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12. Re-install stabilizer bar.
13. Set router onto stabilizer bar with bit between bar
and the workpiece and make the cut.
NOTE: If you have separated a finger set, be sure to cut
only between the angled walls, not between the straight
ones. (Fig. E9)
NOTE: Move router slowly from left to right, taking small
cuts and multiple passes. Your final cut should resemble
Fig. E10.
14. Remove pinboard (L) Fig. E10.
CUTTING TAILBOARD
1.
Remove stabilizer bar (H) Fig. E11 and remove
template (I).
2.
Put horizontal scrap (X) into the jig.
3.
Put the template back onto the jig so the yellow "B
Tails" label (V) is located at the upper left side.
4.
Slide vertical tailboard (drawer side) (W) in up
against the lowered template (I) (shown out of the
way for clarity). Be sure the tailboard is oriented with
the "outside surface" facing the base. Slide a piece
of horizontal scrap (X) into place behind the vertical
piece to help reduce tearout.
NOTE: "Outside surface" refers to the outer side of the box
or drawer the board is used on.
5.
Be sure vertical board (W) is lined up flush against
the left edge guide (J).
6.
Use the same router bit, template guide and router bit
depth that was used to cut the pins.
Before making any cuts, be sure you
read your router owner's manual for safe operating
instructions.
NOTE: If desired, before making the cut, create 1/2" x
1/2" wood spacers (DD) Fig. E12 and insert them
between adjacent fingers. (Place them between the
square corners (EE), where you are not cutting.) This
will keep the router from cutting into the tails and
removing excess material.
7.
Replace the stabilizer bar.
8.
Climb cut from right to left slowly along face of the
board, then clean out the proper areas moving slowly
from left to right. Be sure to cut only between the
rounded edges, not between the square ones. (Fig.
E12)
9.
The final cut should look like cut shown in Fig. E13.
Cut in here
Do not cut here
Fig. E9
X
W
J
Cut in here
DD
EE
Do not cut here
Fig. E12
Cut in here
V
Fig. E11
Fig. E13
L
Fig. E10
I
H
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