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3B3: Anchoring
Anchoring can be accomplished safely with a minimum of fuss if you are prepared. Or, if you
are not ready, it can be stressful and dangerous for you or the boat.
Before attempting to anchor, select an anchorage with a soft bottom such as sand, mud, or
gravel, if possible. Look at the charts and cruising guides for tips on good locations. Then, choose the
spot in the anchorage where you have room to "swing" on the anchor without disturbing other boats.
Remember, responsibility for leaving room goes to each successive boat to arrive, for the first boat has
priority in the anchorage!
Here in the Northwest, because of the deep waters, all-chain rodes and small bays, we anchor a
little differently than in the Gulf of Mexico or Carribean, for example. First, except in severe weather we
use anchor chain scopes of only 4-to-1 or 5-to-1. For example, in water that is 40 feet at low tide in the
typical anchorage, we might use 160 feet of chain unless the weather was to be gale force or greater
winds.
Second, because of the small bays and steep bottoms, we often rig a shore line from the stern
of the boat to shore. The best example of this would be at Todd Inlet at Butchart Gardens: Here is a
bay that can accommodate 8 - 10 boats, yet it is only about 150' wide and 200' long! Boats attach their
bows to the mooring buoys or, in a few cases, anchor; and then their sterns are secured to rings
provided in the steep cliffs overlooking the bay. Boats are thus perhaps only 15-20' apart, side to side.
Third, boats often will "raft" side by side in busy marinas, although this is not very common.
Fourth, courteous boaters will call vessels coming into busy bays and offer to let them raft to the
same buoy, if signs on the buoys do not limit usage to only one boat depending upon length.
Anchoring safely requires two persons, one at the helm maneuvering the boat and one on the
bow operating the anchor. Putting the bow of the boat over the spot where the anchor is to be placed
after checking the depth on the depth sounder, the windlass foot-switches are used to lower the anchor
slowly toward (but not onto) the bottom, by watching the chain markings or on the remote.
The chain is measured by marks on the chain as follows:
10'
Red-Yellow-Red
50'
Yellow
150'
Yellow
250'
Yellow
350'
Yellow
When the anchor is about to reach bottom, the boat is backed away by putting the engines into
reverse for 5 seconds: eddies from the chain indicate motion. Resume lowering the anchor while
drifting backwards (watch the eddies and add another burst or reverse if necessary!) until the desired
amount of chain is out. Stop paying out chain. Engage reverse for five seconds at a time until the chain
starts to pull straight off the bow toward the anchor. A straight chain indicates a "set" anchor!
NEVER pull on the chain for more than five seconds, and never at any engine RPM
other than idle! A good rule of thumb is to keep the speed when backing down
less than one knot. Putting the boat's weight plus its horsepower on the chain
forcefully even at idle will bend the anchor and/or damage the mooring gear!
100'
200'
300'
390'
Section 3B: Maneuvering Suggestions 3.6
Red
Red
Red
Red-Yellow-Red (Total Length 400'!)
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