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Identify and remove the transom cabin roof support (65) from the 2mm walnut sheet, together with the stern fascia (77) from
the 1.5mm walnut sheet.
When the stern fascia is fitted it should be orientated such that the profiled slots for the acetate and window frames are exposed
(facing aft), as with the captain's cabin screen it is of benefit to clean these recesses ready to accept the acetate and brass
etched frame – these are not to be fitted at this stage but preparation is best achieved off the model now.
With thought toward the following instructions for fitting the stern fascia (specifically point 1 below), glue the transom cabin
roof support into place across the top of the stern extensions (Photo 029).
Note: It will be of benefit to slightly bevel the upper edge of the transom cabin roof support, ready to accept the cabin roof
planking of 1x4mm walnut, prior to gluing in place, a temporarily positioned plank should be used to help gauge the bevel
required.
With the stern cabin roof support fitted, temporarily offer the stern fascia up centrally across the stern extensions, there are
several points of reference to note when doing this as follows:
1.
The forward face of the stern fascia will be glued to the after face of the transom cabin roof support as well as the
stern extensions.
2.
The top edge of the stern fascia should be positioned approximately 1.5mm above the top edge of the stern cabin
roof support – the use of crocodile clips or similar to help position the fascia is recommended.
3.
If not achieved previously, the edges of the stern counter planking will require trimming and bevelling to ensure a
tight, clean fit with the lower edge of the stern fascia (the lower edge of the fascia should also be bevelled to
achieve this).
4.
The athwartships convex
5.
The inner most fascia window openings should have their inner edges equally spaced just outboard of inner stern
extensions; the stern extensions should not foul any of the windows (Photo 030).
6.
The outboard edges of the stern fascia will extend just beyond the outer hull planking – this is correct and should
not be trimmed. However, the uppermost after point of the hull planking should closely intersect the edge of the
stern fascia as can be seen in (Photo 029).
When you are happy with the dry fit of the fascia it can be glued into place. Once thoroughly dry it is recommended that the
area between bulkhead 9 and the inner face of the stern fascia be painted dull black – this will hide the ply components, giving
a feeling of depth to the cabin when viewed through the stern windows.
At this stage consideration should be given to the way in which you will glaze the windows. It can either be done by cutting 5
individual pieces to fit into the recessed window frames or two lengths can be cut and secured across the inside face of the
stern fascia. In either case, PVA should be used to prevent discoloration of the acetate.
Identify the stern fascia window frames (149) on the 0.5mm brass etched sheet and paint them matt white. Do not remove the
window frames from the sheet at this stage, the frames are orientated on the brass sheet in their correct order for fitting but are
so similar in size that they could be easily mixed up. One window frame at a time should be removed and fitted, with PVA
wood glue, into its profiled locating slot in the stern fascia.
Note: The vertical and horizontal window frame dividers are profiled and they should be orientated so that the flush face is
against the acetate and the profiling is visible on the model.
Identify and remove the stern fascia surrounds, upper (78) and lower (79), from the 1.5mm walnut sheet. Dry fit the surrounds
onto the after face of the fascia ensuring they fit flush to the outboard edges of the fascia (Photo 030). When you are happy
with their fit they can be glued into place. At a time of your choosing the surrounds (not the fascia) should be painted dull
black.
u
curve formed across the stern extensions should be maintained.
Photo 029
The Stern Fascia
©
2006 JoTiKa Ltd.
Photo 030
15
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