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Turn the saw ON and keep one finger ready to push
8.
the STOP button. The blade should run smooth with
no vibrations.
9.
When the blade has reached full speed, perform a
test cut with a scrap piece of wood.
10. If the cut is satisfactory, repeat the cut with the
actual workpiece.
When making dado cuts with a standard blade, use a
ripping-type blade to reduce motor overloading and blade
wear. Also, you will need to remove the blade guard/dust
hood, but leave the riving knife installed, making sure
that its height is slightly lower than the blade.
1.
DISCONNECT THE SAW FROM POWER!
2.
Mark the width of the dado cut on the workpiece.
Include marks on the edge of the workpiece so the
cut path can be aligned when the workpiece is lying
on the table.
3.
Raise the blade up to the desired depth of cut (depth
of dado channel). When cutting deep dadoes, take
more than one pass to reduce the risk of kickback.
4.
If dadoing across the workpiece, use the miter gauge
to support the workpiece, and align the blade to cut
one of the dado sides. DO NOT use the fence in com-
bination with the miter gauge.
5.
If dadoing the length of a workpiece, align the blade
to cut one of the dado sides as shown in Figure
6.
Reconnect the saw to the power source and turn the
saw
. Allow the blade to reach full speed.
7.
Perform the cutting operation.
8.
Re-adjust the fence so the blade is aligned with the
other edge of the dado channel (Figure
Be sure to keep the cuts within your marks;
otherwise, the dado will be too big.
9.
Continue making cuts toward the center of the dado
until the dado is complete.
The danger of kickback increases
relative to the depth and width of a
cut. Reduce the risk of kickback by
making multiple passes to achieve the
desired depth of cut. Failure to follow
these warnings could result in serious
personal injury.
Figure
.
Figure
).
-46-
. Single-blade dado first cut.
. Single-blade dado second cut.
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