Cadillac 60 Series 1963 Shop Manual page 30

CHASSIS SUSPENSION
4-7
The following chart indicates acceptable com-
binations for adjusting front wheel camber.
Fig. 4-8 Loosening Camber Eccentric
soft mallet to free camber eccentric in knuckle. If
camber eccentric will not break loose, install a
standard nut half way on end of stud. Make certain
that lock nut is loose, then insert a 7/16 inch di-
ameter steel rod, approximately 20 inches long,
inside nut so that it rests .against stud. Tap rod
with a heavy hammer, Fig. 4-8, to break camber
eccentric loose.
Using Camber Adjusting Wrench, J-9231, Fig.
4-9, turn camber eccentric until +3/8° to -1/8°
camber is obtained on left wheel and +1/8° to
-3/8° camber is obtained on right wheel. P r e -
ferred setting is 0° on left, -1/4° on right. Left
wheel must have 1/4° to 1/2° more positive cam-
ber than right wheel to compensate for crowned
roads. Final position of joint stud should be in
rear portion of camber eccentric in order to keep
steering arm angle correct. Tighten lock not on
spherical joint stud to 60 foot-pounds.
Left Wheel Camber
+3/8°
+ 1/4°
+1/8°
0°
-1/8°
Acceptable Variation
in Right Wheel Camber
+1/8° to -1/8°
0° to -1/4°
-1/8° to -3/8°
-1/4° to -3/8°
-3/8°
Preferred For Service - Left Wheel 0°,
Right Wheel -1/4°
Fig. 4-9 Adjusting Camber
e. Toe-In Adjustment
The setting or adjustment of the front wheels
where the distance between them is less at the
front of the tire than at the rear is called "toe-
in". The purpose of toe-in is to counteract the
forces that: tend to make the front wheels toe out
while the car is traveling forward.
Toe-in should be measured in accordance with
instructions provided by the wheel alignment
equipment manufacturer.
Before checking toe-in, make certain that drag
link height is correct. See Section 5, Note 5. The
readings should be taken only when the front
wheels are in a straight ahead position and with
steering gear on its high spot. The correct setting
should be between 3/16 inch and 1/4 inch.
Toe-in is adjusted by turning the tie rod ad-
juster tubes at outer ends of each tie rod after
loosening clamp bolts. When turning adjuster
tubes, be careful not to turn tie rod ends so that
they bottom out, as seals could get pinched be-
tween stud and socket and become damaged. If
this happens the entire pivot must be replaced.
CAUTION: Do not use a pipe wrench or
heavy tool to free tie rod adjuster tubes if they
are seized, rusted or corroded. If necessary,
use penetrating oil or pry tie rod adjuster tubes
open with a flat bladed tool. Replace tie rod, ad-
juster tubes, or tie rod outer pivots if damaged.
Be sure to turn both adjuster tubes an equal
amount when adjusting toe-in so that relation of
steering gear high spot to straight ahead position
of front wheels will not be changed. (Both left and
right pivot ends have left hand threads.)
When adjustment has been completed according
to recommended specifications, tighten nuts on
clamp bolts to 20 foot-pounds.
NOTE: Be sure that open side of clamps are
pointed downward within 45° of vertical to pre-
vent possible interference with the frame on
maximum compression. Both the tie rod ends
and joint studs should be in a centralized posi-
tion before tightening clamps. Check relation-
ship between jaws of clamp and slot in adjuster
tube. Do not allow a corner of one to catch on a
corner of the other, Fig. 4-10. Turn clamp