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Butt Joints
All butt type joints require both workpieces to be perfectly square and straight-edged.
Glue Butt Joint: To perform a glue butt joint, both fences
are kept in-line and adjusted for a depth of cut.
The cuts on both workpieces are part-edge cuts which do
not reduce the stock width during the cutting procedure.
When shaping the two workpieces, one is fed top-side up;
the other is fed bottom-side up.
Tongued Joint: Similar to the glue joint, both fences are kept
in-line for the tongued joint and adjusted for a 1/4" depth of
cut with no reduction in stock width. With this joint, however,
both workpieces are fed with the same side up.
The leaf workpiece is shaped with a drop Leaf Bead cutter;
the table workpiece is shaped with a Drop Leaf Cove cutter.
With this type joint, the whole edge of both workpieces is
shaped, same side up, and allowance made for a 1/16"
reduction in width. Adjust the infeed fence to reduce the
workpiece width by 1/16", and adjust the outfeed fence to
compensate for stock removed.
Taper Cuts
CAUTION:
less in length on the side to be cut). Instead, use a miter gauge or special fixture to
avoid losing control of the workpiece.
Taper cuts can be made by offsetting the fences for the
amount of taper desired, or with a layout line on the stock
which can be made parallel to the infeed fence.
1. Start the cut by holding the stock against the infeed
fence and swinging it into contact with the outfeed fence
just past the cutterhead.
2. As the cut is started, transfer pressure to hold the
workpiece against the outfeed fence and continue feeding the workpiece through.
3. After the first cut the fences will have to be readjusted in order for the second cut (parallel
cut) and the final depth of cut to remain true with the taper.
Do not use the standard fence for short work (12 inches or
40
40
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