Lincoln Continental 1964 Shop Manual page 271

14-2
GROUP 14-STARTING SYSTEM
STARTER TROUBLE DIAGNOSIS GUIDE (Continued)
ENGINE WILL NOT CRANK
AND STARTER RELAY
DOES NOT CLICK
(Continued)
ENGINE WILL -NOT CRANK
BUT STARTER RELAY
CLICKS
STARTER SPINS BUT DOES
NOT CRANK THE ENGINE
ENGINE CRANKS SLOWLY
the starter neutral switch is defective
or out of adjustment.
5.
If
the engine does not crank in
Step 3, there are three possible de-
fects:
The wire from the battery terminal
of the ignition switch to the battery
If the relay clicks when the igni-
tion switch is operated, connect a
heavy jumper from the relay battery
terminal to the relay starter motor
terminal (Fig. 2, connection 2). If
the engine cranks, replace the relay.
If the engine does not crank, observe
the spark when connecting and dis-
connecting the jumper. If there is a
heavy spark, see Check Engine and
Starter Drive below. If the spark is
weak or if there is no spark at all,
proceed as follows:
CHECK CABLES AND
CONNECTIONS
If the spark at the relay is weak
when the jumper is connected, in-
spect the battery starter cables for
corrosion and broken conductors.
Check the ground cable to see if it
is broken or badly corroded. Inspect
all cable connections. Clean and
tighten them if necessary. Replace
any broken or frayed cables. If the
engine still will not crank, the
trouble is in the starter, and it must
be repaired or replaced.
CHECK ENGINE AND
STARTER DRIVE
If a heavy spark is obtained when
the jumper wire is connected, loosen
the starter mounting bolts to free the
starter pinion.
If the starter drive is locked, re-
move the starter from the engine,
and examine the starter drive pinion
If
the starter spins but will not
crank the engine, the starter drive is
worn or dirty and is sticking on the
Several causes inay result in this
symptom:
1. The battery may be low in
charge.
2. There may be excessive resist-
ance in the starter circuit.
3. The starter may be faulty.
{270)
terminal of the starter relay is loose
or broken.
The ignition switch starter ter-
minal is defective.
The wire from the starter switch
to the automatic transmission neutral
switch or from the neutral switch to
the starter relay is loose or broken.
for burred or worn teeth. Examine
the teeth on the flywheel ring gear
for burrs and wear. Replace the
pinion or the flywheel ring gear if
they are worn or damaged.
If the starter drive is not locked,
remove the starter from the engine,
and perform the no-load current test.
The starter should run freely.
If the current reading at no-load
speed is below specifications, the
starter has high resistance and should
be repaired.
If
the current reading is above
normal, and the starter is running
slower than it should at no-load, it
is probably due to tight or defective
bearings, a bent shaft, or the arma-
ture rubbing the field poles. A shorted
coil in the starter also causes the cur-
rent reading to be high. Disassemble
the starter and determine the cause.
Repair it if possible, or replace the
starter.
If the no-load current reading of
the starter is normal, install the
starter and remove all the spark
plugs, and attempt to crank the
engine with the starter.
If the engine cranks with the spark
plugs removed, water has probably
leaked into the cylinders causing a
hydrostatic lock. The cylinder heads
must be removed, and the cause of
internal coolant leakage eliminated.
If the engine will still not crank,
the engine is seized and cannot be
turned by the starter. Disassemble the
engine and repair or replace the de-
fective parts.
starter shaft, or is broken.
Clean or repair the starter drive
as required.
4. The engine may have excessive
friction.
CHECK BATTERY
Test the state of charge of the bat-
tery.
If
the battery is discharged, re-
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