Cutting Crown Moulding - Ryobi RMS-1525 Operator's Manual

• When cutting long pieces of wood or mouldings, support the far end of the workpiece on a stand or workbench level
with the mitre table.
• Align the cutting line on the workpiece with the saw blade.
• Hold the workpiece with one hand firmly against the fence. Use a vice or G-clamp to secure the workpiece whenever
possible. See Figure 28.
WARNING: To avoid serious personal injury, keep your hands outside the "keep hands clear" zone, at least 80 mm
from the blade. Never cut freehand (without holding the workpiece against the fence). The blade could jam
in the workpiece if it slips or twists.
• Before turning on the saw, try a dummy run to make sure that no problems will occur when the cut is made.
• Hold the saw handle firmly, press the lock button, then squeeze the trigger. Allow several seconds for the blade to reach
maximum speed.
• Slowly lower the blade down through the workpiece. See Figures 28 and 29.
• Release the trigger and allow the saw blade to stop rotating before raising the blade out of the workpiece.
Fig. 28
A. COMPOUND MITRE CUT
10.9 SUPPORT LONG WORKPIECES
See Figure 30.
Use extra supports for long workpieces. Supports should be placed along the length of the workpiece so it does not sag.
The supports should let the workpiece lie flat on the frame and the mitre table during cutting. Use a vice or G-clamp to hold
the workpiece.
WARNING: To avoid serious personal injury, keep your hands outside the "keep hands clear" zone, at least 80 mm
from the blade. Never cut freehand (without holding the workpiece against the fence). The blade could jam
in the workpiece if it slips or twists.
Fig. 29
45° x 45° COMPOUND MITRE CUT
Fig. 30
A. LONG WORKPIECE

10.10 CUTTING CROWN MOULDING

Your mitre saw is ideal for cutting crown moulding. In fact, it is usually the best tool for the job.
In order to fit properly, crown moulding must be compound mitred with extreme accuracy.
Both contact surfaces of a crown moulding against the ceiling and the wall of the room are at angles that add up to exactly 90°.
Crown moulding often has a top back angle (where it is flat against the ceiling) of 52° and a bottom back angle
(where it fits flat against the wall) of 38°.
10.11 LAY THE CROWN MOULDING FLAT ON THE MITRE TABLE
See Figure 31.
To use this method for accurately cutting crown moulding for 90° inside or outside corners, lay the crown moulding's widest
internal surface flat on the mitre table and push the crown moulding against the fence.
When setting the bevel and mitre angles for compound mitres, remember that the settings are interdependent; changing
one angle changes the other angle as well.
Keep in mind that the angles for crown moulding must be very precise and are difficult to set. Since it is very easy for these
angles to drift, the settings should first be tested on an offcut. Furthermore, as walls frequently do not meet at exactly 90°,
you will need to adjust the settings accordingly.
The settings in the chart below can be used for cutting crown moulding with 52° and 38° angles. When cutting crown
moulding using this method, the bevel angle should be set to 33.85°. The mitre angle should be set to 31.62° to the right
or left, depending on the type of cut required. The moulding must be placed flat on the mitre table. The following table gives
the angles and position of the crown moulding on the mitre table.
B. G-CLAMP
B. WORKPIECE SUPPORTS
41
GB