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The waterline
should now be marked onto the hull. As can be seen from
conforming, that is to say it does not run parallel to the keel. Below the waterline, as our research has shown, would have been
covered with 'white stuff'
In order to assist in the marking of the waterline, a small waterline jig (16) has been designed. The two holes drilled into the
keel for the stand supporting rods should also be used during the following procedure.
Using a sufficiently large and flat surface, mdf / chipboard or similar, drill two holes the same distance apart as those in the
keel and the same diameter as the supporting rods into this surface. The after rod should allow the hull to rest on the flat
surface; the foremost rod will have to be longer to allow the keel to rise off the surface.
Identify and remove the waterline jig (16) from the 5mm ply sheet and clear the slot of any debris so that it will fit around the
false keel. Referring to
Plan Sheet
will raise the bows, at this position, 16mm off the flat surface. Throughout this procedure the aftermost point of the false keel
should remain in contact with the flat surface, forming the pivot point, it is not raised.
The hull should be adequately supported using small blocks and set square, and must be able to support the hull so that the
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prow
and the stern post are perpendicular to the base board throughout the procedure, i.e. the hull should remain perfectly
upright.
Using a vernier gauge or similar device (wooden block etc.), set the gauge so that the pencil held by the device is 52mm above
the flat surface. Drag the device around the hull, marking out the waterline as you progress. The waterline should be equal both
sides, if the hull is held correctly with the keel remaining perpendicular to the base, it will be.
Using masking tape, mask off the area above this line and paint the area below matt white. The area of the exposed walnut
stem, above the waterline, should be painted dull black.
The central portion of the false deck, previously fitted between bulkheads 6 and 8, will be visible through the main
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companionway
on the completed model. It is therefore necessary to plank this area with 1x4mm Tanganyika strip. The
planking should be started at the centre line of the deck, progressing outboard until flush against the upright of bulkhead 7.
Sand and varnish the deck planking upon completion.
Before the upper gun deck can be fitted, it is necessary to remove the bulkhead stubs above deck level. Using (Photos 20 – 24)
for reference, this is achieved as follows:
1. Using a razor saw or similar, carefully cut through the bulkhead stub as close to deck level as possible. Care should be
taken not to cut through the gunport pattern or hull planking, however, small scratches are not a problem as they will
be covered by the inner bulwark
2. Using a pair of long nosed pliers, grip and gently twist the bulkhead stub back and forth until it comes away from the
gunport pattern.
3. With the stub removed any remaining splinters of the stub can be cut away with a sharp scalpel or by sanding. Any
remaining height of the stub should also be sanded back until it follows the camber
Note: Great care should be taken when removing the bulkhead stubs near to the gunports. It is important that the forward, after
and lower edges remain clean and straight.
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The area of the fore
plank termination patterns, above the profiled slot, also require removal following the same principles but
there is no need to saw through them – this has been effectively achieved by the profiled slot. Take care not to damage either
the hull planking or the walnut stem.
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, therefore the hull below the waterline should be painted matt white.
3, the jig should be positioned at a point 220mm from the after edge of the false keel; this
The Upper Gun Deck
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planking.
The Waterline
Plan Sheet
The False Deck
©
2006 JoTiKa Ltd.
1, the waterline would appear to be non-
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of the bulkhead deck support.
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