Table of Contents
Advertisement
If you miss a right angle by a little, don't worry. Since you've only soldered two pins
down, it's easy enough to reheat those two pins, and move the LM3886 up and down a
bit until it sits properly. Once the LM3886 mounting looks good, solder the rest of the
pins.
Carefully inspect your soldering. Make sure that all pins of the LM3886 are soldered,
and that there are no solder bridges between pins. Inspect the board from both the top
and the bottom!
Finally, if the result comes up a bit away from a right angle, don't worry. The mounting
system is compliant enough that this won't be a problem.
Final Inspection of the Circuit Board
After you've taken a break, look over your completed circuit board(s) one more time.
Looking on the component side, double check:
1. polarity (banded end) of D1 and D4 matching the banded end on the silk screen.
2. polarity (flat end, or molded bar end) of LEDS D2 and D3, placed toward the
outside edge of the board.
3. polarity of C1 (minus sign away from the indicated plus sign on the silk screen).
4. polarity of C6 (minus sign away from the indicated plus sign on the silk screen).
5. polarity of C7 (minus sign close to the edge of the board).
If you get one of these polarities wrong, there is a good chance that the amplifier won't
work, or there will be damage when you power it up.
Look at the solder side of the board. Make sure that:
1. all component leads are soldered (it's easy to forget one or two, and that will
cause either unreliable operation, or no operation at all!)
2. there are no solder bridges between pads which should be isolated. Solder bridges
may stop the amplifier from working correctly.
Page 23 of 32
Advertisement
Table of Contents
