Incoming Power; Electrical Inspection - Market Forge Industries ST-24 Owner's Manual

Pressureless
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GENERAL TROUBLE-SHOOTING GUIDE TABLE CONTINUED
PROBLEM
4.
Steam continues to
flow into compartment
and/or buzzer fails to
sound at end of timer
setting.
5.
Steam flows
continuously from
boiler (or direct
connected steam
control) drain line with
cooker in operation.
The electrical trouble-shooting procedures that follow require access to components and terminals of
the electrical control panel shown in Figure 10, on page 32. Electrical controls are reached by removing
screws that fasten the control panel to the frame. The panel may be pulled forward for testing while
interconnected to the cooker circuits or disconnected at the pin connection for complete removal and
repair.

Incoming Power

Before trouble-shooting any of the electrical parts or assemblies, verify that power is being supplied to
the cooker. Incoming power is connected at the boiler (or direct-connected steam) control box located in
the base cabinet. With power connected to the cooker, an AC voltmeter is used to measure 120 volts
across L1 and L2. If 120 volts is present, and the cooker will not operate, the fault lies within the
electrical circuits of the cooker.

Electrical Inspection

The first step in any electrical trouble-shooting procedure is a thorough physical inspection of all wiring
connections. To access electrical components, remove the control panel as explained in Exterior Panel
Removal on page 27.
Before removing control panel or checking connections and wiring, be sure that the circuit breaker for
incoming power is OFF. When power is supplied, all exposed terminals of the control panel carry 120
volts.
Check all wiring connections by hand to assure that both ends of all connection points are tightly
secured. Use a screwdriver to tighten connection points. If necessary, visually inspect all quick-
disconnect terminals for evidence of corrosion. Terminals in this condition should be separated, cleaned
with emery cloth until shiny, and tightly reconnected.
PROBABLE CAUSE
a.
Timer contacts faulty.
b.
Buzzer faulty.
c.
Faulty wiring.
a.
Cold water not
connected.
b.
Faulty thermostat.
c.
Faulty cold water
solenoid.
d.
Faulty wiring.
WARNING:
18
REMEDY
a.
Replace timer. See 60-minute timer on
page 19.
b.
Replace buzzer. See Buzzer on page
21.
c.
Inspect condition of wire and tightness
of all connections. Correct as needed.
a.
Turn on external shut-off valve.
b.
Replace thermostat. See Cooking
Compartment Thermostatic Switch on
page 20.
c.
Replace valve.
d.
Inspect condition of wire and tightness
of all connections. Correct as needed.

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