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Simon Tilts Assembly Guide
Introduction
Simon Tilts is a memory game very similar to Simon Says, but instead of
pressing buttons, the player is challenged to rotate the device in a specific
pattern. It comes as a PTH soldering kit, and it's up to you to solder it all
together! You can buy the complete kit here.
If you're new to soldering, the Simon Tilts PTH Kit is a great place to start.
This assembly guide will take you through each component in the kit and
show you how to solder it into place.
The assembled Simon Tilts PTH Kit
Suggested Reading
If you'd like more general knowledge about PTH soldering, then we suggest
checking out these following other tutorials:
• How to Solder - Through-hole Soldering
• Decoding Resistor Markings
• Diode and LED Polarity
• Electronics Assembly - Washing
• Video - SparkFun Infrared Sensor Overview
Necessary tools and supplies
• Soldering Iron
• Solder
• Cutters
Suggested additional tools and supplies
• Safety Glasses
• Flux Pen
• Solder Wick
Page 1 of 20

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Summary of Contents for sparkfun Simon Tilts Series

  • Page 1 • How to Solder - Through-hole Soldering • Decoding Resistor Markings • Diode and LED Polarity • Electronics Assembly - Washing • Video - SparkFun Infrared Sensor Overview Necessary tools and supplies • Soldering Iron • Solder • Cutters Suggested additional tools and supplies •...
  • Page 2 Page 2 of 20 • Scrubbing brush (an old toothbrush works fine) • Dionized water for cleaning (or you can get away with tap water) QuickStart - Your First Component Locate the 10KΩ Resistor. It has a specific pattern of stripes on it: BROWN, BLACK, ORANGE, GOLD.
  • Page 3 Page 3 of 20 Slightly bend the legs outward to hold it in place. Flip the board over. Hold the soldering iron’s “Sweet Spot” so it touches both the leg and the metal ring. Hold for 2 seconds. Feed solder into the joint. First, pull away the solder.
  • Page 4 Page 4 of 20 Your solder joints should look like this - a tiny volcano. Clip off any excess legs. The Other Resistors Now that you’ve successfully soldered in the 10K resistor, you’re ready to begin soldering in in the remaining resistors. Note, before soldering in each resistor, double check you have the correct value by ensuring that the color markings are correct.
  • Page 5 Page 5 of 20 Using the same methods you learned with your first component (the 10KΩ resistor), solder into place, and trim the extra lead length. Next, locate the 330Ω Resistors (x3). They each have this pattern of strips on them: ORANGE, ORANGE, BROWN, GOLD. A 330Ω...
  • Page 6 Page 6 of 20 BOTTOM: Capacitors Locate the two 0.1uF capacitors. These look a little different than resistors. They have two leads than come down off the bottom of the component, and they have the markings “104” on them. (also note, the bottom side may have some other letters, like “K5M”) They look like this: Locate their positions on the PCB:...
  • Page 7 Page 7 of 20 The Microcontroller Locate the Microcontroller. This component is polarized, which means we need to take extra care to place it in the board properly. Notice the notch: Now locate the position on the PCB. Again, notice a similar notch symbol in the PCB white ink: Taking care to align the notch properly, place the ATmega328 into the PCB.
  • Page 8 Page 8 of 20 IR Emitters and Detectors Careful, these next 6 parts are polarized and need to be placed into the PCB properly. To learn more about polarization, please check out this other tutorial: Diode and LED Polarity Locate the IR emitter and detector pairs: There should be 6 total pieces.
  • Page 9 When you’re done soldering all 6 into place, your PCB should look like this: To learn more about how IR emitters and detectors work, check out this video: SparkFun Infrared Sensor Overview Buzzer and Switches Locate the buzzer and slide switches:...
  • Page 10 Page 10 of 20 Locate the positions on the PCB: Place your components in the PCB. Flip it over and solder into place. When you are done, you’re PCB should look like this: Battery Clips Locate the 4 Battery Clips: Locate the 4 positions on the PCB:...
  • Page 11 Page 11 of 20 Note, these parts must be soldered in so the back sides are facing out. If placed incorrectly, the batteries will not fit. Ensure they are flush and that the back sides are facing out: Solder into place. When you are done, your board should look like this: 6 Leds Careful, these next 6 parts are polarized and need to be placed into the PCB properly.
  • Page 12 Page 12 of 20 Locate the 6 LED positions on the PCB. Note: There are two LED positions in the middle of the PCB. When soldering the outside LEDs, do not solder them flush to the board. Leave a ¼" inch gap: This will enable you to bend the LEDs outward like so: When you solder in the two center LEDs, make sure that one of them goes up, and one goes down:...
  • Page 13 Page 13 of 20 If you soldered in an LED backwards by mistake, have no fear. Visit the Troubleshooting LEDs section to find out how to easily correct it. Congratulations! You have completed the soldering portion of assembly. You’re almost done! Cleaning Before we move on to the final assembly steps, this is a good time to clean your board.
  • Page 14 Page 14 of 20 Locate the tilt arm positions on the PCB. Note, there are dashed lines indicating the outline of the tilt arm. This shows you which direction the tilt arm should face: When you snap them into place, ensure that they are flush with the PCB: With all three in place, it should look like this: You’re very close now! Just snap the batteries in and turn it on! Ensure you correctly align the “+”...
  • Page 15: Troubleshooting Leds

    Page 15 of 20 Turn it on and watch a pattern of LEDs blink. When it begins cycling through each LED in a fast pattern, it is in “waiting mode”. It is now waiting for you to tilt the game in any direction. This is similar to how, in Simon Says, the game will wait for you to press a button to begin.
  • Page 16 Page 16 of 20 Each jumper has a small trace connecting the middle pad to the default polarity setting. The small trace is sometimes difficult to see, but it is a thin stripe of metal that should show up as a lighter color red. Using a hobby knife (aka x-acto knife), cut the default traces: Using your soldering iron, close a jumper between the middle pad and the other outside pad:...
  • Page 17 Page 17 of 20 In this approach, we are using our Tilt Sensors. Each of these has a little metal ball inside that closes or opens a switch between the two leads. In this way of using a falling ball within a cylinder, it is very similar to our final Tilt Arm approach.
  • Page 18 Page 18 of 20 There was one problem with using a breakout board: the sensor itself is not a PTH part. Although we could include a footprint on the PCB to mate with the accelerometer’s pinout, we were hesitant to use this approach. Adding one more “black box”...
  • Page 19 To see all of the Kits we offer on our website, checkout our Kits Category on the SparkFun website. If you’re interested to learn more about writing code, a good place to start is by completing the example circuits in the SparkFun Inventors Kit.
  • Page 20 RedBoard SIK. This means that if you wanted to, you could use the skills learned in the SIK to modify your Simon Tilts. For example, you could change the way the game plays or use it for an entirely different project! https://learn.sparkfun.com/tutorials/simon-tilts-assembly-guide?_ga=1.40174434.11809772... 8/5/2016...

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