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Page 128
Principal Dir Spectrum, DWS
2.
wave direction has an ambiguity direction of 180 degree, but is forced to be in the same interval as the mean
wave direction.
Orbital Ratio Spectrum, K(f)
depth
where:
C11(f), C22(f), and C33(f), are the cross-spectra of displacement in Vertical, East and North direction. k(f), is the wave
number and h is the water depth.
Wave Mean Direction,
The spreading angle is a measure of how wide the directional cone is over which the wave direction is distributed
(Kumar and Anoop, 2013).
Significant wave height is defined traditionally as the mean wave height (trough to crest) of the highest third of the
waves (H
). A modern definition of significant wave height is usually defined as four times the standard deviation of the
1/3
surface elevation. The symbol H
or H
; the difference in magnitude between the two definitions is only a few percent.
H
m0
1/3
Significant Wave Height, H
spectrum and is referred to as H
Wave Mean Period, T
m02
July 2019 – TD 304 OPERATING MANUAL – Doppler Current Profiler Sensor
(f)
is calculated based on the second order Fourier Coefficients. The principal
p
gives the ratio of vertical to horizontal motions corrected for the wavenumber and water
is the energy weighted mean direction over all frequency bins.
is usually used for that latter definition. The significant wave height may thus refer to
m0
is the mean of the highest third of the waves in a time-series computed on the basis of a
1/3
.
1/3
is the mean wave period calculated from the spectrum.
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