Download
Share
Print this page
  1. Manuals
  2. Brands
  3. Jotika Manuals
  4. Toy
  5. H.M. Brig Badger
  6. Assembly manual

Jotika H.M. Brig Badger Assembly Manual

Nelson's first command
Hide thumbs

Advertisement

Quick Links

Download this manual
H.M. B
B
RIG
ADGER
N
F
C
ELSON'S
IRST
OMMAND
Manual 1 of 2
Hull Construction, Masting & Rigging
Additional photos of every stage of construction can be found on our website at:
http://www.jotika-ltd.com
Nelsons Navy Kits manufactured and distributed by JoTiKa Ltd.
Model Marine Warehouse, Hadzor, Droitwich, WR9 7DS.
Tel ~ +44 (0) 1905 776 073
Fax ~ +44 (0) 1905 776 712
Email ~ nelsonsnavy@jotika-ltd.com

Advertisement

loading

Related Manuals for Jotika H.M. Brig Badger

Summary of Contents for Jotika H.M. Brig Badger

  • Page 1 Hull Construction, Masting & Rigging Additional photos of every stage of construction can be found on our website at: http://www.jotika-ltd.com Nelsons Navy Kits manufactured and distributed by JoTiKa Ltd. Model Marine Warehouse, Hadzor, Droitwich, WR9 7DS. Tel ~ +44 (0) 1905 776 073 Fax ~ +44 (0) 1905 776 712 Email ~ nelsonsnavy@jotika-ltd.com...
  • Page 2 32-Gun Frigate Lowestoffe - the ship which Nelson was tending. Nelson was promoted to the commissioned officer status of Lieutenant on 31st December 1778, when he was commissioned to Badger and Badger was therefore his first official command. © 2006 JoTiKa Ltd.

  • Page 3: Getting Started

    Admiralty Paints are also available as high quality waterbased paints, if you prefer waterbased simply add W to the end of the part number when ordering. © 2006 JoTiKa Ltd.

  • Page 4: Before You Begin

    Gently sand the shaded area, towards the stern, until you have a taper from the bearding line to 3mm wide at the stern. Continue as instructed with the second planking and upon completion the width at the stern will again be 5mm. © 2006 JoTiKa Ltd.
  • Page 5 The outer stern extensions (41) can now be identified and removed from the 3mm ply sheet and glued into position in the outboard slots, after face, of bulkhead 9. The inner stern extensions (40) can be left off the model until a later stage, reducing the risk of damage. © 2006 JoTiKa Ltd.
  • Page 6 (Photo 006). With the bevelling achieved, bulkhead 9 can also be glued into place on the keel and should be positioned as far forward as its locating ‘notch’ will allow. © 2006 JoTiKa Ltd.
  • Page 7 (port and starboard) are aligned to those opposite. This whole assembly should now be set aside to dry thoroughly, offer support to the assembly to prevent distortion. © 2006 JoTiKa Ltd.
  • Page 8 (184) before sanding begins. The building cradle (17 – 19) can now be constructed; ideally this should be squarely and firmly secured to a building board. Photo 011 Photo 012 © 2006 JoTiKa Ltd.
  • Page 9 Note: The stern fascia (77) should only be offered into position at this stage, it will not be finally fitted until instructed, after completion of the second planking. Photo 013 Photo 014 Photo 015 Photo 016 © 2006 JoTiKa Ltd.
  • Page 10 As before, the after end of these planks should be allowed to extend just beyond the after edge of the gunport pattern and trimmed back, together, upon completion. The stern post should now be permanently fixed into position. Photo 017 Photo 018 Photo 019 © 2006 JoTiKa Ltd.
  • Page 11 – this has been effectively achieved by the profiled slot. Take care not to damage either the hull planking or the walnut stem. © 2006 JoTiKa Ltd.
  • Page 12 Note: Do not paint the false deck planking black. © 2006 JoTiKa Ltd.
  • Page 13 Continue planking up the bulwark, clearing the gunports as you progress. At a time of your choosing, the inner bulwarks together with the gunport sides and base should be painted red ochre. © 2006 JoTiKa Ltd.
  • Page 14 – the covers can be shown either open or closed (Photos 026 & 027) to your own preference but bear in mind that the ships boats will be positioned over the main hatch at a later stage. © 2006 JoTiKa Ltd.
  • Page 15 With the 1.5x1.5mm recessed lining in place, the main companionway opening will measure 12.5x7mm. The main companionway cover will be constructed and fitted at a later stage as it is a delicate structure. Fig 001 © 2006 JoTiKa Ltd.
  • Page 16 (Photo 030). When you are happy with their fit they can be glued into place. At a time of your choosing the surrounds (not the fascia) should be painted dull black. © 2006 JoTiKa Ltd.
  • Page 17 With the outboard capping rail step correctly positioned to overhang the hull by 1.5mm, the inboard capping rail step should be overhanging the inner bulwark planking by approximately 2mm. This will be sanded back to 1.5mm in order to form a flush fit with the inboard face of the after capping rails. © 2006 JoTiKa Ltd.
  • Page 18 As you work outward from the centreline to the ship’s side the outer planks will no longer extend aft to the stern fascia, instead they are to be trimmed and shaped to terminate flush against the inboard face of the after capping rails and onto the recess previously formed. © 2006 JoTiKa Ltd.
  • Page 19 Note: Referring to page 19 the third and fifth pedestals (from the front) are fitted with large cleats as described, you may find it of benefit to drill these pedestals and fit the cleats prior to securing the pedestals onto the model. © 2006 JoTiKa Ltd.
  • Page 20 Note: The positions for these cleats should be drilled with a 1mm drill and it is important that the holes are drilled no deeper than 2mm – if you drill deeper than this you risk breaking through the outer hull planking. Photo 033 Photo 034 © 2006 JoTiKa Ltd.
  • Page 21 Note: Once fitted the catheads form delicate structures which can be easily ‘knocked’, as such you may wish to finally fit them at a later stage. Photo 035 Photo 036 © 2006 JoTiKa Ltd.
  • Page 22 Note: The cannon trunnion is not glued to the carriage or the trunnion straps, it should be free to allow the cannon to be raised or lowered with the quoin when fitted. Photo 037 Photo 038 © 2006 JoTiKa Ltd.
  • Page 23 This method can be applied to the production of all cheeses on this model (Photo 038). Once the rigging is in place, brush watered down PVA over the ropes and blocks. Again, time effort and patience is required for best results. © 2006 JoTiKa Ltd.
  • Page 24 Identify and remove the ship’s wheel outer rim detail (165) and ship’s wheel inner hub detail (166) from the 0.3mm brass etch sheet. The inner hub detail is first to be fitted as follows: Insert a 15mm length of 1.5mm brass wire through the hole in the centre of the inner hub of the ship’s wheel. © 2006 JoTiKa Ltd.
  • Page 25 (away from the ship’s wheel) (Photos 043 & 044). Five turns of 0.25mm natural thread should be wound around the drum of the wheel and secured with watered down PVA, leaving a tail at each end of approximately 12mm in length as shown. © 2006 JoTiKa Ltd.

  • Page 26: Deck Fittings

    The opposite ends of the retaining ropes should pass aft and down through 0.5mm holes drilled in the after outboard corners of the hatch rebate and secured with cyanoacrylate. © 2006 JoTiKa Ltd.
  • Page 27 Once complete the door can be positioned into its locating hole in the front of the galley, it can be shown in an open or closed position of your choosing. Note: The hinges are orientated to the starboard side. © 2006 JoTiKa Ltd.
  • Page 28 With the bowsprit correctly shaped and seated against both the deck and the bitts, its area of contact with the bitts should be noted. Both the bitts and bowsprit can now be removed and it will be necessary to drill a 1mm hole through the bitts and into © 2006 JoTiKa Ltd.
  • Page 29 With the channel correctly positioned and orientated the ‘notches’ in the outboard face, which will later hold the shroud deadeyes in place, should not interfere with the gunports. © 2006 JoTiKa Ltd.
  • Page 30 The hawse holes are directly below the centreline between the knighthead and first timberhead. Their centre points are approximately 2mm above the lower sheer rail. When you are happy with their positioning they can be drilled, taking care not to splinter the inner bulwarks. Photo 051 © 2006 JoTiKa Ltd.
  • Page 31 Note: Using (Photo 051, 052 & 053) for reference, the boomkins should run outward and downward as shown. With the locating hole made the boomkins should be removed and put safely aside. Due to their delicate structure they will not be fitted until a later stage as instructed. Photo 052 Photo 053 © 2006 JoTiKa Ltd.

  • Page 32: The Rudder

    The gudgeon straps should lie flush against the hull and will need to be slightly bent to achieve this and should also run perpendicular to the after edge of the rudder post. The rudder can be finally fitted to the model at a time of your choosing. © 2006 JoTiKa Ltd.
  • Page 33 Dome headed pins (183), painted matt (metal) black, should be used to secure the lower end of the chainplates against the hull, directly onto the wale. A 0.65mm pilot hole should be drilled into the hull for each pin. © 2006 JoTiKa Ltd.
  • Page 34 Rotate the dowel and, ensuring it is still positioned as described in point 1 above, mark a second line across the end of the dowel, again flush to the profiled ‘leg’ (Photo 060). The point at which the two lines intersect is the centre point of the dowel. Photo 058 Photo 059 © 2006 JoTiKa Ltd.
  • Page 35 The bowsprit and jib-boom should be stained walnut and the area of each, between the bowsprit cap and the forward end of the second pair of stop cleats painted dull black. This includes the bowsprit cap, bees, jib-boom saddle, spritsail yard saddle and the first pair of stop cleats (Photo 061). © 2006 JoTiKa Ltd.
  • Page 36 With the three (or four) sections of the topmast formed they can be pinned and glued together with 1.5mm brass rod, again make use of the dowel centring jig for all round section. Note: The flat faces of the lower section and the ‘head’ must be in alignment on the completed topmast. © 2006 JoTiKa Ltd.
  • Page 37 Note: A 0.5mm hole, to simulate a sheave, should be drilled fore-and-aft through the main topgallant mast, at a distance of 35mm below the mast head, this will be required when rigging the main topgallant yard tie. © 2006 JoTiKa Ltd.
  • Page 38 With the three (or four) sections of the topmast formed they can be pinned and glued together with 1.5mm brass rod, again make use of the dowel centring jig for all round sections. Note: The flat faces of the lower section and the ‘head’ must be in alignment on the completed topmast. © 2006 JoTiKa Ltd.
  • Page 39 4mm dowel, each 75mm in length and tapered along their length from 4mm down to 2.5mm. With the three section for each lower yard formed they can be pinned and glued together. Fore Lower Yard Studding Sail Booms: © 2006 JoTiKa Ltd.
  • Page 40 6, drill a hole into the underside of the yards to accept the stirrups, taking care not to drill right through the yard. The stirrup can then be trimmed and fitted so that the loop hangs approximately 15mm below the yard. © 2006 JoTiKa Ltd.
  • Page 41 Fig 002 Fore Mast Lower Top, ‘Topside’ Fore Mast Lower Top, ‘Underside’ Fore Mast Lower Top, ‘Forward Elevation’ © 2006 JoTiKa Ltd.
  • Page 42 Fig 003 Main Mast Lower Top, ‘Topside’ Main Mast Lower Top, ‘Underside’ Main Mast Lower Top, ‘Forward Elevation’ © 2006 JoTiKa Ltd.
  • Page 43 Fig 004 Main & Fore Topmast Tops, ‘Topside’ Main & Fore Topmast Tops, ‘Underside’ © 2006 JoTiKa Ltd.

  • Page 44: Standing Rigging

    The pendants hang down 28mm below the top and an eye (loop) should be formed in each of their ends (unlike the tackle pendant they are not fitted with a block). © 2006 JoTiKa Ltd.
  • Page 45 4th and 5th (fore backstay) shrouds. On the main mast there are 2 catharpins from 0.25mm black thread. They are positioned between the 2nd and 3rd and the 3rd and 4th shrouds. Note: All catharpins run aft of the masts. © 2006 JoTiKa Ltd.
  • Page 46 If you prefer to ship them now, all required instruction can be found on page 58. © 2006 JoTiKa Ltd.
  • Page 47 0.25mm natural thread should be set up between the two triangular deadeyes with the running end belayed back onto the stay, above the deadeye (Photo 066). Note: The main stay passes the fore mast on the starboard side. © 2006 JoTiKa Ltd.
  • Page 48 Fig 005 Forward three quarters view Side profile Plan View © 2006 JoTiKa Ltd.
  • Page 49 A 5mm single block with a rigging hook (151) seized into its arse is hooked into the copper eyelet (hook up). The tackle is then set up between the two blocks and the falls are belayed to the first starboard timberhead (b3). © 2006 JoTiKa Ltd.
  • Page 50 Plan Sheet 7. The standing end is secured into the copper eyelet in the hull as shown and a lanyard of 0.25mm natural thread is rigged, with a 15mm jig used to separate the deadeyes. © 2006 JoTiKa Ltd.

  • Page 51: Running Rigging

    A tackle is set up between the 3mm single and double block and is belayed to the port outboard end of the bitts crosspiece (b7). © 2006 JoTiKa Ltd.
  • Page 52 140mm below the main top. The 3mm single blocks are held in 60mm pendants rigged to copper eyelets (c8) in the main channels (aft) and the falls belay to the aftermost belaying pin in the main shroud pinrail (b10). © 2006 JoTiKa Ltd.
  • Page 53 (port buntline to port block and vice versa). They then lead down ‘through’ the fore top lubber’s hole and belay to the outboard belaying pins in the bitts crosspiece (b18). © 2006 JoTiKa Ltd.
  • Page 54 3mm single blocks on the spritsail yard arms and the running end now passes in toward the bow (over the spritsail yard) and is belayed to the first timberhead (b22), one per side. There are no buntlines on the spritsail yard. © 2006 JoTiKa Ltd.
  • Page 55 (180) just forward of the first gunport and the running end then passes forward and through the unused 3mm block (of the sheet and clue garnet strop assembly) and leads in to the bows where it is belayed to the second, from the front, timberhead (b24). Fig 007 © 2006 JoTiKa Ltd.
  • Page 56 9. It then reeves through the 3mm single block in the end of the sheet, back up through the 3mm single clueline block on the topgallant yard, it then leads down and belays to the foremost futtock strop on the fore top (b30). © 2006 JoTiKa Ltd.
  • Page 57 (60mm long) on the end of the fore yard, back and through the 3mm single block held in a 7mm pendant on the collar of the main stay, 5mm below the standing end of the brace, it then leads down and is belayed to the foremost deck cleat outboard of the main mast (b37). © 2006 JoTiKa Ltd.
  • Page 58 The running end passes forward and through the 3mm single block lashed to the aftermost fore topgallant shroud, directly below the futtock stave. It then passes down and is belayed to the aftermost futtock strop on the fore top (b42). © 2006 JoTiKa Ltd.
  • Page 59 (b46). A small span of 0.1mm natural thread is now rigged between the boom and the topping lift; it is positioned 50mm from the end of the driver and is secured to the topping lift approximately 40mm from the standing end of the topping lift. © 2006 JoTiKa Ltd.
  • Page 60 The anchor cable, of 1.3mm natural thread, is seized to the anchor with an inside clinch. The cable is then led inboard, through the hawse holes and taken aft along the deck and down through the holes in the after corners of the forward deck grating. Photo 070 Photo 071 © 2006 JoTiKa Ltd.
  • Page 61 Finally, glue the launch knees (109) in place and cut the rowlocks into the launch sides. The rowlocks should be 1.5mm deep and 1.5mm wide, positioned centrally between the pairs of ribs aft of each thwart. © 2006 JoTiKa Ltd.
  • Page 62 Fig 010 © 2006 JoTiKa Ltd.
  • Page 63 Photo 072 Photo 073 Photo 074 Photo 075 Photo 076 Photo 077 Photo 078 Photo 079 Photo 080 © 2006 JoTiKa Ltd.
  • Page 64 The rubbing strakes are positioned 1.5mm below the top of the cutter’s side. There are only four thwarts. There are only four rowlocks, two per side alternating as shown. There are no bottom boards. There are no knees. Fig 011 © 2006 JoTiKa Ltd.
  • Page 65 When you are happy with the fit the whole assembly (boats, accessories and stands) should be pinned and glued into place. © 2006 JoTiKa Ltd.