcase halves. Drive out the crankshaft (6) using a plastic mallet, paying attention not to damage washers (7). Remove the timing layshaft (2). Recover O-ring (8) in the oil passage between crankcase halves.
Page 859 Reassembling the connecting rod assembly Before starting, check that the crankshaft main bearing and big-end journals are free of burrs or evident signs of machining: if necessary, clean the surfaces with very fine emery cloth and oil. Check that the grooves are in perfect condition with no signs of forcing. Check that each connecting rod is fitted with its centring pins (8) between cap and the relevant shank.
Page 860 It is good practice to replace the bearings (A) each time the engine is overhauled. Spare bearings are supplied ready for fitting and they must not be reworked with scrapers or emery cloth. Check that the progressive number punched on the two parts sides is the same, as shown in the figure.
Page 861 Couple crankshaft and connecting rod big end bearings following the indications provided in the table. Crankshaft Connecting rod Connecting rod big end bearing Connecting rod cap big end bearing class class colour colour BLUE BLUE Insert bearing shells in the connecting rod head matching the tooth (4) with the corresponding marks on the connecting rod cap and on the connecting rod shank.
Page 862 Wash the pins and dry them with compressed air. Clean and use engine oil to lubricate the crank pin and the bearing shells and refit the con-rods on the crankshaft, in the position they were when they were removed. Fit the cap and the relevant con-rod with the mark on the same side. Fill the recommended grease into the two ends of the hole to lubricate threads and underside of the new screws (3) and the thread of the shaft.
Page 863 Put the spacer of tool no. 88713.2878 between the con-rods and take up residual axial clearance with the fork feeler gauge of tool no. 88713.2878 which has shims of the following sizes: - 0.1 mm - 0.2 mm - 0.3 Using a torque wrench as shown in the figure, tighten screws (3) to the values specified here below: - tighten to 35 Nm;...
Page 865 Overhauling the connecting rod assembly Make the following dimensional checks on the connecting rods: - clearance with gudgeon pin upon fitting. In case of excessive wear, replace the connecting rod. The small end bush must be in good condition and firmly driven into its seat.
Page 866 Overhauling the crankshaft The journals for main bearings and crank pin should not be scored or grooved. The threads, keyways, and slots must be in good condition. Check for fretting or burrs in the fillet between journal and shoulder. Fillet radius: 1.5 mm. Use a micrometer to measure oval and taper value of the crank pin.
Page 867 Use a dial gauge to measure the alignment of the main journals by positioning the crankshaft between two centres. Loosen all crankshaft plugs (5), (6) and (7), heating the crankshaft, if necessary, to remove the sealant applied at the time of assembly.
Page 868 To carry out this operation, use a heat gun able to reach 150 °C. Clean all the oilways using suitable diameter metal brushes and then blow with compressed air to remove any residues that may have accumulated and are restricting the oil flow.
Page 869 Apply specified threadlocker to the threads of plugs (5), (6) and (7), then refit them.
Page 870 Tighten plugs (5) and (7) to a torque of 13 Nm (Min. 11 Nm - Max. 15 Nm) and plug (6) to a torque of 15 Nm (Min. 13.5 Nm - Max. 16.5 Nm). Big-end bearing-crank pin clearance To check the assembly clearance between the bearing shells and crankshaft use a strip (A) of GREEN "Plastigage PG-1"...
Page 872 Disassembling the connecting rod assembly Important Take care not to mix up components of different connecting rods and maintain the original orientation. To disassemble the connecting rod assembly, loosen screws (3) and separate connecting rods (2) from crankshaft (1).
Page 873 Removing the connecting rod assembly Remove the engine from the frame (Removing the engine). Remove the clutch cover (Removing the clutch cover). Remove the complete clutch unit (Removing the clutch). Remove the oil pump (Removing the oil pump). Remove the generator cover (Removing the generator cover).

Ducati SCRAMBLER 800 Workshop Manual

Quick Links

Related Manuals for Ducati SCRAMBLER 800

Summary of Contents for Ducati SCRAMBLER 800

Table of Contents