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AMF SERIES S104-130 Parts And Service Manual

S104-130 series eyelet buttonhole machine
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SERIES S104-130
EYELET BUTTONHOLE MACHINE
PARTS AND SERVICE MANUAL
PART NUMBER 97. 1400.0.002
This manual is valid from the machine serial No.: H 141610
0 9 / 2 0 0 4

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Summary of Contents for AMF SERIES S104-130

  • Page 1 SERIES S104-130 EYELET BUTTONHOLE MACHINE PARTS AND SERVICE MANUAL PART NUMBER 97. 1400.0.002 This manual is valid from the machine serial No.: H 141610 0 9 / 2 0 0 4...
  • Page 5 SERIES S104-130 EYELET BUTTONHOLE MACHINE PARTS AND SERVICE MANUAL PART NUMBER 97. 1400.0.002 This manual is valid from the machine serial No.: H 141610 0 9 / 2 0 0 4...
  • Page 6 S-104-100 Revised 09/2004 e-mail: service@amfreece.cz ; parts@amfreece.cz; website: www.amfreece.com Phones: +420 582 309 146 (Service), +420 582 309 286 (Spare Parts) ; Fax: +420 582 360 606...
  • Page 7 Authorized Distributor) will have the limited material warranty only. Only the defective material will be covered. Any charges associated with the use of an AMF Reece Technician or that of a Distributor to replace the defective part will be the customer’s responsibility.

  • Page 9: Warranty Registration Card

    Warranty Registration Card (Please Fax or Mail immediately after installation) Note: All Warranty Claims Void, unless Registration Card on file at AMF Reece HQ Machine model number: (S101, S100, S104, S211, Decostitch, S4000 BH, etc) Manufacturer‘s serial or production number: Installation Site Information: Customer‘s Name:...
  • Page 11 S-104-100 MACHINE MODELS AF.CA.R.RE AF.CB.R.FE AF.CB/CA.R.RE 130W AF.CB/CA.R.RE.WAISTBAND CT.CA.5/8.RE CT.CA.5/8.LE CT.CA.3/4.RE CT.CA.7/8.RE CT.CB.3/4.RE CT.CB.5/8.RE CT.CB.7/8.RE AF.CA.ST.RE.ADJ.CT AF.CB/CA.R.FE Abbreviation Definitions: = ADJUSTABLE = FRENCH EYE = ADJUSTABLE FLY = LARGE EYE = CUT AFTER = REGULAR TRAVEL (7MM TO 1-1/4) = CUT BEFORE = ROUND EYE CB/CA = CUT BEFORE / CUT AFTER...
  • Page 12 S-104-100 Revised 09/2004 e-mail: service@amfreece.cz ; parts@amfreece.cz; website: www.amfreece.com Phones: +420 582 309 146 (Service), +420 582 309 286 (Spare Parts) ; Fax: +420 582 360 606...

  • Page 13: Table Of Contents

    S-104-100 TABLE OF CONTENTS EQUIPMENT FAMILIARIZATION ..................1-1 TABLE SET-UP AND ROTATION CHECK ................1-2 BELT TENSION ADJUSTMENTS ..................1-3 COLOURED MARKING ON THE MACHINE ..............1-4 THREAD STAND INSTALLATION ..................1-5 LUBRICATION ........................1-6 MACHINE OPERATION THREADING THE MACHINE ...................1-8 STARTING THE MACHINE ..................1-10 BUTTONHOLE QUALITY FEARURES ..............1-11 PRINCIPLES OF SEWING ..................
  • Page 14 S-104-100 TABLE OF CONTENTS (Cont’d) SELECTING CUT BEFORE (CB) OR CUT AFTER (CA) ........... 1-90 PREVENTIVE MAINTENANCE ...................1-91 RECOMMENDED SPARE PARTS ..................1-92 NEEDLES ..........................1-93 KNIVES AND CUTTING STEELS ..................1-94 Revised 09/2004 e-mail: service@amfreece.cz ; parts@amfreece.cz; website: www.amfreece.com Phones: +420 582 309 146 (Service), +420 582 309 286 (Spare Parts) ; Fax: +420 582 360 606...

  • Page 15: Revised

    S-104-100 EQUIPMENT FAMILIARIZATION Description Eyelet Buttonhole Sewing Machine Sewing Speed Up to 1,900 spm Stitch Type 401 two thread chainstitch Stitch Density 3 to 16 s/cm (7 to 40 spi) Buttonhole Lenght 13 to 32 mm ( " to 1 ") Automatic Cutting Lenght Eye Shape (X;...

  • Page 16: Table Set-Up And Rotation Check

    S-104-100 TABLE SET-UP AND ROTATION CHECK 1. Unpack the table, connect electrical plug, and turn the main power on. 2. Make sure the left hand motor pulley rotates counterclockwise. Once this has been done, turn the main power off. 3. Place the rubber cushions onto the top surface of the table.

  • Page 17: Belt Tension Adjustments

    S-104-100 BELT TENSION ADJUSTMENTS BELT TENSION ASSEMBLY AND ADJUSTMENT CAUTION: According to electrical power freqvency is necessary to use the motor pulley 50Hz or 60Hz. (If the motor rotations are higher then is recommended by the manufacturer, the machine can get damaged) 1.

  • Page 18: Coloured Marking On The Machine

    S-104-100 COLOURED MARKING ON THE MACHINE C O L O U R E D M A R K I N G Screw - top links: Yellow marks — 1. Loosing and following disassembly of this link causes distinctive intervention to the mechanism adjustment, that was done when assembled and sewed off at the factory.

  • Page 19: Thread Stand Installation

    S-104-100 THREAD STAND INSTALLATION T H R E A D S T A N D I N S TA L L A T I O N Put the thread stand together according to the drawing. Position of the locking ring allows assembly of the thread stand for various thickness of the table top.

  • Page 20: Lubrication

    S-104-100 LUBRICATION 1. Oil tank , which is located on the top of the edge on the head, should be checked daily. It is supposed to be full at the beginning of each day. 2. Red marked places, pertinently the places with sticker with OIL description, must be regularly checker and lubricated, after every 30 hours of operating as of minimal.
  • Page 21 S-104-100 LUBRICATION S C H E M E O F T H E L U B R I C AT I O N D I S T R I B U T I O N Parts shown must contact on downstroke Pass yoke through loop in wicking Revised 09/2004...

  • Page 22: Threading The Machine

    S-104-100 MACHINE OPERATION Threading the Machine 1. Make sure the power is turned OFF. 2. Turn the left hand crank through a cycle until the race is facing the rear of the machine. 3. Thread gimp A as shown below. Revised 09/2004 e-mail: service@amfreece.cz;...

  • Page 23: Machine Operation

    S-104-100 MACHINE OPERATION 4. Thread top thread B as shown below. 5. Continue turning the left hand crank until the race faces the front of the machine. Thread bottom thread C as shown below. Revised 09/2004 e-mail: service@amfreece.cz; parts@amfreece.cz; website: www.amfreece.com Phones: +420 582 309 146 (Service), +420 582 309 286 (Spare Parts);...

  • Page 24: Starting The Machine

    S-104-100 MACHINE OPERATION Starting the Machine It is recommended that 20 buttonholes be sewn on a scrap piece of material before sewing on a garment. Doing this will remove all the oil and grease from the upper and lower tensions. 1.
  • Page 25 S-104-100 BUTTONHOLE QUALITY FEATURES The perfect buttonhole will feature: Uniform stitching. Consistent purl formation. Symmetrical eye shape. Proportional shape and size. Tacked/trimmed. WHAT TO LOOK FOR Cut Before/Cut After (CB/CA) - The material may be cut before or after the buttonhole is sewn, depending upon the application and the type of material.

  • Page 26: Principles Of Sewing

    S-104-100 PRINCIPLES OF SEWING A stitch is the unit of thread formed in the production of seams and stitching. Stitching is defined as a series of stitches embodied in a material for ornamental purposes, for finishing an edge, or both. The type of stitch used in the eyelet buttonhole machine is a two-thread, chain lock, purl stitch enveloping a reinforcing cord.
  • Page 27 S-104-100 PRINCIPLES OF SEWING The looper carrier continues moving to the right, carrying the lower thread, the left-hand looper, and the spreader, fully into the loop formed. Needle Upper thread Throat plate Cord Lower thread L.H. Looper L.H. R.H. Looper Spreader R.H.
  • Page 28 S-104-100 PRINCIPLES OF SEWING As the needle moves down to form a new loop, an implement called a take-up, pulls the upper thread up and into the material, bringing along the lower thread. Needle Upper thread Throat Plate Cord Lower thread R.H.
  • Page 29 S-104-100 PRINCIPLES OF SEWING The looper carrier continues moving to the left. The right-hand looper and spreader fully enter the loop formed. Needle Upper thread Throat plate R.H. Spreader & Looper Lower thread Needle guard The right-hand spreader opens, making room for the needle to pass through a loop formed by the upper thread.
  • Page 30 S-104-100 PRINCIPLES OF SEWING The looper carrier moves to the right as the needle “strips” the loop previously formed. The left-hand looper enters the new loop being formed. Needle Upper thread Throat plate Cord R.H. Looper & spreader L.H. Spreader The lower thread forms a purl and along with the previously formed thread loop, is pulled up against the material.
  • Page 31 S-104-100 PRINCIPLES OF SEWING The AMF Reece two-thread, chain lock, purl stitch with reinforcing cord. Upper thread Reinforcing cord (gimp) Lower thread Revised 09/2004 e-mail: service@amfreece.cz; parts@amfreece.cz; website: www.amfreece.com 1-17 Phones: +420 582 309 146 (Service), +420 582 309 286 (Spare Parts); Fax: +420 582 360 606...

  • Page 32: Stop Motion Adjustments

    S-104-100 STOP MOTION ADJUSTMENTS The majority of adjustments are started when the machine is in the home position. The home position is reached by turning the left hand crank slowly through a cycle. Halfway through the cycle, the bedplate will start moving towards the rear of the machine. Once the bedplate has stopped moving to the rear, it is in home position.
  • Page 33 S-104-100 STOP MOTION ADJUSTMENTS 3. Loosen nut M, and move rocking lever N slightly to the rear. Push link C back; lever D will latch over roller stud E. A clearance of between 0.03 and 0.07 mm (.001 and 0.003“) must be maintained between roller F and length gauge G.
  • Page 34 S-104-100 STOP MOTION ADJUSTMENTS 5. The clearance between brake shoe L and right hand stop wheel B should be 0.25 mm (.010“). To adjust, place the appropriate feeler gauge between brake shoe L and right hand stop wheel B. Pull rocking lever N all the way forward, holding it forward, turn right hand stop wheel B counterclockwise until it locks.
  • Page 35 S-104-100 STOP MOTION ADJUSTMENTS 7. While applying slight pressure counterclockwise on the hand grip of right hand stop wheel B, turn left hand crank A until stop dog O, located on the right hand stop wheel, is released. Once the dog is released, stop turning the hand crank immediately.
  • Page 36 S-104-100 STOP MOTION ADJUSTMENTS 9. Turn right hand stop wheel B until stop dog O is at 12 o‘clock. 10. Turn the left hand crank until roller F reaches the high point of length gauge G, which is the farthest movement to the rear the rocking lever can make.
  • Page 37 S-104-100 STOP MOTION ADJUSTMENTS 14. Release trip lever T by pulling it forward. Turn right hand stop wheel B one full rotation until brake shoe L rests tightly against the stop wheel. The clearance between drive hub P and dog Q, located on left hand cutting wheel R, should be between 0.25 and 0.38 mm (.010 and .015“).
  • Page 38 S-104-100 STOP MOTION ADJUSTMENTS 15. Turn right hand stop wheel B until the stop dog O is locked. Turn the left hand crank until the ma- chine is in home position. A clearance of approximately 0.50 mm (.20”) should be maintained between drive hub P and dog Q, located on left hand cutting wheel R.
  • Page 39 S-104-100 STOP MOTION ADJUSTMENTS Ensure you use the correct stop motion procedures for your style machine. Flyover Lever Stop Motion When setting the stop motion the CB/CA style machines must be set in CA mode (see page 1-92). 1. Make sure the main power is OFF. 2.
  • Page 40 S-104-100 STOP MOTION ADJUSTMENTS 5. A clearance between brake pad L and right hand stop wheel B should be 0.25 mm (.010”). To adjust, place the appropriate feeler gauge between the brake shoe and the right hand stop wheel. Pull rocking lever all the way forward;...
  • Page 41 S-104-100 STOP MOTION ADJUSTMENTS Adjust latch P so right hand stitch pulley Q is allowed to turn freely. This is done by loosening screw R and rotating eccentric bushing S so that the wide side is towards the rear of the machine. Latch P is against the ledge of right hand stop wheel B.
  • Page 42 S-104-100 STOP MOTION ADJUSTMENTS 8. Apply slight pressure counterclockwise on hand grip B. Turn the left hand crank until stop dog V is released. Once the dog has been released, stop turning the hand crank immediately. A clearance of up to 0.13 mm (.005”) should exist between drive hub W and dog X, located on left hand cutting wheel Y.
  • Page 43 S-104-100 STOP MOTION ADJUSTMENTS 9. Turn the left hand crank until roller F reaches the high point of length gauge G. Turn right hand stop wheel B until the dog is at 6 o’clock. At this point, there should be a clearance of 1.59 mm (.062”) be- tween dog AA and the end of flyover lever BB.
  • Page 44 S-104-100 STOP MOTION ADJUSTMENTS 10. A clearance of 0.40 mm (.016”) should exist between dog AA and flyover lever BB after rocking lever M has moved forward. To adjust, loosen nut DD and move link EE down until it i sitting squarely on the top of dog II.
  • Page 45 S-104-100 STOP MOTION ADJUSTMENTS 11. Turn right hand stop wheel B until the dog is at 12 o’clock. Pull the top portion of trip lever EE for- ward until it releases. At this point, dog AA should just touch the underside of flyover lever BB without lifting it.
  • Page 46 S-104-100 STOP MOTION ADJUSTMENTS 12. Turn the left hand crank until the machine has moved through the eye position. Left hand dogs X and drive hub W should have an approximate clearance of up to 0.40 (.016”). If the proper clearance does not exist between left hand dogs and drive hub, repeat steps 6 through 8.
  • Page 47 S-104-100 STOP MOTION ADJUSTMENTS 13. Turn the right hand stop wheel until it locks in place. Turn the left hand crank until the machine is in home position. A clearance of approximately 0.50 mm (.020”) is required between drive hub W and left hand dog X.
  • Page 48 S-104-100 STOP MOTION ADJUSTMENTS Ensure you use the correct stop motion procedures for your style machine. Round Eye Stop Motion Home position is after the upper thread trimming action has occurred. The bedplate will travel a short distance to the rear of the machine and stop. The race will be facing the left side of the machine. 1.
  • Page 49 S-104-100 STOP MOTION ADJUSTMENTS 3. Turn the left hand crank until the machine reaches the home position. Turn the right hand stop wheel until it locks. Continue turning the left hand crank until stop dog B is released from the right hand stop wheel.
  • Page 50 S-104-100 STOP MOTION ADJUSTMENTS 5. The adjustment described in step 4 may need to be repeated several times in order to establish the proper home position. To check, turn main power on and cycle the machine to ensure that it is stopping in the home position.
  • Page 51 S-104-100 SLIP CLUTCH ADJUSTMENTS The slip clutches are factory set to absorb starting load by slipping 45 to 100 degrees upon pick-up of the first stitch. The clutch may slip within this range without any problem, but needs to be periodically checked with gauge 03.0403.0.000.

  • Page 52: Race Adjustments

    S-104-100 RACE ADJUSTMENTS Race to Side of Bedplate 1. Remove the throat plate, loopers and spreaders. 2. Set the machine in the eye mode, using eye / no-eye shifter A located in the rear of the bedplate. 3. Turn the left hand crank, stopping once to ensure that holes B (located on the head and bedplate) are in alignment.
  • Page 53 S-104-100 RACE ADJUSTMENTS 5. Race should have traveled 90 degrees to the bedplate, as shown below. If the race did not travel 90 degrees, perform steps 6 and 7. 6. Place a straight edge across the front of the race and check distance on both sides of the race to the side of the bedplate.
  • Page 54 S-104-100 RACE ADJUSTMENTS Race to Needle Bar Gears With race at 90 degrees, upper vibrator block should be visually square to race. To adjust, loosen nut F, and rotate upper sector gear G to square it off. Once this has been done, re-tighten nuts F. Race 180 degree travel 1.
  • Page 55 S-104-100 RACE ADJUSTMENTS 3. Continue turning the left hand crank through the eye of the buttonhole, stopping at the second row of stitches. 4. Place a straight edge across the front of the race. Look at the race in relation to the straight edge - note the distance, if any, between the two.
  • Page 56 S-104-100 RACE ADJUSTMENTS 6. Lift the machine. Loosen nut H, and move up or down (up moves the race clockwise; down moves the race counterclockwise) equaling 1/2 distance between the straight edge and the race. Once the adjustment has been made, re-tighten nut H. 7.

  • Page 57: Adjustable Flybar Pins Setting - No Eye

    S-104-100 ADJUSTABLE FLYBAR PINS SETTINGS - NO EYE NOTE: The flybar brackets have been adjusted and pinned in the factory. If the pins are working freely, no adjustment is necessary. If they are not working freely, perform the following steps: 1.
  • Page 58 S-104-100 ADJUSTABLE FLYBAR PINS SETTINGS - NO EYE 6. Move spacer wedges J close together or further apart (closer moves flybar bracket to the right; further moves the bracket to the left) so that flybar pins G will line up to fit into cam plate slots I. 7.

  • Page 59: Looper And Needle Alignment

    S-104-100 LOOPER AND NEEDLE ALIGNMENT 1. Make sure the main power is OFF. Turn the left hand crank until the machine is in home position. Insert a needle. Re-install the left hand looper. 2. Turn the right hand stitch wheel until the needle aligns with the tip of the left hand looper. 3.

  • Page 60: Prick-In

    S-104-100 PRICK IN Prick-in is a method used to view the make-up of a buttonhole by creating a stitch pattern on a piece of paper before actually sewing on a garment. The result of the prick-in will be used as a benchmark for all adjustments.
  • Page 61 S-104-100 PRICK IN 2. Install the throat plate. Insert prick-in needle 02.0001.0.000 into the needle bar. The depth of the needle into the needle bar should be set to allow just the point of the needle to penetrate the paper. Place a piece of paper across the clamp area of the bedplate.

  • Page 62: Eyeshape Adjustment

    S-104-100 EYESHAPE ADJUSTMENT 1. Looking at the newly created stitch pattern, determine which way nut A should be moved in order for a correct eye shape to be obtained. Use the examples below as a guide. 2. To adjust for the eye shape, loosen nut A located on the combination lever B. Move nut up or down as necessary.

  • Page 63: Cutting Space Adjustment

    S-104-100 CUTTING SPACE ADJUSTMENT Cutting space is the distance between the two rows of stitches. The distance will vary with different types of materials. The cutting space sets the boundaries for the knife when cutting the buttonhole. The proper cutting space sets these boundaries without damaging the stitches. An example of cutting space is shown below.

  • Page 64: Stitch Bite Width Adjustment

    S-104-100 STITCH BITE WIDTH ADJUSTMENT The stitch bite is the width of the stitch. The width will vary with different types of materials. An example of the stitch bite is shown below. To adjust, loosen nut A, and move drag link B up or down (up decreases stitch bite; down increases stitch bite) as necessary.

  • Page 65: Buttonhole Length Adjustment

    S-104-100 BUTTONHOLE LENGTH ADJUSTMENT Loosen wing nut A, move length gauge B so that it is aligned with the size of the desired buttonhole engraved on the length indicator C. The length indicator is used to show the length of the buttonhole. Once the adjustment has been made, re-tighten wing nut A.

  • Page 66: Flybar Adjustment

    S-104-100 FLYBAR ADJUSTMENT The flybar is the position of the buttonhole where the second row of stitches crosses over the first row of stitches, as shown in the example below. The length of the flybar can range from 0 to 3/8 of an inch. To adjust, loosen nut A, and move lever B forward or backward (move lever forward for a shorter flybar;...

  • Page 67: End Stitch Adjustment

    S-104-100 END STITCH ADJUSTMENT 1. Loosen nut A. Adjust screw B for proper stopping by turning the screw in or out (in will make the machine stop sooner; out will make the machine stop later) as necessary. 2. Once screw B has been adjusted, re-tighten nut A. Revised 09/2004 e-mail: service@amfreece.cz;...

  • Page 68: Stitch Count Adjustment

    S-104-100 STITCH COUNT ADJUSTMENT To adjust the stitch count, loosen nut A and move slide link B forward or backward (forward increases the number of stitches; backward decreases the number of stitches) as necessary. Once the adjustment has been made, re-tighten nut A. To increase or decrease the number of stitches in the eye portion of the buttonhole, perform the following steps: No eye buttonholes (Adjustable Flybar Only)

  • Page 69: Cutting Steel And Knife Adjustment

    S-104-100 CUTTING STEEL AND KNIFE ADJUSTMENTS Knife and Cutting Lever Adjustment 1. Ensure cutting steel A is properly inserted into the cutting lever. To insert, loosen screw D and slide the new steel in. It must be squared with the lever and seated all the way back to the locating pin. Once the steel is in place, re-tighten screw D.
  • Page 70 S-104-100 CUTTING STEEL AND KNIFE ADJUSTMENTS 6. Knife holder G (with knife inserted) must line up with the center of the prick-in. If it does no, loosen screw H and screw I (located on both sides of the knife holder), and slide knife holder left or right ad necessary.
  • Page 71 S-104-100 CUTTING STEEL AND KNIFE ADJUSTMENTS Adjusting the Cutting Pressure The cutting pressure should be adjusted when the cutting steel is replaced or the material being sewn has been changed. To change the cutting pressure, perform the following steps. 1. Loosen jam nuts A and move in or out (in will increase the cutting pressure; out will decrease the cutting pressure) as necessary.
  • Page 72 S-104-100 CUTTING STEEL AND KNIFE ADJUSTMENTS Replacing the Cutting Steel To replace cutting steel A, perform the following steps: 1. Install cutting steel A into cutting lever C by loosening screw D and sliding new steel in. It must be seated all the way back to the location pin.

  • Page 73: Clamping

    S-104-100 CLAMPING Alignment of Clamp Plates to Bedplate 1. Make sure the machine is in the home position. 2. Install clamp plates A, making sure that the clamp plates are parallel to the bedplate on both sides. If they are not, perform steps 3 through 5. 3.
  • Page 74 S-104-100 CLAMPING Adjusting the Clamp Plate Spread 1. Turn the left hand crank until the rollers on clamp plates A are positioned to the widest part of spreader block G, which is located on the rear of the knife holder. Move the clamp plates side to side in order to center them to the middle of bedplate.
  • Page 75 S-104-100 CLAMPING Setting the Spread of the Clamp Plates The distance of the spread will be determined by the sewing application. The standard clearance between the edge of clamp plate A and outstop C is 0.76 mm (.030”). To adjust, perform the following steps: 1.
  • Page 76 S-104-100 CLAMPING Spread Locking As the clamps are brought down, the spread locks compress the spread locking pins. As the clamps move outward to their maximum spread, the locks move along with the clamp plates. This allows the pins to release, locking the clamps in position until they are released.
  • Page 77 S-104-100 CLAMPING Adjusting the Clamp Pressure The clamp foot pressure has been factory set for medium / heavy weight materials. Additional pressure may be required for light weight materials. To adjust, perform the following steps: 1. Loosen nut A, B and turn adjustment screw C up or down (up increases clamp pressure; down decreases clamp pressure) as necessary.
  • Page 78 S-104-100 CLAMPING Clamp Foot Position and Needle Entry Point The clamp feet must be adjusted so the needle is not allowed to strike the clamp foot on the right hand stroke of the needle bar. To adjust, loosen screw A in mounting base B of clamp arm C. Move the mounting base of the clamp arm in either direction 1 or 2 (moving the mounting base in direction 1 will decrease the distance between the needle and the clamp foot;...
  • Page 79 S-104-100 CLAMPING Disengagement of Clamp Arms Disengagement of the clamps is automatic when the machine is under power. If the clamps are not disen- gaging properly, check the clearance between toggle lever A and clamp arm tip B. The clearance should be 0.40 mm (.016”).
  • Page 80 S-104-100 CLAMPING Engagement of Clamp Arms The engagement of the clamp is automatic when the machine is under power. The clamps engage when the tip of the clamping lever pushes down on the toggle lever, which in turn locks the clamps in place for sewing.
  • Page 81 S-104-100 CLAMPING Unclamping for CB/CA 1. Lift the machine. In the CA position, turn the left hand crank until the cutting lever starts its downward movement, and the bedplate has stopped moving. The unclamping wedge located on the main cam will drive clamp lever assembly A down.
  • Page 82 S-104-100 CLAMPING Clamping Pressure for CB/CA In addition to adjusting the pressure as described on page 1-63, it may be necessary to adjust clamping arm tip A in order to balance the clamping pressure between CB and CA. To adjust, loosen screws B and position clamp- ing arm tip A up or down as necessary, in order to produce a light toggle clamp force.
  • Page 83 S-104-100 CLAMPING Adjustment of the Safety Latch 1. Turn the left hand crank. As the machine reaches home position and the clamps disengage, safety latch A should fit into notch located on clamp tip B. To adjust, loosen screws C and slide bracket E backward or forward as necessary in order to position safety latch A to fit into notch.

  • Page 84: Loopers And Spreaders

    S-104-100 LOOPERS AND SPREADERS Adjusting the Needle Bar Height The needle bar setting is standard to most threads and materials. However, changes to the needle bar height may be required when certain materials and threads are used. 1. Remove the throat plate. Turn the left hand crank until the right hand stop wheel releases. 2.
  • Page 85 S-104-100 LOOPERS AND SPREADERS Adjusting Clearance between Loopers and Needle Before performing the following adjustment, ensure the looper and needle are in alignment (see page 1-45), the throat plate has been removed and the right and left looper have been installed. To install the loopers, loosen screws B and C.

  • Page 86: Loopers And Spreaders

    S-104-100 LOOPERS AND SPREADERS Equalization of Loopers There are two methods of equalizing the loopers: one method utilizes the 6” scale, and the other method utilizes the timing gauge. NOTE: It is not important that the looper reach the center of the needle at this time. It is important that both loopers are equalized after rising .093”...
  • Page 87 S-104-100 LOOPERS AND SPREADERS 5. Loosen screw A and move the left hand looper 1/2 the distance noted in step 3. Once the looper has been moved, re-tighten screw A. Step 2 through 5 may need to be repeated in order to obtain equalization of the loopers.
  • Page 88 S-104-100 LOOPERS AND SPREADERS Travel of Looper to Center of Needle The loopers must travel to the center part of the needle. To adjust, perform the following steps: 1. Loosen screw A and rotate core B clockwise or counterclockwise slightly (rotating the core clockwise will move looper toward the needle;...
  • Page 89 S-104-100 LOOPERS AND SPREADERS Adjusting Spreader Clearance 1. Install left and right hand spreader and spreader stop. The spreader spindle must be set to approximately 0.79 mm (0.031”) above crosshead. To adjust, loosen screw A and move the spindle up or down as necessary. 3.
  • Page 90 S-104-100 LOOPERS AND SPREADERS 7. As the needle bar moves downward on each stroke and the loopers are moving away from the needle, equal clearance must be obtained between the needle and the spreaders. If clearance is not equal, perform step 8 below.

  • Page 91: Upper Tension Thread Release

    S-104-100 UPPER TENSION THREAD RELEASE On Cut-After machines, a thread draw-off cam, turning with the upper sector shaft, pivots with the rocking tension assembly forward. During this time, the race is turning to form the eye. When the stitching ends, the race reverses, allowing the rocking tension to fall back. This releases additional slack thread for starting the next buttonhole.

  • Page 92: Trim Knife Adjustment

    S-104-100 TRIM KNIFE ADJUSTMENT Adjusting for the relaxed position The “relaxed” position is when the trim knife assembly is located over the right hand spreader stop and away from the throat plate. To adjust, loosen nut A and turn screw B counterclockwise or clockwise (counterclockwise will move the trim knife assembly to the right;...
  • Page 93 S-104-100 TRIM KNIFE ADJUSTMENT Upper Thread Trimming for Adjustable Fly During the machine cycle, when the sewing ends, the machine returns to the home position. However, before reaching the home position, the needle thread trim action trims the front leg of the thread loop. To check for the correct timing of the trimming action, perform the following steps: 1.

  • Page 94: Cord Trim Adjustments

    S-104-100 CORD TRIM ADJUSTMENTS Trim Knife Adjustment Adjusting for the relaxed position The “relaxed” position is when the trim knife assembly is located over the right hand spreader stop and away from the throat plate. To adjust, loosen nut A and turn screw B counterclockwise or clockwise )counterclockwise will move the trim knife assembly to the right;...
  • Page 95 S-104-100 CORD TRIM ADJUSTMENTS Upper Thread Trimming During the machine cycle, when the sewing ends, the machine returns to the home position. However, before returning home, the needle thread trim action trims the front leg of the thread loop. To check for the correct timing of the trimming action, perform the following steps: 1.
  • Page 96 S-104-100 CORD TRIM ADJUSTMENTS Upper Thread Trimming for - 170 Short Travel Cord Trim During the machine cycle, the sewing ends and the machine returns to the home position. However, before returning home, the needle thread trim action trims the front leg of the thread loop. To check for the correct timing of the trimming action, perform the following steps: 1.
  • Page 97 S-104-100 CORD TRIM ADJUSTMENTS Lower Thread Draw-off The lower thread draw-off is used to supply enough lower thread into the buttonhole as it is forming the stitch. This allows the thread to be trimmed and still have enough thread retained for the next buttonhole. To adjust, perform the following step: 1.
  • Page 98 S-104-100 CORD TRIM ADJUSTMENTS Adjustment of the Clamp Hold-Down Fingers The fingers hold the garment in place during the shear trimming action. Without the finger, the garment would be permitted to move, causing failure to trim the lower threads, in addition to damaging the gar- ment.
  • Page 99 S-104-100 CORD TRIM ADJUSTMENTS Adjustment of the Shear Sets The Cord Trim shears are designed like a pair of scissors. The edge must cross over each other. However, too much cross-over will cause the machine to malfunction, thus damaging key parts. For this reason, it is imperative that the correct adjustment be maintained.
  • Page 100 S-104-100 CORD TRIM ADJUSTMENTS Shear Cross-Over Knife actuator G is adjusted to run parallel to the edge of the clamp plate. The shears are activated when the race starts to turn back to the home position. As the race turns the paddle, located on the rear of the race, engages the knife actuator which causes the shears to cross-over.
  • Page 101 S-104-100 CORD TRIM ADJUSTMENTS Shears Cross-Over for - 170 Short Travel Cord Trim The short travel cord trim may require the adjustment of actuator G. The adjust would be approximately 15 degree off the parallel adjustment, as described for standard cord trim on page 1-86. To adjust, loosen nut H and rotate actuator to correct position.
  • Page 102 S-104-100 CORD TRIM ADJUSTMENTS Gimp Pull Back A gimp pull back is provided to ensure that there is enough gimp to start the next buttonhole. Spring A acts as a clamp and also adds tension on gimp. Before performing this adjustment, remove gimp pull back assembly B from the machine by pressing inward on floating pin C, which is located on the race.
  • Page 103 S-104-100 CORD TRIM ADJUSTMENTS Top Thread Pick-Up The thread pick-up hook is activated by the downward movement of the cutting lever. Turn the left hand crank until the machine has completed a cycle. Observe the thread pick-up hook as it makes its downward plunge.

  • Page 104: Selecting Cut Before (Cb) Or Cut After (Ca)

    S-104-100 SELECTING CUT BEFORE (CB) OR CUT AFTER (CA) Selecting Cut Before (CB) or Cut After (CA) Change from CB to CA 1. Move the bedplate to its home position. 2. Move the selector lever A, located on the left to the rear of the machine head, to the CA position. 3.

  • Page 105: Preventive Maintenance

    S-104-100 PREVENTIVE MAINTENANCE It is necessary to establish a good preventive maintenance program and adhere to it. It is necessary that the oil is checked and replenished when needed, and the machine be freed of any pieces of material and loose thread on a daily basis.
  • Page 106 S-104-100 RECOMMENDED SPARED PARTS It is recommended that the following spare parts and quantities be kept in stock. These parts are sold individually. Part Number Description 01.2193.0.000 Needle Screw 01.2001.0.000 Looper and Spreader Screw 01.2056.0.000 Throat Plate Screw 10.1030.0.017 Screw 01.2102.0.000 Screw 01.2667.0.000...

  • Page 107: Needles

    S-104-100 NEEDLES Below is a chart listing needles and their description available for the AMF Reece eyelet machines. They are of superior struck groove construction, and chrome plated. They vary in size and type as listed below. These needles can be purchased by the box (100/box) through the Part Department.

  • Page 108: Knives And Cutting Steels

    S-104-100 KNIVES AND CUTTING STEELS The knives and cutting steels are stamped with the last four digits of this part number. The cutting steels are also stamped with its size. To reorder original knives or cutting steels, give the first six digits of the part number, plus the last four digits stamped on the original part.

  • Page 109: Troubleshooting

    S-104-100 TROUBLESHOOTING Reversing Direction of the Main Cam In the event that something becomes lodged between the main cam and the roller, the rotation of the main cam can be reversed so the object lodged can be removed. This can be done without having to disassemble the machine.
  • Page 110 S-104-100 TROUBLESHOOTING 4. Remove the left hand wheel by removing screw J and sliding the wheel off. Remove the handle by removing screw K located inside the handle. Re-install the handle on the opposite side of the left hand wheel. Re-install hand wheel reversed on shaft as shown below. 5.
  • Page 111 S-104-100 TROUBLESHOOTING POSSIBLE SOLUTION POSSIBLE CAUSE SYMPTOM Check electrical plug and wiring Motor fails to start. No power to the motor Check with a voltage meter Incorrect voltage Check transformer output Transformer Replace starter Faculty motor starter Recheck stop motion Motor started and ran for a Left wheel dog will not engage short period of time, then...
  • Page 112 S-104-100 TROUBLESHOOTING POSSIBLE SOLUTION POSSIBLE CAUSE SYMPTOM Oil throughly hole in screw located on Uneven feeding Left wheel does not turn freely left hand end of shaft on lower rear shaft Adjust Main cam friction too tight or too loose Adjust compression Improperly set friction collar Replace...
  • Page 113 S-104-100 TROUBLESHOOTING POSSIBLE SOLUTION POSSIBLE CAUSE SYMPTOM Re-adjust stop motion Machine fails to stop Stop motion incorrectly adjusted stitching Free the shaft Rocking lever shaft binding in head casting Adjust rocker arm; before doing so, Excessive side play in rocker ensure the pressure on length gauge is correct Replace belts...
  • Page 114 S-104-100 TROUBLESHOOTING POSSIBLE SOLUTION POSSIBLE CAUSE SYMPTOM Re-adjust clamp yoke as aligned Uneven pressure of clamp Clamp pull downs not correctly needed feet Re-tighten screws and nuts or Clamp pull downs are loose or replace broken Replace knife Machine fails to cut Damaged knife material Repair or replace cutting block...
  • Page 115 S-104-100 TROUBLESHOOTING POSSIBLE SOLUTION POSSIBLE CAUSE SYMPTOM Cutting stitches on a Cut Tighten thread tension Thread tension is loose After machine Adjust clamp spread Insufficient clamp spreading Adjust clamps Clamps not holding work correctly Adjust cutting knife Cutting knife not centered Adjust cutting steel Cutting steel not centered to knife Adjust the bite and cutting space...
  • Page 116 S-104-100 TROUBLESHOOTING POSSIBLE SOLUTION POSSIBLE CAUSE SYMPTOM Skipping stitches (cont’d) Re-adjust clearance Too much clearance between clamp foot and needle entry point Re-adjust clamp spread Clamp spread incorrectly adjusted Re-thread the machine Improper threading Adjust tension Improper tensions Skipped stitches at sew Re-adjust upper tension start release Sew start thread length too short start...
  • Page 117 S-104-100 TROUBLESHOOTING POSSIBLE SOLUTION POSSIBLE CAUSE SYMPTOM Adjust trimming Thread breaking and Trimming improperly adjusted running back out of needle Adjust tension Tension improperly adjusted Re-check threading Threading incorrect Re-adjust clearance Needle breakage Incorrect clearance between needle and loopers / spreaders Re-adjust clearance Incorrect clearance between needle and clamp foot...
  • Page 118 S-104-100 TROUBLESHOOTING POSSIBLE SOLUTION POSSIBLE CAUSE SYMPTOM Row of stitching is cut by Re-adjust cutting width Inadequate cutting width knife after sewing cycle is complete Re-adjust cutting lever Cutting lever incorrectly adjusted Re-adjust clamp spread Incorrect clamp spread Re-adjust length gauge Buttonhole length too short Decreased buttonhole See appropriate adjustments...

This manual is also suitable for:

Reece s101Reece s100Reece s104Reece s211Reece decostitchReece s4000 bh

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