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that the slipper will slip before the diff.
Adjusting the Slipper should be done after the diff is properly adjusted. If you have just finished adjusting the
differential, loosen the slipper adjustment nut four full turns (e.g., 360 degrees x 4) to return the adjustment to the setting
originally described in the assembly instructions. To make the final adjustments, place your car on the racing surface and
give the car full throttle. The slipper should slip for one or two feet at the most. If the slipper slips for more than two feet,
you'll need to tighten the adjustment nut. If the slipper doesn't slip for at least one foot, back off the adjustment nut 1/8
of a turn and retry. If you can't hear the slipper when you punch the throttle, hold the front of the car with the rear wheels
still on the track and give the car full throttle. The car should push against your hand with reasonable force and the
slipper only slipping slightly. Don't expect the slipper to make up for poor driving or set-up. You still have to use the
throttle and maintain the shocks and chassis. The slipper will help you drive more comfortably and help accelerate of
corners and land jumps.
When the track is really rough, rutty, or has a lot of killer jumps, you may want to consider installing a Hydra-Drive
unit. When using the Hydra-Drive, the slipper adjustment should be set a bit looser so that the spur gear is easier to
rotate while holding the right rear tire. Use the same method of checking adjustment on the Hydra-Drive as you would
on the standard friction slipper. Do not run the Hydra-Drive too loose; it will build up heat and eventually damage the
seals. The standard fluid should be used most of the time in the Hydra-Drive. This kit has a different type of slipper that
cannot be used with the Hydra-Drive as it is currently assembled. However, a Hydra-Drive unit can be fit to the shaft by
replacing the gear and outside aluminum slipper back plate with the Hydra-Drive spur gear, gear plate, Hydra-Drive
unit, spring, etc. A Hydra-Drive conversion kit is also available (part #A3112).
The Most Sensitive Adjustments , and the most used by the Team Losi race team, are the number of washers
under the front camber link ball studs and the anti-squat. See these two sections and try to familiarize yourself with the
way that these adjustments affect the handling of the Triple-X.
Ride Height is an adjustment that affects the way your car jumps, turns, and goes through bumps. To check the ride
height, drop one end (front or rear) of the car from about a 5-6 inch height onto a flat surface. Once the car settles in to
a position, check the height of that end of the car in relationship to the surface. To raise the ride height, lower the shock
adjuster nuts on the shocks evenly on the end (front or rear) of the car you are working on. To lower the ride height, raise
the shock adjuster nuts. Both left and right nuts should be adjusted evenly.
You should start with the front ride height set so that the front suspension arms are level with the surface. Occasion-
ally, you may want to raise the front ride height to get a little quicker steering reaction, but be careful as this can also
make the car flip over more easily. The rear ride height should be set so that the car comes to a rest at a height that is
right in between having the arms level and the dogbones level with the surface. Every driver likes a little different feel so
you should try small ride height adjustments to obtain the feel you like. We have found that ride height is really a minor
adjustment. This should be one of the last adjustments after everything else has been dialed in. Do not use ride height
adjustment as a substitute for a spring rate. If your car needs a softer or firmer spring, change the spring. Do not think
that simply moving the shock nuts will change the stiffness of the spring; it won't!
Rear Hub Camber Location is best set according the settings described in this manual. You should start with the
outer hole in the hub. The outer hole will tend to make the car feel a bit stiffer. This results in the car accelerating
straighter and also makes it a bit eassier to line up for jumps. Moving to the inner hole will typically make the car go
through bumps better. The inner hole may also give the feeling of more steering. This steering generally comes from the
rear end though. What this means is that the rear end of the car may swing a bit more — at times even sliding more.
Rear Camber Link Length can be another useful adjustment. It is virtually impossible to make a blanket statement
for exactly how the length of the camber link will affect the handling under all conditions. The following is our experi-
ence with how the length of the camber link will typically affect the handling of the Triple-X. A longer rear camber link
will usually result in more rear traction. With a longer link, the car can start to drive more square, or point-to-point. This
can make it difficult to carve corners at high speed. A shorter rear camber link will generally result in more steering from
the rear of the car due to increased chassis roll. This can make it easier to change directions quicker, but can cause the
rear of the car to roll around if the link is too short. A shorter rear link will usually go through bumps a bit better than a
long link as well.
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