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INSTALLING THE MOUNT ON CONCRETE OR CONCRETE MASONRY WALLS
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
DANGER
• If the satellite dish contacts electric power lines, you
will be killed or seriously injured.
• Before starting the installation procedure, make sure
there are no power lines nearby.
CAUTION
• Attach the satellite dish only to concrete masonry (cin-
der blocks) or concrete walls at least 8 inches thick.
• Do not attach the satellite dish to stucco or to masonry
veneered surfaces.
• Do not install anchors within 12 inches from any dis-
continuous surface, such as a window, door, or edge of
a wall.
• Anchors can not be installed in mortar joints or within 2
inches of mortar joints.
• Install the satellite dish only as described in this man-
ual.
Do not drill holes within 12 inches of any discontinuous sur-
face such as a window, door, or edge of a wall. Note: for an
installation to be successful, the mast must be plumb. Re-plumb the
mast whenever instructed to do so, and re-plumb it whenever you feel
it is necessary.
1. Orient the base plate as in Figure 21.
2. Place the base plate so that no anchor will be placed closer
than 12 inches from any discontinuous surface, such as a
window, door, or edge of a wall. If you are installing on a
cinder block surface, place it so the outside holes are posi-
tioned over the block surfaces. Do not drill into the mortar
between the blocks or closer than 2 inches to any mortar
joints. If you plan to install the brace kit, consider placement
of the strut mounting plates at this time also.
3. Have a helper hold the mast and base plate in place. Using a
carpenter's level, plumb the mast in at least two different
locations on the side of the mast (see Figure 21). These two
measurements should be at right angles to each other. If the
mast is plumb, go to step 5. Otherwise, use a 1/2-inch socket
wrench to loosen the adjustment nuts.
4. Swing the mast until it is plumb with the level. If you are
still unable to plumb the mast, find another site to install the
satellite dish.
Note: It is essential that the mast be plumb. If you cannot make the
mast plumb at this point, find another installation site.
Note: If you loosen the adjustment nuts at any point during installa-
tion so that you can move or plumb the mast, be sure to tighten them
snugly after re-plumbing the mast.
5. Mark the location of the top center, bottom center, and four
corner holes of the base plate onto the concrete surface
(Figure 22). Remove the mount from the wall.
Corner holes
Top center hole
Cinder block
or concrete
Mortar
Bottom center hole
Corner holes
Figure 21
Carpenter's level
Plumb vial
Bubble
Bubble must
be centered
between
marks
Mast
Pivot bolt
Adjustment nut
(2 places)
Figure 22
6. Use a 3/8-inch masonry drill bill and drill 3/8-inch x
3-inch holes where you made the pencil marks. Clean out
the holes with a blow out bulb.
7. With the bolts flush to the top of the nuts, tap the sleeve
anchors to drive them into the holes.
8. Using a 9/16-inch wrench, remove the bolts from the
anchors.
9. Place the mount back on the wall, carefully centering the
base plate holes over the holes you just drilled.
10. Plumb the mast.
11. Using a torque wrench, reinstall the anchors, tightening
them to 10 ft. lbs.
12. Verify the mast is still plumb and tighten the two adjustment
nuts to 18 ft.-lbs.
2 in.
min.
Mast
(top view)
Level
G-218
11/16/
21
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