4. With the control unit still disconnected, make these input tests at the connector and fuse/relay box socket.
• If any test indicates a problem, find and correct the cause, then recheck the system.
• If all the input tests prove OK, go to step 5.
Cavity
Wire
A12
Fuse/relay
box socket
A14
B3
RED/WHT
·
and
B4
WHT/RED
5. Reconnect the driver's multiplex control unit to the fuse/relay box, and perform the following input tests at the
appropriate connectors on the back of the fuse/relay box.
• If any test indicates a problem, find and correct the cause, then recheck the system.
• If all the input tests prove OK, go to step 6.
Cavity
Wire
O3
RED/BLK
I6
RED
6. If all the input tests prove OK, the driver's multiplex control unit must be faulty. Substitute a known-good control
unit, then recheck the system. If the system works properly, the original control unit is faulty; replace it.
Test condition
Test: Desired result
Under all
Check for voltage to ground:
conditions
There should be battery voltage.
Under all
Check for continuity to ground:
conditions
There should be continuity.
Adjusting dial
Check for resistance between
rotated
the B3 and B4 terminals:
There should be 0 20 k
times.
Test condition
Test: Desired result
Combination
Check for voltage to ground:
light switch
There should be battery voltage.
ON (
) or
(
)
Combination
Attach to ground:
light switch
Dash lights should come on full
ON (
) or
bright.
(
)
Possible cause if result is not obtained
•
Blown No. 13 (7.5A) fuse in the
passenger's under-dash fuse/
relay box
•
An open in the wire
•
Poor ground (G401)
•
An open in the wire
•
Faulty dash lights brightness
controller
at all
•
An open in the wire
Possible cause if result is not obtained
•
Blown No. 10 (15A) fuse in the
passenger under-dash fuse/relay
box
•
Faulty combination light switch
•
Faulty taillight relay
•
An open in the wire
•
An open in the wire
22-155