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Jotika H.M. Brig Badger Assembly Manual page 46

Nelson's first command

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Futtock Shrouds:
Identify the 2.5mm deadeyes and futtock strops (147). The futtock strops should be painted matt (metal) black at a time of your
choosing. Insert a deadeye into each strop and position the strops into the slots in the tops as shown on
Plan Sheet 7, 'Fitting
of Deadeye Futtock
Strops'. The futtock strops are attached to the futtock staves by the futtock shrouds and brass etched
rigging hooks (151), as shown. The futtock shrouds are 0.50mm black thread for both masts.
The fore mast futtock shrouds are secured to the futtock staves close by the 1st, 3rd and 5th (fore backstay) shrouds.
The main mast futtock shrouds are secured to the futtock staves close by the 1st, 2nd and 4th shrouds.
Topmast Shrouds:
The topmast shrouds are set up in a similar manner to the lower mast shrouds using 0.5mm black thread and 2.5mm deadeyes
as shown on
Plan Sheet
7. The lanyards (cable laid) should be rigged to the deadeyes using 0.25mm natural thread as shown.
Note: The upper and lower deadeyes of the topmast shrouds should be uniformly spaced with a 12mm jig.
There are a pair of 0.70mm brass futtock staves on the main and fore topmast shrouds positioned and secured as described
above, there are no catharpins.
Topgallant Shrouds:
The topgallant shrouds, of 0.25mm black thread, are set up in a similar manner to the lower and topmast shrouds although no
deadeyes are used. The first pair is secured to the topmast futtock stave (close by the forward topmast shroud), passes up
through the hole in the end of the forward topmast crosstree, leads round the topgallant mast hounds (formed by the stop
cleats) as shown and passes back down through the hole in the after topmast crosstree and is secured to the futtock stave (close
by the after topmast shroud). Again the shrouds should be secured with a simple clove hitch close under the hounds. Two 3mm
single blocks (1 per side) should now be secured between the two shrouds directly beneath the clove hitch.
Ratlines:
This stage will require a considerable amount of time and patience but the end result will be its own reward.
0.1mm natural thread is used for the ratlines and is secured to each shroud with a clove hitch as shown on
Plan Sheet 7,
'Rigging
Detail'. The first ratline should be positioned approximately 10mm above the shroud pinrails, the remainder should
be uniformly spaced approximately 5mm apart, up to the futtock stave. Leave about 15mm of excess thread at each end of each
row of ratlines; this will make the process of trimming the ends much easier (Photo 065).
Note: The fore backstay (5th shroud) is not rigged with ratlines.
The topmast shrouds and futtock shrouds are also all rigged with ratlines of 0.1mm natural thread spaced at 5mm intervals, the
topgallant shrouds are not rattled.
When all the ratlines are finally rattled stain them by carefully brushing on black Indian ink, or diluted dull black paint can be used
if you prefer. Before applying the ink, cover the back of the shrouds with paper to ensure no drops are spilt on the deck. When the
ink has dried it may be necessary to pull the ends of the ratlines to bring the shrouds back to shape as a slight shrinking may have
occurred as the ink dried. Finally cut off the excess thread with a small sharp pair of scissors.
Bowsprit:
The bowsprit can now be glued into position, flush against the upper sloping face of the stem and relocating the previously
fitted 1mm brass rod into the bitts; ensure that the cap remains vertical when viewed from the front and perpendicular to the
waterline when viewed from the side. The bowsprit is also held in position by one set of gammoning of 5 turns in 0.5mm black
thread. The gammoning passes over the bowsprit in front of the gammoning cleats, down and through the gammoning slot in
the stem.
Note: With five turns of gammoning in place, do not cut or tie off the end, instead pass it around the centre of the gammoning,
between the bowsprit and stem, five times and secure off to itself.
Driver Boom and Driver Gaff:
It would be normal practice to attach the driver boom and driver gaff now, however as there is very little rigging aft of the
main mast they can easily be fitted later, keeping the model more manageable for the rest of the rigging process. If you prefer
to ship them now, all required instruction can be found on page 58.
©
45
2006 JoTiKa Ltd.

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