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MAINTENANCE
BEFORE CARRYING OUT ANY SERVICING OR MAINTENANCE, DISCONNECT THE MACHINE FROM THE
CHANGING TYRES
Eventually the rubber tyres on the bandsaw wheels will wear due to the constant contact of the sharp
teeth of the blade. Lift the edge of the tyre with a small screwdriver and the tyre can be worked off the
wheel easily. We recommend that all three tyres be changed at the same time.
BLADE GUIDES
Blade guides should be inspected regularly for wear or chipping. When replacing guides replace all
guides at the same time, both upper and lower.
BEARINGS
All bearings used in the construction of your bandsaw and its motor are sealed and lubricated for life.
CLEANING
Accumulated dust and chips should be removed from inside the bandsaw frequently. Remove the
front cover and use a brush or vacuum cleaner. At the end of every work session, clean sawdust away
from the motor vents.
TIPS ON USING YOUR BANDSAW
For all cutting operations the upper blade guard should be adjusted to be just clear the work being
cut. Not only does this provide the best safety for the operator, but it also brings the blade guides
closer to the work giving more accurate results and easier control.
Use both hands to feed the workpiece in to the blade. The work must be held flat on the table at all
times to prevent binding of the blade. Use a steady even pressure just sufficient to keep the blade
cutting.
Always use a rip fence or mitre guide where possible to eliminate any sideways slip of the work. This is
most important when the table is tilted to an angle.
Always plan your work ahead. The tradesmans' rule is "measure twice, cut once". It is best to finish a
cut in one continuous operation, but frequent backtracking may be necessary.
Turn off the motor and allow the blade to come to a complete stop before backing the blade out of the cut.
Remember that the blade removes material during the cut. This gap created by the blade is called
the 'kerf', and must be allowed for when cutting to exact sizes. Plan your cut so that the kerf is the
scrap side of the lines you wish to cut. If necessary, allow a little more for finish sanding.
RIP SAWING
This term refers to the cutting of the timber with the grain, rather than at a right angles to the grain. You
can rip wood freehand to a previously drawn line, but best results are obtained by using the rip fence.
If the table is set at a level angle, set the rip fence to the left hand side of the blade, allowing you to
use your right hand to hold the work firmly against the fence. The width of cut indicator on the front of
the work table shows the distance between the blade and the right hand edge of the timber.
When cutting a bevel rip, with the table tilted at any angle up to 45
side of the blade if the width of the workpiece allows it.
With the fence on the 'downhill' side of the table, it will help support the work against slip. The width of
cut indicator shows the distance between the blade and the rip fence.
CROSS CUTTING
This term refers to cutting timber at right angles to the grain. This type of cut can also be made freehand,
but the mitre guide is used to ensure accurate results. The mitre guide can be adjusted to a 45
to produce mitre cuts, or with the table tilted as well, compound mitre cuts.
Make sure the work is held firmly against the table and against the face of the mitre guide. Be careful
to keep your fingers away from the blade, particularly at the end of the cut.
POWER SUPPLY
15
O
, set the rip fence to the right hand
O
angle
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