DeWalt DWS713 Original Instructions Manual page 12

English
Cutting Trim Molding and Other Frames (Fig. P)
Sketch B in Figure P shows a joint made by setting the mitre arm at 45° to mitre the two
boards to form a 90° corner. To make this type of joint, set the bevel adjustment to zero and
the mitre arm to 45°. Once again, position the wood with the broad flat side on the table and
the narrow edge against the fence.
The two sketches in Figure P are for four-sided objects only.
As the number of sides changes, so do the mitre and bevel angles. The chart below gives the
proper angles for a variety of shapes. The chart assumes that all sides are of equal length. For a
shape that is not shown in the chart, use the following formula. 180° divided by the number of
sides equals the mitre or bevel angle.
EXAMPLES
No. Sides
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
Cutting Compound Mitres (Fig. Q, R)
A compound mitre is a cut made using a mitre angle and a bevel angle at the same time.
This is the type of cut used to make frames or boxes with slanting sides like the one shown in
Figure Q.
nOTE: If the cutting angle varies from cut to cut, check that the bevel clamp knob and the
mitre lock knob are securely tightened. These knobs must be tightened after making any
changes in bevel or mitre.
The chart will assist you in selecting the proper bevel and mitre settings for common
compound mitre cuts. To use the chart, select the desired angle "A" (Figure R) of your
project and locate that angle on the appropriate arc in the chart. From that point follow the
chart straight down to find the correct bevel angle and straight across to find the correct
mitre angle.
Set your saw to the prescribed angles and make a few trial cuts. Practice fitting the cut pieces
together until you develop a feel for this procedure and feel comfortable with it.
EXAMPlE: To make a four-sided box with 26° exterior angles (Angle A, Figure R), use the
upper right arc. Find 26° on the arc scale. Follow the horizontal intersecting line to either side
to get mitre angle setting on saw (42°). Likewise, follow the vertical intersecting line to the
top or bottom to get the bevel angle setting on the saw (18°). Always try cuts on a few scrap
pieces of wood to verify settings on saw.
6 SIDED BOX
8 SIDED BOX
SET THIS BEVEL ANGLE ON SAW
Mitre Scale (Fig. A)
The mitre scale 7 is used when calculating angles. To calculate the proper mitre angle, divide
180° by the number of sides of the box or frame. Refer to Examples.
When Mitreing to the Right
To increase the mitre angle when mitreing to the right, move the arm to align the appropriate
vernier mark with the closest mark on the mitre scale to the right. To decrease the mitre angle
when mitreing to the right, move the arm to align the appropriate vernier mark with the
closest mark on the mitre scale to the left.
When Mitreing to the Left
To increase the mitre angle when mitreing to the left, move the arm to align the appropriate
vernier mark with the closest mark on the mitre scale to the left. To decrease the mitre angle
when mitreing to the left, move the arm to align the appropriate vernier mark with the closest
mark on the mitre scale to the right.
Cutting Base Molding
ALWAYS MAKE A DRY RUN WITHOUT POWER BEFORE MAKING ANY CUTS.
10
Angle Mitre or Bevel
45°
36°
30°
25.7°
22.5°
20°
18°
SQUARE BOX
Straight 90° Cuts (Fig. S)
Position the wood against the fence as shown in Figure S. Turn on the saw, allow the blade to
reach full speed and lower the arm smoothly through the cut.
Cutting Base Molding up to 89 mm High Vertically Against The Fence
(Fig. L, S)
Position molding as shown in Figure S.
All cuts are made with the back of the molding against the fence and bottom of the molding
against the base.
inside corner
1. Mitre left 45°
Left side
2. Save left side of cut
1. Mitre right 45°
Right side
2. Save right side of cut
Material up to 89 mm can be cut as described above. For wider boards [up to 108 mm] several
minor concessions must be made.
When cutting a board between 89 mm and 108 mm in width the roller on the tip of the
guard could hang up on the workpiece. If this occurs, simply place your right thumb on the
upper side of the guard and roll the guard up just enough to clear the workpiece, as shown in
Figure L. Once you have cleared the workpiece, you can release the guard and it will continue
to open as the cut progresses.
When mitreing to the right side of a base molding wider than 89 mm standing vertically
against the fence as in Figure U, the saw can only cut through the board up to 1 inch from the
end of the board. Trying to cut more than an inch will cause the saw's gear case to interfere
with the workpiece. If you want to cut base molding between 89 mm and 108 mm wide
vertically follow the directions below.
Cutting 89 mm–108 mm Base Molding Vertically Against the Fence
(Fig. S)
• Position molding as shown in Figure S.
• All cuts made with the back of the molding against the fence.
inside corner
1. Position molding with bottom of
molding against the base of the saw
Left side*
2. Mitre left 45°
3. Save left side of cut
1. Position molding with bottom of the
molding resting on the base of the saw
Right side
2. Mitre right 45°
3. Save right side of cut
* NOTE: If the cut must be made somewhere other than 1" from the end of the molding: cut off
the molding at 90° approx. 25.4 mm longer than your final length. Then, make the mitre cut as
described above.
Another method of making the cut is to make a zero degree mitre, 45° bevel cut. Your saw can
cut a bevel 158 mm wide.
Cutting Base Molding Laying Flat and Using the Bevel Feature
• All cuts made with the saw set at 45° bevel and 0 mitre.
• All cuts made with back of molding laying flat on the saw.
• Move the left side fence out of the path of the blade before attempting any of the
following cuts.
inside corner
1. Position molding with top of molding
against the fence
Left side
2. Save left side of cut
1. Position molding with bottom of the
molding against the fence
Right side
2. Save right side of cut
Cutting Crown Molding
Your mitre saw is better suited to the task of cutting crown molding than any tool made. In
order to fit properly, crown molding must be compound mitreed with extreme accuracy.
The two flat surfaces on a given piece of crown molding are at angles that, when added
together, equal exactly 90°. Most, but not all, crown molding has a top rear angle (the section
that fits flat against the ceiling) of 52° and a bottom rear angle (the part that fits flat against the
wall) of 38°.
Your mitre saw has special pre-set mitre detent points at 31.62° left and right for cutting crown
molding at the proper angle. There is also a mark on the Bevel scale at 33.85°.
The Bevel Setting/Type of Cut chart gives the proper settings for cutting crown molding. (The
numbers for the mitre and bevel settings are very precise and are not easy to accurately set
on your saw.) Since most rooms do not have angles of precisely 90°, you will have to fine tune
your settings anyway.
PRETEsTing WiTh sCRAP MATERiAl is EX TREME lY iMPORTAnT!
Outside corner
1. Mitre right 45°
2. Save left side of cut
1. Mitre left 45°
2. Save right side of cut
Outside corner
1. Position molding with bottom of
molding against the base of the saw
2. Mitre right 45°
3. Save left side of cut
1. Position molding with bottom of the
molding against the base of the saw
2. Mitre left 45°
3. Save right side of cut
Outside corner
1. Position molding with bottom of the
molding against the fence
2. Save left side of cut
1. Position molding with top of molding
against the fence
2. Save right side of cut