Duerkopp Adler 745-34 Service Instructions Manual
Duerkopp Adler 745-34 Service Instructions Manual

Duerkopp Adler 745-34 Service Instructions Manual

Sewing unit for runstitching of piped flap and welt pocket openings and pocket corners working methods: a, b, d, f
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Sewing unit for runstitching of piped flap
and welt pocket openings and pocket corners
Postfach 17 03 51, D-33703 Bielefeld • Potsdamer Straße 190, D-33719 Bielefeld
Telefon + 49 (0) 5 21 / 9 25-00 • Telefax + 49 (0) 5 21 / 9 25 24 35 • www.duerkopp-adler.com
Ausgabe / Edition: 01/2004
Manual, complete
Working methods: A, B, D, F
Instructions for Programming DAC
Printed in Federal Republic of Germany
745 - 34
Operating Instructions
Installation Instructions
Service Instructions
Teile-Nr./Part.-No.: 0791 745161
1
2
3
4

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Summary of Contents for Duerkopp Adler 745-34

  • Page 1 Manual, complete 745 - 34 Sewing unit for runstitching of piped flap and welt pocket openings and pocket corners Working methods: A, B, D, F Operating Instructions Installation Instructions Service Instructions Instructions for Programming DAC Postfach 17 03 51, D-33703 Bielefeld • Potsdamer Straße 190, D-33719 Bielefeld Telefon + 49 (0) 5 21 / 9 25-00 •...
  • Page 2 745 - 34 Manual, complete Summary Operating Instructions Installation Instructions Service Instructions Instructions for Programming DAC Interconnection-diagram 9870 745100 B 9870 745115 B 9870 745116 B 9870 001018 B Pneumatic circuit plan 9770 745003...
  • Page 3: Table Of Contents

    Index Page: Part 3: Service Instructions 745-34 General notes ..........Gauges .
  • Page 4 Index Page: Transport carriage Rear end position ..........3.1.1 Position of the limit switch in the slotted hole .
  • Page 5 Index Page: Folders and pick-up folders (Working methods B, D, F) 12.1 Proper fastening ..........12.2 Aligning the folder as to the middle of the pocket opening .
  • Page 6 Index Page: 15.6 Pocket bag feed ..........15.6.1 Loading position .
  • Page 7: Part 3: Service Instructions

    General notes The service instruction manual on hand describes the adjustment of the sewing unit 745-34 in an appropriate sequence. ATTENTION ! Some of the setting positions are interdependent. Therefore it is absolutely necessary to do the adjustment following the described order.
  • Page 8: Gauges

    Gauges The gauges listed below allow a precise setting and testing of the sewing unit. The locking peg 1 belongs to the standard accessories of the sewing unit. It serves to arrest the machine head in position A (looping stroke). The setting gauges marked with *) are available on inquiry.
  • Page 9: Groove In The Arm Shaft Crank

    Groove in the arm shaft crank The arm shaft crank 1 is provided with a groove 2 (5 mm). The machine head can be locked with the locking peg through drill-hole Now the machine is in looping stroke position (position A).
  • Page 10: Sewing Machine Head

    Sewing machine head Raising the sewing machine head For maintenance work the machine head can be raised. For this purpose the transport carriage must be in its rear position. Caution: Danger of injury ! Switch off the main switch. Raise the machine head only with the main switch switched off.
  • Page 11 Raising the machine head – Remove covering cap 1. Lift the covering cap at the front so that the arrest is released. Lift the covering cap carefully. – Swivel the folding station 3 by 90°. – Swing the locking peg 4 upwards. –...
  • Page 12: Removing / Installing The Sewing Machine Head

    Removing / Installing the sewing machine head For repair work or an easier change to another needle distance the machine head can be removed. For this purpose the transport carriage must be in its rear position. Caution: Danger of injury! Switch off the main switch and disconnect from the pneumatic net.
  • Page 13 Removing the machine head – Remove the covering cap 1. For this purpose lift the covering cap at the front so that the arrest is released. Lift the covering cap carefully. – Swivel the folding station 3 by 90°. – Swing the locking lever 4 upwards.
  • Page 14: Crank Pin At The Arm Shaft

    Crank pin at the arm shaft The distance between the eccentric crank pin 1 and the arm shaft 4 determines the needle bar stroke and thus the upper dead centre of the jointly and separately connectable needle bars. ATTENTION ! The crank pin 1 is precisely set by the manufacturer! After exchanging the thread lever or if the needles do not disconnect correctly any longer, the crank pin 1 has to be readjusted.
  • Page 15 Caution: Danger of injury ! Switch off the main switch. Adjust the crank pin only with the main switch switched off. – Remove the head cover 9 after loosening the fastening screws 8. – Swivel the thread tension plate 10 sideways after loosening the fastening screws 11.
  • Page 16 – Detach the needle bar tie rod from the crank pin 1 after unscrewing its fastening screws (ATTENTION left-hand thread) and pull it off with the needle cage. – Turn the handwheel until the Allen screws 2 point downward. In this position the screws are accessible. –...
  • Page 17: Needle Bar Linkage And Disconnectable Needle Bars

    Needle bar linkage and disconnectable needle bars 2.4.1 Removing the needle bar linkage Caution: Danger of injury! Switch off the main switch. Remove the needle bar linkage only with the sewing unit switched off. – Unscrew the screws 1 and take off head cover 2. –...
  • Page 18 – Loosen the counternut 12. – Loosen the adjusting screw 13 a bit. ATTENTION ! Do not loosen both adjusting screws 13. With the two adjusting screws 13 the correct height of the linkage frame has been set by the manufacturer. ATTENTION ! Avoid damage to the oil wick when taking off the needle bar.
  • Page 19: Removing A Needle Bar From The Linkage

    2.4.2 Removing a needle bar from the linkage – Loosen the clamping screw 1. – Pull out the bearing bolt 2 – Pull off the support plate 3 from the needle bar linkage. – Unscrew the screws 8 and 10. –...
  • Page 20: Disassembly Of The Needle Bar

    2.4.3 Disassembly of a needle bar – Remove the linkage 16 and the needle bar as described under 2.4.1. – Screw off screw 1 and unscrew the needle holder 2. – Unscrew screw 15 and loosen the spring counter bearing 16. ATTENTION ! The spring counter bearing is under spring pressure.
  • Page 21: Installation Of The Needle Bars In The Needle Bar Linkage

    2.4.5 Installation of the needle bars in the needle bar linkage – Insert the needle bar 7 in the linkage 1 from below. – Insert the needle bar in yoke 14 and clamping ring 13. The thin side of the clamping ring must point to the other needle bar and its indentation must point upwards.
  • Page 22 – Fasten the clamping ring 13 on the needle bar. Please observe that both clamping rings 13 with their round extensions are guided in clevis 17 fastened on the yoke. After tightening the fastening screw 15 the safety bolt 16 has to be tightened, too. –...
  • Page 23: Installation Of The Needle Bar Linkage

    2.4.6 Installation of the needle bar linkage Caution: Danger of injury ! Switch off the main switch. Mount the needle bar linkage only with the sewing unit switched off. – Push the support plate 4 on the needle bar linkage 5. –...
  • Page 24 – Push the thread puller 11 on the pins 9 and 12 and tighten with screws 10 and 13. – Adjust the thread puller (see chapter 2.10).
  • Page 25: Height Of The Needle Bar Linkage

    2.4.7 Adjusting the height of the needle bar linkage Caution: Danger of injury ! Switch off the main switch. Check and adjust the height of the needle bar linkage only with the sewing unit switched off. Standard checking For a safe engagement and disengagement of the needle bars the needle bar linkage must be precisely set as to the needle bars.
  • Page 26: Switch Actuation Point Of The Needle Bars

    2.4.8 Adjusting the switch actuation point of the needle bars Caution: Danger of injury ! Switch off the main switch. Check and adjust the switch actuation point of the needle bars only with the sewing unit switched off. Standard checking The lower end position of the switching latches 3 has to be set in such a way that the needle bars disconnect safely when moving upwards.
  • Page 27: Aligning The Needle Bar Linkage To The Throat Plate

    2.4.9 Aligning the needle bar linkage to the throat plate Caution: Danger of injury ! Switch off the main switch. Check and adjust the alignment of the needle bar linkage only with the sewing unit switched off. Standard checking The needles should penetrate in the centre of the holes of throat plate 3.
  • Page 28: Exchanging The Needle Holder

    2.4.10 Exchanging the needle holder Caution: Danger of injury ! Switch off the main switch. Check and exchange the needle holder only with the sewing unit switched off. ATTENTION ! For changing a needle holder the needle bar in question must be in position “down”.
  • Page 29: Hook

    Hook 2.5.1 Adjusting the hook shaft height Standard checking The distance between the throat plate support 4 and the flange surface 1 of the hook shaft must amount to 17.7 mm. The exact height of the hook shafts is set by means of gauge 3 (order number 0244 001001).
  • Page 30: Adjusting The Gear Clearance Of The Hook Drive

    2.5.2 Adjusting the gear clearance of the hook drive Standard checking The gear clearance between worm and worm wheel should be as small as possible. The free movement must, however, remain guaranteed. The gear clearance has to be reset after every adjustment of the hook drive in axial direction (alteration of the needle distance).
  • Page 31: Adjusting The Looping Stroke

    2.5.3 Adjusting the looping stroke Standard checking The looping stroke is the way of the needle bars from the bottom dead centre to the point where the hook tips 3 are at the level of the middle of needle 4. The looping stroke is 2 mm.
  • Page 32: Adjusting The Height Of The Needle Holders

    2.5.4 Adjusting the height of the needle holders 1,5 mm Standard checking In looping stroke position the distance between the top edge of the needle’s eye and the hook tip 2 must amount to 1.5 mm. The setting is done by means of the measuring bridge 3 (order number 0212 4942) and the adjusting pin 4 (order number 0216 1070).
  • Page 33 Correction – Remove the throat plate. – Remove the needles from the needle holders. Hint For turning the needle holders one needle bar each has to be disconnected. – Move the needle bars by handwheel nearly up to the top dead centre.
  • Page 34: Adjusting The Distance Between Hook Tips And Needles

    2.5.5 Adjusting the distance between hook tips and needles Standard checking In looping stroke position the distance between the hook tips 6 and the needles 7 should amount to 0.1 mm. The set distance allows to work with needle sizes Nm 90 to Nm 110. When changing between these needle sizes a correction of the distance between the hook tips and the needles is not necessary.
  • Page 35 – Loosen screw 12. – Reset the needle protection 11 by turning the eccentric bolt 13. – Remove the needle from the needle holder. – Push the adjusting pin 5 into the needle holder as far as it will go. –...
  • Page 36: Needle Protection

    2.5.6 Needle protection 0,1 mm Standard checking The needle protection 1 avoids that the needle 4 is deflected into the path of the hook tip 5. Before the hook tip 5 reaches the needle, the needle point must abut on the needle protection 1. It must not be possible to push the needle into the path of the hook tip 5.
  • Page 37: Exchanging The Hook

    2.5.7 Exchanging the hook Caution: Danger of injury ! Switch off the main switch. Exchange the hook only with the sewing unit switched off. – Remove the throat plate 6 after loosening the fastening screws. – Remove the bobbin case top part 1 with bobbin. –...
  • Page 38: Adjusting The Bobbin Case Holding Wire

    2.5.8 Adjusting the bobbin case holding wire Function The bobbin case holding wire 6 holds the bobbin case top and bottom parts in a certain position against the rotary motion of the hook. The needle thread loop guided around the hook is pulled between the springy holding wire 6 and the edge 5 of the bobbin case top part.
  • Page 39 Correction – Loosen the clamping screw 3. – Adjust the holding wire 1. The holding wire must project from the plate 5 by 13 mm. – Tighten the clamping screw 3. – Loosen screw 6. – Adjust the height of plate 5. The holding wire 1 must abut in front of edge 2 of the bobbin case top part 9.
  • Page 40: Aligning The Light Barriers Of The Bobbin Thread Monitor

    2.5.9 Aligning the light barriers of the bobbin thread monitor Standard checking The light barrier holders 3 and 5 are adjusted by the manufacturer in such a way that there is a sufficient safety distance of 3,5 mm between the revolving hooks and the light barriers 2 and 6. The alignment of the reflected light barriers is done in the adjustment program (see Programming Instructions, chapter 6.3.1).
  • Page 41 – Turn the empty bobbin manually. In case the infrared radiation of the light barrier strikes the reflection face 7 of the bobbin hub, this is indicated on the display by an arrow 8 between the reflection head and the hook thread bobbin.
  • Page 42: Center Knife

    Center knife 2.6.1 Removing / Installing the driving motor Caution: Danger of injury ! Switch off the main switch. Remove and install the driving motor only with the sewing unit switched off. Removing the driving motor – Unscrew the screws 6 at the driving motor and pull off cover 1. –...
  • Page 43: Removing / Installing The Switching Cylinder

    2.6.2 Removing / Installing the switching cylinder Caution: Danger of injury ! Switch off the main switch. Remove and mount the switching cylinder only with the sewing unit switched off. Removing the switching cylinder – Pull off the pneumatic hoses 3 and 4. –...
  • Page 44: Adjusting The Knife

    2.6.3 Adjusting the knife Caution: Danger of injury ! Switch off the main switch. Separate the sewing unit from the pneumatic net. Adjust the center knife only with the sewing unit switched off. Standard checking In the bottom dead centre the front edge 2 of center knife 3 must jut out approx.
  • Page 45 – Loosen screws 5 and 6. – Place the knife holder 4 with the center knife 3 to the left against the stationary knife in the throat plate. The center knife must abut in parallel position and with slight pressure. –...
  • Page 46: Thread Controller Spring

    Thread controller spring Caution: Danger of injury! Switch off the main switch. Adjust the thread controller spring only with the sewing unit switched off. Standard checking The thread controller springs must keep the needle threads under tension until the needle points penetrate the fabric. If the needle threads are slack when the needles penetrate the fabric it may happen that the needles prick the threads when moving down.
  • Page 47: Trimming And Clamping Device For The Needle Threads

    Trimming and clamping device for the needle threads 2.8.1 Function Caution: Danger of injury! Switch off the main switch. Check knife and thread catcher only with the sewing unit switched off. Function – The cylinder 2 is switched on after the seam end and during the feed to the corner knives.
  • Page 48 2.8.2 Exchanging and adjusting knife and thread catcher 0,5 mm Caution: Danger of injury ! Switch off the main switch. Exchange knife and thread catcher only with the sewing unit switched off. Standard After a certain service life the knife 5 loses its sharpness. The blunt knife has to be removed for resharpening.
  • Page 49: Exchanging Knife And Thread Catcher

    Mount the complete thread catcher – Mount the complete thread catcher on the machine head. – Mount the complete thread catcher in such a way that the needle thread catcher 3 is centric between the needles. – Adjust the height of the thread catcher so that the dimension between sliding sheet and lower edge of the needle thread catcher is 27 +/- 1 mm.
  • Page 50: Trimming And Clamping Device For The Hook Threads

    Trimming and clamping device for the hook threads Function – After the seam end and during the thread pulling process the hook threads are pulled through the thread grooves of the throat plate into the open hook thread scissors 2 and the hook thread clamp 1. –...
  • Page 51 Standard The top edge of the hook thread scissors 2 must be on the same level as the top side of the throat plate. A hook thread scissors in a too high position may damage the fabric. If the hook thread scissors is positioned too low, the hook threads are not cut off.
  • Page 52 – Align the spring clamping sheets 3. The spring clamping sheets must abut on the throat plate panel flat and with slight spring pressure. Check the safety distance between the hook tips and the pneumatically opened thread clamps. For this purpose please proceed as follows: –...
  • Page 53: Thread Puller For The Needle Threads

    2.10 Thread puller for the needle threads Caution: Danger of injury ! Switch off the main switch. Adjust the thread puller only with the sewing unit switched off. Standard checking The thread puller 1 pulls a certain needle thread quantity out of the opened thread tension.
  • Page 54: Synchronizer

    2.11 Synchronizer Caution: Danger of injury! Switch off the main switch. Adjust the synchronizer only with the sewing unit switched off. Standard checking After positioning the thread lever should be at the top dead centre. The distance between the synchronizer 2 and the cam segment 5 should amount to approx.
  • Page 55: Oil Lubrication

    2.12 Oil lubrication Caution: Danger of injury ! Oil can cause skin rashes. Avoid longer skin contact. After contact wash yourself thoroughly. ATTENTION ! The handling and disposal of mineral oils is subject to legal regulations. Deliver used oil to an authorized collecting station. Protect your environment.
  • Page 56: Hook Lubrication

    2.12.1 Hook lubrication Standard The necessary oil quantity has been adjusted by the manufacturer with the screws 7 and 8. It should be reduced or increased in special cases only. – Adjust the screws 7 and 8. – Screw the screws in: less oil –...
  • Page 57: Transport Carriage

    Transport carriage Rear end position Standard checking The switch 1 determines the rear and by means of a definitely specified path also the front end position of the transport carriage. The switching screw 3 should be 16 mm above the fastening surface at the transport carriage.
  • Page 59: Position Of The Limit Switch In The Slotted Hole

    3.1.1 Position of the limit switch in the slotted hole Checking – Unscrew screws 7 and take off the covering cap 6. – Check the position of the limit switch 1 in the slotted hole 2. Correction – Loosen the upper counternut at the limit switch 1. –...
  • Page 60: Toothed Belt Tension

    Toothed belt tension Caution: Danger of injury ! Switch off the main switch. Check and adjust the toothed belt tension only with the sewing unit switched off. Standard checking Over the tightening length S= 300 mm the toothed belt must bend under the test load FV = 34 N until the upper belt just touches the lower one.
  • Page 61 Correction – Unscrew screws 7 and take off the covering cap 6. – Set the toothed belt tension with nut 10.
  • Page 62: Changing The Toothed Belt

    Changing the toothed belt Caution: Danger of injury ! Switch off the main switch. Change the toothed belt only with the sewing unit switched off. For an easier exchange the toothed belt 3 is divided. It is held together by the belt clamp 4. Removing the old toothed belt –...
  • Page 63: Feeding Clamps

    Feeding clamps Measuring line for aligning the feeding clamps and the folder For an unhindered material feed and a perfect pocket opening the folding and cutting tools as well as the marking lamps must be aligned to the middle of the pocket opening. The middle between both needle holders is considered as the middle of the pocket opening.
  • Page 64: Aligning The Feeding Clamps As To The Auxiliary Line

    Aligning the feeding clamps as to the auxiliary line Caution: Danger of injury ! Switch off the main switch. Check the parallel position of the feeding clamps only with the sewing unit switched off. Standard checking The feeding clamps 5 must be in parallel position to the pick-up folder and to the auxiliary line 2.
  • Page 65: Feeding Clamp Stroke

    Feeding clamp stroke Caution: Danger of injury ! Switch off the main switch. Check and adjust the stroke of the feeding clamps only with the sewing unit switched off. Standard checking When the flap clamps 4 are closed, the raised feeding clamps 2 and 3 must pass the machine arm 1 without hitting it.
  • Page 66: Distance Between The Feeding Clamps And The Sole Of The Folder

    Distance between the feeding clamps and the sole of the folder Standard checking Between the outer edges 1 of the folder sole and the inner edges 2 of the feeding clamps there must be a certain distance. When processing medium-weight clothing fabrics the distance should amount to approx. 1.0 to 1.5 mm.
  • Page 67 – Start the sewing operation and check the distance between the outer edges of the folder sole and the inner edges of the feeding clamps. Correction – Set the stop screws 4 with the knurled nuts 3.
  • Page 68: Front End Position Of The Feeding Clamp

    Front end position of the feeding clamp Caution: Danger of injury ! Switch off the main switch. Adjust the feeding clamp with utmost caution. – Move towards the reference point (switch 1). – Select version A or D/B/F. The feeding clamp runs to the front end position. –...
  • Page 69: Device For Blowing The Piping Strip / Pocket Bag For 745-34 A/B/F

    Device for blowing the piping strip / pocket bag for 745-34 A/B/F In case of class 745-34 B and F the clamps K 12, K 13 and K 16 are equipped with a device for blowing the piping strip. For clamp K 19 (745-34 A) the optional set of parts 0745 597884 for blowing is available.
  • Page 70: Knives For Corner Incision

    Knives for corner incision Caution: Danger of injury ! Do not reach into the area of the corner knives. The corner knives shooting up can cause severe cuts. Carry out adjusting operations with utmost caution when the sewing unit is running. Presetting 0,1 - 0,3 mm In order to be able to precisely adjust the position of the corner knives...
  • Page 71: Belt Tension

    Belt tension Standard checking Over half the tightening length S = 185 mm the toothed belt 1 must bend under the test load FV = 50 N so that the loaded belt just touches the other belt. Consequences of a too high toothed belt tension –...
  • Page 72: Aligning The Corner Knife Station As To The Seams

    Aligning the corner knife station as to the seams Caution: Danger of injury ! Switch off the main switch. Adjust the corner knife station only with the sewing unit switched off. Standard checking The corner incisions must be symmetrical to the seams. –...
  • Page 73 – Loosen the screws 3 slightly. – Shift the holder 2 correspondingly. – Tighten the screws 3. – Swing the corner knife station back. Correction of the corner incision at the seam beginning – Loosen the screw 5 slightly. – Adjust the corner knife station with Allen screw 4.
  • Page 74: Adjusting The Slant Of The Corner Incisions

    Adjusting the slant of the corner incisions Caution: Danger of injury ! Switch off the main switch. Adjust the corner knives only with the sewing unit switched off. Standard checking The incisions of the corner knives should be as close to the seam as possible, but must not cut it.
  • Page 75: Corner Knife Adjustments

    Corner knife adjustments The corner knives are adjusted by means of machine-specific adjustment and test programs. The procedure is described in the instruction manual “Part 4: Programming Instructions DAC Cl. 745-34” The following adjustments have to be made: · Check the corner knife adjustment See Programming Instructions, chapter 6.3.5 ·...
  • Page 76: Exchanging The Corner Knives

    Exchanging the corner knives Caution: Danger of injury ! Switch off the main switch. Exchange the corner knife station only with the sewing unit switched off. Danger of cuts. Do not reach into the sharp edges of the corner knives. Blunt knives are to be exchanged against a set of knives included in the accessories.
  • Page 77: Laser Markings

    Laser markings Class 745-34 is equipped with 5 standard lasers for marking the positioning points. Laser 1 marks the front positioning point for the left or right workpiece, laser 5 marks the rear positioning point. Laser 3 marks the middle of the pocket opening. The sewing area is limited by the markings 1 and 5.
  • Page 78: Aligning The Markings

    Aligning the laser markings 16 12 Caution: Danger of injury ! Laser light. Do not look into the light source. The markings 13 mark the seam beginning, the markings 14 the middle of the pocket opening and the markings 15 the seam end. The markings 1, 2 and 4, 5 must be aligned as to the cutting line 8 (middle of pocket opening).
  • Page 79 Spacing A Checking the exact position of the markings Light marking 1 and 2 respectively (seam beginning): – Press the function key F1 when the main screen is indicated. The display changes to the screen “Pocket programs”. – Select the program for the laser markings with the cursor keys “ï” or “ð”. –...
  • Page 80: Reflected Light Barriers For Flap Scanning

    Reflected light barriers for flap scanning Swivel arm Caution: Danger of injury ! Switch off the main switch. Adjust the swivel arm of the reflected light barriers only with the sewing unit switched off. Standard checking The swivel arm 1 should stand in parallel position to the machine arm. When swivelling in front of the arm it must snap in safely.
  • Page 81: Aligning The Light Barriers

    Aligning the light barriers The light barriers are aligned by means of machine-specific adjustment and test programs. The procedure is described in the instruction manual “Part 4: Programming Instructions DAC Cl. 745-34” Aligning the light barriers chapter 6.3.4. The following adjustments have to be made: ·...
  • Page 82: Aligning The Air Nozzles For Cleaning The Reflected Foil

    Aligning the air nozzles for cleaning the reflected foil The light barrier fixture is equipped with additional air nozzles for cleaning the reflected foils from dust and fluff. Standard checking The air nozzles 1 have to be aligned in such a way that the air stream is directed towards the reflected foils while the feeding clamp moves in loading position.
  • Page 83: Aligning The Folding Station Plate As To The Measuring Line

    Aligning the folding station plate as to the measuring line Caution: Danger of injury ! Switch off the main switch. Adjust the folding station plate of the loading station only with the sewing unit switched off. Standard checking The distance between the middle of the needle and the inner side of the folding station plate 1 must amount to 75 mm.
  • Page 84: Positioning The Sewing Machine Head As To The Table Top

    Positioning the sewing machine head as to the table top Caution: Danger of injury ! Switch off the main switch. Adjust the sewing machine head only with the sewing unit switched off. Standard checking The non-varnished surface of the base plate 1 of the sewing machine head must be at the same level as the table top 2 over its whole length.
  • Page 85: Fabric Sliding Sheet And Vacuum Plate

    10. Fabric sliding sheet and vacuum plate 10.1 Adjusting the height of the vacuum plate Standard checking The vacuum plate should be on one level with the table top. – Lift the fabric sliding sheets 1 at the front and swivel them to the left.
  • Page 86: Aligning The Fabric Sliding Sheet As To The Throat Plate

    10.2 Aligning the fabric sliding sheet as to the throat plate Caution: Danger of injury ! Switch off the main switch. Align the fabric sliding sheets only with the sewing unit switched off. Standard checking The fabric sliding sheets 1 and 3 have to be aligned in such a way that their cutouts have a uniform distance to the throat plate 3.
  • Page 87: Folder (Working Method A)

    Folder (working method A) 11.1 Proper fastening Caution: Danger of injury ! Switch off the main switch. Remove and mount the folder only with the sewing unit switched off. Standard The folder 3 has to be pushed upwards until it abuts on the clamping collar 1.
  • Page 88: Aligning The Folder As To The Middle Of The Pocket Opening

    11.2 Aligning the folder as to the middle of the pocket opening Example for NA 12 Caution: Danger of injury ! Switch off the main switch. Align the folder as to the middle of the pocket opening only with the main switch switched off.
  • Page 89: Lifting Motion Of The Folder

    11.3 Lifting motion of the folder Caution: Danger of injury ! Switch off the main switch. Adjust the lifting motion of the folder only with the sewing unit switched off. Standard checking When the folder is lowered – Lower the folder on the fabric sliding sheet. In this position there must be a clearance of 0.3 - 0.5 mm between the guide roller 7 and the lowest point of the guide groove 6.
  • Page 90 Caution: Danger of injury ! Switch off the main switch. Adjust the guide groove for the folder only with the sewing unit switched off. – Loosen the screws 8 and 9. – Shift the cam piece 6 in the slotted holes. –...
  • Page 91: Position Of The Folder To The Needles And To The Center Knife

    11.4 Position of the folder to the needles and to the center knife Caution: Danger of injury ! Switch off the main switch. Align the folder as to the needles and to the center knife only with the sewing unit switched off. Standard checking When the folder is properly fastened, the following conditions must be fulfilled:...
  • Page 92: Aligning The Guide Plates At The Folder

    11.5 Aligning the guide plates at the folder Caution: Danger of injury! Switch off the main switch. Adjust the guide plates only with the sewing unit switched off. Standard checking When the folder is lowered, the edges 3 of the guide plates 2 must project from the needles by approx.
  • Page 93: Changing The Toothed Belt For The Folder Movement

    11.6 Changing the toothed belt for the folder movement Some machines of the working methods A and D can be equipped with a slewing cylinder and a toothed belt for the folder movement. Caution: Danger of injury! Switch off the main switch. Change the toothed belt only with the sewing unit switched off.
  • Page 94: Safety Switch For The Folders

    11.7 Safety switch for the folders Caution: Danger of injury ! Switch off the main switch. Check and adjust the switch lug 3 only with the sewing unit switched off. Standard checking By means of the switches S22 and S23 it is checked whether the used folder belongs to the selected sewing program.
  • Page 95: Folders And Pick-Up Folders (Working Methods B, D, F)

    12. Folders and pick-up folders (working methods B, D, F) 12.1 Proper fastening Caution: Danger of injury ! Switch off the main switch. Remove and mount the folder only with the sewing unit switched off. Standard Folder 2 is positioned correctly when the fastening screw 1 pushes into the insertion bore of pin 3.
  • Page 96: Aligning The Folder As To The Middle Of The Pocket Opening

    12.2 Aligning the folder as to the middle of the pocket opening Caution: Danger of injury ! Switch off the main switch. Align the folder as to the middle of the pocket opening only with the main switch turned off. Standard checking If properly fastened, the folder 5 can be aligned as to the middle of the pocket opening from the measuring line 1.
  • Page 97: Checking The Position Of The Folder As To The Needles And The Center Knife

    12.3 Checking the position of the folder as to the needles and to the center knife Caution: Danger of injury ! Switch off the main switch. Check the position of the folder as to the needles and to the center knife only with the main switch switched off.
  • Page 98: Guide Plates At The Folder

    12.4 Adjusting the guide plates at the folder Caution: Danger of injury ! Switch off the main switch. Check and adjust the guide plates only with the main switch switched off. Standard checking According to the material thickness and considering whether the flap is to be positioned on the right or on the left the height of the guide plates has to be adjusted in such a way that they can easily be lifted by the workpiece.
  • Page 99: Lifting Motion And Suspension Of The Folder

    12.5 Lifting motion and suspension of the folder Caution: Danger of injury ! Switch off the main switch. Check and adjust lifting motion and suspension of the folder only with the main switch turned off. Standard checking The folder 1 is suspended flexibly and is lifted by the pneumatic cylinder 2.
  • Page 100 257,5 mm 117,5 mm...
  • Page 101: Presetting The Mounting Plate For The Pick-Up Folder

    12.6 Presetting the mounting plate for the pick-up folder Caution: Danger of injury ! Check and adjust the mounting plate for the pick-up folder with utmost caution when the sewing unit is running. Standard checking After the pick-up folder has laterally swivelled to the center of the pocket opening, the distance between the face side 2 of the mounting plate 3 and the needles should amount to 257.5 mm and the distance between the left side of mounting plate 3 and the measuring line 4 to...
  • Page 102: Aligning The Pick-Up Folder

    12.7 Aligning the pick-up folder Caution: Danger of injury ! Align the pick-up folder with utmost caution when the sewing unit is running. 12.7.1Aligning the folder sole as to the middle of the pocket opening – Push the pick-up folder 5 upwards as far as it will go. –...
  • Page 103: Adjusting The Height Of The Pick-Up Folder As To The Folder

    12.7.2Adjusting the height of the pick-up folder as to the folder Adjust the height of the pick-up folder in such a way that - when the pick-up folder is lowered - both soles are flush at the connecting surface seen from the side. For this purpose turn the self-locking grub screw correspondingly.
  • Page 104: Position Of The Pick-Up Folder In Sewing Direction

    12.7.3Position of the pick-up folder in sewing direction – Slightly loosen the screws 3 at the mounting plate. – Shift the lowered pick-up folder in sewing direction so that there is a distance of 0.5 mm between folder and pick-up folder. Take care that the sole of the pick-up folder rests on the fabric sliding sheet over its whole length.
  • Page 105: Adjusting The Guide Plates At The Pick-Up Folder

    12.8 Adjusting the guide plates at the pick-up folder 8 mm 0,3-0,5 mm Standard checking The guide plates at the pick-up folder have to be adjusted in such a way that the workpieces can pass the junction between folder and pick-up folder without hindrance.
  • Page 106: Stop Screw For The Pick-Up Folder

    12.9 Stop screw for the pick-up folder Caution: Danger of injury ! Adjust the stop screw for the pick-up folder with utmost caution when the sewing unit is running. Standard checking The stop screw 10 has to be adjusted in such a way that - with the folder lowered - the distance between the folder sole and the sliding sheet amounts to approx.
  • Page 107: Recognition Of The Pick-Up Folder

    12.10 Recognition of the pick-up folder Caution: Danger of injury ! Switch off the main switch. Check and adjust the switches S22 and S 23 only with the sewing unit switched off. Standard checking Via the switches S22 and S23 it is checked whether the used pick-up folder belongs to the selected sewing program.
  • Page 108 Notes:...
  • Page 109: Feeding Device For Working Method B And F

    13. Feeding device for working method B and F 13.1 General notes The feeding device is available in two versions: Feeding device, left Sewing length 180 and 220 mm 0745 517564 Feeding device, right Sewing length 180 and 220 mm 0745 517574 The adjustment of the right and left feeding device is described in the following.
  • Page 110 Taking off the rear toothed belt – Loosen Allen screw 4 and press the tension pulley 5 away from toothed belt 6. – Take off the locking ring 7. – Loosen screw 10, push the piston rod 9 into the cylinder and turn the cylinder upwards.
  • Page 111: Adjusting The Belt Tension (Working Method B)

    13.3 Adjusting the belt tension (working method B) Caution: Danger of injury ! Switch off the main switch. Check and adjust the belt tension of the transfer device only with the sewing unit switched off. Standard checking The toothed belts 1 and 6 should be tensioned in such a way that a faultless meshing is guaranteed.
  • Page 112: Basic Adjustment Of The Swivel Arms (Working Method B)

    13.4 Basic adjustment of the swivel arms (working method B) Caution: Danger of injury ! Switch off the main switch. The basic adjustment must be done with the sewing unit switched on. Do not reach into the motion zone of the swivel arms. Basic adjustment Standard checking When the right or the left feeding device is swivelled downward, the...
  • Page 113 Correction of the shanks – Loosen the screws 7 and 8. – Adjust the shanks 4 and 6. – Tighten the screws 7 and 8. Observe lateral clearance.
  • Page 114 Flap clamp of the feeding clamp Flap clamp Middle of pocket opening Feeding clamp Sliding sheet Folding sheet Flap rest table Pick-up folder...
  • Page 115: Aligning And Adjusting The Flap Clamp (Working Method B)

    13.5 Aligning and adjusting the flap clamps (working method B) 13.5.1 Aligning the flap clamps as to the measuring line Caution: Danger of injury ! The basic adjustment has to be done with the sewing unit switched on. Do not reach into the motion zone of the swivel arms. Standard checking The flap clamps should be aligned as shown in the left sketch.
  • Page 116: Aligning The Flap Clamps As To The Pick-Up Folder

    13.5.2 Aligning the flap clamps as to the pick-up folder Standard checking The flap clamp height above the fabric sliding sheet must amount to 14+3 mm in swivelled-in position. The lateral distance of the flap clamps to the pick-up folder has to be adjusted as close as possible without touching it (Dimension 0.3+0.5 mm).
  • Page 117 Lateral correction (Dimension 0.3 + 0.5 mm) – Loosen the counternut 5 at the piston rod. – Turn the piston rod 6. – Tighten the counternut 5. – If required, readjust the shanks 3 and 4.
  • Page 118: Adjusting The Flap Clamp Lifting Device

    13.5.3 Adjusting the flap clamp lifting device 40+3 mm Standard checking The flap clamp lifting device lifts the flap clamps 5 before swivelling out so that they can pass over the closed flap clamps 6 of the feeding clamps without hindrance. The lifting height above the fabric sliding sheet must amount to 14 + 3 mm .
  • Page 119: Adjusting The Flap Clamp As To The Rest Table

    13.5.4 Adjusting the flap clamps as to the rest table 40 + 3 mm Standard checking Not only the swivelling width of the flap clamps but also the position of the rest table can be adjusted. The swivelling width can individually be set according to the operator;...
  • Page 120: Flap Turning Device (Working Method F)

    13.6 Flap turning device (working method F) Working method F consists of working method B and flap turning device. Caution: Danger of injury ! Switch off the main switch. Check and adjust the flap turning device only with the sewing unit switched off.
  • Page 121 Removing the toothed belt 8 – Loosen and unscrew the clamping nut 11. – Pull out the toothed belt wheel 12 with levers. Slip off and remove the toothed belt 8. Putting on a new toothed belt 8 – Place the toothed belt on the toothed belt wheel 9. –...
  • Page 122: Basic Position Of The Turning Device

    13.6.2 Basic position of the turning device The function of the turning gear is only guaranteed when the gear is adjusted as shown in the right picture. The basic adjustment of the turning device must be done after every exchange of the toothed belt or after a wrong adjustment. First adjustment –...
  • Page 123: Aligning The Flap Turning Device As To The Feeding Device And To The Sewing Level

    13.6.3 Aligning the flap turning device as to the feeding device and to the sewing level The feeding device of working method B must transfer the flap precisely into the flap clamp 1 of the feeding clamp. Pick-up folder, folder, feeding clamps and sewing equipment must be adjusted in such a way that a good sewing result is already achieved.
  • Page 124 Mtter Bush 10±3 µµ 9 10 Adjusting the flap transfer position Precondition: The flap clamp lifting device is adjusted as described in chapter 13.5.3. Standard checking The stationary flap clamp 1 of the flap turning device must stand 3 mm underneath the rest table 3. The lateral distance of flap clamp 1 of the flap turning device and of flap clamp 2 of the feeding device should amount to 10 3 mm.
  • Page 125 Swivel the flap turning device to the loading area – Call up the test program “Checking the loading operation with feeding clamp” (key “RST” and key “F2”). – Step on the left pedal once until the flap turning device is swivelled –...
  • Page 126 Correction of the swivelling width – Loosen screw 2. (ill. on the top left corner of page 123) – Adjust the lower stationary flap clamp 3 in transverse direcction by turning the toothed wheel 1. (ill. on the top left corner of page 123) –...
  • Page 127: Sewing Test According To Pattern

    13.8 Sewing test according to pattern The settings according to these service instructions are followed by the adjustment as per pattern with a correspondingly prepared workpiece (light-coloured fabric). – Draw vertical and horizontal lines on flap 2 and on the workpiece. –...
  • Page 128 13.9 Error elimination...
  • Page 129 a) The flap is sewn in too deeply. The flap clamp 1 must be reset to the left. – Loosen the counternut 4 and unscrew the adjusting screw 3. (1 revolution = the flap is shifted by approx. 1 mm). –...
  • Page 130: Device For Cutting The Piping Ends Open Automatically

    14. Device for cutting the piping ends open automatically 14.1 Adjusting the piping cutter as to the pick-up folder Caution: Danger of injury ! When actuating the piping cutter the piping knives move out of the sole of the pick-up folder downward. In case of improper handling there is the risk of cutting your fingers with the sharp blades of the piping knives.
  • Page 131: Adjusting The Height Of The Rest Table

    14.2 Adjusting the height of the rest table Standard checking The sole of the lowered pick-up folder 6 must rest plainly on the rest table 4 with its whole length. This is necessary so that the piping strip is under tension over its whole length when being notched.
  • Page 132: Adjusting The Piping Strip Deflector

    14.3 Adjusting the piping strip deflector ATTENTION: Danger of collision When processing single piping the deflector has to be adjusted as to the edge of the wider sole of the single piping folder! Standard checking The deflector 2 avoids that the piping strip taken up by the pick-up folder gets under the sole when the pick-up folder lowers.
  • Page 133: Exchanging The Piping Knives

    14.4 Exchanging the piping knives Caution: Danger of injury ! When actuating the cylinders 4 the piping knives move out of the rest table upwards. In case of improper handling there is the risk of cutting your fingers with the sharp blades of the piping knives. Blunt knives have to be exchanged against a set of knives included in the accessories.
  • Page 134: Checking The Rear End Position Of The Piping Knife

    14.5 Checking the rear end position of the piping knife ATTENTION ! In order to prevent damage to the cutting mechanism the end position of the piping knives must exclusively be determined by the stroke end of the piston rods in the cylinders. The rear end position of the piping knives has been precisely set by the manufacturer.
  • Page 135: Toothed Belt Tension

    14.6 Toothed belt tension Standard checking Over half the tightening length S=145 the toothed belt 1 must bend under the test load Fv=6 N so that the loaded belt just touches the unloaded one. Correction – Remove the single piping stop completely. (See chapter 14). –...
  • Page 136: Exchanging The Toothed Belt

    14.7 Exchanging the toothed belt Caution: Danger of injury! Switch off the main switch. Exchange the toothed belt only with the sewing unit switched off. Correction – Remove the single piping stop completely. (See chapter 14.4) – Loosen screws 3 and screw off the clamping plate. –...
  • Page 137: Positioning Device For Working Method D

    15. Positioning device for working method D 15.1 General notes The breast welt lying on the preparation table is seized by the positioning device and positioned on the still inaccurately aligned jacket front. This allows exact matching as per pattern and subsequent suction of the jacket front by the vacuum.
  • Page 138: Aligning The Positioning Device

    15.3 Aligning the positioning device Caution: Danger of injury ! Switch off the main switch. Check and adjust the positioning device only with the main switch turned off. Carry out adjustments with utmost caution when the sewing machine is running. Correction –...
  • Page 139: Adjusting The Pattern Shift Correction

    15.4 Adjusting the pattern shift correction Caution: Danger of injury ! Switch off the main switch. Check and adjust the pattern shift correction only with the main switch turned off. Standard Between the breast welt positioned exactly as per pattern and the turned breast welt there will be a design-related pattern shift.
  • Page 140: Adjusting The Butterfly Valves

    15.5 Adjusting the butterfly valves Caution: Danger of injury ! Adjust the butterfly valves with utmost caution when the sewing unit is running. Standard checking The positioning device (turning device) 1 and the pattern shift correction 4 should swivel in and out rapidly, but not abruptly. –...
  • Page 141: Pocket Bag Feed

    15.6 Pocket bag feed 15.6.1 Loading position Caution: Danger of injury ! Switch off the main switch. Adjust the feed only with the main switch turned off. Make adjustments on the running sewing machine with utmost caution. Standard The feed safely transports the pocket bags to the middle of the pocket opening at the folder.
  • Page 142: Position Of The Assembly Strip On The Rest Table

    15.6.2 Position of the assembly strip on the rest table Caution: Danger of injury ! Switch off the main switch. Adjust the position of the assembly strip only with the main switch turned off. Standard The position of the assembly strip 3 has to be adjusted in such a way that the gripping needle rows stick into the center of the sponge rubber 2.
  • Page 143: Adjusting The Butterfly Valve

    15.6.3 Adjusting the butterfly valves The feeding motion should be rapid, but not abrupt. – Adjust the throttling valves 5 and 6. Throttling valve 5 = Lifting the needle rib. Throttling valve 6 = Lowering the needle rib.
  • Page 144: Adjusting The Optional Equipment

    16. Adjusting the optional equipment 16.1 Downholder and pocket bag clamp The fullness in the pocket opening area caused by darts is smoothened and safely held by means of the device (order number 0745 597514). It consists of the following components: –...
  • Page 145: Waistband Clamp

    16.2 Waistband clamp The waistband clamp 1 is available under order number 0745 597524. Assembly on sewing unit 745-34 (working method A) The completely mounted waistband clamp 1 and the needle rib 2 are fixed to the rear fastening screw threads 3 of vacuum plate 5 (towards the sewing machine).
  • Page 146: Throw-Over Stacker

    16.3 Throw-over stacker The basic adjustments of the throw-over stacker mentioned hereafter have been made by the manufacturer. They have to be corrected in exceptional cases only. Caution: Danger of injury ! Before carrying out any adjustment work switch off the main switch and separate the throw-over stacker from the compressed air supply.
  • Page 148: Adjusting The Height

    16.3.5 Adjusting the height Standard The clamping pipe 3 should move below the table top of the sewing unit in a small distance. Correction – Loosen clamping screw 11. – Raise and press down the stacker respectively. – Tighten clamping screw 11. 16.3.6 Stacker earthing cable –...
  • Page 149: Ejector Roller

    16.4 Ejector roller The stacker attachment (order number 0745 597594) is used in combination with the throw-over stacker. This is required for workpieces positioned in transverse direction or which are too short so that the throw-over stacker does not seize them. The transport rollers 5 and 7 convey the narrow workpiece to the opening of the throw-over stacker.
  • Page 150: Adjusting The Tape Feed And The Automatic Cutting Device For Reinforcement Strips

    16.5 Adjusting the tape feed and the automatic cutting device for reinforcement strips Caution: Danger of injury ! Switch off the main switch. Adjust the feeding and cutting device only with the main switch switched off. Adjusting the tape guide –...
  • Page 151: Set Of Parts "Pocket Bag On Flap

    16.6 Set of parts “Pocket bag on flap” 16.6.1 Aligning the flap clamps Align the flap clamps as per Service Instructions, chapter 13.5. 16.6.2 Adjusting the guide plates at the folder and the pick-up folder 1,5 mm Check the position of the outer guide plate 3 at the folder and adjust the guide plate height, the spring pressure and the laterial position as 0,3-0,5 mm to the needle according to the Service Instructions, chapter 12.4.
  • Page 152: Adjustments At The Feeding Clamp

    16.6.3 Adjustments at the feeding clamp – Align the additional claw 4 so that the pocket bag is sufficiently clamped in the front section. – Adjust the direction and intensity of the blowing air in such a way that the pocket bag safely runs into the folder. For this purpose loosen the core pin 3 in the holder of the blowing pipe and turn the blowing pipe 5 correspondingly.
  • Page 153: Fine Adjustment Of The Light Barrier Position

    16.6.4 Fine adjustment of the light barrier position – Swing in the folding station with folder. – The infrared luminous spot 2 of the light barrier must strike the sliding sheet through the cutout in folder 1 directly beside the edge of the sole.
  • Page 154: Program "Aligning The Light Barrier

    16.6.5 Program “Aligning the light barrier” Align the light barrier as per Programming Instructions, chapter 6.3.4 16.6.6 Setting the parameter “Pocket bag/Blowing of pipings” In the pocket parameters the parameter “Pocket bag/ Blowing of pipings” has to be set to mode 5 “Blowing the pocket bag on flap”. See Programming Instructions, chapter 5.4, for the selection of parameter “Pocket bag/Blowing of pipings”.
  • Page 155: Pressure Monitor

    17. Pressure monitor Standard checking The operating pressure of the sewing unit amounts to 6 bar. It can be checked via the manometer 1. At the moment of the maximum air consumption the pressure monitor 3 may indicate a slight pressure. Therefore the switching threshold of the pressure monitor is defined at 4.7 ±0.2 bar.
  • Page 156: Maintenance

    Maintenance Caution: Danger of injury ! Switch off the main switch. The maintenance of the sewing unit must only be carried out when the machine is switched off. The daily or weekly maintenance work (cleaning and oiling) to be done by the operators of the sewing unit is described in Part 1: Operating Instructions.

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