Nakayama EC2345 Translation Of The Original Instructions page 26

Cut a notch (A) at right angles to the fall direction
to a depth of 1/3 of the tree diameter as shown
in Fig. 15. First make the lower horizontal felling
notch (A). This prevents the saw chain or the
guide rail from becoming trapped when the
second felling notch is made.
Making the felling cut (Fig. 15b)
The felling cut should be positioned at least
50 mm above the horizontal felling notch. Make
the felling cut (B) parallel to the horizontal felling
notch. The felling cut should be cut to a depth
which leaves a thin strip (felling hinge strip) (D)
which can act as a hinge. This strip prevents
the tree from rotating and falling in the wrong
direction. Do not cut through the strip. When
the felling cut gets close to the strip the tree
should start to fall. If it becomes clear that the
tree may well fall in a different direction to the
desired fall direction (C) or it starts to lean back
and traps the saw chain, interrupt the felling
cut and insert wedges made of wood, plastic or
aluminum to open out the cut and control the
lean of the tree until it leans in the required
direction. When the tree starts to fall, remove
the chainsaw from the cut, switch it off, place
it on the ground and exit the danger zone via
the planned escape route. Watch out for falling
branches and take care not to trip.
Removing branches
Here we are talking about removing branches
from the felled tree. When removing branches,
leave any downward facing branches which are
supporting the tree until the trunk of the tree has
been cut up.
Smaller branches should be removed as shown in
Fig. 16 (A= cutting direction when removing
branches, B= keep away from the ground!
Supporting branches should be left until the
trunk is cut up) in a single cut from the bottom to
the top. Any branches which are under tension
should be cut from the bottom to the top to
prevent the saw from becoming trapped.
Cutting the tree trunk into lengths
Here we are looking at the process of cutting the
felled tree into sections. Make sure you have a
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sure footing and distribute your body weight
evenly onto both feet. If possible the trunk should
be underlaid and supported with branches,
beams or wedges. For easy cutting follow the
simple instructions below. If the full length of the
tree trunk is evenly supported as shown in Fig. 17
then proceed by cutting from the top down. Take
care not to cut into the ground in the process.
If the weight of the tree trunk is resting on one
end as shown in Fig. 18, first cut through 1/3 of
the trunk diameter from the underside (A) in
order to prevent it from splintering. Make the
second cut from the top (2/3 of the diameter) to
the height of the first cut (B) (this prevents the
chainsaw from being trapped).
If the weight of the tree trunk is resting on both
ends as shown in Fig. 19, first cut through 1/3
of the trunk diameter from the top (A) in order
to prevent it from splintering. Make the second
cut from underneath (2/3 of the diameter) to
the height of the first cut (B) (this prevents the
chainsaw from being trapped).
When working with the saw on a slope, always
position yourself at a higher point on the slope
above the tree as shown in Fig. 13. In order to
retain full control at the moment when the cut
goes through, reduce pressure towards the end
of the cut without releasing your firm grip on the
handles of the chainsaw. Take care to ensure that
the chainsaw does not touch the ground. After
completing the cut, wait for the chain saw to
come to a standstill before removing the
chainsaw. Always switch off the motor of the
chainsaw before moving from tree to tree.
6.3 Kickback
The term "kickback" describes what happens
when the running chainsaw suddenly kicks
upward and backward. Usually, this is caused by
contact between the tip of the cutter rail and the
workpiece or the saw chain becoming trapped.
In the event of kickback, large forces occur
suddenly and violently. As a result, the chainsaw
usually reacts uncontrollably. This can often result