Hague Quality Water Maximizer 400 Installation And Service Manual page 15

O O p p t t i i o o n n a a l l P P l l u u m m b b i i n n g g P P r r o o c c e e d d u u r r e e s s
This section provides information on plumbing with copper fittings and with plastic pipe.
H H a a r r d d P P l l u u m m b b i i n n g g t t h h e e B B y y p p a a s s s s W W i i t t h h C C o o p p p p e e r r F F i i t t t t i i n n g g s s
Do not use Qest fittings for hard plumbing the bypass connection with copper fittings. Instead, when preparing
male threaded fittings of the bypass valve, use the following guidelines to avoid damage to the plastic pipe threads.
A. Wrap the threads three times with 1/2-inch wide Teflon tape. Place each consecutive wrap on top of the
previous wrap.
B. Use Teflon paste on the first two male threads only to prevent tearing of the tape. The paste lubricates the tape
and fills the small void areas that might exist between the threads. When the joint is complete, there will be a
small bead of sealant at the fitting interface, which indicates a properly joined connection.
C. Use a union with a threaded connection to facilitate repair of potential leaks in soldered joints.
D. Prepare the copper tail assemblies in advance to enable them to cool prior to final assembly. Advance
preparation and cooling will prevent heat damage to the plastic pipe threads of the adapter.
E. Ensure that the copper tube is at least 4 inches (10 cm) long.
F. Turn the fitting counter-clockwise until you feel the threads engage and then tighten to prevent cross threading.
Do NOT over tighten the fittings.
Caution: Do NOT allow heat from the torch to transfer to the plastic valve component, which could be
damaged.
P P l l a a s s t t i i c c ( ( P P V V C C / / C C P P V V C C ) ) P P i i p p e e J J o o i i n n i i n n g g P P r r o o c c e e d d u u r r e e s s
To ensure reliable joint integrity when using solvent cement for PVC/CPVC plumbing, follow these
recommendations:
A. Cutting—The pipe must be cut square to allow for the proper interfacing of the pipe end and the fitting socket
bottom. Use a wheel cutter, miter saw, or a ratchet shear for best results.
B. Deburring and Beveling—Use a knife, plastic pipe deburring tool, or a file to remove burrs from the end of the
pipe. Be sure to remove all burrs from the inside as well as the outside of the pipe. All pipe ends should be
beveled to permit easier insertion of the pipe into the fitting. Failure to bevel the pipe end may cause a "wiping"
effect in the fitting where the cement is forced to the end of the fitting socket. This creates a weak joint.
C. Test Dry Fit of the Joint—Tapered fitting sockets are designed so that an interference fit should occur when
the pipe is inserted about one-third to two-thirds of the way into the socket. Occasionally, when pipe and fitting
dimensions are at the tolerance extremes, it will be possible to fully insert dry pipe to the bottom of the fitting
socket. When this happens, a sufficient quantity of cement must be applied to the joint to fill the gap between the
pipe and fitting.
D. Inspection, Cleaning, and Priming—Inspect the inside of the pipe and fitting sockets and remove dirt, grease,
or moisture with a clean dry cloth. If wiping fails to clean the surfaces, use a chemical cleaner. Check for
possible damage such as splits or cracks and replace if necessary. Use purple primer to penetrate and soften
the bonding surfaces of the PVC or CPVC pipe and fittings. Proceed without hesitation to the cementing
procedure while the primed surfaces are still wet.
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