GRAUPNER BERNHARD GRUBEN model boat Assembly Instructions Manual page 50

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Glue the three reinforcements (part 36) to the underside of the forecastle deck (part 35), then cut out the
rectangular openings in the deck. Prepare the skylights (part 37) by gluing them together in pairs so that
the upper rectangles fit accurately in the openings previously cut in the deck. The lower rectangle serves
as the gluing surface. The skylights are glued in place on the underside of the deck, but not until the boat
has been completely painted.
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The forecastle deck can now be glued in the hull. When making this joint ensure that the rubbing strakes
lie flush, and that the deck is not glued in place at an angle.
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Glue the four reinforcements (part 39) to the underside of the main deck (part 38). The forward trans-
verse reinforcement should coincide exactly with the upper step. The main deck can now be glued in the
hull, once again ensuring that the rubbing strakes butt up neatly, and that the joint between the stern wall
and the deck is accurate. NOTE: at this juncture it is very important to check that the superstructure (part
217) is an accurate fit; note in particular the stated height difference between the two decks.
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Cut the reinforcement for the stern cradle (part 40) from the spruce strip supplied. Glue the reinforce-
ment under the support plate for the stern cradle on the underside of the deck.
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Cut out the lower four pieces of the rubbing strakes (part 41) and glue them to the hull. NOTE: the
angled surface of the curved pieces should face the stern flaps. Add the sprayrail (part 42) and the
extension of the upper rubbing strake (part 43).
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Cut out the stern cradle (part 44) and trim it to fit neatly in the hull. Glue the reinforcing frame (part 45) to
the underside of the cradle. Prepare the tow cable guides (part 46) from the brass tube supplied, and
glue them in the cradle. NOTE: it is important to curve the cable guides as neatly and evenly as possible,
and to chamfer the edges so that there are no sharp edges or points on which the cable could chafe.
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Glue one end of a roller axle (part 48) to the roller bracket (part 47), then slip a roller (part 49) on the axle
and fit the second roller bracket. Repeat the procedure with the other rollers, then glue these assemblies
in the stern cradle.
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Glue the daughter boat lift (part 50) in the stern cradle using cyano. NOTE: at the same time apply a
drop of cyano to the spring in the slide to prevent it falling out.
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Use double-sided adhesive tape to fix the sailwinch (part 51) to the reinforcing frame. NOTE: ensure that
the cable drum is located exactly in line with the cable guides.
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Cross over the pull-cable (part 52) and thread it into the holes in the slide (but don't glue it at this stage).
Route the cable round the outer brass rods, then into the cable guides. Run the sailwinch to one of its
end-positions, push the slide to the end-point corresponding to the cable drum position, and thread the
cable into the drum. Wind the free cable end at least five times round the other drum, noting the winding
direction stated on the plan. Secure the cable ends with the cable drum retaining screw. Rotate the cable
drum by hand, and you will immediately detect whether the directions of winding in and out are correct.
Adjust the potentiometer on the sailwinch to set it to its minimum winding travel. Connect the radio
control system, and test the end-points of the winding system: rotate the pot on the winch until you have
almost reached its end-points; further fine-tuning can be carried out using your transmitter's servo travel
adjustment facility. Ensure that the system really does run to its end-points, but not beyond them. Minor
discrepancies are absorbed by the foam in the double-sided adhesive tape. When you are confident that
everything fits properly, apply a drop of cyano to secure the pull-cord in the slide.
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Fit the roller pivot (part 54) on each of the roller brackets (part 53), and slip the roller axle (part 55) into
the brackets in turn. Make up the rollers (part 56) and glue the outer rings (part 57) to the outside of
them. Fit the roller in the bracket, then add the second bracket. Bend the projecting ends of the roller
axle over at right-angles. Ensure that the rollers rotate freely. When you are confident that all is well, glue
this assembly in the stern cradle.
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The stern flap can now be fitted using the eight retaining screws (part 58). IMPORTANT: before you
place the boat in water, you must apply narrow strips (approx. 3 mm wide) of double-sided adhesive tape
(e.g. carpet tape) to the support surfaces where they meet the stern wall, to prevent water penetrating
the hull. We also recommend that you apply tape to the outside of this transition area to seal it. NOTE:
the eddies which occur between the stern flap and the stern wall draw water above the waterline.
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The principle of roller construction is also applied to the two lateral guide rollers, which are assembled
from parts 59 to 62. NOTE: ensure that there is sufficient space between the rollers, so that the daughter
boat can easily slide out of the cradle.
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Cut out the stern flap (part 63), leaving it oversize initially. NOTE: leave a margin about 3 mm wide all
round; the excess is sanded away once the inner frame has been fitted. Cut out the areas where the
stern fairing flooding slots are located. Glue the two side wall reinforcements (part 64) in the stern flap.
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The next step is to assemble the inner bulkhead framework (part 64). Adjust the frame until it is an easy
fit in the stern flap. Screw the two swivel pushrod connectors (part 66) to the frame, then glue it to the
stern flap, followed by the hinge sleeves (part 67). IMPORTANT: ensure that all the hinge sleeves are
exactly in line.
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Glue the covers (part 68) to the top of the stern flap.
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At this point the stern flap can finally be trimmed to fit accurately. Sand a radius in the underside of the
GRAUPNER GmbH & Co. KG D-73230 KIRCHHEIM/TECK GERMANY
No liability for printing errors. Technnical modifications reserved. #0060384
50
04/2009