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RUBBER TORSION SUSPENSION
The RUBBER TORSION suspension system is a torsion
arm type suspension, which is completely self-contained
within the axle tube. It attaches directly to the trailer frame
using brackets, which are an integral part of the axle
assembly.
The RUBBER TORSION axle provides improved
suspension characteristics relative to leaf spring axles
through the unique arrangement of a steel torsion bar
surrounded by four natural rubber cords incased in the
main structural member of the axle beam.
The wheel/ hub spindle is attached to a lever, called the
torsion arm, which is fastened to the rubber-encased bar.
As the load applied, the bar rotates causing a rolling/
compressive resistance in the rubber cords. This action
provides the same functions as conventional sprung axles
with
operating
advantages
including
suspension.
INSPECTION
All the components of your suspension system should be
visually inspected at least every 6,000 miles for signs of
excess ware, elongation of bolt holes, and loosening of
fasteners.
Whenever loose or replaced, the fasteners in your
suspension system should be torqued as in the chart below
BRAKE DRUM INSPECTION
There are two areas of the brake drum that are subject to
wear and require periodic inspection.
These two areas are the drum surface where the brake
shoes make contact during stopping and the armature
surface where the magnets contacts (only on electric
brakes.)
The drum surface should be inspected for excessive wear
or heavy scoring. If worn more than .020" oversized, or
the drum has worn out of round more than .015", then the
drum surface should be turned.
If scoring or other wear is greater than .090" on the
diameter, the drum must be replaced. When turning the
drum surface, the maximum re-bore diameter for a 12 1/4"
brake drum is 12.340". The machined inner surface of the
brake drum that contacts the Brake magnet is called the
armature surface.
If the armature surface is scored or worn unevenly, it
should be refaced to a 120 micro inch finish by removing
not more than .030" of material.
To insure proper contact between the magnet armature
face and the drum surface should be refaced whenever the
magnets are replaced.
It's important to have wheel-bearing bores
free of metallic chips and contamination.
Make sure all cavities are free of
contamination
bearing and seals
BEARING INSPECTION
independent
Wash all grease and oil from the bearing cone using a
suitable solvent. Dry the bearing with clean, lint free cloth
and inspect the rollers completely.
If any pitting, spalling, or corrosion is present, then
replace the bearing. The bearing cup inside the hub must
be inspected also.
ALWAYS REPLACE THE BEARINGS AND CUP IN
SETS.
1. When replacing the bearing cup proceed as follows:
2.
Place the hub on a flat work surface with the cup to
be replaced on the bottom side.
3.
Using a brass drift punch, carefully tap around the
small diameter end of the cup to drive it out.
4.
After cleaning the hub bore area, replace the cup by
tapping in with the brass drift punch. Be sure the cup
is seated all the way up against the retaining shoulder
in the hub.
Replace only with bearing as specified in the
accompanying Bearing Replacement Chart.
BEARING LUBRICATION
Along with bearing adjustment, proper lubrication is
essential to the current function and reliability of your
trailer axle. Bearing should be lubricated every 12 months
or 12,000 miles. Repack bearings as follows:
1. Place a quantity of grease into the palm of your hand.
2.
3.
4.
5.
before
reinstalling
the
BEARING LUBRICATION-OIL
If your axles are equipped with oil lubricated hubs, then
your lubrication procedure is to periodically fill the hub
with a high quality hypoid gear oil to the level indicated on
the clear plastic oil cap.
The oil can be filled through the rubber plug hole in the
cap. Recommended Oil—SAE 90 Hypoid Gear (Hypoid
Rear Axle Oil)
SEAL INSPECTION AND REPLACEMENT
Whenever the hub is removed, it's recommended to
replace the seals to assure that the seal properly seals the
bearing cavity. To replace the seal:
1. Pry the seal out of the hub with a screwdriver. Never
2.
3.
- 71 -
Press a section of the widest end of the bearing into
the outer edge of the grease pile closet to the thumb
forcing grease into the interior of the bearing.
Repeat this while rotating the bearing from roller to
roller.
Continue this process until you have the entire bear-
ing completely filled with grease.
Before installing, apply a light coat of grease on the
bearing cup.
drive the seal out with the inner bearing as you may
cause damage to the bearing.
Apply Permatex sealant to the outside of the new
seal.
Tap the new seal into place using a clean wood block.
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