Buttonhole Quality Features; What To Look For - AMF SERIES S104-130 Parts And Service Manual

BUTTONHOLE QUALITY FEATURES

The perfect buttonhole will feature:
Revised 09/2004
e-mail: service@amfreece.cz; parts@amfreece.cz; website: www.amfreece.com
Phones: +420 582 309 146 (Service), +420 582 309 286 (Spare Parts); Fax: +420 582 360 606
Uniform stitching.
Consistent purl formation.
Symmetrical eye shape.
Proportional shape and size.
Tacked/trimmed.

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

Cut Before/Cut After (CB/CA) - The material may be cut before or
after the buttonhole is sewn, depending upon the application and the
type of material.
With a cut before buttonhole, the material is cut and the machine sews
around the edge of the material.
With a cut after buttonhole, the material is held tightly in place while
being sewn and cut after the buttonhole is complete.
Stitch density - The number of stitches in a given area. An increased
number of stitches usually gives the buttonhole a higher quality appear-
ance.
Bite width - Also called the stitch bite (or bight), is the width of the
stitch from side to side. Variations between applications are primarily
designer driven.
Gimp - Eyelet buttonholes are sewn using a double chain stitch. A third
thread (gimp) is used under the bottom thread. The gimp thread is not
sewn, but placed under the bottom thread next to the fabric.
Gimp allows the stitching and purl to stand out, giving body and
strength to the buttonhole.
Purl - The double chain stitch creates a knit stitch on top of the button-
hole. The purl is created on top of the gimp and is seen on the front of
the garment.
S-104-100
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