Advertisement
Identify and remove the stern fascia capping (57) from the 3mm walnut sheet. Although a spare is provided, great care should
be taken when handling this component as it may be easily broken along the grain of the wood. The capping should be dry
fitted bearing in mind the following points:
1.
The capping should be fitted squarely to the top of the stern fascia and upper stern fascia surround, i.e. the lower
edges will extend equally beyond the lower edge of the stern fascia.
2.
The after face of the capping should be flush to the after face of the upper stern fascia surround.
3.
The forward face of the capping should be flush with the forward face of the stern fascia. It will also sit flush
against the after ends of the sheer rails and the captain's cabin roof planking.
When you are happy with the fit of the stern fascia capping, the lower edges will need to be trimmed bearing in mind the
following points:
1.
The after face of the capping will be trimmed back flush to the lower edge of the lower stern fascia surround
(Photo 054).
2.
The capping should not be trimmed 'square' (at 90 degrees to its forward or after face) but should instead be cut
so that, viewed from the side, the bottom edge runs parallel to the run of the wale and sheer rails (Photo 055).
The stern fascia should now be painted dull black and secured in place.
(Photo 056 & 057) Identify and paint matt (metal) black the deadeye strops (143), chainplates (144) and chainplate links (145)
from the 0.5mm brass etch sheet.
As shown on
Plan Sheet 3, 'Channels and
As shown on
Plan Sheet 3, 'Channels and
of the locating slots on the outboard edge of the channels. With the deadeye strops in position on the channels, a length of
1.5x1.5mm walnut should be glued along the outboard face of the channels, effectively 'locking' the deadeye strops into their
respective slots. At this stage, the deadeyes should be free enough to rotate within the deadeye strop.
Identify and paint 5 copper eyelets (180) matt (metal) black. Using
one 0.65mm hole should be drilled through the after end of each channel as shown (the port side main channel will require two
0.65mm holes as shown). Fix one copper eyelet into each of these holes with their 'eyes' running fore-and-aft and trim the
spigot flush to the bottom of the channel. These eyes will be used later during the rigging stages.
Each of the channels can now be fixed to the model at the locations previously determined when fitting the lower sheer rail
(page 29), they should be pinned and glued. The channels and the 1.5x1.5mm walnut strip should be painted dull black at a
time of your choosing.
Identify, paint matt (metal) black and remove the channel knees
'Channels and Chainplates'
flush against the upper face of the channel and the shorter edge flush against the hull side.
With the channels in place the chainplate links and chainplates should be attached as pairs and hooked into the lower end of the
deadeyes strops. Dome headed pins (183), painted matt (metal) black, should be used to secure the lower end of the chainplates
against the hull, directly onto the wale. A 0.65mm pilot hole should be drilled into the hull for each pin.
32
The Stern Fascia Capping
Photo 054
The Channels And Chainplates
Chainplates', position a 3.5mm deadeye within each of the deadeye strops.
Chainplates', the deadeye strops, complete with deadeyes, can be fitted into each
for reference, three knees should be fitted to each channel. They are fitted with their longer edge
Plan Sheet 3, 'Channels and Chainplates'
u
(126) from the 0.9mm brass etch sheet. Using
©
2006 JoTiKa Ltd.
Photo 055
for reference,
Plan Sheet 3,
Advertisement
