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ASSEMBLING THE BOARDS
Insert tenon board at "X" mark (Fig. H19) into dado's "X" mark
(Fig. H20) and slide in place. A blow with a rubber mallet may
be needed for proper fitting.
FITTING THE JOINT
In the event that adjustments need to be made to achieve the
desired joint fit, further instructions are given below:
TIGHTNESS: For joints that are deemed too tight, a shallower
bit depth is needed to produce a looser joint. Decrease the bit
depth accordingly and repeat the process using new boards.
LOOSENESS: For joints that are deemed too loose, a deeper
bit depth is needed to produce a tighter joint. Increase the bit
depth accordingly and repeat the process using new boards.
NOTE: Refer to the label on the front of the router bit depth pod
located on the top of your jig for further guidance in tightening
or loosening the joint.
TEAROUT: If you are getting excessive tearout (ragged edges),
clamp scrap boards to both sides of either workpiece.
NOTE: If you clamp scrap boards before making your cuts,
make sure the scrap to the left edge of the tenon board is the
same width as the scrap (GG) Fig. H21 to the right edge of
the dado board. This is to make sure the left edge of the tenon
board and the right edge of the dado board are positioned the
same distance from the ends of the template before the cuts
are made.
CENTERING THE TENON: The tenon (CC) (side view at Fig.
H22) might need to be centered on its board (DD), as shown.
This is purely for aesthetic reasons; it will not significantly
affect the strength of the joint.
To center the tenon (CC) on the board (DD) (as shown in Fig.
H22), the C2 template stops will need to be adjusted. To do
this:
1.
Loosen the nut (EE) Fig H23 on the right side and move
the post (FF) backward if the tenon is positioned toward
the front of the board when in place on the jig.
2.
Move the post forward if the tenon is located to the back
of the board as you face it.
3.
Tighten nut (EE) after positioning the post.
Fig. H19
GG
Fig. H21
Fig. H20
CC
DD
Fig. H22
EE
FF
Fig. H23
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