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TROUBLESHOOTING GUIDE
SMOKE SMELL COMING BACK INTO THE HOME
Possible Causes:
There is a leak in the vent pipe
system.
The gasket on the combustion
blower has gone bad.
STOVE SHUTS OFF AND THE #3 LIGHT FLASHES
Possible Causes:
The hopper is out of pellets.
The air damper is too far open
for a low feed setting.
The
burnpot
is
not
completely to the rear of the
firebox.
The burnpot holes are blocked.
The
air
inlet,
the
chambers, or exhaust system has
a partial blockage.
The hopper safety switch has
failed or hopper is open.
The auger is jammed.
The auger motor has failed.
The Proof of Fire (POF) thermodisc
has malfunctioned.
The high limit thermodisc has
tripped or is defective
The fuse on the control board has
blown.
Possible Remedies:
Inspect all vent pipe connections. Make sure they are sealed with RTV silicone that has
a temperature rating of 500°F or higher. Also, seal joints with UL-181-AP foil tape.
Also, make sure the square to round adapter piece on the combustion blower has been
properly sealed with the same RTV.
Inspect both gaskets on the combustion blower to make sure they are in good shape.
Possible Remedies: (Unplug stove first when possible)
Refill the hopper
If burning on the low setting, you may need to close the damper all the way (push the
knob in so it touches the side of the stove).
pushed
Make sure that the air intake collar on the burnpot is touching the rear wall of the
firebox.
Remove the burnpot and thoroughly clean it.
interior
Follow all cleaning procedures in the maintenance section of the owner's manual.
When operating the unit, be sure the hopper lid is closed so that the hopper safety
switch will activate. Check the wires leading from the hopper safety switch to the
control panel and auger motor for secure connections. Use a continuity tester to test
the hopper safety switch, replace if necessary.
Start emptying the hopper. Then remove the auger motor by removing the auger pin.
Remove the auger shaft. Gently lift the auger shaft straight up so that the end of the
auger shaft comes up out of the bottom auger bushing. Next, remove the two nuts
that hold the top auger biscuit in. Then rotate the bottom end of the auger shaft up
towards you until you can lift the shaft out of the stove. After you have removed the
shaft, inspect it for bent flights, burrs, or broken welds. Remove any foreign material
that might have caused the jam. Also, check the auger tube for signs of damage such
as burrs, rough spots, or grooves cut into the metal that could have caused a jam.
Remove the auger motor from the auger shaft and try to run the unit. If the motor will
turn, the shaft is jammed on something. If the motor will not turn, the motor is bad.
Temporarily bypass the POF thermodisc by disconnecting the two brown wires and
connecting them with a short piece of wire. Then plug the stove back in. If the stove
comes on and works, you need to replace the POF thermodisc. This is for testing only.
DO NOT LEAVE THE THERMODISC BYPASSED. Your blowers will never shut off and if
the fire went out, the auger will continue to feed pellets until the hopper is empty if you
leave the POF thermodisc bypassed.
Wait for the stove to cool for about 30-45 minutes. It should now function normally. If
not, use the owner's manual to locate the high limit thermodisc. To test if the thermodisc
is bad, you can bypass it as described previously for the POF thermodisc.
Remove the control board. On the back, there is one fuse. If it appears to be bad,
replace it with a 5 Amp 125 Volt fuse. Plug the stove back in and try to run the unit.
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© 2024 Breckwell
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