5. Reconnect the 14P connector, and make these input test:
Cavity
Wire
4
BLK/YEL
13
LT GRN
3
BLK
2
GRY
5
WHT/BLK
6
LT GRN/RED
7
LT GRN/BLK
8
BLU/GRN
10
BLU/BLK
12
BLU/WHT
14
LT BLU
6. If any test indicates a problem, find and correct the cause, then recheck the system. If all the input tests prove OK, the cruise control unit
may be faulty. Substitute a known-good cruise control unit and retest. If the system works properly, replace the cruise control unit.
Test condition
Ignition switch ON (II)
Ignition switch ON (II) and main
switch ON
Ignition switch ON (II) and main
switch ON
Ignition switch ON (II), main
switch ON and brake pedal
depressed, then released
Brake pedal pressed, then
released
Set button pressed
Resume button pressed
Reconnect the cruise control
unit 14P connector, start the
engine, main switch ON and
drive the vehicle to speeds over
25 mph (40 km/h) with the cruise
control set
Ignition switch ON (II)
Ignition switch ON (II) and main
switch ON; raise the front of the
vehicle, and rotate one wheel
slowly while holding the other
wheel
Shift lever in 2, D3 or D4
Test: Desired result
Check for voltage to ground:
There should be battery voltage.
Check for voltage to ground:
There should be battery voltage.
Check for voltage to ground:
There should be continuity less
than 1 V.
Check for voltage to ground:
There should be 0 V with the pedal
pressed and battery voltage with
the pedal released.
Check for voltage to ground:
There should be battery voltage
with the pedal pressed, and 0 V
with the pedal released.
Check for voltage to ground: There
should be battery voltage.
When testing terminal No. 6, there
should be no voltage on terminal
No. 7.
Check for voltage to ground: There
should be battery voltage.
When testing terminal No. 7, there
should be no voltage on terminal
No. 6.
Check for voltage to ground: There
should be about 1 V.
Attach to ground:
Cruise indicator light in the gauge
assembly should come on.
Check for voltage between the
BLU/WHT ( ) and BLK ( )
terminals:
There should be 0 5 V or more,
or 0 5 V or more
repeatedly.
Check for voltage to ground:
There should be less than 1 V.
Possible cause if result is not
obtained
•
Blown No. 6 (15A) fuse in the
under-dash driver's fuse/relay
box
•
An open in the wire
•
Blown No. 6 (15A) fuse in the
under-dash driver's fuse/relay
box
•
Faulty main switch
•
An open in the wire
•
Poor ground (G501)
•
An open in the wire
•
Misadjusted brake pedal
position switch
•
Faulty brake pedal position
switch
•
An open in the wire
•
Open in cruise control main
switch
•
Blown No. 6 (15A) fuse in the
driver's under-dash fuse/relay
box
•
Blown No. 47 (20A) fuse in the
under-hood fuse/relay box
•
Misadjusted brake pedal
position switch
•
Faulty brake pedal position
switch
•
An open in the wire
•
Blown No. 47 (20A) fuse in the
under-hood fuse/relay box
•
Faulty horn relay
•
Faulty set/resume/cancel
switch
•
Faulty cable reel
•
An open in the wire
•
Loose connection at the PCM
•
Faulty cruise control unit
•
Short to ground
•
An open in the wire
•
Faulty PCM
•
Blown bulb
•
Blown No. 9 (10A) fuse in the
under-dash driver's fuse/relay
box
•
Faulty dimming circuit in the
gauge assembly
•
An open in the wire
•
An open in the wire
•
Short to ground
•
Faulty PCM
•
Faulty transmission range
switch
•
Poor ground (G101)
•
An open in the wire
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