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Having tapered the keel from the bearding line aft as previously instructed on page 3, the first planking, of 1x4mm lime, can be
started below the gunport pattern.
The first plank to be laid each side will run flush below the gunport pattern, noting that it will begin to 'turn in' at bulkhead 8
(turning from vertical to horizontal) and will be fully horizontal against the underside of bulkhead 9 (Photo 011). This plank
should not require any tapering front or back. This plank and all of the first planking should be pinned, with flat head pins
(184), and glued into position with PVA wood glue. As the plywood bulkheads are very strong, it is recommended that 0.5mm
holes be drilled into the bulkheads before the insertion of the pins. When pushing the brass pins into the planks and bulkheads,
leave at least 3mm protruding so that they can be easily removed once the planks are secure.
Note: All planks should be allowed to extend for a short distance past the after face of bulkhead 9 (Photo 010 & 011); they
will be trimmed back, together, at a later stage.
The second plank and the remainder of the first planking is also 1x4mm lime and will run the whole length of the hull bearing
in mind the following points:
1.
Ensure all bulkhead bevelling has been achieved.
2.
The planking will commence from the underside of the first plank laid, down to the keel.
3.
Before pinning and gluing the lime planking into position, it should be soaked in water for a short period. This
will assist in both the shaping of the plank around the hull and the tapering of the plank.
4.
At the bows, the planking should lie against the already bevelled plank termination patterns and butt up against
the stem. For guidance, the lime planking will follow the line of the gunport pattern.
5.
On the underside of the hull, the inboard
6.
The first seven planks laid each side will be fitted, horizontally, against the underside of bulkhead 9. The eighth
plank laid each side will run onto the keel, vertically, terminating at the top of the bearding line (Photo 011).
7.
You should lay two or three planks on the port or starboard side, then turn the hull and lay two or three planks on
the opposite side and continue this alternating port / starboard method in order to prevent the keel being pulled
out of line.
Note: For best results, all planks should be allowed to lie naturally, do not try to artificially bend them with nippers / plank
benders, or force them into position. As you start down to the curved side of the bow, the planks will need to be tapered to
follow their natural run. In order to determine the amount of taper required for each plank to lie naturally, dry fit the plank
from the 4th bulkhead around to the bow; mark the excess area of the plank that overlaps the plank immediately above it. This
process should be repeated to determine any overlap for the stern also.
Before cutting the taper into the planks, soak them in water for an hour or so as this will minimise the chance of the knife blade
following the grain of the wood rather than the edge of the steel rule.
Lay the first wet plank to be tapered on a clean, flat surface (a cutting mat is ideal). Press firmly with a steel rule onto the
marked taper line on the plank and score down the line with a heavy-duty craft knife several times until the excess is cut off
(do not attempt to cut the plank in one pass!).
Use this planking method right down the hull. When planking is almost complete you will notice triangular shaped gaps at the
stern (and bow to a lesser degree). This was also the case in full size practise, although not so simplified. The use of triangular
shaped planks (called stealers
planking and glue them into the gaps (Photo 012 shows the second planking but the same applies for the first planking).
With the first planking completed trim the excess planking, extending beyond bulkhead 9, to shape flush against the after edge
of bulkhead 9. Apply a coat of watered down PVA wood glue to the inside surface of the first planking and leave the hull to
fully cure for at least 24 hours.
The next stage is to sand the hull with a coarse grade abrasive paper, followed by a medium grade. This will obviously entail a
few hours work but it will form the basis for the second planking, remember to remove all pins (184) before sanding begins.
The building cradle
(17 –
u
) are needed for these gaps. Cut these to shape using the excess limewood from the ends of the
19) can now be constructed; ideally this should be squarely and firmly secured to a building board.
Photo 011
First Planking
u
sides of the final planks will butt up against the false keel.
©
2006 JoTiKa Ltd.
Photo 012
7
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