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parately: every component which is to be a different colour
should first be prepared, then trimmed carefully to fit on the
model, then painted, and only fixed to the model when the
paint is dry.
If any part has to be painted more than one colour, the
joints must be masked out using clear adhesive tape or
PVC tape - don't use paper masking tape! The tape must
be removed again when the paint is just touch-dry; do not
allow the paint to dry completely before peeling it off.
We suggest that you copy the colour scheme shown in the
kit box illustration.
Boatstand
The first step is to construct the boatstand from parts 1 to
3, so that your model boat is well supported on the work-
bench during the construction process. The boatstand
should be glued with white glue. Line the hull contact
surfaces with felt or foam to avoid scratching the model's
surfaces.
Hull
Installing the power plant and rudder system
Note: the ready-made vacuum-moulded ABS hull should
not be trimmed to final size until the deck has been fitted.
This leaves an integral flange round the hull which gives
the moulding greater rigidity, making it much easier to ins-
tall the power system.
Use UHU plus acrylit or DELUXE Fusion Acrylit for all
glued joints involving the hull, e.g. ABS to wood.
Drill the holes at the marked points in the hull 4 for the
stern tube (6 mm), the rudder system (9 mm) and the an-
chor tube (7 mm). We recommend to drill the holes smaller
first and enlarge the holes with a round file, that the ABS
material does not split.
Attach the geared motor 6 to the bulkhead 5 using the so-
ckethead screws 7 and washers 8. Ensure that the motor
is mounted on the correct side of the bulkhead. File an
area on the top of the motor case perfectly clean, so that
the suppressor capacitor can be soldered easily. Attach the
suppressor capacitors to the motor.
The power wires 36 should be soldered to the motor termi-
nals at this early stage.
Solder the grease tube 10 to the stern tube 9 as shown on
the plan. Drill a 3 mm Ø hole into the stern tube through
the grease tube once the joint has cooled down. Remove
all drilling swarf. Fit the locknut 12 and the propeller 13 on
the shaft 11.
Fit the prepared stern tube through the hole in the hull from
the inside, then slip the propeller shaft into the tube from
the rear. Fit the tube support 14 under the stern tube, and
check that it rests on the support over its full length without
being under tension. You may need to adjust the hole in
the hull slightly.
The motor can now be installed. Fit and screw the prepa-
red coupling onto the prop shaft and the shaft of the motor
and bring motor and shaft assembly into allignment. If you
like, you can allign the coupling with 3 pcs of stripwood and
tape, that it remains stiff. Measure the distance between
the stern and the bulkhead, then glue the bulkhead and
stern tube in the hull, using plenty of UHU plus acrylit to
form a fillet round the joints.
Fit the two O-rings 18 and the brass bush 19 on the shaft
of the Kort nozzle 17; note that the rings must fit in the
annular channels. Slide the Kort nozzle and bush into the
hole in the hull from the underside, holding it at a slight
angle to the rear.
Fit the lower bearing 20 on the bottom spigot of the Kort
nozzle and align the system so that its underside is in line
with the keel. Check that the propeller is in the centre of
the Kort nozzle when viewed from the rear. Glue the lower
bearing 20 in this position, and secure it carefully while the
glue is hardening, packing up the Kort nozzle to keep it in
place.
Now invert the hull and apply a generous fillet of UHU plus
acrylit round the brass bush 19 where it meets the hull.
Check that the Kort nozzle still swivels smoothly.
Push the collet 22 into the steering lever 21 and fit the so-
ckethead screw 23. Fit the completed steering lever on the
rudder shaft and tighten the screw.
If you intend to install a battery other than the lead-acid or
seven-cell Nickel pack recommended, you may need to
adjust the opening in the mounting plate 24. These inst-
ructions describe the installation of the lead-acid battery
shown on the plan.
RC installation
Note: The receiver battery cradle 37, the receiver battery
38 and the switch 41 are also no longer required.
Glue the stiffening frame 24a to the underside of the moun-
ting plate 24. Glue the plate 24 in the hull, and weight it
down until the glue has set hard.
Hold the servo mount 26 on the servo mounting plate 25,
drill suitable pilot-holes, and fix it in place using the screws
27 and nuts 28. Alternately you can glue the servo directly
onto the servo mount.
Note the angle of the servo mount as shown in the plan
view, and take care to maintain it accurately.
The prepared servo mount assembly can now be glued in
the hull in the position shown in the plan view. Fix the servo
29 in the mount when the glue has set hard.
The steering pushrod is made up from parts 30 - 32. Cut
the steel steering pushrod 31 to approximate length, and
solder a clevis 30 to one end. Screw the second clevis
onto the threaded coupler 32. Connect the soldered clevis
to a hole in the steering lever as shown, and connect the
clevis and threaded coupler to the servo output arm, after
cutting it down as shown on the plan. Cut the pushrod to
exact length, then solder the cut end in the socket of the
threaded coupler.
Final adjustment of the pushrod is carried out at a later
stage, as part of the check of the working systems.
© Krick Modelltechnik, Germany, Stand 03.2018
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