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6. Check for shock clearance on brake lines, emergency brake cables, Brake Calipers, frame and
control arms.
1. Secure loose and unused wires with cable ties. Look up the function of the wires in your Chilton's
manual before you tape. Never get out the snips to cut a seemingly unimportant wire or bundle.
2. Problems are commonly due to a wire or relays not being hooked up or grounded properly. Sand
through the paint to bare metal whenever attaching a ground.
3. Before you start your engine. Check the ground connections. The computer ground is near the starter
solenoid (sort of looks like the female part of a stereo head phone connector). Check the following
items...
Battery ground strap
Engine to frame ground
Fuel pump/rear harness ground
Fuel pump relay ground near the seat area
EEC IV computer ground near the computer
Lighting grounds at each corner where the lights are located
Dash area grounds
Any other black wires with circular toothed clips.
4. When the ignition is turned to the "on" position, the fuel pump should be heard whirring for about
three seconds and then shuts off. This sound is simply the fuel pump pressurizing the system. If you
don't hear this sound. Check the emergency inertia cut-off switch. The red button should be pressed
in. Double-check that the computer is hooked-up and re-check all of the ground connections. The
computer ground near the starter solenoid has a black plastic one wire quick disconnect that many
people forget to ground because the other half of the connector is missing. If it is found to be missing,
cut the connector off and attach a circular ground connector.
5. Various clicking and whirring sounds are a great indication that things are working well.
6. Check the oil level and oil filter relocate hoses. Double-check the in/out relationship of the oil filter
re-locate lines. Follow the arrows on the castings.
7. Check the coolant level.
8. Crank the engine for ten seconds with the coil connector removed so that the oil pressure can build up
before starting the engine.
9. Reconnect the coil lead and start the car.
10. After running the car for two minutes at idle, turn off the engine and recheck everything for leaks and
problems.
11. If you run the motor for any longer than two minutes it will be necessary to bleed the air out of the
cooling system.
12. Several warm-up and cool down cycles are necessary before air in the coolant system is bled out
enough to allow water to be pumped by the water pump. You will ruin your motor if you start it and
drive without checking to see if the radiator is getting hot water pumped to it from the water pump.
The best way to tell if the water pump is working is to feel the radiator after the engine has warmed up
and see if it is warm. Usually it will be very cool if water is not being pumped through and you will
have to add water and allow the purge tank to replace some of the water as the motor cools down.
The purge tank on the shroud should be full all during the test sessions so that it can bleed water into
the system as the motor cools. Twenty cycles is not too many to purge air out from the cooling
system.
13. Turn the steering stop to stop to check for wheel rubbing on the control arm or aluminum wheel wells.
There should not be any contact. If there is contact, you can put an extra spacer ring in the steering
Checking the Running Gear
112
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