Ford COUGAR 1968 Shop Manual page 753

PART 17-2
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Paint
acrylic lacquer @or enamel Q p a i n t .
Special sword point camel hair
brushes are used. These are available
in numerous sizes, however sizes # l i
#2, # 3 or # 4 will generally suffice.
The following steps should be fol-
lowed when performing this type of
repair.
1. Feather-edge the chipped or
scratched area with 360-grit abrasive
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paper.
2. Thoroughly agitate the repair
paint in its original container to assure
a good color match. The repair mater-
ial is usually applied as received with-
out thinning.
3. Select a touch-up brush of the
proper size suitable for covering the
touch-up brush.
5. If thinning is desired, transfer
a small amount of lacquer thinner
@
or enamel reducer @from its contain-
er to the lacquer or enamel on the
palette. Mix the two together until the
desired brushing consistency and color
are obtained. It is not recommended
that the paint be reduced prior to use.
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6. If the color being repaired is a
metallic color, it may be necessary to
add a small amount of aluminum tint
to lighten the color as brushed.
7. Carefully touch-up the chip or
scratch. Do not repeatedly brush over
the area as the paint starts to set up.
This practice will leave brush marks
and an uneven surface. Avoid building
up excessive film thickness as this
tends to accentuate the defect as well
as retard drying.
8. Allow sufficient time for the
material used to dry before handling.
Avoid the use of solvents like gasoline
or naphtha for cleanup after brush
touch-up as they could dissolve the
fresh paint.
area to be repaired.
4. Transfer a small amount of the
repair paint to a flat plate (palette,
steel panel, thin board) using the
REPAIR BY SANDING, POLISHING
AND BUFFING
Circled numbers refer to materials
and tools in Section 3.
One of the features of the acrylic
enamel, which is now standard for the
original exterior finish on all passen-
ger cars and some trucks, is its hard-
ness and polishability. Repair of many
paint defects which are only in the
surface can be accomplished without
repainting. Defects such as dirt, over-
spray, sags, minor scratches, dryspray,
orange peel, some off color, surface
damage (resulting from industrial
fallout or various fluids) and metal
finishing marks (left by files or discs)
can often be repaired by hand or ma-
chine polishing with a good abrasive
compound followed by machine buff-
ing; or by sanding, polishing and
buffing.
The polish repair procedure for
iinor defects is as follows:
1. Using a brush, apply a light
colored, medium grit, machine polish-
ing compounda)to the surface requir-
ing repair. The compound should be
applied only to a relatively small area
at a time so that it can be wheeled out
while still wet and provide maximum
cutting ability.
2. Polish out the defect using a
wheel@operating at 1700-1800 rpm
equipped with 2 polishing pads of
wool tufted construction.Q The pol-
ishing should be confined only to the
defective area.
3. Using a dry cotton wiper and
air blow-off, clean off the excess polish-
ing compound.
4. Buff out the polish wheel marks
using a wheel operating a t 1700-1800
rpm equipped with a clean lambswool
buffing disc or tie-on bonnet.
@
Use
the buffing disc dry without any abra-
sive compound. Buffing should extend
beyond the polished area to blend it
into the original finish.
If the defect is one which protrudes
above the surface (sag, chunk of dirt,
etc.), it may be necessary to level it
off before polishing. This can be ac-
complished as follows:
5. Using the sharp edge of a razor
blade or putty knife held at a right
angle to the painted surface, scrape
off the excess until the surface is
smooth.
6. Sand out the cutting marks with
600 grit abrasive paper, using water or
mineral spirits as a lubricant.
7. Remove the sand scratches with
hand rubbing compound@on a cotton
cloth formed in a ball. A wheel polish-
ing compound and polishing wheel as
outlined in Step 2 can also be used.
8. Clean off the excess rubbing or
polishing compound using a clean dry
cotton cloth and compressed air blow-
off.
9. Buff out the polishing marks
with a dry buffing wheel (Step4).
10. If the defect is one which ex-
tends below the surface (solder pit,
small chip or scratch in the topcoat)
the depression should first be built u
by filling it with acrylic lacquer
& J
applied with a sword point brush. The
lacquer is dried with a hot air blower
heat gun) or with radiant heat lamps
b
The excess lacquer is sanded with
600-grit paper, then hand polished and
buffed as in steps 7, 8 and 9.
REPAIR BY REPAINTING
CAUTION: OBSERVE THE
SAFETY PRECAUTIONS D I S
PLAYED O N THE MATERIAL
LABEL BY THE MANUFACTUR-
ER.
Circled numbers refer to materials
and tools in Section 3.
Defects which cannot be repaired by
the polishing procedures must be cor-
rected by repainting. The following
procedures cover the proper surface
preparation, the application of air dry
enamels or acrylic lacquer for repair
of exterior surfaces, and the applica-
tion of air dry nitrocellulose lacquers
or vinyl enamel for repair of interior
surfaces. These procedures also apply
to the painting of service replacement
parts which are normally supplied pre-
primed.
When performing paint re-
pairs, i t is important that all paint
materials such as primers, sealers,
topcoats, reducers, etc., are supplied
by the same paint source and used
according to their recommendations.
These materials are specifically
formulated to be used in conjunction
with each other to avoid incompati-
bility problems and provide good
performance.
SURFACE PREPARATION
Circled numbers refer to materials
and tools in Section 3.
1. Clean the surface thoroughly. If
the vehicle is extremely dirty, it should
be washed first with a good detergent
compound0to avoid bringing dirt in-
to the paint shop. Otherwise, wipe the
area to be repainted with a silicone
and wax remover@applied with clean
disposable rags or paper towels.
2. Examine the finish to determine
the next step. The amount of finish to
be removed depends on the extent and
depth of the defect and the condition
of the surface. If the surface is in
good
condition
and the defect is in the paint
film, remove the defective finish by
hand or with a mechanical (straight
line, orbital or rotary) sander using
360 grit abrasive. The use of water is
recommended to lubricate the abrasive
in all paint sanding operations as it
will provide a better finish and mini-
mize the amount of dirt generated.
Next hand sand the entire surface to
be painted, including edges and areas
adjacent to mouldings or ornaments
which have not been removed, with
400 grit paper. This will insure good
adhesion and a uniform gloss of the
repair topcoat. It is important that